ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS

Transcription

1 EI^CTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-1 GROUP 8 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS CONTENTS BATTERY Page Battery Charging. 9 Data and Specifications. 3 Gravity Test. 8 High Rate Discharge Text... 9 Service Diagnosis 78 Visual Inspection... 8 Voltage Test 9 STARTING MOTOR (DIRECT DRIVE) Circuit Tests Brushes. 16 Data and Specifications 44 Drive Gear Clearance Drive Unit Field Coils. 16 Service Diagnosis ' 79 Starting Motor Removal and Installation. 12 STARTING MOTOR REDUCTION GEAR TYPE) Brushes and Springs 23 Data and Specifications Field Coils «. 23 Ground Circuit Test 17 Resistance and Current Draw 17 Service Diagnosis 79 Starter Clutch Unit Starting Motor Removal and Installation. 19 ALTERNATOR Alternator Removal and Installation.. 31 Alternator Testing Data and Specifications Service Diagnosis 81 Testing the Rectifiers Voltage Regulator 27

2 8-2 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS CONTENTS CONT'D. IGNITION SYSTEM Breaker and Spring Tension 46 Distributor Advance 46 Distributor Removal and Installation.. 41 Dwell Variation Idle RPM Test. 40 Ignition Coil Ignition Timing Resistance Test, 40 Secondary Circuit Inspection Service Diagnosis 83 Spark Plugs...' 47 LIGHTING SYSTEM Calibration 49 Dual Headlamps Headlamp Adjusting Headlamp Aiming Headlamp Replacement. 51 Service Diagnosis 84 Testing Headlamp Aim HORNS Adjusting Horn "A" and "B". 51 Service Diagnosis 85 Testing. 51 Page ELECTRIC LOCHNG DOOHS Solenoid Removal and Installation ELECTHIC WINDOW LIFTS Removal and Installation Service Diagnosis 85 POWER SEATS Drive Unit and Solenoid Assembly 56 Flexible Cables 54 Front Seat and Adjuster Removal and Installation Motor Assembly Operation Service Diagnosis - 86 Slave Unit. 57

3 CONTENTS CONT'D. WINDSHIELD WIPERS ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-3 Page Service Diagnosis 89 Windshield Wipers Removal and Installation 59 Wiper Blade Adjustment Wiper Motor Disassembly 59 Wiper Switch 60 ELECTROLUMINESCENT LIGHTING. INSTRUMENTS, GAUGES AND DIRECTIONAL INDICATORS Directional Switch 67 Headlamp Switch Ignition Switch Instrument Cluster and Speedometer Head Removal and Installation 62 Operation. 62 Service Diagnosis 90 Windshield Wiper and Washer Switch 66 THERMAL TYPE GAUGES Engine Temperature Sending Unit 70 Fuel Level Indicating System Gas Tank Unit Operation. 69 Oil Pressure Sending Unit. 70 Service Diagnosis 91 Temperature Indicating System WIRING DIAGRAMS Six Way Seat Adjusting 71 Body and Dome Lamp (Except Town and Country) (Chrysler; 71 Body and Dome Lamp (Town and Country) (Chrysler) Body and Dome Lamp (Imperial) 72 Electric Window Lift (Chrysler) 73 Electric Window Lift (Imperial) 74 Instrument Panel (Chrysler; 75 Instrument Panel (Imperial) Engine Compartment (Chrysler and Imperial) DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS BATTERY Standard Voltage. 12 Volts. Capacity. 70 Amp. Hour Ground Terminal Negative Number of Plates Model..Auto-Lite 12HB-70B Willard MB-27-70

4 84 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS CONT'D. STARTING MOTOR DIRECT DRIVE Models SC-L SC-2 with Manual Transmission Part Number Make. Chrysler Voltage No. of Fields. 4 No. of Poles.. 4 Brushes 4 Spring Tension to 48 ounces Drive Solenoid Shift Overrunning Clutch End Play.005" Minimum Free-Running Test Voltage. 11 Amperage Draw 78 Amps. Maximum Minimum Speed rpm 3800 rpm Stall Torque Test Torque Foot-Pounds Voltage. 4 Amperage Draw \ 350 Pinion to Housing Clearance. y% plus or minus \tf Between Pinion Stop and End of Pinion Solenoid Switch Pull-in Coil volts Hold-in Coil volts STARTING MOTOR (REDUCTION GEAR TYPE) MODELS SC-L SC-2, SY-1 (With Automatic Transmfesion) Chrysler Part No Make Chrysler Built Voltage 12 No. of Fields. 4 No. of Poles... 4 Brushes. 4 Spring Tension 32 to 48 ounces Drive... Overrunning Clutch End Play " Free-Running Test Voltage 11 Amperage Draw 85 Minimum Speed rpm 1950

5 ^ ; t ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-5 DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS CONT'D. STARTING MOTOR (REDUCTION GEAR TYPE) Stall Torque Test Torque Foot-Pounds Voltage. 4 Amperage Draw Solenoid Switch Pull-in Coil volte Hold-in Coil Amps. 6.0 volts DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS ALTERNATOR Special Equipment Special Equipment Standard Equipment Heavy Duty Air Conditioning Rated Output 35 Amperes 40 Amperes 40 Amperes Voltage 12 Volts 12 Volts 12 Volts Alternator Pulley Diameter in in in. Single Groove Single Groove Twin Groove Brushes Condenser Capacity microfarad.158 microfarad.158 microfarad (min.) (min.) (min.) Field Coil Draw. 2.3 amperes minimum to 2.7 amperes maximum at 12 volts, rotating alternator by hand; or 3.00 amperes minimum to 3.50 amperes maximum at 15 volts at 70 degrees Fahrenheit, alternator operating at 750 rpm. Current Output (Minimum at 15 volts; 1250 Engine rpm Cold) (Plus or minus 3 amperes allowed) 35 Amperes 39 Amperes 39 Amperes ALTERNATOR VOLTAGE REGULATOR Alternator Voltage Regulator Number Volts 12 Ground Polarity.... Negative Point Gap.015 inch plus or minus.001 inch Air Gap.048 to.052 inch Measure gap with gauge back of stop. Contacts close with.052 inch gauge installed. Contacts open with.048 inch gauge installed. Temperature in Degrees Minimum Setting 13.7 to 13.6 to 13.5 to 13.4 to Maximum Setting

6 DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS CONT'D* IGNITION SYSTEM Model Number (Chrysler Built) (without Tachometer) (Chrysler Built) (with Tachometer) Autolite Built and (both with Double Breaker) Engine Model 361, 383 cubic inch 413 cubic inch 413 cubic inch Vehicle Model SC-l, SC-2 (with 2 bbl. Carb.) SC-2-300H (with 4 bbl Carb.) SC-3, SY-1 (with 4 bbl. Carb.) Advance Automatic (Distributor Degrees at Distributor rpm) to to to to to to to to to to 2300 Advance-Vacuum (Distributor Degrees at inches of Mercury) " to 8" 7.2 to 8.9" 0 6" to 9" 6 to 9 12" 4.5 to " 4.5 to 12" 11.5 to " 7.5 to " 8.3 to 11 15" Breaker Point Gap.014" to.019".014" to.019".014" to.019" Dwell Angle 27 to to 32 (one set Points) 27 to to 40 (both sets Points) Breaker Arm Spring Tension to 21.5 oz. 17 to 21.5 oz. 17 to 21.5 oz. Timing 10 BTC 10 ETC 10 BTC Condenser Capacity.25 to.285 mfd..25 to.285 mfd..25 to.285 mfd. Shaft Side Play.000" to.003"*.000" to.003"*.000" to.003"* Shaft End Play (After Assembly) " to.010".003" to.010".003" to.010" Rotation Counter-Clockwise Counter-Cloekwise Counter-Clockwise Spark Plugs J-12Y Champion A-32 Auto-Lite J-12Y Champion Size 14 MM % Reach 14 MM % Reach 14 MM % Reach Gap inch.035 inch.035 inch Firing Order Coil Chrysler Auto-Lite Chrysler Essex Primary Resistance F ohms ohms Secondary Resistance F ohms ohms Ballast Resistor Resistance F ohms ohms ohms Current Draw (Coil and Ballast Resistor in Circuit) Engine Stopped 3.0 Amperes 3.0 Amperes 3.0 Amperes Engine Idling 1.9 Amperes 1.9 Amperes 1.9 Amperes *When distributor is new or after rebuilding (new bushings and/or shaft installed). Service wear tolerance should not exceed.006".

7 LAMP CHART ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-7 Imperial Chrysler Location Lamp No* Lamp No. Dual Headlamps (Sealed-Beam) High and Low Beam Outer Lamp High Beam Inner Lamp Tail Stop and Turn Signal Lamps Park and Turn Signal Map Lamp Dome Lamp Back-up Lamps Luggage Compartment Lamp Under-Hood Lamp ' Rear License Plate Lamp Headlamp High Beam Indicator Lamp Transmission Push Button Controls Lamp El * 1816 Parking Brake Warning Lamp Turn Signal Indicator Lamps Speedometer Lamp EL * EL * Heater Controls. Lamp. EL * EL * Ignition Switch Lamp None 1816 Auto-Pilot Lamp. EL * 1816 Glove Compartment Lamp Ash Receiver Lamp Clock. EL * EL * Radio. EL * EL * ^Electroluminescent Lighting FUSES Auto-Pilot ampere Radio... ampere C :ock... 2 ampere Cigar Lighter, 14 ampere Instrument Panel Lamps ampere Dome and Stop Lamp ampere Park and Tail Lamps.\ 9 ampere Back-up Lamps 6 ampere Glove and Trunk Compartments ampere Rear Window Defroster ampere Air Conditioning or Heater 20 ampere CIRCUIT BREAKERS Circuit Rated Capacity Location 22 ampere Integral with the lighting switch... 5 ampere Back of wiper switch 20 ampere Behind left front Mck panel (Special 4 Door) 30 ampere Six- Way Seat. 40 ampere Behind left front Hck panel

8 8-8 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS GROUP 8 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS BATTE1Y VISUAL INSPECTION (1) Protect the fender paint finish with fender covers. (2) Inspect the battery carrier for damage caused by loss of acid from the battery. (S) Remove the battery hold-down clamp and clean the top of the battery with clean warm water and baking soda. Scrub areas with a stiff bristle brush being careful not to scatter corrosion residue with the bristles. Finally wipe off with a cloth moistened with ammonia or baking soda in water. CAUTION Keep cleaning solution out of battery cells to eliminate weakening the electrolyte. (4) Inspect the cables. Replace damaged or frayed cables. (5) Inspect the terminal posts to see that they are not deformed nor broken. Clean the tapered battery terminals and the inside surfaces of the clamp terminals with the terminal cleaning tool, as shown in Figures 1 and 2. (6) Examine the battery for cracks in the case, and raised cells. Inspect sealing compound for leaks. Reseal as necessary. (7) Tighten the battery hold-down screw nuts to 3 foot-pounds torque. (8) Observe the polarity of the terminals of battery to be sure the battery is not reversed and connect the cable clamps to the battery posts and tighten securely. Coat all connections with light mineral grease or petrolatum. (9) If the electrolyte level is low, fill to recommended level with mineral-free water. SPECIFIC GRAVITY TEST A hydrometer is used to measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte in the battery cells. This gives an indication of how much unused sulphuric acid remains in the solution. Hydrometer loats are calibrated to indicate correctly only at one fixed temperature. The specific gravity of the battery electrolyte varies not only with the quantity of acid in solution but also with temperature. Draw electrolyte in and out of the hydrometer barrel several times to bring the temperature of the hydrometer float to that of the acid in the cell and then measure the electrolyte temperature in the cell. The temperature correction amounts to.004 specific gravity points for each 10 degrees Fahrenheit change in temperature. The liquid level of the battery cell should be at normal height and the electrolyte should be thoroughly mixed with any battery water which may have just been added by charging the battery before taking any hydrometer readings. See "Adjustment Fig. 1 Cleaning the Inside of the Cable Clamp Fig. 2 Cleaning the Outside of the Battery Post

9 ELECTRICAL AND MSTRUMENTS 8-9 of Acid Gravity". A fully charged battery has a specific gravity reading of plus.015 minus.005 (all batteries for use in temperate climates). If the battery specific gravity is below 1.220, recharge the battery to a full charge, then proceed with the battery "Voltage Tests" and "Battery Capacity Tests". VOLTAGE TESTS NOTE: Freshly charged batteries may have a "surface charge" which causes high and inaccurate readings unless properly dissipated. If battery is in the vehicle, turn the headlights on for one to three minutes to remove surface charge. Then turn lights off and wait several minutes before taking another reading. To make a battery test, contact the meter prods (Tool MT-379) to the proper cell terminals (red to positive, black to negative), using caution not to connect across more than one cell. The point of prod will have to be pushed through sealing compound to make contact with buried link for each cell reading. The individual cell readings should not vary more than 0.15 volt between any two cells. A battery varying more than 0.15 volt between any two cells should be recharged and "high rate discharge tester" used to test the battery before discarding the battery as unsuitable for use. CAUTION Do not use an open flame near the battery. HIGH RATE DISCHARGE TEST OF BATTERY CAPACITY Satisfactory capacity tests can be made only when battery equals or exceeds specific gravity at 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If reading is below 1.220, the battery should be slow charged until fully charged in order to secure proper test results. (1) Turn the control knob of the battery starter tester to the OFF position. (2) Turn the voltmeter selector switch to the 4 volt position. (3) Connect the test ammeter and voltmeter positive leads to the battery negative terminal and ammeter and voltmeter negative leads to the battery positive terminal (Fig. 3). NOTE: The voltmeter clips must contact the battery posts or cable clamps and not the ammeter clips. (4) Turn the control knob clockwise until ammeter reading is 200 amperes. Fig. 3 High late Discharge Test (5) Maintain the load for 15 seconds, voltmeter should read 9.5 volts or more, which will indicate battery has good output capacity. (6) Turn the control knob to the OFF position. CHARGING THE BATTERY If the voltage in "High Rate Discharge Test" was under 9.5 volt, the battery should be test charged to determine whether the battery can be satisfactorily charged. a. Three Minute Charge Test (Fig. 4) NOTE: This test should not be used if battery temperature is below 60 degrees F. (1) Connect the positive ( + ) charger lead to the battery positive terminal and the negative ( ) lead to the battery negative terminal. (2) Trip the power switch to ON position. Turn charger timer switch past "three minutes" then back to "three minutes." (3) Adjust the charge switch to the highest possible rate not exceeding 40 amperes. (4) When the timer switch cuts off at end of 3 minutes, turn back to fast charge, (5) Use the 4 volt scale of the battery starter tester voltmeter and quickly measure the voltage across each cell while the battery is being fast charged. A faulty cell or cells will be detected by a cell voltage variation of more than.1 volt. (6) If the cell voltages are even within.1 volt, use 16 volt scale of the battery starter tester and meas-

10 8-10 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS Fig. 4 Three Minute Charge Test ure the total voltage of the battery posts while the battery is being fast charged. If the total voltage during the charge exceeds 15.5 volts, the battery is sulphated and should be cycled and slow-charged until specific gravity reaches (See "Slowing Charging"). If the specific gravity remains constant after testing the battery at one hour intervals for three hours, the battery is at its highest state of charge. (7) Make another capacity test If the capacity test does not meet specifications, replace the battery. NOTE: A slow charge is preferable to bring the battery up to a full charge. Safe slow charging rates are determined by allowing one ampere per positive plate per cell the proper slow charging rate would be 6 amperes for a 70 ampere hour battery. b. Fast Charging the Battery (Fig. S) If adequate time for a slow charge is not available, a high rate (FAST) charge is permissible and will give a sufficient charge in one hour, enabling the battery and alternator to continue to carry the electrical load. Connect the positive ( + ) charger lead to the battery positive terminal and the negative ( ) charger lead to the battery negative terminal. CAUTION The battery can be damaged beyond repair unless V the following precautions are taken: (1) The battery electrolyte temperature must NEVER exceed 125 degrees Fahrenheit. If this temperature is reached, the battery should be cooled by reducing the charging rate or remove the battery from the circuit. (2) As the batteries approach full charge the electrolyte in each cell will begin to gas or bubble. Excessive gassing must not be allowed. (3) Do not fast charge longer than one hour. The battery is fully-charged when three successive hourly hydrometer readings show no rise in specific gravity. Remember to use the temperature correction when checking specific gravity. If the battery does not show a significant change Fig. 5 Fast Charging the Battery

11 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-11 in the specific gravity after one hour of "FAST" charge, the slow charge method should be used. NOTE: The manufacturers of high rate charging equipment generally outline the precautions and some models have thermostatic temperature limiting and time limiting controls. WARNING When batteries are being charged an explosive gas mixture forms beneath the cover of each cell. Keep all sparks and open flames away from die battery. c. Slow Charging Batteries to Remove Sulphation To condition a battery that is sulphated, charge the battery for a minimum of 24 hours at a maximum charging rate of (4) amperes. As the battery approaches full charge, test the specific gravity at hourly intervals. With no rise in specific gravity for three successive readings, the battery is charged to its peak capacity. STARTING MOTOl (DIRECT DRIVE) The Chrysler Corporation built Starting Motor (Fig. type switch mounted on the starting motor. 6) is a 12-volt, four coil assembly. The starter drive The brush holders are riveted to a separate brush is an overrunning clutch type with a solenoid shift plate and are not serviced individually. Brush replace- BRUSH SPRING FRAME Fig. 6 Starting Motor (Disassembled View) (Typical) 61x18

12 842 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS ment can be made by removing the commutator bearing end head. STARTING MOTOB CIRCUIT TESTS a. Insulated Circuit Test (1) Test the battery electrolyte specific gravity. The specific gravity should be or above. If the battery specific gravity is below 1.220, recharge the battery to a full charge before proceeding with the test. (2) Turn the voltmeter selector switch to the 4 volt position. (3) Disconnect the ignition coil secondary cable. (4) Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the battery positive post and the voltmeter negative lead to the solenoid connector which connects to the starter field coils. NOTE: The voltmeter will read off the scale to the right until the starter is actuated. (5) Connect the remote control switch to the battery and the solenoid terminal of the starter relay. (6) Crank the engine with a remote starter control starter switch and observe the voltmeter reading. The voltmeter reading should not exceed.3 volt. A voltmeter reading of.3 volt or less indicates the voltage drop is normal in the cables, starter relay switch, solenoid switch and connections between the battery and the starting motor is normal. See "Starter Ground Circuit Test". If the voltmeter reading is more than.3 volt, it indicates high resistance in the starter insulated circuit. Make the following test to isolate the point of excessive voltage loss. (7) Remove the voltmeter lead from the solenoid connector and connect to the following points, repeating the test at each connection. The starter terminal of the solenoid, battery terminal of the solenoid, battery cable terminal at the solenoid, starter relay and the cable clamp at the battery. (8) A small change will occur each time a normal portion of the circuit is removed from the test. A definite change in the voltmeter reading indicates that the last part eliminated in the test is at fault. Maximum allowable voltage loss is as follows: Battery insulated cable.2 volt Solenoid switch.1 " Each connection.0 " Replace the faulty cables. Clean and tighten all connections. b. Starter Ground Circuit Test (1) Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the starter housing and the negative voltmeter lead to the battery negative post. (2) Crank the engine with a remote control starter switch and observe the voltmeter reading. The voltmeter reading should not exceed.2 volt. A reading of.2 volt or less indicates voltage loss in the ground cable and connections are normal. If the voltmeter reading is more than.2 volt, it indicates excessive voltage loss in the starter ground circuit. Make the following tests to isolate the point of excessive voltage loss. Repeating the test at each connection. (a) Starter drive housing. (b) Cable terminal at the engine. (c) Cable clamp at the battery. A small change will occur each time a normal portion of the circuit is removed from the test. A definite change in the voltmeter reading indicates that the last part eliminated in the test is at fault. Maximum allowable voltage loss is as follows: Battery ground cable.2 volt Engine ground circuit.1 " Each connection.0 " SERVICE PROCEDURES STARTING MOTOR Removal (1) Disconnect the ground cable at the battery. (2) Remove the starter cable at the starter. (3) Disconnect the solenoid lead wire from the solenoid. (4) Remove the bolts attaching the starting motor to the flywheel housing and remove the starting motor and housing removable seal. TESTING THE STARTING MOTOR (BENCH TEST) a. Free Running Test (1) Place the starter in a vise equipped with soft jaws and connect a fully-charged, 12 volt battery to the starter. (2) Connect a test ammeter (100 amperes scale) and carbon pile rheostat in series with the battery positive post and the starter terminal. (3) Connect the voltmeter (15 volt scale) across

13 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 843 the starter. (4) Rotate the carbon pile to the full-resistance position. (5) Connect the battery cable from the battery negative post to the starter frame. (6) Adjust the rheostat until the battery voltage shown on the voltmeter reads 11 volts. The current draw should be 78 amperes maximum at 3800 minimum rpm. b. Stall Test (1) Install the starting motor in the test bench. (2) Follow the instructions of the test equipment manufacturer and check the stall torque of the starter against the following specifications. (3) With the applied battery voltage adjusted to 4 volts, the stall torque should be 8.5 foot-pounds minimum with a current draw of 350 amperes. STARTER DISASSEMBLY {Fig. 6) (1) Remove the through bolts and tap the commutator end head from thefieldframe. (2) Remove the thrust washers from the armature shaft. (3) Lift the brush holder springs and remove the brushes from the brush holders. (4) Remove the brush plate (Fig. 7). (5) Disconnect the rield coil leads at the solenoid connector (Fig. 8). (6) Remove the solenoid attaching screws and remove the solenoid and boot assembly (Fig. 9), (7) Drive out the over-running clutch shift fork pivot pin (Fig. 10). Fig. 8 Field CoE Leads Disconnected from the Solenoid Connector (8) Remove the drive end pinion housing and spacer washer. (9) Note the position of the shifter fork on the starter.-and remove the shifter fork (Fig. 11). (10) Slide the over-running clutch pinion gear toward the commutator end of the armature, drive the stop retainer toward the clutch pinion gear to Fig. 9 Removing the Starter Solenoid Fig. 7 Removing the Brush Ring Fig. 10 Removing the Shifter Fork Pivot Pin

14 8-14 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS (3) The drive unit may be cleaned with a brush moistened with cleaning solvent and wiped dry with a cloth. BRUSHES AND SPRINGS REPLACEMENT s STOP RETAINER SNAP RING SPACER WASHER Fig* 11 Removing the Shifter Fork 61x23 expose the snap ring and remove the snap ring. (11) Slide the over-running clutch drive from the armature shaft. (12) If it is necessary to replace the field coils, remove the ground brushes terminal attaching screw and raise the brushes with the terminal and shunt wire up and away from the field frame (Fig. 12). Remove the pole shoe screws with a special pole shoe impact screwdriver, Tool C Gleaning and Inspection (1) Do not immerse the parts in a cleaning solvent. Immersing the field frame and coil assembly and/or armature will damage the insulation. Wipe these parts with cloth only. (2) Do not immerse the drive unit in a cleaning solvent. The drive clutch is pre-lubricated at the factory and solvent will wash the lubrication from the clutch. (1) The brushes that are worn more than 14 the length of the new brush, or are oil-soaked, should be replaced. The brushes and springs can be replaced after removing the commutator end head and the brush plate. (2) Lift the brushes; disengage the brushes from 'the brush holders and remove the brush plate. (3) Disconnect the field lead wires at the solenoid connector (Fig. 8). (4) Remove the screw attaching the ground brush terminal to the field frame and raise the brushes and terminal up and away from the field frame (Fig. 12). NOTE: The leads are not equal in length. Check the brush leads before cutting, to insure the proper length at installation. (5) Clip the brush leads at the ground terminal and at the field coils. (6) Open the brush lead retaining clips to remove the old brush leads. (7) When resoldering the brush leads, make a strong, low resistance connection using a high temperature solder and resin flux. Do not use acid. Do not break the shunt wire when removing and installing the ground brushes. (8) The brush springs can be removed by spreading the retainers and disengaging the springs from the retainer legs. (9) Measure the brush spring tension with a spring scale hooked under the spring near the end. Pull the scale on a line parallel to the edge of the GROUND BRUSHES TERMINAL k 57P306 Fig. 12 Removing the Ground Brushes Terminal Fig. 13 Testing the Armature for Short

15 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 845 brush and take a reading just as the spring end leaves the brush. The spring tension should be 32 to 48 ounces. Replace the springs that do not meet specifications. TESTING THE ARMATURE a. Testing the Armature for Short Circuit Place the armature in the growler (Fig. 13) and hold a thin steel blade parallel to the core and just above it, while slowly rotating the armature in the growler. A shorted armature will cause the blade to vibrate and be attracted to the core. Replace a shorted armature. b. Testing Armature for Ground Touch'the armature shaft and end of a commutatorbar with a pair of test lamp test prods (Fig. 14). If the lamp lights, it indicates a grounded armature. Replace the grounded armature. c. Testing Commutator Runout, Refacing and Undercutting Place the armature in a pair of "Vblocks and measure the runout with a dial indicator. Test both the shaft- and the commutator. A bent shaft requires replacement of the armature. When the commutator runout exceeds.003 inch, the commutator should be refaced. Remove only sufficient metal to provide a smooth, even surface. TESTING THE FIELD COILS FOR GROUND (1) Remove the through bolts and remove the commutator end frame. (2) Remove the brushes from the brush holders and remove the brush ring (Fig. 7). Fig. 15 Testing the Series Coil for Ground (3) Disconnect the field lead wires at the solenoid connector and separate the field leads to make sure they do not touch the solenoid connector (Fig. 8). (4) Remove the ground brushes attaching screw and raise the brushes with the terminal and shunt wire up and away from the field frame (Fig. 12). (5) Touch one probe of the test lamp to the series field coil lead and the other probe to the field frame (Fig. 15). The lamp should not light. (6) Touch one probe to the shunt field coil lead and the other probe to the field frame (Fig. 16). If the lamp lights in either test steps (5) or (6), the field coils are grounded. If the field coils are grounded, test each coil separately after unsoldering the connector wires. Replace the grounded field coils. (7) Touch each of the brush holders with one test probe, while holding the other test probe against the brush ring. Two brush holders that are 180 degrees Fig. 14 Testing the Armature for Ground Fig. 16 Testing the Shunt Coil for Ground

16 8-16 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS necessarily easily), but should not rotate in the opposite direction. If the drive unit does not function properly, or the pinion is worn or burred, replace the drive unit. STARTER ASSEMBLY (Fig. 8). Fig. 17 Testing the Insulated Brush Holders for Ground apart should cause the test lamp to light as they are intentionally grounded. The other two brush holders (Fig. 17) should not cause the lamp to light when tested, as they are insulated. If the insulated brush holders cause the lamp to light when tested, it indicates that the brush holders on the brush ring are grounded. Replace the brush ring assembly if the brush holders are grounded. REPLACING THE FIELD COILS A pole shoe impact screwdriver Tool C-3475 should be used to remove and install the field coils to prevent damage to the pole shoe screws and for proper tightening. The pole shoes that are loose and not properly seated may cause the armature core to rub the pole shoes. This will decrease the starter efficiency and damage the armature core. SERVICING THE BRUSHES Inspect the armature shaft bearing surfaces and bushings for wear by placing the armature core in a vise equipped with soft jaws. Do not squeeze tightly. Try the commutator end frame, the drive end frame, and armature support bushings for wear by placing them on shafts and inspecting for side play. Replace the commutator end frame and bushing assembly if the bushing is worn, also, replace the drive end bushing if it is worn. The bushing should be well soaked in SAE 30W engine oil before it is installed. SERVICING THE DRIVE UNIT Place the drive unit on the shaft and, while holding the armature, rotate the drive pinion. The drive pinion should rotate smoothly in one direction (not (1) Lubricate the armature shaft and splines with SAE 10W oil or 30W rust preventive oil. (2) Install the starter drive, stop collar (retainer), the lock ring and the spacer washer. (3) Install the shifter fork over the starter drive spring retainer washer with the narrow leg of fork toward commutator (Fig. 11). This is important, if the fork is not properly positioned, the starter gear travel will be restricted causing a lockup in the clutch mechanism. (4) Install the drive end (pinion) housing on the armature shaft, indexing the shifting fork with the slot in the drive end of the housing. (5) Install the shifter fork pivot pin (Fig. 10). (6) Install the armature with the clutch drive, shifter fork, and pinion housing; slide the armature into the field frame until the pinion housing indexes with the slot in the field frame. (7) Install the solenoid and boot assembly (Fig. 9). Tighten bolts 60 to 70 inch-pounds torque. (8) Install the ground brushes (Fig. 12). (9) Connect the field coil leads at the solenoid connector (Fig. 8). (10) Install the brush holder ring (Fig. 7) indexing the tang of the ring in the hole of the field frame. (11) Position the brushes in the brush holders. Be sure the field coil lead wires are properly enclosed behind the brush holder ring and that they do not interfere with the brush operation. Fig. 18 Measuring the Starter Drive Pinion Clearance

17 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-17 (12) Install the thrust washers on the commutator end of the armature shaft to obtain.010 inch minimum end play. (13) Install the commutator end head. (14) Install the through bolts and tighten 40 to 50 inch-pounds torque. ADJUSTING STARTER DRIVE GEAR (PINION) CLEARANCE (1) Place the starter assembly in a vise equipped with soft jaws and tighten the vise sufficiently to hold the starter. NOTE: Place a wedge or screwdriver between the bottom of the solenoid and the starter frame to eliminate all deflection in the solenoid when making the pinion clearance check. (Fig. 18). (2) Push in on the solenoid plunger link (Fig. 18) (NOT THE FORK LEVER) until the plunger bottoms, (3) Measure the clearance between the end of the pinion and pin stop with plunger seated and pinion pushed toward the commutator end. The clearance should be Vs inch. Adjust for proper clearance by loosening the solenoid attaching screws and move the solenoid fore and aft as required. (4) Test the starter operation under a free running test (Paragraph "Testing the Starter Motor (Bench Test)" ). STARTER INSTALLATION (1) Before installing the starter, be sure the starter and flywheel housing mounting surfaces are free of dirt and oil. These surfaces must be clean to make good electrical contact. (2) Position the starter to the flywheel housing removable seal. (3) Install the starter from beneath the engine. (4) Tighten the attaching bolts securely. (5) Attach the wires to the solenoid switch and the starter terminal. (6) Install the battery ground cable and test operation of the starter for proper engine cranking. STARTING MOTOR (REDUCTION GEAR TYPE) The reduction-gear starting motor has an armatureto-engine crankshaft ratio of 45 to 1; a 3.5 to 1 reduction gear set is built into the motor assembly, which is housed in an aluminum die casting (Fig. 19). The starting motor utilizes a solenoid shift device, the housing of the solenoid is entegrai with the starting motor drive end housing. exceed.3 volt. A reading of voltage that exceeds.3 volt indicates there is high resistance caused from loose circuit connections, a faulty cable, burned starter relay or solenoid switch contacts. A current that is high and is combined with slow cranking speed, indicates that the starter should be removed and repaired. TESTING STARTER RESISTANCE AND CURRENT DRAW (1) Test the battery electrolyte specific gravity. Specific gravity should be or above. If the battery specific gravity is below 1.220, recharge the battery to full charge before proceeding with the test. (2) Disconnect the positive bettery lead from the battery terminal post. Connect an 0 to 300 scale ammeter between the disconnected lead and the battery terminal post. (3) Connect a test voltmeter with 10 volt scale division between the battery positive post and the starter switch terminal at the starter solenoid. (4) Crank the engine and observe the readings on the voltmeter and ammeter. The voltage should not STARTER GROUND CIRCUIT TEST (1) Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the starter housing and the negative voltmeter lead to the battery negative post. (2) Crank the engine with a remote control starter switch and observe the voltmeter reading. The voltmeter reading should not exceed.3 volt. A reading of.3 volt or less indicates voltage in the ground cable and connections is normal. If the voltmeter reading is more than.3 volt, it indicates excessive voltage loss in the starter ground circuit. Make the following tests to isolate the point of excessive voltage loss. Repeating the test at each connection. (a) Starter drive housing. (b) Cable terminal at the engine.

18 WASHER SLEEVE END PLAY SOLENOID RETAINER SOLENOID POLE SHOE (4) ARMATURE -REMOVABLE CORE -FORK RETAINER THRUST WASHERS FIBRE WASHERS (AS REQUIRED) STEEL WASHER (.033) OVERRUNNING CLUTCH FRICTION WASHER 62x219 Fig. 19 Starting Motor Cross Section

19 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-19 l t (c) Cable clamp at the battery. A small change will occur each time a normal portion of the circuit Is removed from the test. A definite change In the voltmeter reading indicates that the last part eliminated in the test Is at fault. Maximum allowable voltage loss is as follows: Battery ground cable.2 volt Engine ground circuit.1 " Each connection.0 " STARTING' MOTOR Removal (1) Disconnect the ground cable at battery. (2) Remove the cable at the starter. (3) Disconnect the solenoid lead wire at the solenoid terminals. (4) Remove the one stud nut and one bolt attaching the starting motor to the flywheel housing and remove the starting motor, housing and removable seal. TESTING THE STARTING MOTOR (BENCH TEST) a. Free Ruiming Test (1) Place the starter in a vise and connect a fullycharged, 12 volt battery to the starter as follows: (2) Connect a test ammeter (100 amperes scale) and carbon pile rheostat in series with the battery positive post and the starter terminal. (3) Connect a voltmeter (15 volt scale) across the starter. (4) Rotate the carbon pile to a full-resistance position. (5) Connect the battery cable from the battery negative post to the starter frame, (6) Adjust the rheostat until the battery voltage shown on the voltmeter reads 11 volts. (7) The current draw should be 85 amperes maximum at 1950 minimum rpm. b. Stall Test (1) Install the starter in a test bench. (2) Follow the instructions of the test equipment manufacturer and test the stall torque of the starter against the following specifications. (3) With applied battery voltage adjusted to 4 volts, the stall torque should be 24.0 foot-pounds minimum with a" current draw of 475 amperes. SERVICE PROCEDURES DISASSEMBLY (1) Place the gear housing of the starter in a vise equipped with soft jaws. Use the vise as a support fixture only. DO NOT clamp. (2) Remove the two through bolts and the starter end head assembly. (3) Carefully pu!l the armature up and out of the gear housing, and the starter frame and field assembly. Remove the steel and fiber thrust washer. NOTE: The wire of the shunt field coil is soldered to the brush terminal. One pair of brushes are connected to this terminal. The other pair of brushes is attached to the series field coils by means of a terminal screw. Carefully pull the frame and field assembly up just enough to expose the terminal screw and the solder connection of the shunt field at the brush terminal. Place two wood blocks between the starter frame and starter gear housing (Fig. 20) to facilitate removal of the terminal screw and the unsoldering of the shunt field wire at the brush terminal. (4) Support the brush terminal by placing a finger '.ehind the terminal and remove the terminal screw (Fig.20). Fig. 20 Removing the Brush Terminal Screw

20 8-20 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS BRUSH HOLDER SOLENOID ASSEMBLY 62x199 62x201 Fig. 21 Unsoldering the Shunt Coil Lead Wire (5) Unsolder the shunt field coil lead from the starter brush terminal (Fig, 21). (6) Eemove the brush insulator which prevents contact between the brush terminal and the gear housing (Fig. 22). NOTE; The brush holder plate with the brush terminal, contact and brushes Is serviced as an assembly. (7) Remove the screw attaching the brush holder plate to the starter gear housing (Fig. 22). (8) Remove the brush holder plate with the brushes and solenoid as an assembly (Fig. 23). (9) Unsolder the solenoid winding from the starter brush terminal (Fig. 24). Fig. 23 Removing the Brush Holder Plate BRUSH TERMINAL POST POSITIVE BRUSHES 62x202 Fig. 24 Unsoldering the Solenoid Winding Lead BRUSH HOLDER PLATE SCREW INSULATOR BRUSH TERMINAL SOLENOID CONTACT BRUSH HOLDER PLATE SOLENOID ASSEMBLY SOLENOID STARTER LEAD WIRE BATTERY TERMINAL 62x200 Fig. 22 Removing the Brush Holder Plate Screw 62x203 Fig. 25 Separating the Solenoid from the Brush Holder Plate

21 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-21 Fig. 29 Removing the Dust Cover Fig. 26 Removing the Contact Assembly Fig. 27 Removing the Solenoid Coil Sleeve (10) Remove the nut 0% 2 wrench), steel washer and nylon washer from the solenoid terminal (11) Separate the brush holder plate from the solenoid (Fig. 25). (12) Remove the nut, steel washer and nylon washer from the starter battery terminal. (13) Remove the starter battery terminal from the holder plate. (14) Remove the solenoid contact assembly (Fig. 26). (15) Remove the solenoid coil sleeve (Fig. 27). (16) Remove the solenoid return spring from the well of the solenoid housing moving core (See Fig. 23). (17) Remove the solenoid coll retainer washer and solenoid coil retainer from the solenoid housing (Fig. 28). ' (18) Remove the dust cover from the gear housing (Fig. 29). (19) Release the snap ring that positions the driven gear on the pinion shaft (Fig. 30). 62x206 Fig. 28 Identification of the Solenoid Coil Retainer and the Retainer Washer Fig. 30 Removing the Driven Gear Snap Ring

22 8-22 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS Fig. 31 Removing the Pinion Shaft Retainer Ring CAUTION The ring is under tension and a cloth should he placed over the ring to prevent the ring from springing away after removal. (20) Release the retainer ring at the front of the pinion shaft (Fig. 31). NOTE: Do not spread the retainer ring any greater than the outside diameter of the pinion shaft otherwise the lock ring can be damaged. (21) Push the pinion shaft towards the rear of the housing (Fig. 32) and remove the snap ring and thrust washers, clutch and pinion assembly, with the two shifter fork nylon actuators (Fig. 33). (22) Remove the driven gear and friction washer. (23) Pull the shifting fork forward and remove the solenoid moving core (Fig. 34). (24) Remove the shifting fork retainer pin (Fig. 35) and remove the clutch shifting fork assembly. Fig. 34 Removing the Moving Core PINION SHAFT Fig. 32 Removing the Pinion Shaft Fig. 35 Removing the Shifting Fork Pin

23 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-23 (25) The gear housing is serviced with the pinion shaft and armature shaft bushings as an assembly. CLEANING THE STARTEB PARTS (1) Do not Immerse the parts in cleaning solvent. Immersing the field frame and coil assembly and/or armature will damage the insulation. Wipe these parts with a clean cloth only. (2) Do not immerse the clutch unit in cleaning solvent. The clutch is pre-lubricated at the factory and solvent will wash the lubrication from the clutch. (3) The starter clutch outer housing and pinion gear may be cleaned with a cloth moistened with cleaning solvent and wiped dry with a clean dry cloth. REPLACEMENT OF BRUSHES AND SPRINGS (1) Brushes that are worn more than % the length of the new brushes, or are oil-soaked, should be replaced. (2) When resoldering the shunt field and solenoid lead, make a strong, low resistance connection using a high temperature solder and resin flux. Do not use acid nor acid core solder. Do not break the shunt field wire when removing and installing the brushes. (3) Measure the brush spring tension with a spring scale hooked under the spring near the end. Pull the scale on a line parallel to the edge of the brush and take a reading just as the spring end leaves the brush. The spring tension should be 32 to 48 ounces. Replace the springs that do not meet specifications. TESTING THE ARMATURE a. Testing the Armature for Short Circuit Place the armature in the growler and hold a thin steel blade parallel to the core and just above it, while slowly rotating the armature in the growler. A shorted armature will cause the blade to vibrate and be attracted to the core. Replace any armature that is shorted. b. Testing Armature for Ground Contact the armature shaft and each of the commutator riser bars with a.pair of test lamp test prods. If the lamp lights, It indicates a grounded armature. Replace any grounded armature. c. Testing Commutator Runout Refacing and Undercutting Place the armature In pair of "V" blocks and measure the runout with a dial indicator; measure both the shaft and the commutator. A bent shaft requires replacement of the armature. When the commutator runout exceeds.003 inch, the commutator should be refaced and undercut using Tool C-770. Remove only sufficient metal to provide a smooth, even surface. d. Testing Held Coils for Ground (1) Remove the field frame assembly from the starter. (2) Carefully drill out the rivet that attaches the series field coil (ground) lead and shunt field coil lead to the field frame. (3) Insulate the field coil leads from the field frame. (4) Test for ground using a 110 volt test lamp. Touch one prod of test lamp to series field coil lead and other prod to the field frame. The lamp should not light. Repeat procedure for the shunt field coil. If the lamp lights, it indicates that the field coils are grounded and require replacement. REPLACING THE FIELD COILS A pole shoe impact screwdriver Tool C-3475 should be used to remove and install the field coils to prevent damage to the pole shoe screws and for proper tightening. The pole shoes that are loose and not properly seated may cause the armature core to rub the pole shoes. This will decrease starter efficiency and damage the armature core. i NOTE: Make sure the area between the leads and the field frame is clean. Peen a new rivet securely to insure a good electrical contact. SERVICING THE BUSHINGS Inspect the armature shaft bearing and pinion shaft surfaces and bushings for wear. Try the bushings for wear by placing them on shafts* and testing for side play. Replace the commutator end head and bushing assembly if the bushing is worn. Replace the starter gear housing if the bushings are worn. SERVICING THE STARTER CLUTCH UNIT Do not immerse the starter clutch unit in a cleaning solvent. The starter clutch is pre-lubricated at the factory and the solvent will wash the lubricant from the clutch. The starter clutch outer housing and pinion gear may be cleaned with a cloth moistened with cleaning solvent and wiped dry with a clean dry cloth. Rotate the pinion. The pinion gear should rotate

24

25 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-25 smoothly in one direction, but should not rotate in the opposite direction. If the starter clutch unit does not function properly, or the pinion is worn, chipped or burred, replace the starter clutch unit. ASSEMBLY (Fig. 36) NOTE: The shifter fork consists of two spring steel plates assembled with two rivets (Fig. 37). There should be approximately inch side movement, as shown in Figure 37 to insure proper pinion gear engagement. Lubricate between the plates sparingly with SAE 10 engine oil. (1) Position the shifter fork in the drive housing and install the shifting fork retainer pin (Fig. 35). One tip of pin should be straight, the other tip should be bent at a 15 degree angle away from the housing. Fork and retainer pin should operate freely after bending the tip of pin. (2) Install the solenoid moving core and engage the shifting fork (Fig. 34). (3) Enter the pinion shaft into the drive housing, and install the friction washer and driven gear.- (4) Install the clutch and pinion assembly. (Fig. 33), thrust washer, retaining ring and the thrust washer. (5) Complete the installation of the pinion shaft engaging the shifting fork with the clutch actuators. Figure 38 shows the correct relation of the parts at the assembly. NOTE: The friction washer must be positioned on the shoulder of the splines of the pinion shaft before the driven gear is positioned. (6) Install the driven gear snap ring (Fig. 31). (7) Install the pinion shaft retaining ring (Fig. 31). Make sure the ring lits tightly in the shaft groove. % (8) Install the solenoid coll retainer (Fig. 28) Fig. 38 Shifter Fork and Clutch Arrangement (with tangs down). NOTE: Space the retainer in the housing bore so that the four tangs rest on the ridge in the hqusihg bore and not in the recesses. (9) Install the solenoid coil retainer washer. (10) Install the solenoid return spring. (Refer to Fig. 23). NOTE: Inspect the condition of the starteriofenoid switch contacting washer, if the top of washer is burned from arcing, disassemble the contact switch assembly and reverse the washer. (ft) Install the solenoid contact assembly into the solenoid \ Fig. 26). Make sure the contact spring is-positioned on the solenoid contact assembly. NOTE: Inspect the condition of the contacts in the brush holder plate. If the contacts are badly burned, replace the brush holder with brushes and contacts as an assembly. Fig. 37 Shifter Fork Assembly Fig. 39 Installing the Solenoid Coil and Sleeve

26 8-26 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS Fig. 40 Positioning the Brashes with Tool Se^ C-3855 (12) Enter the solenoid lead wire through the hole in the brush holder (Fig. 25) and solenoid stud, insulating washer, flat washer and the nut (13) Solder the solenoid lead wire to the solenoid contact terminal (Fig. 24). Wrap the wire securely around the terminal, and solder securely with a high temperature solder and resin flux. (14) Carefully enter the solenoid coil and solenoid coil sleeve into the bore of the gear housing and position the brush plate assembly into the gear hous- ing. (Fig. 39). Align the tongue of the ground terminal with the notch in the brush holder. (15) After the brush holder is bottomed in the housing, install the attaching screw (Fig. 22). Tighten the screw 10 to 15 inch pounds. Install the flat insulating washer and hold in place with friction tape. (16) Position the brushes with Tool C-3855, as shown in Figure 40. (17) Position the field frame to the exact position and resolder the field coil lead (Fig. 21). (18) Install the brush terminal screw (Fig. 20). (19) Install the armature thrust washer on the brush holder plate (Fig. 19) and enter the armature into the field frame and gear housing (Fig. 41) ; carefully engaging the splines of the shaft with the reduction gear. (20) Remove the brush positioning Tools C-3855 (Fig. 42). (21) Install the thrust washer (fibre) and washer (steel) on the armature shaft. (22) Position the starter end head assembly and install the starter frame screws and lockwashers. Tighten the screws securely. (23) Install the gear housing dust cover. Make sure the dimples on the cover are securely engaged in the holes provided in the gear housing. STARTING MOTOR INSTALLATION (1) Before installing the starting motor, make sure the starter and flywheel housing mounting surfaces are free of dirt and oil to insure a good electrical contact. (2) Position the starter to the flywheel housing removable seal. Fig. 41 Installing the Starter Armature Fig. 42 Removing the Brush Positioning Tools

27 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-27 (3) Install the starting motor, washer and bolt and washer and nut. NOTE: When tightening the attaching bolt and nut be sure to hold the starting motor moved away from the engine to Insure the proper alignment. (4) Attach the wire at the solenoid switch terminal and cable to the starter terminal. (5) Connect the battery ground cable and test the operation of the starting motor for proper engine cranking. ALTEBNATOR The alternator (Fig, 43) is fundamentally an A.C. current generator, with six (6) built-in silicon rectifiers, that convert the A.C. current into D.C. current. D.C. current is available at the "output" "BAT" terminal. A voltage regulator (Fig. 44) is used in the field circuit to limit the output voltage. The main components of the alternator are the rotor, the stator, xhe rectifiers, the two end shields and the drive pulley. (See Fig. 45.) VOLTAGE REGULATOR The only function of the regulator is to limit the output voltage. The voltage regulator accomplishes this by controlling the flow of current in the rotor field coil, and in effect controls the strength of the rotor magnetic field. TESTING THE ALTERNATOR SYSTEM (On Vehicle) a. Charging Circuit Resistance Test Test the condition of the battery and state of charge. With the battery in good condition and fully charged, proceed with the tests as follows: (1) Disconnect the lead at the alternator "BAT" terminal. Connect a 0-50 ampere scale D.C. ammeter in series between the "BAT" terminal and "BAT" lead which was disconnected from the terminal (Fig. 46). (2) Connect the positive lead of a test D.C. voltmeter to the "BAT" lead, and connect the negative voltmeter lead to the battery positive ( + ) terminal. (3) Start and operate the engine at a speed to obtain 10 amperes flowing in the circuit. Observe the voltmeter, reading. The voltmeter reading should not exceed.2 volt. If a higher voltage drop is indicated, inspect, clean and tighten all the connections in the charging circuit. A voltage drop test may be performed at each connection to locate that connection with excessive resistance. Fig. 43 Alternator Installed Fig. 44 Voltage Regulator Installed (Typical)

28 8-28 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS SHIELD - INSULATOR \ NUT WASHER \ \ WASHER ". BUSHING 1 SPACER I INSULATOR HEAT SINK.1 j SCREW SHIELD CAPACITOR BOLT STATOR ^ r- SLIP RINGS 1 HM: *!l J - T O WASHER - 7 5f RECTIFIER / ROTOR RETAINER j \, ^ BRUSH PACKAGE / ll s \ \\ INSERT / '.j ; \ VHOLDER / '; s TERMINAL : I ; NYLON WASHER BEARING SCREW j WASHER / SCREW BEARING 62 x 240 Fig. 45 Alternator (Disassembled View) (4) Disconnect the test instruments. Connect the "BAT" lead to the alternator "BAT" terminal and tighten securely. b. Field Circuit Resistance Test (Fig. 47) (1) Disconnect the ignition wire at the coil side of the ballast resistor and connect a D.C. voltmeter between the voltage regulator "FLD" (field) terminal and battery positive post. (2) Turn the ignition switch on and turn the voltmeter selector switch to the low voltage scale and read the meter. The votage should not exceed.3 Fig. 48 Charging the Circuit Resistance Test Fig. 47 Field Circuit Resistance Test

29 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-29 volt. A reading in excess of.8 volt indicates high resistance in -the field circuit between the battery and the voltage regulator field terminal. (3) If high resistance is indicated, move the negative voltmeter lead to each connection along the circuit towards the battery. A sudden drop in voltage Indicates a loose or corroded connection between that point and the last point tested. To test the terminals for tightness, attempt to move the terminal while observing the voltmeter. Any motion of the meter pointer indicates looseness. TEST AMMETER r yoltase RE8ULATQR 'ISM. IBilllN Slid AMMETER A NOTE; Resistance in the regulator wiring circuit will cause flickering headlights and 'luctuations in the ammeter, c. Current Output Test {Fig. 48) mum COIL STARTER SOLENOID 4* (1) Disconnect the battery ground cable. (2) - Disconnect the "BAT" lead at the alternator output "BAT" terminal. (.3) Connect a 0-50 ampere scale D.C. ammeter in series between the alternator "BAT" terminal and the disconnected "BAT" lead. (4) Connect the "positive" lead of a test voltmeter to the output "BAT" lead. Connect the "negative" lead of the test voltmeter to ground. (5) Disconnect the field "FLD" lead at the alternator and at the regulator. (6) Connect a "jumper" lead from the alternator field "FLD" terminal to the alternator output "BAT" terminal. Be sure the ammeter lead is satisfactorily connected to the output "BAT" terminal. (7) Connect the engine tachometer. Connect the battery ground cable. (8) Connect a battery-starter tester (equipped Fig. 49 Voltage Regulator Test with a variable carbon pile) to the battery terminals. (9) Start and operate the engine at 1250 rpm. (10) Adjust the "carbon pile" to obtain a reading of 15 volts on the test voltmeter. (11) Observe the reading on the test ammeter. The current output should be within the limits shown in the specifications. If the output is slightly less (5 to 7 amperes) than that specified above, it may be an indication of possible "open" rectifier or other alternator Internal problem. If the output is considerably lower than that specified above, it may be an indication of a possible "shorted"' rectifier or other alternator internal problem. In either case the alternator should be removed and tested on the bench before disassembly. TEST MM"ii c cl Voltage Regulator Test (on the Vehicle Engine at Normal Operating Temperature (Fig. 49) (1) If the alternator current output tested satisfactorily ; turn off the ignition switch and remove the jumper lead from the alternator "field" terminal and "output" terminal. Connect the field lead at the alternator field "FLD" terminal and regulator field "FLD" terminal The test ammeter and test voltmeter leads remain connected as for the current output test. J 3., v, ^ Fig. 48 Current Output Test NOTE: If the field circuit is grounded on the field terminal side of the regulator circuit when removing or Installing the lead, while the ignition is ON, the fuse wire in the regulator circuit will be blown and the regulator may be damaged.

30 8-30 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS (2) Start and operate the engine at 1250 rpm. Turn on the lights and electrical accessories to obtain a 15 ampere output as registered on the test ammeter. Operate the engine at this speed and load for 15 minutes to make sure the entire regulator system Is stabilized. (3) Measure the temperature at the regulator by holding a reliable thermometer two (2) Inches from the regulator. (4) Turn off the lights and other electrical load. Turn on the instrument panel lights. Read the test voltmeter. With a fully charged battery and 15 amperes flowing in the circuit, the voltmeter reading should be within specifications. NOTE: No current reading on the test ammeter would indicate a blown fuse wire Inside the voltage regulator between the upper stationary contact and the "IGN" terminal. Correct the cause and replace the fusible wire. (5) Increase engine speed to 2200 rpm. Turn off all lights and/or accessories. Voltage should increase and amperage should decrease. NOTE: There will be a slightly higher voltage at higher engine speeds above 2200 rpm, however, this Increased voltage must not exceed the voltage specified by more than.7 volt at any temperature range. If the voltage reading is less than.2 volt from readings in Step (4), test the battery specific gravity to be sure battery is fully charged, (6) If the regulator setting is outside the limits shown, the regulator must be removed to remove the cover. To adjust the voltage setting, bend the regulator lower spring hanger down to increase voltage setting, or up to decrease voltage setting. Use an insulated tool to bend the spring hanger. (See Fig. 50). The regulator must be installed, correctly connected, and retested after each adjustment of the lower spring hanger. Fig. 50 Adjusting the Spring Tension NOTE: If repeated readjustment is required, it is permissible to use a jumper wire to ground the regulator base to the fender splash shield for testing, in lieu of reinstalling the regulator each time. However, it is Important that the regulator cover be reinstalled, the regulator connections correctly connected, and the regulator satisfactorily Insulated by the fender cover to prevent grounding the regulator terminals or resistances. When testing, the regulator must be at the same attitude (or angle) as when installed on the vehicle. (4) If the alternator and regulator tested satisfactorily, turn the ignition switch "OFF". Disconnect the battery ground cable. Disconnect the test instruments. Correctly connect the leads at the alternator and regulator. Connect the battery ground cable. CAUTION Be sure the negative post of the battery is always connected to ground. Incorrect battery polarity may result in wiring harness damage and may damage the alternator rectifiers. Do not ground the alternator field circuit, as this may damage the regulator. SEHVICE PHOCEDUHES REGULATOR Regulator Mechanical Adjustments If the regulator cannot be satisfactorily adjusted for voltage control, or if the regulator performance is erratic or malfunctions, it may be necessary to adjust the regulator air gap and contact point gap. (1) Remove the regulator from the vehicle. Remove the regulator cover. (2) Insert a.048 inch wire gauge between the regulator armature and the core, next to the stop pin on the spring hanger side (Fig. 51). (3) Press down on the armature (not the contact spring) until it contacts the wire gauge. The

31 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-31 Fig. 51 Testing the Air Gap upper contacts should just "open". NOTE: A 12 volt battery and test light connected in series to the "IGN" and -FLD" terminals may be used to accurately determine the contact opening. When the contacts open, the test light will go "dim". (4) Insert a.052 inch wire gauge between the armature and the core, next to the stop pin on the spring hanger side. (5) Press down the armature until it contacts the wire gauge. The contacts should remain "closed", and the test light should remain "bright". (6) If adjustment is required, adjust the air gap by loosening the screw and moving the stationary contact bracket; make sure the air gap is measured with attaching screw fully tightened. Remeasure the air gap as described in steps (2), (3), (4) and (5.) (7) Remove the wire gauge from under the armature. Measure the lower contact gap with a feeler gauge. The lower contact gap should be.015 inch (plus or minus.001"). Adjust the lower contact gap by bending the lower stationary contact bracket. (8) Install the regulator cover. Install the regulator. The electrical adjustment must be performed on the vehicle after installation of the regulator. ALTERNATOR Removal If the alternator performance does not meet current output specification limits, it will have to be removed and disassembled for further test and servicing. (1) Disconnect the battery ground cable. (2) Disconnect the alternator output "BAT" and field "FLD" leads and disconnect the ground wire. (3) Remove the alternator from the vehicle. BENCH TESTS a. Field CoE Draw if the alternator field coil draw has not been tested on the vehicle it may be tested on the test bench as follows: (1) Connect one lead of a test ammeter to one terminal of a fully charged battery. Connect a jumper wire to the other terminal of the battery, and ground it to the alternator end shield. Connect the other ammeter lead to the field terminal of the alternator. (2) Slowly rotate the alternator rotor by hand. Ooserve the ammeter reading. The field coil draw should be 2.3 amperes to 2.7 amperes at 12 volts. NOTE: A low rotor coil draw is an indication of high resistance in the field coil circuit, (brushes, slip rings, or rotor coil). A higher rotor coil draw indicates a possible shorted coil or a grounded rotor. b. Testing Alternator Internal Field Circuit for a Ground (1) To test the internal field circuit for a ground, remove the ground brush. Touch one test prod from a 110 volt test lamp to the alternator insulated brush terminal and the remaining test prod to the end shield. If the rotor assembly or insulated brush is not grounded, the lamp will not light. (2) If the lamp lights, remove the insulated brush assembly (noting how the parts are assembled) and separate the end shields by removing the three thru bolts. (3) Again test by placing one of the test prods to a slip ring and the remaining test prod to the end shield. I: the lamp lights, the rotor assembly is grounded and requires replacement. If the lamp does not light after removing the insulated brush and separating- the end shields, the cause of the ground at the first ground test was that the insulated brush is grounded. (4) Examine the plastic insulator and the screw. The screw is a special size and must not be substituted by another size. (5) Install the insulated brush holder, terminal, insulated washer, shake proof washer and screw. If the parts were not assembled in this order or if the wrong screw was used this could be the cause of the ground condition. c. Disassembly To prevent possible damage to the brush assemblies, they should be removed before proceeding with the disassembly of the alternator. The insulated brush is mounted in a plastic holder that positions the brush vertically against one of the slip rings. (1) Remove the retaining screw lockwasher, insulated washer, and field terminal, and carefully

32 8-32 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 62x106 Fig. 55 Removing the Pulley Fig, 52 Removing the insulated Brush Fig. 53 Removing the Ground Brush lift the plastic holder containing the spring and brush assembly from the end housing (Fig. 52). (2) The ground brush is positioned horizontally against the remaining slip ring and is retained in a holder that is integral with the end shield. Remove the retaining screw and lift the clip, spring and brush assembly from the end shield (Fig. 53). CAUTION The stator is laminated, do not burr stator or the end shield. (3) Remove the through bolts and pry between the stator and drive end shield with the blade of a screwdriver (Fig. 54). Carefully separate the drive end shield, pulley and rotor assembly away from the stator and the rectifier shield assembly. (4) The pulley is an interference fit on the rotor shaft. Remove the pulley with puller Tool C-3615 and special adaptor SP-3002 (Fig. 55). Fig. 54 Separating the Drive End Shield from the Stator Fig. 56 Disengaging the Bearing Retainer from the End Shield

33 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-33 TOOL Fig. 57 Removing the Bearingfromthe Rotor Shaft (5) Pry the drive end bearing spring retainer from the end shield with a screwdriver (Fig. 56). (6) Support the end shield and tap the rotor shaft with a plastic hammer to separate the rotor from the end shield. If the drive end bearing Is to be replaced, always use the new bearing Part Number NOTE: The new bearing Is lubricated with a predetermined amount of special lubricant and does not require additional lubrication. (7) The drive end ball bearing Is an interference fit with the rotor shaft. Remove the bearing with puller Tool C-3615 and adapter as follows: (a) Position the center screw of Tool C-3615 on the rotor shaft. (b) Place the thin lower end of the adapters SP-3375 under the bearing equally spaced and the upper end of the adapters around the center screw. Fig. 58 Removing the Heat Sink Insulator Fig. 59 Removing the Rectifier End Shield Bearing (c) Hold the adapters and center screw in position with the tool sleeve. CAUTION Tool sleeve must bottom on bearing, otherwise, the adapters may be damaged. (d) Turning the center screw while holding the outer body of tool (Fig. 57) will withdraw the bearing from the rotor shaft. NOTE: No further disassembly of the rotor is required, as the balance of the rotor assembly is not serviced separately. (8) Remove the D.C. output terminal nuts and washers and remove the terminal screw and inside capacitor (on units so equipped). NOTE: The heat sink is also held in place by the terminal screw. (9) Remove the insulator (Fig. 58). (10) The needle roller bearing in the rectifier end shield is a press fit. If it is necessary to remove the rectifier end frame needle bearing, protect the end shield by supporting the shield with Tool SP when pressing the bearing out with Tool C (Fig. 59). NOTE: The new bearing is prelubricated and no additional lubricant should be added, as an excessive amount of lubricant will contaminate the slip rings and cause premature brush and rotor failures. TESTING THE RECTIFIERS WITH TOOL C-3829 The new Rectifier Tester Tool C-3829 provides a quick, simple and accurate method to test the alternator rectifiers without the necessity of disconnecting the soldered rectifier leads. With the alternator rectifier and end shield separated from the drive end housing proceed with rectifier tests as follows:

34 8-34 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS Positive Case Rectifier Test (Fig. 60) (a) Place the alternator on an Insulated surface. Connect the test lead clip to the alternator ("BAT"). output terminal. (b) Plug In the Tool C-3829 power source lead into a 110 volt A.C. power supply. Touch the exposed bare metal connections, of each of the positive case rectifiers, with the test prod. CAUTION Do not break the sealing around the rectifier lead wire, or on the inner end of the rectifier. The sealing material Is for protection against corrosion. Always touch the test prod to the exposed metal connection nearest the rectifier. The reading for satisfactory rectifiers will be 1% amperes or more. The reading should be approximately the same for the three rectifiers. When two rectifiers are good and one is shorted, the reading taken at the good rectifiers will be low, and the reading at the shorted rectifier will be zero. Disconnect the lead to the rectifier reading zero and retest. The reading of the good rectifiers will now be within the satisfactory range. When one rectifier is open it will read approximately one ampere, and the two good rectifiers will read within the satisfactory range. Negative Case Rectifier Test (Fig. 61) (a) Connect the test lead clip to the rectifier end housing. (b) Touch the exposed connection of each of the negative case rectifiers with the test prod. The test specifications are the same, and the test results will be approximately the same as for the positive case rectifiers, except the meter will read on the opposite side of the scale. NEGATIVE CASE Fig. 61 Testing the Negative TESTING THE RECTIFIERS AND STATOR (WITHOUT TOOL C-3829) (a) Separate the three (3) stator leads at the "Y" connection. (See Fig. 62). NOTE: Cut the stator connections as close to the connector as possible because they will have to be soldered together again. If they are cut too short it may be difficult to get them together again for soldering. (b) Test the rectifiers with a 12 volt battery and a test lamp equipped with a number 67 bulb (4 candle power) by connecting one side of test lamp to the positive battery post; the other side of the test lamp to a test probe with the other test probe connected to the negative battery post. (c) Contact the outer case of the rectifier with one probe and the other probe to the wire In the center of the rectifier. (See Fig. 63.) (d) Reverse the probes, moving the probe from Fig. 60 Testing the Positive Rectifiers Fig. 62 Separating the Three Stator Leads (Typical)

35 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-35 Fig. 63 Testing the Rectifiers with a Test Lamp (Typical) the rectifier outer case to the rectifier wire, and the probe from the rectifier wire to the rectifier outer case. If the test lamp "lights" in one direction but does "not light" in the other direction, the rectifier is satisfactory. If lamp lights in "both directions", the rectifier is "shorted". If the test lamp does "not light" in either direction, the rectifier is "open". NOTE: The usual cause of an open or a blown rectifier is a faulty capacitor or a battery that has been installed in reverse polarity. If the battery is installed properly and the rectifiers are open, test the capacitor capacity.158 microfarad (minimum). (e) Disconnect the rectifiers from the stator leads. (f) Test the stator for grounds using a 110 volt test lamp (Fig. 64). Use wood slats to insulate the stator from the rectifier shield. Contact one prod of the test lamp to the stator pole frame, and con- Fig. 65 Testing the Stator Windings for Continuity (Typical) tact the other prod to each of the three stator leads. The test lamp should "not light". If the test lamp lights, the stator windings are "grounded". (g) Test the stator winding for continuity, by contacting one prod of the test lamp to all three stator leads at the "Y" connection. Contact each of the three stator leads (disconnected from the rectifiers). The test lamp should "light" when the prod contacts each of the three leads. If the test lamp does not light the stator winding is "open". (See Fig. 65). (h) Install a new stator if the one tested is "grounded" or "open". If the rectifiers must be replaced unsolder the rectifier wire at the soldered joint. NOTE: Three rectifiers are pressed into the heat sink and three in the end shield. When removing the rectifiers, it is necessary to support the end shield and/or heat sink to prevent damage to these castings. Fig. 64 Testing the Stator for Grounds (Typical) Fig. 66 Removing the Rectifier

36 8-36 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS SLIP RING PRESSED ON GROUND SHAFT SUP RING PRESSED ON KNURLED SHAFT Fig. 67 Slip Ring Solder Lugs (1) Support the rectifier shield on Tool C-3771 welded to a support plate. NOTE: This tool Is cut-away and slotted to fit over the wires and around the bosses In the shield. Make sure that the bore of the tool completely surrounds the rectifier, then press the rectifier out of the shield using a suitable press out tool Fig. 66. REPLACING SLIP RINGS Slip rings that are damaged can be replaced as follows: (1) Unsolder the field coil leads at the solder lugs (Fig. 67). (2) Cut through the copper of both slip rings at opposite points (180 apart) with a chisel (Fig. 68). (3) Break the insulator and remove the old ring. (4) Clean away dirt and particles of the old slip ring from the rotor. Fig. 69 Aligning the Slip Ring with the Field Wire Guide Wire (5) Scrape the ends of the field coil lead wires clean for good electrical contact. (6) Scrape one end (about % 6 inch) of a piece of bare wire (approx. 18 gauge) three inches long (to be used as a guide wire). (7) Tin the scraped area of the guide wire with resin core solder. Lap the tinned end of the wire over the field coil lead to the insulated ring and solder the two together. Fig. 68 Cutting the Old Slip Rings Fig. 70 Installing the Slip Ring

37 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-37 (8) Position the new slip ring carefully* over the guide wire and the rotor shaft so the wire will lay in the slip ring groove (Fig, 69). The groove in the slip ring must be in line with the Insulated brush field lead to.provide room for the lead without damaging it. (9) Place installing Tool over the rotor shaft with the guide wire protruding from the slot in the tool. (10) Position Jie rotor, slip ring and tool assembly in an arbor press (Fig. 70). Pull upon the guide wire being careful to guide the insulated field lead into the slip ring groove. While guiding the insulated field lead through the groove, press the slip ring on the shaft. When the slip ring is bottomed on the rotor fan the end of the field lead should be visible at the solder lug (Fig. 71). (11) Unsolder the guide wire from the insulated brush slip ring lead. Press the field lead into the solder lug and solder to lug with resin core solder. CAUTION Do not use acid core solder. A short circuit may result and corrosion will definitely occur. (12) Coil the ground brush ring field lead around the solder lug (Fig. 71) and solder with resin core solder. (13) Test the slip rings for ground with a 110 volt test lamp by touching one test lead prod to the rotor pole shoe and the remaining prod to the slip rings. The test lamp should not light. If the lamp lights, 62X 529 Fig. 71 Solder Points Slip ling Installed Fig. 72 Installing a Rectifier the slip rings are shorted to the ground, possibly due to a grounding Insulated field lead when installing the slip ring. If the rotor Is not grounded, lightly clean the slip ring surfaces with -00- sand paper and assemble the alternator. Assembly (1) Support the heat sink or rectifier end shield on the circular plate Tool SP NOTE: Remove the output terminal nuts before installing new rectifiers. <2) Note the rectifier identification to make sure the correct rectifier is being installed. Refer to the Parts List for the rectifier identification. (3) Start the new rectifier into the casting squarely and press the rectifier into the casting with Tool C-3772 (Fig. 72). CAUTION The outer counterbore of the installing Tool C-3772 must clear the outside diameter of the rectifier (diode) and the.515 inch inner counterbore of the tool must clear the plastic dome (units so equipped) to insure that all pressing force is applied on the outside rim of the rectifier. Do Not Use a hammer to start the rectifier into its bore in the end shield. Use an arbor press and Tool C-3772 to install the rectifier. DO NOT HAMMER OR SHOCK the rectifier in any manner as this will fracture the thin silicon wafer in the rectifier causing complete rectifier failure. (4) Solder the wire lead to the wires disconnected at removal. Hold the wire lead with pliers (Fig. 73) while soldering it. This will help to dissipate heat,

38 8-38 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS RECTIFIER LEAD 62x114 62x116 Fig. 73 Soldering the Rectifier and Stator Leads protecting the rectifier. (5) Support the end shield on Tool SP-3383 so that the notch in support tool will clear the raised section of the heat sink and press the bearing into position with Tool SP-3381 (Fig. 74). NOTE: New bearings are pre-lubricated, additional lubrication Is not required. (6) Insert the drive end bearing In the drive end shield with the shielded side of bearing toward the rotor and Install the bearing retainer plate to hold the bearing In place. (7) Position the bearing and drive end shield on the rotor shaft and, while supporting the base of the rotor shaft, press the bearing and shield into position on the rotor shaft with the arbor press and Tool C-3769 (Fig. 75). CAUTION Make sure that the bearing is Installed squarely at Fig. 75 Installing the Drive End Shield and Bearing installation; otherwise, damage to the bearing will result. Press the bearing on the rotor shaft until the bearing contacts the shoulder on the rotor shaft. (8) Install the pulley on the rotor shaft. The shaft of the rotor must be supported in a manner so that all pressing force is on the pulley hub and rotor shaft (Fig. 76). NOTE: Do not exceed 6800 pounds pressure. Press the pully on the rotor shaft until the pulley contacts the inner race of the drive end bearing. (9) The alternators have the capacitor mounted internally. Make sure the heat sink insulator is in place. (10) Install the output terminal screw with the capacitor attached through the heat sink and end shield (Fig. 77). (11) Install the insulating washers, lockwashers and lock nuts. (12) Make sure the heat sink and insulator are Fig. 74 Installing the Rectifier End Shield Bearings Fig. 76 Installing the Alternator Pulley

39 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-39 Fig. 77 Installing the Inside Capacitor in position and tighten the lock nut. (13) Position the stator on the rectifier end shield. (14) Position the rotor end shield assembly on the stator and rectifier end shield. Align the through bolt holes in the stator, rectifier end shield and drive end shield. (15) Compress the stator and. both end shields by hand and Install the through bolts, washers and nuts. (18) Install the Insulated brush In the rectifier end. Place the bronze terminal on the plastic holder with 'the tab of the terminal in the recess in the plastic holder. (17) Place the nylon washer on the bronze terminal and Install the lockwasher and attaching screws. (18) Install the ground brush and attaching screw. (19) Rotate the pulley slowly by'hand to be sure that the rotor fans do not hit the rectifiers, capacitor lead, and stator connections. (20) Install the alternator and adjust the drive belt according to the Instructions in "ACCESSORY BELT DRIVE" Group 7A of this Service Manual. (21) Connect the output "RAT" and the field "FLD" leads and connect the ground wire. (22) Connect the battery ground cable. (23) Start and operate the engine, and observe the alternator operation. (24) Test the surrent output and regulator voltage setting, if necessary. IGNITION SYSTEM The ignition system consists of two separate circuits. The battery, ammeter, ignition switch, ballast resistor, primary winding of the ignition coil, distributor contacts and condenser, vehicle frame, and the primary wiring make up the low voltage primary circuit. The secondary high voltage circuit includes the coil secondary winding, the distributor cap and rotor, the spark plug cables, "he spark plugs and the vehicle frame. SECONDARY CIRCUIT INSPECTION The coil to distributor cap wire and the spark plug wires should make good, clean contact in the ignition coil, the distributor cap towers and on the spark plugs. Wires that are loose or are not inserted all the way into the towers or on the plugs will corrode and increase the resistance as well as cause carbon tracking of the coil or cap towers. The ignition coil tower, if oily or dirty, should be wiped clean and inspected for cracks, carbon tracking or oil leaks. Replace the coil if faulty. Inspect the distributor cap for oil film, dirt or metal particles on the inside surface. Any contamination, however slight, can become conducting and cause hard starting in wet weather. Thoroughly wash the cap in a weak solution of liquid soap or detergent in warm water. Do not use a concentrated solution or soak the cap in the solution. Scrub the inner surfaces with a stiff bristle nylon brush to clean between the ribs and the crevices. Rinse well in hot water, shake out excess of water and dry thoroughly. Do not use compressed air to dry or blow out the water. Carefully inspect for cracks or carbon tracking on the inner or outer surfaces. Replace the cap it faulty. The secondary cables, cap and rotor should be tested, using Tool C This tester provides high voltage which is sufficient for testing secondary insulation. Test the resistance of the spark plug cables. Replace the cable if resistance is more than 30,000 ohms. Replace the cable if the terminal has pulled off.

40 8-40 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS NOTE: Pulling the wires to disconnect them from the plugs can stretch them and increase secondary resistance. To remove the wire, grasp the boot at the end of the wire and rotate the boot slightly to break the adhesion between it and the spark plug insulator. The rotor and distributor cap electrodes should be Inspected for burning. Replace the rotor if the electrode is burned on the top or if the electrode is worn too short. DISTRIBUTOR RESISTANCE TEST This test Indicates the resistance of the ignition primary circuit from the distributor side of the coil, through the points and the distributor ground. Excessive resistance in this portion of the ignition system will prevent the coil from producing sufficient output for good over-all ignition. To perform test, proceed as follows: (1) Turn the Selector Switch of a tach-dwell unit to the CALIBRATE position and adjust the Dwell Calibrator until the Dwell Meter reads on the set line (test leads separated). (2) Leave selector Switch in the CALIBRATE position, connect the tach-dwell red lead to the distributor terminal of coil and the black lead to a good ground. (3) Turn ignition switch "ON". Observe dwell meter reading. Meter pointer should be well within the black bar marked "DISTRIBUTOR RESIS TANCE". If reading is zero or outside of black bar, crank the' engine with the starter until the meter pointer moves as far to right as possible. (This will indicate that breaker points are closed.) A reading now within the black indicates a normal distributor primary" circuit. < If the reading is outside the black bar, high resistance is present in the distributor primary circuit. (4) Remove the test lead from the distributor terminal of coil and connect to the following points: (a) Distributor primary terminal (outside) (b) Distributor primary terminal (Inside) (c) Breaker point terminal bracket (Insulated bracket) (d) Ground side of contact points. (e) Distributor housing. (5) Repeat test at each connection until a noticeable change occurs In the meter reading. If a poor connection or faulty lead is indicated, clean, tighten or replace as necessary and repeat test (3). If faulty contact points are indicated, remove distributor for complete inspection, service, testing and calibration. IDLE RPM TEST The engine idle rpm setting should be tested and recorded as it is when the vehicle Is first brought Into the shop for testing. This will assist in diagnosing complaints of engine stalling or complaints of creeping and hard shifting on vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions. Test procedures are as follows: (1) Turn the Selector Switch to the CALIBRATE position and adjust the Dwell Calibrator until the Dwell Meter reads on the SET line (test leads separated). (2) Connect the red lead of the test unit to the distributor primary terminal at the coil and the black lead to a good ground. (3) Turn the Selector Switch to the 8 LOBE position. (4) Turn the tachometer rpm switch to the 1000 rpm position. (5) With the engine at normal operating temperature (off fast idle), momentarily open the throttle and release to make sure there is no bind in the linkage and that the Idle speed screw is against Its stop. (6) Note engine rpm on 100 rpm scale and adjust carburetor Idle speed screw to obtain 550 engine rpm. DISTRIBUTOR POINT DWELL The degrees of distributor dwell are the degrees of rotation through which the breaker contact points remain closed. This is also commonly referred to as "dwell angle" or "cam angle". The correct distributor point dwell Is essential for good Ignition performance and contact point life. Test procedures are as follow: (1) Connect the Tach-Dwell red lead to the distributor terminal of coil and black lead to a good ground. (2) Turn the Selector Switch to the 8 LOBE position. (3) Start the engine and operate at 550 rpm. (4) Observe the dwell meter reading. If the dwell reading is within "Specifications", the point gap, cam rubbing block and breaker arm are all in satisfactory condition. If the dwell reading is not within specifications, incorrect point gap, worn cam, worn rubbing block or distorted breaker arm may be indicated. DUAL BREAKER POINTS Block one set of contacts with a clean insulator and

41 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 841 adjust the opposite set of contacts 27 to 32 degrees on the dwell meter. NOTE: Loosen the stationary contact lock screw just enough, so that the stationary contact can be moved with a slight drag; otherwise it will be difficult to set the contacts accurately. When the one set of contacts has been adjusted for the correct clearance, tighten the stationary contact lock screw. Block the adjusted set of contacts with an insulator and adjust the remaining set of contacts in the same manner as the first set 27 to 32 degrees. Eemove insulator and recheck tightness of the stationary contact lock screw. If the contacts have been properly adjusted, the dwell should be 34 to 40 degrees for both sets of points. DWELL VARIATION This test indicates'the mechanical condition of the distributor. Excessive wear in distributor mechanical parts cause dwell variations which will affect ignition timing. Test procedures are as follows: (1) With the engine at idle speed, the vacuum hose disconnected, and with the test leads connected as in Paragraph, "Point Dwell Test", turn the Tachometer rpm Switch to the 5000 rpm position. (2) Slowly increase the engine speed to 1500 rpm, then slowly reduce to idle speed while observing the dwell meter reading. If the dwell reading varies more than 2 degrees from initial reading between idle speed and 1500 rpm, probable wear in the distributor shaft, bushings or breaker plate is indicated. Remove distributor tor complete inspection and testing on a distributor tester. NOTE: Dwell variation at speeds above 1500 rpm does not necessarily indicate distributor wear. IMPORTANT Dwell and gap of the points must both be within their specified tolerance at the same time. If this cannot be accomplished, it is probable that wrong points are installed or the cam lobes are badly worn. IGNITION TIMING To obtain maximum engine performance, the distributor must be correctly positioned on the engine to give the proper ignition timing. The ignition timing test will indicate the timing of the spark at No. 1 cylinder at idle (only), Test procedures are as follows: (1) Disconnect the vacuum hose at the distributor. (2) Connect the secondary lead to the Power Timing Light to No. 1 spark plug, red primary lead to positive terminal of battery and black primary lead to the negative battery terminal. NOTE: Do not puncture the wires, boots or nipples with test probes. Always use adapters. Puncturing spark plug wires with a probe will damage the wires. The probe can separate the conductor of linen cord impregnated with carbon and cause high resistance. In addition, breaking the rubber insulation may permit secondary current to arc to ground. (3) Start the engine and set the idle to rpm, engine at normal operating temperature (transmission in neutral). (4) Using a timing light, observe the position of timing mark on the crankshaft damper and check against the specifications. (5) Loosen the distributor hold down lock plate screw and rotate the distributor housing so that the specified timing mark on damper aligns with the specified "BTC" mark on the timing plate. Moving the distributor "clockwise" advances the timing and "counterclockwise" retards the timing. (6) Tighten the distributor hold down lock plate screw after the timing has been set and recheck the timing adjustment with a Power Timing Light. (7) When the ignition timing is correct, connect the vacuum hose to the distributor. NOTE: As the engine speed is increased, the timing mark should move down on the vibration dampener below the pointer if advance units are functioning. SEE?ICE PHOCEDUBES DISTRIBUTOR a. Removal (1) Disconnect the vacuum hose at the distributor. (2) Disconnect the primary lead wire at the coil. (3) Unfasten the distributor cap retaining clips and lift off the distributor cap. (4) Scribe a mark on the edge of the distributor

42 842 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 62x326 Fig. 78 Shaft and Bushing Wear Test housing to indicate the position of the rotor as reference when reinstalling the distributor. (5) Eemove the distributor hold-down clamp screw and the clamp. (6) Carefully lift the distributor from the engine. b. Shaft and Bushing Wear Test (1) Remove the distributor rotor. (2) Clamp the ribbed section of the distributor housing lightly in a vise equipped with soft jaws and attach the dial indicator to the body of the distributor with the indicator plunger arm resting against the moveable breaker arm with the rubbing block of the breaker arm on the highest point of the cam lobe (Fig. 78). (8) Place one end of a wire loop around the top of the distributor shaft. Hook a spring scale in the other end of the wire loop and pull on a line with the plunger of the indicator gauge. Be sure the wire loop on the shaft end is down on the shaft to insure a straight pull and also that the wire loop does not Interfere with the indicator or holding bracket. Apply a five pound pull and read the movement of the plunger on the indicator dial. (Be sure the rubbing block of breaker arm is on the highest point of the cam lobe during this test). If the plunger movement exceeds.006 inch, replace the bushings and/or distributor shaft, see "Distributor Disassembly". c. Disassembly (Figs. 79 and 80) (1) Remove the distributor rotor. NOTE: The distributor cap clamp springs on Chrysler built distributors are held in place by peened metal around the openings and should not be removed. (2) Remove the retainer attaching the vacuum advance unit to the breaker plate advance arm. (3) Remove the two screws and lockwashers attaching the vacuum advance unit to the distributor housing and remove the unit. (4) Remove the primary lead wire and rubber grommet as an assembly. Push the grommet towards the inside of distributor to remove. Do not pull the wire. (5) Remove the two screws and lockwashers attaching the breaker plate to the housing and lift out the breaker plate, points and condenser as an assembly. (6) Remove the oil wick from the distributor cam (Fig. 81), Remove the spring clip from the oil well in the cam and remove the cam and yoke assembly and spacer. If the side play exceeds.006 Inch In the "Shaft and Bushing Wear Test", replace the bushings and/ or distributor shaft as follows: (a) Remove the distributor drive collar retaining pin and slide the collar off the end of the shaft. (b) Use a fine file to clean the burrs from around the pin hole in the shaft and remove the lower thrust washer. (c) Push the shaft up and remove it through the top of the distributor body. Remove the upper thrust washer.

43 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 843 Fig. 79 Distributor Disassembled View (Chrysler Built)

44 844 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS FELT CAM - YOKE I±^==5<- CONTACT SET SPRING CLIP 61xl56A Fig. 81 Removing the Distributor Cam Felt Wick (f) Soak the new bushings in light engine oil for approximately 15 minutes. ^ WEIGHT - 5HAFT BEARING ^. CLAMP. LOCKWASHER SCREW HOUSING CLAMP WASHER SCREW ^ '^T^ i. LOCKRING WASHER X',* SCREW v"^~ ^ VACUUM CHAMBER OILER BUSHING WASHER ' COLLAR SPRING X/ ^ WASHER "*> GASKET - Jf'jL PLUG - - ' Fig. 80 Distributor Disassembled View (Auto-Lite) 60x697A Fig. 82 Removing the Distributor Housing Upper Bushing (d) Eemove the shaft oiler and lift out the oiler wick. CAUTION On Chrysler Built distributors, do not drive the bushings out of the housing. (e) Remove the upper bushing with Tool C-3744 (Fig. 82) by threading the tap securely into the bushing. Place the spacer over the tap. Install the tool nut and, while holding the tap, tighten the tool nut to remove the bushing. Invert the housing and remove the lower bushing in the same manner. On AutoLite built distributors, place the housing in an arbor press and press out the upper and lower bushings from the bottom of the housing using Driver Tool C TOOL (DRIVER) PRESS RAM TOOL (ADAPTER) 61x151 Fig. 83 Installing the Distributor Housing Upper Bushing

45 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 845 (g) Position, the- new upper bushing with the hole in the bushing up and in line with the oil hole in the housing, then press the bushing into the distributor housing with Tool C-3041 and adapter (Fig. 83). The bushing will measure.094 inch below the top of the housing bore for AutoLite distributors. For the Chrysler built distributors use Tool C-3041 with the flat face of adapter contacting the bushing then press the bushing into the distributor until top of bushing is inches from top machined face of distributor housing. Place a straight-edge on machined surface of housing and measure from the bottom face of the straight-edge to the top of the bushing. Invert the housing and install the other bushing (Fig. 84) flush with the face of the distributor base. (h) Insert a %2 inch rod through the housing oi l er hole to see if the hole in the bushing indexes with the oiler hole in the housing. If the rod cannot be inserted through the housing and the bushing, drill a Vg" hole through the upper bushing by drilling through the oil wick hole. Remove burrs caused by the drilling operation. (i) Install the burnishing tool part of C-3041 Tool set and force the burnisher through both the bushings (Fig. 85). The correct bushing inside the diameter is.4995 to.5000 inch. d. Assembly (1) Test the operation of the centrifugal w r eight and inspect the weight springs for distortion. Lubricate the governor weights. (2) Inspect all the bearing surfaces and pivot pins for roughness, binding or excessive looseness. \3) Install the cam spacer, chamfered end down on the distributor shaft. TOOL (BURNISHER) UPPER BUSHING 61x149 Fig. 85 Burnishing the Distributor Housing Bushings (4) Slide the cam and yoke on the distributor shaft, engage the weight lugs with the slots in the yoke (Fig. 86). Install the cam retaining spring clip. Be sure it is properly seated in the groove of the distributor shaft. (5) Lubricate and install the two concave upper thrust washers for AutoLite distributors or a single flat thrust washer for Chrysler-built distributors. Position the washers on the distributor shaft and slide the shaft into the distributor body. Position the lower thrust washer and drive the collar on the lower end of the shaft. Install the retainer pin. (6) Install the oiler wick and oiler. (7) Install the breaker plate assembly. Align the condenser lead, breaker point spring, primary lead and install the attaching screws. (8) Install the felt wick in the top of the distributor cam. (9) Attach the vacuum advance unit arm to the breaker plate and install the retainer. Install the vacuum unit attaching screws and washers. (10) Test the breaker arm spring tension, and adjust the contact gap. (11) Lubricate the felt pad in the top of the dis- GOVERNOR WEIGHT UPPER THRUST WASHER 61x150 Fig. 84 Installing the Distributor Housing Lower Bushing Fig. 86 Distributor Shaft Assembly

46 8-46 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS Fig. 87 Testing the Breaker Arm Spring Tension tributor cam with 3 to 5 drops of light engine oil and install the rotor. TESTING BREA1ER ABM SPROfG TENSION (1) Hook a spring scale Tool MTU-36 on the breaker arm and pull in a straight line at right angles to the point surfaces (Fig. 87). Take a reading as the points start to separate under the slow and steady pull of the scale. The spring tension should be 17 to 21.5 ounces. If the reading is outside these limits, loosen the screw which holds the end of the breaker arm spring, and slide the end of the spring in or out, as necessary. (2) Tighten the screw and measure the spring tension, NOTE: Spring tension that is too great, will cause excessive wear on the distributor cam and on the nylon block of the movable breaker arm. Spring tension that is too weak, is unable to keep the points in contact with each other when they close. This is particularly true as engine speed is increased, causing high-speed misfiring. INSTALLING AND ALIGNING CONTACT POINTS (1) Remove the old contact points and install a new set. NOTE: Touching the contact point faces with fingers during installation will cause burning of points during operation. (2) Align the contacts to obtain contact in the center of the points, by bending the stationary contact bracket only. Never bend the movable arm to obtain alignment. (3) After aligning the contact points, readjust the point clearance to specifications using a dial Indicator (Fig. 88). (4) Test the dwell angle to show proper degree of closure. See Paragraph, "Distributor Point Dwell". Fig. 88 Adjusting the Point Clearance with a Dial Indicator The lock screw should be loosened just enough so that the stationary bracket can be moved with a slight drag; otherwise, it will be difficult to set the points accurately. After setting the points to correct the gap, tighten the lock screw. DISTRIBUTOR LUBRICATION (1) Add 3 to 5 drops of SAE 10W oil to the oiler on the outside of distributor base. (2) Lubricate the felt pad under the rotor in the top of the distributor cam with 3 to 5 drops of SAE 10W oil. (3) Wipe old grease from surface of the breaker cam. Apply a light film of new distributor cam lubricant number Do not over-lubricate, keep oil and grease away from the breaker points.. TESTING DISTRIBUTOR ADVANCE a. Centrifugal Advance Curve Note the model number of the distributor and refer to the specifications before making this test. Mount the distributor assembly (less cap and rotor) in a reliable stroboscope-type distributor tester and proceed with tests as follows: NOTE; Clamp around the rib section of the distributor housing. The bottom section of the distributor housing Is not a machined surface and concentricity would be affected, causing a wobble. (1) Turn the Tach-Dwell switch to-the 8 "LORE" position and the motor switch to the correct direction of rotation. Refer to "Distributor Advance Specifications" in this manual. (2) Turn the battery switch "ON". (3) Regulate the tester speed control to operate

47 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 847 the distribution at 200 distributor rpm. (4) Hold the distributor breaker plate in the full retard position and align the "0" of the distributor tester degree ring with any one of the arrow flashes. (5) Kegulate the tester speed control to operate the distributor at speeds called for under "Specifications" and observe arrow flashes opposite tester degree ring to determine degrees of advance. (6) If the advance is not according to specifications, corrections can be made by bending the primary and secondary spring on the cam yoke, to increase or decrease the spring tension. The governor spring tabs can be reached through the access hole at the breaker plate. Rotate the shaft until the proper spring and tab lines up with the access holes. Insert a screwdriver blade through the access hole and bend the spring tab toward the distributor cam to decrease spring tension and advance the spark, or away from the distributor cam to increase the spring tension and retard the spark. NOTE: The light tension spring controls the lower end of the advance curve, and the heavier spring controls the upper end of the advance curve. d. Vacuum Diaphragm Leak Test With the distributor mounted in the distributor tester and with the vacuum- unit attached to the distributor, proceed as follows: (1) Place the thumb over the end of the vacuum pump hose and adjust the regulator control knob to give a reading 20 inches with hose closed off to be sure tester hose does not leak. (2) Attach the vacuum pump hose to the tube on the vacuum unit. The vacuum gauge should hold on maximum vacuum obtainable if no leaks exist. (3) Observe the breaker plate while performing the leak test to test response of the breaker plate. There should be instant response to the pull of the diaphragm, moving the plate without a drag or bind. (4) If leakage is indicated, replace the vacuum unit assembly. c. Vacuum Advance Curve Connect the tester vacuum pump hose to the distributor vacuum advance unit and perform operations 1 through 5 under "Centrifugal Advance Curve". Then proceed as follows: (1) Turn the tester vacuum pump "ON". Adjust the vacuum pump regulator to vacuum test specifications. See "Specifications" and observe the arrow flashes on the tester degree ring to determine the degrees of advance. (2) If the vacuum advance is above or below specifications, replace the vacuum advance unit. Retest the vacuum advance curve. MSTALLATION OF DISTRIBUTOR (1) Position the distributor on the engine. Align the rotor with marks previously scribed on the distributor housing. (2) Engage the tongue of the distributor shaft with the slot in the distributor and oil pump drive gear. NOTE: If the engine has been cranked while 'the distributor is removed, it will be necessary to establish the proper relationship between the distributor shaft and the No. 1 piston position as follows: (3) Rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at top of the compression stroke. (4) Rotate the rotor to the position of the number one distributor cap terminal. (5) Lower the distributor into the opening, connect the primary lead and install the distributor cap. Make sure all high tension wires "snap" firmly in thfc cap towers. Install the distributor hold-down clamp screw. Tighten the screw finger tight. (6) Connect the secondary lead of a Power Timing Light to the No. 1 spark plug (using proper adapter). Connect the red primary lead to the positive terminal of the battery and the black primary lead to the negative battery terminal. (7) Start and operate the engine at rpm. Rotate the distributor housing so that the specified timing mark and the pointer are in alignment. (Moving the distributor housing "clockwise" advances the timing and "counterclockwise" retards the timing. (8) Tighten the distributor clamp screw after the timing has been set and recheck the timing adjustment with a Power Timing Light. (9) If the timing is correct, connect the vacuum hose to the distributor and remove the timing light from the engine. SPARK PLUGS Cleaning and Inspection Remove the spark plugs. Examine the firing ends of the plugs for evidence of oil fouling, gas fouling, burned or overheating conditions. Clean and reset the gaps to.035 inch. NOTE: Use new gaskets when Installing the spark plugs, tighten plugs to 30 foot-pounds torque. Inspect the spark plug cables, coil secondary (high

48 8-48 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS tension) cable, nipples and cups for cracks, wear and fraying. Always use the neoprene insulating nipples whenever it becomes necessary to replace high tension cables or nipples. Inspect for loose terminals. IGNITION COIL The ignition coil is designed to operate with an external ballast resistor. When testing the coil for output, include the resistor in tests. Inspect the coil for external leaks and arcing. Always make two tests when testing the coil. One when the coil is cold, the other after the coil has been warmed up. Test the coil according to the coil tester manufacturer's instructions. Test the coil primary resistance. Test the ballast resistor resistance. Test the coil secondary resistance. Replace any coil or ballast resistor that does not meet specifications. LIGHTING SYSTEM DUAL HEADLAMPS The dual headlamp system consists of four sealed beam headlamps. The two outer lamps (Fig. 89) are of the two filament type for low and high beam and are marked by a numeral 2 moulded in the lamp lens. The two inner lamps have only one filament and are marked with a numeral 1 molded in the glass. The lamps cannot be installed wrong, as the number one (1) lamps have a two blade terminal connector and the number two (2) lamp has a three blade terminal connector, with a wider spacing than the two blade terminal connector. The number one (1) lamp provides the high intensity "reach" down the highway and the off focus filament in the number 2 lamp provides the "body" light which illuminates the side of the road, ditches, etc. AIMING THE HEADLAMPS a. Pre-Aiming Instructions (1) Test the dimmer switch for faulty operation. (2) Test the high beam indicator: Indicates that high beam is in operation when lighted. (3) For badly rusted or defective headlamp assemblies : These conditions must be corrected before a satisfactory adjustment can be made. (4) Place the vehicle on a level floor. (5) Measure the front suspension height: Adjust to specifications as necessary. (6) Inspect the tire inflation. (7) Rock the vehicle sideways to allow the vehicle to assume its normal position. (8) If the gasoline tank is not full, place a weight in the trunk of vehicle to simulate the weight of the gasoline normally carried in the tank (6*4 pounds per gallon). (9) There should be no other load in the vehicle other than the driver or a substituted weight of approximately 150 pounds placed in the driver's position. (10) Remove the headlamp front trim panel. Do not remove the seal beam retainer rims. (11) Thoroughly clean the headlamp lenses. (12) Measure the aimer calibration. b. Compensating and Mounting the Aimers (1) For mechanical aim the slope of the floor should be known. (2) Place the transit on the floor in line with a vertical center line of the right front wheel (Fig. 90). Place the split image target in like position at the right rear wheel. (3) Adjust the range screw on the transit until the target split image coincides or merges into one unbroken line. I I^DUMnU OUTBOARD Fig. 89 Headlamp Arrangement (Typical) 59X430

49 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 849 Fig. 90 Determining the Slope of the Floor (Typical) NOTE: Make sure that the line of sight is perpendicular from the eye to the viewing port of the transit and that target image is centered in the viewing port of the transit. (4) Turn the dial on the side of the transit until the bubble in the spirit level is centered. (5) When the bubble is centered, note "plus" or "minus" reading on the compensator scale. This figure indicates the degree of slope of the floor and must be transferred to each aimer as follows: (6) With a screwdriver, turn the adjusting slot of the floor level compensator in each aimer, until the correct plus or minus figure (or fractional part) appears in the proper window (Fig. 91). TESTING AIMER FOR CALIBRATION {Fig. 92) (1) Using a carpenter or stcne mason level of known accuracy., locate a true vertical plate glass window or smooth surface. (2) Sez the DOWN-UP pointer :m DOWN 2. Fig. 92 Inspecing the Aimer for Calibration (3) Set the RIGHT-LEFT pointer and the floor level compensator at "0". (4) Secure the aimers to the glass or smooth surface three to five feet apart so that the split image targets can be located in the viewing ports. (5) If the bubble is centered in the vial, the vertical calibration is correct. If the bubble is not centered, make the down-up adjustment by rotating level adjusting screw, until the bubble is centered in the spirit level. (6) The horizontal aim is correct if the targets on opposite aimers are aligned in the viewing ports. If the targets are not aligned in the viewing ports, rotate the mirror adjusting screw until the target split image becomes aligned. c. Mounting and Adjusting the Aimers (Fig. 93) (1) While holding an aimer in alignment with the lens of one outer headlamp, bring the aimer up to and against the headlamp lens. NOTE: Make certain that the headlamp lens pads Fig. 91 Adjusting the Floor Level Compensator in the Aimers Fig. 93 Mounting and Adjusting the Aimers (Typical)

50 8-50 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS are making full contact with the aimer mounting flange and that the aimer target Is facing inboard, (2) Push the release lever forward (to expel air from the suction cup) and while holding the aimer firmly against the headlamp aiming pads, slowly pull the release lever back until the spring lock engages in the slot. (3) Mount the second aimer on the other outer headlamp, in the same manner. (4) On each aimer, set the pointer to the numeral 2 on the DOWN side of the DOWN UP scale. (5) On each aimer position the pointer of the RIGHT LEFT scale at ZERO.. TESTING HEADLAMP AIM Follow the instructions as outlined in Paragraph "Aiming the Headlamps" and proceed as follows: NOTE; Do not remove the headlamp rims. a. Horizontal Test Turn the RIGHT LEFT scale knob until the split image is in alignment. If the RIGHT or LEFT portion of the scale exceeds the following values, the lamps should be aimed. Values given represent inches at 25 feet. RIGHT LEFT No. 1 UNIT 4 4 No, 2 UNIT 4 0 b. Vertical Test Turn DOWN-UP scale knob until the spirit level is Fig. 94 Headlamp Adjustment Points (Chrysler) Fig. 95 Headlamp Adjustment Points (Imperial) centered. If DOWN or UP portion of the scale exceeds the following values, the lamps should be aimed. DOWN UP No. 1 UNIT 44 to S% 0 No. 2 UNIT % to 31/2 0 ADJUSTING THE HEADLAMPS (Figs. 94 and 95) a. Horizontal Adjustment! (1) With the pointer of the RIGHT-LEFT Scale still set at ZERO, sight through the aimer viewing port. Make sure that the line of sight is perpendicular from the eye to the viewing port of the aimer and that the target image is centered in the viewing port of the aimer. (2) While sighting through the viewing port of the aimer, turn the horizontal adjusting screw (Figs. 94 and 95) on the headlamp until the split image target line merges into one unbroken line. To remove the backlash, be sure to make a find adjustment by turning the headlamp horizontal adjusting screw in a clockwise direction. (3) Make the horizontal adjustment on the other outboard headlamp in the same manner. (4) Remove the aimers, from the outboard headlamps, by releasing the spring lock at the rear (bottom) of the aimer and pushing the release lever forward. Do not attempt to remove the aimers by pulling them away from the headlamp lens slide the suction cup downward and away from the lens. b. Vertical Adjustment (1) Turn the vertical adjusting screw on the headlamp in a counter-clockwise direction to bring the bubble of the spirit level on the aimer to the vehicle side of center. Use care to avoid disturbing the installed position of the aimers. Then turn the

51 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-51 screw clockwise until the bubble is centered for correct aim and elimination of backlash. (2) Make the vertical adjustment on the other outer unit in the same manner. (3) Recheck the target alignment on each side and readjust the horizontal aim, if necessary. Proceed to adjust the inner units by following the instructions as outlined for the outer headlamps. Install the headlamp trim panels, when the adjustments have been performed. HEADLAMP SEALED-BEAM REPLACEMENT Lens, filament and reflector are sealed into one unit which can be removed as follows: (1) Remove the screws from the headlamp panel and remove the panel. (2) Remove the screw from the interior retaining ring, and remove the ring. NOTE: Do not disturb the headlamp aiming screws. (3) Pull out the sealed-beam unit and disconnect the connector, pulling it straight off. (4) Install the new sealed-beam unit. (5) Install the unit retaining ring and headlamp panel. NOTE: Each lamp in the dual headlamp assembly can be removed in the above manner. HOINS TESTING (Horns "A" and "B") Touch a jumper wire from relay "S" terminal to a.ground. If the horn blows, the difficulty is in the horn button contact ring or in the wire from "S" terminal to the horn button. If the horn fails to blow, connect a jumper wire from "B" to "H" terminal, now if the horns operate, the relay is defective. If the horns fail to operate, the difficulty is in the wire to the horns, in the horns or wire to horn relay "B*' terminal. ADJUSTING Horn "A" (1) Disconnect the connections at each horn to determine which horn is not operating. (2) Remove the horn and bracket assembly. Do not remove the horn from the bracket. (The bracket is retained to the horn by a self-threading screw.) (3) Pry the cover off (Fig. 96). (4) Turn the adjusting nut counter-clockwise until there is no vibration (sound). (5) Turn the adjusting nut clockwise, approximately turn at a time until the tone has a clear mellow sound. Do not turn nut while horn is blowing. NOTE: The adjustment will only clear up the sound and cannot change the horn tone frequency. (6) Check the horn wire leads, make sure they are securely wrapped on the horn solenoid coil leads (Fig. 97). If the lead wires are loose, solder them securely to the coil leads. Use resin core solder. (7) Check the horn contacts. If the contacts are badly burned, check the resistor for continuity. If RESISTOR ADJUSTMENT STUD NUT 62x437 62x435 TERMINAL Fig. 96 Removing the Cover (Horn "A" Fig. 97 Cover Removed (Horn "A")

52 8-52 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS the contacts are separated, when the adjusting nut is removed from the adjusting stud; the contacts have taken a permanent set and horn should be replaced. (8) Connect a test ammeter between the positive post of a 12 volt battery and the horn terminal post. Connect a jumper lead from the negative battery post to the horn base. Turn the adjusting screw to obtain a reading of eight amperes minimum to ten amperes maximum at 12.5 volts. Must not exceed ten amperes maximum. Horn "B" (1) Disconnect the connections at each horn to determine which horn is not operating. (2) Remove the horn and bracket assembly. Do not remove the horn from the bracket. (The bracket is retained to the horn by a self-threading screw). (3) Turn the tone adjuster with a suitable spanner wrench (Fig. 98) to turning it counter-clockwise until there is no vibration (sound). (4) Turn the adjusting nut clockwise, approximately 14 turn at a time until the tone has a clear mellow sound. Do not turn adjuster while horn is blowing. Fig. 98 -Adjusting the Horn ("B") NOTE: The adjustment will only clear up the sound and cannot change the horn tone frequency. (5) Connect a test ammeter between the positive post of a 12 volt battery and horn terminal post. Connect a jumper lead from the negative battery post to the horn base. Turn the adjusting screw to obtain a reading of six amperes minimum to eight amperes maximum at 12.5 volts. Must not exceed eight amperes maximum. ELECTHIC LOCKING DOOl LOC1S (SY-1 ONLY) The electric door lock is operated by a push-pull double acting solenoids attached by a connecting rod to the door latch locking lever. By pressing the single pole double throw switch mounted on the right and left front door trim panel, a solenoid in each of the four doors is actuated, moving the latch locking lever into the lock or unlock position. All doors may be locked or unlocked either mechanically or electrically. To lock mechanically push the front door handle to the forward position and depress the rear door locking button. To lock electrically depress the switch to lock or lift upward to unlock the doors. SOLENOID a. Removal Remove the door trim panel. Disconnect the lock to solenoid connecting rod at the solenoid. Disconnect wires and remove solenoid. b. Installation Fasten the solenoid to the door and connect up the wires. Tighten the solenoid mounting screws finger tight. Reconnect the lock connecting the rod to the solenoid. Adjust the solenoid by moving up or down in the slotted holes, so that the solenoid will push and pull the lever far enough to accomplish locking and unlocking. Reinstall the trim panel. ELECTRIC WINDOW LIFTS A master switch group, on the left front door, op- breakers are above the left front cowl panel. The erates all the windows and the individual switches normal operating amperage draw per window is 12 are located on their respective doors. The circuit to 16 amperes for all models.

53 SERVICE PROCEDURES ELEC7TRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-53 a. Removal (1) Disconnect the battery and remove the garnish molding. (2) Remove the door trim panel and disconnect the wires from switch. (3) Remove the clips from the regulator pins holding the lower glass channel. (4) Raise the glass manually and prop in the up position. (5) Remove the regulator attaching screws, pivot the guide retaining pin and remove the motor and regulator through the opening in the door. (6) If it is necessary to replace the gear box, remove the regulator counter-balance spring. NOTE: Be sure to remove the counter-balance spring before disassembling the gear box. - The gear box is replaced as an assembly only and is lubricated at assembly. No further lubrication is required. b. Installation (1) Place the motor and regulator through the door opening and insert the pivot arm pin into the guide on the inner panel. (2) Install the regulator screws finger tight. DO NOT tighten at this time. (3) Remove the window prop and lower the glass. (4) Insert the control arms into the glass channel, using a leather washer on each side of the channel and secure with a clip. (5) Connect the wires to the motor and connect the battery. (6) Operate-the window several times and stop the glass halfway. (7) Tighten the regulator screws. (8) Check the glass alignment. (9) Connect an ammeter into the electrical circuit and operate the window. The ammeter reading should be constant without fluctuation as follows: approximately 14 amperes, all models except rear doors of four-door hard top models, and approximately 20 amperes for the rear doors of the fourdoor hard top models. If the ammeter reading fluctuates, there is a bind in the glass or in the linkage. The down stop should be adjusted so that the window is flush with the garnish moulding. Install the trim panel, garnish molding, and other parts. The power seat can be moved six ways forward, backward, upward, downward and tilt. The horizontal travel is five inches and horizontal plane of POWER SEATS seat track is inclined eleven degrees. The vertical travel is one inch at front and two inches at rear. TRACK \ SLAVE UN'I KNOB- WASHER PIN [COTTER PIN w ^ O R SCREW AND WASHER RELAY COUPLING LEVER AND SHAFT PIN CABLE- DRIVE UNIT COVER GUARD ^ S P R N G PLATE STOP CABLE 58x297A TUBE " Fig. 99 Power Seat Arrangement

54 8-54 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS The available tilt is 8 degrees forward and 7 1 / degrees rearward from neutral. OPERATION The motor operates a gear drive train which supplies power to the slave units,, located in the seat tracks, through flexible cables (Fig. 99). The control switch is on the left side of front seat and is wired through a relay to a 40 ampere circuit breaker, located next to the window lift circuit breakerabove the left cowl panel. The wire from the bulkhead disconnect supplies power to the circuit breaker. On vehicles equipped with electric window lifts the power is supplied by a brass jumper parallel with the window lift circuit breakers. Power is supplied to the relay from the circuit breaker. Six wires go to the switch. One used for power, two for motor field current, which also actuates the relay for motor armature current and three wires attach to solenoids controlling the movement of the front riser, rear riser and horizontal movement. The right and left tracks are each replaced as an assembly only. They cannot be adjusted and are not interchangeable. FRONT SEAT ASSEMBLY AND ADJUSTER a. Removal (1) Disconnect the battery ground cable. (2) Remove the four mounting stud nuts which hold the front seat to the adjuster and tilt the complete seat back assembly forward. (3) Disconnect the control wires at the 6-way connector. Fig. 100 Removing the Left Guide and Drive Assembly Fig. 101 Removing the Drive Assembly from the Left Slave Unit (Typical) (4) Remove the front seat and cushion assembly. (5) Disconnect the seat adjuster red feed wire. (6) Remove the seat guide attaching stud nuts and remove the adjuster. b. Installation (1) Install the adjuster and stud nuts. (2) Reconnect the seat adjuster red feed wire. (3) Install the front seat and cushion assembly. (4) Reconnect the control wires to the switch and tighten the mounting stud nuts securely. (5) Reconnect the battery ground cable. FLEHBLE CABLES a. Removal (1) Remove the front seat and cushion assembly. (2) Disconnect the red feed wire. (3) Remove the retainer plate that holds the right side tubes to the drive assembly. (4) Remove the left seat guide attaching stud nuts and remove the guide and the drive assembly (Fig. 100). NOTE: Be careful not to bend or damage the right side tubes when sliding the tubes out of the drive assembly. (5) Pull the flexible cables from the right side tubes. (6) Remove the bolts that hold the motor and drive assembly to the left guide bracket. (7) Remove the drive assembly with tubes from the left slave unit (Fig. 101). (8) Remove the flexible cables from the tubes. b. Installation

55 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-55 "DRIVE CABLES 58x189 Fig. 102 installing the Cable Tubes in the Slave Unit CAUTION The seat guides should be in the up and forward position when installing the cable. Make sure both guides are at the same position (in alignment). (1) Place the three left cable tubes into the left slave unit (Fig. 102). (2) With the shortest tube on the inside and longest on the outside, install the flexible cables in the tubes. Make sure the cables seat in the slave unit. (3) Position the drive unit on the left side tubes. Make sure the flexible cables seat in the slot in the drive unit. (4) Bolt the drive unit to the guide bracket. (5) Place the right side flexible cables in the right side tubes. (6) Position the left guide and drive assembly on the right side tubes. Make sure the cables seat in the drive assembly. (7) Install the right side tubes retainer plate. (8) Bolt the left guide assembly to the floor. (9) Install the seat and cushion assembly. (10) Reconnect the red feed wire and check the operation of the seat. MOTOR ASSEMBLY a. Removal (1) Disconnect the motor wires at the relay. (2) Remove the two nuts holding the motor to the drive unit. (3) Remove the motor from the drive unit and rubber coupling. (4) Remove the relay from the motor. b. Installation DRIVE ASSEMBLY SOLENOID COIL SPRINGS COIL GROUND WIRE COIL PLATE 58x749A INSULATING WASHER Fig. 103 Solenoid and Coil (Disassembled View)

56 8-56 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS SLAVE UNIT IB/ 0 INSULATING ^ / WASHER PLATE SCREW HORIZONTAL RISER CABLE Fig. 104 Seat Track and Motor (Disassembled View) 58x750A (1) Install the relay on the motor. (2) Install the rubber coupling on the motor shaft (Fig. 103). (3) Align the rubber coupling with the slot on the slave unit shaft. (4) Install the motor and reconnect the wires to the relay. b. Assembly (1) Install the clutch lever and shaft. Make sure the lever is properly seated on the drive collar. (2) Install the cover and screws. (3) Install the coil in the coil cover with the coil ground wire next to one of the cover tabs. DRIVE UNIT AND SOLING ASSEMBLY a. Disassembly (1) Remove the drive unit from the seat assembly. Refer to, "Removal and Installation of Flexible Cables". (2) Remove the two screws holding the plate and solenoids to the drive unit (Fig. 104). (3) Remove the plate and solenoid assembly. Be careful not to lose the three springs under the solenoid. (4) To remove the solenoid coils, bend back on the tabs of the solenoid cover. Unsolder the coil ground wire at the cover tab and remove the coil cover from the coil. (5) Remove the screws holding the cover on the drive unit. (6) Remove the cover and lift out the clutch lever and shaft. HORIZONTAL FRONT REAR RACK* SLAVE UNIT CAP RACK RACK SEAT GUIDE CLEVIS PIN 58x748 FRONT RACK CLEVIS PIN-. GUIDE Fig. 105 Removing the Sleeve Unit ASSY.

57 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-57 (4) Position the cover tabs in the slots on the coil plate. (5) Bend over the tabs and resolder the coil ground wire to the tab and plate. (6) Install the three solenoid springs and position the solenoids over the springs. (7) Fasten the solenoids to the drive unit. (8) Install the drive unit. Refer to "Removal and Installation of Flexible Cables". SLAVE UNIT a. Removed (Fig. 105) (1) Remove the drive unit and the cables. Refer to "Removal and Installation of Flexible Cables". The seat guide should be in the up and forward position. (2) Remove the long clevis pin from the front of the guide (Fig. 106). (3) Remove the front rack clevis pin. (4) To facilitate the removal of the slave unit, remove the slave unit cap. NOTE: Be careful not to lose the springs under the cap. The springs are between the racks and the slave cap. (5) Remove the nuts holding the slave unit to the guide. (6) Remove the slave unit. b. Installation (1) Position the slave unit over the studs on the guide base. (2) Position the racks in the slave unit so they will be in the up and forward position. (3) Fasten the racks to the guide assembly. (4) Position the springs on the racks and install the slave unit cap. (5) Install the slave unit mounting nuts. (6) Install the front guide clevis pin (Fig. 106). (7) Install the cables in their slots and try operation of guide. Install drive unit and cables. Refer to "Removal and Installation of Flexible Cables". WINDSHIELD WIPEES The single speed wiper motor (Fig. 107) is connected to the wiper switch and from the wiper switch "B" terminal to the "ACC" accessory terminal of the ignition-starter switch so that the wiper motor is actuated only when the ignition switch key is turned to the right or left position. The variable speed wiper motor (Fig 107 and 108) is connected from the wiper motor to the wiper switch and from a circuit breaker to the ignition switch. Refer to the "Wiring Diagrams" at the back of this Electrical Group. The single speed wiper motor is protected by a circuit breaker built into the wiper switch. The variable speed motor is protected by a circuit breaker which is attached to the "B" terminal of the switch. The variable speed motor has an "off glass parking" feature which is accomplished by reversing the motor and the use of parking cams at the pivot pins of the intermediate crank arm. When the switch is turned to the "off" position, the motor reverses direction and at the same time the parking cams rotate 180 degrees, lengthening the linkage slightly to park the blades against the windshield moulding. The linkage shortens when the motor runs in the wiping direction. WIPER BLADE ADJUSTMENT To proper position the wiper blades, adjust the motor switch plate so that the blades park as low as possible. Loosen the blade arms at the pivots. Position the blades against the windshield moulding on the variable speed motors and tighten the pivot attaching nuts. Position the blades of the single speed motors one inch from the windshield moulding.

58 8-58 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS Fig. 107 Windshield Wiper Variable and Single Speed (Disassembled)

59 SEBVICE PHOCEDUHES ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-59 WINDSHIELD WIPERS Removal (1) Remove the glove compartment door. (2) Remove the glove compartment. (3) Remove the nuts attaching the wiper motor bracket to the cowl panel and to the instrument panel brace. (4) Disconnect the wires at the wiper motor. (5) Disconnect the links at the pivot cranks. The clips are removed by lifting the top tab and sliding it sideways out of engagement with the groove in the pivot crank pin. (6) Remove the spacing washer and remove the link from the pivot crank. (7) Slide the complete wiper with the links far enough towards the left so that the right hand link will clear the glove compartment opening in the instrument panel and remove assembly, as shown in Figure 109. Use care so as not to bend the links. DISASSEMBLY OF THE LINES (1) Remove the clip holding the left-hand link to the crank arm. (2) Remove the bevel washers and the link. (3) Remove the parking cam and the spring release. (4) Remove the coil spring by spreading the ends of the spring. (5) Disassemble the right-hand link in the same manner after removing the crankarm to lever nut and the spacing washers between the link crank arm and lever. DISASSEMBLY OF THE WIPER MOTOR a. Single Speed Motor (1 So Equipped) (1) Remove the switch plate first. (2) Remove the motor crank nut, washers and motor crank arm. (3) Lift out the nylon gear, noting position of the gear. (4) Remove the end head through bolts and carefully pull off the end head. The armature can then be removed. b. Variable Speed Motor (1) Remove the end head through bolts and pull out the end head using care so as not to break the lead wire to the brush holder. (2) Remove the switch plate and the cover screws. (3) Remove the crank arm nut, washers, crank arm, gear and armature in that order. INSPECTION (1) Thoroughly inspect the motor parts for wear, corrosion or damage. (2) Clean the armature commutator with 00 or 000 sandpaper or if necessary, turn down the commutator. (3) Replace worn or oil soaked brushes. (4) Check the armature and crankshaft in their respective bushings and replace worn parts if any looseness is detected. The end play in the armature shaft is controlled by a thin thrust washer in the end plate. AIMATUiE SPECIAL CHUCK Fig. 109 Removing the Windshield Wiper Motor and Link Assembly (Typical) UNDERCUTTING TOOL Fig. 110 Refacing the Commutator 45x1019

60 8-60 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS (5) Inspect the gears for worn or broken teeth and replace those showing damage or excessive wear. 1EFAC1NG COMMUTATOR If the armature commutator is rough or out of round, burned or the bakelite material is even with or extends above the surface of the commutator bars, the commutator should be turned down. Eemove only enough metal to provide a clean smooth surface. Operation can be performed on a suitable lathe or by using Tool C-770, as shown in Fig UNDERCUTTING BAKELITE Undercut the bakelite segments to a depth of % 6 inch, using Tool C-770 with special blade SP-839, as shown in Figure 111. Be sure to undercut the bakelite squarely. After undercutting, polish the commutator with 00 or 000 sandpaper to remove burred edges. CAUTION: Be sure the commutator is clean and free from oil or grease. A dirty, greasy commutator will cause a high resistance and greatly impair the efficiency of the wiper. WINDSHIELD WIPER SWITCH a. Single Speed Motor (If So Equipped) The switch contains a built-in circuit breaker to protect the motor and is serviced only as an assembly. To test the switch, refer to the proper wiring diagram at the back of the "Electrical Group," disconnect the lead wires and remove the switch from the instrument panel. Connect a test lamp between the "B" terminal of the switch and the negative battery post. Connect a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the "P" terminal of the switch. The lamp should light when the switch is in the "off" position and go out when the switch is turned to the "on" position. Fig. 112 End Play Adjustment Connect the positive battery to the "R" terminal of the switch. The lamp should light when the switch is turned "on" and go out when turned "off." b. Variable Speed Motor The switch contains a bar resistance plate which provides a means of controlling the amount of current flow to the motor field as the switch control shaft is rotated. In addition, the switch is designed to provide a circuit to the motor to reverse the direction of the current to the field winding thus providing a means of reversing the armature. A separate circuit breaker is attached to the "B" terminal of the switch to protect the motor. To test the switch, refer to the proper wiring diagram at the back of the "Electrical Group," disconnect the lead wires and remove the switch. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the case of the switch and another jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the "FI" terminal of the switch. Connect a test lamp between the battery negative terminal and the "B" terminal of the switch. Lamp should light when switch is turned on and gradually dim as switch is turned "off." The switch is turned "off." The switch is serviced only as an assembly. END PLAY ADJUSTMENT To adjust the armature shaft end play turn the adjustment screw in until it bottoms and back off ^ turn (Fig. 112). Fig. 111 Undercutting the Bakelite BENCH TESTING MOTOR before bench testing a motor, the lead wires should be inspected for opens or shorts, and for poor connections at the switch plate.

61 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-61 a. Single Speed Motor (If So Equipped) Connect the battery positive terminal to the wiper motor ground strap. Connect the black and blue wires of the motor to the negative battery terminal. Motor should continue to run. Remove black wire with blue connected. The motor should park. b. Variable Speed Motor Connect the yellow wire to the motor ground strap. Connect the battery positive terminal to the motor ground strap. Connect the red and black wires to the battery negative terminal. The motor should run in the wipe direction. To park the motor, connect the blue and yellow wire to the battery negative terminal. Connect the battery positive terminal to the motor ground strap. Connect the red wire to the motor ground strap. Momentarily touch the black wire to the yellow and blue wire. The motor should park. ASSEMBLY OF WIPER MOTOR Make sure the gear teeth are adequately covered with long fibre grease. The correct indexing of the contact plate (constant speed motor) or the contact follower (variable speed motor) on the nylon gear is important. After the armature, nylon gear, and crank arm are installed, index the contact plate (constant speed motor) on the nylon gear with the slot pointing in the same direction as the motor crank arm. Install the contact follower (variable speed motor) with open end pointing in the same direction as the motor crank arm. ASSEMBLY OF WIPER LINK VARIABLE SPEED Install the spring washer, concave surface toward LINK SPRING TRIP LINK SPRING INTERMEDIATE 55P1070 Fig. 113 Link Spring Trip Installed (Variable Speed) INTERMEDIATE CRANK ARM PARKING CAM (ECCENTRIC) 55?)07} Fig. 114 Link Arm Installed (Variable Speed) the crank arm. Install the crank pivot coil spring on the pivot. Install the spring release. Install the parking cam to index with the spring release and engage the spring ends, between the release and parking cam in the openings at point of index (Fig. 113). If the intermediate crank is held so that the letter "L" is visible, install the cam release so that the letter "L" can be seen from that position. The opposite side will show three letters "R." Install the spring washer, convex surface toward the cam assembly. Install the link arm with the stop projection on the link arm toward the cam assembly. Install the retaining bolts and nut (Fig. 114). Assemble the left link and cam assembly in the same manner locking in place with a clip. WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR INSTALLATION (1) Enter the wiper motor, bracket and links through the glove box opening and attach the link arms to the pivot crank pins. (2) Install the spring washer and lock clips on the crank pins. (3) Install the wiper motor and bracket attaching nuts. Tighten the nuts securely. (4) Adjust the wiper parking position by moving the wiper motor parking switch plate. (5) Connect the wires at the wiper motor. (6) Install the glove compartment and the compartment door. REPLACING WIPER PIVOT Remove the wiper blade. Disconnect the link from the pivot. Remove the pivot retaining plate pivot and gasket. Install a new gasket and pivot. Tighten the retaining nuts securely. Re-install wiper link. Install the wiper arm and blade.

62 8-62 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS ELICTIOLUMINESCENT UGHTING, MSTBUMENTS, GAUGES, AND DIBECTIONAL INDICATORS MODELS SC-L SC-2, SC-3, SY-1 OPERATION Electroluminescent panel lighting used in all Chrysler and Imperial Models, achieves a soft uniform glow that illuminates the panel instruments without objectionable intensity or annoying glare. Light level is adjusted by means of a manually controlled knob. Electroluminescent lighting has no filaments or gases, but instead is composed of laminated layers of material which glow when an alternating current is applied. A typical lamp (Fig. 115) is composed of several layers as follows: (1) A sheet of vitreous enameling steel forms the instrument back. (2) A layer of solid ceramic similar to porcelain is applied to the steel sheet. (3) A layer is then added which has panelescent phosphor suspended in ceramic. (4) A transparent electrically conducting layer is then added. (5) A finish layer of transparent glass coating is sprayed on. This lamp is electrically a condenser. When A/C potential is applied between the steel plate and the transparent electrically conducting layer, the electric field excites the dielectric causing a solid state, which results in visible light. (The phosphorescent surface acts as a dielectric between the two conducting surfaces and it also has the property of glowing when excited by a high frequency high" voltage current.) The layer principle is also applied to the pointers, and, as a result the instrument pointers are a light source in themselves, as are the instrument dials..electroluminescent is powered from a transistor oscillator, which connects the 12 volt D/C to 200 volts A/C at 250 cycles per second. This power pack (Fig. 116) is mounted on the cowl side panel underneath the instrument panel. The main components of the electroluminescent panel lighting is composed of: (1) The A/C power pack. (2) The individual instrument lighting. (3) The connecting wiring. INSTRUMENT CLUSTER AND SPEEDOMETER HEAD a. Removal (Models SC-L SC-2, SC-3) (1) Disconnect the battery ground cable. (2) Remove the steering wheel as described in "Steering" Group 19. (3) Remove the steering jacket tube cover from underside of the jacket tube (Fig. 117). (4) Disconnect all the wires at the terminals before loosening the cluster attaching screw. Disconnect the instrument ground wire. (5) Remove the screws which attach the instrument cluster bezel to the instrument panel. Remove the bezel (Fig. 118). Disconnect the speedometer cable. (6) Loosen the two screws (one on each side of the steering jacket tube) and remove the steering POWER PACK Fig. 115 Electroluminescense Panel Lighting Fig. 116 Power Pack Unit

63 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-63 Fig. 117 Removing the Jacket Tube Cover tube collar (Fig. 119). (7) Remove the two long screw T s and spacers attaching the dome and cluster assembly to the dome support. These screws are located just behind the steering tube collar attaching screws. (See Fig. 119.) (8) Remove the four screws attaching the plastic dome to the instrument panel. (9) Carefully release the base of the dome from the supports at each side and with a pointed instrument, carefully move the dome away from the opening in the instrument panel, so that the top of the dome and cluster can be tipped outward, towards you far enough, in order to reach the parking brake warning lamp socket. NOTE: In some eases where the dome fits tightly in the support, it may he necessary to remove the six (6) slotted machine screws that attach the cluster to the dome. Push the cluster up into the dome, ana Fig. 118 Removing the Instrument Cluster Dome Moulding Fig. 121 Removing the Speedometer Head Assembly

64 8-64 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS the dome can then be carefully compressed to clear the supports on removal. (10) Snap out the brake lamp socket and lamp and remove the dome and cluster assembly from the car, as shown in Fig (11) Remove the four screws and remove the speedometer head assembly (Fig. 121). (12) The plastic dome is attached to the cluster by six slotted machine head screws (Fig. 122). b. Installation (1) Install the speedometer head assembly (Fig. 121). Install and tighten the speedometer to panel attaching screws. (2) Position the instrument cluster in the instrument panel housing and install the parking brake warning lamp in the cluster well socket. (3) Work the dome and cluster carefully into position, entering the right corner of the dome base into the dome supports. Carefully move the assembly with a slight rocking motion until the dome and cluster assembly is in position on the instrument panel. (Springing down slightly on the dome supports will aid the installation.) (4) Install the four screws attaching the plastic dome to the instrument panel. (5) Install the two dome cluster spacers and screws. (Near the steering tube.) (See Fig. 119.) (6) Install the steering tube collar and tighten the two collar attaching screws (Fig. 119). (7) - Connect all the wires disconnected'at the time of removal (including ground). (8) Install the instrument dome molding (Fig. 118). Connect the speedometer cable. Fig. 122 Instrument Panel Cluster (Back View) (9) Install the jacket tube cover and the cover attaching screws (Fig. 117). (10) Install the steering wheel and steering wheel nut. Tighten to 40 foot-pounds torque. Install the horn blowing components, as described in "Steering" Group 19. (11) Connect the battery ground cable. INSTRUMENT Removal (Models SC-L SC-2, SC-3) (1) Disconnect the battery ground cable. (2) Remove the steering jacket tube cover (Fig. 117). (3) Disconnect the wires at the instrument to be replaced (Fig. 122). (4) Oil Pressure Gauge: When removing the oil pressure gauge, remove the ground wire and the two screws from the speedometer dust shield. Loosen the temperature gauge attaching screws. Remove the oil pressure gauge attaching screws. Carefully remove the oil pressure gauge. (5) Ammeter: When removing the ammeter, remove the two screws from the speedometer dust shield. Loosen the fuel gauge attaching screws. Remove the ammeter attaching screws. Carefully remove the ammeter. (6) Fuel Gauge: When removing the fuel gauge, remove the fuel gauge attaching screws, and carefully remove the fuel gauge. (7) Temperature Gauge: When removing the temperature gauge, remove the temperature gauge attaching screws, and carefully remove the temperature gauge. Installation (1) Temperature Gauge: Carefully install the temperature gauge into position, and start the attaching screws. Be sure the pointer does not interfere with the cluster dial. Tighten the attaching screws. (2) Fuel Gauge: Carefully install the fuel gauge, and start the attaching screws. Be sure the pointer does not interfere with the cluster dial. Tighten the attaching screws. (3) Ammeter: When installing the ammeter, be sure the fuel gauge screws are loosened, and the screws are removed from the speedometer dust shield, so that the ammeter may be carefully installed. Start the ammeter attaching screws. Be sure the ammeter pointer is not distorted, and does not interfere with the cluster dial. Tighten the ammeter

65 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-65 attaching screws. Align the fuel gauge, and tighten the fuel gauge attaching screws. Install the speedometer dust shield attaching screws and ground wire. Tighten the screws. (4) Oil Pressure Gauge: When installing the oil pressure gauge, be sure the temperature gauge screws are loosened, and that the speedometer dust shield screws are removed. Carefully install the oil pressure gauge. Be sure the oil pressure gauge pointer is not distorted, and does not interfere with the cluster dial. Install the oil pressure gauge attaching screws and ground wire. Tighten the oil pressure gauge attaching screws. Align the temperature gauge and tighten the attaching screws. Install the speedometer dust shield screws and ground wire, and tighten the screws. (5) Connect the instrument wires. Connect the instrument panelescent lighting wires. (See Fig. 122.) (6) Connect the battery ground cable, and test the instrument operation and lighting. (7) Install the steering jacket tube cover. (See Fig. 117.) INSTRUMENT CLUSTER AND SPEEDOMETER HEAD a. Removal (Models SY-1) (1) Disconnect the battery ground cable. NOTE: If vehicle is equipped with either a heater or air conditioning, or both, it will be necessary to remove the defroster and spot cooler hoses. (2) Disconnect the speedometer cable at the speedometer head. (3) Disconnect the odometer reset cable at the instrument panel cluster. Fig. 124 Instrument Cluster Panel Removed NOTE: To avoid scratching the paint finish on the instrument panel when the instrument cluster is removed, it is recommended that several strips of masking tape be placed on each side of the steering jacket tube. (4) Remove the five screws securing the instrument cluster to the instrument panel. Carefully remove the instrument cluster (Fig. 123) by tilting the lower end of the cluster outward. NOTE: For speedometer or complete cluster removal, disconnect all electrical connections, and disengage the wire harness loom from harness clips and remove the cluster to the work bench for further disassembly (Fig. 124). b. Installation (1) Connect all electrical connections that were disconnected at removal, and engage the wire harness loom securely on the wire harness clips, (2) Carefully install the instrument cluster in position on the instrument panel, and install and tighten the five instrument cluster to instrument panel attaching screws. (3) Connect the speedometer and odometer cables to the instrument panel cluster. Make sure that the speedometer cable is properly retained in the attaching clips provided and that it is free of any sharp bends. NOTE: If vehicle is equipped with either a heater or air conditioning, or both, connect the defroster and spot cooler hoses. (4) Connect the battery ground cable. Fig. 123 Removing the Instrument Cluster Panel INSTRUMENT a. Removal (Models SY-1)

66 8-66 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS (1) Disconnect the battery ground cable. NOTE: The following instruments and switches can be removed and installed from underneath the instrument panel without removing the instrument cluster. If vehicle is equipped with either a heater or air conditioning, or both, it will be necessary to remove the defroster and spot cooler hoses. (2) Disconnect the wires at the instrument to be replaced. (3) Oil Pressure Gauge: Remove the one attaching screw at the outer end holding the oil pressure gauge. Remove the center screw attaching both the oil pressure gauge and ammeter, then carefully remove the oil pressure gauge. (4) Ammeter: Remove the one attaching screw at the outer end holding the ammeter. Remove the center screw attaching both the ammeter and oil pressure gauge, then carefully remove the ammeter. (5) Fuel Gauge: Remove the one attaching screw at the outer end holding the fuel gauge. Remove the center screw attaching both the fuel gauge and the temperature indicator, then carefully remove the fuel gauge. (6) Temperature Indicator: Remove the one attaching screw at the outer end holding the temperature indicator. Remove the center screw attaching both the temperature indicator and the fuel gauge, then carefully remove the temperature indicator. b. Installation (1) Temperature Indicator: Carefully install the temperature indicator in position and start the center fuel gauge and temperature indicator attaching screw, then install the one attaching screw at the outer end. Tighten both attaching screws. Connect the instrument wires. (2) Fuel Gauge: Carefully install the fuel gauge in position and start the center temperature indicator and fuel gauge attaching screw, then install the one attaching screw at the outer end. Tighten both attaching screws. Connect the instrument wires. (3) Ammeter: Carefully install the ammeter in position and start the center ammeter and oil pressure gauge attaching screws, then install the one attaching screw at the outer end. Tighten both attaching screws. Connect the instrument wires. (4) Oil Pressure Gauge: Carefully install the oil pressure gauge in position and start the center oil pressure gauge and the ammeter attaching screw, then install the one attaching screw at the outer end. Tighten both attaching screws. Connect the instrument wires. NOTE: After each instrument is installed, connect the battery cable, and test the operation of the instrument removed. If the car is equipped with either heater or air conditioning, or both, connect the defroster and spot cooler hoses. HEADLAMP SWITCH a. Removal (Model SY-1). (1) Disconnect the battery ground cable. (2) Remove the headlamp switch knob by releaa* ing the retainer on the body of the switch. (Knob must be in the full "IN" position before the knob stem can be released.) (3) Remove the switch chrome bezel nut. (4) Remove the switch chrome plate. (5) Remove the switch back dial plate and the dial lamp. (6) Remove the switch retaining nut. (7) Remove the light switch from the panel. (8) Disconnect the connector plugs and connections. b. Installation (1) Connect the wires and connections, and position the light switch on the instrument panel. (2) Install the light switch retainer nut. (3) Install the switch back dial plate and the dial lamp. (4) Install the switch chrome plate. (5) Install the switch chrome bezel nut. (6) Install the headlamp switch knob and stem. (7) Connect the battery cable. WINDSHIELD WIPER AND WASHER SWITCH a. Removal (Model SY-1) (1) Disconnect the battery ground cable. (2) Loosen the set screw and remove the control knob and automatic windshield washer control stem. NOTE: Use care when removing the windshield wiper control so as not to damage washer control stem. (3) Remove the bezel nut and the dial plate. (4) Remove the back dial plate and the dial lamp to uncover the switch retaining nut, remove the nut. (5) Remove the switch from the rear of the instrument panel. (6) Disconnect the wires and connections and remove switch.

67 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-67 (7.X. Remove,washer switch from wiper switch, b. Installation (.1) Install the washer switch on wiper switch. (2) Connect the wires and connections. (3) Position the switch on instrument panel and install and tighten switch retaining nut. (4) Install the dial lamp and dial back plate. (5) Install the dial plate and bezel nut (6) Position the washer control stem and install control knob and tighten set screw, (7) Connect the battery cable. IGNITION SWITCH a. Removal (Model SY-1) (1) Disconnect the battery ground cable. (2) Remove the switch bezel nut. (3) Remove the dial plate and-back dial. (4) Remove the dial lamp and switch retaining nut. (5) Remove the switch from rear of instrument panel. (6) Disconnect all wires and remove switch assembly. b. Installation (1) Connect all wires and connectors. (2) Position the switch on instrument panel (3) Install the switch retaining nut. (4) Install the switch dial lamp and dial face. (5) Install the dial plate. (6) Install the switch bezel nut. (7) Connect the battery cable. Fig. 128 Horn Blowing Ring Mounting Plate NOTE: The brake warning lamps, high beam lamp, turn signal lamps can be reached from underneath the instrument panel without removing the instrument cluster. DIRECTIONAL SWITCH (Model SY-1) Removal (1) Disconnect the cable at the battery negative post. (2) Remove the two screws from the underside of the steering wheel and remove the horn blowing actuator and steering wheel cover. (3) Disconnect the horn wire at the horn blowing switch. (4) Remove the four.screws and insulators and remove the horn blowing switch -(Fig. 125). Fig. 12S Horn Switch and Horn Wire Fig. 127 Removing the Steering Wheel

68 8-68 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS Fig. 128 Directional Switch and Lever Steering Wheel Removed Fig. 129 Removing the Directional Switch (5) Eemove the four screws and remove the horn blowing switch (Fig. 126). (6) Loosen the steering wheel nut several turns and install the Steering Wheel Puller Tool C-3428 (Fig. 127) and remove the steering wheel nut and steering wheel. (7) Remove the directional switch lever (Fig. 128). (8) Remove the steering column lower cover. (9) Remove the two screws and disconnect the switch wires at the connection and remove the directional switch and wires (Fig. 129). Installation (1) Position the directional switch, install the attaching screws and wire connections. (2) Install the steering column lower cover. (3) Install the directional switch lever. (4) Install the steering wheel and steering wheel nut, tighten the nut to 40 foot-pounds torque. Test the operation of the cancelling lever. (5) Install the horn blowing switch mounting plate and the four attaching screws. (6) Install the horn blowing switch, insulators and attaching screws. Connect the horn wire. (7) Install the horn blowing actuator, steering wheel cover and attaching screws. (8) Connect the battery cable at the battery negative post. DIRECTIONAL SIGNAL SWITCH a. Removal (Models SC-L SC-2, SC-3) Fig. 130 Removing the Turn Signal Switch (1) Disconnect the battery ground cable. (2) Disconnect the directional signal wires at the connectors. (3) Remove the directional signal switch (held to the jacket tube by two screws) (Fig. 130). b. Installation (1) Connect the directional signal switch wires at the connectors. (2) Position the turn signal switch on the column tube making sure the column jacket does not restrict switch movement and install the two attaching screws.

69 THE1MAL TYPE GAUGES ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-69 OPERATION Thermal type gauges operate on a principle of constant voltage being applied, and are sensitive only to changes in fuel level, oil pressure or temperature. The constant voltage is connected in parallel to the gauges and provides the same regulated voltage to the gauges. The constant voltage is provided through the use of a voltage regulator contained inside the oil pressure gauge case on Models SC-l, SC-2, SC-3 and in the temperature gauge on Model SY-1. The terminals on the gauge that houses the constant voltage regulator internally is marked as follows: "A" is the output terminal for the controlled voltage from the regulator. "I" is the 12 volt input voltage terminal to the voltage regulator. "S" is the terminal for the connection to the sending unit. The gauges (related to the thermal system) that do not contain the regulator will have only the controlled voltage terminal and the terminal for the connection to the sending unit. a. Tank Unit A float is hinged to allow the float to raise or lower dependent on the fuel level. The float connects to a variable resistance that provides a change in the resistance with any up or down motion of the float through a wiping contact in the gauge body (Fig. 131). Fig. 132 Operation with the Tank Empty b. Fuel Level Indicating System Turning the ignition key on connects the system to the battery or charging system voltage. The function of current in the circuit is high. The panel gauge voltage from the car battery or charging system to a constant voltage or approximately 5 volts D.C. When the fuel level is low or empty, the resistance is increased which decreases the current flow and consequently positions the panel gauge pointer to low or empty (Fig. 132). When the tank is full, the float level is at'the top, the minimum resistance is in the circuit and the flow of current in the circuit is high. The panel gauge pointer will be moved across the dial to indicate a full tank (Fig. 133).

70 8-70 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS INSULATED WASHER INSULATING TUBE TEMPERATURE SENSING ELEMENT TEMPERATURE UNIT OPERATION WITH HIGH TEMPERATURE TERMINAL INSULATOR HEAT CONDUCTOR DISC ELECTRICAL CONDUCTING SPRING 59 X ]00A Fig. 134 Engine Temperature Sending Unit c. Engine Temperature Sending Unit (Fig. 134) This unit like the fuel level tank unit operates on a principle of varying resistance. d. The Temperature Indicating System The operation of the temperature indicating system is identical in operation with fuel system with the exception of the method of varying the resistance of the sending unit. When the engine is cold the resistance of the disc in the temperature sending unit is high. Low temperature will be indicated (Fig. 135). TEMPERATURE UNIT OPERATION WITH LOW TEMPERATURE Fig. 136 Operation at High Temperature As the engine temperature increases the resistance of the temperature sending unit disc starts to decrease. A resultant increase in the current flow will occur causing the gauge pointer to indicate the increase in engine temperature (Fig. 136). e. Oil Pressure Sending Unit (Fig. 137) (SC-L SC-2, SC-3) This unit consists of a spring loaded diaphragm and a variable resistance unit. The electrical circuit for the oil pressure system grounds through the pin in the diaphragm. TO PRESSURE GAUGE HIGH RESISTANCE WITH LOW PRESSURE LOW WITH RESISTANCE HIGH PRESSURE CONSTANT VOLTAGE SUPPLY 3*7X104 Fig. 135 Operation at Low Temperature OIL GALLERY Fig. 137 Oil Pressure Sending Unit

71 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 8-71 CLUTCH SOLENOID - REAR RISER FRONT RISER UP F-9A - ^ 0 i-f-6a F-5A- - F-8A - SIX WAY SEAT ADJUSTER SWITCH C1R. GA. COLOR F-10A 14 WHITE F-9A 14 DK. BLUE F-8A 14 BROWN F-7A 14 DK, GREEN F-6A 14 YELLOW F-5A 14 RED F BLACK F GREEN F RED F WHITE F-9 16 DK. BLUE F-8 18 BROWN F-7 18 DK. GREEN F-6 18 YELLOW F-5 14 RED F-2A 12 RED F-2 10 RED CLIPv COWL CIRCUIT BREAKER- SEE CHASSIS AND INSTRUMENT PANEL WIRING DIAGRAM FOR FEED CABLE CD F-2A MOTOR RELAY SEAT ADJUSTER MOTOR 61x101 Fig. 138 Six Way Seat Adjusting Wiring Diagram RIGHT DOME LAMP WIRING M-2E -a* REAR DOME LAMP AUTOMATIC SWITCH M^?UAL 1 M-1C DOME LAMP TWO DOOR MALE HARDTOP / FEMALE / RIGHT RIGHT BLOWER MOTOR TO RIGHT TAIL STOP AND TURN SIGNAL LAMP ^7c3?S= FEMALE GROMMET TO HPT TAIL STOP AND L-7A TURN SIGNAL LAMP an. GA, COLOR B-2 18 WHITE B-2A 18 WHITE WHITE B-2C c-n IS WHITE 18 BLACK C WHITE C13 18 BLACK C-13A >* BLACK C BROWN C-20A 14 BROWN C DK. GREEN C22A 14 DK, GREEN D-7 18 BROWN D-7A 18 BROWN D-«18 DK. GREEN D-8A 18 OK. GREEN G-4 1* LT. BLUE L-7 It BLACK L-7A 18 BLACK L-7B 18 BLACK L-7C IS MACK M-1 If P***K M-1A li FINK M-il 18 PINK M-1C 18 PINK M-1D 18 PWK M-1E ts FINK ( ^ I I 1 U : I W V TO COWL CIRCUIT BREAKER AUTOMATIC SWfTCH FEMALE LEFT BLOWER MOTOR TO TOP LIFT SWITCH WIRING (ON INSTRUMENT PANEL) TO INSTRUMENT PANEL WIRING FEMALE MALE r&\: i i u=i WMI M-M 18 PINK T-! 12 RED T-2 1? BROWN m. 12 YHIOW 62x553 Fig. 139 Body and Dome Lamp Wiring Diagram (Except Town and Country) (Chrysler)

72 8-72 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS 10 AMPERE FUSE TO C1GA1 LIGHTER IF SO EQUIPPED TO TAIL GATE AND WINDOW LIFT REAR ROOF SWITCH 3 SEAT SUBURBAN ONLY TO RIGHT REAR DOOR AUTOMATIC SWITCH FEMALE MALE D-7A RIGHT TAIL STOP AND TURN SIGNAL L-7D LAMP TO TAIL GATE AND WINDOW LIFT SWITCH WIRING SEE DIAGRAM INSTRUMENT PANEL WIRING TO AIR CONDITIONING SWITCH WIRING ON INSTRUMENT PANEL 62 x 593 Fig. 140 Body and Dome Lamp Wiring Diagram (Town and Country) (Chrysler) MALE COWL TERMINAL 10 AMPERE FUSE BLOCK OR FEED SIDE OF CIRCUIT BREAKER RIGHT REAR DOOR AUTOMATIC SWITCH M-2G RIGHT BLOWER MOTOR SEE INSTRUMENT PANEL WIRING 62 x 574 RIGHT TAIL STOP AND TURN SIGNAL LAMP L-ZA Cfl T-l 12 RE5 T-2 12 BROWN T-3 12 YELLOW X-3 14 LT. GREEN X-3A 14 ' LT. GREEN cm GA. COLOR B-2 18 WHITE B-2A 18 WHITE B-2B 18 WHITE C-ll 18 BLACK C WHITE C BLACK C-13A 18 BLACK C BROWN C-20A 14 BROWN C DK. GREEN C-22A 14 DK. GREEN D-7 18 BROWN D-7A 18 BROWN D-8 18 DK. GREEN D-8A 18 DK. GREEN G-4 18 LT. BLUE L-7 18 BLACK L-7A 18 BLACK L-7B 18 BLACK L-7C 18 BLACK L-7D 18 BLACK M-l 18 PINK M-1A 18 PINK M-1B 18 PINK M-1C 18 PINK M-1D 18 PINK M-2 18 YELLOW M-2A 18 YELLOW M-2B 18 YELLOW M-2C 18 YELLOW M-2D 18 YELLOW M-2E 18 YELLOW M-2F 18 YELLOW M-2G 18 YELLOW M PINK M-HA 18 PINK M YELLOW Fig. 141 Body and Dome Lamp Wiring Diagram (Imperial)

73 RIGHT FRONT DOOR SWITCH RIGHT REAR DOOR MOTOR RIGHT REAR DOOR OR QUARTER SWITCH RIGHT REAR DOOR OR QUARTER MOTOR GAUGE FOR BODY CIR COLOR W-24C BLACK W-24B BLACK W-24A DK. GREEN W DK. GREEN W-23C LT. GREEN W-23B RED W-23A RED W RED W-22C BLACK W-22B VIOLET W-22A VIOLET W VIOLET W-21A LT. GREEN W BROWN W-14C W-14B W-14A LT. GREEN GRAY GRAY W GRAY W-13C BLACK W-13B ORANGE W-13A ORANGE W ORANGE W-12C LT. GREEN W PINK W-12A PINK W PINK W-11A BLACK W-ll DK. BLUE W WHITE W BLACK W YELLOW W TAN W-2A YELLOW W-2 W-4 W-3 W 22 W-12 -W-12A- W-24 UP FEED DOWN -CC3 W-14 LEFT FRONT DOOR MASTER SWITCH 30 AMP CIRCUIT BREAKER SEE DIAGRAM INSTRUMENT PANEL WIRING FOR CIRCUIT BREAKER FEED -W-2- UP -W-22C- LEFT FRONT DOOR MOTOR UP -W-ll/ W-23- W-24C W-14C -W-14- -W-24A- LEFT REAR DOOR OR QUARTER SWITCH LEFT REAR DOOR OR QUARTER MOTOR UP DOWN C33~~W-13C- -W-23A W-23C - 61xl02A Fig. 142 Electric Window Lift Wiring Diagram (Chrysler)

74 I 8-74 " ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS M-1A CIR. GA COLOR L-6 YELLOW WITH 18 BLACK TRACER L-7 18 BLACK DARK GREEN M-l 18 PINK M-1A 18 PINK M-1B 18 PINK M-IC 18 PINK M-2 18 YELLOW M-2A 18 YELLOW M-2B 18 YELLOW M-2C 18 YELLOW M-3 18 YELLOW P-l 18 LIGHT BLUE P-2 18 LIGHT BLUE BLACK 0-2A 12 BLACK 0-3 RED WITH 12 WHITE TRACER R-6 12 BLACK R-6A 12 BLACK S-2 18 YELLOW V-2 Id PINK V-3 16 BLACK V-4 16 RED V-5 16 YELLOW V-6 16 DARK BLUE V-9 18 BLACK V-10 TAN WITH 18 BLACK TRACER X-1 16 RED X BLACK X GRAY X RED 62X575 FOOT DIMMER SWITCH DASH UNE ACCESSORY BREAKERS CIRCUIT Fig. 143 Instrument Panel Wiring Diagram (Chrysler)

75 ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS ~ 8-75 AUTO PILOT SWITCH LIGHT MALE FEMALE E-2D FEMALE OSCILLATOR HEATER CONTROLS MALE E-2 I E-2A VFEMALE MALEV E. 2 E FEMALE MALE 1 STARTER AND IGNITION,ACC S W I T C H vst., WINDSHIELD WIPER SWITCH KifVARlABLE SPEED) is xv-v-3' M-2B E-2C- E-3B HIGH BEAM INDICATOR LAMP -X-21 FEMALE E-3C -E-3D M-1C MALE GLOVE BOX LAMP AND SWITCH [CLOCK -M-1B- M-2,3>=cD MAP W M P -X-12-!3RADIO FEED r^<4 t jflcicar LIGHTER I., RADIO 30-E3 LIGHTING FEED -M-2B- D-9- RIGHT TURN SIGNAL^ NDICATOR UMP OIL GAUGE- M-2A RIGHT FRONT DOOR AUTOMATIC SWITCH C1R. I 3A COLOR A-l 10 RED A-LA 12 RED A-1B* 10 RED a-i 18 WHITE B-2 18 WHITE B-5 14 LIGHT GREEN C-l BLACK WITH 16 WHITE TRACER C-4 16 BROWN C-5 16 DARK GREEN D-l 18 BLACK D-1A 18 BLACK D-2 18 RED D-3 18 PINK D-4 18 WHITE D-5 19 TAN D-6 18 LIGHT GREEN D-7 18 BROWN D-8 18 DARK GREEN D-9 18 TAN D LIGHT GREEN D VIOLET D ORANGE E-l 18 TAN E-2 18 ORANGE E-2A 18 ORANGE E-2B 18 ORANGE E-2C 18 ORANGE E*2D 18 ORANGE E-2E '8 ORANGE E-3 18 WHITE E-3A 18 WHITE E-3B 18 WHITE E-3C 18 WHITE WHITE E-3E 18 WHITE E-3F 18 WHITE E-3G 18 WHITE YELLOW G-? 18 RED G-2 18 VIOLET G-3 18 RED G-4 18 LIGHT BLUE G-5 19 BLACK G-6 18 GRAY H-3 18 SLACK J-l 12 RED J-2 16 DARK BLUE J-3 18 DARK BROWN L-1 BLACK WITH 16 WHITE TRACER LiGHT GREEN RED L-4 16 SLACK L-5 18 RED CENTERUNE OF "STEERING COLUMN E-4- E-2B L-8 1 L-A- -L-1 INST. HEADLAMP SWITCH LEFT TURN SIGNAL-* tndicator LAMP I TO TRANS. PUSH 3 BUTTON LIGHT E-1 J M-lA l-~lfift FRONT LAMP _ 2 FLASHER -3 RIGHT FRONT LAMP 4 LEFT REAR LAMP 5 STOP LAMP 6 RIGHT REAR LAMP 7-TURN SIGNAL AUTOMATIC CANCELING SWITCH 8-TURN SIGNAL AUTOMATIC CANCELING SWITCH -M-2C! LEFT FRONT DOOR AUTOMATIC SWITCH Fig. 143 Instrument Panel Wiring Diagram (Chrysltr) 62 x S7S