ARF InstructionandOperationManual

Transcription

1 ARF InstructionandOperationManual Max Tested Flight Speed 211 MPH The All-Electric ARF Jet Version State Road 419 Winter Springs, FL USA tel fax

2

3 BOB VIOLET MODELS Electra ARF INTRODUCTION...1 WARNING...1 DISCLAIMER...1 PERMA-GRIT AND SOME OTHER USEFUL TOOLS...1 TOOL LIST...2 ABBRIEVIATIONS USED IN THIS MANUAL...3 WARNINGS...3 GENERAL ASSEMBLY TECHNIQUES...4 THINK LIGHT...4 ABOUT THE PACKAGING...4 TRIAL FITTING PARTS...4 GLUE, ZAP AND BVM AEROPOXY / Vpoxy...4 GLUING TECHNIQUES...4 GLUE CHART...5 RADIO EQUIPMENT WARNING...5 FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION...6 PREPARING THE FIBERGLASS PARTS...6 NOSE GEAR DOOR AND BELLY HATCH CUT OUT...7 FUSELAGE BULKHEADS...9 MAIN SPAR ASSEMBLY...10 FAN MOUNT...11 NOSE GEAR MOUNT...13 STABILIZER MOUNT...15 MOUNTINGTHE VERTICAL FIN Part MOUNTING THE WINGS AND STABILIZERS...18 WING AND STABILIZER ALIGNMENT...20 GLUING THE STAB SPARS...21 ELEVATOR CONTROL HORNS...25 ELEVATOR PUSHROD EXIT...27 ELEVATOR CONTROL ROD...27 WINGS...30 WING REINFORCEMENT...30 LANDING GEAR MOUNTS...30 LEADING EDGE ALIGNMENT PIN...31 AILERON SERVO...33 AILERON CONTROL HORN, COVERPLATE, AND LINKAGE...33 FLAP CONTROL HORN...33 FLAP SERVO MOUNT...33 INSTALLING THE RUDDER SERVO...33 NOSE GEAR DOORS...33 NOSE GEAR DOORS...33 NOSE DOOR ACTUATION...33 INLETS AND FAN MOUNT...33 FINAL ASSEMBLY...33 MOUNTINGTHE VERTICAL FIN Part SECURING THE WINGS...33

4 BOTTOM HATCH...33 AIR/ BLUE MAIN GEAR RETRACTION...33 SERVO-OPERATED MAIN GEAR RETRACTION...33 MAIN GEAR COVER PLATES AND STRUT INSTALLATION...33 MAIN GEAR SERVO MOUNTING...33 LINKAGE INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT...33 AIR/ BLUE NOSE GEAR RETRACTION...33 SERVO-OPERATED NOSE GEAR RETRACTION...33 NOSE GEAR STEERING LINKAGE...33 NOSE GEAR DOORS...33 ENGINE HATCH...33 CANOPY HATCH...33 COCKPIT AND CLEAR CANOPY...33 COMPLETING THE MODEL GENERAL GUIDELINES...33 GEARING UP...33 DX7 RECEIVER LOCATION...33 RECEIVER BATTERY...33 LANDING GEAR FINAL CHECK...33 EVF AND BATTERY INSTALLATION...33 INSTALLING THE TAILPIPE...33 CONTROL TRAVEL AND CG...33 FIRST RUN AND TAXI TEST...33 FIRST FLIGHT PROFILE...33 SERVO TYPE...33 LEAD EXT...33

5 INTRODUCTION The Electra Jet design is very close to that of the successful turbine powered BVM Bandit. It is smaller and has ducting designed for ducted fan propulsion. It is a perfect match for the BVM Electric VioFan and has been extensively flight tested and fine-tuned for efficient operation. Note: All E Jets are built lightweight. Give due consideration when handling each fiberglass component. WARNING The BVM Electra ARF is offered to you in this completely engineered and flight-tested format. Please give serious thought before trying to modify or improve any facet of this power and airframe package. This model is designed to safely operate with The BVM Electric VioFan. Any deviations, modifications or changes to any of the power unit components could lead to damage of these components. We highly recommend that you read and study carefully all of the instructions that come with this model and the propulsion unit itself. Even though this is an electric powered model, its performance exceeds that of glow-powered ducted fans. Indeed the BVM EVF unit is an incredibly powerful unit and should be operated and handled with care. Along with the high performance of this model comes the responsibility for its proper use. DISCLAIMER Bob Violett Models Inc. assumes no liability for the operation and use of these products. The owner and operator of these products should have the necessary experience and exercise common sense. Said owner and operator must have a valid Academy of Model Aeronautics license. PERMA-GRIT AND SOME OTHER USEFUL TOOLS BVM Page 1 1/15/2010

6 Perma-Grit tools are sold in the USA by BVM. These are very high quality, tungsten carbide grit abrasive tools that will make your modeling easier. TOOL LIST 2-56 tap 4-40 tap 2-flute.050 Hex Driver, BVM part #2157 Perma-Grit small files BVM part # NF-1 Large files are also handy (#LNF-1) (2) X-Acto Razor Saw #235 X-Acto #27 saw blade Carbide Cutters (5/pk) BVM #2142 Set of ball end hex wrenches Dremel drum sander Dremel #409 cut-off discs and mandrel A good set of small Phillips and Flat Blade screwdrivers 12" steel ruler with 1/10th inch scale #43 (.089 ) 4-40 tap drill A set of small drill bits Pin vise to hold 1/16 drill bit Perma-Grit cut off Disc RD-2 Perma-Grit FXT-1 Milled Fiber BVM #1905 BVM Page 2 1/15/2010

7 ABBRIEVIATIONS USED IN THIS MANUAL CA cyanoacrylate adhesive LE leading edge SHCS socket-head cap screw TE trailing edge SMS sheet metal screw F/G fiberglass SHSS socket-head set screw CG center of gravity P-P poly-ply CF carbon fiber C/L centerline LC laser cut SHSMS socket-head sheet metal screw BHMS button-head machine screw BHSMS button-head sheet metal screw WARNINGS Use a particle mask such as 3M #6985 (available at auto paint supply stores) to protect from inhaling the glass or carbon fiber dust. Use this mask whenever sanding or cutting fiberglass or carbon fiber materials. Use a professional charcoal filter paint mask (also available at auto paint supply stores) when spraying any primer or paint. Spray out of doors or in a properly vented spray booth. Use safety glasses any time rotary tools, such as Dremel #409 disc or Perma-Grit cutters, are being used. BVM Page 3 1/15/2010

8 GENERAL ASSEMBLY TECHNIQUES Electra ARF THINK LIGHT Extra glue, extra paint, extra resin will add up to a heavy model. Since 75% of the area of the model is behind the CG, a heavy model will only get heavier with the addition of nose weight. ABOUT THE PACKAGING The individual parts of this model have been packaged according to assembly groups. Labels on the plastic bags identify each group of parts. TRIAL FITTING PARTS BVM makes every attempt to insure that the parts in our kits have the best possible fit. However, due to manufacturing tolerance accumulation, some parts may fit a little tight. Always trial fit parts with mating parts and if necessary adjust the part perimeter with Perma-Grit hand tools. GLUE, ZAP AND BVM AEROPOXY / Vpoxy Using high quality adhesives such as the ZAP products from Pacer Technology will help protect the investment made in this model. Through experience we have found these adhesives to be the best available to modelers, therefore we refer to them in this manual. Low quality glues deteriorate with time and could render the model unsafe. For extremely high stress areas, such as the wing and tail mounting former to fuselage joints, BVM sells a thixotropic, slow cure, aerospace grade, 2-part epoxy system called AeroPoxy. It is the strongest and best gripping adhesive we have found. Always squeeze a small amount from the nozzle into a waste bin when first starting to apply the glue or if the nozzle has not been used for more than a few minutes. The BVM Vpoxy can also be used in place of AeroPoxy. It cures in half the time but is less thixotropic GLUING TECHNIQUES Except for bare balsa and plywood, scuff all mating surfaces to be joined with #80 grit paper. This gives tooth for the glue to form a mechanical bond. For laser-cut plywood parts, use #80 grit paper to scuff the burned edges of these parts before applying glue. AeroPoxy/Vpoxy is best applied using an auto mix nozzle. Most applications can be accomplished with the 3-inch nozzle. Small, no nozzle hand mixes can be used where appropriate. Once applied in a bulkhead-to-fuse joint, use a finger or cotton Q-tip to make a neat smooth fillet while removing any excess glue. Puddles of glue add weight and do not contribute to strength. Always check the outside skin of the model to look for any glue residue and BVM Page 4 1/15/2010

9 remove it with Isopropyl alcohol before it cures. These epoxies are tough to remove once they have thoroughly cured. GLUE CHART Surfaces to be joined Glue preferences epoxy glass to epoxy glass... ZAP CA, epoxy, AeroPoxy/Vpoxy balsa to balsa... ZAP CA plywood to balsa... ZAP-A-GAP poly ply strips to fiberglass... ZAP-A-GAP carbon fiber to wood... ZAP-A-GAP carbon fiber to fiberglass... ZAP-A-GAP, AeroPoxy/Vpoxy composite formers to fiberglass... AeroPoxy/Vpoxy plywood formers to fiberglass... AeroPoxy/Vpoxy hardwood to plywood... AeroPoxy/Vpoxy CAUTION: USE ADEQUATE VENTILATION FOR ALL GLUING PROCEDURES. IF YOU ARE SENSITIVE TO CA GLUES, USE THE ODORLESS VARIETY. RADIO EQUIPMENT WARNING STOP!!! Electric powered ducted fan models require special attention to reduce and eliminate electronic noises that can interfere with Radio Control. If the model is operated with 72 Mhz equipment, you must use the proper techniques, RF filters, and an external antenna. BVM uses the Spektrum 2.4 Ghz radios for all of our electric powered jets. This system eliminated the problem of electronic noise interference. Hundreds of trouble free flights are good evidence. A list of the recommended servos and extension leads can be found in the back of this manual in addition to the plans. Always center and install the correct output arms while on the bench, once the servo is in the aircraft, access to the servo arm screw is sometimes limited. BVM Page 5 1/15/2010

10 FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION The fuselage construction begins with cutting out and finishing all of the various access openings, lightening holes and slots in the fuselage and other fiberglass sections. To accomplish this task, simple tools are required. Below is a list and description of the necessary items. Whenever cutting or grinding on fiberglass parts, a particle mask and eye protection such as described at the front of this manual should be worn. To make the task of preparing the fuselage with all of it s intricate cutouts easier, it is recommended that the correct tools be used for the job. In the following steps it will be required to cut holes of varying shape and size. Some of the cutouts will require an initial, or rough cut followed by a slight finishing of the area being cleared. Using the right tools makes the job go much smoother. Below is a picture of the tools BVM has found to work best. (1) Razor saw (fine tooth X-Acto #X235) Use when a perfect straight line is required such as for the bottom hatch cover and nose gear doors. (2) Razor saw*, (blade only) Use in conjunction with the razor saw, this will allow perfect corners to be cut in the removable panels and doors. (3) 1/8 carbide cutter This bit works great to quickly cut through fiberglass, but only for rough cuts. (4,5 & 7) These Perma-grit and Dremel bits are used to clean up edges and corners. (6) Cutting disk This tool is also a roughing bit, but it allows a straight line to be cut quickly Works great for cutting out the canopy opening. (8,9 &10) Perma Grit files (flat, round and pyramid) Use these tools to get precise angles and corners. *NOTE: Grip the saw blade in a vise and pull the handle off with a pair of pliers, then grind the dimples off. Wrap one end with masking tape. PREPARING THE FIBERGLASS PARTS Cut and clear away the forward edge of the engine hatch opening using the scribe line as a guide. Use a drum sander to smooth all of the corners around both the engine and canopy hatch openings. Use a BVM scuff board to clean up the long straight edges of the hatch openings to ensure there are no rough spots. Study the plans and note where the various bulkheads within the model are located. Use #80 grit sandpaper to thoroughly scuff the entire inside of the fuselage, paying special attention to the areas where bulkheads are to be located. In addition, the areas of the bottom hatch and nose gear doors will need to be scuffed. It is much simpler to accomplish this now before cutting these sections away. BVM Page 6 1/15/2010

11 NOSE GEAR DOOR AND BELLY HATCH CUT OUT See previous page for special tools. See also Alternate Method. IMPORTANT NOTE: The nose gear doors are cut away from the fuselage as a single unit. The front, or strut door is then cut to length after installing the nose retract bulkheads in a later step. Place masking tape along the edges of the scribe lines on the bottom hatch and nose gear door opening. (NOTE: The nose gear door is framed by scribe lines only at the corners. Use a straight edge to draw lines for placing the masking tape.) Make a panel marking tool by breaking a Dremel #409 disk in half and gluing the half piece into a slot in a ¼ dowel about 6 long. With a steel straight edge as a guide, make multiple strokes with this tool to break through the painted surface. NOTE: This will avoid chipping the paint during the following process. BVM stocks the appropriate color paints for small touch-up work if necessary. Remove the tape gently, pulling it back on itself. Using the ruler as a guide, pull the X-Acto #235 razor saw in one direction to begin to score the surface of the fiberglass. After a few passes, begin a sawing action to cut through the fiberglass. Cut one side then the other, then cut the front and rear lines. Do not cut into the corners until the majority of the cutting is complete. This will hold the part in place, making the job easier. With all but the corner cuts complete, use the razor saw (blade only) to cut into the corners as shown. With #180 Grit (BVM #4846), block sand the edges of both the door and the opening in the fuselage. BVM Page 7 1/15/2010

12 Alternate Method to cut out F/G Panels: Some modelers prefer to use a Dremel #409 disc in the motor tool to make the cuts. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES. Stay away from the corners about 1/8 and do not allow the disc to penetrate more than a quarter of its radius. Finish cutting the corners with a razor saw. Use these same techniques to cut away the bottom hatch. Put these sections aside until required later. BVM Page 8 1/15/2010

13 FUSELAGE BULKHEADS The Electra s internal structure was designed such that most of the construction and gluing of parts is done outside the model in a separate, or modular fashion. Once completed, these separate sections are installed at the same time while also mounting the main wing and tail assemblies. IMPORTANT NOTE: PARTS ORIENTATION Bulkheads F4, F6, and F7, all must be oriented within the fuselage correctly. Each of these parts has a tick mark on one side. This mark must be on the righthand side of the model. Lightly scuff one side of the.010 poly ply doubler and laminate it onto the FRONT of F10 using ZAP-A-GAP medium CA. NOTE: The factory Electra Jets use JR 3421 (Mini) servos on elevator. Included in the kit, on laser cut sheet LC028; BVM has included elevator servo mounts (F7A) for two sizes of servo (Mini and standard size). The servo size that will be installed for the elevator must be selected before proceeding. Glue the servo screw doublers, (located within the F7A parts themselves) onto the back of F7A, then glue the F7A Assemblies onto F7. Be sure to get all pieces oriented correctly as shown in photo at right. Install the servos into position. Position the output shaft of the servo toward the FRONT of the model. Laminate the two (2) F5 Retract Servo mount formers together using ZAP-A-GAP. Use the lightening holes to align correctly. This assembly is not required if air retracts are to be used. NOTE: The servo mount brackets will be installed later. BVM Page 9 1/15/2010

14 MAIN SPAR ASSEMBLY The main spar assemblies, front and rear, are comprised of plywood formers F4 and F6, the carbon fiber main spar reinforcement sections and the four (4) wing plug-in channels. IMPORTANT: Please note that F4 and F6 need to be oriented correctly with the tick marks to the right. Make sure when gluing parts together that the front and back of these parts is determined ONLY after orienting F4 and F6 correctly. Locate the four (4) 6-32 steel inserts and four (4) carbon fiber wing plug-in channels. Press one of the inserts into a plug in channel from the back small end first, as shown at right. The channels are symmetrical so it does not matter which hole the insert is placed. Included in the kit is a single 6-32 flat washer. Use this and one of the 6-32 SHCS to thread into the insert from the front and tighten until the insert is fully seated into the carbon fiber plug-in channel. Complete all four channels the same way. After this, the 6-32 flat washer has no purpose Use #80 grit sandpaper to scuff the back of the Carbon fiber main spar reinforcement pieces, then glue them into position on F4 and F6 carefully aligning the tops of the formers with their corresponding carbon pieces using medium CA. Study the picture at right to get the orientation correct. The carbon pieces go on the FRONT of F4 and the REAR of F6 Turn the spar assemblies over and use the laser cut holes as a guide to drill through the carbon pieces with a #43 or 3/32 bit. Next, tap all sixteen holes for Orient the plug-in channels onto the spar assemblies with the 6-32 threaded insert on the inboard end. Attach each of the plug in channels to the assemblies with (4) 4-40 x 5/8 SHCS BVM Page 10 1/15/2010

15 Install the 6-32-x ¼ SHCS into the rear spar s (F6) threaded inserts and the 6-32 x ½ SHCS into the front spar s (F4) threaded inserts. FAN MOUNT 1 x 2 x 3 steel blocks are handy for establishing right angle joints. Available at tool supply stores. Glue the F3A formers to F3 with ZAP-A-GAP. Cut a length of the ¼ triangle stock to fit into the junction as shown. Make a clearance cut to the triangle stock to allow the fan shroud to seat firmly up against former F3. BVM Page 11 1/15/2010

16 Attach the (4) F3B formers to the outside surfaces of F3A as shown using ZAP-A-GAP. From the ¼ x ½ x 7 Basswood, cut two (2) sections to fit to the sides of F3A and on top of the F3Bs. Use medium CA to tack the formers together, then add epoxy to the underside seam where the rails are is tilted slightly. This tilt matches the 5º angle of the EVF flange mounts. Place the EVF onto the mount, centering in the large opening. Drill and tap the four mounting bolt locations for 4-40 making sure that the fan is firmly against the back of F3. BVM Page 12 1/15/2010

17 NOSE GEAR MOUNT Locate the (4) carbon flex arm mounts. Notice that two of the mounts have a (1) stamped on them as well as slightly smaller holes in the flange as shown in the photo. Tap the holes of both of these mounts NOTE: Orientation of protrusions on the vertical sections does not matter. IMPORTANT NOTE: The proper operation of the nose gear and the nose gear doors, driven by a single servo, is achieved by geometry designed into the system and has been thoroughly flight-tested. The motion transfer arm and its plywood extension are key pieces to the operation of the primary nose door. The production arm packed with the kit is shown at right. In some of the subsequent photos a slightly different arm is shown due the factory model s evolutionary process of perfecting the door s operation. Use the arm as supplied. Study the fuselage plans and note the orientation of the motion transfer arm in relation to the transfer arm mount and F1. Scuff the sides of the transfer arm and glue the ply arm extension into the correct position using medium CA. Cut two strips of the.007 carbon fiber and laminate to the sides of the transfer arm and its extension with ZAP-A-GAP (photo below). Locate laser cut sheet LC-031 and remove the F1 and F2 formers. Laminate the two (2) F1 formers together using ZAP-A-GAP. Refer to the fuselage plans and note the orientation of former F2. Break away F2A and the servo screw doublers and glue these items onto the bottom of F2. NOTE: For servo-operated retracts the doubler for the steering servo is glued to the bottom of F2. For air retracts the doubler is glued to the top. Drill 1/16 pilot holes for the mounting screws. Use (4) 4-40 x ½ SHCS to install the flex arm brackets onto the F1 Assembly. The threaded flex arm brackets are installed on the front of the F1 assembly; this will allow removal. BVM Page 13 1/15/2010

18 Before final tightening of the bolts, slide the carbon flex arms into the mounts as shown, then tighten the bolts, this will allow both the front and rear flex arm mounts to properly align on the F1 assembly. SERVO NOTE: The servos for the Electra were carefully selected for the job. The elevation of former F2 allows for proper pushrod geometry. However, this requires the use of servos with a lower profile such as the JR 791 and 9411 servos. BVM recommends the use of these servos. Install the nose gear steering and retraction servos using the self tap socket head screws provided. NOTE: A JR DS821 can be used for the NG steering servo. A 3/8 shim will be required to raise the servo up appropriately. Install the nose gear onto the flex arms using (4) 3/8 self-tapping flat head screws. Once the gear is installed, the F1 and F2 assemblies can be joined by installing (2) #2 servo screws through the tabs at the front of the flex arms into the holes in F2 and F2A. NOTE: Even though the photo shows a servo-operated nose gear retract, an air retract is installed in the same manner. Install the EZ connector onto the transfer arm as shown but do not glue the transfer arm to the base mount at this time. Install the 2-56 ball stud onto the steering arm. BVM Page 14 1/15/2010

19 STABILIZER MOUNT Electra ARF Locate the parts shown to complete the following steps. Insert (4) 4-40 blind nuts to the ply F10a stab mount. Use one 4-40 bolt and washer. Use ZAP-A-Gap to secure the back of the blind nuts. BVM Page 15 1/15/2010

20 Assemble the Carbon Fiber Blade stab spars to the F10a stab mount using four 4-40 x 5/16 bolts with #4 washers. Slide the ply end caps over the spars and glue the end caps to the stab mount. Be careful to not glue the CF spars to the mount assembly. NOTE: The end caps have thick and thin top and bottom. Position such that the thin strip is on the bottom. Remove the Carbon blade spars until later. Do not glue the CF spars into the Stabs until the stab mount is glued into the fuselage. The stabs fit tight over the CF spars and will be glued later when the focus can be on the gap between the fuselage and the stab root. BVM Page 16 1/15/2010

21 MOUNTINGTHE VERTICAL FIN Part 1 Test fit F10 into the slot in the vertical fin. Use Perma Grit files to adjust parts for a slip fit. Temporarily install F10 into the rear of the fuselage. The former must be inserted from the main hatch. Temporarily tape the rudder to the vertical fin and trial fit the fin onto the fuselage noting the fit at the base. It should fit flush and in the correct position fore and aft. If the fin needs to be moved forward or aft slightly, this can be accomplished by trimming the slot in the fuselage behind or in front of the vertical fin spar. Set the fin aside until instructed to install the servo. BVM Page 17 1/15/2010

22 MOUNTING THE WINGS AND STABILIZERS Refer to the Main Spar Assembly A table will be needed to set the model on while performing this process that will allow viewing of the model from the front and rear to check the alignment of the wings and stabilizers. Trial fit the spar C channels over the four wing spars. Sand spars with #180 grit and then #320 grit paper if the C channels are too tight. Work slowly to not remove too much material. Place the front and rear main spar assemblies (F4 and F6) into position in the fuselage. Be sure to get them oriented correctly. NOTE: The wedge shaped balsa scraps used to shim the wings into alignment with the root fairings. This will be removed after the wing mounts are tack glued and before the final glue assembly. Slide the wings into the spar assemblies pushing them all the way against the fuselage. Note any misalignment with the root of the fuselage. It may be necessary to remove the wings and file the spar cutouts in the fuselage to get a good fit. Ensure that both wings fit snugly against the root of the fuselage. Tighten the front and rear 6-32 SHCS in each of the wing plug-in channels just enough to hold the wings. Use masking tape to hold the wing in perfect alignment around the entire periphery of the fuselage fairing. BVM Page 18 1/15/2010

23 Reassemble the F10a assembly, stab mount with carbon blade spars into the fuselage. Ensure F10A is centered when installing blade spars. If shifted to one side, one stabilizer will be high and one will be low. Look into the spar opening from the root of the stab. The spar will intersect the next two ribs after the root rib. The stabilizers should slide all the way up to the fuselage. Use a Perma Grit LNF-Hand file to adjust the opening as necessary. Slide the stabilizers into position. Do not glue the CF spars into the Stabs until the stab mount is glued into the fuselage. The stabs fit tight over the CF spars and will be glued later when the focus can be on the gap between the fuselage and the stab root. Make sure that each stabilizer assembly can be aligned at the front and rear. Center the stabilizer L.E. on the drilled hole. The elevator aligns with the fuselage fairing where it meets the elevator root. Have the elevator taped at the tip. BVM Page 19 1/15/2010

24 WING AND STABILIZER ALIGNMENT The dihedral and alignment of the wings is preset by the main spars and is non-adjustable. The anhedral of the stabilizers is designed into the structure. However, there is the capability to make slight adjustments to the stabilizers in order to have them align with the wings as sighted from the front or rear of the model. Site the model from the rear for alignment noting how the stab tips intersect the wing surface. Set the stabilizers at the correct incidence by aligning the L.E. with the 1/16 drilled hole and the T.E. with the fuselage root fairing while at the same time getting the anhedral aligned with the wing in rear view. Tack glue the primary structures; F4 and F6 (main spar assemblies) into the fuselage. Use a 1/8 dowel (barbeque skewer) to apply a thick mix of 5-minute (or 30-minute) epoxy and milled fiber (BVM #1905) to the outboard ends of the mounts (plywood formers to the fuse sides). The thixotropic mix will prevent the glue from running into the wing spars. Be sure, to double check that the glue does not touch the wing spar. After the wing mount glue has set, apply the same thickened glue mix to the outboard ends of the stabilizer mount and the bottom half of F-10. Make a filler piece for the stabilizer mount from a balsa block 3/16 thick, 4 long, and 7/8 wide. Leave the center 1.2 flat and taper each outboard section to about 1/16 thick at each side. Trial fit the filler piece under the 1/8 plywood stabilizer mount and adjust the piece for a slip fit against the F/G skin. Coat the balsa filler piece with epoxy and install it. After the tack gluing has thoroughly set, carefully remove the wings and stabilizers and apply AeroPoxy to secure the wing and stabilizer mount formers. Do not apply glue to the top half of F-10. This will be accomplished during the fin mounting procedure. BVM Page 20 1/15/2010

25 Allow the model to sit until these glue joints have fully cured. GLUING THE STAB SPARS Note: Keep isopropyl alcohol and paper towels handy to remove excess glue. Clean up any remaining mold flashing using a scuff board. Inject AeroPoxy into the spar slot. Make sure to flow the glue down the 1/16 ply plate. Insert the CF blade spar to spread the glue. BVM Page 21 1/15/2010

26 Remove the CF blade spar. Notice the distribution of the glue on the side of the blade spar that contacts the 1/16 ply plate. Repeat previous steps until even coverage. Apply glue to the end of the CF blade spar that is opposite of the 1/16 ply plate. Apply wax to the fuselage sides. Apply an AeroPoxy puddle to contact the bottom skin and the CF spar at the root. Use a barbeque skewer (1/8 dowel) to maneuver the glue. Wipe all excess glue from end of stab to prevent gluing it to the fuselage side. Insert the stab spars into the fuselage and re-bolt into position. Make sure the stabs are pulled up tight against the fuselage sides. Align the LE and TE and tape into position and allow the assembly to cure. Center the molded CF pin over the pre-drilled hole. Trace around the base of the molded pin. BVM Page 22 1/15/2010

27 Use a carbide cutter and a sanding drum to open the hole to the traced line. Install the 1/8 carbon alignment pin into hole. Use ZAP- A-GAP to tack in place. The boss of the pin should be inset 1/32 from the root, to allow clearance for the receptacle. Place the molded CF receptacle onto the pin. Trace around the receptacle, then remove the fiberglass to allow the flange of the receptacle to clear. Use AeroPoxy to finish securing the CF pin. Allow glue to cure. Drill a 1/16 hole in the fuselage side for the stab anti rotation receptacle. BVM Page 23 1/15/2010

28 Enlarge to 5/32, enough for the CF receptacle to be inserted from the outside. Scuff the area for the CF receptacle using a scuff board. Also, scuff the area inside the fuse and the CF receptacle. Set the CF receptacle in position. Apply a dab of oil or Vaseline to the CF pin. BVM Page 24 1/15/2010

29 Reinstall the stabilizer and align the LE with the drilled locator hole. Secure the CF receptacle to the inside of the fuselage with a fillet of Vpoxy. Allow to cure. The receptacle cannot be knocked off when the stabilizer is installed. Note: Upon final installation of the stabilizers, use Pacer Z-42 Loctite on the four 4-40 bolts to prevent loosening. ELEVATOR CONTROL HORNS Use a Scuff Board to deburr horns and prepare for gluing. Clean the clevis hole with a sharp 1/16 drill prior to installation. Set the carbide cutter to the appropriate depth by comparing it to the length of the control horn s base. BVM Page 25 1/15/2010

30 Use a 1/16 carbide cutter to make a slot in the control surface as indicated by the pen mark. Use a Perma-Grit flat file to adjust and fine-tune the control horn slot. Make sure the horn flange sits flat on the skin surface. There is a small radius in the corners that must be allowed for. Once the fit and alignment of the control horn is established, place masking tape around the perimeter of the slot leaving a 1/16 gap on the sides to allow for a fillet of AeroPoxy. Apply AeroPoxy into the slot and the holes on the base of the of the control horn. Push the control horn into the surface, and wipe the excess glue away leaving a small fillet. Pull the surrounding tape from the control horn and clean the glue residue from the painted surface. Allow glue to cure before handling the part. NOTE: The same procedures are applied to the aileron and rudder horns. BVM Page 26 1/15/2010

31 ELEVATOR PUSHROD EXIT Use a cutting wheel to make a slot just above the fuselage bottom radius as marked. Use Perma Grit FXT-103 to enlarge and smooth the slot to allow 1/16 pushrod clearance. ELEVATOR CONTROL ROD The elevators are controlled via.062 music wires riding in Nyrod sleeves. There are a few points that are very important to the smooth and free operation of the elevators. Install the F7 assembly into the model as shown on the plans. Glue into place with Vpoxy. Scuff the exterior of the 36 yellow Nyrod with #80 grit sandpaper then cut into two lengths. Solder a 2-56 threaded coupler on to one end of each of the.062 x 36 music wires using silver solder. BVM Page 27 1/15/2010

32 NOTE: The silver solder flux (acid) can cause metal to rust if it is not cleaned off. Coat the elevator pushrods with a light oil before installing into Nyrods. Electra ARF Once the glue on the F7 assembly (elevator servo mounts) is fully cured, if the servo s weren t installed earlier do so now as shown on plans output shaft is located forward. F-7 File a V into the 5 balsa stick supplied, cut in half, and glue in place to secure the Nyrod to the fuselage. NOTE: For this prototype we used one reversed servo and one regular servo. Feed the Nyrod and pushrod through the necessary hole in F-7 (from the front). NOTE: It is necessary to use the inner hole in the former F7 for the Nyrod when standard size servos are used. Install the balsa blocks at the locations shown on the plans. Tack in place with ZAP-A-GAP. Use Vpoxy to glue the Nyrod to F-7, to the grooves in the balsa block, and where the ends of the Nyrod contact the fuselage skin. Apply Vpoxy to secure the balsa blocks to the fuselage skin as well. BVM Page 28 1/15/2010

33 Install the stabilizer. With the servo arm and elevator both neutral, mark the cut off length of the.062 pushrod wire. Remove the Stab and silver solder the solder clevis onto the wire. Use a good quality solder gun or iron and protect the fuse from the heat with a moist rag or poster paper. Upon final installation, use a piece of heat shrink tubing to secure the solder clevis to the control horn. BVM Page 29 1/15/2010

34 WING REINFORCEMENT Apply carbon fiber cloth to the inside of the composite skin above the retract unit. This may save a wing repair in the case of a very bad landing that fractures the Flex Plate or the retract unit. Use the carbon cloth provided to cut two sections that fit between ribs R3 and R4. Scuff the inside of the skin, then brush in Pacer s Finishing Resin on the inside of the wing sheeting between R3 and R4. Place the cloth into the wing cavity to best cover the area, pushing it fore and aft with the brush. Wet the center section of the cloth and smooth out any wrinkles. Use a paper towel to soak up any excess resin. LANDING GEAR MOUNTS Use a Perma-Grit flat file to clean up the molded skin. The skin must be trimmed back to the surrounding ribs. Use a Carbide cutter to remove any glue fillet between the maple Flex Plate rail and the two ribs. (4 locations per wing) This is necessary so the Flex Plate can sit flat on the maple rails. BVM Page 30 1/15/2010

35 In preparation for installing the molded carbon Flex Plates, trim and sand away the small protrusions on one side of each edge of a Flex Plate. This will allow it to sit flush on top of maple rails and carbon blade spars. IMPORTANT: Check orientation of Flex Plate to determine which edges to trim. Place carbon Flex Plate into position and drill 5/64 holes for (8) #4 x 3/8 sheet metal screws (SMS). The Flexplate should rest neatly between the two ribs. If a gap exists, rest the Flexplate against the outer rib. LEADING EDGE ALIGNMENT PIN Use a Dremel tool to remove fiberglass as shown. Remove enough material to expose the hole in the plywood rib for the carbon alignment pin. Trim the entire flange at the wing root with a small drum sander such that mold flashing does not interfere with the wing fit to the fuselage side. Install 1/8 carbon alignment pin into hole at front of R1. Use thin or medium CA for now. Later this will be reinforced with BVM AeroPoxy. The boss of the pin should be inset 1/32 from the fiberglass surface at the root to allow clearance for the receptacle and it should be perpendicular to the wing root. Apply masking tape to the fuselage. BVM Page 31 1/15/2010

36 Slide the wing onto the fuselage. Apply ink from a marking pen to the tip of the CF pin. Gently press the LE pin into the masking tape to make a small mark on the tape. Drill a 1/16 hole, and then enlarge to 5/32, enough for the CF receptacle to be installed. The following is accomplished similar to the stab anti-rotation pins: Scuff the area for the CF receptacle using a scuff board. Set the CF receptacle in position. Apply a dab of oil or Vaseline to the CF pin. Reinstall the wing. Secure the CF receptacle to the inside of the fuselage with a fillet of Vpoxy. Allow to cure. Now the receptacle cannot be knocked off when the wing is installed. BVM Page 32 1/15/2010

37 AILERON SERVO NOTE: The aileron servo location is set up specifically for the JR When installed using the supplied BVM Flush Servo Mounts and then positioned on top of the servo base, the output arm is in the correct position and the servo is below the cover plate. Lay the servo and the angle bracket on the work surface as shown. Use a pencil to mark location of the servo screws. NOTE: The angle brackets must be flush with the side of the servo. Drill 1/16 holes in the previously marked locations. Install the provided #2 servo screws into the angle brackets. Note the amount the screws protrude beyond the angle brackets. BVM Page 33 1/15/2010

38 Remove the servo screws and trim to prevent protrusion beyond the angle brackets. Deburr end of screws with a grinding wheel. Reinstall the angle brackets onto the servo. Drill the maple blocks using a 1/16 drill as shown, four locations per servo. Install four full-length #2 servo screws. NOTE: It is necessary to notch the maple block for the servo wire. BVM Page 34 1/15/2010

39 Left and right aileron servos ready for final installation. Use a belt sander to bevel the maple blocks to allow the servo to fit into the servo pocket. After installation, the #2 screws should be flush with the recess for the servo pocket cover. Install the servo output arm centered as shown. The long arm of the standard 4-way is used. The aileron pushrod clevis attaches to the outside hole that is 0.4 (center to center) from the output shaft. Both left and right servos are mirror images of each other. Sand the angle bracket flush with the maple block. BVM Page 35 1/15/2010

40 Sand a radius on the bottom corner of the maple block to clear the glue fillet between the rib and the ply servo base plate. Test fit the servo into the pocket. Center the blocks on the ply base chord wise. Ensure good contact between the blocks and the rib. Use ZAP-A-GAP to initially glue the servo mounting blocks in place. Remove servo and finish gluing with AeroPoxy. Remove excess glue that might interfere with the servo fit. BVM Page 36 1/15/2010

41 AILERON CONTROL HORN, COVERPLATE, AND LINKAGE Refer back to the Elevator Control Horn section for installation of the aileron horns. Control horn ready for AeroPoxy. Rotate the servo arm forward, mark the farthest point it may reach with a piece a tape placed perpendicular. BVM Page 37 1/15/2010

42 Rotate the servo arm backward, mark the farthest point it may reach with a piece a tape placed perpendicular. With a solder clevis in place, place tape longitudinally marking the sides of the servo arm slot. Repeat steps for both right and left servo covers. BVM Page 38 1/15/2010

43 Use a carbide cutter and a Perma Grit file to open the slot. The two cover plates should look similar. Additional lengthening may be necessary to achieve proper control throw. This can be accomplished during final rigging and control throw setting. With the cover off the wing panel, drill 1/16 holes in each cover plate s four corners. BVM Page 39 1/15/2010

44 Place the cover over the opening and transfer the 1/16 holes to the wing. The cover is held in place using (4) #2 x 3/8 button head screws. Construct the push rods as shown on the plan. Some variance is to be expected for each setup. Always clean off solder flux and apply thin oil. Upon final installation, use a piece of heat shrink tubing to secure the solder clevis to the servo arm. It may also be necessary to secure the clevis to the control horn. BVM Page 40 1/15/2010

45 FLAP CONTROL HORN Use a Scuff Board to deburr the flap control horns. Sand down the area of the horn where glue is to be applied. Clean the clevis hole with a sharp 1/16 drill bit. Using the root as a base, mark the top of the flap for the flap control horn installation gauge location 8.75 at the trailing edge and 9.5 at the hinge line. Cover the top and bottom areas with tape to protect the flap from the gauge. Cut two ½ pieces of 1/16 music and glue into the flap gauges as shown. Tape the flap open at 90º. Use a 1/16 Carbide cutter to open a slot as marked for the flap horn being careful to not to hit the top wing skin with the cutter. Line the flap gauge up with the marks made earlier. Place the flap control horn on the piece of 1/16 wire as shown in the picture. Make sure the flat side of the horn is against the skin and that the horn is 90 to the hinge line Apply AeroPoxy into the slot and holes on the base of the control horn. Push the control horn into the slot and remove the excess glue leaving a small fillet. Allow glue to cure. BVM Page 41 1/15/2010

46 Cut a hole approximately ¼ x 3/8 in the rear wing spar centered on the flap horn for the pushrod. FLAP SERVO MOUNT Glue 1/64 Ply LC020 to the floor of the flap servo compartment using 5-minute epoxy. The front point of the ply piece may need to be rounded. Clean and sand the skin as needed so that the epoxy will adhere. Build the flap pushrods as shown in the picture. See plans for the dimensions. Build left and right flap servo mounting blocks and angle bracket assemblies in the same manner as the aileron servo mounts. Make sure the servo case side is even with the top of the brackets. Glue the blocks to a 1.6 x 2.5 piece of 1/8 plywood. Allow the servo arm to have 1/8 clearance from the side edge of the plywood. Install the servo arm at 90 with the arm pointing to the top of the plywood base. Use the outer hole of the short arm of a 4- arm servo horn. The center of the drive hole is.450 from the center of the servo shaft hole. In a similar manner to installing the flap horn, mark the bottom of the flap 8.75 at the trailing edge and 9.5 at the hinge line. Use a ruler to project a line from these marks into the flap pocket. BVM Page 42 1/15/2010

47 For clarification, this is the finished flap servo installation. Install the flap pushrod to the servo arm with the soldered coupler on the servo arm. Locate the 15º Flap Angle Gauge on the wing plan similar to the one shown. Cut the gauge out and glue it to a piece of scrap 1/8 - ¼ balsa. 15º Flap Angle Gauge Using the RC system or JR Matchmaker, power up the servo at the middle position. The servo arm should be perpendicular to the wing surface in the direction of the plywood base. Position the servo into the flap pocket with the pushrod exiting the hole in the rear spar. Attach the clevis to the control horn on the flap. Use the flap angle gauge to hold the flap at 15 then align the servo mount assembly with the line drawn in the flap pocket. Mark around the 1/8 plywood base. Keeping the control horn side of the base in place, rotate the assembly up and apply 5- minute epoxy. With the flap angle gauge still in place, hold the mount assembly in place at the marks until the glue has cured. Trim the provided balsa reinforcement block to fit between the front spar and the forward servo mount block. Use AeroPoxy to glue the block in place inside the flap pocket as shown. BVM Page 43 1/15/2010

48 INSTALLING THE RUDDER SERVO Due to the size of the vertical fin, a mini-sized servo is required. BVM recommends the JR3421. The Electra ARF fin has carbon fiber reinforcement in the location of the servo mounts. Use a Dremel with a carbide bit to cut a slot 0.6 (just under 5/8 ) deep 1/4 from side of both maple blocks. At the location shown on the plans. Install the rubber bushings that come with the servo into position but do not install the brass collets. Trial fit the block into position on the servo. The slot should be just wide enough to make a good snug fit. Use a BVM Scuff Board to adjust the slot as needed. Drill two 1/16 holes for the.015 poly ply retaining strip. Install two #2 x 3/8 button head screws. BVM Page 44 1/15/2010

49 Trial fit the servo into the vertical fin (see plans for proper location and orientation). Be sure that the servo sits just below the surface of the vertical fin allowing the cover plate room to seat flush into its opening. Make adjustments as necessary to the base of the mounting blocks to get a good fit. Ultimately the cover plate will hold the servo secure. File as necessary to allow the servo to drop in place. Use BVM AeroPoxy or Vpoxy to permanently secure the servo mount blocks to the vertical fin. Allow glue to cure. Use tape to mark the opening for the servo arm. Open with a carbide cutter, and finish with Perma Grit files similar to the Aileron servo covers. BVM Page 45 1/15/2010

50 Apply masking tape to the back side of the rudder servo cover. Apply black ink to the button head screws and press the tape against them to mark the locations. Drill these holes with a 1/16 drill. Reinstall the screws to secure the cover and the servo in place. If the corners do no seat fully use small dabs of silicone glue to hold them down. The silicone will be easily removed in order to service the servo. Refer back to the Elevator Control Horn section for installation of the rudder horn. Construct the push rod as shown on the plan. Some variance is to be expected for each setup. Upon final installation, use a piece of heat shrink tubing to secure the solder clevis to the control horn. BVM Page 46 1/15/2010

51 NOSE GEAR DOORS Use the plans as a guide for parts orientation, length and position. (NOTE: be sure to get the hinge sections into the correct location. The hinge being pointed to at right goes in the FORWARD location) Ensure that the opening for the nose gear door is sanded and that the door itself (still one piece) fits into the opening with a smooth and even gap all the way around. Use a sanding block to correct as necessary. Determine which end of the door goes forward and use a razor saw to cut the doors apart. The front door is 2.5 and the rear is 5.5 in length. Cut strips of the.015 x 3/8 x 36 poly ply to line the inside of gear bay as shown in the NOSE GEAR DOOR DETAIL on the fuselage plans. Be sure to scuff the poly ply before gluing into place with SLO-ZAP. Turn the model upside down and place the rear nose gear door into position resting on the poly ply strips. Allow a slightly larger gap on the hinge side. Use masking tape to secure the door in place. Turn the model up right. Glue the plywood motion transfer arm mount into the recess in the F1/F2 assembly using ZAP-A-GAP (see plans). Working through the engine hatch, slide the F1/F2 assembly into the nose section of the model. It is a tight fit past the inlets but a little pressure will push the assembly past. Center the F1/F2 assembly on the front of the nose door. Position the transfer arm assembly onto its mount and allow the arm to drop to the floor of the fuselage and make a mark just above the carbon reinforcement area as shown. Place the hinge assembly into position and ensure that the hole in the EZ connector falls slightly forward or slightly aft of the forward hinge s attachment point as these two points will be connected with a Z bend wire later (see plans). When the hinge assembly is properly located, use SLOW ZAP to glue the bosses to the fuselage and door. Be careful to not glue the hinge to its pivot base. AeroPoxy will be used to final glue the hinges to the fuselage interior. BVM Page 47 1/15/2010

52 Turn the model over, remove the masking tape and check the operation of the doors. The door should open and close without binding and should seat properly against the fuselage. IMPORTANT: Experience has shown very small amounts of CA are okay when used in conjunction with lightweight fiberglass sections such as the Electra Jet s fuselage. However, Large amounts of CA, especially when accelerated can cause deformation of the fiberglass skin. For this reason, BVM recommends that if CA is used to tack glue any of the bulkheads within the model that it is done sparingly. Later after all of the interior structure is installed, final glue all of the components with either AeroPoxy or Vpoxy. Once the operation of the nose door is correct, close the door and tape it as before. Check to make sure that former F1 is vertical in the model and that the tire and strut are centered over the door. Tack glue F1 and the F2 assemblies into the model. 5- minute epoxy is recommended. Trial fit the forward nose gear door. Use a flat Perma Grit file and cut a 3/32 recess into the front of the door, wide enough to accept the hinge. Locate the molded carbon attachment, the nose door spring and a single #2 x 3/8 Domed SMS. Mount the spring to the attachment point at one end and cut approximately ¼ off the other end of the spring. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to bend the last loop of spring out to make an attachment point. NOTE: BVM tried in vane to obtain springs the proper length. Glue the hinge into the recess in the door then glue the spring assembly onto the door as well using medium CA. Make sure that regardless of the location of the attachment point, the spring is positioned in the middle of the door (see plans for the vertical location of the spring assembly). Place the front door into position, close it and tape in place. Turn the model over and working from the inside, use ZAP-A-GAP to glue the hinge into the fuselage. Remove the tape and check the operation of the door. BVM Page 48 1/15/2010

53 NOSE DOOR ACTUATION Locate the 1/8 x 3/8 x 7 Balsa piece and cut it to the length shown on the plans to make the Nose Door Spring Mount Base. Glue the two molded pivot blocks onto the ends of the balsa piece as shown on the plans. Study the drawing for the Door Opening Spring at the top of the fuselage plan. Locate the.032 x 7 music wire and make the small loop and first bend as shown using needle nose pliers. Place the Wire through the pivot blocks then make the final 90º bend. Locate the.047 : x 2.75 music wire and using needle nose pliers, make a Z bend on one end. Study the drawing on the plans showing the two cross sections of F1 to visualize the geometry of the transfer arm and nose door. Install the Z bend into the door hinge and the other end into the EZ connector of the motion transfer arm and set the length to approximate the drawing. Note the location of the spring mount base and lightly tack glue to the fuselage side with medium CA or five-minute epoxy. It should be approximately at the height of the flex arms in front view and parallel with the hinge line of the rear nose gear door. From the supplied 3/8 x ¾ x 1 balsa block, cut the spring adjustment support block as shown on the cross section view of F1 on the fuselage plans. Spring arm rests on 4-40 bolt here. Cut a piece of scrap 1/8 plywood to ½ x ¾ long and glue to the top of the balsa wedge block. Trial fit into position and make a mark at the center of the loop in the.032 spring wire. Drill a 1/16 hole at this location. Glue this assembly into position with 5 minute epoxy as shown here Install a #2 x 7/16 servo mount screw into the hole through the loop as shown. After final hook up of the nose door, this spring and adjustment is used to apply just enough pressure to hold the door open in flight but not so much that it hinders the ability of the servo to pull the gear up and close the door. For now, retract the nose gear and tape both doors shut. Later during radio installation make all final adjustments to these components. BVM Page 49 1/15/2010

54 INLETS AND FAN MOUNT Note: The proper fits of the inlet duct to the molded lips on the fuse and into the recessed lip on the EVF shroud are important to efficient fan jet propulsion. To proceed with the installation of the inlets and fan mount, the EFV unit must be on hand. The fan mount was designed to act as a positioning fixture for the inlets during installation. NOTE: Centering the EVF in the fuselage is important for proper fit of the BVM Saddle Cells Scuff the exterior of the intakes with #80 grit sandpaper NOTE: It is very important to wrap each of the intakes with carbon BEFORE the two halves are joined. Use a scuff board to sand the seam on the inlets 5/16 from the rear edge to achieve a good inlet to shroud fit. Trim away the aft inside edge of each of the inlets; there is a scribe line for this on the inside of the inlet lip. Be sure to cut the deeper recess into the spinner cavity as shown at right. Use a belt sander or Dremel Rotary Tool to trim the EVF mount rails as shown from this top view. Bevel also the rear bottom corner to allow 2s2p battery installation (see later in this installation or on website). Trial fit the inlet ducts onto their respective fuselage-intake lips and place the fan mount over the inlets at the rear. It may help to use strips of masking tape to help hold the inlet sections to the intakes. Bolt the fan into position on the rails of the fan mount and over the inlets. Notice that it will slide.3 before the inlets hit the molded inside edge of the EVF shroud. This is the correct position for the EVF. Install the EVF centering patterns as shown in this photo. Place a straight piece of wood on the back edges of the EVF unit, check that the aft flange of the EVF shroud is 90 degrees to the fuse hatch flange. With the EVF shroud into position, slide the mount back until it just touches the shroud. Hold in place and double check the gaps of the inlet-to-intake lips. Use thin CA to tack the intakes to the inlets and medium CA to tack the fan mount to the inlets. In these two cases the CA will not affect the visible surfaces of the model. Use Slo-Zap and small clamps or clothes pins to join the duct at the aft vertical members. Use a Dremel Rotary Tool to remove the turned in edges as shown. BVM Page 50 1/15/2010

55 Use plastic tape on the outside of the inlets where we just used the Dremel tool. Now, apply BVM Aeropoxy here to fill these gaps. Also, make a small fillet of glue anywhere the two inlets contact each other. Apply BVM Aeropoxy to the EVF mount-to-fuse joint and inlet-to-motor mount ring joint. The foam block supplied with the kit will sit beneath the EVF unit and acts as a shock mount. Upon final mounting of the EVF, fit the block under the EVF. The block may need to be sanded slightly for a good fit. It should be just snug under the EVF. It can be spot glued in with 5 minute epoxy. Turned in edges FINAL ASSEMBLY MOUNTINGTHE VERTICAL FIN Part 2 Sand the base of the rudder as shown using #180 grit on a solid block. Test fit on the fuselage and repeat until sufficient rudder travel is achieved. See Control Travels Section. Use masking tape to protect the visible painted surfaces. Use #80 grit to sand areas of contact as shown. DO NOT sand the area aft of the protruding fin spar. After thoroughly checking alignment of the fin, Use 30-minute epoxy to glue it to the model. Be sure to get enough epoxy into the spar cavity and make sure it is vertical. Use a ruler to measure from a fixed position on each stab to the tip of the vertical fin. Use masking tape to hold it vertical until the glue cures. DO NOT SAND BVM Page 51 1/15/2010

56 SECURING THE WINGS NOTE: The 6-32 x ½ SHCS must penetrate the forward blade spar to assure a secure wing retention. Mount wings on model and install bolts into the 4 inserts: (2) 6-32 x ¼ SHCS on the rear spar and (2) 6-32 x ½ SHCS on the front spar. Tighten bolts to mark spar drill location. Loosen bolts and remove wings. Measure the position of bolt imprint on the front spar only and transfer that location to front side of spar. This is necessary to drill the inboard bolt hole through spar. Use 1/16 carbide cutter to start hole through CF blade spar. Increase size of hole with 3/32 drill bit. Finish hole with #28 (.1405 ) drill bit. A #28 bit is correct size bit for hole through blade spar. However, a 5/32 drill bit could be used if #28 is not available. In this case, drill directly on transferred mark, not biased toward root rib as per note below. NOTE: When starting hole with carbide cutter, use outboard edge of pencil mark, ever so slightly moving hole toward root rib of wing. This will ensure a tight wing root joint to fuselage as wing bolts are installed. Install wings and all 4 wing bolts. Check wings for fit and tightness. Any excess play up and down can be minimized by applying thick CA to top and bottom of CF blade spars 1/2 from wing root rib. Block sand to achieve firm fit in wing spar channel. Apply AeroPoxy to the bottom of the (4) brackets to securely glue them to the formers. NOTE: DO NOT apply AeroPoxy to the top of the brackets. The 1/16 ply battery shelf is glued to the tops of these formers. BVM Page 52 1/15/2010

57 BOTTOM HATCH For Servo-Operated Retracts (See plans) After the retract servo and F5 is installed, glue formers F5A into position as shown. The F5A formers are butt glued to F6; they are NOT glued to the carbon wing plug-in channels. NOTE: Hatch support strips are cut from.015 x 3/8 poly ply and applied per plans. Use #80 grit on the poly ply and inside edge of the fuselage and hatch to thoroughly scuff the surfaces. Note that the hatch cover receives six (6) tabs, three front and three rear, the rest are located inside the fuselage as shown at right. Use ZAP-A-GAP to secure tabs into position. Glue scrap ply pieces onto the F5As as shown and trim in height as necessary for a flush fit of the hatch to the fuselage. Install the hatch cover into position. Drill through the hatch at the locations shown with a 1/16 bit and install two (2) #2 x 3/8 domed SHS. NOTE: The bottom hatch must be flexed to install. For Air/ Blue Retracts Cut and glue the polyply tabs as described above. Cut (2) ¾ long blocks from the 3/8 x ½ maple strip provided. Glue these block to the front side of the rear wing mount (F6) with ZAP-A-GAP. Drill 1/16 pilot holes in the center of the blocks as shown. Install the (2) #2 x 3/8 domed SHS. DRILL 1/16 HOLES Use the rudder servo cover plate as a reference when marking the hole locations on the bottom hatch. Stick a piece of tape to the inside surface of the bottom hatch and apply black ink to the screw heads. Put the hatch in place and lightly press against the screws so the ink will rub off on the tap. Drill 1/16 holes at the marked locations. BVM Page 53 1/15/2010

58 AIR BLUE MAIN GEAR RETRACTION Make left and right main struts by first cutting them to proper length, then silver soldering the brass upper fittings and BVM axles as shown on the wing plan. IMPORTANT NOTE: The distances from the coil to the top of the brass fitting and from the coil to the axle are crucial for the proper fit and operation of the gear. Install the retract unit using (4) #4 x 1/2 flat head wood screws. Flex Plate may need to be trimmed to fit. Cut 15 long pieces of gray, red tubing, and clear brake tubing. Secure the gray and red tubing to the air cylinder nipples with safety wire as shown. Secure the red tube to the retract with tape. NOTE: Use a cigarette lighter to warm the end of the air tubing and a bit of saliva on the fitting to assist in putting the tubing onto the nipples. Safety wire the clear brake line to the brake hub then secure it to the strut with aluminum tape. The brake line passes through a 1/8 hole in the retract mount flange. Leave slack between the 1/8 hole and where the brake line is taped to the strut. Using a Dremel carbide cutter and drum sander, remove the material outlined by black marker to allow the landing gear to retract. Some models will need the following modification: Use a Perma- Grit ball end cutter and Dremel drum sander to enlarge the slot in the #3 rib to accept the retract unit and strut. BVM Page 54 1/15/2010

59 Route the air lines through the wing to exit forward of the front blade spar. Use (4) 4-40 x ½ Flat HD screws to fasten the main gear retract to the Flexplate. Use a 7/64 L wrench to securely tighten the strut clamp after properly aligning the wheel. Proper alignment is 0º to 1º of toe-in. Cut the air tubing so about 2 hangs out of the lightening hole in the wing root. Attach Quick Disconnects to the air lines. Air Blue Main Landing Gear Cover Plate and Strut Door Installation For 3/16 Wire Struts or Pro-Link Struts Note: The inclusion and proper fitting of the landing gear cover panels and strut doors are an important asset to the overall performance of your Electra. Reduced parasite drag translates into more flight time, vertical performance, speed, and reduced battery amperage consumption. Preparation and Attachment of Cover Plate Note: The Air Blue retract units should be installed in the model with the pneumatic system operable. Trial fit the cover plate into the recess flange on the wing bottoms. Sand the backside of the perimeter of the landing gear cover plate about ½ inboard with a #80 grit sanding block. Do this on a piece of cardboard to prevent scratching the painted surface. Adjust the perimeter edge until the panel fits nicely into the recess. BVM Page 55 1/15/2010

60 Use a 1/16 drill bit to transfer the holes in the cover plate to the recessed flange. Use a Perma-Grit Small Ultra Fine Countersink BVM# RF9UF and a Dremel Rotary Tool at low RPM to countersink the cover plate holes. This will allow the Phillips panel screws to seat flush with the cover plate. Make a left and right strut door stiffener by orienting the 1/16 ply parts as shown in the photo. Use Zap-A-Gap to glue the 1/16 ply doublers into position. The laser cut holes help align the parts. Scuff the backside of the fiberglass strut doors using #80 grit sandpaper. Be sure not to break the tabbed-on piece off, as it will be used at a later time. Cut a plastic key card in half and apply a single layer of masking tape to both sides of each half. This will produce a.040 thin shim. Work on a sheet of wax paper. Place the cards about ¼ inboard of the door edges as shown. Apply Zap-A-Gap to the 1/16 ply skin and carefully position it onto the fiberglass skin. Push down on the center axis of the strut door as shown until the glue cures. The curved door will now approximate the curve of the wing airfoil. Bevel the edges of the strut door inboard such that if there is any misalignment, the door will self-guide into the opening of the wing. Note: This part was spray-painted with Model Master Gunship Gray and then we beveled the edges Attach the brake line (If brakes are employed) to the strut in two places with aluminum tape as shown. Use a #409 cut-off disc to create a notch in the brake hub for the brake line to be routed through. This routing is necessary to allow the brake line to not interfere with the strut door. Affix the strut door onto the Air Blue retract unit using (2) 2-56 x ¼. Retract the gear and mark the outline of the strut door onto the wing using a fine point pen. BVM Page 56 1/15/2010

61 Use a Dremel Rotary tool with a cutting disc and then a 1/16 carbide cutter to rough-cut the outline use a sanding drum to accomplish the fine work. Remove only the wing skin, don t remove the ribs, as they will hold the strut door flush to the wing in the retracted position. A small sanding block can be used to remove any excess materials on top of the ribs. Operate the gear a few times to verify that the cutout is correct. Now the tabbed-on section can be removed. Use curved scissors to remove the fiberglass washer from the tabbed-on part. Block sand any excess material that is left on the strut door and deburr the fiberglass washer. Attaching Strut Door to 3/16 Wire Struts Hold the cover plate in place while the gear is in the retracted position. Check for any overlap between the strut door and landing gear cover plate. Block sand these areas from the cover plate, not the strut door. Now operate the gear to fine tune the 1/32 perimeter clearance between the strut door and cover plate. Install the cover plate with the (9) panel screws. Double-check the operation of the gear. The strut door or cover plate may still need a few minor adjustments. Use a BVM scuff board to sand down the 1/16 ply doubler so that the strut door retracts flush or below the wing s surface. If too much material is removed, shim the doubler up using Zap-A-Gap. Note: There will be a small amount of play in the retract up lock, make adjustments while fitting the door such that when the wing is right side up, the door is flush with the bottom skin. It may require a poly ply shim under the outboard mounting flange to achieve a perfect flush fit. Make a notch in the leading edge rib closest to the wheel well using a Perma-Grit Coarse Rotary Pancake BVM# RF4C. This is for the brake line to be routed through and will allow the line to not interfere with the flush fit of the strut door. Remove the 6-32 set screw in the strut s boss and install the 6-32 x 3/16 pan head screw along with the fiberglass washer as shown. Note: Heat the setscrew a bit and use a high quality hex driver to remove it. Note: The 6-32 x 3/16 Phillips screw should be adjusted to hold the strut door to the axle boss but still allow the strut to flex fore and aft in relation to the door. Use BVM #5784 Wheel Grease and affix the wheel to the axle with a nylon washer a steel E-clip. BVM Page 57 1/15/2010

62 Completed wire strut door attachment from inboard view with wheel removed. Outboard view with wheel Attaching the Strut Door to Pro-Link Struts Hold the cover plate in place while the gear is in the retracted position. Check for any overlap between the strut door and landing gear cover plate. Block sand these areas from the cover plate, not the strut door. Now operate the gear to fine tune the 1/32 perimeter clearance between the strut door and cover plate. Install the cover plate with the (9) panel screws. Double-check the operation of the gear. The strut door or cover plate may still need a few minor adjustments. Use a BVM scuff board to sand down the 1/16 ply doubler so that the strut door retracts flush or below the wing s surface. If too much material is removed, shim the doubler up using Zap-A-Gap. Note: There will be a small amount of play in the retract up lock, make adjustments while fitting the door such that when the wing is right side up, the door is flush with the bottom skin. It may require a poly ply shim under the outboard mounting flange to achieve a perfect flush fit. Remove the door from the Air Blue retract unit. Use a straight edge and a fine-point pen to mark the fiberglass door across the top of the router cut slot as shown. Cut, block sand, and bevel the bottom edge. Drill a 3/32 hole through the fiberglass strut door. Re-install the strut door onto the Air Blue retract unit. Use the 2-56 x 3/8 SHDS to attach the strut door to the Pro-Link strut. Adjust this bolt such that the door closes properly into the wing for a flush fit. It must also allow the strut action to take place without scoring excessively the door panel. Carefully retract the gear to see where the strut is going to contact any of the wing s ribs. Trim these areas away using a Dremel Rotary tool and a drum sander. BVM Page 58 1/15/2010

63 Safety wire the airline to the brass nipple on the brake hub. Use BVM# 5787 Wheel Grease and affix the wheel to the axle with a nylon washer and a steel E-clip. Inboard view with wheel removed. Use aluminum tape (or similar) to attach the brake line to Outboard view of the completed door installation. SERVO-OPERATED MAIN GEAR RETRACTION Make left and right main struts by first cutting them to proper length, then silver soldering the brass upper fittings and BVM axles as shown on the wing plan. IMPORTANT NOTE: The distances from the coil to the top of the brass fitting and from the coil to the axle are crucial for the proper fit and operation of the gear. Install the retract unit using (4) #4 x 1/2 flat head wood screws. Flex Plate may need to be trimmed to fit. Place the strut into the retract unit and tighten the cinch bolt at the base to retain it. Install the gear bay cover and make sure that the strut passes through the opening without interference. Upon final installation of the main strut, apply a small amount of lube to the pivot shaft inside the main retract unit. Place a 2.25 tire onto the axle and with the gear in the extended position; adjust the tire to have approximately ½º - 1º of toe-in. Hold main strut above the BVM Page 59 1/15/2010

64 pivot shaft. (This prevents the upper fitting from rubbing the pivot shaft.) Then retighten the cinch block. Using a Dremel carbide cutter and drum sander, remove the material outlined by black marker to allow the landing gear to retract. Retract the strut and make sure that the tire, as well as the coil and strut, fits through the opening. Make any adjustments necessary until a sufficient clearance fit is obtained. NOTE: The factory prototypes operate with Dubro 2.25 main wheels and have been flown off a typical grass field without any problem. The wheel wells, gear bay cover and strut doors are all designed for 2.25 main wheels. The BVM supplied wheels have been drilled to fit the axles. MAIN GEAR COVER PLATES AND STRUT INSTALLATION Block sand the edges of the main gear door bay covers to fit comfortably into the recessed pocket. Use a 1/16 drill bit to transfer holes to pocket flange. Install the gear door cover and wheel. Test fit the wheel and strut in the wheel opening. Trim as needed. Bevel the edges of the 1/8 ply strut door reinforcers. The reinforcer is not glued to the strut door in this step. It is shown in this manner for clarity. Attach the strut door reinforcers to the landing gear with 4-40 button head screws. Center the door reinforcers in the wheel well opening. Install the nylon bracket next to the square axle block as shown. Trim the outboard end of the fiberglass door to fit the inside of the main retract unit in the gear down position. This involves the outboard end and fore and aft edges. Shim the axle up to keep the door slightly off the wing skin. Affix the F/G door the to the ply reinforcer with 4-40 BHSHS. Align the F/G door to properly cover the wheel well opening. Remove the screw and apply epoxy glue to the plywood and tape the strut door into position to cure. NOTE: The bottom skin is the gear up travel limit when the strut door is firmly fitted. A firm down lock is the other travel limit. Trim the landing gear bay cover plate to allow the strut door to fully extend without touching the cover plate. BVM Page 60 1/15/2010

65 Install the wheel and nylon washer on the inside and the E- clip on the outside. Use axle grease (BVM #5784) to lubricate the axles. For less aerodynamic drag, bevel the edges of the main gear doors with a Dremel using a small sanding drum. Clean up with a small block with #180 sandpaper. BVM has 1oz bottles of touch-up paint and hardener in stock for all Electra colors. A red sharpie also works well for this All American scheme. NOTE: Close fitting doors are important to efficient, low drag flight. If the strut gets bent and the door does not close flush, the resulting drag can be heard on a fly-by and of course the speed of the model is degraded. For grass field operation, remove ¾ from the bottom of strut door. Additional strut door parts are available from BVM. MAIN GEAR SERVO MOUNTING Required items: Electra retracts, struts, wheels and JR 791 servo. Construct the main gear pushrods as described below and shown on the plans. All of the parts for constructing the pushrods and connecting them to the servo are included in the retract install package. NOTE: BVM has an optional package (#PA-SR-0018) that contains a metal servo arm (with BVM drilled holes) for the main gear retracts. Use the JR 791 servo as a guide to drill 1/16 holes in the carbon fiber mounts. Attach the servo with #2 x 7/16 socket head screws Drill a 3/32 hole in the center of the arm directly over the C section of the mount as shown. Tack glue F5 (two pieces laminated) as located on plans. BVM Page 61 1/15/2010

66 Locate the round JR servo wheel supplied with the servo that matches the drawing on the fuselage plans. Mount two (2) ball ends onto the wheel s outermost predrilled holes using two (2) 2-56 nuts, use thread locker. Connect the servo into the receiver and turn everything on. Operate the gear switch noting the rotation of the output. From the top view of the servo (see plans), activating Gear Up should yield Counter Clockwise rotation. If not, activate the reverse function on the gear channel. Set the servo wheel onto the servo in the stopped, Gear Down position as shown on the plans. Place the servo into position on F5 but do not drill for the screws as yet. Orient the servo such that the servo wheel is at the center of the fuselage. The orientation of the servo body itself does not matter as long as the rotation and placement have been set as described. BVM Page 62 1/15/2010

67 Construct the main gear retraction pushrods as shown on the plans. The dimension of is the length from the tip of the clevis to the tip of the Sullivan spring ball connector when they are set in the center of their adjustment. This allows adjustment of each pushrod by at least 3/8 if necessary. Use Stay-Brite silver solder (BVM part # 5786) for all soldering. Begin by cutting the 5/32 x 12 square brass tube into (2) 6 Lengths. Cut each of the.062 x 9 music wires to exactly 7.7. NOTE: Use Stay-Brite silver solder and flux BVM #5786. Solder a threaded coupler on one end of each of the 7.7 long music wires then slide a section of the brass tube onto each wire. Solder the second threaded coupler onto the other end of each of the pushrods. Center the brass between the threaded couplers and solder to the music wire at both ends. The Pushrods are identical make radius bends to them as shown on plans. LINKAGE INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT The over-riding factor in the proper retraction and down locking of the gear is that that there is always pressure on the actuation arm of the retract unit. This is accomplished with the proper servo and output wheel as described above, yielding more throw to the actuation arm than is required. This additional travel is absorbed into the pushrods. As the gear flexes through normal landing loads, the retract unit can twist and flex. If the pushrod is not properly loaded and the gear flexes inboard, a failure can occur. For this reason it is necessary to pre-load the linkage. Attach the clevis side of the pushrod to the main retract units. The clevis connects to the inner most hole of the actuating arm. Mount the gear to the Flex Plates and install the wings onto the model. The pushrods should orient to the servo output wheel in the fuselage. BVM Page 63 1/15/2010

68 With both wings on, locate the servo directly between the two Sullivan spring ball keepers. (This should be very close to the centerline of the model) Then drill 1/16 holes and install (2) #2 x 7/16 SHS affixing the servo to F5. Flex the strut inboard while engaging the ball keeper With the gear fully extended and the servo in the Gear Down position, adjust each pushrod to be approximately 1/8 longer than where the ball should engage the keeper this is the preload. Pull back the guard on the spring keeper and install both links into position on their respective balls. With the servo connected to the radio, operate the gear and note the movement of the pushrods. As the gear reaches full extension, the servo should continue to rotate to the horizontal. This should cause the pushrods to bow and even F5 will begin to twist ever so slightly. The gear should retract fully into the wells. If the doors are attached to the struts, they should be tight against the bottom of the wing. Adjust the linkage until the above conditions have been met. In the down position, apply pressure to the tire forcing it inwards and down and make sure the gear does not unlock. Also check that when the locking link is pushed (see arrow right) it always returns to the fully locked position. AIR/ BLUE NOSE GEAR RETRACTION Use 4-40 x ½ Flat HD screws to fasten the nose gear retract to the Flexplate. Assemble the air selection valve and its mount according to the plans. Attach it to the fuselage wall with doublesided Velcro strips. The button valve actuates the brakes. Use an AUX3-to-Gear mix allowing the side lever to control the ON/OFF of the brakes. For proportional brakes, install an optional BVM Smooth Stop. BVM Page 64 1/15/2010

69 Use the Air Diagram to set up the air system. Use safety wires to secure the tubing to the retract air cylinder. The Fill Valve rests inside the fuselage. Use a piece of tubing that is long enough so the Fill Valve can be easily accessed. Wrap the air storage tank in foam and install it in the nose. This is the bottom view of the nose retract unit with door details. BVM Page 65 1/15/2010

70 SERVO-OPERATED NOSE GEAR RETRACTION The nose gear retraction setup is similar to the main gear in that, the proper servo output arm and its positioning provide the correct amount of pre-load to the gear when extended as well as enough throw to close the door as the tire enters the gear bay. Use the Hanger 9 aluminum servo arm part # HAN 3531 included in the landing gear system. Unlike the main gear retract servo, the nose retract servo outputs through a single arm, thus it is more susceptible to bending. Extensive testing has found that a plastic servo arm WILL fail. Install the nose gear retract and steering servos and make up the pushrods as shown on the plans. Having already set up the main gear retraction sequence, the servo rotation is already set; it rotates counter clockwise to actuate the gear to the up position. Bolt a 2-56 ball and hex nut onto the Hanger 9 servo arm at the center location (1/2 of throw). Connect the servo, turn on the radio and select Gear Up. Now place the horn onto the output shaft pointing aft. The clevis end of the retract pushrod goes on the outermost hole of the retract actuation arm. Adjust the length of the pushrod to be slightly longer (approx. 1/16 ) than where the keeper engages the ball on the output arm. Flex the nose strut aft and up to accomplish the preload. Adjust the pushrod to fit under this load. Cycle the gear through extension and retraction noting a good solid Down lock and retracting well into the gear bay. Adjust the pushrod until it just begins to bow after the gear goes into down lock. NOSE GEAR STEERING LINKAGE Assemble the steering linkage according to the plans. Center the nose steering servo. Install output arm, then connect and adjust the steering pushrod. NOTE: Release rudder (nose gear steering) input during retraction and extension cycles to allow the nose gear unit to function properly. BVM Page 66 1/15/2010

71 NOSE GEAR DOORS Electra ARF Begin by setting up the rear nose gear door first. Deactivate the nose door spring by removing the screw at the adjustment base, rotate the spring s arm up out of the way and tape it to the side of the fuselage. Turn on the radio and retract the nose gear under servo power alone making sure that the plywood motion transfer arm is resting on top of the nose strut. Insert the.047 door pushrod into the EZ connector on the transfer arm while holding the door tightly closed then tighten the 4-40 x 3/16 SHCS. Operate the gear with radio on through the extension then back to the retraction cycle allowing the nose strut to activate the nose door. Note the door position, if necessary; re-adjust the door activation by loosening the bolt and sliding the activation wire just a little more into the EZ connector. Do not make the adjustment too short, as this will cause the door to hit the tire as it retracts, keeping the door from closing completely. Make small adjustments until the door closes tightly upon retraction. Allow the nose door torque spring to rest upon the 4-40 bolt in the EZ connector and re-install the screw at the adjustment plate. Adjust the spring to have just enough pressure on the transfer arm to open and hold the door out away from the strut. NOTE: Too much tension on this spring will affect the closing of the door. The activation of the forward door requires attachment of the spring to the strut using the supplied 2-inch piece of safety wire. Do not twist the wire too tight. The spring must be able to slide up and down the strut as it retracts and extends. Adjust the wire accordingly. BVM Page 67 1/15/2010

72 NOTE: Except for a few early kits, the following 4 steps should not be required. They have been accomplished by BVM. Electra ARF ENGINE HATCH Note: It is helpful to have an assistant hold the fuselage while fitting and adjusting the hatch edges. Remove only very small amounts of material at a time. Use a flat sanding block with #180 grit paper to square up the aft edge. Test fit to fuselage while doing so. Proceed to the forward end of the hatch and adjust the mating surfaces there. Use a strip of paper between the hatch and fuselage to locate the tight spots. After the ends fit as good as possible, use a piece of sand paper (#180-#220 grit) to lap the side edges. Check to see if the plywood frame is interfering with the fuselage flange and use a Dremel drum sander to trim if necessary. Scuff sand the set of 4 half-moon poly ply tabs with a BVM scuff board. Cut them apart and sand edges. Glue one half moon tab to the slot in the engine hatch frame 1/16 deep. BVM Page 68 1/15/2010

73 Apply tape to the fuselage where the half-moon tab will penetrate. Apply ink from a black marker to the edge of the half-moon tab. Set the engine hatch on the fuselage. Allow the edge of the tab to transfer the black ink to the tape. Cut slot with a #409 Dremel disk. Repeat previous step for the remaining three tabs. Fit one at a time. If the hatch piece needs adjustment in width, first accurately measure it, then when the brace is installed, pinch or spread it as necessary (about.050 ) and CA it to the plywood framework. Test fit to the fuselage. When correct, secure it properly to the hatch skin with epoxy. The engine hatch is held in place on the model by the canopy hatch. Note: Properly accomplished, good fitting hatches appear as scale-like panel lines BVM Page 69 1/15/2010

74 CANOPY HATCH Cut out the small opening at the back of the engine hatch. Use a 1/8 carbide bit and Perma-Grit flat file. Make sure that the inside of the fiberglass fuselage directly behind the previously made cutout is thoroughly scuffed, as a piece of material will be installed there later. The canopy of the Electra is unique in that it slides on from the front to the back. If you have built a BVM jet in the past, be aware that this is unique to this model. Note: By installing one hook at a time the proper canopy frame fit to the fuse should be very well aligned. Tape the engine hatch firmly into position so that the canopy hatch can be fitted. Tape the canopy hatch firmly in position with the rear of the canopy hatch butted up to the fuse. Use a pointy instrument to scribe one of the canopy hook slots onto the fuse. (See Photo) Remove the canopy hatch and lengthen the front scribe mark by ¼ to allow for the canopy hatch s sliding action. Use either a Dremel #409 disc or 1/16 carbide cutter to cut out the slot. Use a small flat Perma-Grit file to do the fine work. Install a canopy hook into the corresponding slot of the 1/16 ply canopy rail using CA. The hook points to the rear and should be all the way forward in the slot. Test fit the canopy hatch onto the fuse. Make any needed adjustments to the slot at this time. Repeat this process for the remaining 3 hooks. NOTE: The left-to-right fit can be adjusted by fitting one side of the slot and/or applying coats of thick CA to the appropriate side of the Canopy Hooks. Install the ply hatch tab F8A centered into the slot in the canopy framework with ZAP-A-GAP. Some triangle stock can be glued around the ply for reinforcement (see plans). Place the canopy hatch back onto the model. The ply tab should pass through the slot at the back without interference. Trim the lower edge if necessary to make the piece fit. Tape the canopy hatch securely in place. BVM Page 70 1/15/2010

75 Caution: The canopy frame is of very lightweight fiberglass structure, support the model on soft foam rubber for the next procedure. Turn the model over and, working through the bottom hatch, glue the ply former F8 into position over F8A. To avoid gluing the parts together, lightly glue F8 at first, then after removing the canopy further reinforce the bond. Before proceeding, insure that the canopy hatch fits correctly. Glue front Canopy Hook with ZAP-A-GAP into the front slot in the canopy hatch plywood frame. The hook points to the rear. The hook should be all the way forward in the slot. Place the removable poly-ply hook retainer plate 0.3 aft of the fuselage-canopy parting line (highlighted with the blue 1/8 tape) centered left-to-right and mark through the (4) holes. Remove poly ply and drill (4) holes 1/16. Install poly ply hook retainer plate under the fuselage flange with (4) #2 x 3/8 BHSMS. Cutout fuselage to match slot in the poly ply plate. NOTE: The left-to-right fit can be adjusted by filing one side of the slot and/or applying coats of thick CA to the appropriate side of the Canopy Hooks. BVM Page 71 1/15/2010

76 Open the hole and slot at the Hatch Latch pin location on the right side of the fuselage using Perma-Grit files. Trial fit the Hatch Latch pin into position. Ensure that both the hatch slider and the pin itself are not binding with the fiberglass as well as having at least 1/4 of the pin protruding above the fiberglass flange. Tack the Hatch Latch pin in place with 5-minute epoxy then glue around the flanges of the Hatch Latch with AeroPoxy. With the Hatch Latch mounted, hold the release pin in the release position, and slide the canopy onto the model ensuring it is all the way against the fuselage at the back. Note where the Hatch Latch pin contacts the bottom of the canopy framework (Release, allow the pin to dimple the bottom of the plywood hatch frame). Remove the canopy and drill 3/32 hole at this location. Reinstall the canopy and ensure that the hatch pin extends freely through the hole. Adjust the hole with a Perma-Grit file if necessary. From the supplied.015 x 3/8 poly ply strip, cut a piece 2 long. Sand the poly ply with 80-grit and glue with the pin release hole centered on the strip. Redrill the hole for the release pin through the poly ply strip. Hold a straight edge across the canopy hatch over the poly ply strip as shown. If there is room for another poly ply strip under the straight edge, repeat previous step. NOTE: Usually two strips of poly ply are required for good Hatch Latch pin engagement. The canopy installation is automatic. When the five canopy hooks are engaged and the canopy is slid back, the poly ply will depress the hatch pin until it engages the hole. Always check the full engagement of hatch latch pin before flight. As a final fitting procedure use a piece of #220 grit sand paper (grit up) slid between the fuse flange and hatch and lap-in any tight spots for a relaxed fit of the hatch to the fuse. Apply the same technique to the main engine hatch. BVM Page 72 1/15/2010

77 COCKPIT AND CLEAR CANOPY Electra ARF The final mounting of the canopy and cockpit deck will be completed after all paintwork and gearing-up of the model. Trim the clear plastic canopy per molded-in line. Use curved plastic scissors, then a sanding block to smooth the cut edges. Cut ¼ off of the bottom of the 1/8 balsa seat back and trim the plastic seat at the demarcation line. Place the balsa seat back into the plastic seat noting the bottom edge of the balsa. Cut the bottom of the plastic seat at this line with about a 15º slant. This will allow the seat to lean back properly in the cockpit tub. Glue the balsa piece into the plastic seat Trim the bottom flange from the cockpit deck along the demarcation lines and the arches on either end of the deck. Trial fit into the canopy frame. Trim as necessary to get a good fit. Place the seat into the cockpit tub. The seat should not extend more than 1/8 above the raised area behind it. Cut sections of the yellow plastic heat shrink to approximately ¼. Cut the black O ring and slide the yellow sections on, spacing them evenly as shown. Use a heat gun to shrink them in place. Make two holes at the top of the ejection seat just big enough to fit the ends of O ring. Install the O ring after the seat is painted. The cockpits on the factory models are painted with Model Master paints. BVM sprays the cockpit tub with flat black or a dark gray, then paint the ejection seat a lighter gray or silver. Use silver to dry brush the forward deck and area behind the ejection seat to simulate a weathered look. BVM Page 73 1/15/2010

78 After painting, apply the instrument panel, glue the ejection pull ring into the seat back with medium CA and glue the seat to the cockpit tub with Epoxy or ZAP-A-DAP-A-GOO. Trim the pilot as shown and glue in place. Trim the clear canopy and tape it to the fiberglass canopy frame. Tack glue the canopy at the front, rear and two spots on each side with 5-minute epoxy. Re-install on the model while the epoxy cures. This will make the hatch fit perfect. Be sure to follow this step as it is very crucial for the canopy hatch-to-fuse fit. Cover the seam from inside with PACER Canopy Glue. Allow one side to tack before gluing the other side. Allow entire canopy to set overnight. The cockpit tub sits above the ply canopy rails and can be held in place with tape or a small amount of Zap-A-Goo. Stab Tip Skidz Cut the Skidz apart and use either a scuff board or #80 grit sand paper to deburr the parts. Use #120 grit sandpaper to thoroughly sand the tips where the skidz will be placed. Apply Slo-Zap to the skidz and carefully place onto the stab. Repeat this process for the aileron tips. COMPLETING THE MODEL GENERAL GUIDELINES GEARING UP After finishing the model, reinstall any equipment that has been removed, ensuring that everything is properly rigged. Use the radio to center any servos not already set up, and rig the control surfaces for neutral. (See control travel section. Ensure that all keepers and set screws are in place and thread-locked as needed BVM Page 74 1/15/2010

79 DX7 RECEIVER LOCATION Locate the receiver on top of the receiver tray behind the switch. On the factory models, we use the new Spektrum 7 channel radio. The antennas are located within the forward compartment, in front of the inlets. For a conventional radio (72-Mhz), use a whip style antenna. IMPORTANT: Regardless of what radio setup is used, always perform a full and complete range check with the EVF in the model and running. More on this procedure is covered in the instructions included with the EVF. Do not attempt to fly the model without a successful motor running range check. RECEIVER BATTERY Note: The factory models (10S and 12S powered), balance perfectly with a 2-cell 1600mah Lipo battery pack in the nose. This size battery works well with the Electra and allows three flights between charging. Check the MAH used after the first flight. LANDING GEAR FINAL CHECK Double-check the operation and function of the landing gear prior to the first taxi test or trip to the field. At the time of this writing, the two factory models have completed 80+ flights from grass and pavement without a single gear failure. EVF AND BATTERY INSTALLATION The EVF is held in the model with the four (4) 4-40 bolts as described earlier. The batteries are held in the model with Velcro (hook and loop material), on the bottom and sides of the battery. A single 2 strip of loop material (fuzzy) at the center of the bottom edge of the battery and a 2 strip of hook material (rough) just below the top outside edge. By standardizing the positioning of the individual material in this manner the batteries will fit on either side of the model. This is very helpful when you have multiple sets of batteries. NOTE: Glue the two (2) 1/16 plywood battery shelves Into position on top of the main spar assemblies (see plans) with epoxy. Install the EVF into position. Turn the fan blades by hand listening for any rubbing on the inlets. If there is any interference, note where the parts are touching, remove the EVF and sand away the problem areas. Vacuum any loose materials from within the fuselage, reinstall the EVF, and check again. IMPORTANT: Before final mounting of the EVF, be sure the foam shock mount block has been fitted beneath the fan shroud. BVM Page 75 1/15/2010

80 2s2p Battery Installation The 2s2p pack will fit under the fan mount and along side the fan shroud. Use a ball end Perma-Grit rotary cutter #RF8C to bevel the aft edge of the fan mounting rail and the top forward edge of the saddle cell platform. Protect the exposed edges of the pack by applying adhesive backed fuzzy Velcro to both surfaces, and then insert the booster pack under the fan mount rail. INSTALLING THE TAILPIPE Follow the instructions that come with the tailpipe assembly. CONTROL TRAVEL AND CG The CG is located 7.6 Inches aft of L.E. at root chord on the bottom fuselage fairing. ELEVATOR (Measure at root T.E.) UP High Rate = 1 Low Rate =.8 DOWN High Rate =.9 Low Rate =.6 RUDDER (Measure at root T.E.) LEFT 1.25 or more RIGHT 1.25 or more AILERON (Measure at outboard tip) UP High Rate =.5 Low Rate =.35 DOWN High Rate =.45 Low Rate =.3 FLAPS (Measured at inboard T.E.) TAKEOFF 1.2 Down LANDING 2.5 Down BVM Page 76 1/15/2010

81 HIGH WIND LANDING* 2.0 Down *Reset in transmitter when wind is 15 MPH or more FIRST RUN AND TAXI TEST IMPORTANT: Before running the motor for the first time, read and fully understand the safe operation and set up of the EVF as described in the instructions that came with the unit. For the first run, have a helper secure the model ensuring that they are clear of the intakes. Trim the throttle until the motors begins to run at low idle. Listen carefully for any abnormal sounds, if you hear something, shut the motor down and inspect. While restrained, run the motor for a few moments getting used to the throttle response. Remember that the Electra does not have brakes, so for the first taxi test keep this in mind as you taxi the model. Note any tendency for the model to drift and adjust the nose gear steering. If you haven t performed a thorough and complete range check with the fan running, do so now. Have a helper secure the model. The Jet Take-Off When the propulsion force is applied at the rear of a vehicle, it is destabilizing. The slower the forward speed, and the higher the thrust-to-weight ratio, the more problematic this effect is. A high powered model jet during the early stages of taking off is exemplary of this phenomena. The Proper Technique A narrow, paved runway that has obstructions on the sides requires the best techniques. The first flights should be made in light wind conditions and preferably little or no crosswind. With good piloting techniques, most jets will handle a 10-15mph crosswind, but save that for later. Set the wing flaps to the take-off position and taxi into the take-off position on the centerline and nose into the wind. Apply about 1/2 up elevator, release the brakes and slowly advance the throttle to about the 1/2 position. Direction control is primary, first with nose gear steering, and then as the speed increases, the primary control is with the rudder. Once the rudder authority is dominate and the model is headed straight down the runway, advance the throttle to full power. The model will lift off when it has sufficient airspeed. Retract the gear and climb to a safe altitude and then retract the flaps. For the first flight, keep the airspeed at a medium level and concentrate on trimming the model and deciding whether or not the center of gravity is optimum. The published C.G.'s for BVMJets is on the conservative side - a place to start. You may want to ease it back on subsequent flights. BVM Page 77 1/15/2010

82 FIRST FLIGHT PROFILE To start with, you cannot takeoff and fly for 5 minutes at full power, this would ruin the LiPo batteries and make for a very expensive flight. There is a given amount of energy stored in the batteries. An ideal flight profile will consume about 80% of the battery capacity. For a 5,000mah system, the ideal flight would consume 4,000mah and the battery temperature would be F at the end of the flight. The battery manufacturers consider these numbers to be safe and one should expect a high cycle life when staying within these parameters. WARNING: Immediately after each flight, disconnect the fan power batteries from the ESC. If this procedure is not followed, the ESC will continue to draw a small amount of current from the batteries eventually depleting them below minimum voltage and ruin the entire set of packs During the development of the EVF and the Electra Jet, we have made flights that consumed 90% of the available amperage and have seen battery temps of 140 F. The subject batteries are still performing per spec. Because the factory team uses multiple sets of batteries, the cycle life of these hard-pressed cells will not be known for some time. So, to stay within the 80% margin, make the first flights according to the profile suggested here, recharge the batteries, then make time and power usage adjustments accordingly. Transmitter travel adjust settings: Throttle ATV (DX-7 radio) High 85% Low 75% These values will vary with type of radio. The H setting should be such that when the throttle is reduced from the full power position that there is a corresponding reduction in fan rpm. The L setting can be adjusted such that at the mid throttle trim position, the fan is running at its lowest rpm and will turn off by reducing the trim a bit more. This allows the fan to be an air brake for landing touchdown and roll out. We have experimented with using a throttle-to-throttle mix at the full throttle position to help conserve the batteries and this is an option, but most pilots prefer not to bother with this and simply learn to use the power lever (throttle) as required. How do you know that your EVF is putting out its maximum potential at full throttle? It is a sound that you get used to hearing. You can also use a push scale such as shown in the EVF brochure. The installed thrust will vary with model type and ambient conditions. For an Electra, expect pounds of thrust from a 4010 system, for a BVM F-86, expect pounds of thrust. Always check the battery pack voltage before a flight. A 5S1P Saddle Cell should register 21±.2 volts. A 6S1P Saddle Cell should register 25±.2 volts. For the first flight pick a low wind day, set the transmitter timer to 3:30. Start the timer at the beginning of the take-off roll. Plan to touch down at 3 minutes 30 seconds. At seconds after lift-off, reduce throttle to ¾ position for a cruise climb with gear and flaps up. During the flight, use a 50/50 mix of full throttle for high-speed passes and vertical maneuvers, and half throttle for cruising fly-bys and turnarounds. The landing pattern can be flown with half throttle, gear and flaps down and then power off for the final glide path and flared touchdown. Motor off descents help to conserve. NOTE: Grass field operation will consume more power for taxing out and back. NOTE: The EVF does not require a low throttle cool down after landing and taxi back. With experience and flight profile adjustment, flight time will increase according to battery capacity. 5 ½ -6 minutes is normal. BVM Page 78 1/15/2010