DEPAC Dyno Systems 201 Mill St. Rome NY (315)

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2 DEPAC Dyno Systems 201 Mill St. Rome NY (315) MAIN INTRODUCTION: Dyno Control Innovation Auto-Dynamic Load (ADL) Control System for water brake dynos: The ADL Control System is a significant advance in the control and operation of the common water brake dyno. It is a Smart Load Control that works far better than the traditional Speed Control Dynos in wide use. It is also very easy to set up and operate and most anyone can easily run the dyno. It achieves excellent control of engine load and speed by Improving the Stability of the Dyno/Engine connection. Unlike Speed Controls, the ADL system does not require adjustments and provides the engine with a very smooth and natural load, either steady state or sweeping. The ADL system controls dyno inlet water flow to Most* dynos. This is the proper method to control the load from a water brake. Also, designed into the hardware is the ability for future upgrades of the ADL to provide full programmed automated testing, track, Throttle control, and inertia dyno simulations. Dyno Applications: The ADL Control System is upgrades existing manual dynos like Stuska, Go- Power, Froude, AVL, and many others. We will provide upgrade parts kits for each specific dyno. DTS Power-Mark and SuperFlow dynos can be upgraded as well. But the complete upgrade includes an ADL Control AND a precision DEPAC instrumentation package. Special INSTALLATION Requirements for the ADL Control System: Please MAKE the time to read and understand the included ADL instructions and MAKE the time to do all that's required for the system installation to work at 100% performance. The ADL system works differently than any other previous dyno control system and requires special considerations for the water plumbing if it is to work to its full potential. It is very important to follow the installation instructions and diagrams. We provide the system as a kit of most all needed parts and clear, specific instructions so that it is installed properly. The ADL system can be made to work well with most existing plumbing (that is usually strung-out). Any new installation should try to place the dyno, pump, and water supply in close proximity (Just because there is no need to have lines strung all over the shop). Some existing dynos use municipal water through a long underground line. You can continue to use this city water supply as long as it has enough pressure for the engines, you need to test, and you will need extra Accumulators. Most installations requires a diaphragm accumulator near the Inlet Control Valve, as shown in the diagrams, pre-charged with air to 50% of the working water pressure. Some installations may require more than one Accumulator to compensate for the water flow inertia of very long water lines. A special inlet hose and nipple is supplied to connect the accumulator to the inlet valve (see diagrams). The outlet water is required to drain freely into a lower sump tank or open drain. Dual rotor dynos have very special requirements in that the water flow through each half be equal for best dyno load performance. We try to provide the parts and special manifolds to provide a split of the inlet and outlet water flow. * SuperFlow dynos use a specially designed Outlet Valve that s fast and precise. 1

3 DEPAC Dyno Systems 201 Mill St. Rome NY vv(315) To Run an ADL Controlled dyno test all you need to do: 1. Start the pre-warmed engine. 2. Pickup the throttle (the Load is automatically applied) 3. Hold the Test Switch down (to Sweep or Hold steady state). 4. Release the test switch when test is finished. 5. Pull throttle back to idle. New Technology: The ADL Control system is Not a Speed control. This system is Superior to any dyno speed controls we have ever seen, at any cost. The Key feature of the ADL system is a Smart Load that's Smooth and Natural and very Stable. Picture your engine as powering a vehicle climbing a steep hill, or grade. The ADL System affects the engine speed by changing the Grade, or slope, of this simulated hill. It is a very natural simulation and enhances your 'feel' for when the engine is 'not right'. If the engine is running the same then it will reach the same RPM when climbing the same Grade setting or LOAD. Sweeps are also very natural and start by setting a LOAD or Grade to hold a start RPM at a fixed throttle setting. For a Sweep, this Grade is slowly Reduced to sweep Up (or Increased to sweep Down). So then Imagine that you are in this vehicle on a sustained grade and then the hill starts to slowly flatten out. The engine picks up RPM in a smooth and natural way (as long as the engine is running smooth). The RATE control knob sets how Quickly this Grade changes when sweeping Up or Down, and can range from seconds to minutes. If you start at a Low RPM (hi Load) and start an Up-Sweep, the engine smoothly accelerates Naturally as it comes up on the cam, just as you would experience in the real world. Each sweep, or run 'up the hill', is very repeatable and predictable. Any sweep rate change is primarily due to the engine's ability to accelerate. Tests can be done at any throttle setting. Set a cracked throttle to simulate cruising conditions. At startup, and at low idle speeds, there is no Grade and just a slight engine load. As you increase the throttle, the Grade increases progressively until you reach a balanced RPM at a set throttle position (full or partial). If the engine is repeatable it will reach the Same RPM each time for the same throttle position. Any time you pull back the throttle to an idle the Grade automatically flattens out to a slight road load. Another Key Feature is that you have an enhanced sense of how well the engine is running, much more than you had with your hand valve, and certainly better than with any speed control. If you make a change to the engine that increases its performance it will reach a higher RPM at the same throttle setting. If the engine has a problem it will not reach the expected RPM and you can see immediately that there is something wrong. Note that Speed Controls, besides being erratic and un-natural, will run an engine to destruction, while trying to hold a set RPM. You may not detect something is wrong until too late (and expensive to fix). The ADL Control Includes is an available RPM HOLD Mode. It is a simple speed control that is intended for engine/injection mapping and will hold any set RPM from 1,000 to 12,000 RPM in precise 100 RPM increments. An added feature aids in warming up the engine. In this Warmup Mode the load is cycled to vary the Load and RPM in a continuous loop. You should never let the engine run at a steady speed for warm-up or break-in because of possible destructive torsional resonances. 2

4 DEPAC ADL Load Control Panel Explanation of ADL Controls X H Y Z A E B F G C D A - Main Power ON/OFF. Turn to activate system. PUSH to turn OFF. If engine is running the ADL will flood the water brake and Shut-off the ignition/fuel (using the external Cut-off relay). After the engine has stopped the ADL will close the valve and turn itself OFF. This Emergency STOP Function is a Fast and Safe way to stop a running engine. B - The Main Set LOAD Control. In the AUTO Mode this control changes the virtual engine Load. In the MANUAL Mode this directly turns the remote valve. The Scale or Range of this control is Set with the (SET %Full LOAD) Pot (Y). C - The RPM Set Pot. Adjustable from 1000 to RPM in precise 100 RPM Steps, indicated by the RPM Display. AUTO Sweep Mode: - You can set a Limit on the RPM Sweep, Hi or Lo, after which the Sweep stops. Speed HOLD Mode: - Sets the RPM at which the ADL system will constantly hold, for engine mapping. WARM-UP Mode: - This sets the Low Limit of the warm-up sweep (if used). D - The Set Sweep RATE control. Turning this will change the Rate of LOAD sweeps in all Modes. Pot (Z) sets the Scale for this control which can range from seconds to several minutes. Load Sweeps are infinitely variable. E - Warm-Up Switch. After setting the throttle and LOAD (B) for a Start RPM and an End RPM (C) this switch will cause the ADL to continuously sweep between Start to End RPM until shut off. RATE (D) controls how fast the sweep rate. F - Valve MODE Switch. Most all applications this will be in the AUTO/Stable position. MANUAL/Direct: - (as shown) Will cause LOAD (B) to directly open and close the valve. Scale set by Pot (Y). AUTO/Stable: - Puts the ADL Control system in its Full Automatic Mode to provide a Stable engine Load. G - Sweep Toggle. When the remote Test Switch is pushed, this toggle will determine which direction the LOAD will Sweep. There is No Sweep in the HOLD/STOP middle position. During a Sweep you can turn this toggle to any position to command any combination of UP, Down, or Stop Loads. X - Push Button to Display the Settings of the (SET % Full LOAD) (Y) and (SET Max Rate) (Z) Pots. Record for future. H - LED Indicators: LOAD (left display) Always indicates the % Open of the Valve (Actual or Virtual). RPM - Always indicates the Setting of the RPM Control X100. Special symbols are used for 100, 110, and 120. LED 1 - RED Indicates when an RPM Limit has been exceed and the LOAD is now Stopped. LED 2 - Orange (Future Use) LED T - GREEN Indicates when the Remote Test Switch in ON or Pushed (closed). LED S - YELLOW Indicates system is in the Speed HOLD Mode (Set by turning the LOAD (B) to 0% Closed). LED 4 - GREEN Indicates when the Engine Speed is close or Locked at the Speed HOLD RPM.

5 DEPAC Dyno Systems 201 Mill St. Rome NY (315) READ ME FIRST: Bench Test the ADL System. Exercise 0: Bench system function test. There are 3 main parts to the ADL Control system, the Universal control console, the Inlet flow control valve, and the power/driver module. Place these components on an open bench. Caution: Keep your hands away from the Valve when the system is powered up. Place the Valve on a bench or table. The Valve may be open for shipping. Place the Power Module and the Control box nearby (do not remove the protective strips on the Velcro). Put the long remote extension cable aside for the moment. Turn the large LOAD Knob to 50% and the Mode Switch to AUTO/Stable. Plug in the cables and attach the AC power cord. (verify the 110 or 220 VAC setting marked on the power module). The Green LED should come on. This indicates the standby power mode. Turn Emergency STOP button CW so it pops up and so turns the system ON. Note the Orange Power-ON LED and you will hear the sound of a small internal cooling fan. The two LED numeric digit displays will light and start a system ON self check. The digital segments will flash as well as the LEDs. Next the Valve will start to open and then move to full close as the system seeks its full closed reference position (set by an imbedded magnetic sensor). Turn the RPM Knob and see the right digit display change and show RPM x 100. Turn the LOAD knob and see that the left digit changes from 00 to less than 99. The valve stays closed all this time. Now turn the LOAD back to 50% on the Load printed scale. Turn the Mode Switch from AUTO to MANUAL-Direct and observe the valve pop open to a % Open setting displayed on the left digit display. 00% is fully closed and 99% is full open. This simply illustrates the valve movement. Turn the LOAD knob and now see the quick, precise direct valve movement. Note: This Direct Mode is NOT used for normal dyno testing. It is provided for whenever you need to actuate the valve manually (like for the Direct Valve Control function demonstration right now). 4

6 Turn the LOAD Knob to 100% and observe that the LOAD digit display may only show 49%, for example. Latter we will show you how to set this LOAD Scale (or Load Range) for your dyno and (small to large) engines. Now flip the MODE switch back to AUTO/Stable. Check that the valve closes smoothly. In this AUTO Mode the Valve remains closed bubble tight until your engine is running and needs automatic loading. Switch the Mode back to MANUAL and see the valve open. Turn the LOAD dial to 50%. Push the SET ALT button and see 2 different numbers appear on the digit displays. These are the current settings for the Set % Full Load Pot and the Set Max Rate Pot at the upper left. These 2 settings determine the LOAD Scale and the Rate of LOAD change (that we will see latter). For testing you will record these numbers so you can return to a past setup. Use a screw driver to turn the Set % Full Load Pot (above the RPM Knob). You will see the valve move in 1% steps to open or close. We will latter use this Set % Pot to scale the ADL system to your engine size, dyno, and water system. Set this number back to near where it was noted on the last step. Turn ON the WARM-UP switch and see the Red LED come on. The Valve does not move. Turn the WARM-UP Switch Off. (NOTE: This mode works only when the engine is running. See Exercise 6 latter). Push the Emergency STOP button and see the valve fully close and then the system turns itself OFF. Unplug the small control console cable from the Power module. Add the long extension cable to the ADL Control system. We will now test this cable extension for proper function (as a simple extension cable). Turn the power back on and make sure the system still performs all the same functions tested above (also a good quick review). Turn OFF the system as before by pushing in the Emergency STOP button. Note that the Orange LED on the power box goes off while the Green LED is still ON. The Green LED indicates the system is in low powered Standby mode. Bench test is done. Remove the Power cord first and then both cables. 5

7 ADL Control System Installation: Stuska 800 Before Any installation: See Exercise 0 to bench test system. Stuska 800 Dual Rotor: Read section on Special needs for this dyno. Refer to the diagrams of a standard installation on a Stuska 800 dyno. Please Follow the Diagrams and Instructions and the system will run 100%. A New Dyno Installation: For a new dyno installation locate the water supply, pump, and dyno as close together as practical to avoid long water lines. Use the 150 PSI rated EDPM rubber hose instead of PVC, or solid piping, and elbows. Also can use 125 PSI rated hose. An Existing Dyno Installation: The ADL Control system can use your existing pump and your existing plumbing. The water inlet and outlet at the dyno needs to be as shown in the diagrams. Most all the parts are provided in the kit to make this installation right. Check that your existing plumbing is not restricting flow. Lines that are 1½" pipe size and more will work. If the length of the overall plumbing is more than 50 feet then you will Need a 2 nd Accumulator to compensate for water column inertia (which slows, or lags, operation) Inlet valve assembly: Mount the ADL Control valve as shown in the diagrams using the parts supplied in the kit. The Inlet barbed fitting (with PSI Gauge) and the 2 foot flexible hose section and Accumulator must be used close, as shown in the diagram (shorten to 15 minimum). The vertical inlet hose supports, and balances, the valve assembly on top. Provide support for the inlet hose so that the valve and inlet manifold is centered on top of the dyno as shown. Normally the valve is closed and there will always be water in the line above the valve. Always bring the water hose over from the back of the dyno, not from the sides. We have a barbed fitting on the valve inlet that you can connect to the small Stuska hose for cooling the Stuska water seals. Use the small hose parts provided. Mount the Accumulator: Make a frame to Support the weight of the water filled accumulator and the water filled hoses. Be careful not to cause a torque on the brake assembly. The 2 foot hose must be used to form, or straighten, the flow into the valve. Charging the Accumulator: Inflate the Accumulator with air, or inert gas, to 50% of the inlet valve's working water pressure. The Working pressure is the Water PSI with the engine fully loaded. Use the PSI gauge on the valve inlet for reference. We recommend that you also have an operator panel gauge, using a remote line to this fitting. Check and Set Air Pressure with the pump Off and no water pressure. Mount the Outlet Valve Assembly: Remove the current Stuska Outlet flanges and scrap off all the silicone to have a clean flat surface for our new O-ring flange seal. Assemble the 2 outlet flanges together with the valve Tee. (Apply a little grease to the O- ring and inside surface). Observe the orientation of the plates for dyno rotation (just like the original Stuska flanges). For counter-rotating engines you Must rotate these flanges, just like before, but now its easier. Also apply a little grease to the O-Ring flange. Use the stainless caps screws and washers supplied. Refer to the diagram for position and rotation. After running warm a few times Check to see if the Gate Valve Packing nut is snug (hard to turn) so that the valve keeps its position and is not loose to turn. 6

8 Use a 1" rubber hose to direct the outlet water into an open sump or drain. This hose should be as short as possible and no more than 24" long. The hose should be directed straight down to minimize flow caused torque. Add a support bracket to end of the hose so that it does not rotate on the O-rings. You can direct the hose to the back BUT not to the side, as this will pull on the dyno causing a false torque. Do not use the Dyno to pump water into another tank as this added restriction affects the outlet flow. Avoid recalculating the hot outlet water directly back to the supply tank if it will significantly raise the temperature of the inlet water (which should always be as cool as possible). If you need to re-use the outlet water you ought to cool the water before returning to the supply tank. Mount the Power/Driver Module: The Valve actuator cable (8') plugs into the Power- Driver module. The Power Module needs to be located far from any radiant heat sources, like the exhaust and cooling system. It needs to be in the open where cool moving room air will flow over it. Mount it on a wall or vibration free support. Do NOT mount on the Dyno frame because of the vibration and proximity of heat. Use 8-32 or the screws provided. Plug in the power cord securely to the Power Module (remains powered-up in Standby). 120 or 240 AC and the unit can be powered ON all the time. Note: Wire this power to its own breaker circuit. If you have this on the same circuit used for pumps, fans, or other motors, the unit can be damaged from inductive voltage kickback spikes when the circuit breaks on a running motor. Never wire anything to a circuit that s connected to a running motor. Huge arcs are created when switching off a running motor. Mount the Operator Control Console: There are two recommended ways to mount the operator panel. Use the Velcro strips or sink into a panel cutout. Use the Velcro strips for initial location, which should be easily accessible while running the tests. When you have selected a good location, for easy manual operation, you can carefully make a 5 ½" by 8" cutout so that the panel will drop in snuggly up to its top flange. The Box is slightly tapered and the aim is to have a snug fit but still be able to pull up and out for service and reprogramming. Please do not drill holes or using silly-cone. Optional use: Ignition Cut-Off Relay: The ADL Control panel has a pair of wires for an external relay that you can use as an ignition cutoff for either magneto (close circuit) or conventional ignitions (open circuit). It is connected to the panel's Emergency STOP button. Hitting this E-STOP Button, when the engine is running, also commands the Load Valve to flood the dyno. When the engine is stopped it closes the valve and shuts itself off. Flooding the dyno alone is not enough to stall an engine, but the combination of quick dyno flooding and ignition cutoff stops the engine the quickest, when you really need to. Connect the relay to 12 Volt battery power and the relay contacts as needed for your ignition (see wiring diagram). Avoid mounting on the vibrating dyno frame. The relay is Energized when the ADL system is turned ON. This then enables the Ignition (and fuel pump). When using this Emergency Cut-Off relay the ADL System needs to be turned on Before you can start the engine. 7

9 DEPAC Dyno Systems 201 Mill St. Rome NY (315) INLET Valve Assembly: Installation The Butterfly Valve can accept water flow from either direction. The Valve uses an O-Ring seal for a self-cleaning, bubble tight, shutoff. We have provided most all the parts for a proper installation. Refer to the diagrams. Special Inlet Barbed Hose fitting: There are several tapped holes on this adapter. It s very important that any pipe fittings be FLUSH on the inside. That is why they are tapped shallow so please do not tap deeper. For Dual Rotor dynos the water flow Must be split 50/50% for each half rotor else the dyno may run erratically. Any protrusions will alter the dynamic (turbulent) water flow and possibly alter the 50/50% flow split from the valve. Make sure any fittings are flush inside by grinding. Protrusions will distort the flow lines. The water flow path must be symmetrical so that it will not alter the 50/50% flow split. The inlet hose fitting has a constriction that helps direct an even flow to the butterfly valve and the 18-24" length of 1.5" EDPM hose supplied Must be Used. The Absolute Worst thing you could do is to put a 90 degree elbow on the valve inlet. Inlet Water Pressure Gauge and Sensor: The valve depends on a stable and consistent water supply pressure at the valve so it can control water flow into the dyno. We supply a Water PSI gauge for you to locally monitor this important pressure. We have provided 3 possible locations for the Gauge so that you can see it better after you have tightened the pipe thread Hose fitting. Adding an additional remote pressure gauge is encouraged. We supply pipe plugs for those that are not used. Check to see if these are all Flush with the inside surface of the hose fitting. (We tap threads shallow to help get a flush fitting) tapped holes are for you to use with the Stuska water drip lines to the brake. Stuska 800, DTS, Froude Dynos: 50/50% Water Flow Split Manifold: For Stuska 800 we provide all the PVC plumbing parts so you can make the water flow splitter shown in the diagrams. The valve outlet is 1 ½ NPT. The oldest Stuska used a 1" brass pipe nipple with ¾ NPT. Its best to open this up and tap 1" NPT to use the 1¼ hose nipple provided. This will allow consistent use of 1 ¼" molded hoses for all Stuska installations. 2nd best is to use spacer provided over the 1" fitting to fill the gap to the 1 ¼" molded hose. The water pressure in this manifold is very low and so you may not even need to use any hose clamps. (Certainly don t over clamp). Stuska 400, Go-Power, and Single Rotor Dynos. The inlet Valve controls the flow to the single water inlet and should be mounted as shown in the diagrams close to the dyno. We do not want the hose, and the water flow, to pull on the dyno and cause torque errors. Check for this by running the ADL in the Manual/Direct Mode to create a Pulse of water flow and watch the torque readings jump. Just use a quick blip of water flow since the dyno can be filled quickly and pressure can build inside (with no engine running). 8

10 DEPAC Dyno Systems 201 Mill St. Rome NY (315) Installing the Universal ADL Operator Control Panel: This Same Panel is used for all different dynos to provide a consistent universal operator interface. This provides a consistent, universal, interface so that you can easily operate different ADL equipped dynos, once you have learned to use on another dyno. The control panel has Velcro strips attached to the bottom. Use this first to place the box onto your control panel where you can easily get at the manual controls. Move the box around your console until you locate a sweet spot and then remove the protective strips and push down hard on the flat surface. Latter, if you like, you can carefully cut out a 5 ½" by 8" opening so that the panel can sink up to its top cover flange for a near Flush mount. The sides of the box are slightly tapered and if you get the opening just right it will lock in snuggly but still can be lifted out easily if needed, like to return to DEPAC for updated programming. (PLEASE, do not use any screws or silly-cone). Let gravity, and a snug fit, do the work. There are several cables that exit the box. All have connectors for easy removal of the box. The 1st cable goes out to the Power Module, mounted near the valve. We include a 45 foot extension cable. Route this cable out of harm's way. A 2 nd cable has connections for the Tach signal input and the Test Switch. If you have a DEPAC system, we supply the ends so that you can Tap into the existing Tach input and Remote test Switch plug. This cable will be bare wires if you do not have a DEPAC instrumentation system. (2 pair for Tach input & Test Switch). A 3 rd cable (2 wire with connector) can be used with a remote ignition cut-out relay. This works in conjunction with the Red Emergency STOP switch. Emergency Stop will flood the dyno and kill the ignition. This relay can also be used to cutoff any electric fuel pumps. When the engine has stopped turning, the ADL system will close the valve and automatically power down. 9

11 DEPAC Dyno Systems 201 Mill St. Rome NY (315) Power Connections, and Inputs to the ADL Control System: AC Power Input: The Main AC power to the system can be either V AC or VAC at Hz. We set this at the factory and mark the product label. The AC Power is connected at all times, in Standby, and consumes less than a watt. The Green LED indicates standby power is ON. The operator control panel commands the main powerup/down as needed. When the ADL System is ON and active the Orange LED will be ON. Connections to the ADL Control System: There are three main Inputs and one Output 1. Operator Test Switch is a Push to Close switch, when closed, will command the ADL to Sweep UP/DWN if the sweep mode switch is set. It's only active in the AUTO/Stable Mode. If you have a DEPAC System we provide a cable tap into the existing remote test switch used by this Physics based instrumentation. Otherwise we provide a loose pair of wires for an isolated button and Tach input. These wires are polarized and so refer to the wiring diagram. 2. Dyno RPM Input from any device that can generate an AC signal with at least One pulse per revolution up to 255 pulses per revolution (programmable internally). If you have a DEPAC system we provide an interface cable that taps into the existing TACH Input on the back of the Blue Box. Otherwise we provide a loose pair of wires which are both isolated from ground to minimize ground current loops. 3. Inlet Water PSI: In Future advanced systems, the Inlet Control Valve may have an optional Water Pressure sensor sending information to the Operator Control Console. The ADL system can use this feedback to gain even better stability against natural or erratic changes in Inlet water pressure. A properly installed water system should provide steady water flow. 4. Output to an Ignition Cut-Off relay: We provide a 12Volt DPDT relay for you to mount in your console. Pair of wires from the Control box is used to activate this relay using your 12V battery voltage. You can also use this hookup to turn-off you fuel pumps for a complete emergency shutdown capability. Refer to wiring diagram. Connecting Cables: The Inlet Control Valve has a heavy 8 foot cable that plugs into the Main Power Module. The Control Console has a smaller cable that also plugs into this Remote Module and we provide a 45 foot cable extension if needed. TACH Input Programing: We supply the ADL Control box already programmed for your dyno. Most dynos are either 50 PPR (Stuska DEPACs) or the industry standard 60 PPR. We can also program the unit to accept any AC Tach signal input from 1 Pulse per Revolution (PPR) to 255 PPR from a wide variety of signal sources. Mounting the ADL Control box: The control box comes with 2 strips of Velcro on the bottom along with 2 adhesive protective strips. First position the box as received in an easy to operate location. When you have a good operating position remove the protective strips and push the unit onto your panel solidly. Now its fixed but still can be easily removed by peeling it off the Velcro. Latter you can make a 5 ½" by 8" cutout in your panel so that the console can drop-in snuggly up to its top flange. The unit is nearly flush and uses gravity to hold in place. Done carefully it is snug but still can be pulled out (for re-programming by DEPAC). Please do Not drill holes, use screws, or silly-cone on this box (This will reduce the value of the unit). 10

12 RPM BAR Tach Engine RPM DEPAC Graf-Plot List of Test Runs to PLOT Power List of DATA Channels to PLOT Use SpaceBar to Turn Plots ON or OFF STATUS and Time See Below EGTs or O2 Channels Torq Avg Between Dotted Cursors AVG ALARM Data Cursor AVG Torq Data at Cursor of Run C18.EX Tag Means Plot * this Data Chan SpaceBar to TAG or UN-TAG Plot Scroll through List of Data Channels EGTs or O2 Channels BAR Graf Channels Rate RPM/Sec Bar Graf Channels STATUS shows the Time in Colors Grey = Normal Green = Test ON Orange = End Test CF HOLD ON Shows as Purple Colors of the BAR Graf and EGT Channel Numbers change with Value DEPAC Dyno Systems 201 Mill St., Rome, NY (315) Purple = Very High Red = High value Yellow = Caution Green = Normal Blue = Low Value

13 DEPAC Dyno Systems 201 Mill St. Rome NY (315) START #1: AFTER INSTALLATION -- Start-up and Checkout. Check the integrity of all fittings, cables and connections. Apply Main AC Power to the Power module. See the green LED come on Turn on the ADL power from the control Panel. See the Orange LED come on and hear the internal cooling fan running inside the power module. Switch to MANUAL Mode. Turn the LOAD knob to see the valve follow your moves. Manual Mode is a direct connection to the valve (no auto features). Turn the LOAD to Closed or 0%. The Yellow LED should be ON. Turn on the main water pump. The water lines will quickly fill with water and all air should be expelled through the top vent line back to the drain or main water tank. Check for pressure leaks. (from the pump to the valve inlet). Observe Valve Inlet Water pressure gauge. This is the no-flow pump pressure. Open the ADL Outlet Valve at least 3 full turns or near full open. Quickly short cycle the LOAD knob (Open a bit and Close) to send a quick blast the water into the dyno. (caution: Too much water, too quickly, will fill the brake and overflow out the top air vent). On a Dual rotor Stuska, observe the water flow through the clear PVC pipe sections. The flow should be split evenly. Check for leaks. Your water seals are defective if you have see any water flows out the dyno shaft ends or vents near the shaft. Replace seals and bearings ASAP. (PAC SEAL #237 seals. Water in shaft bearings WILL cause failure). Turn the LOAD knob back to close or 0%. The Yellow LED should be ON. Push IN the E-Stop button to shutdown the ADL Control. Make sure you close the Outlet valve and then pen to the number of quarter turns, from the table, for the BHP of the engine your will be dyno testing. Proceed to START #2. 12

14 DEPAC Dyno Systems 201 Mill St. Rome NY (315) START #2: Getting familiar with the ADL Control system. Check that the Outlet Valve (or restriction) is open according to the table for the BHP and water temperature you will be using. (example: 4 quarter turns for a 600 BHP motor). Turn the ADL system back ON and observe the normal startup sequence. Switch to the AUTO Mode. The valve should now be closed for any LOAD. Turn the LOAD knob open to about 10% (make sure the Yellow LED is Off). Turn on your main water pump. Check that you have pressure at the inlet valve. Check again for any water leaks. Start your engine. Pick up the throttle a little and you will notice the valve start to open some. (On a cold motor only apply part throttle and keep the speeds down). At part throttle start to increase the LOAD knob and see the ADL apply some Load and pull down the RPM some. Turn the LOAD knob to change the RPM and see that it is steady. Add more throttle to pick up the RPM a bit and get a feel for the engine load by turning the LOAD knob a little. Check to see if the Water Pressure is steady. You can add more part throttle and LOAD to hold any RPM for warm-up. RPM should be steady and the engine will not tend to take off or be pulled down and stall. By now you will see how easy it is to Control your Engine with the ADL Control s Smart AUTO load Mode. (Trying the Direct Mode will not be stable). If the engine is warm you can now add more Load and more throttle and see that you can set the RPM anywhere you want with good smooth control. OPTION: Jump to Exercise #6 to learn how to use the WARM-UP Mode. Proceed with Exercise #1 to SET the LOAD Range for your engine. 13

15 Exercise 1: Setting the LOAD RANGE of the ADL Control System. Purpose: Adjust the ADL Control to work with your Dyno, Engine, and Water system. This will result in a good range of control using the LOAD Knob. Changing the Inlet water pressure has the same affect as changing the Valve Setting Scale. Check if you need more or less water pressure. Make sure the water pressure is Steady to full load. Summary: The ADL System can work with a very wide range of dynos and engines. The FIRST Step in using the new system is to SET the OUTLET Flow Valve to the BHP range of your test engine. This sets the Water flow rate to match the power absorbed and so keeps the internal water temperature consistent. 2nd Step is to adjust the Load range control for the engine being tested and your water supply pressure. Once a setting is found then you can record the scale for future reference and always return to the exact same setting. The object is to have the LOAD knob look similar to the Tach indicator so that it's easy to estimate a LOAD RPM just by pointing the LOAD knob like the Tach indicator. This is a coarse approximation but useful for initial setting. Turn ON the ADL system and see that the self-on-test is completed. The valve should move to open and then be closed when ready. Turn ON the water pump/supply. Start with a fully warmed up engine. You should have a rough idea for the RPM for peak engine torque. You need a flat blade screw driver to adjust 100% Load Pot. 1. The OUTLET Valve MUST be SET using the BHP Table First. 2. Check that Mode switch is set to AUTO-Stable and Turn ON ADL System. 3. Turn the LOAD knob to 50%, pointer straight UP. (valve remains closed) 4. Start your engine and turn ON the water pump. 5. Slowly pick up the throttle and as the RPM picks up to about the torque peak. 6. Adjust the Set % Full Load pot with screwdriver so that at full throttle you are at engine s torque peak. (Note: This trim adjustment jumps in 1 % steps). 7. Return throttle to idle and then pickup full throttle again and see if the engine Holds smoothly at the same set RPM Load. It should if everything is right. You have just scaled the ADL system to your engine, dyno, and water pressure. Push the SET ALT button and record the Number in the left LED window. When you were doing Step 6 you noticed that the engine speed stepped as you slowly turned the Set % Full Load pot. The adjustment jumps in 1 % steps, like going from 34% to 35%, so you can always return to the exact same setting in the future. This setting will work with all engines with similar Torque curves. You will run with this one scale setting for similar engines. If you want to test a much larger or smaller motor then you may want to set the Set % Full Load scale to a different number. This Number sets the Scale, or effect, of the large LOAD Knob for different size or type engines. Now the LOAD knob position is very similar to the RPM reading on the TACH indicator. It will be very easy to Quickly Estimate a starting RPM just by pointing the LOAD knob like the TACH needle. Note that this is just a rough approximation. Another advantage to setting the LOAD Scale this way is that you have a Similar range of knob adjustment for fine setting the LOAD for your smallest to largest engines. 14

16 DEPAC Dyno Systems 201 Mill St. Rome NY (315) Exercise 2: Use of the MANUAL or DIRECT Valve Mode: Purpose: To show that while in the MANUAL, or Direct Mode, the LOAD knob is a Direct connection to the Inlet valve. It has NO Auto-Stability and is exactly the same as your original Hand Control valve. It is sometimes useful to just open and close this valve to purge water through the dyno or test the valve movement. When the LOAD Knob is turned to CLOSE (0%) the valve IS Fully closed with an 0-Ring self wiping bubble tight seal. Summary: The Actual Valve opening depends on the Load Range set in lesson 1. The Actual Valve Opening will usually be much less than the LOAD Knob % Setting. This Ratio or Scale is adjusted by the SET% Full LOAD Pot. Turning the LOAD Knob to Full Open (100%) will normally open the actual valve to less than 50% open or about 30 degrees open for the butterfly valve. Exercise: The Motor and Water pump is OFF, The ADL System is ON. 1. Flip the Mode Switch to MANUAL 2. The Valve will jump to an opening set by the current LOAD Knob %. 3. Turn LOAD knob to Closed and check that the valve is closed, yellow LED On. 4. Turn the LOAD Knob to 100% and see the Valve move to open, which will generally be less than half open, set by Lesson 1 range setup. 5. Turn the LOAD Knob quickly and see how fast the valve can follow your movements. The valve will respond very quickly to your inputs. 6. Switch back to AUTO Mode and see the valve immediately close and remains closed no matter the LOAD Knob setting. (leave in AUTO Mode for tests). You can Run your dyno in the Fully MANUAL Mode but it would offer no real advantage over what you had before when using your hand control valve. If you turn the water pumps ON you can use the MANUAL mode to blast water through your dyno for function testing, like for testing for leaks. When the engine is not running, the dyno can fill with water very quickly and blow water out the top air vent. Note: The Direct Valve Mode is NOT used for normal dyno testing. This mode is just as unstable and difficult to use as your original hand control of the dyno. Please Use the AUTO-Stable Mode for all your dyno testing. 15

17 DEPAC Dyno Systems 201 Mill St. Rome NY (315) Exercise 3: Sweep Tests by Turning the LOAD Control knob The ADL Control System should be ranged to Load your engine in Lesson 1. Purpose: To demonstrate that the LOAD Knob can smoothly control Engine RPM over a very wide range, especially at speeds where you could never hold the engine before with the manual control valve. This also demonstrates the Stability and easy use of the ADL system in the AUTO/Stable mode doing an ADL 'manual sweep'. Also use the LOAD knob to feel the engine's torque curve. 1. Turn ON the water pump. 2. Set the LOAD Knob to an approximate Starting % dial or estimated RPM. 3. Set the UP-Stop-DWN switch to the Stop/HOLD position. (no sweep). 4. Smoothly add throttle to full and see where the engine RPM stabilizes. 5. Make any LOAD adjustments to set your desired RPM. (Note LOAD dial %). 6. If you are Recording this test, Hold the test Switch ON. (No Load Sweep). 7. Now Slowly and Smoothly turn the LOAD Knob to raise, or lower, the RPM. 8. When test sweep is done release the test Switch and bring throttle to idle. 9. Repeat the above with different Start and End LOAD points, Up or Down. This is not the recommended method of sweep testing because the operator can never turn the LOAD Knob the same each time. The ADL Controlled AUTO Sweep is Very consistent and repeatable, with an enhanced feel for the engine. See Next Exercise 4 for the Recommended Sweep Mode: Use the UP - Stop - DWN Switch to have the internal processor change the LOAD at a very smooth and repeatable Rate. (Set by the RATE knob). The UP - Stop - DWN Switch works with an external push to close switch to Command the sweep. This uses the same Push-to-Test switch used by the DEPAC instrumentation system. If you don t have an Advanced DEPAC System then we provide the ADL system with bare wire leads to connect to your Test Switch and Tach signal inputs. Note: If your engine has a very steep torque rise coming up on the cam, or pipe, there may be a very natural speed oscillation (caused by the steep torque rise). The normal oscillation will be smooth and any normal sweep Up or Down through this sharp region will be generally smooth and natural. 16

18 DEPAC Dyno Systems 201 Mill St. Rome NY (315) Exercise 4: Automatic LOAD Sweeps with a Remote Test Switch. ADL System should be ranged to your engine in Exercise 1. Purpose: To demonstrate the Auto Sweep Mode using the UP-Stop-DOWN toggle. A remote test switch commands a Load Sweep at a Rate set by the RATE Control. If the Auto Sweep is in the HOLD position the LOAD will not change when you push the Remote Test Switch (use for a Static Pull). Start and warm-up the engine. You can use the LOAD knob and Throttle to put a partial load on the engine. Use either the LOAD Knob or throttle to change RPM. (Also see WARM-UP Mode exercise #6). 1. Push your remote test switch to Check if the Green (T) LED comes on. 2. Set the LOAD Knob to an approximate Starting % dial or estimated RPM. 3. Set the Load Sweep toggle to either the sweep UP or DWN position. 4. Set the RPM knob to its lowest point 1000 RPM. (See Note below) 5. Smoothly add Full throttle and the engine will come up and Hold an RPM. 6. Make any LOAD adjustments to set your desired RPM. (Note LOAD dial %). 7. Close the TEST Switch and the Load starts to sweep either UP or DOWN. 8. During the Sweep you can change the UP-Stop-DOWN Switch at any time. 9. Release the Test Switch anytime to end sweep. Load returns back to Start. 10. Now You can pull back the throttle to idle. NOTE: Setting the RPM Control Knob. You can use the RPM Knob to Set an End Point. The sweep will automatically stop after Exceeding the Set RPM Limit. Example: Start an UP Sweep at 4000 RPM and set the RPM control to 7000 RPM (70 displayed). As the engine sweeps past 7000 RPM the LOAD Sweep Stops and holds the LOAD just above 7000 (#1 Red LED comes ON). It will hold here as long as you want. Release the Test Switch and the LOAD returns back to the start point of 4000 RPM. If you do not want to use the RPM Limit feature, just set the RPM outside the expected speed range and You then control the end of sweep point with the Test Switch. Also if you set the RPM Control to a low value, the limit is also ignored. NOTE: Changing Sweep Direction during a TEST Sweep. During a test sweep the UP-Stop-DWN Toggle can be changed anytime for any combination of sweeps or Steady states, while the Remote test switch is closed. Releasing the Test Switch will always return the Load to the Start point. 17

19 Exercise 5: Setting the Range of the Load Sweep RATE Control. Purpose: To range the ADL RATE Control to Sweep the LOAD to the testing needs of your engine. Set a mid-position of the RATE control Knob so you can latter adjust up or down as needed. You can change the RATE during a sweep. Summary: The ADL System can work with a very wide range Sweeps ranging form seconds to several minutes. You need to adjust the Set MAX Rate Trim Pot to match your sweep requirements. The ADL System sweeps the LOAD with stability and you will see a natural and smooth RPM sweep of the engine. You cannot set an RPM/Sec rate as you can with conventional dynos but the ADL Load RATE control is infinitely variable and can be changed during the sweep. Sweeps can be closely fine-tuned. The Sweep UP-STOP-DWN Toggle is used in conjunction with a Remote Test Switch. If you have the Toggle in the STOP/Hold position and you push the Test Switch the ADL system will Hold the engine at the same steady RPM. If you have the Toggle in either UP or DWN, and you push the Test Switch, the ADL will start to sweep at a smooth LOAD change Set by the RATE Knob. Complete Exercise 1 to Scale the LOAD range to your engine and dyno. Have your engine warmed-up and ready for a test sweep. The ADL system and pumps should be ON. Have a flat blade screw driver ready for adjustment. You should have a remote Sweep Test pushbutton, preferably on your throttle. The Test Switch will Command the LOAD to sweep UP, DWN, or Hold Steady LOAD 1. Set the RATE Knob to 5 on the scale. (A mid-point for latter fine adjustments) 2. Set a Starting LOAD, for an approximate starting RPM. (see exercise #1) 3. Make sure that the RPM control is set either below your start RPM or above your expected end RPM point. (RPM is on the Right LED display). 4. Switch the Sweep Mode Toggle to UP. 5. Pick-up the throttle to full and adjusting the LOAD knob as needed to Start RPM. 6. Hold the Sweep Test button down and the LOAD will start to Sweep smoothly UP (set in #4). Observe the Rate of change of the Engine RPM. 7. Use the screwdriver to adjust the Set MAX Rate Pot to increase or decrease the sweep rate you want. This will set a Middle point for the RATE Knob. 8. Release the Test Button to end the sweep. This will cause the Engine RPM to jump quickly back to the Start LOAD point. Pull back the throttle to idle. You have just scaled the Load Change RATE Knob to your testing needs either a fast sweep for a drag race engine or a slower sweep for a circle track race engine. Set MAX Rate even slower for Marine and Diesel engines. Rate can range can be from 10 minutes down to seconds (non-linear adjustment). The LOAD sweeps are natural and will Smoothly speed up when coming up on the cam. If you want, you can turn the RATE Knob down to slow the rate when coming up on the cam and increase the sweep rate at the top end. If everything is working right with your whole test the sweep rate should be smooth and natural. 18

20 DEPAC Dyno Systems 201 Mill St. Rome NY (315) Exercise 6: Warming up the Engine: WARM-UP Mode. Break-In Mode. NOTE: Engine dynos always have torsional resonances at Unkown RPMs. Every engine dyno will have different dyno resonant Speeds, with can be destructive. Holding the engine at a resonant RPM could cause very high +/- torque stress and can eventually lead to catastrophic failure over time (fatigue damage). Broken driveshafts are a very common result of this fatigue stress. These destructive oscillations have nothing to do with dyno load, and can occur with No Brake Load applied. With heavy flywheels you can have engine damage. The Only defense from damage with torsional resonance is to constantly change the RPM, so as to avoid long exposures at these destructive resonant RPMs. Purpose: To use the ADL to help warm the engine up to operating temperature without the dangers of damage from torsional resonant stresses. To apply a Load to the engine, at part throttle, at a low warm-up or break-in RPM. The constant changing of engine Speed will greatly reduce any long-term fatigue damage from any destructive torsional resonance s on driveshafts and engine internals. Auto Warm-up (or Break-in) Mode 1. Add part throttle and set LOAD knob to a Warm-up (break-in) Start RPM. 2. Turn the RPM Knob to a lower speed you want as a lower End RPM. 3. Turn ON the Warm-Up Switch and the ADL will start quickly sweeping down to the RPM End point, and then back up to the Start point, continuously. Turn the RATE Knob to change how quickly the engine sweeps up and down. 4. Switch OFF when done and the RPM will return to the start point set in #1. 5. You can either pull the throttle back to idle or proceed to do a test sweep. Note: You can hold down the DEPAC test switch to have a test average record of the warm-up (break-in) process. Also you can watch the record pattern of Machine Gun dots on the DEPAC LINK3 grafplot screen. After you Start the WARM-UP Mode the Upper Start RPM is Locked in, but you can re-adjust the LOAD setting and the Lower RPM setting. Also you can change warm-up sweep rate using the RATE Knob. NOTE: When you first turn on the WARM-UP Mode the ADL will Ignore any RPM knob setting that happens to be set Above your Start RPM point (Step #1). It will then automatically Set a lower Default RPM sweep limit that's ½ the Start RPM. 19

21 Exercise 7: Using the Speed HOLD (Mapping) Mode Purpose: The Speed HOLD Mode is intended for mapping an electronic engine management system. It is a very simple speed control that constantly adjusts the LOAD to Hold a set RPM. When you change the throttle, mixture, or ignition, the system will slowly adjust the Load to return any changed RPM back to the precise set-point. You can set a Speed Hold Speed in precise 100 RPM increments from 1,000 RPM to 12,000 RPM. Use ONLY for Mapping. Operation: The Speed HOLD Mode must be locked, or initialized, before it can function in the Speed Hold mode. The right LED display shows the current setting (x100 RPM) and is controlled by the RPM Knob. Best to set a low RPM set-point to initialize this Mode. The valve starts closed and will remain closed as long as the engine speed is less than the set-point. You need to add enough throttle so the RPM is above the set-point to initialize. Then the system will detect a speed error and start to open the valve to compensate. It may take several seconds for the system to take control of the engine and bring the RPM down and hold it at the Initial set-point RPM. Watch the LOAD Number in the left LED display change as the ADL Control changes in response to the speed error. Caution: The ADL Speed Hold mode MUST be First slowly INITIALIZED. Note: Open the throttle slowly when initializing the Hold Mode. The Valve is Closed Until the engine speed exceeds the Set RPM. 1. Set the LOAD Knob to Zero. The yellow #3 LED indicates the Hold Mode ON. 2. Set the RPM Knob to a Low to Mid Start Speed. 3. Slowly add throttle to about 500 RPM above your Set Start RPM and wait. 4. You will see the left Load Digit display start to increase as the valve opens. 5. After a few seconds the ADL pulls the Speed Down to your Selected Start RPM point. The #4 Green LED will be 'ON' when the Speed is within +/- 10 RPM of the Start/Set-point, OFF if not. The Load number digit is now steady. 6. The Speed HOLD Mode is Now Initialized and the ADL will hold RPM. 7. Now make small step Changes like bump the throttle, or change the mixture or timing. After a few seconds the ADL system should lock back to set RPM. 8. You can now change the RPM Knob to set other Speeds in 100 RPM steps. 9. Make changes in steps and then wait till the ADL is back on Lock. -- Repeat. 10. You can also begin a Standard Load Sweep test at any time (UP-Stop-DWN). 11. When done just slowly pull back the throttle. The valve will close. 12. You can also cancel the Speed HOLD-Mode by turning the LOAD knob Open until it over-rides the control of the Valve and pulls the motor down. The Yellow LED turns Off and you now have complete control with the LOAD Dial. Any Flicker of the #4 Green LED indicates how smooth the engine is running. After the system is Locked onto the Hold-point speed you can then make any reasonable changes you want and the Speed Hold Mode will automatically change the LOAD to hold the set RPM. Make any changes in steps and then wait a few seconds for the system to respond. You can make a Torque Sweep, or a Static test, at any time and the system will respond to the UP-STOP-DWN switch. Each sweep will be a Smart Load Control Mode sweep and when completed the system will revert back to the Start RPM in Speed Hold Mode. 20

22 DEPAC Dyno Systems 201 Mill St. Rome NY (315) Exercise 8: DEPAC Inertia Correction Factor -- Making Torque Loops. Purpose: Use the LOAD Knob to rapidly cycle the Torque Load to create Loops of DEPAC Machine Gun (MGun) Dots used to set the Inertia correction. This uses a unique Advanced feature of DEPAC LINK version 3 system to set the inertia correction after the tests. DEPAC Version 3 system can record and playback Torque vs. RPM MGun Dots used to test and set the DEPAC Inertia Correction Factor. The engine is loaded at full throttle at the RPM you want to test the inertia. (Note: On some dynos like the Stuska the Internal brake inertia can change with the amount of water inside the brake). The Load is then quickly changed up and down to create a high +/- RPM/second sweep around the Steady Load point. With No inertia correction the Torque MGun dots will plot in a counter-clockwise loop. The goal is to have a large vertical loop pattern of dots so that when entering an Inertia correction number the sweep Up & Down dot Loops will be on the same curve, thus canceling the inertia error. Make the Loop Test: We assume you have a DEPAC version3 system. 1. The engine is warmed and ready to test. 2. Go to the GrafPlot screen to view the Machine Gun (MGun) Torque dots. 3. Set the UP/DWN switch to HOLD/Stop. 4. Start with the DEPAC Inertia Setting of Zero to enhance the Torque Looping action. 5. Set a LOAD so the engine throttles up a Speed between peak torque and peak power. 6. Push the DEPAC Test Switch to record the MGun Dot loops. 7. Roll the LOAD Knob Up and Down to make these torque loops. Only sweep 1000 RPM (or less) and try to get a Large change in +/- RPM/Sec to get large vertical torque loops. 8. Release the Test Switch and throttle back and stop the engine. Set the Inertia Correction: Use Vers3 to playback the test on the GRAF-Plot screen. 1. Use the Insert Key to Playback the MGun dots on the Graph Screen. 2. Use the Letter (I) key to pop-up the Inertia Set menu. 3. Enter an estimated Inertia Correction Number (Like 0.10). 4. Replay the MGun dots and observe any reduced size of the inertia error loops. 5. Hit the F8 key (twice) to clear the old MGun dots and redraw the GrafPlot screen. 6. Find a number that eliminates any looping (with the Red and white Dots are mixed evenly). Note: An Over correction will cause the Dot loops to rotate clock-wise with the Red Dots Below the White Dots. An Under Correction will loop the Red Dots ABOVE the white dots. Note: The remaining pattern of MGun dots represent the engine's torque scatter. Note: To Re-Draw the Screen and erase the MGun dots by hit the F8 key twice. Note: Use the Space-Bar to turn ON-OFF test run Data Curves and MGun dots. 21

23 DEPAC Dyno Systems 201 Mill St. Rome NY (315) Exercise 9: The Emergency Shut-Down Feature: Also for a Clean Cut for a plug check: The RED turn Power ON and OFF button will function as an Emergency Stop, if you use the external ignition (and/or Fuel Pump) relay. If you use this relay the ADL system needs to be ON before you can turn On the Ignition (or fuel pumps). When you turn OFF the ADL system by pushing the Emergency Stop button, and the engine is not running, the system just turns itself Off. If the Engine is Running and you hit this Button the Valve opens and floods the dyno and the external relay kills the ignition (and fuel pump). The engine should stop very quickly. When the system sees that the engine is stopped it will then close the valve and then turn itself Off. You should have the External Relay wired to cut the ignition and/or fuel pumps. 1. Start the engine. 2. Pickup the throttle a little and apply a little load. 3. Now Hit the Emergency STOP button 4. The engine should stop very quickly. 5. The valve should close and the ADL system shuts itself Off. Its good practice to occasionally test this feature, under controlled conditions, so that you don't have to think about what to do if a real Emergency occurs. The normal Emergency STOP Action is to pull back on the throttle while hitting the Emergency stop button. If you do not use the External Ignition Cut-off relay then the engine may continue to run at low RPM with the brake full of water. The brake itself will Not stall the engine. The ADL system will remain ON (and at full valve open) as long as the engine is still running. When you do stop the engine the valve will automatically close and turn the system off. 22

24 DEPAC Dyno Systems 201 Mill St. Rome NY (315) Exercise 10: RESET the Control Valve. NOTE: Every time you Turn ON the ADL system it will automatically cycle the valve to find its Reference Position (Closed or Open, depending on Dyno). Purpose: To demonstrate how to Reset the ADL System if the Valve losses its Reference Position while the engine is running or stopped. Summary: On Power-up the ADL Control system moves the valve to find its Reference Position. There is a magnetic sensor imbedded in the plate for this purpose. All movement after this is relative to this Closed Reference point. Some times the valve may lose track of its absolute position and therefore be at the wrong opening. So, if the Engine does not come up to the expected RPM for a LOAD setting then maybe the valve has lost its reference. It's easy to check and RESET the Valve. This should not happen very often, if at all. Whenever the engine is Off the System will check itself Automatically for its reference position and, if not, will Reset the Valve automatically. So by turning off the engine will cause the ADL Control to self-check its reference. Reseting the Valve while The Engine is Running and ADL is ON: Exercise Situation: Say We suspect that the system has lost its Valve Reference Point and we want to check and Reset the Valve, if needed. Method 1: Pull the throttle back to Idle and then turn the LOAD Knob to Zero for a moment (see the Yellow 'S' LED come on) and then turn it back to your normal setting. This commands a Valve Reset. You can then pick up the throttle again and see if that made any difference in the operating load point. Method 2: Stop the engine. The system will self-test and Reset the Valve automatically, if needed, without you touching the ADL panel. Restart the engine and continue your testing. Both Methods will cause the ADL System to check and reset the valve to its Reference position, if needed, while the system is still powered ON. Note: When the engine is not running, you can always push the system OFF, then back ON, to re-initialize the system and reset the inlet valve to the closed position. 23

25 DEPAC Dyno Systems 201 Mill St. Rome NY (315) Dyno Water Pressure Requirements: Water pumps with the same rated HP May Not be equal in PSI/Flow performance. (HP is just the rating of the motor). We need a pump that provides a steady pressure as the flow increases, not a pump where the pressure starts high and falls quickly at high flow. We provide a pressure gauge, mounted at the valve inlet, so we can monitor this water important pressure. This shows the effect of the pump's flow vs. pressure curve and any flow restriction in your plumbing. ANY Pressure changes shown here will affect dyno water flow and brake performance. The ADL Control does not compensate for a bad water pump and plumbing setup. Your pump may be OK but your plumbing may be very restrictive. The water PSI gauge on the ADL Valve is THE Important indicator. Restrictive plumbing may cause an excessive pressure drop from flow restrictions and not be a pump problem. If true, then it is best to fix the plumbing. Note: Any fittings you use on the brass inlet hose nipple Must be flush with the inside of the nipple. Any protrusions will affect the turbulent water flow profile and could affect the water flow split so important for a Stuska 800 dyno, or any other dual rotor water inlet dyno. Water Brake Dynos operate on water flow to absorb Power and there must be enough flow to keep the internal water temperature from being too hot. More power requires more flow to keep the temperature down. Stuska, Go-Power, and like dynos require an external water pump to supply water pressure to the smart ADL inlet valve, which then controls water flow to the brake. The ADL Control valve works best when the butterfly is open between 12% and 40% (as shown on the left LED display). The water pressure needs to be relatively consistent and drop little from zero flow to full load flow. A smooth pressure drop to 90% to 80% from No Load to Full Load is OK. RULE: If the ADL system needs more than 60% (on the LOAD digit display) to hold your motor, then you Need to provide More Water pressure. If the ADL system is set to start less than 10% the you need to reduce the water pressure. See rough table below. (Goal is to use the Butterfly Valve in the 15% to 50% optimum range) Stuska 400, 800, and most other dynos Dynos: (for 1 ½ ADL Valve) Maximum Engine BHP: Up to 200 BHP Water Pressure (at Full Load Flow) at ADL Valve Inlet: 30 PSI 200 to 400 BHP 40 to 50 PSI 400 to 1000 BHP 50 to 70 PSI Practical limit for Stuska 400 brake to 1800 BHP 70 to 90 PSI More than 2000 BHP 100 Plus PSI Go-Power dynos: Will require a little more water pressure than in the above table because of the single restricted 1" inlet adapter. More pressure is required at the ADL Valve outlet and this translates to a higher inlet pressure to compensate. This does not apply as much if you have modified the dyno to open more area and add more side inlets through a manifold flow splitter. 24

26 DEPAC Dyno Systems 201 Mill St. Rome NY (315) Stuska 800 Dyno Table below attempts to maintain an internal dyno water temperature of 115 to125 Deg F. See Page 24 for water pressure requirements 1 Drain Hose Maximum length 5 feet. Direct straight Down and back to minimize torque. Recommended Outlet Restriction and Pump PSI Valve Opening from CLOSED (Fully CW). Number of Quarter CCW Turns OPEN (4 quarter turns is One full turn) Continuous Inlet Water Temperature Deg. F Optimum INLET PSI Engine BHP Water 0 to 200 BHP 2 ¾ 3 3 ¼ 3 ½ 20 PSI 400 BHP 3 3 ½ 3 ¾ 4 30 PSI 600 BHP 3 ½ 4 4 ½ 5 45 PSI 800 BHP 4 ½ 5 5 ¾ 6 ½ 55 PSI 1000 BHP 5 5 ½ 6 ½ 7 ½ 65 PSI 1200 BHP 5 ½ PSI 1500 BHP PSI 1800 BHP 6 ½ 7 ½ 8 ½ 9 ½ 90 PSI 2000 BHP XXX 95 PSI 2250 BHP 8 8 ½ XXX XXX 100 PSI See page 24 25