Rear Speaker replacement. First off you need the right rear speakers. The easy bit is 6x9 and better than a 15W paper cone, the difficult bit is getting a mounting depth under 74mm. Or to be more precise, getting the specs of the speakers to see if they are under 74mm. I got some Alpine SPE 6903, which are 70.4mm deep, and match my front speakers and head unit.
Once you ve got some speakers that will fit, find a nice sunny day (you will need the light). Tools required are, a + screw driver, a long flat screw driver, or mini crow bar, and a 17(?)mm spanner (to take the rear seatbelt out). Other bits I needed were elephant tape and glue; you may also find these useful ;) I started on the passenger side, as I figured it would be easier with the panels being shorter. First off remove the small material panel that covers the top half of the speaker. Lift the back half away and pull/push it towards the back of the car. The clips that hold it in look like this: And the van will look like this
If you are really picky, then yes, I took this after I had finished, so that is the new speaker hiding in there. Next, if you have curtains un-hook them from the lower rail. Then get you fingers under the front of the top panel, the one with the curtain rail on it. I found that by pulling the rubber door seal back a bit I could get at the edge of the panel. Then pull! Push clips hold on the whole of this panel. It s also possible to slide your fingers down the window to the top of the panel and pull from there. Once out collect all the clips that are left in the van, and put them back in the panel. The van should then resemble this. Next go around the top taking out all the screws you can see, and noting where they came from. Some are slightly longer than others, so remember which goes where. Then take out the panel that is under the panel covering the speaker, and goes from beside the seat to the edge of the slide door. It just pulls off, but be careful, as it s not that strong. It looks like this, which also shows where the clips are.
Next there is another similar panel that goes on the other side of the wheel bulge. This one is made from hardboard, so is very fragile, the carpet is held on with the stuff they put on post it notes, and the clips are far too strong. This is where I needed the glue and elephant tape. First undo the bolt that secures the seatbelt to the van. Then use the flat screwdriver and slide your hand behind this panel and ease it off. Again this is easier once you ve done it and know where the clips are.
Undo the four screws that hold the speaker in, be careful you don t get the old and new speakers mixed up; it could be done oh so easily. Screw the new speaker into the bracket, attach the wires, and decide which direction they are going to go, and re-attach the speaker bracket. The original wires appear to run to the back of the van. My new wires don t. This is how I routed my wires: Please feel free to copy this or find a better way. I ran the cable from the speaker down to the fixing point for the centre row seatbelt (Just visible in the above picture). Then I removed the plastic foot well for the slide door, and ran the cable around the edge of this. A short hop under the carpet by the passenger door post to the foot well for the passenger door, and by taking that out I could run the cable around that foot well. Then I ran the cable up under the plastic cover under and to the left of the glove box. From here you can grab the cable from inside the glove box. Then I just twisted it around the other wires there to go across the top of the glove box and into the void behind the head unit. You get very good at sliding seats forwards and backwards doing this. Once the wires were in, simply reverse the take apart instructions to put it all back together. If you look at one of the first photos, the one with the small speaker cover, you ll see a screw in the foreground. That s the left over screw, compulsory when doing any DIY on a car. The right (drivers) side is a similar operation, with just a few subtle differences. The start is the same.
You then pop off the small cover over the top half of the speaker. Then unclip all the curtains, front and back this time. Then pull the top cover off, just like the first side, slide your fingers down the glass to just behind the top edge of the cover then pull. Take note however, this panel starts behind the back seats and goes forwards to the pillar behind the drivers door. Once the panel is off, collect all the clips from within the van s metal work and put them back on the panel. Then remove the small panels around the wheel arch. The rear one is a mirror of the passenger side, so the seatbelt bolt will need to be removed. To remove the front panel I found it easier to remove the rear most foot vent, pull the panel from the back to the front of the van, and just bend it out of the way. Just be careful, as it s only hardboard. Once these two small panels are out of the way you will need to undo the
rear most screw of the panel forwards of the one you want (the one with the heater controls in it). This is because the speaker panel goes under this one, you only need undo the rearmost screw, and you can then bend the panel enough to get the speaker panel out. It ll make sense when you re looking at it honest. Then main panel hiding the speaker can be removed, just take all the screws out of the top and bottom of the panel. Then carefully prise it away from the side of the van checking that all the screws have been removed. The two pens in the foreground I found behind this panel. Genuine Japanese pens, one previous owner, probably quite young, and quite distraught at the loss I would think. It always amazes me the trinkets I find whenever I work on the van, one trinket per job so far. The metal box attached the reverse of the panel I will come to later. From here the speaker mounting bracket can be seen, and easily removed.
Then go along the bottom of the panel that is still attached and remove the remaining screws. Once done, get hold of the panel and pull. Like most of the panels be careful, but the clips are quite strong. I pulled a bit, and looked down the back to see why it wouldn t move, and found a screw I had missed. From here it s quite easy. Undo the last couple of screws holding the speaker bracket in, unclip the wires.
From here it s all quite straight forwards. Remove the speaker bracket, swap the speakers, and remount the bracket. To route the cable: Again the original appears to go to the back of the van, my new cable doesn t. I ran it down from the speaker to the middle seatbelt fixing point. Here I took it under the edge of the carpet, and forwards to the foot well for the driver s door. Again I took out the plastic foot well, and ran the cable around the edge of this, and up under the plastic over at the front of the door opening. It is possible to prise this away from the door rubber, slip the cable behind and put the plastic back without undoing any screws. I then removed the lower trim under the steering wheel, and routed the cable through the jungle of wires, just under the steering column, and across to behind the head unit. Putting the side of the van back together is just the reverse of taking it apart. Putting the big top panel back on is quite satisfying, as you have to thump it back into place. Now going back to that little metal box. It s the receiver for the remote central locking. And on the rear facing side is a small hole.
With a switch hidden it. The switch is used to tell this box to learn the key fobs. The box can learn two key fobs. Slide switch up press key fob 1, slide switch down press key fob 2, return switch to centre (running) position and test. I know what the box is and how to set it up from reading lots of posts, not from playing.