Helpful Installation Hints
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- Angelina Peters
- 5 years ago
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1 Helpful Installation Hints Because most suspensions travel in arc, the use of a lift or supporting the vehicle by the frame and allowing the wheels to hang can cause bar misalignment and installation difficulties. The use of ramps or other devices that support the vehicle by the wheels is highly recommended for proper bar alignment and installation. In most cases of "This bar does not fit my car!," the problem is that a lift was used and the wheels were allowed to hang. Remember, the suspension must be at static ride height. When installing kits on vehicles that were not equipped with OEM bars or that require holes to be drilled for hardware mounting, it is important that the bar be positioned so that the end-links are as close to vertical or perpendicular to its mounting points as possible. If necessary, the end-links may lean as much as 20 degrees without adverse effects. On some kits, the mid-section bracket must be mounted very close to the bends in the bar. This is acceptable as long as the bracket does not actually contact the bar itself and still allows the bar to pivot. Some kits for GM trailing arm rear suspension (i.e. #939, #943) will not fit correctly when installed using the factory holes in the trailing arms. In most cases new holes must be drilled in the trailing arms for correct installation. On bars that have a rubber block bushing on the bar end in lieu of end-links (i.e. #889, #781, #759, #721, #748, #820), the use of urethane bushings on the bars' ends are not recommended because of the binding effects in the ends. On axle mount kits that use locking devices, it is important that the assembly is tightened until the base plate deforms slightly or until there is approximately a 3/16" gap between the axle tube and bottom of the locking device. This will help to minimize the chance of the assembly rotating or slipping on the axle. For ease of installation on bars that require holes to be drilled, the bar can be tied in position with rope while marking the vehicle for drilling. For proper tightness of end-links and maximum bushing life, the end-link nut should be tightened until you can no longer rotate the spacer by hand. Over-tightening end-links could result in bolt failure. Mid-section bushing bracket should not be allowed to squeeze the bar. Over tightened bushings will result in noisy bar operation and accelerated bushing wear. If curved or uneven frame surface causes the bracket to squeeze the "D" bushing onto the bar, the bracket should be shimmed up with a washer. Synthetic brake caliper or a marine grade grease can be used on tight fitting rubber bushings. Urethane mid-section bushings must be lubed. Special Installation Notes 1. This bar is not a wheel locator like the original factory anti-sway bar/locator but a genuine antisway bar that works in addition to the locator that was factory installed. Do not remove the OEM locator bar.
2 2. If the truck is equipped with a large muffler that is tipped up on its side or positioned close to the inside of the frame rail, use #291 on the 3/4 ton truck and #396 on the 1/2 ton truck. 3. The #220 and #977 kits both contain the same bar. The #977 kit comes with hanger rods and mounting hardware. The #220 kit uses the existing hanger rods from the factory installed rear bar. 4. On some high performance models (SS, GTO, 442), the rear lower control arms are enclosed (boxed) for added strength. The #939 kit will not work on cars that are equipped with these enclosed arms. The #324 must be used on these cars or the #690 or #692 as O.E. replacements. The #690 and #692 are for the models only. 5. Ford used two different frames on these model trucks. The #209 will fit on trucks with a 36" wide rear frame. The #396 will fit on 1/2 ton trucks with a 31" wide frame, and #291 on the 3/4 ton truck with a 31" frame. (Frame widths are center to center). 6. On models equipped with big blocks use #715, available only in a 1" diameter. The #715 is designed to avoid the oil filter. 7. This bar must be used if you have an existing bar on your vehicle. This bar is a larger diameter that the factory bar, but uses the same mounting points as the original factory bar. It requires the use of special hardware that was factory installed. This kit may not contain all the hardware that is required for installation. This cannot be used without the original hardware. 8. Some models are equipped with an original factory bar that must be removed to allow installation of this kit. 9. This bar was designed to work in addition to the factory installed original bar, not to replace it. The original factory bar remains in place due to the difficulties involved with removing it. 10. When the legs of U-bolt that attaches the axle to the leaf spring is pointing upwards use # The #301 & #333 kits both contain the same bar. The #333 is an original factory bar replacement kit that requires the use of hardware from the original factory rear bar. 12. Two different bars were used on these models, depending on engine type. If your original factory front bar dips up in the center, over the exhaust pipe, use #731. If your original factory front bar dips down in the center, under the exhaust pipe, use #523. Inspect your original front bar for correct type. 13. This bar is an original factory type replacement which mounts in the factory location and is a larger diameter than the original factory bar. 14. Some models came with hollow factory bars. Our bars are solid and therefore have a higher resistance even with the same bar diameter This is not a replacement bar. This bar can be used in addition to the factory bar. NOTE: Many slow moving applications have been removed from this catalog, but they are still available!! If you do not see an application for your vehicle, PLEASE INQUIRE!!
3 Neutral Steer Front and rear drift are equal. Car will end up close to start point. (A little further out since both ends are drifting but still pointed in the same direction.) A little oversteer would compensate for drift of both ends and result in a perfect circle. Oversteer Rear tire drift is greater than that of front tire and rear end tends to "spin out." Car in circle will end up closer to center of the circle because rear wheel drift changes its direction inward. Required Reading Understeer Front tire drift causes car to refuse to turn as sharply as the direction in which the front wheels pointed. Car can fail to "negotiate" curve. If wheel is held at given turn and throttle held constant, car will not make a true circle because front wheel drift changes its direction outward Tire Drift Transfer of weight to outside front wheel without heavy enough rear bar (or front bar) distorts tires that actually "creep" or "drift" sideways on road surface. Some Important Notes of Bar Diameters Torque resistance of an anti-sway bar changes with the square of the cross sectional area. Therefore, even a small increase in diameter provides a major increase in anti-sway bar effectiveness. The chart below shows the effectiveness of ADDCO replacement bars as a percentage of resistance of a stock bar of a given diameter, keeping in mind that the relationship applies only to two bars of identical shape. 1 1/4" 1601% 779% 418% 224% 152% 1 1/8" 1051% 511% 274% 160%. 1" 655% 319% 171%.. 7/8" 382% 186%... 3/4" 205% /8" 3/4" 7/8" 1" 1/8" Remember, Bigger is not always better. Play it safe and stick with ADDCO's recommendations for your particular application. How an Anti-Sway Bar and End-Links Work Together
4 As you can see in the illustration above, the body cannot roll without pushing down on one end of the anti-sway bar and lifting on the other. As the midsection of the bar resists twisting, it limits the amount of body roll. This is what will keep your car flat through curves. High Performance Urethane Anti-Sway Bar Midsection Bushings FOR COMPACT & FOREIGN CARS 2 HOLE BRACKET HOLE & TAB BRACKET 5/8" 15.8mm 610B 3/4" 19.0mm 611B 7/8" 22.2mm 612B 1" 25.4mm 613B 5/8" 15.8mm 610B 3/4" 19.0mm 611B 7/8" 22.2mm 612B 1" 25.4mm 613B FOR STANDARD SIZE CARS SLOTTED TWO HOLE BRACKET 5/8" 15.8mm 610D 3/4" 19.0mm 611D 7/8" 22.2mm 612D 15/16" 23.8MM 617D 1" 25.4mm 613D 1 1/8" 28.5mm 614D 1 1/4" 31.7mm 615d High Performance Urethane Anti-Sway Bar End-Links Checked Your Anti-Sway Bushings Lately? New ADDCO End-links and Midsections with urethane bushings imporove the efficiency of any stock anti-sway bar, but for optimum performance should be paired with ADDCO front and rear anti-sway bar kits.
5
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