Door Won t Lock or Unlock with the Key

Transcription

1 August 2011 Helping you fix it right the first time - every time Door Won t Lock or Unlock with the Key Currently Applies To: 12 Civic The front door lock cylinders now use a direct shaft instead of a cable. But if the lock cylinder shaft doesn't properly engage with the door lock assembly, you won t be able to lock or unlock the door with the key. If that s the case, it s an easy fix. Here s what to do: 1. Remove the plug from the lock cylinder access hole. 3. Insert the key into the lock cylinder, and pull the cylinder straight out. The key helps keep the cylinder aligned and makes removal easier. 4. Check the cross-shaped end on the shaft for damage. Replace the lock cylinder if needed. 2. Remove the 6 x 10 mm mounting bolt underneath. Use a magnetic tip socket so it doesn t fall down inside the door. 5. With the key still inserted, reinstall the cylinder. Turn the key back and forth a bit to ensure that the shaft end properly engages with the door lock assembly. 6. Reinstall the mounting bolt, and torque it to 9.5 N. m (7 lb-ft).

2 Door Won t Lock or Unlock with the Key Make sure the door lock works properly. 8. Reinstall the plug. Power Windows, Moonroof Won t Work with Key or Keyless Remote Currently Applies To: Accord, 11 Odyssey, and Pilot Power windows, moonroof, or both, not working with the key or the keyless remote? Before you consider replacing parts, make sure the auto up/down function for the windows and the one-touch open/close function for the moonroof are both working right. If they aren t, you ll have this problem. The system is made to work so when you turn the key in the driver s door lock a second time within 15 seconds and hold it, the windows and moonroof open or close at the same time. Turning the key clockwise opens them; turning it counterclockwise closes them. When you let go of the key, the action stops. When you press and hold the UNLOCK button on the keyless remote a second time within 15 seconds, the windows and moonroof open. When you let go, the action stops. The windows don t close with the LOCK button. If the auto up/down or one-touch open/close functions aren t working right, reset the applicable control unit, and retest with the key and keyless remote. If that does the trick, you re done. If it doesn t, then continue with normal troubleshooting. New SRS Supplier for 12 Civic Sedans Currently Applies To: 12 Civic Sedan Because of parts shortages, we changed our SRS supplier from TRW to Continental on July 11, This change affected all Indiana- and Canada-built models. On July 20, 2011, we changed our supplier back to TRW for just the Canada-built models. All Indianabuilt models will keep using Continental. Keep in mind, these two systems aren t interchangeable, so be careful not to mix any parts during a repair. If you do, you ll wind up with the SRS indicator on along with communication and ID serial number mismatch DTCs. Can t Send HDS Files to Tech Line? Check Out This Work-Around EDITOR S NOTE: This article replaces Can t Send HDS Files to Tech Line? Check Out This Work- Around in the August 08 issue of ServiceNews. Need to send Tech Line an HDS file (snapshot, on-board snapshot, DTC/freeze data, etc.)? When everything s running right, it s short work using the HDS. But if there s a problem with your dealership s network, American Honda s network, or both, you ll need to do a work-around to get the job done. In this case, it means attaching the file to an and sending it directly to Tech Line. Here s how. NOTE: These instructions are for the Windows XP operating system, but are similar to those for Windows Vista or Select My Computer. 2. Select C:. 3. Select HORWA05DS. 4. Select STORED FILES. 5. Select Automotive, then the folder that goes with the captured file (Snapshot, OnBoardSnapshot, etc.) 6. Select the file you want to send. Look at what s listed for the vehicle, the system, and the time to make sure you ve got the right one. 7. Open your PC s program, attach that file to a new message, and send it to Techline@ahm.honda.com. MPORTANT REMINDER: Tech Line s address is for sending HDS files and photo files only. It s not for sending questions about repairs, parts, or customer-related issues. So don t expect any sort of answer either by or phone; you won t get one. For repair-related questions, you need to call Tech Line with a reference number or access code and talk with a specialist. For parts-related questions, your best bet is the parts analyst at your nearest parts center. And, for those customer-related questions, give the folks in Automobile Customer Service a call at ; they re always willing to help. If you have any problems using this work-around or questions about it, call the Special Tools Hotline at The friendly folks there will be glad to help you. 2 of 5 August 2011

3 Engine Noise, A/C Not Working Right? Check Compressor Clutch First Currently Applies To: All models with A/C Got a vehicle in your shop because there s an engine noise from the drive belt area, the A/C sometimes doesn t work, or it doesn t work at all? What you might be dealing with is too much clearance (air gap) in the A/C compressor clutch set or worn clutch parts, so don t replace the whole compressor. Those symptoms can vary, depending on how bad the problem is, and for how long it s been going on. To your service customer, if the clutch intermittently slips under acceleration or doesn t engage at higher temperatures, it looks like the A/C isn t doing a good job. And it can take some time before it s even noticed. Heat from the slipping clutch can eventually damage the rotor pulley bearing and the field coil. To troubleshoot these problems, here are some handy tips: Check the PGM-FI Data List. Hook up the HDS, and go to the PGM-FI Data List. Scroll down to A/C SWITCH and A/C CLUTCH. The A/C SWITCH signal tells you the control panel is getting the A/C request and trying to supply a ground. The A/C CLUTCH signal tells you the ECM/PCM is trying to supply a ground for the compressor clutch relay. Keep in mind that circuit problems can keep either of those events from happening. If both values read ON (green light), the compressor clutch should be engaged. If it s not engaged, you re probably looking at too much clutch clearance or an open (high-resistance) field coil. Pinpoint the noise. It sounds like a whirring, grinding, scraping, or humming, and might not be noticeable until the engine has been running for a while. You ll usually hear it best with the compressor clutch disengaged. When it engages, the noise changes pitch or goes away. To pinpoint that noise, hold the engine speed steady at 2,000 rpm with a throttle depressor tool. Then, with a mechanic s stethoscope, touch each part that s driven by the accessory drive belt. You ll hear that noise the loudest at the compressor body or the aluminum part of the lines that are bolted to it. Before you blame the rotor pulley bearing, make sure the compressor mounting bolts are torqued to spec and the A/C lines aren t touching the body. Loose bolts or line contact can make a similar noise to the one you re trying to pinpoint. Do some initial checks. To find out if you re dealing with a compressor clutch problem or something else in the A/C system first check these items with the compressor in place: - Armature plate finish: Check it for blistering or burning. - Field coil: Measure the resistance, and compare it to the spec in ISIS. If it reads open (infinite resistance) or it s the least bit out of spec, the field coil will need replacing. It s designed to protect the compressor and shaft seal by opening if it overheats. NOTE: Since you re working with a lowresistance part, make sure your digital multimeter is zeroed out before you start, to allow for any resistance in the test leads. For more info on that, go to Online University and check out self-study module ELC31 - How to Measure Resistance. - Clutch clearance: Check it with a feeler gauge, and compare it to the spec in ISIS. Use the long side of the gauge, and slide it into the gap no more than 1/8 inch (3 mm). You ve got to do that because uneven armature plate wear can mask a clearance problem. If the armature plate s finish is damaged, or the measured field coil resistance or clutch clearance is out of spec, you ve probably got a clutch problem. At this point, you ll need to remove the compressor for further inspection. August of 5

4 Engine Noise, A/C Not Working Right? Check Compressor Clutch First... Check other A/C parts. Other A/C system problems can lead to compressor clutch problems, so be sure to check for these conditions as part of your troubleshooting: - Oil leaking onto the clutch surfaces - Too much discharge pressure from compressor clutch relay problems - A condenser or radiator fan that s not working - One or both fans not turning the right way - A dirty, corroded, or damaged condenser - An aftermarket condenser To fix these problems, check out the August 11 ServiceNews article A/C Compressor Clutch Inspection and Replacement Tips. A/C Compressor Clutch Inspection and Replacement Tips Currently Applies To: All models with A/C In the August 11 ServiceNews article Engine Noise, A/C Not Working Right? Check Compressor Clutch First, we talked about troubleshooting an A/C compressor clutch with too much clutch clearance (air gap) or worn parts. Here s some good stuff to know if you need to further inspect that clutch and replace it. We ve also included some valuable tips on getting that clearance right. To further inspect the compressor clutch, remove the armature plate and look for grooves worn into the friction surface. Check the rotor pulley for heat discoloration and the friction surface for spalled or smeared metal. Give the pulley a good spin, and check for a rough or noisy bearing. Most compressor clutch problems can be repaired. It s rare that you ever need to replace the whole compressor. To fix these problems, replace the compressor clutch (armature plate and rotor pulley). If needed, replace the field coil. If you do, make sure you also replace the clutch, or you could find yourself doing a lot of extra work and winding up with a comeback. To replace the compressor clutch and field coil, use the A/C Compressor Kit (T/N 07AAF-000A150). It s a required special tool that we sent to all dealers back in August 09. For a demo on how to use it, checkout the Tech2Tech segment Safely Remove That Rotor Pulley with the A/C Compressor Kit. The rotor pulley and field coil are held in place with large snap rings. Make sure you remove them, or you ll damage the compressor housing. Use the new snap rings that come with the parts, and install them with the beveled side facing up (away from the compressor). Never try to hammer or pry the rotor pulley off the compressor! You could crack or break its front housing, and that means compressor replacement at your dealer s expense! To allow for new parts, always check the clutch clearance with a feeler gauge, and change the armature plate shims if needed. Don t assume the old shims will work or let the clearance just fall where it may. There s no guarantee the clearance was right in the first place or that the new parts have the exact same dimensions as the old ones. Clutch clearance doesn t need to be superprecise, but it does need to be within the spec in ISIS. If you re a perfectionist, aim for the low to middle range. The replacement clutch set includes a shim kit, which you can also order separately from Honda parts stock. You ll typically get one shim in each of these thicknesses: inch (0.1 mm) inch (0.2 mm) inch (0.4 mm) inch (0.5 mm) The shim thicknesses aren t marked or colorcoded, so make sure you ve got a digital micrometer or a caliper handy to keep things straight. Changing shims changes the clutch clearance by nearly a 1:1 ratio. Adding shims increases that clearance; subtracting them decreases it. To set the clearance, you might need more than one shim. We ve talked about adjusting clutch clearance, so what happens if you don t get it right? Here s the lowdown: Not enough clearance: The armature plate could rub or drag on the rotor pulley when the compressor is cycled off. That causes a big buildup of heat, which can damage the clutch and the compressor shaft seal. 4 of 5 August 2011

5 A/C Compressor Clutch Inspection and Replacement Tips... Too much clearance: The clutch might not engage at higher engine compartment temperatures. No clearance: The clutch stays engaged when the compressor should be off. System pressures and temperatures will climb since the radiator and condenser fans aren t working. The pressure relief valve could open to bleed off high-pressure refrigerant, causing poor cooling. You could also wind up with compressor and system damage. Aftermarket Trailer Hitch Wiring Can Cause Electrical Problems Got a vehicle with any or all of these symptoms: Rearview camera displays an image randomly Turn signal indicators come on randomly Cruise control cancels with turn signal or hazard light use The VSA indicator comes on with VSA DTC 68-1 (brake pedal position switch stuck off) or (brake position switch stuck on) If the vehicle has an aftermarket trailer hitch, and it s causing a back feed, that could be the problem. Let your service advisor know that they should talk to the customer and get approval to remove the trailer hitch s aftermarket wiring. Once approved, remove the wiring, and test-drive the vehicle to see if this gets rid of the symptoms. New HDS Software Release: Version During the week of August 1, every Honda dealer was shipped a new HDS software release on CD. This CD has a white label with red lettering that reads HDS VER , and it s dated August Your system administrator should load this software onto the HDS master or standalone HDS PCs. Version contains various critical control module updates. If you ve got any questions or concerns about this new software, call the Special Tools Hotline at IMPORTANT: Make sure this software gets installed on all HDS devices right away. Your dealership will be considered out of compliance if it s not done within 3 business days of receipt. Also, any repairs done with out-of-date HDS software might not be covered under warranty. You can also download this HDS software from the Internet. Just go to You ll need a user name and password, so call the Special Tools Hotline at Have your dealer number when you call; they ll ask for it. Rattle from Rear When Going Over Bumps Currently Applies To: 11 Odyssey Got a customer who hears a rattle coming from the rear of the vehicle when driving over bumps at low to medium speeds? It s not an interior rattle and it s not being transmitted through the body; in fact, you only hear it when at least one of the windows is open. Test-drive the vehicle over some bumps with the windows open to see if you can hear the noise. If you do, drive the vehicle back over the same bumps with the parking brake partially applied. If the rattle goes away, adjust the parking brake the way it s described in the Parking Brake Major Adjustment section in ISIS, but in step 6, back off the adjuster 10 clicks instead of American Honda Motor Co., Inc. - All Rights Reserved. Published by AHM Parts and Service Communications, 1919 Torrance Blvd., Torrance, CA All suggestions become the property of American Honda Motor Co., Inc.; sending a suggestion gives Honda permission to publish it without further consideration. ASN (1108)