Table of contents. Table of contents Repair manual

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3 Table of contents Table of contents 1. Introduction Safety precautions Symbols Main shaft and bearing Front bearing Front bearing disassembly Repairing the front bearing Assembly of the front bearing Installing the front bearing Rear-end bearing Rear-end bearing disassembly Repairing the rear-end bearings Assembly of the rear-end bearing Installing the rear-end bearing Intermediate shaft Impeller Impeller type Removing the impeller Repairing the impeller Installing the impeller Reversing deflector and operating hydraulics Reversing deflector Removing the reversing deflector Repairing the reversing deflector Installing the reversing deflector Operating hydraulics Removing the cylinder Repairing the cylinder Installing the cylinder Cylinder adjustment Hydraulic pump Removing the hydraulic pump Repairing the hydraulic pump Installing the hydraulic pump Replacing the oil filter Steering nozzle and operating shaft Steering nozzle Removing the steering nozzle Repairing the steering nozzle Installing the steering nozzle Steering shaft Removing the steering shaft Repairing the steering shaft Installing the steering shaft Stator Removing the stator Repairing the stator Installing the stator Appendix 1. Grease recommendations Appendix 2. Oil recommendations Appendix 3. Tightening torques KM/288/EN/1.2.0 iii

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5 Introduction 1. Introduction This is the repair manual for Alamarin-Jet's AJ 288 water jet propulsion unit. This manual is intended for the owners, users, and repair persons of boats that are equipped with the Alamarin-Jet water jet propulsion unit. With the help of this manual, they can carry out the most common repair procedures for AJ 288 water jet propulsion units. Alamarin-Jet Oy Tuomisentie 16 FI Härmä, Finland Telephone: Fax: Internet: All rights reserved. The information in this manual may not be copied, published or reproduced in any way whatsoever, or exploited for commercial purposes, without express written permission from Alamarin-Jet Oy. The information in this manual is subject to change without notice. Alamarin- Jet Oy reserves the right to modify the contents without notice Safety precautions 1.2. Symbols Read these instructions carefully before carrying out any procedures. Always follow these instructions and the safety precautions shown below. Only a person with adequate training is allowed to carry out the procedures described in this manual. The person carrying out the procedures must always wear the appropriate protective equipment. The work premises must be sufficiently large, safe and well-lit. The tools that are to be used must be clean and appropriate for the intended purpose. Please refer to table 1 for a description of the symbols used in this manual. Table 1. The symbols used in the manual Icon Description DANGER Negligence in the performance of a procedure can cause a threat to your life. WARNING Negligence in the performance of the procedures can lead to personal injury, breakdown of equipment, or serious malfunction of the equipment. KM/288/EN/

6 Introduction Icon Description CAUTION The procedure involves minor danger or a possibility of minor damage to equipment. WARRANTY The warranty is voided if the procedure is carried out incorrectly. NOTE Important notice or fact. TIP Additional information that facilitates the performance of work or a procedure. MAINTENANCE ON LAND The boat must be lifted out of the water for maintenance. MAINTENANCE IN WATER The maintenance procedure can be carried out in water. CARRIED OUT BY ONE PERSON One person can carry out the procedure. CARRIED OUT BY TWO PERSONS Two persons must carry out the procedure. INDICATOR ARROW ARROW DESCRIBING MOTION Please note that this instruction uses the terms "jet" and "jet propulsion unit". They mainly refer to the same thing. 2 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

7 Main shaft and bearing 2. Main shaft and bearing The power from the engine that runs the jet is transmitted to the main shaft using an intermediate shaft. The intermediate shaft is attached to the coupling flange in one end, and either the gear box or the engine flywheel adapter in the other end. The intermediate shaft is often acquired and installed by the manufacturer of the boat and can, therefore, not be discussed in detail in this document. However, some central issues related to it are described at a general level in the section 2.3. Intermediate shaft, page 27. The main shaft of the jet is a direct shaft (figure 1, point A), supported at both ends with bearings. At the front end of the shaft is a coupling flange (figure 1, point B), to which the intermediate shaft is connected. The shaft is also equipped with an impeller (figure 1, point C), connected with friction and cotter joints. The impeller generates pressure as it rotates. Figure 1. Main shaft and bearing The front end has a double-cone angular contact ball bearing, receiving axial thrust and radial loads in every direction. The bearing is inside the housing (figure 1, point D), and it is oil-lubricated. The bearing housing seal on the intake duct side is a mechanical rotary seal (figure 1, point E). The shaft seal is on the engine room side. The rear bearing (figure 1, point F) is attached to the stator. There is a needle bearing, which is lubricated from the engine room with petroleum jelly, within the housing. Alternatively, a water lubricated bearing can be used Front bearing Front bearing disassembly KM/288/EN/

8 Main shaft and bearing Before the bearing can be disassembled, remove the stator (section 6.1. Removing the stator, page 63) the impeller (section 3.2. Removing the impeller, page 30). Then, remove the intermediate shaft from the coupling flange the oil pump of the reversing deflector's actuating cylinder (section Removing the hydraulic pump, page 46). Make sure you also have a container into which you can drain the old oil from the system. Front bearing disassembly: 1. Detach the lubricating oil reservoir connectors off of the bearing housing (figure 2) and drain the oil from the system. Drain the oil from the ends of the hoses into a suitable container. Depending on the length of the hoses, the oil reservoir and hoses contain approximately 2 to 3 litres of oil. Figure 2. Lubricating oil reservoir connectors 2. If possible, empty the bearing housing through the drain plug below (figure 3). The bearing housing contains approximately 2dl of oil. 4 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

9 Main shaft and bearing Figure 3. Emptying the bearing housing 3. Remove the coupling flange. If you need to replace the entire bearing, including the shaft, you can leave the coupling flange in place and the remove the bearing housing screws through the holes on the coupling flange (figure 4, point C). However, this is not an option with older models that do not have the holes on the coupling flange. Please note that the fastening nut of the flange has a safety spacer to prevent any unintended loosening of the nut (figure 4, point A). Before the fastening nut can be opened, the spacer must be straightened. Use a hammer and mandrel, for example, to unbend the spacer. Figure 4. Coupling flange fastening nut 4. Unscrew the nut (figure 4, point B) and pull the coupling flange from the cone with a sturdy extraction tool. There is a special tool available that covers and protects the end of the shaft when an extraction tool is used. There is also an extraction tool available as an accessory that is specifically designed for removing the coupling flange. The use of these tools is recommended in order to prevent damage to the end of the shaft. The product code of the extraction tool is while the product code of the shaft's protective sleeve is KM/288/EN/

10 Main shaft and bearing The actual base plate beneath the nut comes out with the coupling flange. 5. Remove the wedge from the shaft (figure 5, point A). Figure 5. Removing the bearing housing 6. Open the bearing housing screws (6 in total, figure 5, point B). The bearing housing cover (figure 5, point C) comes loose. 7. Pull the shaft off the body. The procedure may require some extra strength or force because the sealing of the bearing housing is reinforced with adhesive and sealing compound (such as Sikaflex 221). If necessary, the shaft can be pushed from the back towards the engine room (figure 6). Figure 6. Shaft thrust The bearing housing comes loose together with the shaft, bearings, and the mechanical seal (figure 7). 6 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

11 Main shaft and bearing Figure 7. Bearing housing, shaft, bearings, and mechanical seal 8. Turn the safety plate latch (figure 8, point A) up from the spinner nut groove, and unscrew the spinner nut (figure 8, point B). The safety plate comes loose when the nut is unscrewed. Figure 8. Removing the safety plate 9. Pull the bearing (figure 9, point B) and the bearing housing (figure 9, point C) off of the shaft. The mechanical seal (figure 9, point D) can also be removed. However, it may be tight due to the pressure on the shaft that is caused by the rubber bellows. An o-ring is used as sealing between the bearing housing and its cover (figure 9, point A). KM/288/EN/

12 Main shaft and bearing Figure 9. Removing the bearing housing from the shaft Seals Mechanical seal The mechanical seal consists of several parts (figure 10). Figure 10. Mechanical seal A B C D E F Static slip-ring seal Static slip-ring, pressed to the bearing housing together with the seal Rotating slip-ring Spring for pressing the sealing faces against each other Rubber bellows Sealing support ring 8 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

13 Main shaft and bearing The slip surfaces are of silicon carbide, which is an extremely durable material. In order to achieve a high level of sealing, the surfaces must be perfectly smooth. If the slip surfaces show signs of mechanical damage, the seal must be replaced. The water on the outside and the oil in the bearing housing both lubricate and cool the slip surfaces. Support ring F (figure 10) is attached to the shaft with a crimped joint. It can be removed by heating, for example. Parts A and B (figure 10) are removed by pushing them from the bearing side. O-ring An o-ring is used as sealing between the bearing housing and the jet's body (figure 11). Figure 11. O-ring When opening the bearing housing, there may be small amounts of white oil in the rubber bellows of the mechanical seal and the joint surface of the slip-ring. This is a sign of water in the bearing housing. This is completely normal and will not cause any problems. When the shaft rotates, the oil circulates through the oil reservoir and the water gathers at the bottom of the reservoir. Shaft seals A shaft seal that seals the front end of the bearing housing is attached to the bearing housing cover. The seal lip will rub against the surface of the coupling flange. Remove the shaft seal by pushing it from the coupling flange side (figure 12). KM/288/EN/

14 Main shaft and bearing Figure 12. Shaft seal of the bearing housing A shaft seal is also attached to the coupling flange to keep oil off of the cone joint surface. It can be removed with a screwdriver, for example (figure 13). As this seal does not move against the shaft, it will not wear like the others. Figure 13. Coupling flange shaft seal Repairing the front bearing Under normal circumstances, the operating life of the front bearing is thousands of driving hours. However, if the lubrication weakens due to, for example, the failure of the seal or dirty oil, the operating life of the bearing will decrease rapidly. A worn bearing will make noise and may cause the bearing housing to overheat. The bearings must be replaced after 3,000 driving hours, except when used with a low load on the jet, i.e. mainly running at low engine speeds. The wearing parts of the front bearing include the bearings, mechanical seal, and front shaft seal. All of the wearing parts and the coupling flange seal should be replaced every time the bearing replaced. 10 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

15 Main shaft and bearing When replacing the bearings, check the following issues: straightness of the shaft location of the mechanical seal on the shaft (the surface must be free of scratches) external condition of the bearing housings external condition of the coupling flange (particularly where the shaft seal rubs against the coupling flange). Measuring the straightness of the shaft The straightness of the shaft is measured from three points (figure 14). Figure 14. Measuring the straightness of the shaft A Supporting point 1 B Supporting point 2 C Measuring point The maximum permissible deviation measured from the surface of the shaft is 0.15 mm, in which case the dislocation of the centre line is mm. NOTE! Measure the straightness carefully. Excessive deviation in the straightness will cause several problems, the most significant being the excessive wearing of the impeller and bearings Assembly of the front bearing The front bearing must be assembled before it can be reinstalled. Assembly of the front bearing: 1. Install the mechanical seal. Be careful not to damage the slip-ring (figure 15, point B) during installation. If the seal is pressed into its place in a slanted position, and KM/288/EN/

16 Main shaft and bearing the slip-ring can scratch the surface of the shaft, the slip-ring may be damaged Heat the sealing support ring (figure 10, point F) until it slips into its place unobstructed Let the parts cool down Lubricate the surface of the shaft where the rubber bellows rest (figure 15, point A). Figure 15. Installing the mechanical seal The rubber bellows will not move on the shaft surface if it is not lubricated. CAUTION! Only special lubricating gel that vaporises between the rubber and shaft may be used for the lubrication. If the lubricant used for the rubber bellows contains oil, the bellows might rub against the shaft surface and thereby cause insufficient sealing. If the gel is not available, the bellows may be lubricated with a small amount of water. The rubber bellows is pressed tightly against the support ring Push the rotating part of the mechanical seal (figure 10, points C, D, and E) into their places against the support ring. 2. Push the static part of the mechanical seal into the bearing housing together with the seal (figure 10, points A and B). Figure 16 shows the static ring in its correct position. 12 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

17 Main shaft and bearing Figure 16. Static ring 3. Push the bearings in the bearing housing in the right way (figure 17). Figure 17. Pushing the bearings in the bearing housing Figure 18 shows a cross-section of the bearing housing with the bearings in place. Figure 18. Bearing housing (cross-section) KM/288/EN/

18 Main shaft and bearing 4. Push the fully assembled bearing housing onto the shaft according to figure 17. Please note that the bearings may complicate the sliding. Lubrication makes it easier to push the bearing housing into its proper place. 5. Push the safety plate and the spinner nut onto the shaft. The safety plate wedge (figure 19, point A) must point towards the bearing. The wedge is set onto the level surface on the shaft (figure 19, point B). Figure 19. Safety plate wedge 6. Screw the spinner nut into place. The tightening torque is 150 Nm. 7. Push one locking blade into the groove on the nut (figure 20, point A). Figure 20. Locking blade 8. Place the o-ring that is used between the bearing housing and its cover into place on the outer race of the bearing (figure 20, point B). 9. Push the shaft seal into the bearing housing cover with the seal lip towards the bearings (figures 21 and 22). 14 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

19 Main shaft and bearing Figure 21. Attaching the shaft seal Figure 22. Shaft seal 10. Install the bearing housing cover in its place with the o-ring (figure 20, point B) between the housings. 11. Install the o-ring (figure 23). KM/288/EN/

20 Main shaft and bearing Figure 23. O-ring Installing the front bearing Assemble the front bearing before installing (section Assembly of the front bearing, page 11). Front bearing installation: 1. Clean the part of the jet's body where the bearing housing is to be installed. The installation surface must be free of any old sealing compound or other impurities and be straight. 2. Ensure the sealing by spreading sealing compound (such as Sikaflex 221) on the shoulder (figure 24) at the o-ring. Figure 24. Shoulder 3. Push the shaft bearing into its place through the hole in the jet's body (figure 25, point A), and tighten the bearing housing fastening screws (6 in total, figure 25, point B). 16 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

21 Main shaft and bearing The tightening torque of the screws is 50 Nm. Figure 25. Attaching the bearing housing 4. If necessary, install the new coupling flange shaft seal (figure 26). Figure 26. Installing the shaft seal 5. Push the coupling flange wedge into the groove (figure 27) and push the coupling flange to the end of the shaft. Please note that the wedge must not be entirely within the groove so that the shaft seal can fit over it. When the coupling flange is in its place, push the wedge entirely into the groove. KM/288/EN/

22 Main shaft and bearing Figure 27. Coupling flange wedge 6. Set the coupling flange spacer onto the shaft in the correct way (figure 28). Figure 28. Installing the coupling flange spacer 7. Set the locking spacer so that the bracket on the inner race of the spacer (figure 29, point A) sets into the wedge groove (figure 29, point B). Figure 29. Installing the locking spacer 18 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

23 Main shaft and bearing 8. Tighten the coupling flange fastening nut. The tightening torque is 125 Nm. 9. Bend the spacer from the outer race in order to lock the nut in its place (figure 30). For this, you will need a steel pin with an L-shaped point. Figure 30. Bending the spacer 10. Install the stator (section 6.3. Installing the stator, page 66). 11. Install the hydraulic pump (section Installing the hydraulic pump, page 50) Rear-end bearing Rear-end bearing disassembly Rear-end bearing disassembly: 1. Remove the stator (section 6.1. Removing the stator, page 63). The rear bearing housing is attached to the stator with three screws. The screws are under the grease cup. 2. Remove the grease cup by rotating it with pliers, for example (figure 31). KM/288/EN/

24 Main shaft and bearing Figure 31. Removing the grease cup 3. Unscrew the bearing housing screws (figure 32, point A) remove the seal blanking plate (figure 32, point B). Figure 32. Removing the rear bearing housing 4. Screw one of the fastening screws into the threaded hole under the blanking plate (figure 33). Figure 33. Extracting the rear bearing housing 20 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

25 Main shaft and bearing 5. Tighten the screw carefully until the bearing housing comes loose. 6. Pull the bearing housing off the stator. Newer models: 1. Remove the stator (section 6.1. Removing the stator, page 63). 2. The rear bearing housing is attached to the stator with three screws (figure 34). Undo the screws and remove the plastic cover. Figure 34. Rear bearing housing screws 3. Screw one of the fastening screws into the threaded hole under the blanking plate (figure 35). Figure 35. Detaching the rear bearing housing from the stator 4. Tighten the screw carefully until the bearing housing comes loose. 5. Pull the bearing housing off the stator Repairing the rear-end bearings KM/288/EN/

26 Main shaft and bearing Repair operations on the rear bearings are limited to replacing worn parts. The wearing parts include the bearing, seals, and shaft sleeves, replaced as necessary. The wearing speed varies according to the load on the jet. CAUTION! If the seals are worn, they may allow water to flow into the bearing housing, in turn weakening the lubrication of the bearing and shortening its operating life. Please note that the greatest permissible radial clearance in the rear bearings is 0.1 mm. Seals NOTE! A removed sealing must always be replaced with a new one, never reinstalled. Changing the seals: 1. Remove the seals with a screwdriver, for example (figure 36). In newer models, the second seal is attached to the plastic cover. Figure 36. Removing the rear bearing seals 2. Replace the old seals with new ones. Bearing Replacing the bearing: 1. Remove the retainer ring that holds the needle bearing in its place from the back of the bearing housing (figure 37). 22 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

27 Main shaft and bearing Figure 37. Retainer ring 2. Push the bearing out of the housing from the front side. There are holes on the housing race (figure 38) to allow pushing the bearing with a mandrel, for example. Figure 38. Recess allows for the easy removal of the bearing Assembly of the rear-end bearing Assembly of the rear bearing: 1. Push the bearing into the bearing housing from the back (figure 39). Use a bearing retaining compound to ensure that the bearing stays in its place. KM/288/EN/

28 Main shaft and bearing Figure 39. Assembly of the rear bearing 2. Push the locking ring into its groove in the bearing housing (figure 39, point A). 3. Push the seals (2 in total) into their places from the front of the bearing housing. In newer models, the second seal is attached to the plastic cover.ensure that the seals are inserted in the correct way (figures 40 and 41 ). Figure 40. Installation direction of the seals 24 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

29 Main shaft and bearing Figure 41. Installation direction of the seals in newer models Installing the rear-end bearing Before installation, ensure that the bearing housing hole in the stator is clean and intact. Installing the rear-end bearing: 1. Spread adhesive sealing compound around the bearing housing on the area indicated in figure 42. Figure 42. Spreading area of the adhesive compound 2. Push the bearing housing into the hole on the stator (figure 43, point A). KM/288/EN/

30 Main shaft and bearing Figure 43. Installing the blanking plate 3. Set the seal blanking plate (figure 43, point B) so that the holes are in line with the holes on the bearing housing. Tighten the fastening screws (3 in total, figure 43, point C). Newer models do not have a blanking plate. Instead, the screws are used to attach the plastic cover and the seals are left between the cover and the housing. The tightening torque of the screws is 10 Nm. 4. Remove excess adhesive compound from the hole (figure 43, point D). 5. Spread sealing and adhesive compound onto the thread of the grease cup (figure 44, point A), and screw the grease cup into its place (figure 44, point B). Newer models do not have a separate grease cup. Figure 44. Attaching the grease cup 6. Install the sleeves at the end of the shaft onto the shaft together with the o-rings. The correct installation sequence is illustrated in figure KM/288/EN/1.2.0

31 Main shaft and bearing Use thread locking compound on the fastening screw in order to prevent any unintentional loosening of the screw. Figure 45. Installation sequence of the sleeves 7. Install the stator (section 6.3. Installing the stator, page 66) Intermediate shaft The intermediate shaft is the transmission shaft between the motor and jet. Usually, the intermediate shaft has been acquired and installed by the boat manufacturer. The most common types of intermediate shaft are the constant speed shaft and the cardan shaft. In addition, various flexible shaft couplings are used. The intermediate shaft is attached to the jet's coupling flange and the flywheel or gearbox. An adapter flange can be used between the jet and the shaft. The manufacturer's instructions must always be followed in the maintenance, repair, and installation of the intermediate shaft. KM/288/EN/

32 Main shaft and bearing 28 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

33 Impeller 3. Impeller The impeller (figure 46, point A) is attached to the jet's main shaft. As the impeller rotates, it generates pressure that is then transformed into the flow rate. Figure 46. Impeller The impeller is attached to the shaft using a plastic cone (figure 46, point B), tightened between the impeller and shaft using three screws (figure 46, point C). The torque is transmitted to the shaft using a wedge (figure 46, point D). The impeller is located in the cone duct, which allows the gap between the blade and the duct wall to be quite small. The duct is made of acid-proof steel and does not need to be replaced. There are rings of various thicknesses (figure 47, point A) on the front side of the impeller. These define the location of the impeller in the duct and transmit the thrust from the impeller to the shaft. An insulating ring (figure 47, point B, and figure 52), with one part in plastic and one in steel, must always be present in front of the impeller. The ring galvanically insulates the impeller from the shaft. In some cases, the insulating ring is made completely of plastic and larger in diameter. Figure 47. Impeller rings 3.1. Impeller type The type of the impeller is defined according to the number, pitch, and surface area of the blades. The number and total pitch of the blades are unambiguous, KM/288/EN/

34 Impeller but the surface area may vary according to the diameter and length of the blades. The impeller type that is used varies according to the situation because the AJ 288 can be attached to various types of motors. Therefore, each impeller must be type-marked. The marking is stamped on the rear side of the impeller (figure 48). The type of the impeller must be declared, for example, when ordering a new impeller. Figure 48. Type marking on the rear side 3.2. Removing the impeller Before removing the impeller, remove the stator (section 6.1. Removing the stator, page 63). Removing the impeller: 1. Open the impeller fastening cone screws (3 pcs, figure 46, point C). 2. Insert one of the screws into the threaded hole (figure 49) and tighten until the cone comes loose. If the cone is stuck, insert and tighten a screw in another threaded hole. Figure 49. Removing the impeller 30 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

35 Impeller 3. Pull the impeller off of the shaft and remove the wedge from the groove Repairing the impeller Minor damages on the impeller can be repaired, such as sanding the front edge or repairing bent blades. NOTE! The impeller must be balanced after any repair operations. If the diameter of the impeller becomes too small, the impeller must be replaced. The impeller is manufactured from acid-proof steel (EN ). Sanding the front edge If necessary, a worn front edge can be sanded down. Please note that the front edge may not be too sharp or too round. A suitable rounding is approximately r = 1 mm (figure 50). Figure 50. Front edge Repairing bent blades Bends in the blades can be carefully tapped back into their original shape with a hammer Installing the impeller KM/288/EN/

36 Impeller Installing the impeller: 1. Set the fastening cone to the impeller hub and tighten the three screws (figure 51, point A) so that they are finger-tight. The mounting cone wedge groove must line up with the mark stamped on the impeller hub (figure 51, point B). Figure 51. Attaching the mounting cone 2. Push the adjuster sleeve and the insulating ring onto the shaft. The position of the insulating ring must prevent the plastic ring (figure 52, point A) from touching the hub. The type of insulating ring varies according to the shape of the impeller hub. In some impellers, it is made entirely of plastic (figure 52, point C). Figure 52. Insulating ring 3. Push the impeller onto the shaft and push it as far into the duct as it will go. A gap is left between the adjuster sleeve and impeller (figure 53, point A), which must be filled with adjuster shims. If possible, measure the gap through the inspection hatch. This allows you to insert the correct number of adjuster shims into the gap. 32 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

37 Impeller Figure 53. Location of the impeller 4. Pull the impeller off of the shaft. 5. Add shims onto the shaft until the impeller blades no longer touch the walls of the duct. Please note that the weight of the shaft and impeller will pull the complex downwards, creating a larger gap above it. 6. Adjust the impeller so that the gap between the blade and duct is 0.4 to 0.6 mm for each blade (figure 53, point C). 7. When the gap is adjusted, remove the impeller from the shaft and insert the wedge into its groove (figure 53, point B). 8. Push the impeller onto the shaft tightly against the adjuster shims and tighten the screws evenly. The tightening torque is 20 Nm. The impeller will pull slightly backwards and the adjuster shims will sit loosely in front of it. As the impeller is being loaded, it will sit against the shims. 9. Attach the stator (section 6.3. Installing the stator, page 66). 10. If you opened the inspection hatch in step 3, close it now. 11. If possible, rotate the shaft manually from the engine room to ensure that the location of the impeller is correct. KM/288/EN/

38 Impeller 34 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

39 Reversing deflector and operating hydraulics 4. Reversing deflector and operating hydraulics The purpose of the reversing deflector is to create sufficient reverse thrust for reversing the boat. When the deflector (figure 54, point A) is lowered in front of the jet flow, it will turn the jet flow entirely or partially towards the bow, creating thrust. The operating principle allows for stopping even from high speeds because the deflector can be lowered even at full speed. The reversing deflector is used through a hydraulic cylinder, controlled mechanically (figure 54, point B). A cable runs from the handle in the cabin to the operating lever of the cylinder (figure 54, point C). The hydraulic cylinder receives its power from a pump integrated in the jet (figure 54, point D), rotated from the coupling flange with a V belt. Figure 54. Reversing deflector and operating hydraulics 4.1. Reversing deflector Removing the reversing deflector Removing the reversing deflector: 1. Open the knee bolt of the connecting rod between the hydraulic cylinder and the reversing deflector (figure 55, point A). KM/288/EN/

40 Reversing deflector and operating hydraulics Figure 55. Removing the reversing deflector 2. Remove the zinc anodes from the top of the joint pegs of the deflector on both sides of the jet (figure 55, point B). 3. Open the four joint peg screws (4 pcs, figure 56). WARNING! Be careful not to drop the deflector. The deflector weighs approximately 15 kg. Figure 56. Joint peg screws 4. If you must replace the plastic bearings on the joint pegs, they can be removed with a suitable mandrel. The plastic bearings are pushed to their place and can be removed by pushing (figure 57). 36 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

41 Reversing deflector and operating hydraulics Figure 57. Removing the plastic bearings Repairing the reversing deflector The wearing parts of the reversing deflector are the plastic bearings, and zinc anodes. When the gap in the plastic bearings of the joint pegs expands too much, the bearings must be replaced. The greatest permissible radial clearance is +1 mm. The articulation bearing of the hydraulic cylinder connecting rod must also be replaced as necessary. The greatest permissible radial clearance is +1 mm. The reversing deflector is cast aluminium (AlSi7Mg), and minor breakages can be repaired by welding. The filler metal for the welding is AlMg5. If the arms show breakages, the deflector must be replaced, not repaired. NOTE! Bare aluminium areas must be painted when welding the deflector. Use paints suitable for aluminium. Check the correct paint type from the paint supplier Installing the reversing deflector Installing the reversing deflector: 1. Push the plastic bearings of the joint peg and the hydraulic cylinder connecting rod into their places. Take note particularly of the direction of the joint peg bearing flange (figure 58). KM/288/EN/

42 Reversing deflector and operating hydraulics Figure 58. Direction of the plastic bearing flange 2. Lift the reversing deflector in place and push the joint pegs in the holes. 3. Tighten the fastening screws (4 on each side) (figure 59). Figure 59. Attaching the joint pegs 4. Attach the zinc anodes on top of the joint pegs (figure 55, point B). 5. Attach the knee bolt of the hydraulic cylinder connecting rod (figure 55, point A). Please note that there must be a sleeve in the reversing deflector's hole Operating hydraulics Removing the cylinder Before you remove the cylinder, make sure you have a container for draining the oil from the hoses. Please note that it may not be necessary to completely drain the system: you can also put plugs at the ends of the hoses. 38 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

43 Reversing deflector and operating hydraulics Removing the cylinder: 1. Remove the cable from the cylinder Remove the cable angle joint (figure 60, point A) from the control lever. Figure 60. Removing the cable 1.2. Remove the saddle mounting from the cable clamp (figure 60, point B). 2. Remove the cylinder pressure hose (figure 61, point A) and return hose (figure 61, point B) from the valve and drain the oil into a container. Alternatively, you can plug the ends of the hoses. Figure 61. Removing the hoses 3. Open the knee bolt of the connecting rod between the hydraulic cylinder and the reversing deflector (figure 62, point A). KM/288/EN/

44 Reversing deflector and operating hydraulics Figure 62. Removing the cylinder 4. Remove the zinc anode from the piston rod (figure 62, point B). 5. Open the fastening nut of the hydraulic cylinder (figure 62, point C). If the jet is embedded in the hull of the boat, this stage requires a special tool that is available separately (figure 63). Figure 63. Special tool 6. Push the cylinder into the engine room from the outside (figure 64). Figure 64. Pushing the cylinder 40 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

45 Reversing deflector and operating hydraulics Repairing the cylinder Worn or damaged parts of the cylinder can be replaced. NOTE! Only a person with appropriate training is allowed to open the cylinder or carry out the maintenance and repair operations of the cylinder Installing the cylinder Installing the cylinder: 1. Make sure that the cylinder goes into place without sealing compound. 2. Make sure that the wedge is in place (figure 65, point A). The wedge ensures that the cylinder is in the right position and that the movement range remains correct. Figure 65. Cylinder wedge 3. Spread sealing compound into point B, as indicated in Figure 65 so that it seals the bushing. 4. Push the cylinder through the hole, insert the spacer (figure 66, point A) into its place, and tighten the screw (figure 66, point B). The tightening torque of the nut is 100 Nm. KM/288/EN/

46 Reversing deflector and operating hydraulics Figure 66. Cylinder spacer and nut There is a special tool available for screwing the nuts that can be used when the propulsion unit is embedded deep in the hull of the boat (figures 67 and 63). Figure 67. Propulsion unit embedded deep in the hull of the boat 5. Make sure that no sealing compound is on the piston rod. If there is sealing compound on the rod, it must be wiped off. 6. Install the reversing deflector (section Installing the reversing deflector, page 37). 7. Install the rod between the cylinder and the deflector (figure 68, point A). 42 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

47 Reversing deflector and operating hydraulics Figure 68. The rod between the hydraulic cylinder and the reversing deflector 8. Install the zinc anode to the piston rod. Ensure that the zinc anode (figure 68, point B) does not prevent the deflector from moving all the way up Cylinder adjustment When you start the engine for the first time, make sure that you have oil available to add to the reversing deflector control hydraulic system. Fill the reservoir with oil before you start the engine. After you start the engine and put it into forward gear, the oil is transferred from the reservoir into the system and the pump automatically removes air from the system. If the oil level decreases in the reservoir, add some oil to the reservoir through the cap. There is a dipstick in the reservoir that you can use to check the oil level (figure 69). Every now and then, move the hydraulic cylinder's operating lever back and forth (figure 70, point A) so that the cylinder fills with oil. KM/288/EN/

48 Reversing deflector and operating hydraulics Figure 69. Checking the oil level A B C Maximum level Minimum level Cap Figure 70. Operating lever Adjusting the cylinder: 1. Detach the control cable from the end of the cylinder operating lever (figure 71, point A). 44 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

49 Reversing deflector and operating hydraulics Figure 71. Removing the control cable 2. Loosen the operating lever screw (figure 71, point B) but do not pull the lever off the shaft yet. 3. Place the lever against the limiter on the shaft (figure 72, point A). Figure 72. Operating shaft and limiter 4. Turn on the engine and put it into gear. 5. Using a wrench, turn the operating shaft (figure 72, point B) 13 mm (0.4") clockwise so that the reversing deflector is down, blocking the jet flow. If you turn the shaft too much, it will no longer move smoothly, indicating that the cylinder has reached the end of its movement range. If this happens, turn the shaft back slightly. 6. Attach the operating lever to the shaft with a screw, and tighten the screw. The tightening torque is 10 Nm. Do not tighten the screw too much! KM/288/EN/

50 Reversing deflector and operating hydraulics 7. Attach the control cable to the screw at the end of the operating lever (figure 71, point A). 8. Use the control system in the cabin to check that the deflector can move to the up and down positions. In the up position, the deflector does not block the jet flow (figure 73). In the down position, the top of the reversing deflector nearly touches the steering nozzle (figure 74). Figure 73. Deflector in the up position Figure 74. Deflector in the down position 4.3. Hydraulic pump Removing the hydraulic pump Before you remove the hydraulic pump, ensure that you have a container for draining the oil from the hoses. Please note that it may not be necessary to completely drain the system: you can also put plugs at the ends of the hoses. 46 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

51 Reversing deflector and operating hydraulics Removing the hydraulic pump: 1. Remove the hydraulic pump pressure hose (figure 75, point A) and suction hose (figure 75, point B) and drain the oil into a container. Alternatively, you can plug the ends of the hoses. Figure 75. Hoses of the hydraulic pump 2. Remove the hydraulic pump rack by opening its fastening screws. The rack is attached to the front surface of the bearing housing with fou screws, two on each side of the pump (figure 76). Figure 76. Hydraulic pump rack fastening screws 3. Remove the hydraulic pump from the rack by opening its three fastening screws (figure 77). KM/288/EN/

52 Reversing deflector and operating hydraulics Figure 77. Hydraulic pump fastening screws Repairing the hydraulic pump A worn belt pulley in the hydraulic pump can be replaced. It can also be replaced with the pump attached to the rack. The pump's pressure relief valve may get clogged up with debris, which may cause the pump to malfunction. The pressure relief valve can be checked and cleaned even when the pump is attached to its rack. Replacing the belt pulley: 1. Loosen the fastening screws of the hydraulic pump rack (figure 76). 2. Open the three screws that attach the belt pulley to the rack (3 pcs, figure 78). Figure 78. Belt pulley fastening screws 3. Remove the old belt pulley. 4. Fit in the new belt pulley. 48 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

53 Reversing deflector and operating hydraulics 5. Tighten the screws. The tightening torque is 25 Nm. Use thread locking compound. Pressure relief valve disassembly Reserve a container for this procedure into which you can drain the oil from the partially dissembled system. 1. Open the cylinder-side end of the pressure hose and disconnect the pressure hose from the pump. If the pump-side end of the hose is equipped with a banjo connection, the cylinder-side connector does not need to be detached. 2. Open the adapter nut (figure 79) Figure 79. Hydraulic pump pressure relief valve 3. Lift out the pressure relief valve (figure 80) and clean it of any debris and impurities. Figure 80. The hydraulic pump and the pressure relief valve 4. Set the cleaned pressure relief valve back in the pump. 5. Tighten the adapter nut. The tightening torque is 40 Nm. KM/288/EN/

54 Reversing deflector and operating hydraulics Installing the hydraulic pump Installing the hydraulic pump: 1. Mount the hydraulic pump in the rack using fastening screws (figure 77). The tightening torque is 25 Nm. Use thread locking compound. 2. Set the rack against the front surface of the bearing housing and tighten the fastening screws (figure 76) loosely. Use thread locking compound. 3. Set the belt in its place and lift the rack until the belt tightens. 4. Tighten the rack fastening screws at the same time. The tightening torque is 50 Nm. 5. Install the pressure hose (figure 75, point A) and return hose (figure 75, point B). 6. Fill the oil reservoir with oil and use the system (motor running, in forward gear), moving the reversing deflector up and down several times. This removes air from the system Replacing the oil filter The oil filter in the oil reservoir must be replaced after every 500 operating hours. Replacing the oil filter: 1. Open the six cover screws (figure 81) Figure 81. Oil reservoir cover screws 50 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

55 Reversing deflector and operating hydraulics The filter is located under the cover and has a spring on top of it that keeps the filter in place (figure 82). Figure 82. Oil filter spring 2. Remove and replace the spring and the filter. It is not necessary to replace the spring unless it is damaged. 3. Put the cover back into place. Make sure that the cover seal is correctly positioned in the groove (figure 83, point A). The cover must also be positioned correctly so that the spring is in line with its support (figure 83, point B). Figure 83. Oil reservoir cover 4. Reattach the six cover screws (figure 81). KM/288/EN/

56 Reversing deflector and operating hydraulics 52 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

57 Steering nozzle and operating shaft 5. Steering nozzle and operating shaft The steering nozzle (figure 84, point A) is used to turn the direction of the water from the jet, causing the boat to turn. The steering nozzle is used with the levers (figure 84, points B and C) and shaft (figure 84, point D). Figure 84. Steering nozzle and operating shaft 5.1. Steering nozzle Removing the steering nozzle The steering nozzle can be removed when the boat is in water, but it is easier if the boat is out of the water. Removing the steering nozzle: 1. Lift and lock the reversing deflector in the upper position by tying the deflector to the hull of the boat using rope, for example. Please note that when the hydraulic system is turned off, it may not sustain the deflector in the upper position. If you want more space for working, you can open the knee bolt of the connecting rod between the hydraulic cylinder and the reversing deflector (figure 55, point A). This will lift the reversing deflector all the way up (figure 85). The unintentional lowering of the deflector must always be prevented by tying it to the hull of the boat. DANGER! Always lock the reversing deflector in the upright position while working. A reversing deflector that is not locked may crash downwards with force and strike the repair person. KM/288/EN/

58 Steering nozzle and operating shaft Figure 85. Reversing deflector in the upright position 2. Open the steering nozzle angle joint from the steering shaft (figure 86, point A). Figure 86. Removing the steering nozzle 1 3. Open the steering nozzle joint screws (figure 86, point B, and 87). Figure 87. Removing the steering nozzle 2 54 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

59 Steering nozzle and operating shaft Repairing the steering nozzle A worn or damaged angle joint on the steering nozzle can be replaced. Always replace the entire joint, not just the damaged end. Please note that the length of the angle joint affects the movement of the steering nozzle. The plastic bearings of the steering nozzle are also replaceable. The steering nozzle is cast aluminium (AlSi7Mg), and minor breakages can be repaired by welding. The filler metal for the welding is AlMg5. If the swinging arm or shaft holes show breakages, the steering nozzle must be replaced, not repaired. NOTE! Bare aluminium areas must be painted when welding the steering nozzle. Use paints suitable for aluminium. Check the correct paint type from the paint supplier. Replacing the angle joint: 1. Remove the fastening screw from the nozzle (figure 88). Figure 88. Replacing the angle joint 2. Install the new angle joint and tighten the screw. The tightening torque is 80 Nm. Use thread locking compound. Changing the plastic bearings: 1. Remove the old plastic bearings by pushing them from their holes (figure 89). Use a suitable mandrel, for example. KM/288/EN/

60 Steering nozzle and operating shaft Figure 89. Plastic bearings 2. Install the new bearings by pushing them into their holes. Use a sealing and adhesive compound (such as Sikaflex 221) Installing the steering nozzle Installing the steering nozzle: 1. Attach the steering nozzle joint screws (figures 86 and 87). Ensure that the joint screw steel sleeves are in their correct places (figure 90). Figure 90. Nozzle joint sleeves 56 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

61 Steering nozzle and operating shaft 2. Tighten the joint screws. The tightening torque is 50 Nm. Use thread locking compound. 3. Attach and tighten the steering nozzle angle joint (figure 86). The tightening torque is 80 Nm. Use thread locking compound. 4. Lower the reversing deflector. 5. Attach the knee bolt of the connecting rod between the hydraulic cylinder and the reversing deflector (figure 55, point A) Steering shaft Removing the steering shaft Removing the steering shaft: 1. Open the screw in the steering nozzle angle joint (figure 86, point A). 2. Remove the steering device from the front end lever (figure 91, point A). The type of steering device varies according to the boat manufacturer. The mounting point of the steering device on the lever depends on the type of the steering device (stroke length). Use a marker pen, for example, to mark the position of the control lever in relation to the shaft. Figure 91. Removing the steering device 3. Loosen the screws of the lever adapter sleeve (6 in total, Figure 91, point B). 4. Remove at least two screws and insert them into the threaded holes (figure 92). KM/288/EN/

62 Steering nozzle and operating shaft Figure 92. Threaded holes 5. Tighten the screws until the cone sleeve opens. 6. Remove the steering shaft locking ring (figure 93). Figure 93. Steering shaft locking ring 7. Pull the steering shaft backwards from its place (figure 94). Figure 94. Removing the steering shaft Repairing the steering shaft Replaceable parts in the steering shaft include worn bushing sleeves and bearings (figure 95) and bushing sleeve seals in the front end. 58 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

63 Steering nozzle and operating shaft Figure 95. Bushing sleeves and bearings Replacing the bushing sleeve: 1. Open the fastening screws (3 in total, Figure 96) and push the sleeve out from the engine room. Figure 96. Bushing sleeve fastening screws 2. Install the new bushing sleeve and its seals. 3. Tighten the fastening screws. The tightening torque is 10 Nm. Replacing the front bushing sleeve seals: 1. Remove the seals with a screwdriver, for example (figure 97). KM/288/EN/

64 Steering nozzle and operating shaft Figure 97. Removing the seals 2. Install the new seals by pushing them into their proper place by using a suitable mandrel. Ensure that the seals are inserted the correct way (figure 98). Figure 98. Correctly installed seal 3. Replace the o-ring at the front of the sleeve (figure 99). Figure 99. Sleeve o-ring 60 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

65 Steering nozzle and operating shaft Replacing the bushing bearing: 1. Remove the old rear bushing bearing by pushing it from the hole with a suitable mandrel (figure 100). Figure 100. Removing the bushing bearing 2. Install the new bearing. Use sealing and adhesive compound Installing the steering shaft Installing the steering shaft: 1. Push the steering shaft through the holes from the outside (figure 101). Figure 101. Installing the steering shaft 2. Push the locking ring to the shaft and push it against the front bushing (figure 102). KM/288/EN/

66 Steering nozzle and operating shaft Figure 102. Attaching the locking ring 3. Check the position of the sleeve. There are markings on the shaft and sleeve to simplify the defining of the position (figure 102). 4. Tighten the locking ring in place with a screw. The tightening torque is 10 Nm. 5. Push the steering level on the shaft along with the cone sleeve. Ensure that the lever is in the same position that it was before it was removed (section Removing the steering shaft, page 57). 6. Put some threadlocker on to the cone sleeve screws (6 pcs) and make them finger-tight. This way the lever can slide on the shaft and you can find the correct position for it. 7. Once you have found the correct position for the lever, tighten the lever on to the shaft with the cone sleeve. Tighten the cone sleeve screws evenly by tightening each screw in turn by several revolutions of the tightening ring while making sure that each screw is tightening the cone sleeve evenly. Do not over-tighten the cone sleeve or the cone will stretch the outer ring of the lever. An excessively tightened cone will collapse and lose its grip. 8. Attach the operating device. Please be sure to attach it in the same hole from which it was removed. 62 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

67 Stator 6. Stator 6.1. Removing the stator The stator and steering nozzle can be removed at the same time. If necessary, the steering nozzle can then be removed from the stator. Removing the stator: 1. Open the fastening screw in the steering nozzle angle joint from the end of the steering shaft (figure 86, point A). 2. Lift the reversing deflector in the upright position or all the way up (section Removing the steering nozzle, page 53). 3. Open the six fastening screws of the stator (6 pcs, figure 103). Figure 103. Stator fastening screws 4. Remove the stator from the body. Use a flathead screwdriver. Push it between the body and the stator and carefully crank the stator loose (figure 104, point A). CAUTION! Be careful. Careless use of a screwdriver may damage painted surfaces. KM/288/EN/

68 Stator Figure 104. Removing the stator 5. Open the rear connection of the lubrication hose slightly (figure 104, point B). The stator lubricating line is full of grease, and negative pressure will build up when the stator is pulled out. Opening the connection makes it easier to remove the stator. 6. Remove the steering nozzle from the stator if so required by the repair operation (figure 87) Repairing the stator Replaceable parts in the stator include: seals (figure 105, points A and B). nozzle ring (figure 106, point A). zinc anodes (4 in total). Figure 105. Stator seals 64 KM/288/EN/1.2.0

69 Stator Figure 106. Stator nozzle ring The stator is cast aluminium (AlSi7Mg), and minor breakages can be repaired by welding. The filler metal for the welding is AlMg5. Typically the tips of the blades suffer most damages in the stator (figure 107). These kinds of damage can be prevented by repair painting any minor damage. If the steering nozzle pivots show breakages, the part must be replaced, not repaired. NOTE! Bare aluminium areas must be painted when welding the stator. Use paints suitable for aluminium. Check the correct paint type from the paint supplier. Figure 107. Stator blades Seals Leaking seals must be replaced. Changing the seals: 1. Remove the old seal (figure 105, point A). 2. Install the new seal. KM/288/EN/

70 Use adhesive to keep the seal in place while the stator is installed. Nozzle ring The nozzle ring must be replaced if it is damaged or its seal leaks. Changing the nozzle ring: Stator 1. Open the nozzle ring fastening screws (4 in total, figure 106, point B). 2. Remove the old seal. 3. Attach the new seal in place of the old one. 4. Tighten the fastening screws. The tightening torque is 10 Nm Installing the stator Installing the stator 1. Push the stator into its place with the end of the shaft in the rear bearing housing (figure 108). The stator is centred with the dummies in the body (figure 108). One dummy is also used as a connector for the lubrication channel. Ensure that the o-rings of the connector are intact. If they are damaged, the grease intended for the rear bearing will leak out of the line. Figure 108. Installing the stator 2. Tighten the stator fastening screws evenly. The tightening torque is 50 Nm. 66 KM/288/EN/1.2.0