POWER STEERING PUMP REBUILDING SPK101 Read instructions completely before removal & disassembly

Transcription

1 POWER STEERING PUMP REBUILDING SPK101 Read instructions completely before removal & disassembly DISASSEMBLY: 1. Remove pump from car and allow to drain. 2. Remove pulley from front of pump. This requires a special puller that can be rented at most auto parts stores. Use of a regular type puller will damage and bend pulley. 3. Mount pump assembly in a vise, front side down, and clamp in place. Remove the large thin Adapter Nut(s) from the Discharge Adapter on the back of the pump. Some pumps also have a threaded stud on the back near the outer edge of the reservoir. This is used to support the back of the pump in the engine bracket. If your pump has this stud, remove the Stud Nut from it at this time. 4. Place the edge of a block of wood against the narrow lip at the edge of the Reservoir where it slips onto the Cover. Tap the block with a hammer, forcing the reservoir lip up and away from the Cover. Work your way around the pump until the reservoir lifts away from the Cover and comes off the pump. (see Picture 1). 5. Remove the bolts holding the Pump Housing to the Cover. NOTE: Some pumps have four bolts. Other pumps have three bolts and a long threaded Extension Stud. Note the location of this Extension Stud. 6. Lift and remove the Pump Housing. The Flow Valve Assembly may still be stuck inside the Pump Housing and will fall out if the housing is dropped on a flat surface. There are also two springs inside the housing that will come out. Remove the old O ring from around the Flow Valve Assembly and discard. Remove the old Housing Gasket from the Pump Housing or Cover. 7. If the Pump Housing has the Discharge Adapter located in the center, the fitting is not removable and can be left as is. If the Discharge Adapter is offset in the Pump Housing, the fitting should be removed and the Lathe Cut O ring on the fitting discarded. 8. Lift and remove the plates from the pump assembly. NOTE: Some pumps have a thin steel End Plate and a thick cast Pressure Plate. Other pumps have only a thick cast Alternate Style plate that takes the place of both (see Picture 2). Take note of which setup your pump has. 9. One of the pins that go through the pump pieces is removable and the other is fixed into the Cover. Pull out and remove the Removable Dowel. Remove the Cam Pack Assembly (see Picture 3). 10. Pull the Pump Shaft up and out of the assembly. It may be necessary to drive the shaft through the Cover and out of the assembly using a punch and hammer. Make sure you do not damage the outer edge of the shaft or the threads inside the end of the shaft while doing this. 11. Lift up and remove the Thrust Plate. 12. Clamp the Cover in the vise and pry out the old shaft seal. Remove the old Large O ring from around the outer edge of the Cover. If you are replacing the Shaft bushing, remove it at this time by driving or pressing. 13. Remove the Rotor from inside the Cam Ring and remove the eight Slippers and Slipper Springs. CLEAN ALL PARTS THOROUGHLY WITH SOLVENT OR MINERAL SPIRITS. PREPARE OR PAINT AS DESIRED. F78

2 On one side of the Flow Valve Assembly you can see the end of the valve sticking out (see Picture 4). Using a drift or small screwdriver, push this pin inward against the internal spring pressure to make sure the valve is not frozen in the valve housing. If possible, submerge the Flow Valve Assembly in solvent and push the valve in repeatedly to pump fluid through to clean inside the valve. DO NOT DISASSEMBLE THE VALVE. After washing the Cover, be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fluid passages in the casting. INSPECTION: 1. Inspect the Pump Shaft. It can be polished with Scotchbrite or fine emery cloth. If the shaft is scored in the area where the Shaft bushing or Shaft Seal rides, the shaft must be replaced. The seal must have a smooth surface to seal against to prevent wear or leakage. 2. Inspect the Cam Pack Assembly. If the outside edges of the spokes on the Rotor or the inside surface of the Cam Ring are scored, the parts must be replaced. 3. Inspect the plates. If the surfaces of the Pressure Plate or Thrust Plate are scored where the Rotor pieces rub them, the plates must be replaced. 4. Inspect the Slippers. If the outer edges of the slippers (where they ride against the inside surface of the Cam Ring) are badly worn or scored they should all be replaced as a set. 5. Inspect the Slipper Springs. The springs should have good tension on them. If the pump was making good pressure before teardown, then a reseal should be adequate. If the pump was weak and steering effort was hard, the springs should be replaced or the pump will not make sufficient pressure. 6. Inspect the Reservoir. Make sure the inner surface where the Large O ring (on the Cover) seals to the reservoir is smooth and clean. Make sure the area around the holes in the back of the reservoir (where the Discharge Adapter and threaded stud come through) are flat and burr free. ASSEMBLY OF CAM PACK: The Cam Pack is the name of the assembly consisting of the Rotor, Slippers and Slipper Springs all installed inside the Cam Ring (see Picture 3). 1. The Cam Ring usually has a marking on its outer edge to help determine the proper way to assemble the Cam Pack. Some housings have an arrow on the side that points down to indicate the bottom edge, other housings have a W shape cast into the lower edge (see Picture 5). After determining which side of the housing is the bottom, place the housing on a clean, flat surface bottom side down. 2. Fill the holes in the Rotor with grease and install the eight Slipper Springs into the holes. The grease will hold the springs in place. 3. Set the Rotor down into the Cam Ring. NOTE: The area in the Pump Rotor where the Pump Shaft goes through has a double-step on one side (see Picture 6). This side must face up. 4. Using the flat of a small screwdriver tip, compress each Slipper Spring into the Rotor and slide in the Slippers. NOTE: Each Slipper has a flat side. This side must be to your left when installing the Slippers into the Cam Pack (see Picture 3). Rotate the Rotor in the Cam Ring so that there is more room for the Slippers to go in. Lubricate the Slippers and inside of the Cam Ring.

3 PUMP ASSEMBLY: 1. Install the new Shaft Seal into the Cover by carefully pressing into place until flush with housing. Clamp the Cover in a vise, the flat side of the plate facing upwards. 2. Slide the Thrust Plate onto the Fixed Dowel and down onto the back surface of the Cover, lining up the center hole with the center hole of the Cover. Make sure the surface that sets against the Cam Pack is facing upwards. NOTE: Some Thrust Plates have a small notch on the edge of one side (see Picture 7). If your Thrust Plate is like this, install the plate with the notch located as shown in the picture. 3. Lubricate the Pump Shaft, Shaft Bushing and inner lip of the Shaft Seal with Vaseline or Lubriplate, and slide the Pump Shaft down into the Cover until flush against the Thrust Plate. 4. Lubricate both sides of the Cam Pack and slide onto the Fixed Dowel and down over the end of the Pump Shaft. NOTE: The Cam Pack must be installed in the correct position on the Cover to work properly. Make sure the bottom of the Cam Pack is against the Thrust Plate, the stepped side of the hole in the Rotor facing up (see Picture 6). The outer edge of the Cam Ring should have a notched area that is lower than the rest. This notched area should be installed onto the Cover at the 1 o clock position. The Fixed Dowel comes up through the right-hand hole in the Cam Pack as indicated in the picture. 5. Install the Loose Dowel down through the Cam Pack, Thrust Plate and into the Cover. When properly installed, the height of the Loose Dowel will be level with that of the Fixed Dowel. 6. Install the Pressure Plate and End Plate. 1 Piece Style: Slide the Alternate Style Plate over both Dowels and down onto the Cam Pack. The smaller side of the plate sets down against the Cam Pack. The notched area of the plate should line up with the notched area of the Cam Pack, or be in the 1 o clock/2 o clock position. 2-Piece Style: Slide the Pressure Plate over both Dowels and down onto the Cam Pack. Make sure the worn side is down and against the Cam Pack. The notched area of the Pressure Plate should line up with the notched area of the Cam Pack, or be in the 1 o clock/2 o clock position. Install the thin End Plate over both Dowels and down onto the Pressure Plate, making sure the notch lines up with the notch in the Pressure Plate and Cam Pack. 7. Install the Flow Valve Assembly onto the top of the stack, lining up the Dowels into the respective holes in the valve. The mouth of the larger opening on the backside of the Flow Valve Assembly should line up with the matching notches in the Top Plate(s) and Cam Pack. The stem of the valve will be in line with the Pressure Outlet hole in the Cover (see Picture 8). All the pieces will have the large slots in line (see Picture 14). 8. Install the Small O ring onto the Flow valve Assembly, sliding down until it seats against the edge on the valve. Lubricate the O ring liberally. 9. Install the two coil springs on the top of the Flow Valve Assembly by setting them in the round recesses at the top of the valve housing. 10. Set the Housing gasket onto the back of the Cover and line up the holes in the gasket with the boltholes in the faceplate. 11. If the Pump Housing has a non-removable discharge Adapter, proceed to Step 14.

4 12. If your Pump Housing has the removable Discharge Adapter, install the new Lathe Cut O Ring onto the Discharge Adapter. NOTE: the inside of the O Ring has a raised lip that fits into a corresponding groove in the Discharge Adapter. The side of the O Ring with the lip goes onto the Discharge Adapter first and the lip sits inside the groove (see Picture 9). 13. Set the Discharge Adapter into the Pump Housing as shown in Picture 10. This prevents the fitting from turning in the housing. Install the thin Adapter Nut onto the Discharge Adapter and install just tight enough to keep the fitting in place. 14. Lubricate the inside of the Pump Housing. Carefully slide the Pump Housing down onto the Flow Valve Assembly. NOTE: There is a small hole in the flange of the Pump Housing for fluid passage. This hole must be located closest to the hole in the Cover located at 9 o clock (see Pictures 7 & 11). Install Pump Housing smooth and level so as not to damage the O Ring. Look at the small oval hole in the side of the Pump Housing located about halfway up the side. You will see the Small O Ring as you press the housing downward. Using a small screwdriver, carefully press the O Ring inwards as you slide the housing down over it. This is to prevent the edge of the hole from tearing the O Ring as you slide the housing over it. Once the O Ring has successfully passed the oval hole, continue to press the Pump Housing down until it is nearly flush against the Cover. 15. Install the bolts that hold the Pump Housing to the Cover. If the holes do not quite line up, carefully turn the Pump Housing until they do. If you pump uses the Extension Stud in place of one of the regular short bolts, install it also at this time. NOTE: the Extension Stud always goes in the threaded hole so that it is located closest to the discharge Adapter coming out of the Pump Housing. Torque down all four bolts evenly to Ft/Lb. 16. Remove pump assembly from vise and shake. If you hear rattling inside the pump, one or more of the springs may have fallen out of place between the Flow Valve Assembly and pump Housing during assembly. If so pump must be dismantled and reassembled correctly. 17. Install the Large O Ring into the groove located on the outside edge of the Cover. Lubricate O Ring. 18. Remove thin Adapter Nut from the Discharge Adapter. The fitting may be slightly loose in the Pump Housing but will not fall inside the housing. 19. Install the fiber Gasket onto the Discharge Adapter against the Pump Housing. If your pump has the Extension Stud, install the Copper Washer onto it at this time. 20. Lubricate the inside inner lip area of the Reservoir liberally. 21. Install the Reservoir onto the pump assembly, lining up the Discharge Adapter and (if applicable) the Extension Stud with the holes in the back of the Reservoir. Press down on the Reservoir firmly and evenly until the canister is flush against the Discharge Adapter and Pump Housing. NOTE: Some pumps have the Discharge Adapter located in the center of the Pump Housing and no Extension Stud. Because of this, the Reservoir can be mounted to the rest of the pump anywhere in a full 360 degrees. However, the Reservoir must be clocked properly to the rest of the pump to work correctly. The Reservoir will have a small V-shaped notch cut into the lip of the canister in line with the filler pipe tube (see Picture 12). There is also a notch in the edge of the casting of the Cover (see Picture 13). The Reservoir should be mounted to the Cover so that these two notches line up.

5 NOTE: Keep watch on the Discharge Adapter as you slide the reservoir canister over it. Sometimes the fitting threads will catch the edge of the canister and deform the hole in it as it goes down. Sometimes the canister will not slide all the way on by hand. You can place a piece of wood against the back of the Reservoir and tap the canister down by hammering against the wood block. When the canister is all the way on, the Large O Ring will not be visible from the outside. 22. Install the pump ID Tag over the Discharge Adapter and install the thin Adapter Nut. Tighten nut to Ft/Lb. If your pump uses the Extension Stud, install the outside nut on it and tighten snugly to seal the Reservoir against the Copper Washer. INPUT SHAFT DRAG: Thread a 3/8 x 16 hex head bolt into the end of the rotor shaft. Using a direct-read style inch/pound torque wrench, measure the drag to turn the shaft. The torque should not exceed 15 (inch/pounds) after initial breakaway. If it does, it may be necessary to partially disassemble the pump, loosen the bolts holding down the Pump Housing, rotate the input shaft and then retighten the bolts. PRESSURE CHECKING: A) Mount the pump to the bracket on the engine. B) Connect a high-pressure hydraulic line to the Discharge Adapter on the back of the pump. After the connection for the pressure gauge, install in the line a valve that allows the flow of fluid to be opened or closed off. Run the outlet from this valve to the return hose nipple of the pump. Open the valve so fluid can flow through. C) Fill the Reservoir with FORD Type F Transmission Fluid until it shows full on the dipstick. D) Insert an Allen head tool into the end of the Pump Shaft and turn the shaft clockwise until fluid starts flowing. The level in the Reservoir will go down and will need to be replenished. Keep adding fluid and turning the pump until the level no longer drops and all the air is bled out of the system. E) Close the valve so that the fluid will not flow through. Turn the pump clockwise with your wrench and watch the needle on the gauge. NOTE: Even being turned by hand, a good pump will produce 600PSI in short bursts. If the pressure reaches PSI, the pump should work but may be weak and may not provide as much power assist as expected. If the pump shows no pressure, make sure that fluid is being pumped and is free of air bubbles. If no fluid is moving through the lines, then the Cam Pack may not be fully primed. Apply slight air pressure to the filler pipe to help move fluid through the pump internals and prime the pump. If the pump still builds no pressure, or is below 400PSI, something is wrong in the assembly of the pump or some internal part is damaged and must be replaced.