Reunited. My garage in 1998

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Reunited I started building my Speedster replica in the1990s based on a Chesil body kit. My car was planned as a Carrera recreation with as many original Porsche bits as possible. I worked out a slide lift system using scaffolding components that allowed me to roll the chassis under the body, test the fitting of body to chassis, work on the chassis and engine, and still use the other half of the garage. The donor car was a 1965 Beetle and I had a lot of help from Paul Foreman who practically built the chassis for me. Chesil fabricated a louvred aluminium boot-lid and I added a 911 fan, low profile additional oil sump, a large external oil cooler and filter and some great replica wheels. I also acquired a performance exhaust system from Germany. All very exciting. My garage in 1998 Unfortunately I was diagnosed with acute Prostate Cancer in 2000 and although I survived a major op and several months off work, my business did not and I was broke. Over the next few years I began build up my consultancy business again but realised I would not have the time or money to finish the car. I decided to sell everything as an unfinished project and the eventual purchaser was Paul Foreman who finished off the build. He later found a buyer but was kind enough to show me the finished car before it went north to its new owner in 2004. The car on my drive in 2004 before going north

I continued to run the Speedsters.com website which I had started in 1997 and created a section for the Speedsters Club as well as continuing to collect and add all the information I could find about Speedsters and their history. This continued as a hobby but I began to despair of ever actually owning and driving a Speedster, although I did own a high mileage Porsche 968 for a few years before realising I did not have the skills to maintain such a sophisticated car or the finances to cover the servicing costs at a Porsche specialist. Meanwhile, the Speedsters site continued to grow and grow and became a major source of information and was seen the ideal place to sell Speedsters because of the high traffic the site generated. Fast-forward quite a few years to August 2014 when I received an enquiry from someone based in South Wales wanting to advertise a Speedster for sale on my site. I thought I recognised some of the specs, made some further enquiries and arranged to go down to see the car. It WAS the car I started in the 1990s, had done a huge mileage, had had several owners, looked rather tired but when I drove it, I had to have it! I could not really afford it, but I managed to convince my immediate superior that it could be an investment and provide more day-to-day fun than an ISA ever could. I went down to Wales by train a week later and drove it back. One of the main problems I observed on the long drive back from Wales was the popping and banging from the exhaust on the overrun. I had guns trained on me several times as I went through Newport on the day before the NATO summit. One heavily armed Special Forces guy did come over and said Nice Car and decided not to shoot me. I found the amount of play in the steering meant that the maintaining lane discipline was quite demanding and getting used to the lack of braking efficiency was also interesting in a brown trousers sort of way. The combination of reduced visibility with the roof up (a rather opaque rear plastic window) and the fact that the mirrors drooped quite quickly in spite of adjustment, meant that I ended up doing the whole journey back with the top down. It was brilliant - a really memorable journey and when it was safely in my garage the grandchildren absolutely loved it. Back in my garage - September 2014

After I got the car home, I started to look over it in real detail. Many of my original bits were gone and the car had had two engine replacements and a new hood over the last 10 years. The car had its original heating system blanked off and a Webasto heater unit fitted by Chesil a decade ago, which the previous owner said he had never used i.e. it was not working. It also had central locking fitted which worked only on the passenger door and a heated front screen! I put the popping and banging down to possible problems with the ageing exhaust or possibly with the big Weber carbs. Once I got the car up on axle stands, I could see the main problem was the exhaust, which had some significant holes and not much holding the joints together. I did a lot of searching on the web and decided I could not afford to go stainless - the best value I found was a GT two tip exhaust still made by VW in their Mexico Factory (VWM 001 468B) at around 74 in the VW Heritage sale. Because the heat exchangers were now serving no purpose, I removed them with the old exhaust and replaced them with J-tubes. When I inspected the heat exchangers I found these were so corroded that they could have been dangerous to use anyway because of exhaust fume leaks. They were also surprisingly heavy and so this has removed some weight from the back of the car. When I eventually got all the exhaust and j-tube joints tightened up and ran the car, it was transformed with a really good sound - purring away like the Queen with only a small backfire on the overrun. So I have decided to leave the carbs alone for the time being and get them professionally balanced and tuned later. I have changed the front shocks which were in a pretty dreadful state and will be going over all the ball joints, replacing where necessary to ensure the whole front end is up-to-scratch. The rear suspension looked in good nick although I may need to replace the rear wheel bearings some time. Another problem was the vagueness in the steering with a lot of play in the straight ahead position. I looked the front wheel bearings and track rod ends and suspension linkages (these seemed absolutely fine) and then at all the joints between the steering wheel and box. I removed the coupling disc (it looked knackered anyway and was cheap to replace) and while this was off it was possible to do a fingertip check of play above and below the joint. The universal joint was fine as was the clamp holding the steering box all the play seemed to be inside the box. I followed the Haynes manual very carefully which suggested it was important to adjust the end float in the worm

shaft first and then the play between the worm and the roller (mine is a late ball-joint front end). To adjust the end float the manual says loosen the large locknut and use a hex spanner or allen key to turn the adjuster. However, like many people I don t have a 42mm socket or a 24mm o/d hex spanner in my toolbox. I managed to borrow a huge 18in adjustable spanner which coped with the locknut, but had to make an 24mm adjuster from an old bolt and some nuts. The smaller end fitted a 17mm ring spanner and made it easy to take up the slack in gentle and precise way. 42mm locknut and 24mm hex adjuster Once the play in the worm shaft had been eliminated and no tight spots could be detected, I was able to adjust the play between the worm and roller this can be done from the top of the steering box through the hole in the Chesil body. I actually made the hole larger so that I could get at the grease plugs and later fabricated a cover for this. I went over the adjustment several times to check that there were absolutely no tight spots lock-to-lock. The car is now much more pleasant to drive, this job was really worth doing. I found the VDO Speedometer on the car was not working properly, the odometer had stuck at the mileage shown on the last MOT and there was no way of resetting the trip meter a part was obviously missing. I could only find a couple of VDO repair specialists online and eventually sent the instrument to Speedy Cables in Swansea. Another problem with the car was that there was no way of measuring oil temperature as no oil temp sender had been fitted to the last replacement engine. Speedy Cables were also helpful in specifying and supplying the correct VDO temperature sender for my combined instrument. I got my Speedo back in a week with a new trip reset lead, and it all looked like new good value for 80 compared with the cost of a new instrument. I would recommend this firm to Club Members the website is www.speedycables.com and the contact is Andy Barraclough. I also decided to replace the tyres on the car as they were getting close to the limit. They were quite low profile (185/55 and 195/55) which gave an inaccurate speedo reading when checked against a borrowed SatNav. They were also running at a fairly high pressure giving a firm, rather nervous ride. I fitted taller 185/65 and 195/65 tyres and used Beetle like (nitrogen) pressures of 17 and 24psi which definitely makes the ride more compliant, and the speedo reading now seems spot-on, according to the SatNav. There are lots of other things I want to do to the car, including getting the petrol heater working. I ve checked the wiring as best I can, the fan works and I think I can hear the petrol pump working but no heat. If any members have experience of

installing or maintaining these Webasto units, I would be grateful if they would get in touch as just a bit of advice might help point me in the right direction. I m also thinking of doing a front disc brake conversion although this seems a bit expensive at the moment. With some help from a friend who knows much more about Beetle running gear than me, I have overhauled and adjusted the drum brakes and these now work much better than when I drove the car back from Wales. My wipers are definitely on the wrong side I also want to sort out the wiper motor assembly as I am convinced this has either been wrongly installed or came from a left hand drive beetle. The problem is that the passenger gets good visibility, while the screen in front of the driver is only half wiped, which adds to the visibility problems in the rain. Some of the forums tell me I can reverse the whole assembly and fabricate a new mounting with different spacing, but I am wary of starting this without some advice from someone who has done it it may be simpler just to buy a RHD unit from a Beetle scrapyard or even a new one any advice would be appreciated. I m sure it should look like this on a lovely Speedster I saw at Sywell in September. In terms of originality, I rather regret going for wind-up windows back in 1996 and plan eventually to go for side-screens. If anyone wants to go the other way for day-today convenience we might be able to do a swap. I ve got quite a list of things to do,

but I am going to concentrate on the mechanical and driveability issues first and then look at the originality and cosmetic items later as and when I can afford it. In whatever state the car is in when the better weather comes I hope to get to as many events as possible during 2015 and hope to meet some old friends as well a new Speedster enthusiasts. I m definitely going to the Donington Historic Festival in early May this is still one of the best classic car club weekends I have been to but as well as Goodwood and the Le Mans Classic, both of which are getting a bit expensive I would strongly recommend the Kop Hill Climb and Pistons & Props at Sywell in September, which had huge turnouts of sporting classics last year. I wanted to try the Spa Classic this year, but I may have to wait until 2017. I m still based in Maidstone, Kent. Contact me on john@speedstersandspyders.org.uk or johnm@speedsters.com Looking forward to some brilliant weekends with matching weather in 2015!