1 of 16 1/10/2015 7:25 AM STARTER MOTOR 2009 Hyundai Accent 1.6L Eng GS REQUESTED INFORMATION DISASSEMBLY 1. Disconnect the M-terminal (A) on the magnet switch assembly (B). Fig 1: Identifying M-Terminal & Magnet Switch Assembly 2. After loosening the 2 screws (A), detach the magnet switch assembly (B). Fig 2: Identifying Screws & Magnet Switch Assembly 3. Loosen the brush holder mounting screw (A) and through bolts (B).

2 of 16 1/10/2015 7:25 AM Fig 3: Identifying Brush Holder Mounting Screw & Through Bolts 4. Remove the rear bracket (A) and brush holder assembly (B). Fig 4: Identifying Rear Bracket & Brush Holder Assembly 5. Remove the yoke (A) and armature (B).

3 of 16 1/10/2015 7:25 AM Fig 5: Identifying Yoke & Armature 6. Remove the, lever plate (A) and packing (B). Fig 6: Identifying Lever Plate & Packing 7. Remove the overrunning clutch (A) and lever (B).

4 of 16 1/10/2015 7:25 AM Fig 7: Identifying Overrunning Clutch & Lever 8. Press the stop ring (A) using a socket (B). Fig 8: Identifying Stop Ring & Socket 9. After removing the stopper (A) using stopper pliers (B).

5 of 16 1/10/2015 7:25 AM Fig 9: Identifying Stopper & Stopper Pliers 10. Remove the stopper (A), stop ring (B), overrunning clutch (C) and armature (D). Fig 10: Identifying Stopper, Stop Ring, Overrunning Clutch & Armature 11. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. NOTE: Using a suitable pulling tool (A), pull the overrunning clutch stop ring (B) over the stopper (C).

6 of 16 1/10/2015 7:25 AM Fig 11: Identifying Overrunning Clutch Stop Ring & Stopper REPLACEMENT 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable. 2. Remove the air cleaner assembly (Refer to REMOVAL ). Fig 12: Identifying Intake Air Hose & Air Cleaner Upper Cover

7 of 16 1/10/2015 7:25 AM Fig 13: Identifying Air Cleaner Element & Air Cleaner Lower Cover 3. Remove the shift cable and bracket. (M/T) Fig 14: Identifying Shift Cable & Bracket 4. Disconnect the starter cable (A) from the B terminal (B) on the solenoid (C), then disconnect the connector (D) from the S terminal (E).

8 of 16 1/10/2015 7:25 AM Fig 15: Identifying Starter Cable, B Terminal, Solenoid & Connector 5. Remove the 2 bolts holding the starter, then remove the starter. 6. Installation is the reverse of removal. 7. Connect the battery negative cable to the battery. INSPECTION ARMATURE INSPECTION AND TEST 1. Remove the starter. 2. Disassemble the starter as shown at the beginning of this procedure. 3. Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature. Fig 16: Identifying Armature 4. Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface with emery cloth or a lathe within the following specifications, or recondition with #500 or #600 sandpaper (B).

9 of 16 1/10/2015 7:25 AM Fig 17: Identifying Commutator & Sandpaper 5. Check the commutator diameter. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator diameter Standard (New): 29.3 ~ 29.4 mm (1.1535 ~ 1.1575 in) Fig 18: Measuring Commutator Diameter 6. Measure the commutator (A) runout. 1. If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments. 2. If the commutator run out is not within the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator runout Standard (New): 0.02mm (0.0008in.) max Service limit: 0.05mm (0.0020in.)

10 of 16 1/10/2015 7:25 AM Fig 19: Measuring Commutator Runout 7. Check the mica depth (A). If the mica is too high (B), undercut the mica with a hacksaw blade to the proper depth. Cut away all the mica (C) between the commutator segments. The undercut should not be too shallow, too narrow, or v-shaped (D). Commutator mica depth Standard (New): 0.4 ~ 1.0 mm (0.0157 ~ 0.0394 in.) Limit: 0.2mm (0.0079 in.) Fig 20: Checking Mica Depth 8. Check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If an open circuit exists between any segments, replace the armature.

11 of 16 1/10/2015 7:25 AM Fig 21: Checking Continuity Between Segments Of Commutator 9. Check with an ohmmeter that no continuity exists between the commutator (A) and armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and armature shaft (C). If continuity exists, replace the armature. Fig 22: Checking Continuity Exists Between Commutator & Armature Coil Core INSPECT STARTER BRUSH Brushes that are worm out, or oil-soaked, should be replaced.

12 of 16 1/10/2015 7:25 AM Fig 23: Identifying Brush Limit Line NOTE: To seat new brushes, slip a strip of #500 or #600 sand-paper, with the grit side up, between the commutator and each brush, and smoothly rotate the armature. The contact surface of the brushes will be sanded to the same contour as the commutator. STARTER BRUSH HOLDER TEST 1. Check that there is no continuity between the (+) brush holder (A) and (-) brush holder (B). If there is no continuity, replace the brush holder assembly. Fig 24: Checking Starter Brush Holder NOTE: Use a pipe (C) of suitable size for the brushes not to get removed from the brush holder.

13 of 16 1/10/2015 7:25 AM INSPECT OVERRUNNING CLUTCH 1. Slide the overrunning clutch along the shaft. Replace it if does not slide smoothly. 2. Rotate the overrunning clutch both ways. Does it lock in one direction and rotate smoothly in reverse? If it does not lock in either direction of it locks in both directions, replace it. Fig 25: Inspecting Overrunning Clutch 3. CLEANING If the starter drive gear is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly. (the gear is not available separately). Check the condition of the flywheel or torque converter ring gear if the starter drive gear teeth are damaged. 1. Do not immerse parts in cleaning solvent. Immersing the yoke assembly and/or armature will damage the insulation. Wipe these parts with a cloth only. 2. Do not immerse the drive unit in cleaning solvent. The overrun clutch is pre-lubricated at the factory and solvent will wash lubrication from the clutch. 3. The drive unit may be cleaned with a brush moistened with cleaning solvent and wiped dry with a cloth. STARTER CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING NOTE: The battery must be in good condition and fully charged. 1. Remove the fuel pump relay from the fuse box.

14 of 16 1/10/2015 7:25 AM Fig 26: Identifying Fuel Pump Relay 2. 3. 4. With the shift lever in N or P (A/T) or clutch pedal pressed (M/T), turn the ignition switch to "START" If the starter normally cranks the engine, starting system is OK. If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to next step. If it won't disengage from the ring gear when you release key, check for the following until you find the cause. 1. Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction. 2. Dirty pinion gear or damaged overrunning clutch. Check the battery condition. Check electrical connections at the battery, battery negative cable connected to the body, engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try starting the engine again. If the starter cranks normally the engine, repairing the loose connection repaired the problem. The starting system is now OK. If the starter still does not crank the engine, go to next step. Disconnect the connector from the S-terminal of solenoid. Connect a jumper wire from the B-terminal of solenoid to the S-terminal of solenoid. If the starter cranks the engine, go to next step. If the starter still does not crank the engine, remove the starter, and repair or replace as necessary. 5. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit. 1. Check the wire and connectors between the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch, and between the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter. 2. Check the ignition switch (Refer to GENERAL (BODY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM) ).

15 of 16 1/10/2015 7:25 AM 3. Check the transaxle range switch connector or ignition lock switch connector. 4. Inspect the starter relay. STATER SOLENOID TEST 1. Disconnect the field coil wire from the M-terminal of solenoid switch. 2. Connect a 12V battery between S-terminal and the starter body. Fig 27: Connecting Battery Between S-Terminal & Starter Body 3. Connect the field coil wire to the M-terminal. CAUTION: This test must be performed quickly (in less than 10 seconds) to prevent the coil from burning. 4. If the pinion moves out, the pull-in coil of solenoid is working properly. If the pinion does not move, replace the solenoid. 5. Disconnect the field coil wire from the M-terminal. 6. If the pinion has moved out, the hold-in coil of the solenoid is working properly. If the pinion moves in, replace the solenoid. FREE RUNNING TEST 1. Place the starter motor in a vise equipped with soft jaws and connect a fully-charged 12-volt battery to starter motor as follows. 2. Connect a test ammeter (100-ampere scale) and carbon pile rheostats shown is the illustration. 3. Connect a voltmeter (15-volt scale) across starter motor.

16 of 16 1/10/2015 7:25 AM Fig 28: Connecting Voltmeter Across Starter Motor 4. Rotate carbon pile to the off position. 5. Connect the battery cable from battery' s negative post to the starter motor body. 6. Adjust until battery voltage shown on the voltmeter reads 11 volts. 7. Confirm that the maximum amperage is within the specifications and that the starter motor turns smoothly and freely. Current: 35A max Speed: 4350 rpm