E31 HID Install for Euro Lights By: Faisal Ahmed Parts Needed: H1 HID kit High Temp 9006 Light Socket set (Available at Auto Parts Store Thanks Laszlo) Spade Connectors set (Available at Auto parts store) Electrical Tape. Velcro or Double sided tape Tools Needed: Phillips Screwdriver. Long Flat Screwdriver. Wire Stripper. Wire Coat Hanger. Thin Scissors 9006 Light Socket Set Spade Connector set 2 Light Socket and Spade connectors 2 Male & 2 Female Spade connectors
Why Digital? 5000K ProLumen Full Digital H1 HID Kit from www.bavtoys.com The digital (electronic) ballast is the latest in ballast innovation. Digital ballasts are more efficient, quieter, cooler, and softer/easier on the bulb all the while allowing for a much smaller and neater package. Digital ballasts do not have any of the usual transformers or capacitors; instead these ballasts have electronic circuitry doing the same job, only much more efficiently using significantly less current. They have the capability of self diagnostic and reset, including specific protection circuits to detect various lamp- and ballast-fault conditions allowing to safely shutdown or reset the ballast. when the ballast fires the bulb it sends full power to the cold bulb, Over time, this shortens the bulb life and reduces the output and life span of the bulb, Digital ballasts start by sending a low amount of power to the bulb and steadily increases the power over the next few seconds until the bulb has reached full brightness, This is also known as soft starting, which minimizes the damage to the bulb and increases its life. After one year of use the usable light coming from bulbs that are run on digital ballasts has decreased significantly less where as the same bulb being used in the coil type ballast would have lost over 10% more usable light over the same period of time. Why this kit? Well!! There are plenty of cheap kits out there. Primarily I wanted something that I can mount in a stealthy fashion. Just look at the ballast compared to the connectors. It is tiny, but made solid with a steel case. Second, I wanted something that is the cutting edge technology. And Third, I got it at a good price jumping in a Group buy (Standard retail $275.00 Shipped).
Instructions: This install becomes very easy if the light pods are taken out. Since I do not have the stock Airbox and had plenty of room, I did not want to take out the light pods. Turn the lights on and off 6 times. The 6 th time the pods will stay up. Take out the key from ignition. Take off the Screw of the headlight cover Remove Cover
Remove the lid for the Low beam and Fog lamp area The Low beam is the outside one
Take off the 2 connectors (One from the bulb and one from the socket base) Pull the wire loom up to expose the sheath
With the thin scissors slice the sheath open and take out the 2 wires. Then wrap the sheath back over the other wires and secure with some electrical tape. Cut off the end connectors (I saved them for future reversibility) Connect the 9006 socket to the ballast. Note the + and ends. It is very important to have the polarity correct in HID installs. Attach the 2 female spade connectors to the 9006 Socket ends.
There is a big rubber grommet at the bottom of the housing for the wires to pass through. Cut a slit from the edge to the center of the grommet. With a flat screwdriver pull out one side to create an opening to pass wires through. Push the 2 wires through the opening and they will come out of the bottom
Connect the 2 male spade connectors to those wires and crimp them tight. For extra precaution and waterproofing, wrap the connection ends with electrical tape Using the same opening push in the igniter connection from the bottom. Pull them to the center with the other wires. Now push the grommet back in place
Now replace the regular bulb with the HID bulb and connect it to the igniter. Now push in the rubber grommet as close to the connector as possible
Push in the grommet in to the housing so that it becomes a separator between the leveler motor and the connectors Run all the wires through the hole of the metal frame of the headlight pods (Just follow the original wire path). Connect the Spade connectors
Now the ballast is connected to the power source. Connect the igniter to the ballast. This is the time to test the lights. Turn on the lights. If they do not turn on check the polarity again.
Once everything is connected, it is time to hide the ballast. I used a set of Velcro strips. The Velcro has 2 purposes: Vibration dampening and easy take off of the ballast. Since the ballast is so small, it can be hidden under the light pod support bar. I picked a different spot = behind the fender. Do you see the ballast? I have used Zip ties to secure the new wiring to the old wiring harness. Once the zip tie ends are cutoff the install is stealth.
Once the cover is on there is no way to tell if this car came with HID or aftermarket. Now do the other side the same way with opposite orientation. After the install is complete, make sure to check the headlight aim and adjustment. I keep the leveler motor to position 0 after proper aiming to have the extra margin for the oncoming traffic. I won t boar you with light pictures. Mine are 5000K and is crystal white rather than the blue 6000K or purplish 7500K+. Once again, for people with stock air box, I highly recommend that you take the light pods out. It will make your install much faster and stress free.