Installation Instructions for Model 100L and for Model 100T Hand Pump (Prerequisite for 12v gear motor option - also see separate instructions) Contents Introduction Assembly Parts List Section 1: Do It Your Self or Call a Pump Professional? Section 2: Inspecting Your Existing System. Section 3: Replacing The Existing Well Cover. Section 4: Pump Cylinder, Drop Pipe Installation. Section 5: Pump Head Installation. Section 6: Pumping Water, Finishing Touches. Introduction Thank you for purchasing your pump assembly. We are extremely proud of these high quality components. We have installed the pumps in a variety of well types and sizes and our instructions are a result of experiences in those installations. Please carefully read through these instructions. Your time will be well spent. At any time, if you think you are overwhelmed, please get the help of a qualified, professional pump installer.
We will be referring to parts by their part number and name. Use the Assembly Parts List to identify parts as you read through these instructions. View the Assembly Parts List. Section 1: Do It Yourself or Call a Pump Professional? Before considering whether to perform this installation yourself, you need to first determine what type of cover is on your existing well case. Replacing your existing well cover with the cover provided with your new pump is necessary to support the hand pump head. Covers are made in a wide variety of shapes and form. We break them down into two categories for determining who will perform the installation: PRESSURE PIPE THROUGH THE COVER If your cover has pressure piping that passes through it and continues to your house system, a pump installer can easily do the task of replacing the cover. This type of cover generally supports the entire string of pipe extending down to the electric pump. This string of pipe can weigh hundreds of pounds. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THIS TYPE OF COVER UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING! Your pump installer has equipment to lift the string and the cover. Your installer can lift the string a short distance, and using a special clamp, can replace the old cover with the new cover and set it back onto the case. NO PRESSURE PIPE THROUGH THE COVER If your cover does not have pressure piping passing through it, you probably can perform the installation yourself if you are comfortable with simple plumbing tasks. You will also need to
disconnect your existing well pump wiring under the cover and reconnect it through the new cover. This may require installing electrical flexible conduit, connecting electrical fittings and reconnecting the pump wiring. It is important that you can safely eliminate the possibility of power being applied to these lines while you are working on them. These are usually 240 volts. ELECTRICITY CAN KILL! DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PERFORM ELECTRICAL ALTERATIONS UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. If you have the skills described, the installation is really quite simple. Most of the work is in changing over the well cover. Setting the pump requires approximately three to five minutes per nine foot section. Section 2: Inspecting Your Existing System. In this section you will remove your existing cover and inspect your well for any obstacles that might obstruct the installation of your new hand pump. a) Make certain that your electric well power source has been shut off and locked off. You will probably be a considerable distance from the power shutoff and the possibility of the power inadvertently being turned on must be eliminated. b) Remove your existing cover. There are so many styles; you will have to figure this one out on your own. c) Untangle any wiring under the cover and pull the wires from the pump tight, with the excess out of the case. d) Using a mirror reflecting the sun (don't laugh it's the best way), shine down the casing. If you have a straight well, you can see the water reflecting as deep as 200 feet. About 4 feet below the ground level you will see the special fitting (called a "pitless adapter") which takes your pressure piping to your house. The piping to the hand pump will pass right beside this fitting. On some installations, "torque arrrestors" are installed to keep the pipe and wiring at the center. Certain versions of these might prevent the hand pump piping from passing to the water level, in which case a pump installer can remove the unneeded ones. Torque arrestors are only necessary at the electric pump. The Simple pump will be installed 20 to 100 feet above the electric pump. Now that you have determined that you have a relatively unobstructed path to the water, you can proceed. Section 3: Replacing The Existing Well Cover. Tools: Wire cutters, strippers, Allen wrench set. a) When you untangled the pump wiring, you should have found connections. Typically these are wire nuts under electrical tape. They may be crimped connectors, in which case you will need to cut the wires close to the connectors. You will usually have three wires and sometimes four. Note the colors and disconnect them. As an additional safety precaution, take the bare wire ends coming from the house and touch them to the well case one at a time as you disconnect them. If for some reason there were power, they would arc against the case and not you. The wires must reconnect in the same order.
You may need to tie some twine onto the pump wires to keep them from falling down the well. The wires should however be taped to the piping a few feet down. b) Inspect the outer rim of the well case. Your new cover (P9) is made to fit either a standard 4", 5", 6" or 8" pipe. The case should measure either 4 5/8, 5 5/8, 6 5/8" or 8 5/8" on the outside diameter. Three holes are in the cover(p9); one where the split flange (P10) is located, one 1" threaded hole for the electrical, and a 1 _" hole for a pressure pipe for an existing submersible pump if it is routed through the cap (see previous section heading "PRESSURE PIPE THROUGH THE COVER"). Any unused holes should be plugged when the installation is complete with the plugs provided with the cover (P9). Your new cover(p9) has 1/16" clearance Well drillers often leave torch slag on the case. This needs to be removed if it protrudes beyond the outside diameter. A sharp flat file will remove it. A hand grinder will also work very quickly. c) Taking the wiring from inside the case, pass the wires through the 1" threaded port in the new cover(p9). Now slide the cover (P9) over the case, level if necessary and tighten the four outer set- screws. d) You will need to carefully evaluate your wiring to determine the best method to enclose the wiring. Sometimes flexible conduit is the easiest method. However you finish off the electrical conduit, make certain that the wiring is reconnected in the same order as the original. Also make certain that the wiring inside the case does not obstruct the path for the hand pump piping as you look down through the split flange (P10). Once your existing wiring is reconnected, you can energize your electric pump and make sure that it is working normally before you proceed. The hardest part is done. Section 4: Pump Cylinder, Drop Pipe Installation. In this section we will review the installation of the entire string of new drop pipe with the pump cylinder at the bottom. Being extremely cautious during this sequence is critical. Dropping the entire pipe string down the well is easy. They are almost impossible to retrieve. Follow these directions! Tools, supplies: Two pairs of channel locks, safety tool (P11), Teflon plumber's tape, bleach/water 1part bleach 24 parts water. Before starting, let's identify and organize the parts that we will need. The drop pipes are all identical except the one that will be used on the top (D5). This one has male threads on both ends. The top end has 1 1/4" pipe threads on a fitting. a) Lay out all of your pipes with the capped ends away from you. Now take the fiberglass sucker rod (D2) and slide one into each pipe (male end out) until it bumps the plastic cap, including the top drop pipe (D5). b) Take the pump cylinder (P1) over to one of the standard drop pipes (D1) and remove the end cap (on the male end of the drop pipe) and screw together the fiberglass sucker rod with steel pump rod protruding out of the pump cylinder. Tighten with two pairs channel locks until snug, being careful to only grip the metal portions of both rods and not the fiberglass. DO NOT CRUSH EITHER THE STAINLESS STEEL FITTING ON THE FIBERGLASS SUCKER ROD OR THE FIBERGLASS ITSELF! c) Apply the Teflon tape to the threads on the male end of the drop pipe (D1) and thread the drop pipe into the pump cylinder. Be careful not to cross thread. Tighten with two pairs of channel locks.
d) Pour the bleach solution over the pump cylinder. (Watch your clothes.) e) (Two persons) Now stand the assembly on end with the pump cylinder at the bottom and, insert the assembly into the new well cover through the split flange (P10). When the pump passes through the port, slide the safety tool over the pipe and let it lay on the split flange. As the pipe is lowered, the safety tool will stop the drop pipe at the coupling. You can now let loose. f) You should be looking at a coupling with a rod protruding about 4" out. (The rod should be pushed to the bottom if it is not already there.) Now take a sucker rod guide (D3) and slide it over the protruding rod and into the coupling. You are ready for the next section of drop pipe. g) Take another section of standard drop pipe (D1) with the sucker rod inserted and stand on end with the plastic cap down. With one person holding the pipe upright over the coupling in the cover, the other can remove the plastic cap and align the sucker rods. Thread both together making sure they are not cross-threaded and tighten with two pairs of channel locks, being careful not to grip the fiberglass portion of the sucker rod and not crushing the stainless steel fittings on the ends. Apply Teflon tape to the male threads and thread the pipe into the coupling and tighten with two pairs of channel locks. Do not let the coupling spin on the safety tool, as it can work its way out. Lift the pipe string while the other person removes the safety tool. As soon as the coupling passes through the port, reinsert the safety tool and hold it until the next coupling approaches. As the next coupling nears the safety tool, the other person can grab the sucker rod and pull upward helping to support the load and to keep the other person from pinching his fingers as the coupling comes into contact with the safety tool. This process is repeated for each section of standard drop pipe. When you suspect that you might be near your water level, pull up on the sucker rod at any time. If you are not in the water yet, the rod will fall very quickly. When you are in water, the rod will fall more slowly. Sometimes, as the pipe is lowered, a gurgling sound can be heard when the pump is in water. You can also stroke the rod repeatedly and water will be pumped up the string. If you are in water, it will become harder to stroke after ten strokes or so. The pipe string is also much heavier with water in it. h) When you are ready for the top drop pipe, install it just like the others. Lower this one down to the safety tool like the others. Section 5: Pump Head Installation. In this section we will review the installation and assembly of the pump head. Tools, supplies: Two pair of channel locks. a) Find the 3/4" diameter top pump rod (P3) and thread it onto the sucker rod (D2) at the well cover. With a pair of channel locks, grip the 3/4" steel rod only near its end, being careful not to mar the finish of the steel rod. Tighten with two pairs of channel locks until snug. b) Attach the lever bracket (P4) to the pump head with the 1/4" Allen screw provided. The straight side of the bracket should be at the top. c) Apply Teflon tape to the male thread at the top of the drop pipe string. Slide the pump head over the 3/4" shaft and align and thread onto the top drop pipe (D5). Make sure the pump head is perfectly vertical. This part is easy to cross thread. While holding the D5 coupling with a pair of channel locks, the other person can tighten by turning the top of the pump head.
d) Now with a 1/4" Allen wrench, find the clamping screw inside the split flange. Lift and remove the safety tool and lower the pump head into the split flange. This is a snug fit. Rotate the assembly clockwise and the pump will work its way through the split flange. Continue lowering the pump head body (P2) through the well cap split flange (P10) until pump head is at a convenient height. Tighten the split flange clamping screw. For Model 100T (T Handle) simply connect the "T" handle to the top 3/4" shaft. For Model 100L (Lever handle) see below e),f) and g). e) Attach the clevis (P7) to the top pump rod (P3) and tighten while gripping the shaft only near the end, next to the clevis. f) Slide the link arm (P5) over the lever bracket (P4) aligning the holes. Insert the pivot pin (P8). These go in a little hard. A little Vaseline on the tip helps. g) Assemble the lever (P6) to the lever link arm (P5) and clevis (P7) using the remaining pivot pins. You are ready to pump water! Section 6: Pumping Water. Finishing Touches. It will require about one stroke for each foot of water depth to get the water up to the pump head initially. 100 feet will require about 100 to 120 strokes. There is a very small bleeder hole (1/32 of a inch) about 8 feet below your pump head, in the top drop pipe. This takes about 15 minutes to drain and protects the pump against freezing. Each time you go out to pump after a period of time, it will require about six to 10 strokes to get the water back to the pump head. The check valves in the pump cylinder allow a very small amount of leakage over time. Over several days or weeks, you may need to pump a few extra strokes to get the water back to the top. Pressure Piping: The outlet nipple has hose threads on one side and 3/4" pipe threads on the other. This allows for a variety of possible piping configurations from the outlet. If you intend to pressurize your house pressure tank from the hand pump, we recommend that a check valve be installed so that the freeze protection drain will not drain off your house pressure. Also make sure that a relief valve is installed somewhere in the system to prevent overpressuring. The Simple pump can deliver well over 100 PSI, which may damage your house plumbing if protection is not provided. In climates where freezing occurs, protection will need to be provided to prevent the pump from freezing if piped from the outlet.
Contents Introduction Specifications Warranty Assembly Procedure for Model GM100 Gear motor 1/10 and 1/5 H.P. models Section 1 Section 2 Section 3 Section 4 Section 5 Section 6 Unpacking, Inspection Preparing Your Existing Pump Gear motor Mounting Electrical Connection Operation Maintenance Introduction Thank you for purchasing your GM100 gear motor assembly. The model GM100 is designed to be used with either the 100L or 100T hand pump. When assembled onto the model 100 pump, the gear motor is capable of delivering 1/2 to 2 gallons per minute of water from as deep as 240 feet. The gear motor must be powered by a 12 volt, direct current power source such as a marine or automotive battery. Precaution must be taken to prevent operation under low voltage conditions below 11.5 volts. Tools required: One 3/16 hex Allen wrench preferably a T handle; One small Phillips screw driver. Specifications: Motor size: 1/10 HP Output Torque Capacity: 75 in/lbs. Nominal Output RPM: 57 Full Load Motor Current: 9.0 amps (1/10h.p.) or 18.0 amps (1/5h.p.) (Full load is the upstroke - average load is 50-60% of full load) Allowable Voltage Range: 11.5 to 15 Volts dc Shipping weight: 23 lbs. Warranty: The gear motor assembly is warranted against defective materials and workmanship for a period of 1 year from the date of purchase. The motor load must not be exceeded and any routine maintenance recommended in the instructions must be adhered to. Section 1: Unpacking, Inspection Carefully remove the gear motor assembly from the shipping box, along with a small plastic bag of screws and spare fuses. Using a Philips screw driver remove the two small screws attaching the cover. Remove the cover and lift out the large aluminum yoke. You should have all of the components shown in Fig. 1. The plastic bag should have 4 Allen screws and three spare fuses.
Fig. 1 Section 2: Preparing Your Existing Pump Your hand pump should already be installed and pumping water without any binding and with a smooth operation prior to attempting to install the gear motor. You should confirm that your pump is delivering at least one gallon of water with approximately 25 strokes with the lever handle system (model 100L). If you have the model 100T you should be getting one gallon in about 14 complete strokes. Once proper pumping function is confirmed, remove all hardware on the top of the pump head so that your pump looks like the Fig. 2. Also, push the pump rod fully down. It should be no higher than 3-3/4 from the top of the head to the shoulder as shown in the figure. Fig. 2 Section 3: Gear motor Mounting a) Using a 3/16 hex Allen wrench remove the crank arm roller as shown in Fig. 3. b) Screw on the yoke to the top of the pump rod (Fig 4). Hold the pump rod as high as
possible with adjustable pliers and tighten the yoke. Tapping with a rubber mallet works well. c) Attach the entire assembly to the pump head using the four screws provided (Fig. 5). Leave the screws very lightly tightened. Lift the pump rod as shown in Fig. 6. Make sure that the movement is smooth and does not bind. The clearance in the mounting holes provides a small amount of movement in the gear motor. Make small adjustments to the gear motor mounting, bumping it from side to side until the pump rod strokes up and down freely (Fig. 6). This step is very important. If the pumping motion is not free at this stage, the gear motor will not pump freely. d) Reinstall the cam roller in the closest hole to the center (Fig. 7). Do this by lifting the pump rod until the roller can be installed in the correct position. Fig. 4 Fig. 5
Fig. 6 Fig. 7 Section 4: Electrical Connection The two wires coming out the bottom of the gear motor are to be supplied with 12 volts dc power. Make sure that your supply wiring is at least 16 gauge and can maintain a minimum of 11.5 volts with the motor at a full load of 9 Amps. The red wire is the positive (+) power lead and the black is the negative (-). When working on the power connection, put the switch next to the motor in the off (push on the bottom side) position and remove the fuse (push and turn counter-clockwise). Provisions need to be made in your power supply to prevent operation of the motor when voltage is below 11.5 volts, such as when a battery is nearly discharged. Section 5: Operation a) Once the power has been connected, reinstall the fuse and attach the cover shown in Fig. 8. On the break-in period, leave the pump outlet open or pumping through a garden hose unrestricted. Make sure that nothing is setting on top of the gear motor. Turn on the switch which will initiate the pumping action. With the stroke setting at the shortest position, the pump will only generate about 3/4 gallon per minute. The pump should run for at least two hours at this setting to facilitate break- in. b) Once the pump has run for two hours at the first stroke setting, disconnect the power, open the cover and move the roller to the next position. Run the pump for two hours at each setting. When you reach a setting that causes the fuse to blow, you know that you have exceeded the motor limit. Move the roller back to the previous setting. This will be the maximum pump rate for your well conditions. If you connect your pump to pressurize a house system or to an elevated storage tank, you will need to determine the optimum stroke setting using the same method as above, but under actual maximum pressure conditions.
Fig. 8 Flow Capacities and Pressures : Maximum Total Head Flow Rate GPM Pump Stroke Setting 1/10h.p. - 1/5h.p. motor 240 feet (104 psi).75-2.0 2.3" 160 feet (69 psi) 1.0-2.0 3.5" 126 feet (54 psi) 1.4-2.0 4.6" 92 feet (43 psi) 1.7-2.0 5.8" 76 feet (33 psi) 2.0-2.0 6.9" Section 6: Maintenance, Trouble Shooting As long as the gear motor system is pumping correctly and not causing the motor to overload, no maintenance is required. If the mechanism experiences a bearing failure for any reason the motor protection fuse will blow. It is extremely important to replace the fuse with only a 10 amp quick blow 1/4 x 1-1/4. Using a larger fuse will overheat the motor and damage the gears. The motor normally operates at around 100 to 110 degrees F. If the fuse has blown for any reason, remove the cover and remove the crank arm roller. Lift the yoke up and down by hand. How freely the yoke moves or does not move is an indication of what the motor is working against. Typical reasons for difficult movement: a) Misalignment of the gear motor assembly. Loosen the four attaching screws on the pump head and make sure that the assembly is aligned before re-tightening. Make sure that there is no metal to metal contact except at the rollers. b) Seized roller: Check both rollers for free movement. c) Pump binding: Remove the gear motor and stroke the pump rod by hand. It should require about 40 pounds of lifting effort for each 100 feet of water level. If the effort is any more than this, remove the pump head and try again to determine if the problem is in the head. After this check routine, reassemble the system and repeat the startup procedure.