MITSIBUSHI FTO NUT,BOLT AND TORQUE GUIDE All information below has been obtained from the official Mitsubishi fto workshop manual, and I hold no liability for any incorrect information. Heads marked 4 STANDARD BOLTS M5 0.8 2.5 M6 1.0 4.9 M8 1.25 12 M10 1.25 24 M12 1.25 41 M14 1.5 72 M16 1.5 111 M18 1.5 167 M20 1.5 226 M22 1.5 304 M24 1.5 392 Heads marked 7 M5 0.8 4.9 M6 1.0 8.8 M8 1.25 22 M10 1.25 44 M12 1.25 81 M14 1.5 137 M16 1.5 206 M18 1.5 304 M20 1.5 412 M22 1.5 559 M24 1.5 735 Heads marked 8 M5 0.8 5.0 M6 1.0 9.8 M8 1.25 25 M10 1.25 52 M12 1.25 96 M14 1.5 157 M16 1.5 235 M18 1.5 343 M20 1.5 481 M22 1.5 647 M24 1.5 853
FLANGE BOLTS Heads marked 4 M6 1.0 4.9 M8 1.25 13 M10 1.25 26 M10 1.5 24 M12 1.25 46 M12 1.75 42 Heads marked 7 M6 1.0 9.8 M8 1.25 24 M10 1.25 49 M10 1.5 44 M12 1.25 93 M12 1.75 81 Heads marked 8 M6 1.0 12 M8 1.25 28 M10 1.25 57 M10 1.5 54 M12 1.25 103 M12 1.75 96 SPECIFIC TOURQE SETTINGS 4G92 & 6A12 ENGINE (AS APLICABLE) NOTE: The Headbolts and rod bolts are set in ANGULAR TORQUE. IE. the 90 = 90 degrees rotation, not 90 NM. POSISTION BOLT DIAMETER (MM) TORQUE(NM) ALTERNATOR AND IGNITION SYSTEM Oil level gauge 13 Distributor 12 Ignition coil 10 Spark plug 25 Crankshaft bolt 182 ± 4 Alternator brace M8 23 Alternator brace M10 49 Lock bolt 23 Adjusting bolt 5
Power steering pump pulley 25 Power steering pump bracket stay 49 Power steering pump bracket M8 21 Power steering pump bracket M10 44 Alternator pivot bolt 44 Center cover 3 Ignition failure sensor M6 5 Ignition failure sensor M8 23 Ignition failure sensor bracket 10 Cam position sensor 9 Cam position sensor support 13 Cam position sensing cylinder 21 Engine cover 2.9 TIMING BELT Camshaft sprocket bolt 88 Cam position sensor 9.8 Crank angle sensor 9.8 Timing belt rear cover 11 Timing belt rear upper cover 11 Timing belt tensioner 24 Engine support bracket, right 49 Accessory mount 49 Timing belt cover 11 Tensioner pulley bolt 49 Tensioner arm bolt 44 Auto-tensioner bolt 13 Idler pulley bolt 36 FUEL SYSTEM AND EMISSION SYSTEM Breather tube 21 Fuel return pipe 9
Delivery pipe 12 Fuel pressure regulator 9 Throttle body stay <MIVEC> 23 Throttle body 19 Throttle cable bracket 19 Harness bracket 11 Breather tube 21 INTAKE MANIFOLD AND EXHAUST MANIFOLD Exhaust manifold (M8) 18 Exhaust manifold (M10) 29 Exhaust manifold bracket (M8) 19 Exhaust manifold bracket (M10 Bolt and washer assembly) 35 Exhaust manifold bracket (M10 Flange bolt) 98 Engine hanger (Bolt with head mark 4 ) 12 Engine hanger (Bolt with head mark 7 ) 19 Oil level gauge guide 14 Boost sensor 5 Intake air temperature sensor 13 Heat protector 13 Intake manifold 20 Intake manifold stay 31 Oxygen sensor 44 WATER PUMP AND WATER HOSE Water pump 24 Water inlet pipe 14 Thermostat case 24 Water inlet fitting 19 Water by-pass fitting 24 Water pipe 14 Water outlet fitting 19
Engine coolant temperature gauge Engine coolant temperature sensor 10 29 Water fitting 24 FRONT CASE AND OIL PUMP Oil pump cover 10 Oil pump case 14 Relief plug 44 Oil screen 19 Oil pan 9 Upper oil pan (M6) 9 Upper oil pan (M8) 24 Lower oil pan 11 Cover 7 Drain plug 39 Oil pressure switch 10 Transmission stay 23 ROCKER ARMS AND CAMSHAFT Lock nut 9 Rocker arm shaft 31 Harness bracket 10 Rocker cover 3.5 Bearing cap bolt (M6) 11 Bearing cap bolt (M8) 24 Beam camshaft cap (M6) 11 Beam camshaft cap (M8) 21 ROCKER COVER AND CAMSHAFTS (MIVEC) Rocker cover 4 Oil pump 11 Arm spring holder 11
Camshaft bearing cap (M6) 11 Camshaft bearing cap (M8) 23 Oil control valve 9 ROCKER ARMS AND ROCKER SHAFT CAPS (MIVEC) Rocker shaft cap 11 Oil pump 11 Arm spring holder 11 Camshaft bearing cap (M6) 11 Camshaft bearing cap (M8) 23 Oil control valve 9 CYLINDER HEAD AND VALVES CylInder head bolt 74 Nm and then completely loosen 20 Nm + 90+ 90 Oil pressure switch 10 Rocker cover 4 PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD Connecting rod cap nut 20 + 90to 100 CRANKSHAFT, CYLINDER BLOCK, FLYWHEEL AND DRIVE PLATE Bearing cap bolt 25 + 90to 100 Oil seal case 11 Bell housing cover (Flange bolt) 10 Bell housing cover (Bolt and washer assembly ) 9 Rear plate 11 Drive plate bolt 98 Flywheel bolt 98 Baffle plate 9 Knock sensor 23
TORQUE WRENCH INFORMATION Car manufacturers specify a proper tightening level, a torque value expressed in foot-pounds, for every fastener on your car. Torque is a rotational force applied around a point or, in this case, a nut. Put a 1-footlong wrench on a nut and apply 10 pounds of force to the opposite end. You're now twisting that nut with 10 ft-lb (distance times force, or 1 foot times 10 pounds). Use a 2-foot-long wrench and apply 50 pounds of force, and you'll have 100 ft-lb, which, happily, is just about as long as most lug wrenches, and as much force as most elbows are happy cranking on. While most mechanics rely on a well-calibrated elbow to tighten things, it's vitally important that the tightness of a fastener fall within a fairly narrow range. Too loose and there's the danger of the nut or bolt spontaneously unscrewing down the road. Or maybe the gasket or O-ring fitting clamped by that bolt will leak. Too tight and there are other risks: The bolted-together part may be compressed, bent or otherwise damaged. The bolt shank could break, or the threads may strip, providing no clamping force at all. The best way to tighten fasteners is with a device called a torque wrench. BASICS Why don't we simply tighten every fastener of any particular size to the same torque value? Why do we need a shop manual to tell us that one 5 16-inch bolt holding down a valve cover needs 11 ft-lb, while the 5 16-inch stud on the shock absorber needs 20? Let's discuss what happens when you turn a nut or bolt head. The threads are a form of inclined plane or wedge, the simplest type of tool. As the inclined plane is wedged (turned) into the threads, it applies a force along the bolt's length, effectively making the bolt a tension spring. This tension in the bolt shank clamps two parts together. If the clamping force is greater than the load exerted between, say, the head and the block, those two pieces will never spontaneously get loose. And the more twisting force you apply to the bolt head or nut, the more clamping force in the joint. So just tighten it until it won't come loose, right? Wrong. Differences in overall bolt length, the material of the clamped parts, the presence of a gasket between the two parts, and even the alloy of the bolt itself affect the proper torque. Also, the proper torque value takes into account the friction between the threads, which is the single biggest variable that affects the relationship between the torque applied to the bolt head and the clamping force. Friction arises from the threads as well as the rotating bolt face scrubbing along the stationary workpiece. Overcoming friction can account for as little as a few percent or as much as 50 percent of the force needed while tightening a nut or bolt. And that means that the clamping force can vary widely not good when you're installing a cylinder head or an intake manifold.
TORQUE WRENCH TYPES (1) Bending-Beam This is the wrench for those who don't regularly need a torque wrench. The large center beam bends as you apply torque, while the unbending pointer beam lets you read the torque directly. If it goes out of calibration, simply bend the pointer back to zero with a pair of pliers. The single biggest disadvantage is that your eyeball has to be parked directly above the pointer while you read the scale, which is tough in hard-to-reach places. (2) Micrometer "Clicker" This pro-grade tool is preset to the correct torque and will click tactilely and audibly when it reaches the correct torque. It's highly repeatable and accurate, but should be returned to zero after every use. Even so, it should be calibrated regularly if used for critical parts like suspension and internal engine fasteners. Don't use your torque wrench like a ratchet for disassembly save it for final assembly.