BUILD YOUR OWN TM Pack 6 0
CONTENTS Assembly Guide 43 Stage 5: The left fuel tank base Stage 5: The engine cables Stage 53: The LED tester Editorial and design by Continuo Creative, 39-4 North Road, London N7 9DP. Published in the UK by De Agostini UK Ltd, Battersea Studios, 8 Silverthorne Road, London SW8 3HE. Published in the USA by De Agostini Publishing USA, Inc., 95 Broadway, Suite 609, New York, NY 000. All rights reserved 05 Warning: Not suitable for children under the age of 4. This product is not a toy and is not designed or intended for use in play. Items may vary from those shown. TM www.model-space.com
Stage 5 The left fuel tank base Align the projecting part of the ignition switch with the hole in the left tank base. Push the projection into the hole and hold the switch in place. Your parts Fuel tank base (left) Ignition switch Ignition key Washers Screws (type G) 3 3 4 Turn the tank base over, and apply a small amount of instant adhesive to the hole, to fix the ignition switch in place. Tools Prepare Phillips screwdriver File Instant adhesive Masking tape Cellulose tape Left frame half (Stage 50) Refer to Stage 48 to check the required holes in the left frame half for burrs or flash. Remove any that you find with a file. Then align the projections on the top side of the tank base with the holes in the frame half. 43
5 7 6 Push the tank base into position. 8 Insert the first type G screw into the large hole towards the front of the frame half. Place the two washers onto two type G screws. 9 Tighten the screw into place. Repeat this procedure to insert the second type G screw into the hole further towards the rear of the frame half. This will secure the tank base. 0 Check the top of the ignition key for any leftover casting flash (circled), and remove any that you find with a file. Insert the ignition key into the ignition switch, with the hole facing forward as shown in the inset. 44 To avoid losing the key, fix it temporarily in place with a strip of cellulose tape. Also, temporarily fix the ignition switch wiring to the frame half, using a length of masking tape. Stage complete
Stage 5 The engine cables Cable A Cable B Take cable A and cable B, and look at the circled ends to see the differences between them. Turn the two cables over. The raised parts painted red will also help you to tell which cable is which. Your parts Battery box Cable A Cable B 4 9mm screws with washers 4 Joint E Joint A Base frame Connecting pin Tools Prepare Tweezers Instant adhesive Right frame half (Stage 50) Masking tape Plastic bag Pen 3 4 Take the right frame half and locate the hole below the breather cover (circled) on the engine. Align the end of cable B with the hole. Push the end of cable B into the hole. 45
STEP 55 Loose cables STEP 6 5 If the cables don t stay in the holes or are loose, add a drop of instant adhesive to the ends to hold them in place. Line up the end of cable A with the hole near the end of the engine (circled). Push the end of cable A into the hole. Stage complete STEP 75 STEP 58 Take the ends of cables A and B, plus the ends of the two cables from Stage 47, and pass them all through the gap in the frame half. Wrap masking tape around the ends of the cables to hold them together. 46
Stage 53 The LED tester Take the LED tester and locate the 0 points on the sockets marked in red in the photo above. These are the points at which you will make knife cuts in the next step. Your parts Cut down through the points in each of the sockets, as indicated by the red lines in the example above. LED tester 3 4 When you ve made all the cuts, bend the freed sections of the sockets outwards across the edges of the board, as shown. Tools Prepare Knife Pliers AAA batteries 3 Front fork (Stage 0) Rear fender (Stage 35) Left frame half (Stage 5) Right frame half (Stage 5) Battery box (Stage 5) The LED tester should now look like this. 47
The LED tester The LED tester is designed to test the various LED components of your Honda CB750. The purpose of testing them at this stage is to check that they are all working now, rather than finding out that they don t work when it is too late to replace them. Power socket (JP) -pin socket (JP3) Switch component socket (JP) 3-pin socket (JP4) This is the socket that the battery box will be connected to. If the LED doesn t light up when connected, then there is an issue with either the battery box, the cable or the connection. This socket is used only for testing switch-activated components, such as the rear brake pedal or the ignition switch. This socket should not be used for LEDs. There are five types of socket in three sizes. JP3, JP4 and JP5 are LED sockets, in three different sizes; JP is the socket for the battery box; and JP is the socket for switches. Remember that when you plug multiple connectors into a socket, the voltage will be reduced, so when testing the components, it s best to test one at a time. You will, however, always need to keep the battery box plugged into the JP socket. 48 Switch confirmation (LED) When you check the rear brake pedal by plugging it in and then pushing down on it to complete the circuit, the LED mounted on the tester should light up. If the LED doesn t light up, then there is a problem with either a cable or a connection. The smallest of the LED connectors is the -pin socket, JP3. This socket will accommodate the tail light and the headlight connectors. If the LED of the tested part doesn t illuminate, the cable may be broken. The 3-pin socket, JP4, is used for the rear indicators only. This is the middle-sized socket. If the tested LED doesn t illuminate, then the cable may be broken. 4-pin socket (JP5) The largest of the sockets on the LED tester is the 4-pin JP5. This socket will take the connectors of the speedometer, the tachometer and the front indicators. If any of the LEDs don t light when tested, then the cable is probably broken.
The battery box The battery box from Stage 5 is essential to the LED tester, because it provides the power needed to test the components. Prepare three working AAA batteries. The inside of the battery box (Stage 5) is marked to show you which way round the batteries should be inserted. Insert the three AAA batteries into the box. 3 4 Take the battery box cable and insert it into socket JP on the LED tester. The LED tester is now ready to use. 49
Preparing the parts for checking The LED components on your model can be divided into three groups: constant lights, such as the headlight; blinking lights, such as the indicators; and switch lights, such as the rear brake light. The images below show which lights you will be checking during this stage. Front fork assembly The headlight, indicators, speedometer and tachometer. 3 Left frame half The rear left indicator. 50 Right frame half Rear brake pedal and rear right indicator. 4 Rear fender The tail light.
The front fork assembly The front fork assembly has five LEDs: the headlight, the indicators, the tachometer and the speedometer. There are two 4-pin plugs and one -pin plug. First, plug the green 4-pin connector into socket JP5. Place the front fork assembly on its side, and hold the cables out behind it, as shown. The white plug is a -pin, and the green and yellow plugs are both 4-pin. 3 The speedometer and tachometer should light up. Now unplug the connector. 5
5 4 5 Now plug the yellow 4-pin connector into socket JP5. The indicators should now light up. When your model is complete, the indicators will blink separately, but when testing they will both come on together. 6 7 Plug the -pin connector into socket JP3. The headlight should now light up. Unplug the connector when you ve tested the headlight.
The rear indicators Unlike the front indicators, the rear indicators are separately wired, so will need to be tested individually. Plug the rear left indicator connector (blue, 3-pin) into socket JP4. 3 Plug the rear right indicator connector (red, 3-pin) into socket JP4. The rear left indicator should light up. 4 The rear right indicator should light up. 53
The tail light The tail light will come on together with the headlight, or when the rear brake is applied. Take the tail light cable and plug its connector (green, -pin) into socket JP3. If the tail light illuminates, then it is working; if not, then the cable is probably broken somewhere. When you ve tested the tail light, unplug the connector from the socket. 54
The switches Now you can test the switches on your model. If these are working properly, they switch on the LED on the tester when their circuits are completed. 3 4 Check these Don t check this one Insert the rear brake pedal connector (red, -pin) into socket JP. There are three cables coming from the right frame half, in addition to the rear right indicator cable. You will be checking the leads that have the red and yellow connectors. When you press down on the brake pedal, the LED on the tester should light up. If it doesn t, check the connection at the other end. If there is no problem with the connection, the cable is probably at fault. Next, insert the kick-starter connector (yellow, -pin) into socket JP. 5 6 7 Flip the kick-starter out and press it down. The LED on the tester should light up. If it doesn t, check that the lever is making proper contact with the switch. If it is, then the cable may be broken. Insert the ignition switch connector (blue, -pin) from the left frame half into socket JP. Place the ignition key in the switch, and the LED on the tester should light up. If it doesn t, the key may be in the wrong position. If this isn t the case, the cable is most likely not working. 55
Honda CB750 FOUR: TM 0