Note: Please read through the entire guide before attempting any kind of installation.

KIT-RSP Installation Guide Version 1.3 Auber Instruments, 730 Culworth Manor, Alpharetta, GA 30022 e-mail: info@auberins.com Tel: 770-569-8420 www.auberins.com This is a PID controller kit installation guide solely distributed to our clients, who have purchased the KIT-RS kit. Once you are done with this guide, please send us your feedback, comments, and/or suggestions (via e-mail to auberins@gmail.com) so that we may continue making improvements on this guide. Your help is greatly appreciated! Note: Please read through the entire guide before attempting any kind of installation. Disclaimer: This product was created and distributed by Auber Instruments Inc. Everything included in this guide (images, text, etc.) is the intellectual property of Auber Instruments Inc. Thus, this guide is not to be replicated, altered, or sold without express written permission from Auber Instruments Inc. If you did not receive this document from Auber Instruments Inc, please let us know; as it is subject to inaccuracy and/or obsolescence. The Rancilio Silvia names and trademarks are owned by Rancilio Macchine per caffè. S.p.A. The modifications of Rancilio Silvia involve tampering with high-wattage electrical circuits in a wet environment, which could result in electric shock, burns, other serious personal injury or death, as well as fire, explosion and other property damage. This kit is for users with proper electrical safety knowledge only. Attempting to access your espresso machine will void its warrantee. You, the user, will assume full responsibility for any modifications undertaken. Auber Instruments Inc is not liable for any damage caused to your property as a result of improper use. Parts Identification. Fig 1. PID Controller, Aluminum extrusion box, rubber grommet, double sided tape pre-assembled - Front view on left. Back view on right. 1

Figure 2. Solid State Relay (SSR), mounting screw nut and washer for SSR, silicone heat transfer compound (white paste in the vial) for SSR and sensor, and RTD jumper cable (see D 3)). Figure 3, Cables for connecting SSR output to heater. Terminated with spade tongue terminal on one end and tab terminal on the on other end. Figure 4, Cables for connecting controller output to SSR input. Red colored cable for positive. White colored cable for negative. Terminated with spade tongue terminal on one end. 2

Figure 5. Cables for tapping power to controller. One black and one brown color, terminated with piggyback connector on one end. Figure 6, The RTD temperature sensor.. Figure 7, Cable ties Fig 8a. Steam control cable 3

Fig 8b, Upper, brew pump control cable. Lower, jumper cable for brew pump control Fig 8c. Controller box ground wire. Procedure A. Preparation for installation. 1) Disconnect the power cord from power outlet. Remove the water tank, portafilter, and drip tray. 2) Remove the splash guard panel. Remove the screws indicated by the red arrows in Fig 9. Slide the stainless panel out from left side. Figure 9. Red arrows indicates the screws that hold the splash guard panel. 4

3) Remove the top cover. Remove the screws indicated by the red arrows in Fig 10. Pull out the top panel. Figure 10. Top panel. Red arrows indicate the screws that hold the top panel. B. Install the steam control cable. The steam control cables need to be installed on the steam switch in the location indicated by figure 11. To access the switch terminals in the lower left position, the front panel that holds the switch needs to be detached from the black colored main frame. It will take several steps to be done. Figure 11. Location of the cables to be replaced on the steam switch. 1) Remove the back panel of the machine. Remove the two screws indicated in Fig 12a. Loosen the screw indicated in Fig 12b by several turns (do not remove it). The back panel can be removed by sliding it back and lifting up. 5

Fig 12a, Red arrow indicates the screw that hold back panel. Fig 12b. The screw on the bottom of machine that holds the back panel (Red arrow). 2) Remove the protecting panel for the pump. Remove the two screws indicated in Fig 13 and remove the panel. Fig 13. Screws that hold the protecting penal for the pump. 3) Remove the steam control valve nub. The nub is removed by pulling with a little force. It is connected by a spring clipper. The left picture of Fig 14 shows the steam valve with nub on. The right picture shows the steam valve after the nub has been pulled out. 6

Fig 14. The steam valve control nub. 4) Remove the front panel. Remove the four screws shown on the top picture of Fig 15. The screws are accessible through the small hole on the U shaped frame. Loosen the two screws on the lower picture of Fig 15 (Do not remove them). Slide the front panel out by ~5 mm (0.2 ) and lift up. The front panel is now detached from the main frame. The steam switch is accessed by pulling the panel out slightly. Fig 15. Top, Location of the four screws that hold the front panel. Lower, the location of two screws in the bottom of the front panel which need to be loosened before the panel can be slide out. 7

5) Replace the steam control cable. The top picture of Fig 16 shows the two cables on the steam switch that need to be replaced with the new steam control cable provided. One is red and other is gray. You might need a long nose pliers to remove the connector from switch if it is difficult to reach or remove. The bottom picture shows the new cable that has been installed. The new white cable is on the top of the switch. The blue cable is piggybacked with the original red cable on the lower side of the switch. We installed it on the bottom blade of the switch because there is more space for the piggyback connector. The connector that holds the gray cables can be left hanging because this cable will be not connected to power after installation. 8

Fig 16. Replace the steam control cable. The blue cable is piggybacked with the red cable that was on the switch. 6) Install the controller box ground wire to the boiler. There are two green colored ground wires installed on the boiler. Remove one of the wires (the one stick away from the boiler is proffered). Slide the piggyback connector of the controller box ground wire to the ground tap. The tab on the piggyback connector should be at the bottom. Then, install the removed ground wire to the piggyback connector as shown in Fig 16a. Fig 16a. Install the controller box ground wire to the boiler. Red arrow shows its position. 9

7) Reinstall the front panel, steam valve control nub, protecting panel for pump and the back panel to its original position. C. Install the SSR 1) Assemble the cables on SSR as illustrated in Fig 17. The two red colored thick cables with soft silicone rubber insulation should be connected to the terminal marked as 1 and 2. It doesn't matter which of the two thick red cables goes to 1 or 2. The red colored the thin cable should be connected to 3 (+). The white colored thin cable should be connected to 4 (-). The clear plastic protection cover on the SSR can be removed for easy installation of the cable. Tighten the screw. Make sure the cables hold secure. Figure 17. SSR wiring. 2) The SSR is mounted on the wall behind the splash guard panel (lower right corner as shown in fig. 18). Apply small amount of the silicone heat transfer compound to the bottom metal surface of the SSR. Mount the SSR to the screw post as shown. Use the M4 screw nut and washer supplied in the kit to hold the SSR. The M4 screw can be tighten with a 7 mm socket wrench. Use a cable tie to hold four cables in place. Figure 18. SSR installed. 10

3) Install the splash guard panel back to its original position (figure 8 above). Feed the two SSR output cables into the boiler compartment. Feed the SSR input cables (the thin red and white ones) to the outside through the space around the steam wand (Fig 24 below) C. Installation in boiler compartment Fig 19, top view of original wiring. Red arrows indicating where the controller power cable will be tapped. Green arrow points to brew water control thermostat. Blue arrow points to steam temperature control thermostat. Yellow arrow points to the screw that RTD sensor will be mounted. Pink arrow points to the white cable that will connect to brew pump control cable. 1) There are two thermostats on top of the boiler. The one on left with a red dot on top is the brewing water temperature control thermostat. The one on the right is for controlling the steaming temperature. You need to remove the cable connectors marked with green and blue arrow from these two thermostats. They need to be connected to the output cables of SSR (the two thick red wires). The green arrows in Fig 20 show what it should look like at this step. 11

Fig 20. Connecting SSR output to heater (green arrows). 2) Install the washer RTD to the screw take hold the steam thermostat. Sometimes, it is convenient to work on the screws by temporarily removing the cable connector on the right side terminal of the heater. Please note that if the machine is old and as a result, the plastic protection guard of the heater connector is brittle, it might break off and leave some unprotected spots. You need to use a small to medium sized flat head screw driver to remove the screw. Be very careful to not let it drop into the gap below. If it drops to the top of the grouphead, it could be a lot of trouble to take it out. A magnetized screw driver will help. Fig 21 shows the RTD has been installed (marked with red arrow). The position of the RTD sensor will affect the performance of the controller. Please make sure the sensor is placed in the same position as the picture shows (underneath the thermostat holding bracket, not touching the cold water inlet). The round section of the sensor should touch the boiler surface. If not, you should flip it over. Do not bend the sensor tip with excess force. There is a ceramic sensor element inside the round section that is fragile. Apply small amount of silicone heat transfer compound to the gap between the sensor body and the boiler. 12

Fig 21, RTD sensor mounting (Red arrow). 3) Tapping the controller power line to the espresso machine. The power for the controller is tapped from the main power switch by using the piggyback connectors on the black cables. Remove the connectors with black and red cable on the main power switch (red arrows on Fig 19). Remember the original position: the connector with black cable should be on the left and connector with red cable in the center). Slide the two controller power cable piggyback connectors on to the switch as shown in Fig 22a. The tab on the piggyback connector should be on the top. You need to bend it downward a little bit if the angle is too high. It is very important that black cable is put on the left side of the switch and brown cable on right. After installing the connectors, connect the cables that were just removed to the tab on the piggyback connector. It is very important to keep the original position, black on the left and red in the center (Fig. 22b). Fig 22a. The controller power cable piggyback connector location. (red arrows). Brown cable on the right and black cable on the left. 13

Figure 22b. Put the original power cables back. 4) Install brew pump control cable. Remove the white colored cable from brew switch. Connect the green colored brew pump control cable to the white cable and hold it in stable place by tying it up to the blue cable. Fig 23. Fig. 23. Red arrow shows where the white cable has been removed. Green arrow shows the cable is connected to the green colored pump control cable. They are hold to a stable place by a cable tie. D. Connecting the controller. 1) Remove all 8 screws on the controller box. Save them in a safe place. 2) Fit the steam control cables, controller power cables and RTD sensor cables to the outside through the gap around the steam wand (red arrow in Fig. 24). Collect the SSR 14

control cables from the back of the splash guard pane. Fit all cables through the rubber grommet on the back panel of the controller box. Make sure the direction of the back panel is as shown in figure 24. The surface with chamfered screw whole is the outside surface. Cables should come from the outside surface to the inside. You need to fit the cables through the grommet one at a time. There are nine cables total. Figure 24, Cables going through the back panel of the controller box. 3) Feed the cables through the controller box. Connect them to the controller as shown in Fig 25. Wiring the controller correctly is very critical step. Failure to install it correctly can cause damage to the machine and electric shock. The terminal numbers are printed on labels located on both sides of the controller. The brown colored power cable needs to be connected to terminal 1. The black colored power cable needs to be connected to terminal 2. Connect the brew pump control jumper cable between terminal 2 and 4. The green colored brew pump control cable needs to be connected to terminal 5, The SSR input cable has a polarity. The red colored cable from SSR is for terminal 10. Both white colored cables, one for SSR input and one for steam control are connected terminal 9. The blue colored steam control cable connects to terminal 3. The clear RTD cables need to be connected to terminal 7 and 8. The white colored RTD jumper cable needs to connect to terminal 6 and 7. Bending the wire tip will make the insertion of the cable easier as shown in Fig 26. In order to prevent the cables from coming loose when pulling on them during box installation, make sure all cables are securely tightened by a screw driver. Also, make sure there are no small wires touching the other terminals, causing a short circuit. 15

Fig 25a, Connecting the wire to controller. Figure 25b, Detailed view. 16

Figure 26. Bend the wire for easier to insert. 4) Install a cable tie as strain relief Place a cable tie at 1.5 to 2 inch away from the back of the controller (make sure the tie is not too close to the back terminals. Otherwise, the cable will have no room to bend). Cut off the tail of the tie as shown in Fig. 27. This tie will function as strain relief to preventing the wire being pulled off the terminal.. Figure 27, Install a cable tie as strain relief. 5) Install the controller to the box. Screw the front panel first. Make sure the surface of the box with double sided tape is on top of the controller. Then, gently pull out the cable from the back panel of the box until it is stopped by strain relief. Screw on the back panel. Make sure the rubber grommet is on the lower right corner (viewing from back). Mount the controller box ground wire to the lower right screw as shown in Fig 28. 17

Figure 28. back view of the controller box. 6) Clean the controller box mounting area on the espresso machine with cotton ball soaked with alcohol to ensure a good adhesion of the box. Fig 20. This is very important because the metal surface might contain oil that reduces the bonding strength of the tape. When properly installed, 3M double tape is very strong and durable. It has been used for industrial use such as in building structures and automobile parts. Figure 29. cleaning the box mounting area with alcohol. 7) Remove the protection film on the double side tape on the box. Slowly and carefully mount it on the espresso machine. Make sure there is a gap between the group head and box as shown on Fig. 30. It is for reducing the heat transfer to the controller. The front 18

panel of the controller box should be flush with the machine front panel for make is looks neat. You have only one chance to put it in the right position. If you remove it and try to put back again, the bonding will not be as good. Figure 30. Control box position. 8) Tie up the wire in the boiler compartment (Fig.31). Make sure there are no cables touching the boiler surface. This is especially important for the cables installed by the factory. The cable installed by factory has PVC insulation that will melt when touching the hot boiler surface. It can result in electric shock. Figure 31. Tie up the cables. 19

9) Install the top cover. Before doing that, you should cut the excess tail of the cable tie. Check all connections that have be changed. Make sure that there are no exposed wires or connectors that will touch the top cover metal when it is installed. Some of the cables that stayed above the top cover sitting level will move when the cover is installed. If that cable has an exposed metal connector, it could result in an electric short. 10) Install the water tank. The project is done. This is how the machine should look like now. To use the machine, please read Operation manual for Rancilio Kit. 20

Appendix 1) Circuit diagram of Silvia. 21

2) Circuit diagram of Silvia with the KIT-RSNST connection 3) Trouble shooing procedure for not heating or not heating properly. a) The controller OUT LED (on the left front of the controller), the LED on the SSR (on the black plastic cover), and the espresso boiler resistance light (the neon lamp by the 22

main power switch) should be synchronized. When they are on, the heater should heat. When they are off, the heater should not heat. Note, for kit with steam control (and pre-infusion), the OUT LED will not lit in the steam mode. However, the LED on the SSR and the neon lamp on the espresso should be on when temperature is below 140C (284F) and off above that temperature. b) If all three lights lit up but no heat. There are two possibilities a) the thermal protection thermostat was triggered. The most common cause is that the temperature sensor s round section didn t touch the boiler surface. It slows down the temperature response, causing the boiler to overheat. This could happen for the kit with steam control. In addition, if you change the setting or offset of the controller without adjust the steam temperature, the boiler can get overheat to trigger the thermostat. The thermal protection thermostat is mounted on the sidewall of the boiler with a red button on the top. You can reset the thermostat by press the red button until you feel a click. b) the heater is broken. To verify if the heater is broken, you can use a multimeter to measure the resistance when the machine is off and unplugged. A working heater should have about 12 ohm resistance (48 ohm for 220V model). c) If the OUT LED of controller lit but SSR LED and espresso boiler resistance light are off, the problem is between the controller and SSR. Use a multimeter to measure the voltage between A1 and A2 of the SSR. There should be a 7-8 VDC across it. If there is no voltage, try to measure the voltage at controller between terminal 9 and 10. If there is still no voltage, the controller is bad, Otherwise, the wiring is the problem. If there is a 7-8 VDC between A1 and A2 of the SSR, most likely, the wiring polarity is wrong, A1 should be positive. If there is voltage and polarity is right, the SSR is bad. d) If the OUT LED of controller and SSR LED lit, but espresso boiler resistance light is off, the problem is between the SSR and espresso. Use a multimeter to measure the voltage between L1 and T1 of SSR (meter needs to be set for AC voltage). If there is a 120 VAC (or 220VAC for the 220 line voltage), the problem is the SSR (assuming the heater is connected correctly and heater was working). e) If the OUT LED of controller and SSR LED are off, but espresso boiler resistance light is on and heater is heating. The SSR can be defective. Remove the cable on A1 to see if that can turn off the heater. If not, the SSR is bad. If you don t have a multimeter or don t know how to use one, please contact us to see if other diagnostic method can be used, based on your electricity knowledge and the tools you have. 23