12 th January 2017. I had a bit of a disaster this morning. I was trying to fit the ends of the front anti roll bar into the blast cabinet, when I let go, the roll bar dropped out and scratched the front wing. Never mind, its only paint. I am sure Mark at Jaymic can sort that out when the MGB goes back to them for its MOT and polishing of the paintwork. They now have their new low bake spray booth up and running. WANTED - HAS ANYBODY GOT ONE OF THESE PLASTIC VENTS THEY COULD SPARE ME? I AM HAPPY TO PAY FOT IT. I also need the striker for the indicator canceller that is missing from my steering column. If anyone could help with either of these items, that seem to now be NLA from MGB specialists, I would appreciate it. I was surprised when I fitted this plastic heater vent that only two original holes were in the panel it fits to as there are four holes in the plastic vent. Maybe this MGB was built on a Friday afternoon. This rubber boot for the gearstick was fun to fit! There was a very small hole in the rubber and a very large lump of metal gearstick to get it to go over. Lots of Vaseline on both the rubber and the gearstick did the trick, although I still had to pull the rubber boot down hard to get it to slide over the lump in the gearstick. I am pleased with the fit of the bonnet, but I did put a lot of effort into getting the wings in the correct place. I am not so happy with the fit of the boot lid. V8 Register MG Car Club 170114-V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Report-110 1
Unfortunately I forgot to check the fit before the body and panels were taken to Jaymic for spraying. I think there is a lesson to be learned from this for others. Before fitting the sender unit I checked the ohms resistance at the empty and full positions. This is the reading with the float position at the bottom of the petrol tank. This is the fuel sender unit complete with, fuel pick up pipe. I have removed the filter off the end of the fuel pick up pipe as I am going to use this as my fuel return to the tank from the fuel rail on the engine. This is the reading at the full position. Checking that the sender works with the fuel gauge. Reading with float lifted to full. V8 Register MG Car Club 170114-V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Report-110 2
differing thermal-expansion rates of the two metals. To work properly, the fuel level and coolant temperature gauges need to be used with an external Voltage Stabiliser. The gauges are designed to receive a constant supply voltage of 10 Volts and it's the job of the Voltage Stabiliser to provide it. These original stabilisers are a bit crude compared to what electronics can do nowadays. I am replacing, well I am not replacing, as I have not got an original voltage stabiliser, with the car. I am buying a modern electronic one that is actually cheaper than the original stabiliser at 11 on ebay including VAT and shipping. The photo above is the electronic version for classic cars. Reading on the gauge with the float position on empty. I was surprised that the gauges worked OK without the voltage stabiliser in the circuit. I expect that it was because the voltage was steady. The voltage was coming directly from the battery and not charged by the alternator when the engine is running. This is a standard voltage stabiliser that is normally fitted to the MGBs. Unlike modern gauges, the fuel level and temperature are thermal bimetallic devices. Their indicator needle is connected to a short beam constructed of two dissimilar metals. The beam is wrapped in resistance wire, which warms-up proportionally to the amount of electrical current passing through it. The gauge needle's position is determined by flexing of the beam due to the The fuel sender unit can now be fitted to the petrol tank, at last. Before fitting the rubber sealing ring, I coated it in rubber grease, to help it settle in place between the petrol tank and the locking plate. V8 Register MG Car Club 170114-V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Report-110 3
TRIAL FIT OF THE FRONT CROSSMEMBER & STEERING RACK Some time ago I had an email from a V8 Register member letting me know that he had problems with vague steering. When he checked he found that the four shouldered studs that are used to hold the subframe to the front chassis rails were not fitted tightly into their sockets. When he loosened the nuts on the underside and tightened the nuts on the top of the chassis rails, until the studs locked in position. He then retightened the lower nuts. The steering on his MGBGTV8 was transformed. I must admit that I had not even twigged that the studs had shoulders on until I inspected them after his email. I suggest you install the studs and the upper nuts first, before you try and fit the front crossmember to the body. The sender unit is easily locked in place using a screwdriver on two of the locking pegs. I thought I would need a hand fitting the front crossmember to the bodyshell, but I found with the help of the trolley jack I was able to raise the crossmember onto the studs and fit the polyurethane pads, square metal washers and lock nuts fairly easily. The fuel lines fitted, stainless steel clips tightened and the sender unit wire clipped in place with tie wraps. Looking at this photo, it shows the extra length of thread on the tank mounting bolts. These may come in very useful to mount an alloy heat shield for protecting the tank and copper fuel pipes from the radiant heat from the exhaust pipes. It s probably good news that I didn t do my normal job of cutting the bolts down to the correct length. V8 Register MG Car Club 170114-V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Report-110 4
After much huffing and puffing, I managed to fit the 2-1/4 internal diameter flexible fuel filler pipe, that I had purchased from Car Builders solutions. I could not use the original rubber connector, as the petrol tank has been move to the centre of the boot floor, so that the twin exhaust pipes will fit each side of the petrol tank. These are nuts that need to be tightened onto their shouldered studs before you try and fit the front crossmember. If you don t tighten these first you may suffer from vague steering as the subframe could move on heavy cornering. The area on the chassis rail on tour car will look different to this as I have moved my engine mountings to the top of the chassis rail instead of the original, which were brackets mounted on the side. This is the kit of parts for the Hoyle front suspension. I want to check and roughly fit one side, to decide where to mount the brackets for the join between the flexible brake pipe and the Kunifer brake pipe. These are the old lower wishbones that were fitted to the MGB when I purchased it. I need to use the inner pivot bars to support the tubular Hoyle lower suspension wishbones on the front crossmember. V8 Register MG Car Club 170114-V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Report-110 5
This is the original lower wishbone for the MGB that needs stripping down so that I can use the lower wishbone inner pivot with the Hoyle front suspension. Just the castle nuts on the inner pivot to undo now. This anti roll bar mount is Rose jointed. I don t think that is standard? Luckily for me the castle nuts did not have the split pins fitted. If it had, they would have probably been rusty and difficult to remove. V8 Register MG Car Club 170114-V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Report-110 6
TRIAL FIT OF THE HOYLE COILOVER FRONT SUSPENSION One of the original MGB inner wishbone pivots ready for cleaning. The inner wishbone pivots blasted and ready for the Kurust treatment. Normally, I wouldn t blast the ends where the bushes fit, but these did have some rust pits. I was considering skimming them in the lathe and making some oversize stainless steel oversize bushes to fit. I will wait and see how good a fit the Superflex polyurethane bushes with stainless steel inserts are before I make that decision. I bought these Superflex bushes from Jaymic (01263 768802). Cleaning out the threads on the top of the front crossmember, where the Hoyle top wishbone and the top coilover damper mounting fits. Hoyle supply high tensile socket headed cap screws to bolt these to the front crossmember. Before they start to go rusty again I treated them to a coat of Kurust. I also purchased some 3/8 UNF proper bolts, not set screws, to bolt them securely to the crossmember. You don t want these inner wishbone pivots to move when the suspension is under cornering loads. The top inner mount, for the location of the top of the coilover damper, and the upper wishbone arms, loosely bolted in position at this point in time, as the whole lot has got to come apart again for painting, Basically I want to know everything fits. The set of bushes needed for this are the same as the Superflex polyurethane bushes that are used on the bottom inner wishbone mounting. The Part Number is SF0012KSS. In all two sets of these are needed to fit the Hoyle coilover front suspension. As well as one set of top trunion bushes SF0282-2KSS. V8 Register MG Car Club 170114-V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Report-110 7
One thing I found annoying, with the Hoyle coilover front suspension kit, was that all the nuts and bolts were in one bag. The instructions only show two black and white photos of the Hoyle suspension, without the upright (stub axle) fitted. It would make life a lot easier if they had put the nuts and bolts for the various parts in separate polythene bags, as Frontline had, with their rear 5-link suspension system. Some better photos from Hoyle would also have made fitting the kit easier. After the top mounting is fitted to the front crossmember, two of the ½ washers that come with the kit are fitted to the top wishbone mounting; one each side. The Superflex lower, or upper, polyurethane wishbone bush kit. The bushes and their housing in the wishbone are coated with the polyurethane lubricant supplied with the bush kit. V8 Register MG Car Club 170114-V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Report-110 8
The polyurethane bushes push easily into the Hoyle wishbones with the slippery lubricant smeared on both surfaces. The stainless steel bush pushes easily into the two poly bushes if the outside is coated with the special lubricant. Check that you have the bushes the correct way round. The bushes go in easier than they come out, as I found out! The bush with the larger flange goes to the outside, on the top wishbone and the inside on the lower wishbone. Because you have a metal to metal contact between the stainless steel bush and the top wishbone mounting I have used grease between these joints. V8 Register MG Car Club 170114-V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Report-110 9
Each end of the poly bushes was wiped clean and then the special polyurethane lubricant wiped on where it will make contact with the washer that holds the wishbone in place with the ½ UNF Nylock nut The wishbone arm can now be fitted and the nut fitted but not tightened up at this stage. The same operation can now be done for the other seven wishbone arms. You can see in the photo that there is a scratch on the black coating to this wishbone arm. When the parcel arrived from Hoyle suspension it was damaged. I opened the parcel while the delivery driver was here and noticed the scratch, I didn t complain as I was thinking of giving the parts another coat of paint. I also coated the face of the washer that was going to mate with the poly bush. The top trunion bolt was given a coat of grease. To be continued in the next report. If you have any suggestions, comment, or tips I can pass on through these reports. You can email me at: mikemacartney@btconnect.com 14 th January 2017 V8 Register MG Car Club 170114-V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Report-110 10