Page 1 of 33 Welcome, goldeneye006 Notifications My Profile Settings Log Out Forum What's New? Home Classifieds Vendors Vendor Specials Store New Rules Posts Private Advertising Messages FAQ Calendar Community Forum Actions Quick Links Advanced Search Forum BMW Models 8 Series (E31) E31 Common Problems and DIY Fixes HowTo-> Interior Trim Fixes Results 1 to 2 of 2 Thread: HowTo-> Interior Trim Fixes Thread Tools Search Thread 01-14-2012, 07:57 PM 8Tech Member #1 Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 1,254 My Cars: BMW 850CSi, E53 X5 4.8iS Feedback Score: 0 HowTo-> Interior Trim Fixes As promised, here is another "How To" on the overhaul of the ashtray with the possibility of a repair, and how to remove and install the dash fascia, center console, MID/Radio/Heater control fascia and coin tray in the rear. Starting at the rear and working forward, to remove the small coin tray, using a small trim tool, or carefully with a thin screwdriver, prise the edge up of the insert... and when one side clips out, the tray can be lifted away.

Page 2 of 33 revealing a single self tapping screw that holds the back side of the surround down. The rear of the surround can be lifted up and forwards and the tray surround removed to reveal another 2 screws...

Page 3 of 33 Which when removed, allow the complete removal of the forward facing tray. To refit is simply a reversal of the procedure. It should be noted that to refit the surround, you need to locate the 2 lower tabs (position indicated)...

Page 4 of 33 under the trim and gently guide the forward facing tray into the recess in the surround. The coin tray then just presses in position after the rear screw has been refitted. Moving forward, we get to the handbrake lever and trim. To remove the gaiter, again use our trusty trim tool under the rear of the surround where shown... and swing the gaiter up and then slide the front back.

Page 5 of 33 The small trim piece ahead of it then slides backwards and then lifts at the rear. Here you can see the tabs that hold it in position at the front.

Page 6 of 33 Next we get to the center console and ashtray assembly which also incorporates the hazard warning light switch. Firstly, it will be noted that there are no visible fixings...

Page 7 of 33 however, hidden beneath a small section of soft trim which just lifts out, there are 2 small blanking plugs covering 2 screws... We now need to remove the ashtray. So, with the lid open, slide back the lever as shown to eject the inner tray...

Page 8 of 33 lifting it away to reveal a secret fixing screw.(removed as shown)

Page 9 of 33 We can now lift the rear of the tray... sufficiently to be able to unplug the hazard warning switch and the connectors to the lighter element and tray lighting.

Page 10 of 33 If we are now going to overhaul the ashtray lid mechanism, we now need to remove the ashtray from the console by removing the 4 screws retaining it. 2 at the front followed by 2 at the rear.

Page 11 of 33 So now jumping ahead a bit, with everything stripped, if you are going to get an operational lid, these are the parts you should have... Here you can see a mark on the inside of the plastic tray where the spring fits...

Page 12 of 33 Here you can see the guide pin and leaf spring from the other side... The torsion spring locates in this hole in the side of the tray lid...

Page 13 of 33 like this...with the coil around the pivot bushing... You can then do a preliminary (and deliberately incorrect) refit of the lid, hooking the spring in the wrong place as shown on the left, and loosely refitting the plastic pivot where shown on the right...

Page 14 of 33 Here is a better pic of where you need to incorrectly refit the spring.

Page 15 of 33 Here you can see the plastic hinge pivot previously mentioned, just partially refitted. Refitting as shown, allows a lot of movement to jiggle the lid around and align it without stressing any of the undoubtedly fragile plastic parts. Here you can see the pivot hole for the other end and the guide pin. As a side note, the small circuler part on the lower left is a rotary damper and the teeth of this as seen earlier, mesh with the teeth on the lid so it does not fly open uncontrollably. Carrying on, we now need to take advantage of the sloppiness in the lid and using a small implement, I am using a small pick here...

Page 16 of 33 We need to lever the pin into the guide channel in the side of the lid door. THIS IS WHERE YOU WILL BREAK SOMETHING IF YOU GET HEAVY HANDED!! 01-14-2012, 07:57 PM 8Tech Member #2 Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 1,254 My Cars: BMW 850CSi, E53 X5 4.8iS Feedback Score: 0 If successful, it will look like this. You now need to do 2 things at once, you need to offer-up the other plastic pivot in its approximate position (right) whilst unhooking the incorrectly refitted spring (left)...

Page 17 of 33 so that the spring drops down into its correct position as shown. You can then, with great difficulty, press the pivot at that end fully home until it seats in position, as seen here struggling with the tip of a small screwdriver.

Page 18 of 33 You can then fully refit the pivot the other end and test to see if your rebuilt ashtray lid works as designed. You can then refit the inner tray and check the eject mechanism operates...

Page 19 of 33 before refitting it with the 4 screws to the surround. Refitment is clearly the opposite procedure to removal. The only thing of note during refit is to check routing of the wiring under the ashtray so you do not end up screwing through a cable and the nylon connector for the lighter is pretty chunky and needs seating in the correct position so the console sits down flush with no strain. Moving across to the front now, we can find the "clocks" surround, complete with switches. To reduce the stress level whilst removing this, and assuming you have an adjustable steering column, you need to lower the adjustment as far as it will go and pull the steering wheel right back. There are just 2 screws retaining the surround at the top and these can be removed with either a stubby screwdriver...

Page 20 of 33 or a small screwdriver ratchet. With these removed, you need to pull the top of the fascia outwards...

Page 21 of 33 and then using your other hand to wiggle the lower edge, release the clips to get the surround free. There are 2 square nylon retaining clips at the outer edge to hold the panel back as shown in detail here...

Page 22 of 33 To completely remove the surround, I recommend you press the various switches from behind to pop them out of the fascia, then disconnect the multiplugs to them. Once all the switches are removed, the fascia will easily lift out of position giving access to the clocks. We now have the delightful task of removing that central display panel and these pics are obviously of a manual gearbox but the auto is similar. On the manual, pinch a good solid piece of leather and lift, detaching the clips retaining the gaiter in position.

Page 23 of 33 and then, turn the gaiter inside out and using a 2mm hex key, undo the 3 grub screws retaining your AC Schnitzer Quickshift knob from the Quickshift assembly. You can then remove the rear panel retaining screw...

Page 24 of 33 and getting your fingers in the area around the shifter, press out the switch panels... These can be disconnected to allow complete removal of the switches and panels. Note that the switches do not unplug as you may expect...

Page 25 of 33 and the initial impression may well be to pull out the yellow section from the black switch...bad IDEA!!! Now moving to the upper lip of the panel, remove the 2 screw covers to reveal the 2 upper mounting screws... and with these removed, the top of the panel will pull out and up...

Page 26 of 33 to release the lower back that slides under the center console. Now be prepared for an awful lot of wiring! Pushing back from behind, the MID can be released from the panel...

Page 27 of 33 and disconnected as shown. No amount of brute force will detach that connector without damage so you need to press in where shown in yellow, and then swing the clip round as shown in red. You should now hopefully be able to disconnect the radio wiring and turn the panel enought to disconnect the main heater connector as shown...

Page 28 of 33 followed by the smaller secondary connector. The heater control panel is mounted to the surround by 4 screws...

Page 29 of 33 Leaving you with a bit of wiring to tidy up!!

Page 30 of 33 I have mounted my radio with an M4 cap head screw that fits perfectly into the fascia surround to support the rear.

Page 31 of 33 Refitting is simply a reversal of removal, refitting the controls and displays... making sure everything sits nicely square before fully tightening.

Page 32 of 33 And thats it, I have run out of my pic allowance for now so I will do a quick post once its all back in, wiring tidied and everything tested. 8Tech. Quick Navigation E31 Common Problems and DIY Fixes Go Top «Previous Thread Next Thread» Bookmarks Digg del.icio.us Facebook Twitter Posting Permissions You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may edit your posts BB code is On Smilies are On [IMG] code is On [VIDEO] code is On HTML code is Off Forum Rules

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