Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20140227* 1937 Ford Coupe Street Rod 1:24 Scale Revell Model Kit #85-4097 Review The Ford line of cars was updated in 1937 with one major change, the introduction of an entry-level 136 CID (2.2 L) V8 in addition to the popular 221 CID (3.6 L) flathead V8. The model was a refresh of its predecessor, the Model 48, and was the company's main product. At the start of production, it cost $850. The 1937 Ford featured a more rounded look with fine horizontal bars in the convex front and hood-side grilles. The front grille was V-shaped, rather than following the fenders into a pentagon shape, as on the 1936 model. Faired-in headlights were a major modernization found on both the Standard and Deluxe trim versions, though much of the rest of the design was shared between Ford's two lines. A larger water pump was used to help aid in cooling. The Fat Fender design became one of the favorites for Hot Rodders to customize. For the Modeler: This review is based in the Revell # 85-4097 California Wheels version 1/24 scale 37 Ford Coupe Street Rod. This kit is Skill level 2 for intermediate builder and contains 128 parts. The kit is molded in White, Chrome and Clear and has Vinyl Tires with metal wheel pins. This kit has seen multiple box-arts over the years and is a Reissue (Re-Pop). The body is stamped Revell 1994 so it has been around at least 20 years. You get a nicely detailed small block V8 with either carb or fuel injection options. The chassis is simple and clean. You get 2 wheel choices for a Big-n-Little look or the oversized rims look. Two sets of very nice flame decals give you a design option. **Note** My kit was missing the Big-n-Little tires so on Jan 21st I went on the Revell Parts Order website http://www.revell.com/support/index.html and ordered the tires. On Feb 3rd I had replacements in my hand. That was a 13 day turn around on replacement parts, IMPRESSIVE! Overall dimensions of the finished build are: Length: 7-1/8", Width: 2-7/8", Height: 2-5/8".
BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure. One of the major benefits of using automotive paint is a very fast drying time. You can get just as good results using Spray can products but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured in less than an hour and clear about 6 hours. Use a good quality airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will destroy the cheaper ones quickly. ****NOTE**** Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice. Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. PIC 1 & PIC 2 Pic 1 shows the parts as they come from the box. Pic 2 shows the box art for this kit as released in the Revell 37 Ford Coupe Street Rod California Wheels version. Unless otherwise stated I use Testors Tube Glue (Orange Tube) for assembly of the parts. Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Testors Clear Parts Cement. Paints consist of Testors Enamel bottle paints unless noted and Rattle can spray paints. The body is finished using 1:1 automotive use paint products shot with an airbrush. **Note: Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use colors that most model builders should have on hand and compliment my build design. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion. Pic 3 is the decal sheet that comes with this kit version. These are typical Revell decals and float easy with a nice smooth transfer. I do not use setting solution on my builds and have no need with these decals. You get 2 Real Flame versions, some pinstripes brake details and interior details. There is a cool little T-Shirt decal too. You get 2 custom California plates. The plates are decals but typically you should cut the paper and glue them in place for a more realistic look.
***OPTIONAL IDEA*** PIC PB License Plates: I decided to do custom license plates and personalize this kit a little. You can go to http://www.acme.com/licensemaker/ and create any custom plate you want for any State. Also, you can search photos online for designer license plates. You can save the photo and resize it to fit a model. Just print it on photo paper and you have a plate of your own. To print your plate for 1/25 scale kit, open your photo program and crop the plate so you just have the plate only. Re-size the image size to make the Width.5 inches and make sure CONSTRAIN PROPORTIONS is on. Use 300 DPI for a crisp print. Save that and Print it on White Photo paper printing on High Quality Print Setting. You now have a proper sized plate to glue on your car. PIC 4A PIC 4B Pic 4A shows the motor parts needed to assemble the motor with the carb. Pic 4B shows the alternative fuel injection parts. I will build the Carb version. Pic 5 is the left side of the motor. Assemble the block halves, heads, intake and transmission pan. Paint the motor unit Blue and the transmission unit Silver. Detail the Distributor Black on the intake. Paint the starter Black with a Gold solenoid. Paint the carb Gold. Paint the air filter White with a Silver base. Paint the oil filter White. Paint the water pump Steel. Paint the AC unit Black with a Steel mount ring. Paint the belt unit Flat Black with Silver Alternator Pulley and Black remaining pulleys. Pic 6 is the right side of the motor. Attach the starter to the motor unit. Attach the oil filter in place. Attach the valve covers to the heads. Attach the carb to the intake and then the air filter to the carb and filter cover to that. Attach the water pump to the front of the motor. On the belt back side attach the AC and alternator then attach that unit to the motor.
PIC 7A & PIC 7B **NOTE**: For contest builders (or those who want to make a better build) the motor block/transmission is a 2 piece unit. There is a part line that runs the whole unit. You will need to fill and smooth this to make it not show. To simplify the build process I will show the parts for the chassis assembly and their paint callouts. As there are errors and choices read the steps closely and choose the parts you need. Follow the painting directions for all the steps and then we will assemble it as a unit. Pic 8 shows the frame and exhaust. Spray Paint Flat Black on the frame and cross members. Paint the gas tank Aluminum. Paint the exhaust Steel. **Note** The exhaust needs a little attention for mold line removal.
PIC 9 & PIC 10 Pic 9 is the front suspension parts. Paint the A-arms Black. Paint the spring mount Flat Black with Steel springs, see Pic 10. Paint the tie rod bar Silver with Flat Black boots. PIC 11 & PIC12 ***** NOTE - HUGE INSTRUCTION ERROR ***** The directions show to install a Drop Axle (Pic 11). But DO NOT install this! It is an error in the instructions and building process by Revell. Using the A-Arms you will install the front tires on Spindles instead see Pic 12. Paint the Spindles Black. *Note* Use the proper Spindles for your build choice of tires. Pic 13 shows the rear end parts. Assemble the axle and differential and paint that Black. Paint the sway bar Black. Paint the shocks Yellow. *Note* Use the proper Axle for your build choice of tires.
PIC 14 Chassis Assembly: On the frame rails attach the cross members. On the front of the frame attach the spring mount; because of the stability I used Superglue on this. On the spring mount attach the lower A- arms. Flip the unit over and attach the upper A-arms to the spring mount and spring. Attach the tie rod to the spring mount. Install the exhaust pipes into place. On the rear of the frame install the rear axle. Attach the sway bar to the axle and the shocks to the sway bar and frame. Pic 14 is the completed unit. The spindles will be installed with the front tire assembly, set them aside for now. Pic 15 shows the exhaust manifolds and driveshaft. These will be installed with the motor into the chassis assembly. Paint the manifolds Steel with Flat Black gaskets. Paint the driveshaft Gray with Flat Black yolks. Slide the driveshaft into the differential and then into the transmission. Glue the motor assembly in place; the transmission is slid into the frame rails and fits in-between the cross members. Attach the manifolds to each head and line up to the exhaust pipes. **Note** Typical mold lines need cleaned up on the driveshaft and manifolds. Pic 16 is the radiator assembly. If you used the fuel injection use the chrome parts. If you used the carb use the other parts. Paint the radiator Flat Black. Paint the fan Black. Paint the radiator top Black. Paint the hose Flat Black with silver straps at each end. Attach the top to the radiator. Attach the hose to the top and install the radiator. Line up the hose to the intake. Pic 17 is a completed shot of the chassis assembly with the motor installed.
Pic 18A & 18B show the wheel and tire options. To use the Big n Little tires as I did use the parts in Pic 18A. Paint the rim backs Flat Black with a Silver rim. To create a more natural used tire look use a sheet of 220grit sandpaper. Press and roll the tire giving a worn look. Assemble the tires by inserting the proper rim in the tire. On the back side insert the rim back. On the front tires snap the spindle into the hole. For the back tires snap them on the axle. The Big N Little s are not directional but note proper size when installing. The front end can have a slightly lower look by installing the spindles a certain way. See Pic 19 for the callout of how to fix the ride height. Once you choose which way to install the wheels use Superglue and attach the spindles on to the A-arms. Pic 20 is a finished shot of the rims and tires ready to install. PIC 21 & PIC 22 Pic 21 is the finished front suspension. Pic 22 is the finished rear suspension.
Pic 23 is a rolling chassis shot. Pic 24 the bumpers and mounts. Depending on your build you can omit them as I have. Pic 25 and Pic 26 show the notches in the body front and rear that you must cut out if you choose to use the bumpers. Pic 27 & PIC 28 Pic 27 is the main body parts that will be used. Pic 28 shows the additional body parts that need to be used. As seen you can choose smooth steps or ribbed steps. I chose the ribbed steps for my build. Also the hood sides are separate units that you can choose to use or not. I will build my hot rod without side panels so the motor can be seen. I painted my steps Spray Flat Black.
Pic 29 & 30 show mold lines on the body that need removed. I scraped them with a razor blade and sanded the area smooth. PIC 31 On the underside of the fender unit is a Trademark. Scrape this off and smooth it. PIC 32 PIC 33 Pic 32 shows the tail lights. Pic 33 shows them installed. As these are small parts and installing them now will not interfere with the building it is good to do it. This will also limit the chance of damage later as you try to install them on the finished paint. PIC 34 & PIC 35 The inner fenders get painted Body color too. Pic 34 is a shot of the fenders. Pic 35 shows the fenders installed and ready to paint.
Prepare the body and all parts that go Body color for Primer. Water sand the parts with 1000 grit sand paper and let them dry fully. Prime all parts inside and out. After the Primer dries water sand again and then paint the parts your choice of Body Color, Decal as you choose then Clear Coat. Body Decaling and Finishing: After you have your base coat on the car you are ready to decal it. Remember decals lay better on a GLOSS surface and will not adhere properly on a FLAT surface. If you decal a flat surface you get what is called SILVERING of the decals, or the look that they are not adhered, as air is trapped under the decal. Clean your work area good so no dust or grunge from building and sanding gets under your decals. Pick the decals you want to work with and plan out how the best way to lay them out without handling previously laid decals will be. I try either a Front to Back or Top to Bottom approach doing one side at a time then the front and rear of the car in steps giving the decals time to set and dry in place before handling it again. Once you have a plan of action cut your first decal as close to the edge of the outermost color as possible. Once trimmed place the decal into warm water and let it get soft until it Floats loosely on the carrier paper. Put a little water on the spot of the car you want to transfer the decal on to and carefully float the decal off the carrier paper onto the car. Using tweezers and a Q-tip position the decal in to place where it will be located when finished. Now with a small part of paper towel carefully extract the water from the area by lightly dabbing around the decal and then on top of the decal. Using a moist paper towel and or moist Q-tip you can smooth out and air bubbles and wrinkles from the center of the decal out to the edges. Now continue this process until all the decals for that area are done, wait for them to set and continue the rest of the car. PIC 36 To prepare the interior paint the floor Flat Black. The interior of the body should be painted to match the interior color (See Pic 36). On the interior roof there are 4 injection tabs, these should be removed for a better finish and Contest Builds.
PIC 38 Note the call-outs for decal location on the instrument panel. The Dash will be painted interior color. Detail the dash with Silver knobs and glove box handle. Pic 38 shows a close up of the completed dash. To assemble slide the instrument panel into the hole from the back. PIC 39 PIC 40 Pic 39 is a shot of all the parts needed to complete the interior. Assemble the seat bottom to the seat. Paint the seat, door panels, dash, steering column and rear deck interior color. Paint the pedals Black. Paint the steering wheel Black with Silver spokes. Paint the radio Black. Detail the door panels with Silver handles and window switches. Detail the steering column stalks Silver with Black grips. In Pic 40 note the mold lines that need removed on the seat. If you decide to use the decals for the interior apply as per directions, Note Pic 42 & 43 for final decal placements. Pic 41 shows the glass. There are 2 sets, for some reason, use the ones noted and set the other aside.
Pic 42 and 43 are overall shots of the finished interior. Assembly: Install the seat in place on the floor. Install the steps to the body now also. Inside the firewall install the pedals. Install the door panels. Using Clear parts cement install all the glass now. On the dash install the steering column and wheel. Install the dash into the body. Install the radio on to the interior roof of the body. Install the rear deck panel to the back of the door panels. PIC 44 ***OPTIONAL IDEA*** As people buy custom floor mats for their real cars why not have ones for their models? This idea is FREE to do and easy. Search the internet for car floor mats; use the pictures of the flat mat display and save it. In your photo program resize the front mat to a height of ¾ inches tall. The rear floor mat will be sized as to the available space in your model mine were roughly ¼ inches tall. Print them at 300 DPI on plain paper. Glue the paper to Black card stock and cut out the mat. A dab of White Glue on the floor will hold them in place. I did a search and found tons of usable images from all kind of sites. GOOGLE can be your friend! Pic 44 is the design I chose. See Pic 42 for the installed look as I had to cut them to fit the floorboard. PIC 45 & PIC 46 Pic 45 shows the master cylinder and ignition box. These are Chrome and can be painted to be more natural but I left them as is because it is a Hot Rod. I did paint the master cylinder cover Gold. Pic 46 shows the parts installed. Assemble the booster and master cylinder by sliding the master cylinder into the booster hole than attach that to the firewall. Attach the ignition box to the firewall.
PIC 47 Once the interior is installed and all the parts have had time to dry and are secure you can place the body onto the fenders. When lined up properly the body will be flush on the sides and to the steps. See Pic 47 for a close up view. PIC 48 Install the chassis on to the body now. Pic 48 shows the finished assembly. Pic 49 shows the completed engine bay.
PIC 50 & PIC 51 **OPTIONAL** The instructions do not show any door handles or hood ornament. But the parts in the kit include these. So I decided to add them to my build. Pic 50 is a shot of the optional parts. Pic 51 shows them installed. Use Superglue for these. Attach a door handle to each door. Attach the trunk latch. Attach the hood ornament. There are no positive attachment points as these are not meant to be used on this version. Use your judgment to locate them. PIC 52 & PIC 53 Pic 52 is a shot of the front end parts to finish the build. Pic 53 is a finished shot of the front end. Use a 50/50 mix of Flat Black and thinner to make a wash and fill the grille area with it leaving the raised areas chrome. Attach the grille to the front end. Use Clear Parts Cement and insert the lenses into the headlight buckets, attach those in place on the fenders. Attach the wipers to the holes in the roof. Attach the mirrors to the holes on each door.
PIC 54 & PIC 55 Pic 54 is a shot of the remaining rear end parts. Paint the tail lights Stop Light Red and install on the rear lights. Paint the tag holder Flat Black and attach it in place. Cut out the tag and glue it to the tag holder. Pic 55 is a shot of the finished rear end. PIC XX1 Depending on HOW you did your assembly compared to the review is what remaining parts you will have. Pic XX1 is a shot of what I have left for parts. The Next Level: With some aftermarket add-ons this build will really stand out. And I do not mean the high end Resin parts or Photo-etched parts; I am talking about the simple things that just make a good kit BETTER! Starting under the hood with a simple wired distributor replacement you can wire the plugs and
coil. Fuel lines can be run from the fuel pump to the tank. A single bare silver wire run along the frame could easily be added to the fuel tank and up to the fuel pump on the motor. Same with brake lines, the master cylinder is there just run wires. As for the interior, carpet can be made with flocking in most any color needed. There are websites you can go and download free scale accessories from maps to pizza boxes to add to the car s interior. And if the decal sheet does not have enough choices custom decals are readily available and inexpensive for almost anything you want. With very little extra money and just a small bit of effort you can make a contest winner out of this kit very easily. Overall Impressions: Other than the glaring front suspension error the instructions are pretty straight forward. Assembly is simple and the build is solid when completed. The motor looks nice finished but with all the really good quality motors Revell has in other kits this one could be replaced for a better one as it is a bit simplistic. For a 20 year old kit the fit and finish are good and the overall build looks nice. The decals were nice on this kit and for their size you still do not need setting solution which is a plus. Overall this was a fun build. The front suspension issue will definitely confuse a beginning builder but otherwise they should be able to get it done. On a scale of 1 to 10 I d give this kit a 7.5. The instructions snafu and the simplicity of the motor got me. Given the chance I might build this again BUT I would be hitting the aftermarket and parts bin to kick it up a notch! NOW, GO BUILD IT!