Simple Vehicle Maintenance By Dale O. Ritzel Director Emeritus, Safety Center Southern Illinois University Carbondale, IL 62901-6731 6731
How to Check your Oil You don't have to feel like a dipstick when you go to check your oil; here's how to do it like a pro. Check the oil when the engine is warm. Oil expands when it's hot and contracts when it's cold; different temperatures will give you different readings. Park the car on a level surface. Turn off the engine. Pull the hood release lever under the dashboard. Walk around the front of the car, reach under the hood, find the latch and squeeze it. As you squeeze the latch, open the hood. 1.
How to Check your Oil Find the dipstick, a long piece of metal sticking out of the engine with a loop at one end, usually located near the spark plugs. Pull on the loop and draw the dipstick all the way out. Wipe the oil off the dipstick with a paper towel or shop rag. Replace the clean dipstick, making sure to push it all the way in, then pull it back out and hold it horizontally in front of you.
How to Check your Oil Look at the pointy end of the dipstick. If the oil on the dipstick is below the line marked "full," add a small amount of oil (less than a quarter of a quart) with a funnel. Many dipsticks simply have two lines with a cross hatch design in between. The oil level should be halfway between these two lines. Add the oil by unscrewing the oil filler cap, which is about 3 inches in diameter and located on the very top of the engine. Check the oil level with the dipstick after adding oil. Add more if necessary. It's easier to add more oil but fairly difficult to remove oil if you add too much. Put the oil filler cap back on and secure it tightly.
How to Check your Oil Tips: Your owner's manual will tell you what type of motor oil your engine requires. If you're in a pinch or you only need to add a little, it's OK to mix types - for example, 10w-40 with 10w-30. Always keep two quarts of oil in your car. The oil lubricating system is a closed system: The oil does not get used up or go anywhere. If it's consistently low, there may be an oil leak. Leaks always get worse, and losing all the engine oil will require expensive repairs and/or replacing the engine.
How to Change your Motor Oil Plan to change your motor oil every 3,000 miles or every 3 months. However, you may want to do it more often if you've been driving in very hot and/or dusty conditions.
How to Change your Motor Oil Getting Ready Steps: Gather necessary tools and materials. If you plan to change your oil regularly, consider investing in jack stands, a socket set and an oil drain pan. Run the car's engine for 10 minutes before you drain the oil. Warm oil drains faster than cold oil. Park the car on a level surface, engage the parking brake and turn off the engine. If your car has a low clearance, raise it by driving it onto a ramp or by jacking it up and supporting it securely. Open the hood and place the new oil and funnel on top of the engine to ensure that you won't forget to add oil afterwards (an expensive mistake that many do-it it- yourselfers make!).
How to Change your Motor Oil Tips: Consult your owner's manual or an automotive parts specialist to find out the weight of oil and type of oil filter your car needs. You'll need the year, make, model and mileage of your car if you go to an auto parts store. Warnings: Make sure the car is securely supported before you crawl underneath. You will need two jack stands to support the front of your car after jacking it up. Never get under a car that is supported only by a jack! A pair of jack stands costs less than $20.
How to Change your Motor Oil Draining the Oil and Changing the Oil Filter Steps: Crawl under the car once it is securely supported. Locate the oil drain plug on the underside of the engine, usually near the front center of the car. Consult your owner's manual for the exact location. Place the oil drain pan under the plug and loosen the plug with a socket wrench. Remember: turn counterclockwise to remove bolts. Remove the plug by hand. Be prepared for the rush of hot oil! Let the oil drain into the pan. Hold onto the plug.
How to Change your Motor Oil Draining the Oil and Changing the Oil Filter Steps: Reposition the pan, if necessary, to catch all the dripping oil. Wipe off the drain plug and the plug opening when the oil finishes draining. Replace the drain plug gasket. Reinstall the plug. Always start threading any bolts or screws by hand to prevent cross threading. Tighten with a wrench or socket. Be careful not to over tighten the plug. Locate the existing oil filter. Oil filters are usually on the side of the engine.
How to Change your Motor Oil Draining the Oil and Changing the Oil Filter Steps: Position the oil pan underneath the filter to catch any remaining oil. Use an adjustable oil filter wrench to unscrew the old oil filter. Use a rag to wipe the area where the filter mounts to the engine. Make sure the rubber seal of the old filter is not stuck to the engine. Use some new oil to lightly coat the rubber seal of the new filter. Screw the new filter into place by hand. It's usually not necessary to tighten the oil filter with the oil filter wrench, but have it at the ready if you're grip's not strong (or large) enough.
How to Change your Motor Oil Tips: Wear gloves to remove the plug if it's hot. It's always best to replace the oil drain plug gasket. Use the right size wrench or socket. Don't use an adjustable wrench: you can strip the bolt. Warnings: Handle hot automotive oil with extreme care. Be careful when removing the old oil filter. It's full of oil.
How to Change your Motor Oil Installing New Oil and Cleaning Up Steps: Locate the oil filler cap on top of the engine. Remove it. Place the funnel in the opening and pour in the new oil. Typically, you will use 4 to 5 quarts of oil. Check your manual for the correct oil capacity. Replace the cap when you're finished. Run the engine for a minute, then check the dipstick. Add more oil if necessary.
How to Change your Motor Oil Installing New Oil and Cleaning Up Steps: Check the area around the oil drain plug and the filter for oil leaks. Tighten the plug or oil filter if you find leakage. Use rags and newspapers to wipe away excess oil. Pour the used oil into a plastic container after the used oil cools. Dispose the used oil properly: either bring it to a recycling center or an auto repair shop that can recycle it for you. Don't pour it down the sewer!
How to Change your Motor Oil Tips: Record the date and mileage after you change the oil so you will know when your car is due for another oil change. It helps to put a small sticker on your windshield to remind you. Warnings: Handle hot motor oil with extreme caution. Only dispose of used motor oil and filters at authorized locations.
How to Check Brake Fluid Check the brake fluid when you check all the other fluids. It's easy to do and only takes a minute.
How to Check Brake Fluid Steps: Find the brake master cylinder. This is usually located under the hood on the driver's side of the car, toward the back of the engine compartment. Imagine where your brake pedal would end up if it went all the way through to the engine. The brake master cylinder is a small (about 6 by 2 inches), rectangular piece of metal with a plastic reservoir and a rubber cap on top, and small metal tubes leading from it. Check your manual if you aren't sure that you've found the master cylinder. The rubber cap will usually read 'Use only DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid from a sealed container.'
How to Check Brake Fluid Note that on most newer-model cars the reservoir is translucent and you can see the fluid level without removing the cap. There will be a 'Full' line the brake fluid should be at this line. In older cars (pre-1980) the brake master cylinder reservoir may be made entirely of metal so that you must take the top off to check the fluid level. The top is held on by a metal clamp. Use a screwdriver to pop off the clamp and lift the lid. Add brake fluid to the Full line. Use the correct brake fluid for your car: Check the rubber cap and your owner's manual to find out what grade of brake fluid your car requires. Most cars use DOT (Department of Transportation) 3 or 4. If the reservoir has two parts, fill both halves.
How to Check Brake Fluid Tips: If the brake master cylinder is empty, the brake pedal will go to the floor. If this is the case, you will have to bleed the brakes in addition to adding fluid: Time to see your mechanic, who will flush and refill the braking system. Warnings: Brake fluid is very toxic. Keep it away from hands and eyes, and avoid spilling it on the ground. Dispose of empty containers carefully. Be especially careful not to spill brake fluid on your car's paint. Wash your hands well after handling brake fluid. Don't drive a car that has run out of brake fluid until bleeding the brakes.
How to Check Power Steering Fluid Checking power steering fluid on most cars is easy, though not all cars have it: if you can parallel park with one hand and eat an ice cream cone with the other, then you have power steering.
How to Check Power Steering Fluid Steps: Find the hood release, usually located beneath the dash. Pull. Walk around the front of the car. Find the hood latch. The hood latch is usually located at the front edge of the hood. Depress the latch. While depressing the latch, lift and open the hood. Locate the belts. The power steering pump is driven by a pulley and a belt and has a clear plastic or metal (usually round) reservoir on top if it. The power steering cap will often say "power steering."
How to Check Power Steering Fluid Check the fluid level either by looking at the side of the reservoir (if you have the clear plastic type) or by unscrewing the cap (for the metal type). Some reservoirs may have a small dipstick attached to the cap. Typically, you have a choice between checking the fluid warm or cold, and there will be corresponding "Hot" and "Cold" levels. Add fluid if necessary. Use only the proper type of power steering fluid for your car. Check the owner's manual and the bottle. Some cars require power steering fluid specifically for your make of car.
How to Check Power Steering Fluid Tips: Check the fluid level and the power steering belt if you hear a squeal when you turn the wheel all the way to one side. Take the car into a mechanic if the steering is stiff. Keep in mind that although drifting or shuddering may signal problems with the steering system, these symptoms may also relate to the car's tires, suspension, brakes or other front-end problems. Warnings: Power steering fluid does not get "used up" - other than a leak, there's no reason that the fluid should be low. Fill the reservoir to the proper level and check frequently if you y find it low. If it continues to be low, check for leaks and go see your mechanic. An empty power steering pump can be damaged very quickly and is costly to replace.
How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Check your car's automatic transmission fluid (ATF) every month and whenever the transmission isn't shifting smoothly.
Steps: How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Park your car on level ground and start the engine, leaving the gear in neutral or park. Wait for the engine to warm up. Unless your owner's manual directs otherwise, allow the engine to continue running throughout this procedure. Find the ATF dipstick, located at the back of the engine. The ATF dipstick is often shorter than the engine oil dipstick but otherwise looks similar. If you're lucky, it will be labeled. Pull on the dipstick and completely remove it. It may be very long. Wipe the dipstick with a rag, replace it in the engine, push it all the way in and remove it again.
How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Look at the dipstick's tip. Observe whether there are two different full markings: one for cold readings and one for warm readings. If so, read the one for 'Warm.' If the ATF does not come up to the line marked 'Full,' add ATF. Add ATF (see Tips) into the hole that the dipstick came out of (yes, that little tiny hole). Use a funnel with a long, narrow neck. Add only a little at a time, and check the level with the dipstick after each time. It's easy to add ATF but fairly difficult to take it out if you add too much. Put the dipstick all the way back in when you are done.
How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Tips: There are two types of ATF: Dexron (also called Mercron) ) and Type F; your owner's manual should list the type to use. With some cars the engine should not be running while you check the fluid, so be sure to consult your owner's manual. Warnings: ATF doesn't get used up, so if it's low, that indicates a leak. Don't ignore leaks or drive around with low ATF, it can lead to expensive transmission repairs. Tips from Users: Siphoning overfilled transmission "Important warning! Do not overfill! Filling above the full line causes the fluid to foam. Also, excessive pressure buildup may damage the transmission. If you overfilled, get a thin hose and the gun from a squirt bottle. Insert it in and siphon excess fluid out." We used an aquarium air hose and a squirt bottle top, and it worked like a charm!
How to Check and Add Coolant Coolant doesn't get used up during a car's normal operation. If the coolant level is consistently low, your car has a coolant leak. Your mechanic can pressure-check the cooling system to find any leaks. A small hole in a radiator hose or a loose clamp could end up costing hundreds or even thousands of dollars if the coolant leaks out and the engine overheats.
How to Check and Add Coolant Steps: Find the coolant reservoir. Follow the hose that comes from the top of the radiator cap-- --it will lead to the coolant reservoir. It is usually a clear plastic tank with full and low indicators on the outside (see illustration). Open the cap and add coolant to the coolant reservoir, using a funnel to avoid spilling. Coolant is a mixture of half antifreeze and half water. In a pinch it is OK to add only water or only antifreeze. (On some cars, it is difficult to see the full line on the coolant reservoir. Bounce the car up and down while looking to see how full the reservoir is.)
How to Check and Add Coolant Put the cap back on the coolant reservoir. Add coolant to the radiator as well if the reservoir was completely empty. Make sure the engine is completely cool before opening the radiator cap. Some older cars don't have a coolant reservoir; in that case, add the coolant directly to the radiator.
How to Check and Add Coolant Overall Warnings: Never open a radiator cap on a hot engine. The radiator is pressurized and the coolant could spurt out and scald you. Some German cars have pressurized coolant reservoirs. Wait for the engine to cool down before opening the cap to add coolant. Do not leave coolant out where children or pets can get to it. It has a sweet smell but is very toxic.
Cleaning a Car Battery What You Need Baking Soda and Stiff Brush Rubber Gloves Wrench to Fit Cable Clamp Wrench to Remove Battery Waterproof Grease
Cleaning a Car Battery After loosening the cable clamps and battery holder, remove the battery from vehicle. Begin by cleaning the entire battery top of dirt and oxidation using baking soda and water. While battery is out, clean the cable clamps until shiny with #535 brass brush. Re-install battery in vehicle. Re-attach clamps and cover the connection with grease.
How to Check Belts A broken belt is painful to the wallet; get in the habit of scoping yours out from time to time, and have all the belts changed at 60,000 miles. There should be no extra labor charge if you ask your mechanic to change them when the timing belt is replaced at 60,000 miles.
How to Check Belts Steps: Turn off the engine. Pull the hood release lever under the dashboard. Walk around to the front of the car, reach under the hood, find the latch and squeeze it. As you squeeze the latch, open the hood. Find the belts located on the very front of the engine. On a front-wheel wheel-drive car, the front of the engine is usually adjacent to the fender; on a rear-wheel wheel-drive car, the front of the engine is adjacent to the radiator and the front bumper.
How to Check Belts Note that there will be two or more belts, depending on the car. Belts are used to operate the fan, water pump, alternator, air conditioner, power steering pump and smog pump. Press lightly with your thumb on each belt at the belt's longest part between pulleys. Check the appropriate tension for your belts in your car's manual. Belts should not have more than 1 inch of "give" in either direction. Observe the belt as you press on it. If it's cracked or can be easily pushed more than 1 inch, it most likely needs to be replaced.
Tips: How to Check Belts Let the engine cool before checking the belts, and be careful around hot engine parts. Some belts run more smoothly after being sprayed with "belt dressing." If your belts make a horrible shrieking sound when you press on the gas pedal, they are too loose, and probably need to be tightened or replaced.
How to Check Belts Tips from Users: Some cars have electric fans that come on after the engine has stopped, even when the key is not in the ignition! Keep your hands clear of the blades or disconnect the negative battery cable. An increasing number of new vehicles are equipped with one belt which runs all the accessories' pulleys and has a spring loaded self adjuster. They don't need adjusting for the life of the belt. These belts sometimes have grooves running across the inside face of the belt so it will flex better and create less noise. These grooves can easily be mistaken for wear cracks so be sure the belt NEEDS to be replaced.
How to Check Radiator Hoses Old radiator hoses or loose clamps can cause a coolant leak, which will lead to overheating and expensive repairs. Check hoses periodically and replace them if they're aged or leaking.
How to Check Radiator Hoses Steps: Find the hood release, usually located beneath the dash. Pull. Walk around the front of the car. Find the hood latch. The hood latch is usually located at the front edge of the hood. Depress the latch. While depressing the latch, lift and open the hood. Locate the radiator. It's always at the front of the car. Locate the radiator hoses. Two hoses should be attached to the radiator: an upper hose at the top and a lower hose at the bottom.
How to Check Radiator Hoses With the engine cold, squeeze each hose. If the hose feels "crunchy" or brittle, it's old and needs replacing. Check the clamps at either end of both hoses. If the hose is damp or wet at the clamp, tighten or replace the clamp. The clamps should be tight enough that the hose cannot be turned or moved. Check the hose for cracks, tears, or frayed ends. If you find any, replace the hose. Close the hood.
How to Jump Start a Car Knowing how to jump-start a car with a dead battery can keep an inconvenience from becoming a crisis. If you are unsure about how to use jumper cables, ask for help.
How to Jump Start a Car Steps: Read your owner's manual, as it will describe any peculiarities involved in jump- starting your vehicle. Pull a car with a charged battery next to the car with the dead battery, situating the two batteries as close together as you can without allowing the two cars to touch. Turn off both engines, pull out the keys, put both cars in park (or in first gear if they have stick shifts), engage the emergency brakes and open the hoods.
How to Jump Start a Car Attach a red-handled/positive jumper cable clamp to the positive terminal (the one with the plus sign) of the charged battery. Connect the other red-handled clamp to the positive terminal of the dead battery. Attach the neighboring black/negative cable to the car with the dead battery. Clamp it somewhere where the current can ground out, such as a bolt or bracket on the engine. You can also attach it to any metal, unpainted part of the vehicle's frame. Ground the other black/negative cable on the charging car, as described in the previous step. Be careful, as a small spark may be produced.
How to Jump Start a Car Attempt to start the car that has the dead battery. Re-adjust the red/positive clamp on the dead car if there is no response; try reclamping it to the terminal or turning it for a better connection. Keep trying to start the dead car. Once the dead car is running, remove the clamps one at a time in reverse order. Allow the jump-started car to run for half an hour in order to charge the battery. It will charge whether driving or idling.
How to Jump Start a Car Tips: Always check your owners manual before jump- starting a car. Some new cars have special 'jump-start lugs' where jumper cables are attached rather than to the battery cables. These allow the potentially damaging surge of current to bypass the electrical system (and all those fancy, new onboard computers). If the dead car won't respond, there might be a problem in another part of the ignition system. Consult a mechanic. After you jump-start a dead car, run the engine for half an hour to charge the battery.
How to Jump Start a Car Warnings: Avoid starting or running the charged car while jump- starting the dead one. This is a common mistake in jump- starting cars. This can release a power surge into the charging car and blow a fuse, damage the alternator, or harm other areas of the electrical system. Many early British cars, such as Jaguars and MGs,, use a positive ground instead of the popular negative ground. Consult a mechanic if you're in doubt about how to jump- start your particular car. The voltage from a car battery is dangerous whether the engine is running or not. Do not touch the metal ends of the jumper cables with your hands, nor touch them to each other. Never grasp both battery terminals at the same time.
How to Jump Start a Car Tips from Users: Never use a lighter or match while handling jumper cables! There are explosive gases released by the battery. Make sure your clamps aren't on backward. Otherwise, when you hit the ignition, the reverse voltage will fry the diodes in your alternator, and you'll be out about $100.
How to Maintain and Extend the Life of your Car s s Tires Driving with worn tires increases the chance of getting a flat tire or a dangerous blowout. Good tire maintenance will extend the life of your tires, which will save you money. Follow these steps to extend the life of your tires.
How to Maintain and Extend the Life of your Car s s Tires Steps: Check the tire pressure on all four tires at least once a month. Don't over inflate. The recommended tire pressure is stamped on the side of the tire as well as on a sticker on the driver's side e door jamb - 32 pounds per square inch (PSI) is a good rule of thumb. Have your car aligned if you notice that it drifts in one direction ion when driving on a straight road. Get an alignment after any accident, even a small fender bender. Have the wheels balanced if you notice a consistent vibration or shimmy at certain speeds. For example, a vibration in the steering wheel that occurs only at 60 mph and goes away if you drive faster or slower indicates that the wheels need balancing. Understand that bad shock absorbers or struts will cause the tires to wear unevenly. Tips: Most people need to purchase new tires every four or five years, depending on their driving habits. If you are unsure whether you need new tires, ask for an opinion at a repair shop that does not sell tires!
How to Interpret Tire Wear Tire wear can tell you what's going on with your car's steering, suspension and tire pressure. Regular checks can also help you prevent flat tires or a dangerous blowout.
How to Interpret Tire Wear Steps: Check your tires outdoors where the lighting is good. Visually inspect all four tires. Remember that under normal driving conditions, all four tires should wear evenly. Check for even tread wear by using a tread-depth depth gauge, which costs less than $20. The depth of the tread (the grooves in the tire) should be even on all parts of the tire. Another way to check for tire wear (although not as accurate) is to stick a penny into the grooves, with Lincoln's head pointing into the tire. If you can see the top of his head, it's time to buy new tires. Let some air out of your tires if there is wear down the middle and not on the sides. It means there's too much air in them.
How to Interpret Tire Wear Add air to tires with wear on both the inside and outside edges, which means there's not enough air in them. Bring your car to an alignment shop for a front-end or four- wheel alignment if your tires are worn on one side or the other. Run your hand lightly over the tread surface of each tire. If the treads feel bumpy or scalloped, even if the tread is still deep, you may need new shock absorbers or struts. (Some cars have shocks, some have struts and some have a combination struts in front, shocks in back.) Check the tire pressure in all four tires and the spare tire at least once a month. The recommended tire pressure is listed in your vehicle's manual, stamped on the side of the tire, and often printed on a sticker on the driver's-side side doorjamb. When in doubt, 32 pounds per square inch (psi) is a good average until other sources can be consulted.
How to Interpret Tire Wear Tips: On average, tires need to be replaced every 40,000 miles, but the exact mileage depends on the type of tire and car and what kind of driving you do. Have an automotive professional examine your tires if you're not sure they need replacing. For an unbiased opinion, consider getting this done at a shop that does not sell tires. Get a front-end or four-wheel alignment if you are in an accident, even just a fender bender. If anything is out of alignment, it will affect your tires' wear. Warnings: Driving on tires that are bald or badly worn greatly increases your chance of getting a flat or a blowout and is especially dangerous when the roads are wet or slick. Don't put off buying new tires when you need them, your safety is at stake!
How to Interpret Tire Wear Tips from Users: If you live in a climate where you get any snow, I suggest that you buy four winter tires. Not only will snow tires give you the greatest traction in snow and ice, but they will also help you to prolong the life of your "All Season" tires. The reason is that you will always be rotating between your winter tires and your "All Season" tires. Correct tire size can be critical in vehicles with an ABS (antilock brake system)! Mixing tire sizes can make an ABS activate prematurely.
How to Replace an Electrical Fuse in A Car Fuses protect all the electrical devices in your car: In case of a power surge, a fuse will "blow" so that the extra electricity doesn't reach the device. Replacing a fuse is easy, and you'll feel good diagnosing and fixing something yourself.
How to Replace an Electrical Fuse in A Car Steps: Turn off the car before beginning work. Look under your car's dashboard, just below the driver's left knee. Find the fuse box. It's usually a small square or rectangular plastic box. There will be a cover that pops open, with perhaps a tab keeping it closed. It can be opened without any tools. Many cars have a second fuse box inside the engine compartment. If the fuse you're looking to replace isn't in the fuse box inside the car, check for a second fuse box.
How to Replace an Electrical Fuse in A Car Remove the cover from the fuse box. The cover should contain a chart telling what each fuse controls, or there may be a clear plastic cover over the fuses that gives this information. Find the blown fuse. It will look like the filament in a burned-out lightbulb - the metal strip will be broken and the fuse may look a little blackened. Grasp the burned-out fuse on either side with your thumb and forefinger, and pop it out with a small pinching motion. Most cars have a small, plastic "fuse remover" in one of the slots. If it hasn't already been lost, you can use this to remove the fuse, or even a small screwdriver if you can't get it out with your fingers.
How to Replace an Electrical Fuse in A Car Take the fuse to a hardware or auto parts store. Get an identical replacement. Replace the fuse by seating it in the slot from which you removed the burned-out one and pressing firmly with your thumb. It should snap into place. Start the car and test the feature that had burned out - the headlights, the fan or the interior lights, for example. Replace the fuse box cover.
How to Replace an Electrical Fuse in A Car Tips: Many cars have a few slots for extra fuses - just be sure to use the right amperage (there will be a little number in the fuse indicating amps). There are three types of fuses: cylindrical glass fuses with metal ends; square plastic fuses with two metal prongs; and cylindrical plastic fuses with no covering over the filament. All of the fuses in your car will use one of these three types. Once you know which type your car uses, it's not a bad idea to buy b a box of assorted fuses, of various amperages, to keep in the glove box. If you replace the fuse and it keeps blowing, there may be an electrical short somewhere. Make an appointment to see your mechanic. Warnings: Don't replace burned-out fuses with new fuses of different ratings (that is, don't use a 15-amp fuse to replace a 10-amp fuse). On older cars, fuses may crack when removed. Be careful not to cut yourself on old fuses.