Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20150112* Ferrari Superamerica 1:24 Scale Revell Model Kit #85-2034 Review The history of the Ferrari Superamerica dates back to 1956-1961 when this unique convertible first made it appearance. Like its predecessor the new Ferrari Superamerica is a very unusual convertible. Produced in 2005 as a limited edition of only 559 units this vehicle touts some of the most sophisticated technological feature ever seen on an automobile. The Superamerica is powered by a twelve cylinder 540 hp engine coupled to an optional Formula I transmission with the ability to go from 0 to 60 mph in 4.25 seconds. Its specialized transmission can be used in the automatic or manual mode as well as normal or sports at the driver s discretion. Likewise its suspension is state of the art and can be adjusted to sporty or comfort at the flick of a switch. However, and without a doubt, the most high-tech feature on the Superamerica has got to be its electronically controlled color change convertible top. This unknown feature is a first of its kind ever used on a production automobile. Similar to the idea of eyeglasses that darken to sunlight the Revocromico top can be electronically adjusted from clear to almost black at the driver s command. Overall the car has been designed as user friendly and is very easy to drive. For the Modeler: This review covers the Revell kit #2034, a 1/24th scale, Ferrari Superamerica that comes molded in 110 parts that are White, Chrome and Clear with Vinyl tires. Revell rates this at a Skill Level 2 for Moderate builders. Strangely this is the EXACT SAME release as the Germany version but they rate theirs a Skill Level 4 with 114 parts. My sample is dated 2006 Revell Germany and is a Re-Release (Re-Pop) of the model. It has been re-released in both German and American versions and is still available on the market in a few different box art versions. Typical quality by Revell the kit includes a very nicely detailed engine/transmission and rear differential and axle. If desired this easily lends itself to additional detailing for Contest Quality builds. Also the interior is very nicely done. A piece of black screening is provided along with a template of shapes that are required to cover the side vents, the hood intake and the left rear fender intake. The body is multiple parts. Overall the kit is molded crisply with little if any clean up needed. The instruction sheet is equally well done and easy to follow. Overall dimensions are: Length: 7, Width: 3, Height: 2-1/4.
BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure. Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice. Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. One of the best parts of model building is using your imagination to create the car YOU want! Unless you are building a Factory Stock or a Replica car your choices of color and build options is completely up to you. The instruction give recommendations but you are free to substitute whatever options you want. There is no Wrong way to build your kit! Have fun and enjoy your hobby. Review the instruction sheet thoroughly to get familiar with the assembly sequence. Decide your color scheme in advance and your custom options so you can build accordingly. PIC 1 This is the box art for this kit as released in the Revell USA version boxing. Unless otherwise stated I use Testors Tube Glue (Orange Tube) for assembly of the parts. Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Elmer s White Glue. Paints consist of Testors Enamel and Tamiya Acrylic bottle paints and Rattle can spray paints. The body is finished using 1:1 automotive use paint products shot with an airbrush. One of the major benefits of using automotive paint is a very fast drying time. You can get just as good results using Spray can products but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured in less than an hour and clear about 6 hours. Use a good quality airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will destroy the cheaper ones quickly. Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use simplified colors that most model builders should have on hand. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion. Note to remember: Always follow the Manufacturer s Safety and Use Guidelines when using any of the products mentioned in the review for your own protection. PIC 2 PIC 3 Here is a scan of the decals. There are a ton of license plate options, interior details and motor details. The screens for the vents are also done in decal. All badging for the car and some chrome details are included too. Revell decals are top notch. There is almost no carrier and they float easily and adhere in place with no issues. Take care to pay attention as many of the decals are very small and that makes them harder to work with to get placed correctly. Use of a setting agent will help placement of the small decals, I use Micro-Sol and Micro-Set. Note: the Revell of Germany and Revell America use the same decal sheet.
PIC 4 There is a template on the instruction sheet in 1:1 scale for you to cut the screen vents. PIC 5 Start with the motor assembly. Paint the following parts Aluminum: motor sides, motor bottom, motor top, heads, exhaust manifolds. The motor front is Black and Steel. The oil filters are Black with Silver housings. The exhaust are Silver. The distributors are Silver. PIC 6 Here is the detailing of the motor cover. It is Red, Aluminum and Black with DECALS 10, 12 and 18.
PIC 7 PIC 8 Assemble the motor sides. Attach the motor bottom and top in place. Add the oil filters to the motor bottom. Attach the motor front. Attach the heads to each side. Add the exhaust to the manifolds and install on the motor. Add the distributors to the cover and install on the motor. PIC 9 The chassis is started now. Paint the chassis pan Flat Black with Aluminum A-arms on front and rear. Paint the exhaust pipes Aluminum with Silver mufflers and catalytic converters. PIC 10 Attach the exhaust tips to the mufflers and install the mufflers into the center support. Install this unit into the chassis pan.
PIC 11 PIC 12 Build the rear suspension now. Assemble and paint the differential Aluminum with Flat Black axle boots and a Black driveshaft. Paint the support wall Flat Black. The A-arm is Aluminum. The shock is Yellow with a Black spring. Note in PIC 12 the spindles are specific as to the side they are installed, the pin is made to face the front. PIC 13 Attach the differential to the chassis. PIC 14 Add the spindles with the pins to the front. Install the A-arm into the back wall and the shocks into the A-arm and back wall. Install the finished units on to the chassis with the shock sitting in the mount of the A-Arm and the spindle in the A-arms.
PIC 15 PIC 16 The front suspension is assembled now. The tie rod is Black with Aluminum ends and Flat Black boots. The spindles are Aluminum. The A-arms are Aluminum with Flat Black supports. The shocks are Yellow with Black springs. The radiator is Silver with Black fan blades and Gray fan wheels. PIC 17 PIC 18 Install the front suspension in this order: Snap the tie rod on to the spindle without glue. Snap the spindles into the lower A-arm on the chassis without glue (tie rod forward). Slide the shock in place and attach the upper A-arm to the frame and snap the spindle in place without glue. Note PIC 18 for shock location. Attach the motor in place on the frame and connect the driveshaft. Add the fans to the radiator and install the radiator last.
PIC 19 Here is a shot of the front suspension from the underside. PIC 20 The skid plates and fender wells are painted Flat Black and installed. There is a small chrome plate that is installed at the transmission. PIC 21 Install the skid plates in place on the bottom of the chassis. Install the wheel wells to the top side of the chassis.
PIC 22 PIC 23 The tires are assembled to complete the chassis portion. Note the front tires are smaller and the tires are directional. Paint the wheel backs Silver and the brake discs Silver with Red calipers. DECALS 29 goes on the calipers and DECALS 37 on the hub centers. To create a more used look on the tires press and roll the tires on a sheet of 220 grit sandpaper. This will rough up the tread giving it a street worn look. PIC 24 Assemble the tires by inserting the rear rim in the back side. Insert the brake into the rear rim in the tire. Add the rim front making sure to line up the spokes on the front and rear rims. PIC 25 Install the tires on the car with the calipers to the back. Due to the spindles and rims having notches they will only go on one way.
PIC 26 PIC 27 The interior tub is started now. I will complete this in multiple steps as there are many small decals to place on the parts. First I will assemble the seats and seat backs to paint them as a unit. DECAL 19 goes on each seat head rest. The door pulls can also be installed on the door panels. DECAL 8 goes on the speaker cover. Once the parts are painted the base Tan color I will detail each in its own step. Final assembly will consist of installing the seats, door panels and console. Also the pedals are installed. PIC 28 PIC 29 OPTIONAL IDEA: I decided I wanted to have carpet in this car. I will FLOCK the floor pan with some after market carpet flocking. It is simple to do and makes a nice add on detail. Paint the floor the color of the carpet. Using Elmer s White Glue paint a thin layer of glue on the area you want flocked ONLY. I use a fine strainer and dump the flocking into it and then shake the strainer over the glue area. Do this in a box so you can re-use the unused flocking. Cover the area densely with flocking and lightly pat it on. Shake off the loose stuff and it will be carpeted. Also you can look online or a craft store for CRAFT FLOCKING, it is very inexpensive and makes a really nice addition for that extra reality. This is 100% optional.
PIC 30 PIC 31 OPTIONAL IDEA: As people buy custom floor mats for their real cars why not have ones for their models? This idea is FREE to do and easy. Search the internet for car floor mats; use the pictures of the flat mat display and save it. In your photo program resize the front mat to a height of ¾ inches tall. Print them at 300 DPI on plain paper. Glue the paper to Black card stock and cut out the mat. A dab of White Glue on the floor will hold them in place. PIC 32 To detail the console use Flat Black on the radio and the AC controls. The shifter plate is Silver. DECALS 3 and 4 go on the shifter knobs. DECAL 6 goes on the bottom panel. DECALS 7 and 16 go on the kick panels. The shifter goes in the hole on the plate.
PIC 33 PIC 34 The dash is completed now but will be set aside for later assembly. Assemble the column and paint it Black. The wheel is Black with a Tan bottom and DECAL 5 in the center. Add the chrome control pad onto the column and install the wheel. On the dash the top pad is Black with a Tan overall color. The radio area is Black, as are the AC vents. DECAL 1 or 2 is used for the instrument panel. Attach the column to the dash and set it aside. PIC 35 PIC 36 Prep the body for painting. Before doing any work assemble some of the parts now. Install the back bumper. Install the mirrors. Install the hood hinge to the hood. Wet Sand all the parts with 800 grit paper and rinse them clean. Primer all parts inside and out. Paint a coat of Primer on all the body parts. The roof panel and the mounts for that can be painted Semi-Gloss Black. Wet sand the body with 800 grit sandpaper and rinse. Paint your base color next.
PIC 37 PIC 38 With the base on the car the decals need to be installed before clear coat. I Used Hyundai Sunflower Yellow for the body color. There are only a few decals to use on the body. You get the choice of USA or European side marker lights and logos. Plus plates for the different countries. Body Decaling and Finishing: After you have your base coat on the car you are ready to decal it. Remember decals lay better on a GLOSS surface and will not adhere properly on a FLAT surface. If you decal a flat surface you get what is called SILVERING of the decals, or the look that they are not adhered, as air is trapped under the decal. Clean your work area good so no dust or grunge from building and sanding gets under your decals. Pick the decals you want to work with and plan out how the best way to lay them out without handling previously laid decals will be. I try either a Front to Back or Top to Bottom approach doing one side at a time then the front and rear of the car in steps giving the decals time to set and dry in place before handling it again. Once you have a plan of action cut your first decal as close to the edge of the outermost color as possible. Once trimmed place the decal into warm water and let it get soft until it Floats loosely on the carrier paper. Microscale Industries has a product set called Micro-Set and Micro-Sol. The purpose is to soften the decals to help them conform to the contours of the body and lay smooth. To apply Micro Set, use a soft brush and apply Micro Set to the part where you are going to apply the decal. Next apply the decal as normal. Use a small pointed tip synthetic bristle brush and carefully position the decal. Blot the decal carefully with a Q-tip or paper towel so as not to move it and allow it to dry. For a tougher decal like the roof panel apply Micro-Sol with a small flat brush on to the decal. Apply with as few strokes as possible so as not to disturb the decal. As the decal dries slowly work any creases or blemishes in the decal out with a Q-tip or damp paper towel. Work slowly as not to damage the decal. A second coat of Micro-Sol can be added if needed. Now continue this process until all the decals for that area are done, wait for them to set and continue the rest of the car. Let the decals cure at least overnight before applying your clear coat. PIC 39 PIC 40 The roof is installed on to the car at this point. This is a multiple step job. First use Elmer s Glue and attach the glass to the roof panels. Once that is cured the roof slides into slots in the body and do not glue it. Attach the rear support that was painted Black. Install the lights into the front header and install that on to the front windshield frame.
PIC 41 PIC 42 Note the notches in the rear support that snap the support in place. Once completed the roof will be able to rotate freely in an up-top or open position. PIC 43 PIC 44 The dash and windshield are installed next. Slide the dash in place on the body. There is a frosted edge on the windshield. I used a Black Sharpie and draw in the Black surround. Paint the wipers and mirror Black. Install the mirror face and attach the mirror to the windshield. Using White Glue install the windshield. Add the wipers in place. PIC 45 PIC 46 The hood and engine compartment is next. See the close up of where to install DECALS 11, 13, 14, 15, 17 and 20. Install this into the car.
PIC 47 PIC 48 The screen will need to be cut for the side vents and hood. Cut two of W3 screens and a W2 screen. Note: If you prefer, the decals have a screen decal that you can use in place of the actual screen. Just cut the decal paper and glue it in place. Install the hood in place. On my car I found the hood would bind when you try to open it. My simple fix was to cut the hinge pins, now the hood works as expected without binding. PIC 49 PIC 50 Finish the front end. Install the headlight bezels and the grille from the inside. Install the mirror faces in the mirrors. On the headlight covers use a Black Sharpie and highlight the raised gasket area on the inside. Install the headlight covers with White Glue. PIC 51 OPTIONAL IDEA: License Plates: I decided to do custom license plates and personalize this kit a little. You can go to http://www.acme.com/licensemaker/ and create any custom plate you want for any State. Also, you can search photos online for designer license plates. You can save the photo and resize it to fit a model. Just print it on photo paper and you have a plate of your own. To print your plate for 1/25 or 1/24 scale kit, open your photo program and crop the plate so you just have the plate only. Re-size the image size to make the Width.5 inches and make sure CONSTRAIN PROPORTIONS is on. Use 300 DPI for a crisp print. Save that and Print it on White Photo paper printing on High Quality Print Setting. You now have a proper sized plate to glue on your car.
PIC 52 Paint the tail lights Stop Light Red with White centers on the inner lights and Turn Signal Yellow on the outer lights. PIC 53 Install them in place on the rear of the car. Add the plate in place. PIC 54 The final assembly is installing the chassis and interior on to the body. Insert the interior in place lining up the dash and rear panels flush. Use screen W1 to cover the rear fender vent. Start at the rear of the car and insert the chassis at a 45 degree angle putting the exhaust tips out the hole in the bumper. Slowly shoehorn the chassis into the body from back to front. Everything should line up smoothly so you can snap the body onto the chassis.
PIC 55 Here is the engine bay in the completed assembly. The hood will slide in place now and will open and close freely. PIC 56 PIC 57 Here are the finished shots of the front and rear of the assembled car.
PIC 999 OVERALL IMPRESSIONS: Revell always seems to produce nice quality kits and this one is no exception. The fit and finish is good for the overall construction. The car looks to be an accurate replica of the real car based on my research. Build up was straight forward with no snags that will hinder the average builder from producing a nice finished car. The motor is detailed and looks good finished in the car. The interior is simplistic to assemble and details are crisp. The chassis and suspension are solid and the assembly holds well. The body assembles fully before painting and is not even touched during the build until near the final assembly. This to me is a key feature because after you paint your body you want to handle it the least amount as possible to avoid damage. The final look of the build is nice. Overall the kit is a pleasant build. The only issue I have is the hood seems to fit but sits a little high. Nothing is holding it but it will not sit flush. I did research a few forums and this seems to have been a slight issue with other builders on this kit also. After building both the Revell of Germany (red car seen above) and the Revell America kits I had hood fit issues with both kits in the same manner. Although it is less pronounced on the American kit. On a scale of 1 to 10 I rate this one a 9, no issues and a nice fitting build.