Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20150320* Acura Integra Type R 1:25 Scale Revell Model Kit #85-4311 Review The muscle cars of the sixties and seventies are great for the drag strip, but for a real road race you need something lighter, something more nimble. You need a corner taking, pulse raising, Tuner like the Acura Integra Type R. It might not look like much, but with a well-tuned, light, and powerful engine under the hood, the Type R is one of the most capable street racers out there. The design of Type R models was originally focused on race conditions, with an emphasis on minimizing weight, and maximizing performance. Thus, Type R models were first conceived for racetracks. However, due to Honda's (Acura in USA) increased focus on their highly regarded VTEC engines, the Type R was eventually designed for a much wider market. The car features a DOHC VTEC 4 Cylinder engine, 4 wheel disc brakes, and a very low center of gravity for tight maneuvering. As built factory stock this is an under 14 second Quarter Mile Rice-Rocket with 6 seconds from 0 to 60 MPH! With aftermarket spoilers, wings and aero-kits this car becomes a Street Legal race car. For the modeler: This review covers the Revell kit #85-4311, a 1/25 scale Acura Integra Type R. The kit is Skill Level 2 for the Intermediate builder and is a Re-Release (Re-Pop). It has 105 parts molded in White, Chrome, Clear and Vinyl tires with metal axles. The build is not overly difficult but the kit is highly detailed with much of the engine bay molded as one piece. The motor is well detailed and consists of 10 parts. Chassis assembly is simple but the detail is great on the parts. The interior is multiple parts making detailing easier. The body is crisp with few mold marks. It has both Stock and Custom front and rear fasciae and three spoiler options. Also you get four rim options but only one set of thin-wall tires. The decals have race style belts, Carbon Fiber and multiple exterior badges and stripes. This will create a nice Fast and Furious car. Overall dimensions are: Length: 6-7/8", Width: 3", Height: 2".
BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure. Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice. Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. One of the best parts of model building is using your imagination to create the car YOU want! Unless you are building a Factory Stock or a Replica car your choices of color and build options is completely up to you. The instruction give recommendations but you are free to substitute whatever options you want. There is no Wrong way to build your kit! Have fun and enjoy your hobby. Review the instruction sheet thoroughly to get familiar with the assembly sequence. Decide your color scheme in advance and your custom options so you can build accordingly. PIC 1 This is the box art for this kit as released in the Streetburner version. Unless otherwise stated I use Testors Tube Glue (Orange Tube) for assembly of the parts. Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Elmer s White Glue. Paints consist of Testors Enamel or Acrylic bottle paints and Rattle can spray paints. The body is finished using 1:1 automotive use paint products shot with an airbrush. One of the major benefits of using automotive paint is a very fast drying time. You can get just as good results using Spray can products but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured in less than an hour and clear about 6 hours. Use a good quality airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will destroy the cheaper ones quickly. Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use simplified colors that most model builders should have on hand. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion. Note to remember: Always follow the Manufacturer s Safety and Use Guidelines when using any of the products mentioned in the review for your own protection. PIC 2 PIC 3 This is the new release version of the decals. Revell decals are high quality with almost no carrier. They float easily and adhere quickly. Due to the size of some of the decals and the contours needed to cover I will use a setting solution. I prefer Microscale Industries products because of their compatibility with most all decals I have tried.
PIC 4 PIC 5 OPTIONAL IDEA: License Plates: I decided to do custom license plates and personalize this kit a little. You can go to http://www.acme.com/licensemaker/ and create any custom plate you want for any State. Also, you can search photos online for designer license plates. You can save the photo and resize it to fit a model. Just print it on photo paper and you have a plate of your own. To print your plate for 1/25 or 1/24 scale kit, open your photo program and crop the plate so you just have the plate only. Re-size the image size to make the Width.5 inches and make sure CONSTRAIN PROPORTIONS is on. Use 300 DPI for a crisp print. Save that and Print it on White Photo paper printing on High Quality Print Setting. You now have a proper sized plate to glue on your car. PIC 6 Start with the motor. Assemble the Block, bell housing and front. Paint that Gunmetal with an Aluminum alternator. Paint the valve cover Red with an Aluminum coil pack and center section. DECAL 4 or 5 will go on the center section. The oil pan, intake manifold and exhaust manifold are Steel. The transmission is Aluminum. The belt is Flat Black. The air filter is Gray and Red. DECAL 6 goes on the air intake tube.
PIC 7 PIC 8 Assemble the motor by adding the transmission, valve cover and oil pan. Add the intake and exhaust manifolds. Add the belt. PIC 9 PIC 10 The chassis pan and interior pan are painted and assembled. The motor will be installed also. Note on the chassis pan rear corner the Copyright information needs to be removed. Use a #11 Exacto Blade to shave it off and sand the area flat.
PIC 11 PIC 12 Paint the chassis pan Flat Black. Choose an interior color and paint the interior that color. Mask and paint the engine bay Flat Black. Highlight the engine bay with Semi-Gloss and Gloss Blacks for depth. Detail your interior as you decide, I did a Flat Black/Semi-Gloss Black look. On the chassis I used Flat Blacks and Semi-Gloss Blacks from Tamiya to highlight details. The heat shield is Copper with Gunmetal. Highlight other details as you see fit for your level of detailing. Add the interior pan to the chassis and then install the motor. PIC 13 Finish the engine bay. Paint the firewall Body color. Highlight the details with Silvers and Blacks. Paint the fans, front panel and radiator hose Flat Black. Paint the master cylinder Steel with a White tank and Black cap. The support is Aluminum with Black mount tabs.
PIC 14 Add the master cylinder tot the firewall and install that. Add the front panel and fans. Add the radiator hose in place. Add the support to the shock towers. PIC 15 PIC 16 The front suspension is built next. Paint the frame, tie rod and braces Semi-Gloss Black. The transaxles are Flat Black the shocks Steel. Attach the frame. Add the shocks but do not glue. Add the transaxles. Add the right brace attaching the transaxle and shock to it. Insert the tie-rod through the frame to the brace. Attach the left brace connecting the transaxle, shock and tie-rod to it.
PIC 17 PIC 18 Install the exhaust. The pipe is Steel, mid muffler Aluminum, catalytic converter Copper. Attach the front pipe to the manifold. Attach the rear pipe to the front pipe and on to the chassis. PIC 19 Build the rear suspension. Paint the suspension Semi-Gloss Black with Steel shocks. PIC 20 Install the shocks and add the suspension in place attaching the shocks to it.
PIC 21 The interior is completed next. Assemble the seats and paint the parts the color you chose for your interior, I am doing a 2 tone Black. I assembled the console, armrest, shifter and brake and painted that as a unit Semi-Gloss Black. PIC 22 The door panels go the color of your choice, I did 2 tone Black. DECALS 27 are door speakers. DECALS 28 & 29 are rear deck speakers. DECALS 17 & 22 are seatbelts. PIC 23 PIC 24 Assemble the dash now. Paint the dash your interior color, I did Semi-Gloss Black. The wheel and column are Semi-Gloss Black. DECAL 1 or 2 is the instrument panel DECAL 3 is a choice of Red or Silver steering wheel emblems. Add the Clear face and instrument DECAL tot the back side. Assemble the column and wheel and add that to the dash.
PIC 25 Install the dash into the interior. NOTE: the instructions have you start the body at this point. I will complete the chassis assembly and save the body until the last step.
PIC 26 PIC 27 You have four rim choices. I picked the ones I can paint. I will do them Satin Charcoal. The brakes will be Silver with Copper calipers and DECALs 8 & 9 on the disc. The tires are directional as are the brakes. Take note of this when installing them. PIC 28 PIC 29 The tires are directional note the tread pattern when you install them. To give the tires a road worn look use 220 grit sandpaper and roll and press the tread on the paper. Install a brake disc with the metal pin inside each rim and install on the tires. PIC 30 PIC 31 Match up the brake backs with the suspension and attach with glue only around the edge of the mount. Do the front and rears to maintain proper direction and brake caliper locations. PIC 32 The chassis is finished, here is a Rolling Chassis shot. Refer back to the instruction sheet for the body assembly now. This body can be assembled prior to painting, as this is the optimal way to do it I will assemble the parts and then paint it.
PIC 33 PIC 34 To start the body you must choose Stock or Custom parts for the front and rear bumpers. I chose the Custom. PIC 35 There are three wing choices for the rear. Depending on the look you personally want choose one and attach it to the body. I chose the High Profile Racer. PIC 36 Once you choose your parts for the car you can assemble the front and rear bumpers, add your wing and locate your hood. The car is now ready to paint. As I wanted something from the Fast and Furious style and yet a light color so I will use a Chrysler color, Cirrus Blue Gray, which is a light Lavender Metallic.
PIC 37 PIC 38 Check the body over for mold lines and blemishes. I found none. Wet sand the whole body with 800 Grit paper and rinse clean. Use a good quality Primer and coat the entire car inside and out. Once that is cured wet sand the whole car again with 800 grit paper and rinse. You can now paint your base color. PIC 39 Body Decaling and Finishing: After you have your base coat on the car you are ready to decal it. Remember decals lay better on a GLOSS surface and will not adhere properly on a FLAT surface. If you decal a flat surface you get what is called SILVERING of the decals, or the look that they are not adhered, as air is trapped under the decal. Clean your work area good so no dust or grunge from building and sanding gets under your decals. Pick the decals you want to work with and plan out how the best way to lay them out without handling previously laid decals will be. I try either a Front to Back or Top to Bottom approach doing one side at a time then the front and rear of the car in steps giving the decals time to set and dry in place before handling it again. Once you have a plan of action cut your first decal as close to the edge of the outermost color as possible. Once trimmed place the decal into warm water and let it get soft until it Floats loosely on the carrier paper. Microscale Industries has a product set called Micro-Set and Micro- Sol. The purpose is to soften the decals to help them conform to the contours of the body and lay smooth. To apply Micro Set, use a soft brush and apply Micro Set to the part where you are going to apply the decal. Next apply the decal as normal. Use a small pointed tip synthetic bristle brush and carefully position the decal. Blot the decal carefully with a Q-tip or paper towel so as not to move it and allow it to dry. For a tougher decals apply Micro-Sol with a small flat brush on to the decal. Apply with as few strokes as possible so as not to disturb the decal. As the decal dries slowly work any creases or blemishes in the decal out with a Q-tip or damp paper towel. Work slowly as not to damage the decal. A second coat of Micro-Sol can be added if needed. Now continue this process until all the decals for that area are done, wait for them to set and continue the rest of the car. Let the decals cure at least overnight before applying your clear coat.
PIC 40 Paint the mirrors Black and install them. Paint the window moldings Black. PIC 41 PIC 42 Paint the headliner area Black. Around the windows paint the frosted areas Black. Prior to assembly I want to give the glass a thinner crisper look. I will dip the parts into Pledge Floor Care. When applied to both side of a piece of clear polystyrene, it will make glass appear thinner and clearer. It will help to hide minor scratches also. Simply pour some Pledge into a small container and dip your clear glass into it. It's a kind of magic; it will self-level and make the part clearer! After you dip the part, be sure to place a cover over it to prevent dust from collecting on it. Place the parts on a sheet of paper towel to cure, the paper towel will draw out the excess Pledge and Wick it off the parts so it does not accumulate at the edges leaving an unwanted build up. Paint the rearview mirror Black and add it in place. Install the glass into the car.
PIC 43 PIC 44 Install the front lights. The turn signals are painted Turn Signal Yellow and installed. Add the headlight lenses to the bezels and install from the inside. I used Elmer s Glue for this step. PIC 45 PIC 46 Install the rear parts. Paint the tail light lenses Stop Light red leaving the backup lens clear. Add the bezels inside the car and the lenses from the outside. Add the mirror faces and rear wiper. PIC 47 PIC 48 The chassis and body are mated now. The chassis slides right into the car and the old screw mounts are used to attach the body with glue. Install the exhaust tip now also.
PIC 49 PIC 50 Add the hood and front plate. Add the rear plate. This completes the build. PIC 51 Depending on your choice of parts you will have leftovers to add to the Parts bin. Here are my leftovers.
PIC 99 OVERALL IMPRESSIONS: This is a nice build. Fit and finish is good and there are no snags in assembly. There are some extra parts to customize the exterior but nothing to really make it a Tuner as seen in movies. You get a stock interior and chassis with nothing extra. A true Tuner would have all kinds of Toys like NOS, computers, Custom motor stuff. Overall the car looks good finished. The motor is basic but looks nice. The interior has good detailing and with multiple parts and it s easy to detail. The chassis has a lot of molded details and the suspension is solid when constructed. The exterior looks correct from my research and is very clean with no excess mold lines to deal with. Decals from Revell are good quality and these will lay down and form nicely, I did have issues with the full hood Carbon Fiber decal even with Micro- Sol though. It would not lay flat for me. Otherwise decal usage was good. Overall this is a fun kit to build and makes a nice shelf model to go with other F&F style cars. I give this one a 9 on a scale of 1 to 10.