Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20160414* Peterbilt Cabover Pacemaker 352 1:25 Scale AMT Model Kit #759 Review Peterbilt Motors Company was founded in 1939. They are an American manufacturer of medium and heavy-duty Class 5 through Class 8 Semi trucks. From the early 1960s until the mid-1980s the company was based in the San Francisco Bay Area in California, with its headquarters and main plant all in Newark California. Peterbilt model numbers traditionally started with a "2" for single drive rear axle tag axle models, and with a "3" for dual drive rear axle model from 1939 until 1981. 282/352: Tilt-cab cab-over-engine models that replaced the Model 351 (non-tilting) cab over with "Panoramic Safe-T-Cab" in 1959. Formally nicknamed the "Pacemaker" by a staffer at Peterbilt after an in-house name contest in 1969 (the winner got a color TV). From 1959 to early 1969 the headlights were closer to the radiator and the UniLite cab was all hand tooled. The Pacemaker cab was refined through the 1970s. Pacemakers 352s were available in cab sizes ranging from 54" to 110" bumper to back of cab (BBC). A 352 Pacemaker appeared in Knight Rider as super-truck Goliath, and the "cab-over Pete" is referenced in the classic CB radio song "Convoy". For the modeler: This review covers the re-release (Re-Pop) of the AMT Peterbilt Cabover 1:25 Scale kit by Round 2. This is Kit #AMT759 in the current catalog. This kit started out in 1970 and has seen multiple releases over the years. Most of the releases were just decal changes. AMT considers this a Skill Level 3 kit. You get over 250 parts molded in White, Chrome, Clear and Clear Red with Vinyl tires and Metal axles. The decals are waterslide and this version is the Bicentennial Edition 1976. The instructions are typical old style AMT. Many of the parts are the same as found in the Pete California Hauler kit. In fact the motor, whole Chrome sprue and interior parts are identical. While the frame is shorter you will end up with excess
parts as you get all the plates and air tanks for the 359 that you will not use on this 352. But what modeler doesn t like extra parts? The motor is a nice build and is quite detailed. The frame builds straight. The interior tub and sleeper area is fully detailed. The cab is a single piece and is straight and solid. The chrome is crisp and clean but flash is an issue throughout the kit because of it s age and you need to take extra time to clean up the parts before assembly. Overall size is: Length: 10, Width: 4, Height: 6. BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure. Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice. Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. One of the best parts of model building is using your imagination to create the build YOU want! Unless you are building a Factory Stock or a Replica your choices of color and build options are completely up to you. The instruction give recommendations but you are free to substitute whatever options you want. There is no Wrong way to build your kit! Have fun and enjoy your hobby. Review the instruction sheet thoroughly to get familiar with the assembly sequence. Decide your color scheme in advance and your custom options so you can build accordingly. PIC 1 This is the box art for this kit as released in the Retro Deluxe version. Unless otherwise stated, I use Model Master Liquid Cement for assembly of the parts. Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Elmer s White Glue. Paints consist of Tamiya Acrylic bottle paints and different brands of Rattle can spray paints. Many parts are finished using 1:1 automotive use paint products shot with an airbrush. One of the major benefits of using automotive paint is a very fast drying time. You can get just as good results using Spray can products but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured in less than a half an hour and clear about 6 hours. Use a good quality airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will destroy the cheaper ones quickly. Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use simplified colors that most model builders should have on hand. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion. Note to remember: Always follow the Manufacturer s Safety and Use Guidelines when using any of the products mentioned in the review for your own protection.
PIC 2 PIC 3 Here are the decals for this build. The quality is very high and color registry is good. There is a small carrier around each decal. These decals float easily and will set quickly. Normally it is preferable to use a setting solution to help move the decals in place on your build and to allow extra time to place them. I personally have found Microscale Industries products to be the most compatible with all the different manufacturers of decals. PIC 4 A majority of the motor is assembled prior to painting. Also I will paint many of the chrome parts as it is my preference to not have chrome on motor parts. Assemble the block, oil pan, heads, lower and upper front covers, transmission rear plate, oil filter, blower drive case front and back and oil filler tube.
PIC 5 Assemble the blower halves and front and rear, add the governor. On the valve cover add the oil filler. PAINT: Peterbilt would custom paint the motors to match or contrast the frames and bodies for the customers per order. I painted the block Red with an Aluminum transmission. The governor is Aluminum as is the oil cooler. The exhaust manifolds are Steel. The starter is Black with a Gold solenoid. The belt is Flat Black.
PIC 6 PIC 7 Final motor assembly: Add the blower and valve covers to the motor top. Add the oil cooler and exhaust manifolds and starter. Install the air compressor and add the belt. PIC 8 The tires can be given a rough road used look by using 220 grit sandpaper and pressing and rolling the tread on the paper. This will sand off the glossy surface leaving a roughed up tread that resembles road wear.
PIC 9 Paint the hub either Body color or Chassis color. Insert the hub into the rim. Insert the rim into the tire and Superglue the trim ring to the rim edge. PIC 10 The tires can be given a rough road used look by using 220 grit sandpaper and pressing and rolling the tread on the paper. This will sand off the glossy surface leaving a roughed up tread that resembles road wear.
PIC 11 Paint the rear drum chassis color. Insert a tire onto each of the eight rims and superglue the trim rings to the rim edges. Note the inner rims have NO LUGS. Attach an inner rim to the drum then attach an outer rim to the inner rim. I use Superglue. PIC 12 PIC 13 Assemble the chassis at this time. The rear springs are placed on the frame rails as well as the front springs. Starting with one rail install the cross members in place one at a time. Once all are placed add the other rail and add the end cap. NOTE: MAKE SURE THE FRAME IS STRAIGHT. Paint it Red.
PIC 14 The rear air ride is installed. The mounts are painted chassis color. The bags and shocks are Flat Black with the top and bottoms of the bags chassis color. PIC 15 Add the bags to the mounts and slide the mounts in place adding the shocks to the frame and mounts on their respective pins. PIC 16 Install the front suspension. Add the tie rod to the axle. Insert the pins into the spindle ends and install those to the axle ends. Paint the axle Red. Paint the shocks Flat Black. The steering box, pitman arm and idler arm are Flat Black.
PIC 17 Install the axle onto the springs. Add the shocks. Install the steering box and add the pitman arm with the idler arm connected to it and the axle. Add the front tires. PIC 18 The rear suspension is next. Assemble the axles.
PIC 19 On the front rear axle add the gearbox. Add the backing plates to the axle ends. Install the brake chambers onto the mechanics and that to the backing plates. Paint those units Red. The rear driveshaft is Steel. Install the rear axle. Add the driveshaft. Add the front rear axle. Install the tires with the metal axle rods. PIC 20 Finish the motor and install it. Paint the belts Flat Black and the fan Black. Install the Upper radiator hose and lower radiator hose.
PIC 21 Install the alternator onto the small belt and add that to the motor. On the large belt add the fan mount and fan. Assemble the air compressor and add it. Install the motor into the frame at this point. Add the belt in place on the front of the motor. Paint the driveshaft Steel and install that from the transmission to the rear axle. PIC 22 The fuel tanks are four parts, assemble the tank and add the ends. Include the step on one set of the tanks. Paint the tanks, I did mine in Blue for my theme, the straps are Aluminum. The air filter and Luberfiner are assembled. Assemble the battery box. Add the Luberfiner mount and Luberfiner to the side of the box. Paint that Blue with Aluminum straps on the Luberfiner. The air filter with the mount is painted Blue with Aluminum straps. Add the chrome bottom to the air filter and top to the Luberfiner. The fifth wheel plate, mount and wheel are Blue. Assemble the shift plate and mount and paint that Flat Black. The flaps are Flat Black. Now scrape off the paint on the Peterbilt logo. The shifter link is Aluminum and the cab lever is White. Paint the shift boot Rubber color and the knob Black and add it to the shifter plate. Add the brake light to the tag plate.
PIC 23 PIC 24 On the passenger side working from the front of the chassis assemble the completed parts as follows: Add the air filter, cab lever, chrome air tank, fuel tank without step. On the driver side: oil filter, shifter mount, battery box. Chrome air tank, fuel tank with step. On the chassis top: The pogo stick, deck plate and fifth wheel. Add the shift linkage from the shift plate to the transmission. On the rear add the tag plate. PIC 25 The interior tub is Flat Black on the outside. The inside is your interior color. I used a Light Blue with Flat Black floor.
PIC 25 Add the filler panel. The trim on the door panels and console is Wood and Gray. The instrument panel on the console is Black with Silver and White instruments. Highlight the knobs and handles in the cab with Silver. Assemble the driver door base and paint that Flat Black. The passenger and driver seats are Light Blue. Install the seats. Paint the heater Flat Black with the Peterbilt logo Red and install it. Add the White Bed and install it with a Light Blue curtain. The pedals are Black and installed and the brake handle is Aluminum and installed. Assemble the steering column and wheel and paint it Flat Black and the spokes Aluminum. Install that with the steering link. PIC 27 PIC 28 The dash is Flat Black with Wood panels and Silver trim. The instruments are White and Black with Silver rings.
PIC 29 Install the dash into place in the interior tub. PIC 30 The body can be started and the accessories installed that are painted body color prior to any work.
PIC 31 Add the visor to the roof line. Add the headlight trim to the inside of the cab. Add the steps into the cab. Lightly tack them in place for painting; they ll be removed and reinstalled later to insert the interior. The AC unit has the holes already drilled out on the roof to install that. PIC 32 The body has a lot of detail work that will be damaged with sanding. It is best to use a Lacquer Based Primer like Duplicolor or even Tamiya that will etch into the plastic as to sand the body and chance losing the details. Prime the whole body with a thin coat of Primer as smoothly as possible.
PIC 33 Use a scuffing pad and water if needed to smooth out the primer to preserve the details. Rinse and paint the body. I used a stock color White from PPG as a base coat. Once covered completely this will cure and can be decaled. PIC 34 PIC 35 Body Decaling and Finishing: After you have your base coat on you are ready to decal it. Remember decals lay better on a GLOSS surface and will not adhere properly on a FLAT surface. If you decal a flat surface you get what is called SILVERING of the decals, or the look that they are not adhered, as air is trapped under the decal. Clean your work area good so no dust or grunge from building and sanding gets under your decals. Pick the decals you want to work with and plan out how the best way to lay them out without handling previously laid decals will be. I try either a Front to Back or Top to Bottom approach doing one side at a time then the front and rear of the car in steps giving the decals time to set and dry in place before handling it again. Once you have a plan of action cut your first decal as close to the edge of the outermost color as possible. Once trimmed place the decal into warm water and let it get soft until it Floats loosely on the carrier paper. Microscale Industries has a product set called Micro-Set and Micro-Sol. The purpose is to soften the decals to help them conform to the contours of the body and lay smooth. To apply Micro Set, use a soft brush and apply Micro Set to the part where you are going to apply the decal. Next apply the decal as normal. Use a small pointed tip synthetic bristle brush and carefully position the decal. Blot the decal carefully with a Q-tip or paper towel so as not to move it and allow it to dry. For a tougher decals apply Micro-Sol with a small flat brush on to the decal. Apply with as few strokes as possible so as not to disturb the decal. As the decal dries slowly work any creases or blemishes in the decal out with a Q-tip or damp paper towel. Work slowly as not to damage the decal. A second coat of Micro-Sol can be added if needed. Now continue this process until all the decals for that area are done, wait for them to set and continue the rest of the car. Let the decals cure at least overnight before applying your clear coat.
PIC 36 PIC 37 OPTIONAL: Prior to assembly I want to give the glass a thinner crisper look. I will dip the parts into Pledge Floor Care. When applied to both side of a piece of clear polystyrene, it will make glass appear thinner and clearer. It will help to hide minor scratches also. Simply pour some Pledge into a small container and dip your clear glass into it. It will self-level and make the part look clearer. Place the parts on a sheet of paper towel to cure, the paper towel will draw out the excess Pledge and Wick it off the parts so it does not accumulate at the edges leaving an unwanted build up. After you dip the part, be sure to place a cover over it to prevent dust from collecting on it. PIC 38 Using white glue, install the glass in place.
PIC 39 The roof accessories are installed. Paint the running light lenses Transparent Yellow. PIC 40 Add those to the bezels and install on the roof. Assemble and install the horns. Install the AC grille. Add the door handles to the doors. Add the wipers on the front of the cab. Install the spot light lenses and glue those to the cab corners.
PIC 41 Install the interior tub. You may need to remove and re-install the steps to fit the interior in place. PIC 42 Continue the cab chrome work.
PIC 43 Assemble the stacks and install one to each side of the cab rear. Using superglue install the mirror mounts and faces. Add the lower mirror also. Add the grab bars. With Elmer s Glue add the headlight lenses and then install the headlights. The side markers are installed. The fronts are Transparent Yellow and the rear is Transparent Red. PIC 44 Final parts painting. The radiator, radiator hoses, air tank mount, air vent tube, air hose and main air tube are Flat Black. The exhaust pipes are Chrome. The step is Aluminum. The cross member, cab mounts and hinges are Red. Use a 50/50 Flat Black and Thinner wash on the grille.
PIC 45 Install the grille into the radiator and the three hoses into that, the radiator is then installed in place. The main air tube goes from the motor to the air filter, the small air tube from the top of the filter. The exhaust really do not connect to the motor but go in place to look like they do. Line them up with the cross member so with the cab on the stacks meet the ends of the exhaust tubes. PIC 46 Add the cab mounts to the chassis. Add the top of the air filter tot the middle and install it on the tube abs slide the tube into the hole in the cab roof. The air tank mount and air tank go on the underside of the floor. Assemble the hinges onto the bumper and attach that to the inside of the cab. Add the step to the passenger side of the cab.
PIC 47 Superglue the bumper to the frame horns of the chassis. Mount the cab to the chassis.
PIC 48 PIC 49 A finished view of the cab from the front and rear. PIC 50. This kit has some parts that are from the 359 kit and a few custom parts I did not use. Here is what I had left over to use in future projects.
OVERALL IMPRESSIONS: AMT continues to release some great old kits, and this is another favorite. It is starting to show some age with Flash and a few issues but overall it has stood the test of time quite well. Remember these are not new releases and the crisp detail of a kit today is not what you will get. Fit sometime needs work and these kits require more builder skill and effort to make a show quality item. But that is what is great. This is a challenge. While not overly difficult, these kits do not Fall together. The build gives you a nicely detailed motor with room to add and even replace it with one of many aftermarket options. The frame is un-assembled and you must make sure when building it you make it straight. The interior is not too appealing ad details are a tad muddy and thick, plus fit is poor on the parts. The cab was straight, details looked crisp and the fit was good. I had no issues with any of the parts fit of the cab. It even fit on the chassis. The decals fit properly and color registry was crisp and proper but overall the thickness was a little more than some of AMT s other offerings of late. Most of the time it is not a major issue but since these had to cover so many rivets and details, it made the need for solvents that much more a necessity. The instructions were typical old-style AMT and can confuse you a little as they are not completely clear. Take your time and pay attention to details. This makes a nice looking build and can be a show quality truck with a little effort. On a scale of 1 to 10 I d rate this an 8.