Allure Check and Assembly by Earl Haury

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Allure Check and Assembly by Earl Haury The purpose of this article is to offer my evaluation of the Allure and describe my assembly methods and choices.

1 Allure Check and Assembly by Earl Haury The purpose of this article is to offer my evaluation of the Allure and describe my assembly methods and choices. There are various ways of accomplishing the same goals a reliable, good flying airplane. Bryan has handled the latter, this is my approach to the former. The first thing I wanted to do after picking up my Allure was to verify the factory work in basic construction and alignment. I knew Bryan was satisfied, but another set of eyes doesn t hurt. The fuse was set up in my jig and adjusted so that the canopy flange was level, as this is the datum line Bryan used for reference. As shown in the pic, the wing tube is clamped in place and the fuse adjusted so the canopy flange is level span wise. A laser line is adjusted to be parallel with the flange level, then moved down to just impinge on the wing tube, which proved to be parallel to the flange. The laser line is lowered further to impinge on the stab TE, again verifying that the stab is parallel to the wing tube.

2 The laser line is rotated 90 and the rudder TE checked to be perpendicular to the canopy flange as shown. Next the wings were installed and leveled using adjustable V- block supports on the wings. The same process is repeated, aligning the laser line on the level, then lowering until it impinges the wing TE at the tips.

Next the fore / aft wing / stab alignment is checked with an aluminum bar, first the wing from the rudder C/L, then the stab from the wing.

On to wing incidence, Bryan had advised me that there was a wing incidence error by the factory (since fixed) that would need to be

rather than the desired + 0.5. I initially opened the wing pin sockets in the fuse, set the wings to +0.

3 Next the fore / aft wing / stab alignment is checked with an aluminum bar, first the wing from the rudder C/L, then the stab from the wing. At this point all is good, the important and hard to fix stuff was done very well and accurately by the factory. On to wing incidence, Bryan had advised me that there was a wing incidence error by the factory (since fixed) that would need to be addressed. Initial incidence measurements confirmed the wings to be rather than the desired I initially opened the wing pin sockets in the fuse, set the wings to and installed bushing in the socket holes. I then decided I really wanted some adjustability. I started by cutting the rear wing pin flush w the wing root (extending a bit from the root rib) and installed a dowel bushing drilled to accept a Gator adjuster socket.

The wing is installed on the fuse with the front pin / socket providing the desired incidence.

(I changed the adjuster jackscrews to 4-40 aluminum w an aluminum locknut to save a bit of weight.

into the root rib. A ply spacer allows the root rib to be tightened to the fuse without distortion.

4 The wing is installed on the fuse with the front pin / socket providing the desired incidence. A Gator adjuster is then inserted from inside the fuse, mounting holes drilled, and the adjuster attached. (I changed the adjuster jackscrews to 4-40 aluminum w an aluminum locknut to save a bit of weight.) The next step is to cut the front pin flush w the root rib, elongate the fuse hole vertically, and epoxy a ¼-20 nylon bolt into the root rib. A ply spacer allows the root rib to be tightened to the fuse without distortion. This bolt replaces the original wing attachment bolt. A CF washer and nylon wing nut now holds the wing on and clamps the LE at the incidence set by the adjuster. When trimming is complete the CF washer will be glued in place.

Finally the wing incidence is set using the adjuster.

) Satisfied w the wing settings and a bit tired of alignment chores at this

The factory provides servo mounting plates to be glued to the inside of the

As servo openings weren t cut, I decided to mount the servos inside the stabs.

5 Finally the wing incidence is set using the adjuster. (Note that the V-block supports in the pic are loose at this point.) Satisfied w the wing settings and a bit tired of alignment chores at this point. I turned my attention to the elevator servo mountings. The factory provides servo mounting plates to be glued to the inside of the wing skin, mounting the servo exposed on the surface. As servo openings weren t cut, I decided to mount the servos inside the stabs. I made a pair of 0.03 CF rib trays and doubled the thickness for the servo screws. The trays are drilled and tapped to accept 2-56 aluminum button head screws.

6 The tray with the servo mounted is temporarily mounted into the stab and the servo arm slot cut in the skin. A fixture is used to hold the arm in alignment and the servo tray is epoxied into the stab. I decided to make CF horns from templates I ve used before, so horns were cut from 0.04 CF plate.

The elevators slotted, and the horns epoxied in place.

fabricated from 0.04 CF so as to pass through a slot in the rudder and epoxied in place.

The rudder Kevcord runs on the ball shaft and the ball keeps it from slipping off, a

7 The elevators slotted, and the horns epoxied in place. Finally bb rod ends were mounted, servo neutral set, and dia. CF rods epoxied in place. (Futaba BLS173 Servos) Following the same control horn theme, a CF rudder horn was fabricated from 0.04 CF so as to pass through a slot in the rudder and epoxied in place. A CF rudder servo arm was fabricated and mounted to a servo wheel and fitted w Ti balls. The rudder Kevcord runs on the ball shaft and the ball keeps it from slipping off, a method that s stood the test of time. The rudder servo tray / servo (Futaba BLS 175) was mounted and the exit holes determined with laser lines from arm to horn in two planes. After installing the cables, which

didn t align well with the holes, I found the cables rubbing on a foam former in the fuse rear, a little surgery on the former and the cables lined up whew!

I epoxied the stab tube into the fuse, as I like it to be solid.

Here again, the factory hadn t set the stab incidence correctly, (fixed) a little bit of work with the adjusters got the incidence to +0.12.

8 didn t align well with the holes, I found the cables rubbing on a foam former in the fuse rear, a little surgery on the former and the cables lined up whew! The stabs were installed and aligned be advised there s a horizontal former in the fuse just below the adjuster rod. Cut the servo lead holes above it. I epoxied the stab tube into the fuse, as I like it to be solid. I found the threads in the aluminum stab adjusters a bit loose but, after considering options, am satisfied that a bit of Loctite solved the problem. Here again, the factory hadn t set the stab incidence correctly, (fixed) a little bit of work with the adjusters got the incidence to Moving on to aileron servo installation. The factory supplies trays installed to the bottom of the wing skin that will work fine. However, I gotta do it my way. I cut the factory trays out to the skin opening and installed a pair of lite-ply short rib sides that are slotted to accept 0.04 CF rails

and place the servo at a more ideal angle with just the arm exposed.

The rails are drilled and tapped to accept the same type 2-56 aluminum screws used in the stabs.

I used a BB rod end on the horn and a ball link on the servo arm.

9 and place the servo at a more ideal angle with just the arm exposed. The ply parts are glued into the wing, then the CF rails slipped in place and glued. The rails are drilled and tapped to accept the same type 2-56 aluminum screws used in the stabs. Servos are mounted (Futaba BLS171), CF horns installed, and linkage assembled. I used a BB rod end on the horn and a ball link on the servo arm. Finally a piece of trim MK is installed over the servo opening. Mounting the motor. First order of business is to remove a good deal of the nose ring material, cut it out to the ID of a light backplate spinner using a Dremel sanding drum.

I measured the downthrust angle defined by the nose ring and found the specified -0.5 with the canopy flange 0. I chose to use a Hacker Q80-11S motor rather than the more popular 13 / 14XS version.

10 I measured the downthrust angle defined by the nose ring and found the specified -0.5 with the canopy flange 0. I chose to use a Hacker Q80-11S motor rather than the more popular 13 / 14XS version. The Q11 is conservatively rated 3 kw vs. the 2.8 kw of the Q13/14, but is 80 g. or so heavier. I calculated that the weight would be OK and expected the Allure would need weight forward. Besides that, I like the superior torque available w the Q11. With the alignment all good, I took some measurements from the motor mounting surface to the face of the drive hub and temporarily glued some balsa spacer blocks behind the nose ring. A few more measurements, on this plane, of the fuse nose were transferred to some card stock which I trimmed to fit the fuse behind the spacer blocks.

The next step is to tape a 3 3/8 spinner backplate to the nose ring and to slip a piece of YS crankshaft,

One mounting screw hole is drilled and the motor affixed to the plate.

11 The next step is to tape a 3 3/8 spinner backplate to the nose ring and to slip a piece of YS crankshaft, with the end coated with ink, through the spinner to mark the paper template at motor center. The template shape is transferred to CF plate and the center hole cut to just fit over the Hacker Q motor end thrust washer. One mounting screw hole is drilled and the motor affixed to the plate. The temp spacer blocks are removed, the drive collet / drive hub installed, this assembly is inserted into the fuse, and the mount trimmed as necessary to ensure a good fit with the prop shaft centered in the spinner backplate. With a 1/32 ply

spacer between the backplate and the nose ring, the prop hub and prop nut are installed.

holes cut. The entire thing is again installed and spot glued.

12 spacer between the backplate and the nose ring, the prop hub and prop nut are installed. When the fit is good, the assembly is removed, the remaining mounting bolts installed, the center hole enlarged, and cooling holes cut. The entire thing is again installed and spot glued. The spinner backplate is removed, the front of the mount glued using Aeropoxy, and the spinner / spacer reinstalled and left for the epoxy to cure overnight. The motor is then removed, the rear of the mount epoxied with Aeropoxy, and the motor reinstalled using Ti screws. I prefer to use a rear stabilizer on outrunners. The Allure fuse seems robust enough to do without it, but I d probably increase the thickness of the mount plate to CF so the weight is a wash.

bearing, adjust the legs so that the tabs fit the fuse forming an X, and epoxy the tabs to the fuse.

I chose to install the motor with the leads to the left which allows attaching the ESC (Hacker Jeti

I machine a piece of aluminum stock to fit the 8mm rear bearing ID and drill / tap the center to

13 bearing, adjust the legs so that the tabs fit the fuse forming an X, and epoxy the tabs to the fuse. The whole contraption weighs 18g. I chose to install the motor with the leads to the left which allows attaching the ESC (Hacker Jeti 95 Opto Lite) onto the side of the fuse w Velcro tape. I machine a piece of aluminum stock to fit the 8mm rear bearing ID and drill / tap the center to accept a aluminum capscrew. The stabilizer legs are cut from 0.03 CF and the mount tabs from 0.06 CF. The latter are tapped 4-40 and assembled to the legs w 4-40 Ti capscrews. With the adapter inserted in the

At this point the RX, Tech-Aero PLR-5 regulator (7.

With everything installed, including the prop and spinner, I hung the

14 At this point the RX, Tech-Aero PLR-5 regulator (7.5v), Tech-Aero Throttle-Tech, TP 900 mah RX battery, and all servo wiring is installed. Aileron servo leads holes cut in the fuse and cooling air exits cut in the bottom of the fuse. The position of the batteries is used to define / adjust the CG. With everything installed, including the prop and spinner, I hung the Allure from the ceiling using my Vanessa CG rig which allows for precise measurement. The support rod has the cords wrapped so that turning the rod changes the cord fore / aft lengths. These

15 are adjusted until the canopy flange is level. At that point the plumb bob, also hanging from the support rod, is pointing at the CG. As per Bryan s advice, the batteries were moved to provide a CG at the rear edge of the wing tube and their position marked. A battery tray is included with the Allure which will work, it s mounted on CF tubes across the fuse with the mounting point reinforced with ply biscuits. The batteries are secured w Velcro. However, here s another place I did it my way. I patterned the inside of the fuse where I wanted to locate the tray. I wanted some fore / aft adjustment range, so I made it longer than the batteries (8 ). I transferred this pattern to a piece of 1/8 CF / Nomex honeycomb material. This stuff weighs 0.5g/in², is very strong, and pretty good at transferring heat. It s also a good electrical conductor, so the sharp edges are filled with balsa. I glued it into the fuse w ProBond which locks into the honeycomb and is light. I fitted the tray in the fuse so as to position the batteries vertically centered on the wing tube and motor shaft. I agree with Bryan that vertical CG is of little consequence to vertical lines, I m pretty sure mass off the rolling center does bad things. The system has several parts revolving around 2 x 5S battery packs that are assembled w a ½ thick x ¾ x 1 spacer at each end, so stay with me. First is the tray floor which is fitted with a 1/8 x 3/8 spruce that s slotted and drilled for three different hold down rod locations. Under the tray is epoxied a CF plate fitted w 3 blindnuts to match the rod locations. The rod is 4-40 stainless threaded rod from McMaster- Carr (Please don t use the typical

hobbyist threaded rod.) with an aluminum locknut. The locator part is 1/2 x ¾ balsa with a 0.

When placed on the rod, the tabs engage the slots on the tray and prevents battery rotation.

A thin CF plate and 4-40 nut secures it in place. Overall this provides for 1 ½ range.

16 hobbyist threaded rod.) with an aluminum locknut. The locator part is 1/2 x ¾ balsa with a 0.03 CF guide tab at each end, holes ¼ from center, and a relief for the rod locknut. When placed on the rod, the tabs engage the slots on the tray and prevents battery rotation. The hole selection for the rod determines the fore / aft location for the battery. A thin CF plate and 4-40 nut secures it in place. Overall this provides for 1 ½ range. The battery is placed over this and is fixed by the locator and pack spacers. A CF cap, also w a ½ thick balsa anti-rotation key and a CF washer fitted w a 4-40 blind nut (use Du-Bro) clamps everything together. An R clip through the washer and slot in the cap secures the nut. The whole system weighs 54g.

I mount a Deans between 2 CF supports, insulate the leads from the CF tray w

17 Here s a look w the pack installed. I m a proponent of external battery disconnects. I mount a Deans between 2 CF supports, insulate the leads from the CF tray w 1/32 ply, and Aeropoxy the thing in place, recessed in from the fuse side to minimize the plug exposure. Often it s necessary to solder connections in an airplane. Be aware that a drop of solder will go through a composite fuse like a knife through hot butter! Always shield the fuse w several layers of aluminum foil.

The last item is installing the wheels and wheel pants. (I prefer the Central Hobbies aluminum axles.) I epoxy a small piece of 0.04 CF inside the pant.

The gear strut is also drilled (#33), being sure to place the pant side on the drill press table and then drill from the back side to ensure bolt is square with the strut.

18 The last item is installing the wheels and wheel pants. (I prefer the Central Hobbies aluminum axles.) I epoxy a small piece of 0.04 CF inside the pant. The axle hole is drilled in the pant where it s marked in the mold. The gear strut is also drilled (#33), being sure to place the pant side on the drill press table and then drill from the back side to ensure bolt is square with the strut. A second hole is drilled about 3/8 above the axle (#41). The pant / axle / wheel is installed with the bolt snug. With the airplane on the wheels, the pants are aligned with the bottom parallel to the bench. A #50 drill is used to drill through the pant / CF plate. The CF is tapped 2-56 and a capscrew through the strut locks the pant in place. Don t forget to tighten the 4-40 axle screw. A wheel diameter of 2 ¼ fits nicely, the pants may accommodate 2 ½ wheels of some brands. I used a MK tailwheel that I had, just like their reliability. Control travels are set to provide ± 8 on the ailerons, w 22 for snaps, elevators to +10 and -11, w 15 for snaps. Rudder is ±21 w ±29 for stall turns and ±12 for snaps. Your preferences may vary, as well as my own after flying some, but these are a good place to start.

Then the big question what s the weight? That 4987g. number is w 1200g batteries, a TP900 RX pack, Mejzlik 21x13E prop, along with the Q80-11.

Air density is high here now and I felt the 21x13 Mejzlik was a little much and changed to a 20.5x12W Mejzlik which seams better.

19 Then the big question what s the weight? That 4987g. number is w 1200g batteries, a TP900 RX pack, Mejzlik 21x13E prop, along with the Q Next question how s it fly? Very, very well. At this writing I ve only 8 flights in strong Xwind, but haven t touched a trim on the TX. Air density is high here now and I felt the 21x13 Mejzlik was a little much and changed to a 20.5x12W Mejzlik which seams better. Everyone has accolades for their new airplane, so I won t go there. I like its solid feel and easy rolling tendencies. Believe what Bryan claims he isn t exaggerating. Good flying!

Table of Contents. Tail Wheel Assembly Installation.. page 01. Stabilizer Installation.. page 02. Fin Installation.. page 03

Table of Contents. Tail Wheel Assembly Installation.. page 01. Stabilizer Installation.. page 02. Fin Installation.. page 03 Table of Contents Tail Wheel Assembly Installation.. page 01 Stabilizer Installation.. page 02 Fin Installation.. page 03 Elevator and Rudder Hinge Installation.. page 04 Rudder Controls.. page 05 Elevator