Many thanks to Sonicrete, Bucko and Lucksox who put me onto this whole way of replacing the valve guide oil seals without pulling the head or even taking the motor out of the frame. The key to it all is the Lisle Valve Keeper Remover and Installer Kit 36050 which can be found on line for around $40 to $50. The kit contains two sizes and the F requires the smaller. First task is to get everything out the way including the cams. Before removing the cams I loosened the cam chain tensioner bolts an wound the engine backwards. This pushes the tensioners into the fully released position, then tighten the bolts back up to secure the tensioners. This makes getting the cams out and back in again easier. I took out the coil assembly as well as that helps with access and sight lines when you get to the front center valves. Swiftnick Page 1 2/25/2012
I hung the main cam chain on a roller to allow the engine to be turned over via the hex on the alternator and stuffed the center tunnel with rags to stop errant parts falling in. I used compressed air via the spark plug ports. However I wanted to keep the cylinder I was working on at TDC as a last chance save should a valve drop. With air pressure in the cylinder the piston would want to go to BDC. To stop that from happening I Tee d my air line and put pressure into the adjacent pairs of cylinders. 1-2 and 3-4, one pair at a time. You need 100psi to hold the valves up.. Swiftnick Page 2 2/25/2012
Next pull up the shim bucket of the first valve. A pick or other sharp pointed object hooked just under the shim through one of cutouts works well. The shim does not lift out and the bucket comes up. I only lifted the bucket I was working on so as not to expose unnecessary cavities to drop stuff in or risk mixing them up. Then I used an old 35mm film canister (suggested by one of those who went before me) with the bottom cut out and a section cut out of the side so it could be made smaller. The plastic tube served two functions: 1) it protects the shim bucket bore and 2) on the center valves where access gets tight, it supports the keeper removal tool allowing you time to figure out how to press on it. Now take the removal tool and put directly onto the top of the valve spring retainer, hold in place and give it light whack with dead blow mallet. You really do not have to hit it very hard at all. Start off with a softish tap to see if its enough. Swiftnick Page 3 2/25/2012
The springs will compress and the keepers will get drawn up inside the tool by the magnet within. Now you can lift off the valve spring retaining washer and pull the springs out. Watch out for any lower spring spacers coming along for the ride. Now use a O ring hook to reach down below the existing valve guide oil seal and pull it out. Sometimes it comes first go, other times you work around the diameter in 2 or 3 locations before it comes out. Make sure you retrieve the little spring ring as well. If the seal comes up without it, go find it. Swiftnick Page 4 2/25/2012
Take a new replacement seal and oil the internal diameters. Then place it over the end of the valve stem. (Yeah I know I have jumped on to the next valve, photographer s license). I found a nice plastic tube in the form of a pen cap that was a perfect match to the pressing diameter of the seal. Then all it takes is thumb pressure to shove the seal down and snap it into its retaining groove. Very easy to feel as it snaps into place. Swiftnick Page 5 2/25/2012
Replace the springs (close coils down), put the keepers into the upper washer and place that on top of the springs. Attach the installation adapter to the handle and engage the spring loaded tapered tip into the center of the keepers. The pic shows the plastic tube reinserted but I found it to be of little use during the reinstallation process. Square up the tool onto the springs and push down. You will hear the keepers click into place. Lift the tool off and 9 times out of 10 you will see the keepers only partially seated. Reapply the tool and press again; they will now go fully home. Visually check the keepers are fully seated, oil the outside surface of the shim bucket and slide it back over the valve. Move on to the next valve. Swiftnick Page 6 2/25/2012
I completed cylinders 1 and 4 first getting the feel of everything. Then rotated the crank 180 degrees to bring pistons 2 and 3 to TDC. To remove the keepers from the outboard exhaust valves on cylinders 2 and 3 I used the plastic tube to align the removal tool an then an extension shaft to carry the mallet blow to the end of the tool. To reinstall the keepers on outboard exhaust valves 2 and 3 I used just the installation adapter without the handle fitted but with a socket slid onto its engagement stem. Swiftnick Page 7 2/25/2012
Then pushed on it with the mallet handle. Inboard exhaust valves cylinders 2 and 3 I used the socket extension bar to apply pressing load to the keeper removal tool. Again relying on the plastic tube to align the tool. Swiftnick Page 8 2/25/2012
Reinstallation of the keepers was achieved by using the install tool with socket and a broom handle to apply pressing force. Inboard and outboard inlet valves on cylinders 2 and 3 can be accessed with the keeper removal tool using a socket extension to carry the mallet blow to the tool. Swiftnick Page 9 2/25/2012
Keeper reinstallation for inboard and outboard inlet valves on cylinders 2 and 3 can be done with hand pressure directly on the socket/reinstall tool. And you re done. Before putting the cams back in this is a really good time to mic up and record all the shim thicknesses if you don t already have it written down. Swiftnick Page 10 2/25/2012