Generation II Installation Guide

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Generation II Installation Guide HayDay, LLC 9323 N. Government Way Unit 402 Hayden, Idaho 1-800-732-1654 www.stablegrazer.com

Congratulations on your purchase of the Stable Grazer Generation II automatic hay feeder. The following instructions may be used as a general guide for installing the Stable Grazer Generation II. If you are unsure of your ability to install the Stable Grazer Generation II you should consult a licensed contractor. Before modifying any structure, consult with your local building inspector to be certain of your local and state building codes. The Stable Grazer is very versatile and can be mounted almost anywhere. Several different installations will be covered in this guide. Whichever installation you choose, it is recommended that the feeder be installed in such a way that your horse can not access the door. If your only choice is to install the feeder so your horse has access to the door, it will be necessary to install some type of device to keep the horse from rubbing on the door area. The following installations are for reference only. Each situation is different, therefore making it impossible to give exact information. You are responsible for determining your own measurements. Contents Misc. Parts...Page 3 Install Handle & Remove Shipping Strap......Page 4 Stall Front Installation.Page 5 Wall Installation (feed through the wall) Page 9 Post Mount Page 11 Battery Installation Page 14 Removing the Door & Strut..Page 15 2

Misc. Parts 5/16 x 1 Carriage Bolt 5/16 Nut 10-32 x 1/2 Panhead Screw 5/16 x 2 Flat Washer Handle Top Mount Bracket Main Mount Bracket Strut Load Tool The miscellaneous parts are zip tied to the manger rods. Check to make sure you received all of the following. (4) 5/16 x 1 Carriage Bolts (4) 5/16 x 2 Flat Washers (4) 5/16 Hex Nuts (2) 10-32 x ½ Phillips Panhead Screws (1) Handle (2) Top Mount Brackets (2) Main Mount Brackets (These are attached to the sides of the feeder for shipping.) (1) Strut Load Tool (Needed for removing the door or replacing the strut. Keep for future use!) (4) C Cell Batteries (1) Owners Manual (1) Installation Guide 3

Install the Handle Install the door handle using two 10-32 x ½ Phillips Panhead Screws. (Detail A) Remove the shipping strap Caution! Do not perform this step without placing a counterbalance on or in the manger. Pull the door open. You will feel some resistance from the gas strut compressing. Loosen the two 10-32 x ½ Phillips Panhead Screws that hold the shipping strap in place. Remove the strap by pulling it from between the door side and door. Discard the shipping strap. Re-tighten the two 10-32 x ½ Phillips Panhead Screws. 4

Typical Stall Front Installation A - 20" to stall floor. Many stalls have an elevation change between the stall and breezeway floors. Therefore this measurement should be from the stall floor to allow the feeder to rest on the stall floor. B - 24-1/2" C - 55" or more. It's not necessary to fill in the area above the feeder. But if you do you should have a 55" opening. D - 1-1/2" minimum. The frame on each side of the feeder should be at least 1-1/2" for fastening the mounting brackets. E - When using sliding stall doors be sure to allow enough room for the door to slide open without hitting the feeder. IMPORTANT: This is particularly critical when the stall door is in the center of the stall. If this is the case the door will more than likely have to slide away from the feeder. D E Front View C Stall Door slides away from feeder B A Breezeway Floor In this example the stall floor is 2" below the breezeway floor. 5

Top View Stall divider or wall. Stall Front Make sure a stall divider or post doesn't interfere with the installation of the feeder. If you are installing the feeder close to a stall divider it may be easier to install the feeder before the divider. Stall Door Make sure the door doesn't slide into the feeder. If you have a center door it will more than likely need to slide away from the feeder. 6

1. Caution! Do not open the door until you have placed a counterbalance on or in the manger. Pull the door open. You will feel some resistance from the gas strut compressing. Remove the mounting bracket using a 1/2" wrench. Re-install the mounting bracket with the short leg extended away from the feeder. Place the end of the bracket 3" from the front of the feeder as shown in Detail B. Repeat for the mounting bracket on the opposite side. (If necessary the door may be removed for these steps. Refer to the Door & Strut Removal instructions) 2. Place the top mounting bracket in place with the bottom edge of the bracket approximately 3" from the top of the feeder. The short leg of the bracket should be the same distance from the front of the feeder as the brackets installed in the previous step. Make a mark in the center of each slot and drill a 5/16" hole at each mark. Attach the bracket with two 5/16" x 1" carriage bolts, large washers and 5/16" nuts. (included) Repeat for the top mounting bracket on the opposite side. 7

3. Slide the feeder into position from inside the stall. Push it in until the mounting brackets come into contact with the stall front. 5. Install fasteners (not included) in the previously drilled holes and tighten. 6. Check the alignment of the door in the opening. If necessary, loosen and adjust the brackets for proper alignment. 8

Thru the Wall Installation 24 1/2 22 1/4 1. Locate and cut a 24 ½ x 22 ¼ hole in the wall. This is where the horse will access the feed manger. If your wall is more than a couple of inches thick you may need to cut a taller opening to allow your horse better access to the feed manger. Be careful not to cut any supporting structure. Depending on the design of your wall, some additional support may be required. If you are not sure of the consequences of cutting a hole in your wall, you should consult a licensed contractor. 2. Caution! Do not open the door until you have placed a counterbalance on or in the manger. Pull the door open. You will feel some resistance from the gas strut compressing. Remove the mounting bracket using a 1/2" wrench. Re-install the mounting bracket with the short leg extended away from the feeder. Place the end of the bracket slightly past where the manger starts as shown in Detail A. Repeat for the mounting bracket on the opposite side. (If necessary the door may be removed for these steps. Refer to the Door & Strut Removal instructions) 9

3. Place the top mounting bracket in place with the bottom edge of the bracket approximately 3" from the top of the feeder. The short leg of the bracket should be the same distance from the back of the feeder as the brackets installed in the previous step. Make a mark in the center of each slot and drill a 5/16" hole at each mark. Attach the bracket with two 5/16" x 1" carriage bolts, large washers and 5/16" nuts (included). Repeat for the top mounting bracket on the opposite side. 4. Slide the feeder into position. Push it in until the mounting brackets come into contact with the wall. 10

6. Install fasteners (not included) in the previously drilled holes and tighten. 7. Check the alignment of the door in the opening. If necessary, loosen and adjust the brackets for proper alignment. Mount To Post Installation 2x4 24.5 4x4 Post 73.0 Ground Level 1. Bury two posts 24.5 apart with approximately 73 above ground level. Depending on your soil type you may want to use concrete for added stability. Attach a 2x4 across the top of the posts. 11

2. Caution! Do not open the door until you have placed a counterbalance on or in the manger. Pull the door open. You will feel some resistance from the gas strut compressing. Remove the mounting bracket using a 1/2" wrench. Re-install the mounting bracket with the short leg extended away from the feeder. Place the end of the bracket slightly past where the manger starts as shown in Detail A. Repeat for the mounting bracket on the opposite side. (If necessary the door may be removed for these steps. Refer to the Door & Strut Removal instructions) 3. Place the top mounting bracket in place with the bottom edge of the bracket approximately 3" from the top of the feeder. The short leg of the bracket should be the same distance from the back of the feeder as the brackets installed in the previous step. Make a mark in the center of each slot and drill a 5/16" hole at each mark. Attach the bracket with two 5/16" x 1" carriage bolts, large washers and 5/16" nuts (included). Repeat for the top mounting bracket on the opposite side. 12

4. Slide the feeder into position. Push it in until the mounting brackets come into contact with the posts. 6. Install fasteners (not included) in the previously drilled holes and tighten. 7. Check the alignment of the door in the opening. If necessary, loosen and adjust the brackets for proper alignment. 13

Battery Installation Remove Remove 1. Remove the two 10-32 screws holding the Control Panel. Tip the Control Panel towards you to reveal the back side. Battery Clamp Slide In To Here 2. Loosen the two 10-32 screws holding the Battery Clamp until you are able slip a 6 Volt screw terminal battery (not included) into the Battery Clamp. Slide it in until it just touches the wires coming through the Control Panel. Tighten the two 10-32 screws holding the Battery Clamp until the battery feels snug. Attach the wires to the battery terminals. Take special care to attach the red wire to the positive (+) and the black wire to the negative (-) terminals. Note: The Back Stop is removed for clarity. Manual Switch 3. Test the connections by pressing the manual switch, the camshaft should begin to rotate. Continue to press the manual switch for two seconds then release. The camshaft should continue until it completes a 180 rotation. The camshaft should rotate in a counter clockwise direction when looking at it from the Control Panel end. If it rotates the wrong direction, check the positve and negative connections on the battery. Your Stable Grazer Generation II Feeder is now ready to program and use. The clear friction fit timer cover can be removed by lifting it away from the control panel. Please refer to the Owner s Manual or the decal to the left of the timer for programming instructions. 14

Removing the Strut and Door This is not necessary for initial setup. It is only necessary to do this if the strut needs to be replaced or the door needs to be removed for some reason. 1. Open the door and place the slot of the strut hook over the slide at the top of the L-linkage. 2. Lift the door enough to hook the other end of the strut hook under the lip of the manger just below the main frame 3. Using a 7/16 wrench remove the nut and nylon washer that attaches the straight linkage to the L- linkage. 4. Push down on the door enough to relieve the pressure on the straight linkage. Slide the straight linkage off the stud on the L-linkage. You may need to move the door up and down slightly to accomplish this. 15

5. Close the door far enough to un-hook the strut hook from the lip below the main frame. Slowly let the door back down while pulling in on the L-linkage to allow the slide to pass by the edge of the cabinet. You may want to have something handy to support the door on since it will no longer be held by the strut. You can remove the door without removing the feed shelves. If you would like to remove the door without removing the feed shelves lift all the shelves up until they lock into position and continue with step 9. 6. Starting with the shelf closest to the control panel, lift the shelf far enough that you can remove the shelf support from the loop strap. 7. After removing both sides of the shelf support from the loop straps twist the shelf support sideways and slide it out from under the shock cord. 8. Lay the shelf back down. Pull up on the center of the shelf while holding the opposite side down. This will flex the shelf enough to allow the hinge pins to slide out of the hinge holes. Now you can remove the shelf. Repeat step 6-8 for the remaining shelves. 9. Remove the six 10-32 x ¾ Phillips Flathead screws that attach the hinges to the cabinet and remove the door. Reverse these steps to re-install the door. 16