URFNVKR[VHUYLFH Difficulty Grading expert Wrench Time 1 hour Tip, Strip or Tune Strip Spares Needed Oil Seals 4.99 (pr), Dust Seals 5.75 (pr) 22mm socket Rubber mallet Allen keys Small Phillips screwdriver Schrader valve core key SID cartridge removal tool Shock pump and Sid adaptor 8 and 10mm t-bar socket wrenches (ground off at the end) flat head screwdriver
Disconnect the front brake cable via the noodle. Remove the front wheel. Removing the fork from the bike will make life much easier throughout the strip. Make a note of the air pressure in each of the three air chambers, and then fully deflate the fork, starting with the negative chamber (located at the left hand dropout) followed by the positive chambers (located within the top caps). Remove the valves cores from the positive air chamber first. The two Schrader valves are located within the top caps. Unscrew the small Phillips screw from the push/pull damping adjuster located at the bottom of the right leg.
Remove the top caps with the 22mm socket attached to a ratchet drive. Don t try and use an open spanner or adjustable because there s a good chance it will damage the top caps. Loosen the shaft bolts from the bottom of both the sliders using the 8 and 10mm t-bar sockets. Don t remove the bolts completely; just loosen them 2 or 3 turns. Using the rubber mallet, tap the end of the t-bar to free the shaft bolts. Carefully pull the sliders off from the stanchions. Place a paint tray or bowl under the fork to catch any oil or Red Rum.
Remove the boots from the stanchions and the bump stops from the protruding shafts. Using the Sid Cartridge Removal tool unscrew the C3 damping cartridge and Negative air cartridge from the stanchion tubes. Both cartridges have reverse threads, that s to say they unscrew in a clockwise direction. Again catch the Red Rum in a tray as you remove the cartridges. Test the C3 damping cartridge by cycling the shaft. The action should be smooth and continuous without any air pockets. To reduce the travel of the fork (80 63mm), place an ATO spacer onto the Negative cartridge shaft, between the top out bumper and piston bump stop.
Lever out the old Resi-Wiper dust seals with a flat bladed screwdriver, using a rag or electrical tape around the blade to protect the sliders. Position the screwdriver facing into the brace to prevent the seal flying out. If you re not running them already, replace the seals with Rock Shox s new XXX seal system. To work out which seal your fork is running check the photograph below. On the right is the XXX seal and on the left is the old Resiwiper. The XXX is a threestep system using a pop-up wiper seal to keep out dirt along with a foam filter to stop debris and finally an oil seal. Transferring to the XXX eliminates the need to run boots on your fork. There are two types of bushing available for Y2K Rock Shox. The standard 5mm jobs (right) and the 10mm extra deep versions (left). If you re looking for every avenue available to reduce fork flex, upgrading to the 10mm bushings will make a difference at the expense of a little plushness. Send your fork to Madison for servicing for any bushing replacements.
Clean through the sliders and stanchions using a biodegradable solvent and a soft bristle bottlebrush. Dry both the stanchions and sliders thoroughly. Apply a thin film of Red Rum or 20wt fork oil to the inside of the stanchion tube, to help the installation of the cartridges. Don t flood the fork with oil, a little squirt goes a long way. Slide the negative cartridge into the left hand leg. Take care not to damage the O- ring as you insert the cartridge. Tighten the cartridge into place with the Sid Cartridge Removal tool. Remember the left hand thread (tighten anti-clockwise). The cartridges just need to be nipped up barely finger tight (3.4 Nm).
Stuff a rag into the top of the left hand stanchion tube. Put your thumb over the end of the negative shaft and push it into the upper tube. If the seals are all in good condition you should meet some resistance as the air pressure builds. Release the air pressure. Apply a light film to the inside of the right hand stanchion and refit the C3 cartridge. Like the negative cartridge, tighten to 3.4 Nm. The threaded end of the cartridge may weep some oil as it is tightened into the stanchion, but cycling the cartridge a few times should stop this. Clean the valve cores with WD40 or GT85 and refit into the top caps.
Apply a drop of lubricant to each of the O-rings on the top caps and reinstall into the crown. Tighten to 5.6Nm. Slide the bottom out bumpers onto the protruding shafts. Wider end against the bottom of the stanchion. Using the shock pump, introduce some pressure into the positive chambers. Spray some WD40 or GT85 onto the bottom of each of the stanchions and watch for any bubbles. If there are bubbles appearing it means the fork is leaking air and needs further attention.
The XXX seal needs to be fitted over the stanchion tube before it can be installed into the tops of sliders. Slide the seals over the ends of the stanchions being careful not to fold over the lip or damage the seal spring. Insert a thin zip tie between the seal and the stanchion tube. Pump around 5cc of Red Rum or fork oil into each of the sliders. Lightly lubricate the oil seals within the sliders and slip the slider assembly onto the stanchions. The ends of the cartridge shafts should appear through the holes at the bottom of the sliders. Push the seals into the sliders using your fingers.
If you re persisting with the 99 seals, press them into the sliders with your hand. If they re too tight, use the hollow end of a 27mm socket over the seal and tap it home. Pump a couple of shots of Red Rum or fork oil over the bushings and slip the sliders onto the stanchions. Be careful not to fold over the seal s lip or damage the seal spring. Refit shaft bolts through the bottom of the sliders and tighten. They should be tweaked just past finger tight or 5.6 Nm if you have a torque wrench. The larger 10mm bolt screws into the right hand leg and the 8mm pairs up with the left hand leg. While holding the seals with your thumb, slowly withdraw the zip- tie. This prevents the build up of an air pocket under the seal and preventing it from seating properly.
Pump up the air chambers to their respected pressures, adding 5psi to take into account the air lost when the pump is removed. Always inflate the positive air chambers first (within top caps). Refit the damping adjuster with the small Phillips screw, taking care not to round the head or damage the threads. Refit the black plastic dust covers to the valve holes. Replace the fork in the bike.
6LG7XQLQJ7DEOH Rider Weight PSI Less than 55 kg 30-40 55 to 65 kg 40 50 65 to 73 kg 50 60 73 to 82 kg 55 65 Over 82 kg 65-75 7URXEOHVKRRWLQJ Problem Cause Solution Air loss from the positive chamber Air loss from the negative chamber Overtightening shock pump onto valve cores. Excess lubricant in positive chamber Also overtightening of the shock pump. Verify the operation of the valve cores and replace if necessary. Drain excess lubricant. See above. Damaged piston o-ring Replace the o-ring Can't get full travel Overfilled with oil Drain oil and refill with 5cc either side.