Lakela nd H2 Low Speed Stator Coil Installation Step 1: Place the stator assembly on a padded surface to protect the plastic signal generators, and orient it as shown in figure 1. The low speed coil is indicated by the red arrow. There are no exposed terminals where the two wires enter the cloth wrap, whereas the four 12V charging coils have solder terminals. Step 2: Using long nose pliers, bend open the plastic covered wire retainer as shown below:
Step 3: Carefully cut the string that's tying the wires together to the right of the Low Speed Coil as shown at the right. Step 4: Using a small screwdriver, carefully separate the wire bundle from the Low Speed Coil. You'll have to crack the varnish to allow the wires to move away. Take your time and make enough room to work on the coil. Step 5: Using a small screwdriver or similar tool, work the tip behind the retaining tab, separating it from the coil.
Step 5 (cont.) Continue prying as shown, to bend the retaining tab away from the old coil: Step 5 (cont.): Using a hammer and a scrap of soft material like the aluminum rod shown, tap on the retaining tab until it is straight, and not in the way of removing the coil. Soft material is used so sharp burrs are not formed on the tab, which could cut the new coil's cover. This photo shows the straightened retaining tab.
Step 5 (cont.): Repeat the procedure for the other retaining tab. Access is a little more restricted because of the signal generator mounting plate, but it is not a problem. Separate 2nd Tab From Coil Pry 2nd Tab With Screwdriver Tap on Tab With Soft Rod Both tabs should now be straight, as shown on the left, and will allow the old coil to be removed.
Step 6: Start prying the old coil loose. It is cemented in place, so you need to use enough force to break the bond. You may need to tap on the screwdriver handle to get it behind the coil. Step 6 (cont.): Insert the screwdriver on the other side of the coil as shown and pry. As you get a little room behind the coil, try to pry the bottom, top, left and right repeatedly. Step 6 (cont.): Continue prying until the coil has moved noticeably.
Step 7: When the coil has moved out somewhat, you will be able to see where its wires enter the wrap. It's important to note which wire goes to the left side of the coil and which goes to the right. Mark them if needed, to keep from mixing them up. The ignition system will not work properly if the leads are interchanged. Clip the left wire as show in the photo to the right. Step 7 (cont.): The other wire, shown in the photo to the left, needs to be as long as possible after it is clipped. This is because often there is only a short piece of it showing outside the sleeving in the harness, and you're trying to avoid having to mess with the sleeving. Use a knife to cut the coil wrap near the wire and try to pull some of the wire out from under the wrap before clipping it off, to get a little more length. Step 8: Now the coil can be fully removed. It may leave some remnants of the cloth wrap behind, as well as some of the cement that glued it into place. Scrape as much of the debris off as you can.
Step 9: The remaining cement must be removed from the area. This can be done by chiseling and scraping, or by using a rotary tool as shown. Take your time to clean the area well, and be careful not to damage any of the wires. Also try not to remove material from the iron pole piece. Step 10: When the iron pole and the area that the coil will seat against are clean, apply some 5-minute epoxy to the back side and the inside surfaces of the new coil and carefully push it into place, seating it fully. Electrically, it does not matter which side of the coil faces outward, but try to choose the side that won't alow the end of the wrap to catch on the iron as the coil goes on. Step 11: When the coil is seated, gently bend the retaining tabs back into place with the soft metal rod and hammer. Take your time and use care not to slip and damage the new coil. Tap the tabs just far enough to come up against the coil, but not so much as to deform it.
Step 11 (cont.): When the tabs are properly bent back into their original position, the coil will be firmly held in place, but not crushed. Step 12: Turn the stator so that the new coil is down, mix some 5-minute epoxy, and apply some in the gap between the coil and the stator pole. Step 12 (cont.): Squish the epoxy down into the gap all around and let it set before moving the stator. When set, the epoxy should fill the gap around the iron pole, preventing the coil from moving around by vibration.
Step 13: Prepare the wires to be soldered to the new coil's leads. Here a scrap of metal is held under one of the wire of the harness, and a knife used to cut the fiberglass sheath away. Then cut the plastic insulation away from about 1/4 of the end of the wire, leaving the bare conductor showing When both leads have been prepared, they should look something like this. Step 14: Arrange the new coil's leads so they can be soldered to the wires prepared in step 15. Leave enough length to allow the pieces of heat-shrink tubing to be placed on the wires and slid away from the solder joint. It's OK to have loops in the leads, as they can be secured later, and the extra wire will not effect performance. Clip the leads to length, and strip about 1/4 of the insulation off the ends. The insulation on the new coil leads is Teflon, which is excellent for high temperature use, but it's slippery. If needed, hold the lead with a small, folded piece of fine sandpaper while stripping.
Step 15: With the heat shrink tubing well away from the joints, solder the coil leads to the harness wires. It's best to interweave the wires and twist, or at least twist the wires together. Make sure there are no stray strands that might poke through the heat-shrink tubing later, and then solder. Look to see that the solder has flowed into the joint and made a nice looking, smooth connection. Step 16: Test the connections. Verify that the new solder joints are not contacting anything, and with an Ohm meter, measure the resistance from the white wire to the green wire of the 3pin rubber connector. It should be around 200 Ohms, give or take a few. To test the polarity, apply 12VDC to the green wire and ground the white wire. A compass placed inside the stator assembly should swing around so that the end that seeks north is pointing at the new coil. If it points the wrong way, you've reversed the coil leads and need to correct that before continuing. Step 17: When you've verified proper connection, slide the heat shrink tubing over the joints. Then use a lighter or heat gun carefully to shrink the tube. Avoid heating nearby wires. Also avoid using too much heat, which could damage the harness insulation.
Step 18: Arrange the wires neatly, and re-bend the metal retainer around the bundle. With some string or tie-wraps, re-secure the bundle in as many places as necessary, making sure there are no loose wires that might move around under the engine's vibration. Also verify that the bundle is not higher than the other wires around the stator. Some epoxy can be used to coat the bundle and secure it like it originally was, further preventing movement during use As a final check, a meter between the white and green wires should give a satisfying display. Your low speed stator winding replacement is now complete! Once installed on the engine, you should have good, strong sparks at kicking speed once again. This coil is guaranteed not to have defects in materials or workmanship (generally meaning "if it quits and you didn't wreck it though abuse") for two years from the date of purchase. If it fails during this period, return it to us (at your expense), and we'll replace it and return it to you (at our expense), or refund your purchase price (our option). -Jim Hobbs, Lakeland Services Co.