Tools Required: 1. Trim Removal tool or protected flat screwdriver 2. #2 Phillips Screwdriver 3. 10mm socket 4. 10mm wrench 5. 8mm or 5/16 socket 6. Adjustable Pliers 7. Electrical Tape WARNING!!! Disconnect the negative side of the battery before beginning any work. Note: It is not necessary to mount the relays in the same location as outlined in these instructions, I just found this to be a neat and out of the way location. If you mount them someplace else, Section III contains the instructions for connecting the wiring. SECTION I Trim Removal Step 1: Step 2: Using a plastic trim tool or a flat bladed screw driver (wrap a rag around the blade) lift the front edge of the left door sill trim (Pic 1). Lift the trim enough to get your fingers underneath (Pic2). Work back slowly and continue to pop the trim loose (Pic 3). Next we are going to remove the hood latch handle and foot well trim. First we want to get the door seal out of the way. It will just pull loose by grabbing and pulling away from the frame. Pull it past the foot well trim at the bottom and up the side to the top of the dash (Pic 4). Use a 8mm or 5/16 socket to push on the 4 fingers holding the latch(in the center). Push the socket on the fingers and the latch should pull right off (Pic 5 and 6). Now we can remove the trim. WARNING If not done correctly, you will break this trim piece. Do not pull towards the center. Use one hand to pull the trim straight back (towards the rear of the car) use the other hand to gently pull the trim from around the hood pull tab (you can reach over the top of the trim to help it from around the tab) (Pic 7 and 8). Page 1 of 20
Step 3: Step 4: Step 5: Now we are going to remove the outboard trim on the side of the dash. There is a notch on the bottom (Pic 9) Continue around this piece until all the tabs are loose, and then pull free (Pic 10). Next, we are going to remove the vent assembly. Remove the two screws and gently pull outwards (towards the door and then back towards you) to clear the assembly from the tab. (Pic 11 and 12). Once past the tab, you can use your other hand on the inboard side of the vent to help pull straight towards you. The entire vent and duct will come out. Remove the three screws on the side and one screw underneath for the lower dash trim (Pics 13 and 14). Push the tabs on each side of the OBD port and slide it back (Pics 15 and 16). Pull the lower dash trim towards you until you can reach the connector for the Auxiliary buttons (Eco, Light dime, etc ) Push the tab and pull the connector loose. You can now remove this piece (Pic 17 sorry for the blur). SECTION II Fog Light Kit Installation Step 1: Before mounting the relay s, study picture 18 so you have an idea how they are mounting and which way to feed the wire bundle. Using a 10mm socket, remove the upper right bolt from the lower dash support frame (Pic 18). Place the removed bolt through the mount hole in Relay 1, then reinstall the bolt. Remove the bolt below and attach the ring terminal for ground here. Route the wires behind and along the lower support structure (towards the fuse panel. That is all there is to mount. SECTION III Electrical Connection Step 1: Remove the 2 upper nuts and 1 lower bolt holding the fuse panel (10mm socket and wrench) (Pic 19 and 20). Once these are removed, remove all of the connectors plugged into the fuse panel (Take a picture or label the connectors ). Now you can pull and gently twist the entire fuse block to get access to the 2 connectors on the back. Push the Page 2 of 20
tabs and pull both connectors loose and fish them down to the bottom. You will need to remove some of the tape to separate the 2 leads and get access to the wiring (approx. 3 to 4 ). The top connector from the back is the one we are going to splice our wires into (Pic 21 Connector C 23 pin). Step 2: Step 3: Step 4: Once you have the two connectors separated, mark the C connector as shown (Pic 22). One side will not have ridges; you want to mark the side with the ridges. Marking will make it easy to identify which wires we are splicing into. So, if you are looking at the connector and see the ridges, 1 is the first pin on the right and 12 is the last pin to your left. The second row is 13 to the right and 24 to the left. For those that have never tapped into a harness I am going to describe the taps and how to use them. If you are going to solder or are familiar with the use of these, proceed to step 4. Before starting, you may have noticed that I have included some extra wire and tap splices; this is in case you have never used these you can practice on the spare wire. Also, review the following picture for a visual guide as well (Pics 23, 24, 25 and 26). The way that these work is; one side will slip over the existing wire, the other side of the tap will only allow the wire to be inserted about half way (this will be the new wire we are adding). Between these two channels is a metal blade that when squeezed, will cut the insulation of both wires and act as a jumper between the two. To use these take the long practice wire and slip the tap over it so that it is sticking out of both ends. Now take the shorter wire and insert it into the other channel, making sure that it bottoms out in the hole. To squeeze the metal blade, I like to use a pair of adjustable water pump pliers (channel lock) grip the tap as shown in the pictures, check once more that the new wire is seated in the tap and squeeze until the metal blade is flush. Fold over the tab and lock into place. Done, pretty simple, and if done correctly will not cause any problems down the road. The first wire we are going to tap into is pin 11 of connector C this is a pink wire and is the next to last wire in the first row (from right to left). Pick a spot about 3 or 4 inches back from the connector and slip the tap onto the wire. Insert the wire labeled wire 11 from the new harness into the tap and squeeze. Now we are going to tap into pin 23. This wire is white and is the next to last wire on the second row (right to left). Repeat the procedure above for the wire labeled 23 of the new harness. We are done with that connector and you can wrap it back up with some electrical tape. Now we need to tap into a wire on connector A. In picture 21 it shows this connector as white, however, mine was blue. Of the two connectors on the bottom of the fuse panel it is the inboard one or the one on the right when looking at them in pic 21. Pull this connector free and again remove some of the tape. Place the wiretap over the wire in pin 6 this should be a Page 3 of 20
white wire (Pic 27 shows the numbering for this connector, and like the previous connector when looking at the ridges, 1 will be to the right of the first row and 12 will be to the left) You can tape that bundle back up and reconnect to the fuse box. Step 5: Step 6: Step 7: If all the connectors are back in place, you can now secure the fuse block back in place with the bolt and 2 nuts. We need to find a switched power source for the relays. If we don t, the fog lights may stay on when we turn the car off. I used the rear tail lights to tap into (second fuse up first row (left to right) pic 28). For this you must remove the fuse and insert the Add A Circuit tap (Pic 29). I have already inserted the proper fuses in the fuse tap. Now we can test the lights. Turn power on and place the light switch in the parking light position. Now turn on the fog lights and BAM!! They should be on. Leaving the fog lights on, turn the parking lights off. The fog lights should now be off. If these are the results you get, congratulations you are now one of the few VT owners that can do this. If you have any other results or if the fog lights do not come on, please give me a call and I will help you trouble shoot the problem. If all is well, then you can secure the wire bundle with the supplied ties and place the trim back in place What happens if after doing all this, my fog lights don t work? On the last page after the picture I have put some directions and a flow chart that should get things going. I want to thank you for your purchase. This was a great kit to put together and then test to see if what I put down on paper would work on the car. As with all my products, if you have any questions or concerns, please don t hesitate to give me a call. I will do whatever is needed to see that you are satisfied with your purchase. Bruce Tippett AKA BTJetman Page 4 of 20
Pic 1 Pic 2 Page 5 of 20
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Pic 21 (Fuse block removed and upside down in this view) Pic 22 (Marked 1 to the right and 12 (not t2) to the left) Page 15 of 20
Pic 23 Pic 24 Page 16 of 20
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Pic 28 Pic 29 Page 19 of 20
Troubleshooting 1. With power on, rotate the light switch to the Parking Light Position (first detent). Did you feel or hear Relay 1 click? Yes: Go to step 2. No: You have a bad connection for the Pin 11 wire on connector C. Check and fix this connection. 2. Leaving the lights switch in the parking position, rotate the fog light switch on. Did you hear or feel Relay 2 click? Yes: Go to step 3 No: You have a bad connection for the Pin 23 wire on Connector C. 3. Did the fog lights come on? Yes: Congratulations, You can now begin to reinstall the interior. No: You have a bad connection at the Pin 6 wire on Connector A. www.tippettautodesign.com Page 20 of 20