FITTING OF (WESTFALIA) REMOVABLE TOWBAR ON SKODA OCTAVIA 2013+ WITHOUT TOWBAR PREPARATION (04/11/16 CJ v1.0) A. INTRO ALL STEPS COMPLETED AT YOUR OWN RISK! I AM NOT LIABLE FOR ANY LOSS OR DAMAGE! These instructions are a guide, based on the workshop manual and towbar/electrics fitting instructions for the installation of a Westfalia removable towbar on the Skoda Octavia MK3 (in this case, 2015 model) including comprehensive body work removal instructions. Towbar installation instructions will be needed as electronics may vary along with interior trim levels! I completed the work in a slightly different order, but this guide is the best way! A relatively comprehensive set of tools will aid the fitting (Torx bits, socket sets, screwdrivers, electrical tape, smooth pry bar, needle point tweezers, cutters, pliers, torque wrench, electrical tape). Images are numbered on the bottom left referring to instruction steps (e.g. A-1 => A. Intro 1 (Towbar kit ) ). Instructions are given in text and as overlays/highlighting on images. Most steps have at least one reference image. Additional references/tips before starting: 1. Towbar kit, part of the bumper reinforcement bar, cap for attachment hole, removable neck with two keys, 4 bolts, connector fitting plate and hinge (not shown) 2. Electrics kit (control module, rear wiring loom, front wiring loom, additional fuse box, connector housing, fuses, mounting fixings)
3. A picture of some of the work to come 4. Tip: Tape screws to the relevant removed panels in aid of not losing them! (Just remember to remove them from the panel before clipping them back into the car ) 5. Tip: Wrap a flat-bade screwdriver in electrical tape as a soft pry bar (see later images) 6. Tip: Cable tie new looms to existing loom at existing body tie points (see later images)
7. Tip: Use torx allen key from spare wheel tool kit for removing bumper wheel-well screws (they are very difficult to access and not a common tool to own) 8. Tip: Use torque wrench for attaching new bar. If not owned, it can be stored in the spare wheel storage compartment, along with correct socket as an alternative to the crap tyre iron 9. Tip: Use dentist spatula tool as pry bar (rounded edges) (see later images) REMOVAL/FITTING B. INTERIOR TRIM 1. Boot trim
a. Remove boot liner, parcel shelf and compartment retainers (or equivalent rear trim) b. Remove folding luggage hooks (both sides) [2 screws each], pegs (2 on left hand side, one closest to lights on right hand side) [1 screw each]
c. Remove rear trim piece [1 screw] then pulling vertically upwards, sharply (2 clips). These types of clips do make a loud snap sound! It is quite worrying but perfectly normal.
2. Back seats a. Remove ISOFIX caps b. Remove ISOFIX shrouding c. Remove seat base by lifting vertically upwards at front (2 clips). Then carefully - unclip upholstery (image shows clips which may grab into upholstery. Slip your hand in to release
d. Remove retaining cover and seat mount clip [1 screw] by inserting screwdriver to unclip the cover then rotating up and through seats (you may need to move the seats up and down in order to do this, it is a faff) Remove torx screw and rotate seat mount clip off in the same fashion. Parts pictured for reference
e. Remove seat back by pulling left hand side out of mount then sliding off pin 3. LHS trim rear, part names REFERNECE IMAGE:
a. Remove pillar C top by inserting screwdriver, unclipping top then sliding out bottom Interior view of panel for reference (top clips popped off), showing how bottom slides out
b. Remove pillar C wheel arch [1 pin 1 nut] then by pulling horizontally away from the car body, from top to bottom, unclipping in the process (may require levering with screwdriver). Part pictured with location of the clips for reference: Remove these first (these are positioned under the rear seat base)
c. Remove pillar C middle section [1 screw] by prying horizontally from back to front (ensure pulling as horizontal as possible due to tight fit and long length pins) Location of clips and pins for reference (note the bottom clips must pass through the carpet on reinstallation)
d. Remove left hand side boot carpet trim (2 connectors) by prying outwards and gently pulling carpet away from side panel, over fixing points. Gentle pulling allows for unplugging of connectors
The following image highlights the obstructions in the removal of the carpet for reference 4. LHS trim front a. Remove centre dash left trim by inserting dentist tool prybar then pulling away from dash
b. Remove glove box by opening glove box then inserting screwdriver through hole to unclip damper. Close glove box most of the way then pull up and outwards sharply (or wiggle) to release from hinges c. Remove glove box surround [6 screws] (2 connectors simple clips/catches, multiple radio connectors see image for help, AC hose may need screwdriver to help wiggle off)
d. Remove bonnet lock release handle [1 retaining clip] by pulling handle towards you (the action of opening the bonnet). Hold in this position and use screwdriver to pull retaining clip out. It may fall into trim do not worry. The handle should then easily detach from the trim This appears quite difficult on first try, but ensure you are pulling the handle fully and use a torch to first locate the clip, then pushing it outwards with a screwdriver (towards the front of the car)
e. Remove pillar A lower trim [1 pin] by removing pin and pulling top part outwards, bottom part upwards
C. EXTERIOR TRIM 1. Lights a. Remove light surround trim by pulling outwards b. Remove lights [2 screws each] (1 connector each) by gently wiggling and pulling outwards to release plastic pins from retaining holes (on the left side of the body). These can be quite tight
2. Bumper a. Remove wheel well screws [4 each side]. Three are visible, one is under protective material between bumper and trim (almost vertical)
b. Remove bumper underside screws [8 total], 6 easily visible, 2 closest to wheels are slightly more difficult to see (only 2 on sides are shown in images for reference) c. Unclip sides by gently pulling outwards (ensure no screws still in - do not force!)
d. Unclip rear catches by pushing in clips with screwdriver, then pulling bumper forwards e. Release reverse sensor connectors and clips (if applicable) f. CUT BUMPER (check dimensions around 22cm, there should be a faint raised section showing the outline of the cut required already on the bumper), cut using chosen method - knife, tidy up by filing)
It does not have to be perfect as it is not visible! (Almost perfect will do )
3. Bumper reinforcement bar a. Remove LHS and RHS [3 screws left, 4 screws right], may require digging out sealant b. Prise away from sealant starting at the bottom, then lift bar up (it is hooked on)
4. New towbar and bumper reinforcement bar a. Cut slots or remove square cut-outs of protective coating in frame rails in order to inset bolts b. Insert towbar and screw in [4 screws - torque 60Nm). Check the necessary depth as there are multiple fixing holes (in Octavia III hatchback case you should see the spare holes) c. Assemble socket mounting point, ensuring correct tightness to be easily retractable, but locking in nature (follow assembly instructions/guess as it is near-impossible to explain through photos)
D. ELECTRICS 1. Rear a. Remove the plug in the car boot base and insert new cable with existing grommet. Ensure proper seal b. Feed rear cable and run over tow bar away from exhaust, fix with cable ties and cut excess
c. Cut off useless boot (check instructions!) and feed through socket mount d. Attach socket to connector housing and mount ensuring adequate and proper sealing
e. Insert grounding connectors into local grounding point (10mm) [3 grounding points, 2 low 1 up high]
f. Plug all tailing leads into control box g. Mount box to wheel arch (hook and loop (Velcro) used and nylon spacer locks are optional, I just happened to own them and they worked perfectly to lock the box into place)
2. Feed cables through interior trim a. Run front loom next to existing looms. Tape cables to a mouse (hard, flexible piece of thin material wood), ready for feeding through pillar B trim panel and gently feed through b. Remove mouse and continue to feed new loom alongside existing loom, using cable ties as suggested in earlier tips
3. Front a. Remove battery GND terminal (10mm) b. Remove fuse box main (lower) connector by pressing clip and pulling white shrouding downwards
c. Remove BCM connectors (all three makes for easier work) by pressing small clips in with a screwdriver, pulling down lever and releasing connector (put your hand upwards from next to fuse box) d. Pull BCM connectors A (left) and C (right) into foot well for access then cut retention cable ties and press clips to remove pin trays from connector body
e. Observe pin numbers moulded into connectors and the corresponding wiring colours f. Use tweezers to remove appropriate pins, replace with new trailer loom pins (follow instructions!)
g. Place existing pins into relevant new loom connectors (provided) and tuck connectors above pin trays
h. Reinsert into BCM connectors and attach with cable ties i. Plug BCM connectors back into sockets (a royal pain in the ass)
j. Unclip fuse box k. Plug additional fuse box tails into rear connectors (numbered), observing numbers on the back of the fuse box
l. Place fuses into additional fuse box m. Clip and snap tail wires into additional fuse box rear
n. Reclip fuse box and reinsert fuse box main (lower) connector through shrouding o. Cable tie to existing looms ensuring no strain on any cables or connectors, and no fouling of air filter/ducting/fixings
p. Place additional fuse holder in appropriate space It is done! Installation of panels is in the reverse order. No pictures are provided by the order is listed here for reference: E. INSTALLATION EXTERIOR TRIM 1. Bumper (electrical connectors) [8 underside screws] [4 wheel-well screws each] 2. Lights [2 screws each] 3. Light surround trim (clips) INTERIOR TRIM 1. Glove box surround (2 simple connectors, multiple radio connectors, AC hose) [6 screws] 2. LHS trim front a. Insert pillar A lower trim [1 pin] b. Insert clip into boot lock handle and reclip by simply pressing back into pin c. Insert glove box surround (2 connectors, radio, AC hose) [6 screws] d. Insert glove box and clip damper (extend damper first), attach hinges, then clip damper on with screwdriver e. Insert centre dash left trim (clips) 3. LHS trim rear a. Insert left hand side boot carpet trim (2 connectors), careful to feed all fixing through capet b. Insert pillar C middle section [1 screw], careful again to place clips through carpet c. Insert pillar C wheel arch [1 plastic hand nut, 1 pin] d. Insert pillar C top (clips) 4. Back seats a. Insert seat back (pin and retainer)
b. Insert retaining cover and clip [1 screw] c. Insert seat base (clips) d. Insert ISOFIX clips e. Insert ISOFIX shrouding 5. Boot trim a. Insert rear trim piece (clips) [1 screw] b. Insert folding luggage hooks (both sides) [2 screws each], pegs (both left hand side, one closest to back right hand side) [1 screw each] c. Insert boot liner, parcel shelf and compartment retainers (or equivalent rear trim) F. COMPLETE 1. Completed work (tow-hitch in)
2. Completed work (tow-hitch out) - invisible! 3. View of tools required G. CODING (VCDS) The electrics should all work as-is; however for the car to detect and adjust systems, coding is required in multiple modules. This turns off rear-parking sensors, sets up the car alarm, enables traction control, disables eco-mode etc. (when the car detects trailer electrics are attached). The chosen tool to complete this is VCDS from Ross-Tech. Either a Micro-CAN or HEX+CAN interface cable is required. These can be purchased or rented. Review VCDS instructions if you are not confident! Perform an auto-scan and save the log file before attempting long coding. These instructions are adapted from pncarrerars on Briskoda forum with updated instructions since VCDS version is now up to 16 with different labels.
1. Enable 69-Trailer in CAN gateway (Select control module > 19-CAN Gateway > Tick 69 Trailer ) Tip: When continuing with the next steps (long coding), you can check the module being coded by comparing the titles of the input boxes in the instructions (in the example below, 5Q0-937-084 ) with your own controller to double check you have selected the correct controller for coding. 2. Enable Byte 1 Bit 1 in BCM (Cent. Elec.) using Long Coding Assist (Select control module > 09-Cent. Elec. > Long Coding Helper > Byte 1 > Tick Trailer Hitch control module installed
3. Enable Byte 5 Bit 4 in Engine (Go to Drivetrain tab > 01-Engine > Long Coding Helper > Byte 5 > Tick Trailer installed 4. Enable trailer stabilisation adaption in ABS (Go to Chassis tab > 03-ABS Brakes > Adaptations > Channel Vehicle and trailer stabilization > Set to activated 5. Change Byte 3 to 01 Trailer Hitch Installed in Park Assist (Go to Electronics 1 tab > 76-Park Assist > Long Coding Helper > Byte 3 > Set to 01 Trailer Hitch installed (manually removable) 6. Change Byte 3 to appropriate option and Byte 1 to 01 Trailer connector diagnosis active in Trailer (Go to Electronics 1 tab > 69-Trailer > Long Coding Helper > Byte 3 > (select appropriate option, usually 00 Terminal 30 Output (Pin 9) 02 Terminal 30 Output (Pin 9) active when Trailer connected > Byte 1 > Set to 01 Trailer Connector Diagnosis active
7. (Instructions extracted from forum post only! Not performed on my car). Change Byte 16 to 01 Trailer Recognition Control Module installed in Lane Assistant Camera (Go to A5 Lane Assist Camera > Long Code Helper > Byte 16 > Set to 01 Trailer Recognition Control Module installed