SBD FUEL INJECTION ASSEMBLY AND SET UP INSTRUCTIONS TAPER THROTTLE KIT 2.0L 16V

SBD FUEL INJECTION ASSEMBLY AND SET UP INSTRUCTIONS TAPER THROTTLE KIT 2.0L 16V INTRODUCTION SBD would like to thank you for choosing the taper throttle injection kit. The kit was originally developed by Steve at SBD in 1994 for a customer running a privately funded Touring Car, being very pleased with the result obtained he decided to run a kit on a standard engine. Since then it has proven to be extremely popular in the sprint, circuit and rally scene all around the world. The taper throttle kit LIST is the OF basis COMPONENTS for most of the performance IN YOUR KIT engines and kits produced by SBD and the throttles are also used in the FIA homologated 1997 Opel Astra Mk III kit car kit. The kits are extremely efficient and as a direct replacement of the standard induction system, give an incredible 39% increase in power (provided a suitable exhaust system is used) and an almost road car like driving characteristic, very smooth and progressive. This system is a direct replacement for the Standard GM 2.0L 16V induction system. It does not use the air mass sensor or air filter box that is fitted to the Standard engine. It fits exactly same as the Standard unit using the same water hose connections. The fuel rail that is fitted to this kit uses a high pressure coupling system called JIC 6. These couplings are specifically designed for use with a highpressure steel braided fuel hose, which is by far safer to use than a standard rubber fuel hose and has a greater tolerance to damage. It is recommended that you use JIC 6 couplings and steel braided fuel hoses when fitting your system because of the increased safety element. There are cheaper alternative coupling and hose systems available, but SBD do not consider these safe enough to use in Motorsport applications. The wiring looms have been specially designed to be as neat as possible and to cover as many applications as possible. These are wiring looms are kept on the shelf and are available in both front & rear wheel drive applications. Our range of front wheel drive applications will fit most models of Vauxhalls & adaptations can made to allow these harness to suit other manufacturers e.g. Ford. For any other manufacturers, adaptor harnesses may be required. Our rear wheel drive loom is also suitable for mid engine cars. Custom made harnesses are available, there would be an additional cost and the manufacturing time for a custom made wiring loom from the time we receive your signed drawing is between 4 & 6 weeks. When ordering your kit most of the components should be in stock, which means that we can usually despatch your kit immediately. 1

IMPORTANT INFORMATION YOU WILL NEED TO KNOW There are many references to cylinder numbers in this document. The position of No. 1 cylinder is the cylinder nearest to the camshaft belt end of the engine and therefore No. 4 position is situated at the flywheel end of the engine. The air temperature sensor should be mounted so it will measure ambient air temperature & not engine bay temperature. If in a kit car then somewhere low in the engine bay. If in an Escort/Manta/Astra/Nova type car, then through the inner wing or in behind bulkhead. No. COMPONENT QUANTITY SIZE DESCRIPTION 1. Inlet manifold 1 N/A Taper inlet manifold 2.0L 16V 2. Throttle body 4 45mm Throttle body complete with lever arms 3. Cap head bolt 16 M5X16 Fixing bolt for throttle body 4. Plain washer 16 M5 Washer for throttle body fixing bolt 5. Spring washer 16 M5 Washer for throttle body fixing bolt 6. Rubber O ring 4 53mm Sealing ring for throttle bodies 7. Water elbow 1 N/A Inlet manifold water outlet elbow 8. Rubber O ring 1 23MM Sealing ring for water elbow 9. Cap head bolt 2 M5X20 Fixing bolts for water elbow 10. Throttle potentiometer 1 N/A Sensor for measuring throttle position 11. 3 pin Sureseal socket 1 N/A Electrical socket for throttle potentiometer 12. Clamping plate 1 N/A Throttle potentiometer clamping plate 13. Hex head bolt 2 M4X25 Throttle potentiometer clamp bolt 14. Spring washer 2 M4 Washer for throttle potentiometer clamp bolt 15. Fuel rail 1 N/A JIC ( 6) high pressure fuel rail 16. Injector clip 4 N/A Securing clip for injector / fuel rail 17. Fuel regulator 1 N/A Fuel pressure regulator fir JIC ( 6) fittings 18. Fuel regulator coupling 2 JIC ( 6) 1/8 NPTF JIC ( 6) fuel coupling 19. Fuel regulator blank 1 N/A 1/8 NPTF fuel regulator blanking plug 20. MBE E.C.U 1 N/A Electronic management system 21. E.C.U program 1 N/A Engine parameters for control unit 22. Wiring loom 1 N/A Electrical wiring for injection system 23. 4 pin ignition coil 1 N/A Ignition coil for distributorless ignition 24. Air temperature sensor 1 N/A Measures intake air temperature 25. Ram pipe 4 48X90mm Ram pipe for throttle body 26. Cap head bolt 8 M5X25 Fixing bolts for ram pipes 27. Plain washer 8 M5 Washer for ram pipe bolts 28. Spring washer 8 M5 Washer for ram pipe bolts 2

SBD Plumbing of fuel system with swirl pot (Recommended) FUEL TANK Top connector - Overflow back to tank Low Press. Pump Carb type Swirl Pot Return line 12mm cotton braided hose Blank or pressure take off Fuel regulator F U E L R A I L I N J E C T O R S All hose in this box 8mm cotton braided Low press. Pre pump filter High press. pump High press. Pump Must be mounted below level of Swirl pot to allow for gravity feed High press. filter Notes. 1. On long runs use Teflon braided hose. 2. On short runs use rubber braided hose. 3. Use straight connectors where possible as they are approx. 1/3 of the price of angled ones. 4. High-pressure & Return to swirl pot use JIC 6 couplings. 3

SBD Plumbing of fuel system without swirl pot FUEL TANK Return line Fuel regulator F U E L R A I L I N J E C T O R S Low press. Pre pump filter High press. pump High press. pump must be mounted Below level of fuel tank. High press. filter 4

WHITE/BLACK = IGN/DRIVE 1 WHITE = +12V WHITE/GREEN = IGN/DRIVE 2 5

Coil connection for HT leads For use with: - Sagem/Valeo/Bosch/Siemans/Lucas coils Cyl No 2 or 3 Cyl No 2 or 3 Cyl No 1 or 4 Cyl No 1 or 4 3 or 4 pin Loom connection These coil packs, when used with the MBE ECU, use a wasted spark system. Both cylinders spark at the same time. That is why you can install 1 & 4 on either post & the same for 2 & 3. ***Please note*** DO NOT use this arrangement on the standard Corsa coil 6

OTHER PARTS YOU WILL NEED TO ASSEMBLE YOUR KIT 1. Inlet manifold gasket. 2. M8 copper nuts (x8) for fixing inlet manifold to cylinder head. 3. M8x20mm Cap head bolt for fixing inlet manifold to cylinder head. 4. Injectors (x4). Refer to Step 12 to confirm which injectors you should use. 5. Air box / filter and backing plate. 6. JIC ( 6) fuel couplings. 7. Steel braided high-pressure fuel hose. 8. 1/8 BSP taper 8mm push fit coupling for water bleed 9. Thread locking compound (Loctite 243 recommended). SPECIAL TOOLS YOU WILL NEED TO ASSEMBLE YOUR KIT Digital voltmeter Fuel pressure test gauge Syncrometer (Vacuum gauge), see right Soldering iron or gun Pair of electrical terminal crimps TAPER FUEL INJECTION INLET MANIFOLD 2.0L 16V 4 3 2 1 TAPER FUEL INJECTION THROTTLE BODIES 4 3 2 4 3 1 2 1 BRAKE SERVO MODIFICATION If you are using a brake servo on your vehicle you will need to carry out this modification now before assembly of the bodies. For full instructions see page 9 of this instruction manual. To get the maximum out of your kit it is recommended that you have your inlet manifold matched to the inlet mouths of your cylinder head. If you intend to do any porting on the manifold, it must be done now! 7

4 View on arrow (Underside) 3 Drill 2 x 1/8 diameter holes to meet 8.75mm hole BE CAREFULL AS THERE IS NOT MUCH ROOM FOR ERROR. Drill 8.75mm Diameter hole. Tap 1/8 BSP Taper thread For servo connector 2 1 8

Assembly procedure STEP 1 You will need parts 1,2,3,4 & 5 for steps 1 4 Note this is only a temporary fit. Do not use part 6 yet Using parts 3,4 & 5, assemble No. 4 throttle body to No. 4 port on the inlet manifold, ensuring that the lever arms are at the top as shown. 1 STEP 2 Offer No. 3 throttle body to No. 3 port on the inlet manifold with the lever arm at the top. Cut operating arm as reqd and on re assembly ensure you are able to fully open butterfly freely. Note one of the levers on throttle No. 3 has 2 extensions; these are for the throttle cable to attach to (this is the primary operating lever). Note the extension that is going away from the inlet manifold (shown in 4) as this will have to be cut off at a later stage. 2 STEP 3 Offer No. 2 throttle body to the inlet manifold with the lever arm at the top as before. Cut operating arm as reqd again after re assembly checking for free operation of butterfly. Repeat with body no.1 3 STEP 4 Once all 3 throttle body levers have been cut to length, remove all of the throttles from the inlet manifold. You will now need throttle body No. 3 as the primary lever must have one of the extensions cut down or it will foul the airbox / filter backplate. To do this, remove the lever arm from the throttle body by undoing the grub screw from underneath the lever and gently lever it off & cut as shown Note It is very important that before removing the lever you carefully note the position of the return spring, in order to ensure correct fit later on. 9 4

STEP 5 You will need part 6 for steps 5 & 6 Now you are ready to assemble your throttle system First you must make sure that all of the components you are assembling are thoroughly cleaned. Starting with No. 3 throttle body, fit the O ring into the groove on the bottom face of the body, stretching the seal slightly helps it locate into the groove. Do not use any kind of sealing compound on this seal. Now place the throttle on the inlet manifold in the No. 3 position ensuring the levers are at the top as before, and the O ring stays in place. Fix the throttle into place using parts 3,4 & 5 and tighten evenly. 5 STEP 6 Now fit throttle No. 2 onto the inlet manifold in position No. 2, following the same instructions as for fitting No. 1 throttle. When No. 2 throttle is fitted, ensure that the operating lever from No. 2 body fits in between the balancing screw and the throttle lever spring (shown in 2), and again ensure the O ring is fitted correctly by looking down the throttle. Fit throttles No. 3 & 4 into position being careful to ensure correct positioning of the O ring and lever arms as before. STEP 7 You will need parts 7,8 & 9 Place the throttle system upside down on a table (so the injector pockets face downwards), you should notice a mounting next to the No. 1 position on the inlet manifold. This mounting is where the water elbow must be fitted. You will see a circular groove for part 8 to be fitted. Smear a small amount of Vaseline on the O ring and fit into the groove on the inlet manifold, & using parts 9 fix the elbow into position, using thread locking compound on the bolt threads (Loctite 242 recommended). Ensure the O ring stays in position when the elbow is fitted. 6 Fit water elbow to here 7 You will need parts 10,11,12,13,14 & 15 for steps 8-12 Depending on the type of vehicle this system is being fitted to, the throttle potentiometer can be fitted to either No. 1 or No. 4 throttle body. For most kit car and front wheel drive applications the throttle potentiometer will be fitted onto throttle No. 4. This position will be determined by where the connecting socket is fitted on the wiring loom. Refer to your wiring loom drawing for confirmation. 1 3 2 10

STEP 8 The throttle potentiometer will need the 3 pin sure seal connector fitted to it. First make sure you have about 25mm of the red, yellow & green cables protruding out the end of the black cable shield. Strip 5mm of cable outer off of each of the three wires and tin each wire using a soldering iron or gun. Now using a crimping tool fit the electrical pins to each of the 3 wires, being careful to ensure the correct pin is fitted to each wire. Solder each terminal onto its wire once it has been crimped. Pin 1 Green wire Male pin Pin 2 Yellow wire Female pin Pin 3 Red wire Female pin 3 1 2 8 STEP 9 The terminals will now need inserting into the rubber Sure seal socket, this is done by spraying some silicon spray (or equivalent) on the terminals and into the rubber socket, and then evenly pushing the terminals into position from the back. Be careful to ensure the correct pin is fitted into the correct position. The sockets, when fitted correctly, should be flush with the inside rubber part of the connector & the pin level with them. The throttle potentiometer is now ready to be fitted onto the throttle system. Note The pin positions are marked on the rubber sure seal at both ends. 9 STEP 10 NOTE If the throttle potentiometer is being fitted to No. 4 throttle body follow the instructions in this Step. If your throttle potentiometer is being fitted to No. 1 throttle body go straight to Step 11. The throttle potentiometer will only operate correctly if fitted the correct way around. For fitting to No.4 throttle body the throttle potentiometer must be mounted with the lip on the side, facing outwards, and the clamping plate will then fit on over the lip. Note Do not fit parts 12,13 & 14 yet. Now go straight to Step 12. 10 11

STEP 11 NOTE Follow the instructions in this step only if your throttle potentiometer is being fitted to No. 1 throttle body. The throttle potentiometer will only operate correctly if fitted the correct way around. For fitting to No.1 throttle body the throttle potentiometer must be mounted with the lip on the side facing inwards (as shown in Fig 24), and the clamping plate will then fit against the outside of the potentiometer. Note Do not fit parts 12,13 & 14 yet. 11 Important Please read the following carefully, as failure to do so may result in damage to your system. To confirm that the throttle potentiometer is fitted correctly, you will need to gently hold the throttle potentiometer with your hand, and then slowly open the butterflies using the primary operating lever. If the throttle potentiometer is fitted correctly you should be able to achieve full throttle without the throttle potentiometer body moving. If the body does move then fit the throttle potentiometer on the other way around and repeat this step. Fit part 12 and then screw parts 13 & 14 onto the throttle body until they just begin to tighten. Do not tighten parts 13 & 14 yet as the throttle potentiometer will need adjusting later on. Yellow Injector - Peco INJ-480P Cream Injector 0280 150 744 Blue Injector INJ-744-P 12 STEP 13 Bosch Green 0280 150 803 injectors cannot be used with 967 ECU STEP 12 You will need a set of injectors (not supplied with kit) and parts 15 & 16 for step 26-30. The next step is to fit the fuel rail, injectors and injector clips. You will need first to confirm the type of injector you should use for your kit. Refer to table on page 18 Fit the injectors to the fuel rail by applying a small amount of lubrication to the rubber O rings, ensuring that the O ring fits squarely into the cup. Once the injector is fitted, fit the injector clip onto the top of the injector making sure that the lip on the injector cup locates into the cut out on the injector clip, also making sure the injector clip locates into the top groove on the top of the injector. 13 STEP 14 To fit the fuel rail and injectors, which were assembled in the Steps 12 & 13, first you must remove the top right throttle body fixing screw on No4 throttle and also the top left throttle body fixing screw on No1 throttle. 14 12

STEP 15 The fuel rail with injectors can now be fitted into position (lubricate with Vaseline or a small amount of spit works well) by locating the bottom of the injectors into the pockets in the inlet manifold and gently pushing on the fuel rail at both ends. The injectors will only press in so far until the mounting arms on the fuel rail rest against the throttle bodies. Refit the fixing screws removed in Step 14 and tighten evenly. 15 STEP 16 Fit the throttle system to the cylinder head using a new inlet manifold gasket and new copper nuts (not supplied). Do not use any sealing compound. It is recommended that you remove the front lower stud as the shoulder of a copper nut will foul on the inlet manifold, not allowing it to be tightened. Replace the stud with a M8x20 cap head bolt applying a small amount of thread locking compound to the bolt when fitting (Loctite 243 recommended). As mentioned earlier the water outlets on the inlet manifold are positioned the same as the outlet on the original equipment, this means that you should be able to use the original rubber hoses and connecting pipe without having to make any modifications (where applicable). 16 STEP 17 You will need a 1/8 BSP taper 8mm push fit coupling for this step (not supplied). The tapped hole in the inlet manifold as shown, is where an 1/8 BSP taper 8mm push fit coupling will need to be fitted, it is the same coupling that is fitted to the Standard inlet manifold. The tapped hole and the coupling are both tapered, so caution should be taken not to over tighten the coupling, which could damage the inlet manifold and cause it to leak. This coupling is the bleed for the cooling system to help prevent air locks in the system. The hole, shown arrowed in red, is an 8 x 1.25mm tapped hole. This hole is where the alternator s top mounting bracket should be fitted (for most applications). This hole is located in the same position as the hole in the Standard inlet manifold. For alternator stabiliser 17 13

18 From fuel Rail (can come from either side) Return to Fuel tank STEP 18 You will need parts 17,18 & 19, some fuel couplings and fuel hose (not supplied) for steps 18-20. You need to decide where the regulator will be mounted & from which side the fuel line will be coming from Carefully screw parts 18 & 19 into the fuel regulator, ensuring the blank is on the opposite side from the fuel line, applying a small amount of thread locking compound (Loctite 243 recommended) onto the threads to ensure the couplings seal. Be very careful when tightening the couplings, the tapped hole in the regulator and the couplings are both tapered, and even if slightly over tightened this could cause the fuel regulator housing to crack, which will cause it to leak. Note Do not fit the blanking plug into the bottom (outlet) of the regulator. Doing this will cause the regulator to operate incorrectly and may damage the unit. NOTE The vacuum pipe fitted to the top of the fuel regulator is not used with this kit and can be left vented to atmosphere. The domed nut at the top of the fuel regulator is a locking nut. When the nut is removed it will reveal a brass centre, which has a slot in the top. This is the adjusting screw for the fuel pressure. When adjusting the fuel pressure as described in Setting up instructions, you will need to turn the adjusting screw clockwise to increase the pressure and anticlockwise to reduce the pressure. 18a 14

Step - 19 Connect loom to various components as labelled. The injector plugs can go onto any injector as they all fire together (Grouped injection). The air temp sensor should measure ambient air temp so should be mounted away from engine heat. Connection of interface wires: - Pin 1 Purple or Red Switched +12v (Ignition) Pin 2 Orange +12v out to fuel pump Pin 3 Green Taco signal 967E only: - Pin 4 Blue/White or White Gear change light Connect either way as described in step 20. 15

Step - 20 Installation of a gear change lamp To install a large gear change lamp Relay connections Pin no. 85 - Connect to interface sure seal pin no. 4 Pin no. 86 - Connect to ignition switched +12V Pin no. 87 - Connect to gear change lamp Pin no. 30 - Connect to ignition switched +12V Battery - + 30 87 85 86 Gear change Lamp Ign Switch Interface Pin 4 If using a small L.E.D. then a relay is not required Interface Pin 4 + Gear change light Battery 16

Setting up procedure It is very important to read first and understand the complete set up procedure in order to enable you to set up your throttle system accurately. You should have some assistance for the setting up. All of the steps in the setting up procedure are very critical to ensure correct and efficient running of your kit. Failure to accurately follow any part of these instructions will result in your kit not performing to its optimum. Grub screws & Locknut Throttle stop screw STEP 1 Visual alignment of butterflies Unscrew throttle stop screw on no. 3 so that it is off of the operating arm and the butterfly is fully closed. Visually adjust remaining butterflies to fully closed by loosening locknut in-between bodies & adjusting grub screw. Do not lock the screws yet, as you will have to adjust them again after starting the engine. STEP 2 Initial setting for throttle potentiometer Switch on your ignition only. Do not attempt to start your engine yet! Tighten throttle potentiometer clamping screws sufficiently so you are still just about able to move the potentiometer with your fingers. Using a voltmeter probe the back of the throttle pot. sure seal on the Red wire (Pin 3) and a good earth. Set voltage to 0.25v, by twisting potentiometer (***This is an initial setting & you must not go back to this reading again. ***). Leave the voltmeter connected, as you will need this later. Screw the throttle stop screw clockwise on throttle no. 3 until you reach 0.30v on your voltmeter. STEP 3 Setting fuel pressure Set the fuel pressure by switching the ignition switch (or power switch) ON. This will purge the fuel system by running the fuel pump for approximately 2 seconds. It may be necessary to switch ignition on & off several times in order to obtain the correct pressure reading, as the ECU turns the pump off when the engine is not turning. See chart on page 17 for correct pressure The fuel pressure should be adjusted by turning the adjusting screw on the regulator, clockwise to increase the pressure and anticlockwise to reduce the pressure. If you are using a removable gauge, leave it in the system until after you have the engine idling because the pressure may change once the engine has been running. Fuel pressure adjusting screw Clockwise increase press. Anticlockwise decrease press. 17

Do not start your engine yet! You will first need to set the fuel pressure. Turn ignition on & off to build up pressure as ECU cuts fuel pump when engine is not turning. TP Kit Fuel Pressure Injector No. Idle RPM/Kg/Ph Cam Profiles TP208 2.0L 16v XE 50 psi 0280 150 744 980 / 4.8 Standard TP225 2.0L 16v XE 60 psi 0280 150 744 980 / 5.5 SBD284IN @ 2.77mm, SBD278EX @2.57mm TP235M 2.0L 16v XE 50 psi INJ-480P 1050 / 6.5 SBDM295-11.6IN @ 4mm, SBDM295-11.6EX @ 4mm TP235 2.0L 16v XE 50 psi 0280 150 803 1050 / 6.5 SBD230IN @ 3.8mm, SBD220EX @ 3.1mm TP250M 2.0L 16v XE 50 psi INJ-480P 1050 / 6.5 SBD304IN @ 4.40mm, SBDM295-11.6EX @ 3.95mm TP252 2.0L 16v XE 60 psi 0280 150 744 (to 03/98) 1050 / 6.5 SBD230IN @ 3.8mm, SBD220EX @ 3.1mm TP252 2.0L 16v XE 50 psi 0280 150 803 (98-00) 1050 / 6.5 SBD230IN @ 3.8mm, SBD220EX @ 3.1mm TP270 2.0L 16v XE 50 psi 0280 150 803 (to 2000) 1050 / 6.5 SBD1195IN @ 4.6mm, SBD304EX @ 4.6mm TP270 2.0L 16v XE 50 psi INJ-480P 1150 / 6.5 SBD1195IN @ 4.6mm, SBD304EX @ 4.6mm TP280 2.0L 16v XE 50 psi 0280 150 803 (to 2000) 1150 / 6.5 SBD1195IN @ 4.6mm, SBD304EX @ 4.6mm TP280 2.0L 16v XE 50 psi INJ-480P 1150 / 6.5 SBD1195IN @ 4.6mm. SBD304EX @ 4.6mm TP285 2.0L 16v XE 50 psi INJ-480P 1150 / 6.5 SBD1195IN @ 4.6mm, SBD304EX @ 4.6mm TP292 2.0L 16v XE 50 psi INJ-480P 1150 / 6.5 SBD1195IN @ 4.6mm, SBD304EX @ 4.6mm Note As the fuel pressure may vary slightly between a static pressure check and a check when the engine is running, you will be need to recheck and adjust your fuel pressure later when the engine is running. Injector Types Yellow Injector - Peco INJ-480P Bosch Green 0280 150 803 injectors cannot be used with 967 ECU Cream Injector 0280 150 744 Blue Injector INJ-744-P 3 options for installing pressure gauge to set fuel pressure Option 1 Using an adjustable fuel regulator with our fuel pressure gauge FPG1 From fuel rail Option 2 using an adjustable Fuel regulator with an in-line fuel pressure testing kit. Option 3 Using fuel regulator FR-3.5 & FR-MT that should produce the correct pressure, however it can be tested with an in line fuel pressure-testing kit should problems occur. From fuel rail From fuel rail 18

Step 4 Starting engine for the first time When idle voltage & fuel pressure have been set, you can attempt to start the engine. You may have to hold the throttle to keep engine running. To get the engine to run on its own you can screw the throttle stop clockwise slightly (Ensuring you do not go above the 0.37v & don t go more than approx 2 units higher or 1 unit lower than the idle Kg/Ph setting for your kit) until engine runs on its own, even if it s not smoothly. Step 5 Balancing the throttle bodies to read the same Engine revs may increase during this stage, unscrew the throttle stop to decrease revs (you can re set pot voltage in next step) to keep it within 2 units above required Kg/Ph setting for your kit. You now need to balance the butterflies using the syncrometer. Start by reading airflow through no.3 body, Adjust No.4 to read the same, then No.2 & then No.1. When all 4 throttles read the same amount of airflow they are balanced. You can now do up the locknuts on the grub screws. Re check airflow & re adjust as necessary. 19

Step 6 Fine tuning airflow & throttle potentiometer You will have to do this step a few times to get everything right. It s worthwhile spending extra time & taking care on this stage because if everything is not correct then engine will not idle properly With the engine still running, butterflies balanced insert the syncrometer on No.3 body & set the correct amount of Kg/Ph airflow for your kit (by adjusting throttle stop screw). Once you have the correct amount of Kg/Ph, re set the throttle potentiometer to read 0.37v. Keep checking & adjusting until Kg/Ph airflow & throttle potentiometer are correct for your kit. (RPM will be correct when Kg/Ph is set) Tighten the throttle potentiometer clamp so that it can t move. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN AS THIS WILL DAMAGE POTENTIOMETER Re check all readings again & re adjust as necessary. 20

2.0l TP CABLE INSTRUCTIONS M6 BOLT SHORTENED IN LENGTH AND A HOLE DRILLED THROUGH THE HEAD. NYLOCK ON OTHER SIDE. 12 The outer cable pushes the operating lever Ø 2.5 30 Ø 6 21 5