Turner Motorsport Inc, 16 Hunt Road South, Amesbury, MA 01913 978-388-7769 / www.turnermotorsport.com DI 11/24/09 GSP SMG Brake Pedal for E46 M3 SMG This pedal assembly replaces the stock pedal arm on an E46 M3 with the SMG transmission. The solid mounting to the firewall, brass bushings, and tubular steel arm give a more direct and solid feel when braking. And the wider drilled aluminum pedal helps to facilitate left-foot braking on the racetrack. This pedal assembly bolts directly to the firewall of the car with a machined forged aluminum bracket. The installation involves removing the old pedal assembly and mounting and aligning the GSP pedal. The factory brake light switch is moved to a new bracket but all other attachments remain as factory. Minor trimming of a plastic interior panel (unseen unless you re looking under the dash) and trimming of the factory sound deadening is required. Bleeding the brakes is not required after this install. Fits the following BMWs: 2001-2006 E46 M3 with SMG transmission Install time: Approximately 1-2 hours depending on mechanical abilities and condition of automobile. Parts list for kit: 1 GSP brake pedal assembly (pre-assembled) 1 matching gas pedal cover with hardware 1 brake sensor bracket 1 adjustable brake pedal stop (not required) 1 snap-ring pliers 2 snap rings for brake booster arm 1 13mm Nyloc nut and washer for brake switch bracket Recommended tools: medium-sized flathead screwdriver medium-sized Phillips screwdriver ratchet with 13mm thin-walled socket 6 or 9 extension X-Acto knife, razor, or other cutting instrument to slice sound-deadening Sharpie marker Snap-ring pliers (included with kit) hacksaw, right-hand angle grinder, or file (for trimming plastic knee bolster) 1/8 drill bit (for installing matching gas pedal cover, optional)
Directions: 1. Park your car in a safe, level and well-lit location where the driver s door can be opened all the way. Car should be off with parking brake on. Move driver s seat back all the way to give yourself room. Floor mat makes for a good thing to kneel on. 2. Lower knee bolster by removing Phillips screws, a plastic push-rivet and a quarter-turn plastic screw. The plastic push-rivet can be removed by prying the center pin out using a flat-head screwdriver. Remove all wires connected to knee bolster. The OBD II connector wires can be removed by sliding the grey clip horizontally. Remove knee bolster. 3. Using a flat-head screwdriver, pry off the clip that secures the brake booster to the factory pedal arm (see picture). Just lift the clip slightly and slide it off. 4. Remove the qty (3) 13mm nuts that hold the factory brake pedal assembly to the car. Lower the pedal assembly down to give you better access to the brake pedal switch. You will need to wiggle the brake booster arm and the pedal assembly a bit to free the brake booster arm from the assembly. Turner Motorsport GSP Pedal Install 1
5. As the brake pedal arm assembly is lowered down, remove the center of the brake light switch from the brake pedal switch housing. There is no need to remove the wires from the switch (see picture). 6. Remove the black plastic brake light switch housing from the factory pedal assembly and place it in the new supplied brake light switch bracket (see picture). Note: Some pedal kits shipped with a threaded rubber stop designed to be screwed into the welded nut shown in the picture above. That rubber stop is not necessary in the Gen III pedal kit and can be discarded. Turner Motorsport GSP Pedal Install 2
7. Time to trim the sound-deadening. The GSP Gen III pedal assembly is a bit bigger than the factory pedal assembly. It is important that the pedal rest flush against the metal of the car and that no sound-deadening material gets sandwiched between the new pedal assembly and the car. Place the GSP Gen III pedal assembly in place - just hold it by hand for now. Trace the pedal assembly with a Sharpie to mark where to remove the sound-deadening. Material on the firewall and the upper mounting point of the assembly will need to be marked and removed (see picture). Turner Motorsport GSP Pedal Install 3
8. Here is the sound-deadening on the firewall marked... Here is the upper mounting point marked... Turner Motorsport GSP Pedal Install 4
Getting ready to cut the sound-deadening - watch out for wires (and thumbs)... Here is approximately the amount of sound-deadening material that needs to be removed... Turner Motorsport GSP Pedal Install 5
Here is the firewall with the sound-deadening material removed... Here is the upper mounting point with the sound-deadening material removed. Not a lot of material needs to be removed here and be careful of wires when cutting in this location. Turner Motorsport GSP Pedal Install 6
9. Make note of how and where the supplied brake light switch bracket is installed. Note the black plastic brake light switch bracket has been installed from Step 6. 10. Loosely install the qty (2) factory 13mm nuts on the firewall to hold the new pedal assembly in place. Use the supplied 13mm Nyloc nut and washer to hold the brake light switch and top of the assembly in place. Continue to snug the 13mm nuts in place until both are tight. Access to the supplied upper nut is a bit tight. A thin-wall socket will fit. Leave the upper nut a bit loose to adjust the brake light switch. The supplied brake light switch bracket is adjustable in its location. The location that works best is as far towards the rear of the car as possible (see picture.) Turner Motorsport GSP Pedal Install 7
11. Using the supplied cir-clip pliers, install the qty (2) supplied circlips to hold the brake booster arm to the pedal arm (see picture). Note: No return spring is necessary or used with the Gen III pedal kit. 12. Place the center of the brake light switch into the black plastic housing (see picture) but do not insert it all the way. By design its contact point on the pedal arm is adjustable from the factory. With the pedal in its normal resting position, press on the brake light switch. It will micro-click a number of times until it bottoms out on the bracket located off the pedal arm. Test the brake lights before you go any further and adjust as necessary. You may want to start the car to let the brake booster charge up to make sure the pedal height is correct as you adjust the brake light switch. When a position is set, fully tighten the upper 13mm Nyloc nut. Turner Motorsport GSP Pedal Install 8
13. Mark, cut out and trim the knee bolster as shown. Cutting plastic is tricky but can be done a number of ways - everyone has their favorite way. Be careful when using sharp objects. Here is a picture of the trimmed knee bolster... 14. Attach wires back in place and re-install the knee bolster. Turner Motorsport GSP Pedal Install 9
15. Installing the optional accelerator pedal plate. Locate the supplied accelerator pedal plate on the accelerator pedal and drill a hole straight in and out starting with the top hole. Do one hole at a time using the supplied machine screws. The screws will snug down well if you tighten them by hand. Do not use a Phillips bit in your drill as this will increase the odds of stripping the threads. 16. Test drive. Start off slow to get used to the pedal's new and improved feel. Turner Motorsport GSP Pedal Install 10