This document provides instructions for removing and installing a rear shock absorber on a Ducati Superbike with a single-sided swingarm. The torque values used are for the 748/916/996 from 1994 to 2001 and may be applicable for later models. Please double- check the shop manual or Ducati.com for the specific torque values for your model. And before anyone comments about the pictures. We initially tried to see if we could do this without removing the rear tire so the background of the pictures may show the rear tire in place where the verbiage indicates it previously removed. Note: Riding or doing ANY work on your Ducati can result in your skittering along the ground resulting in injuries and/or death. You, the reader alone, are responsible for your life. If, after reading the instructions and looking at your bike, you feel uncomfortable doing this job don t do it. Take your bike to a professional mechanic for the job to be done right. If you decide to do the job yourself; you are responsible for the results not DesmoNorthwest.com, anyone associated with DesmoNorthwest.com, or the author of this article. Tools and materials needed: 8mm Hex (preferably 3/8 drive) 6mm Hex (preferably 3/8 drive) 46mm Socket (or 1 13/16 Socket) Ratchet with 6 extension Torque wrench with capacity greater than 176nm (130 lbf 1/2"f to 3/8 m adapter Possibly a 1/2"f to 3/4"m adapter for the large socket Loctite Blue (or other medium strength threadlocker) Grease with Molybdenum Disulfide (moly) Procedure: 1. While the bike s on the ground: a. remove the tiewrap from the wire retainer clip and remove the clip. b. Using the rear brake to hold the wheel still, loosen the large wheel nut slightly (46mm or 1 13/16 socket).
3. There are several methods to support the bike. The main problem in supporting the bike for this operation is to keep the front tire from lifting off the ground instead of the rear of the bike. a. Rear stand, using tiedowns to support tail section from ceiling joists/rafters. b. A front stand and a steel rod through the frame supported on either side by jack stands. I ve used a 3/8 x 3ft long steel rod for this some bikes the rod can be put through the swingarm pivot shaft. c. My favorite: a Handy lift with the front tire held in the vice and a jack under the motor with a block of wood or thick cardboard between the jack and the oil pan. There are a dozen ways to accomplish this task; just make sure the bike is secure and stable. No matter how you do it it s always good to have a secondary safety or a friend helping to keep the bike from falling on your head. 2. Flip the back of the seat forward up against the tank. At the forward pivot point, remove the rubber connected caps between the ends of the pins. While supporting and slightly rocking the tailsection, remove both pins and the tailsection.
4. Remove the rear wheel. Note the presence of a flat washer under the nut and on top of a beveled insert. Keep track of these parts; you ll need them again later. 5. Using the 6mm hex, remove the left side footrest (2 bolts). Let it hang down. NOTE: For the next steps, it is necessary to support the swingarm to reduce the load when removing, or installing, the lower shock pivot bolt. 6. Using the 8mm hex with the ratchet and 6 extension, lift the chain and insert the hex, under the chain and through the recess in the chain guard, into the lower pivot bolt head. Remove the lower pivot bolt. 7. Lower the swingarm and ensure that the lower ride height adjusting rod collars remain in the lower ride height adjusting rod end. Also ensure that the threaded insert on the right side boss remains inserted into the boss. Align the flat side of the
insert with the machined flat on the swingarm. 8. Using the same hex/extension/ratchet, remove the upper mounting bolt. You ll need to support the shock and possibly lower the shock in order to access the head of the upper pivot bolt. NOTE: You ll probably need to rotate the wiring harness out of the way in order to get access to the bolt. Remove Shock Absorber
9. Preparation for installation: a. Apply moly grease to the non-threaded parts of the shock pivot bolts. b. Apply a thin coat of moly grease to the shock absorber mounting eyes (inner diameter and outer shoulders) and to the same locations on the tie rod mounting collars. There is rubber between the metal eyes and the body of the shock. It wouldn t hurt to spray them with a silicone spray or apply some grease in time; they can start squeaking. NOTE: The grease is used to provide corrosion resistance in situations of metal-to-metal contact in addition to providing lubrication. Use it freely in these situations, but let s not get sloppy with it it will attract dirt and grit and turn into a polishing compound that will start to remove metal and look disgusting. 10. Align replacement shock (or rebuilt shock) upper mount with mounting bosses and insert upper mounting bolt. Hand tighten. NOTE: You ll need to support the swingarm to do this. 11. Align the ride height adjusting rod lower end with the swingarm bosses and insert mounting bolt. Hand tighten.
12. Set torque wrench to 42 Nm or 31 Lbf. And torque the upper and lower shock mounting bolts. 13. Remove all old thread locking compound from footrest bolts, re-apply a drop of Loctite blue or other medium strength threadlocker to the threads of each bolt. Torque bolts to 31Nm or 23 ft/lb. 14. Ensure that the shifter moves freely. It wouldn t be a bad time to remove the shifter rod and lube the heim joint rod ends. 15. Apply grease to the 4 wheel aligning pins on the rear hub. Also apply grease to the spindle and the threads of the spindle, the beveled wheel insert and the flat washer. Place wheel onto spindle and align the pins with the holes located on the wheel. Place beveled insert over spindle, followed by the flat washer and the nut. 16. Torque the spindle nut in increasing values to the max of 176 nm (129 ft/lb). If the holes in the spindle don t match up with a slot in the spindle nut, increase the torque setting on the wrench and tighten just enough to get a hole to line up.
17. Align the clip so that the bend of the wire (that will be inserted through the slot) goes towards the wheel and not towards the end of the spindle. Place the clip into the groove in the spindle nut and the end of the wire retainer into the spindle hole. Thread a tie-wrap through both holes in the clip and tighten. Then cut the tail. Again: Note: Riding or doing ANY work on your Ducati can result in your skittering along the ground resulting in injuries and/or death. You, the reader alone, are responsible for your life. If, after reading the instructions and looking at your bike, you feel uncomfortable doing this job don t do it. Take your bike to a professional mechanic for the job to be done right. If you decide to do the job yourself; you are responsible for the results not DesmoNorthwest.com, anyone associated with DesmoNorthwest.com, or the author of this article. You are a member of www.desmonorhtwest.com If you re uncomfortable doing work like this but would like to learn, post on www.desmonorthwest.com looking for someone who can work with you on this, and other, projects. That s one of the things that www.desmonorthwest.com is there for. Thanks to Alex for the use of his Ducati 748 and for his hand modeling. Mark Buckelew