Kiwi Intake Manifold Tech Cone: Kiwi cones are a snug fit on to the manifold so as to ensure a good seal. Make sure the flat side of the ring (the side that sits against the cylinder) is flat and free of imperfections. Lay ring on a flat plate with some very fine sand paper to ensure a good seal. Check nipple mating surface on cylinder. Composite cones: These are an upgrade over the brass cones as they are more compliant and forgiving to mating surface irregularities while still being able to take the crush pressure of the nut. We highly recommend this upgrade. Nipple: Nipples are locked into place into the cylinder with a rivet which is very important. Some repro cylinder nipples are not staked and use Loctite or sealant however these must be staked otherwise they will unscrew when servicing removing the manifold at a later date. Check nipple face that mates to the cone for being free of imperfections. Do not reuse old or worn cones. Intake manifold gasket and surface: Ensure the body face is flat and there are no imperfections especially between the top screw hole and throttle body as this area is very narrow and susceptible to an air leak. The correct gasket thickness is 1/16. Do not use anything thinner. Mounting screws: Ensure top carburetor screw does not bottom out on the throttle shaft bushing. An easy way to check is to prefit the carburetor and manifold together without the gasket (and just the top screw) and make sure they tighten. If they do not, shorten the screw otherwise this will give a false sense of being tight and an air leak will be present. This could also bind up the throttle shaft. The correct gasket thickness is 1/16. Do not use anything thinner. Assembly: Make sure all surfaces are absolutely clean and use new cones (preferably composite). Make sure no surface imperfections are on the cone, nipple and manifold mating surfaces otherwise an air leak will result. If necessary resurface the mating surfaces. Check outside diameter and roundness of each manifold spigot since quite often they appear ok to the eye but be way out dimensionally. When using brass cones smear a light coat of sealant on the outside diameter of the manifold spiggots before fitting the cone and also smear sealant on the cone taper face. Once these have been fitted together, smear a light coat on the flat side of the cone which mates to the cylinder nipple. No sealant is applied when using composite cones. Make sure manifold is centered evenly between the cylinders. Snug manifold nuts evenly to each cylinder but do not final tighten just yet. Fit carburetor ensuring it is level, Fit carburetor brace and tighten manifold nuts firmly. Manifold to cylinder sealing can be a problem causing air leaks which can lead to burned valves, pistons and general engine overheating. Pay close attention to all the smallest of details.
Linkert Carburetor Kiwi Tech Fuel mixture basics: A too lean mixture will cause overheating, burned valves and pistons, spitting back through the carburetor, hard starting and a lowered top speed. A too rich mixture will cause excessive cylinder bore wear (premature failure), choking of the engine and popping back through the exhaust (an exhaust leak will also do the same so take this into consideration too) and lowered top speed. Float bowl service tech: If too much play has developed between the 3 fingers of the float lever and the head of the needle valve, a lean mixture will result due to the lack of the proper level of gas in the bowl. The needle valve will not open far enough to keep the bowl filled at all times. The clearance between the lever fingers and needle is to be kept at an absolute minimum. Bend fingers if necessary to minimize clearance. Sometimes the fingers may have wear grooves from the needle operation over the years which can be reclaimed by careful hand filing. When adjusting the float level, adjust by bending the lever between the float and pin pivot point while removed from the carburetor. Do not adjust while in carburetor otherwise you risk spreading the fingers which will result in lost motion and incorrect fuel level. This clearance can be easily checked after the lever is assembled into the bowl by carefully placing a small screwdriver or a small rod against the valve head in such a position that it will hold the valve firmly against the seat and yet not bind the lever. By gently moving the lever up and down it will then show the amount of actual clearance between the needle head and fingers. If this clearance is excessive, the float mechanism will not feed fuel properly. The float sideways position within the bowl can vary and should be positioned as follows: Loosen the float lever screw. While looking down into the bowl with the needle and seat side positioned at 12 o clock, pull the float towards the 6 o clock position (usually to the outmost part of the slot) and move it about 1/16 towards
the 9 o clock position (slightly off center to the left). Tighten float lever screw. Make sure outside diameter of float does not make contact with the float bowl otherwise it may hang up and cause flooding. Likewise if it hangs up on the carburetor center portion it too will cause flooding. Also check float for having the same distance from the top of the bowl to the top of the float (not warped). Level accordingly. Some reproduction bowls have been made too small on the insides and some others have a rough finish. Both of these can cause the float to hang up however the rough finish bowls can be reclaimed by sanding the rough spots. Float level: Level is measured from the top part of the bowl to top part of float and opposite the lever. It is usually best to turn the bowl upside down to take this measurement. Make sure needle seat is screwed tightly into the bowl and needle has minimal clearance within the fingers before taking any measurements. For Linkert carburetors when using a cork or composite float, the level is 1/4. When using a brass float the level is 5/16. Schebler carburetor composite float level is 11/32. It is recommended to apply a little sealant to the screw when using a brass float. General tips: If the engine does not idle evenly or idle becomes high when engine is warmed up, check the manifold for air leaks as this is the most likely problem area. With the engine warmed up and running, spray WD40, brake cleaner or a similar product (something not combustible) around the manifold joints both at the carburetor and cylinders. If the idling speed drops when it is sprayed on any of these connections, an air leak is present and needs to be corrected. If the problem still exists after checking the manifold areas, then some other areas to check for is the throttle shaft and valve guides. If the gas cap vents become blocked a vacuum will be set up in the tank and stop the flow of fuel to the carburetor. The fuel flow to the carburetor can be checked by removing the gas line connection at the bowl and by opening each petcock separately. Sometimes when flooding occurs from the float bowl it can be caused by pressurizing in the gas tank (when the petcock is left on). On a very hot day or when the motorcycle is switched off from a ride, the engine heat can heat up the fuel in the tank and cause pressurizing (this is most likely to happen with a partially filled tank rather than a full tank). If the gas cap vent is blocked or malfunctions, it will cause pressurizing. This can be checked by unscrewing the gas cap very slowly and if a pressurizing noise occurs, the cap should be replaced immediately. Pressurizing is dangerous and can lead to tank joints splitting and leaking onto the engine and causing a fire. It can also spray the rider with fuel. Always remove gas caps slowly. Treat pressurizing very seriously. If your engine does start to run abnormally, one of the most obvious things to check for (and the 1st) is to see if there is gas in the tank. On some occasions a low or dying battery will cause the engine to feel like it is running out of gas while riding. This is usually evident at lower engine speeds when the generator is barely keeping up with the charge and the engine barely gets enough juice to power it. It can fool you and it s not too long before it dies completely. An easy check is to turn on the headlight momentarily and if the engine dies it is generally electrically related. Occasionally remove the float bowl
and clean it as moisture or water can accumulate in the bottom of the float bowl and cause carburetion problems. Engine falters during riding: There could be several things that could cause this however it is necessary to determine if it is an electrical problem or a fuel problem. After checking to make sure there is enough gas in the tank and the bikes charging system is ok (a low battery can make the engine seem like it is starving for fuel), click the choke lever 1 notch down to see if that makes a difference. If not try another notch down. If this does make a difference then it could be a fuel related problem. Sometimes on occasion a piece of dirt can get lodged under the high speed needle so by winding it out a turn or 2 it can dislodge the piece of dirt and then the needle can be reset to its original position and all is fixed. Before attempting this, take a note of its original setting so as you can easily go back to it. Another fix is while cruising at speed fully open the throttle and then fully close the choke lever until the engine almost dies, then flip it back open and it too can dislodge small particles that could be causing problems. Try this method a few times before giving up. Sometimes when using original fuel filters, the bowl cork can swell and cut off fuel to the carburetor. Some suppliers choose to use a Harley cork gasket which has the same outside diameter yet has a smaller inside diameter which restricts the fuel flow. Occassionally problems crop up when riding across the US with bad fuels. Brand name fuels mean very little regarding quality however what is most important is how fresh the fuel is or how uncontaminated it is as it is possible to pick up water from some stations. Never fill up if you see a gas tanker refilling the station since this new load of gas can cause sediment in the stations tanks to become stirred up and you can be the unlucky recipient of contaminents (since there are usually no filters on gas pumps). Try and fill up at a busy and well kept station. Hard starting when engine is hot: Some engines are hard to start when hot for no particular reason. Do the following with the ignition on. Open the throttle to the wide open position, give the engine about ½ spark (with the choke off) and start kicking. It will most likely fire up after a few kicks. If it does not fire up after about 10 kicks, try giving it 2/3rds choke for 2-3 kicks. If this fails then go back to the previous method. Hopefully you are fit. Some bikes have their peculiarities and finding the right mix is just a matter of trial and error however this is generally an abnormality and not than the norm. Viton tipped float needles: Viton needles have been offered by some on and off over the years with limited success. It has been rumored at the time of writing of this catalog that upcoming changes in the fuel compositions in the US will damage viton tipped needles over time. While this is inconclusive at this present time, it is certainly worth keeping in mind. We do not know what other or future problems it may cause. Please check our website www.kiwiindian.com for the most up to date information. Body and bowl air bleed hole: When washing off your m/c with water we suggest covering the carburetor and air cleaner assembly with a plastic bag as hose water pressure can enter the air bleed hole (found in the carburetor body and just above the bowl) which will cause the bowl to take in water and cause your motorcycle to not run properly.
Venturi to body match up: Indian venturi s have an air bleed slot that runs from the nozzle hole towards the choke end of the venturi. Some Harley carburetors do not have an air bleed slot in their venturi s however they use an air bleed built into the side of the body (Indians have no body air bleed hole). Do not mix and match venturi s and bodies as your engine will not run properly. Venturi fit: Ensure the venture fits snuggly into the body. Hold carburetor up to the light and look from the choke end and see if there is any light surrounding the venturi. Replace venturi if necessary. Nozzle direction: Flat side of nozzle faces towards the choke end of the carburetor. Hi/Lo speed needles: Ensure these are the correct length and that they seat on their needle tapers and do not bottom out on the knob threads. It is not unusual to come across slightly shorter needles which will not permit you to adjust your carburetor correctly. If you have the needle screwed all of the way in and it does not change your adjustment then this could most likely be the cause.
Throttle shaft disc: Make sure disc is the correct way around. When looking down the throat from the manifold end (and towards the air cleaner), the #13 will be on the right side. You will also notice the disc edges are tapered. The right side tapers towards the air cleaner while the left side tapers towards the manifold. The disc must also be centered into the throat. Ever so slightly nip up the screws and turn shaft so the disc is closed. Look around the parameter of disc to make sure no light can be seen. Now final tighten the screws and reinspect. Body idle plug: There are several different types of plugs that fit Linkert carburetors but the correct one that fits all 344 and later Chief Carburetors has the pronounced titty (3/16 above the plug threads & 3/16 diameter). Other Indian carburetors have different plugs which will be listed on our website www.kiwiindian.com.. Ensure your carburetor body is properly mated with the correct style plug otherwise your Indian will not run properly. Low speed needle valve: Some aftermarket needle valves have been incorrectly assembled into its knob. Remove the screw on the top of the knob and there should be a spring between the screw and the needle head. We have seen this spring wrongly assembled which will not allow the carburetor to be adjusted correctly. Low speed needle valve spring disc: Ensure this disc is fitted under the spring as it affects the proper running of your motorcycle.. There are 2 types which have different diameter air bleed hole diameters. The air bleed hole diameter is differentiated by the different thickness of the disc. The thickness of the disc has nothing to do with the operation as it only serves as a visual way of differentiating between the 2 hole sizes. Both discs have the same overall thickness but the thickness that varies is the flange which the spring actually sits on. The thick disc (.066") has a.111" diameter hole while the thin (.036") disc has a.106" diameter hole. Ensure you have the correct one to match your carburetor. 344 and later carburetors use the thin disc. Carburetor cleaning: When overhauling and cleaning the carburetor especially after it has been sitting for a while, all passages must be thoroughly cleaned out. The best way to do this is by using the correct size drill bit and twist it with your fingers making sure not to remove any of the carburetor body material. Use caution when bottoming out in needle valve seats and passages as you do not want to damage their seats. Carburetor cleaners do not clean out stubborn baked in crud. Adjusting the carburetor Caution: A too lean a mixture will cause overheating at high speed and may cause severe damage including seizing pistons. A too rich a mixture will cause
the oil to be washed off the cylinder walls (bore wash) and lead to excessive and premature cylinder wear. The following was compiled so you can dial your carburetor in easily and properly. All final adjustments must be made with the engine thoroughly warmed up and make all adjustments slowly giving the engine time to respond to the setting adjustments. 1. High Speed Needle Valve 2. Low Speed Needle Valve 3. Choke Lever 4. Idle Speed Screw Turn both needle valves clockwise until they seat using caution not to overtighten as it may damage the needle valve or seat. Turn the high speed needle valve (valve towards the front) counterclockwise 1-1/2 turns. Turn the low speed needle valve (valves towards the rear) counterclockwise 3 to 4 turns. Both these settings are good starting points. Start the engine and thoroughly warm up making sure the choke lever is fully open before starting on any following fine adjustments. With the engine at an idle (throttle closed position), fully retard the spark and adjust the low speed by turning it either clockwise or counterclockwise until the engine smoothes out and fires evenly. Turning this valve clockwise gives the engine a leaner mixture while turning it counterclockwise gives it a richer mixture.
Rev the engine up to about ¼ throttle and hold steady at this rpm to adjust the high speed needle valve. Turn the high speed needle valve clockwise until the engine starts to falter. At this point turn needle valve counterclockwise until the engine runs at its fastest speed. Check this adjustment by retarding the spark and opening the throttle. If the engine backfires through the carburetor it indicates a too lean a mixture and the needle valve should be turned counterclockwise a little. If the engine chokes when the throttle is opened, it indicates a too rich a mixture and the high needle valve should be turned clockwise. When making each adjustment, slowly turn needle valve a notch or 2 at a time giving the engine time to respond. Once settings have been finalized note the needle valve location so as you can return to it if anything should happen. Although the high and low speed needle valves operate independently, they do affect each other. For this reason, return to the low speed needle valve and readjust as in step 4. Adjust idle speed by adjusting the screw on the throttle shaft bell crank. Turning it clockwise increases the engine speed while turning it counterclockwise decreases engine speed. CAUTION: A too lean a mixture will cause overheating at high speed and will cause severe damage including seizing pistons. A too rich a mixture will cause the oil to be washed off the cylinder walls (bore wash) and lead to excessive cylinder wear. Engine Starting Procedure The following illustrates 2 ways to start your bike from a cold start. The preferred method is the fool proof method because you can never flood the engine by over choking it. Using the factory method; if the bike does not fire up when the ignition is turned on can leave you wondering if it is flooded (from over chocking) or does it need more choke. Both methods work and you should use whatever method you are comfortable with. Fool proof method: The advantage of this starting procedure is that if the engine does not start you are never left wondering if you have over choked it or under choked it. Check oil level in tank. Make sure shifter is in neutral and clutch is fully engaged (heel on foot board). Open the fuel petcock and move choke lever to 3 clicks down.
Fully retard spark (left hand twist grip will be anti-clockwise; right hand twist grip will be clockwise). Open throttle about ¼ way, turn ignition on and kick. If engine is in proper tune it should fire on the 3rd kick (some engines may require 4 clicks down while others may require 2 clicks down). Once engine starts, promptly take choke all the way off. If it dies, repeat above procedure but leave choke partially down (1-2 clicks) until it warms up. Advance spark control about 1/2way. Factory method: Check oil level in tank. Make sure shifter is in neutral and clutch is fully engaged (heel on foot board). With the ignition OFF, open the fuel petcock, and fully choke the carburetor (lever all the way down). Fully retard spark (left hand twist grip will be anti-clockwise; right hand twist grip will be clockwise). Fully open throttle and kick 3 times. Reset choke lever to 3 clicks down, open throttle about 1/4 way. Turn ignition ON and kick. If the engine does not fire, repeat this procedure beginning at step 3. Once engine starts, promptly take the choke all the way off. If it dies, repeat above procedure but once it starts leave the choke partially down (1 or 2 clicks). After engine has started always make sure oil is returning into the oil tank. Always thoroughly warm engine up prior to riding. If this is not possible, take off slowly and just putt down the road for the 1st few miles. Failure to follow these steps will result in less than satisfactory engine life. Every time the bike is turned off, the fuel petcocks should be closed. Hot starting Generally a warm or hot restart will not need choke but every bike is a little different and some may need a little choke but you will learn this over time with that particular bike. Engine temperature, how long the bike has been off, and outside temperature all affect the starting procedure. Open the fuel petcock Retard spark and open throttle ½ way Turn ignition ON, kick, and the engine should burst into life. If engine will not start, open throttle wide open, advance spark ¼ to ½ way and kick engine with ignition ON.
Air Cleaner Kiwi Air Cleaner Tech Air cleaners: The 166001 and 166002 fit Linkert (41-53) carburetors however they will interchange back to the listed years. Filter elements in general: You should not run your motorcycle without a filter. The original factory copper mesh filter does nothing to filter out dirty air particles and it is best to throw it as far as you can. Do not use this filter. We offer several types of filters to suit whatever your requirements are but we feel the best filter for Indians and Harley's is the 166003R Dry Charged type. Foam filters: These require oiling prior to use to be effective. Kiwi Tech Fuel line fittings: Our fuel lines and fittings are made just like the original with a copper T and brass fittings. Tight petcock: If your petcock becomes hard to turn on and off do not continue to use it as it can weaken the solder holding the nipple into the tank. Either relube it with 44454G gas resistant grease or replace it with our anti galling 44454R petcock. Always get in the habit of gently pulling out on the petcock as you turn it otherwise the tapers within the petcock tend to be forced into each other which causes binding to occur. Fuel filters: We strongly recommend using a filter. No matter how clean your tank is, fuel still requires final cleaning before entering the carburetor since just a tiny speck of dirt can cause a carburetor to malfunction. Most gas stations do not filter their gas. Fuel filter gasket: Original filters. Ensure your gasket has the correct inside diameter so as not to restrict the flow of gas in original filters. Some suppliers choose to use a Harley gasket which will fit however the inside diameter is slightly smaller which restricts the flow of fuel. If you notice a lean mixture or hesitation, check this gasket first. Carry a spare gasket in your tool box.