1 Under normal conditions, installation of a complete RK-E kit should be necessary only at time of major engine overhaul or when converter has been out of service for some time. Gaskets and diaphragms will deteriorate if converter is stored after being used. 2 First step is to disassemble the converter/ regulator. Remove diaphragm cover (G-AC1-22- 1) by taking out the eight screws around the circumference. 3 Next, remove the secondary diaphragm assembly (G-AD1-14-1). This requires the assembly be moved about one inch from the gas outlet to disengage the two prongs of the diaphragm link from the lever. 4 Diaphragm and cover removed showing secondary lever with valve and spring.
5 Loosen screw which retains fulcrum pin. 6 Extract screw in preparation for removal of fulcrum pin. 7 Slide out fulcrum pin (G-P1-7). Remove completely from assembly. Removal of secondary fulcrum pin releases spring and lever assembly. 8 Remove primary diaphragm cover (G-C1-20). Requires removal of four fillister head screws and two pan head screws.
9 Removal of last pan head screw. 10 G-C1-20 cover removal releases two G-S2-13 primary springs and the primary diaphragm assembly. Remove primary diaphragm assembly (G-AD1-15). Pen tip points out primary valve pin (G-P1-11). Primary valve is actuated by this pin through the body. This isolates the diaphragm from any contact with liquid propane. 11 Remove the last two G-S1-39 screws. 12 Loosen and remove body (G-B1-20) from heat exchanger (G-AB1-19).
13 G-B1-20 body removed with body gasket (G-G1-37) peeled back to show location. Sponge (G-F3-1) and primary valve (G-S4-7) shown in place in heat exchanger. Sponge absorbs liquid propane on cold starts, retains the liquid until it vaporizes. 14 Primary valve seat (G-S4-7). High pressure jet is case-hardened steel, pressed in place. Old seat should be discarded. 15 Heat exchanger body (G-AB1-19). Pen points to one of two outlet ports from serrated vaporizing chamber. Fuel exits in these ports as a cold gas approximately 40 degrees below zero. At rated flow, gas is warmed to 40 degrees above zero in the labyrinth. 16 Removal of back cover (G-C1-21). Requires removal of six G-S1-3 back cover screws.
17 Tap side of cover firmly with plastic handle to break cover loose from gasket. 18 Back cover gasket (G-G1-35). Ribs on underside of cover support the back gasket while providing air gaps for expansion in case of a water freeze up. 19 G-G1-35 gasket removed to show accumulation of deposits from the use of hard water. This condition can be alleviated through use of radiator additives or permanent anti-freezes. Remove accumulation with wire brush before assembly. Steel water inlet and outlet fittings may cause erosion from electrolysis. Use brass or plastic water fittings only. 20 G-RK-E kit contains all necessary parts to replace components subject to deterioration.
21 Reassembly of back cover (G-C1-21) and gasket (G-G1-35) to heat exchanger body (G-AB1-19). Replace six G-S1-3 screws. Match mounting bosses in cover with those on heat exchanger. Tighten two screws indicated first, then upper and lower screws diagonally opposite to draw down evenly all around. 22 Pen indicates recess cast in body to contain sponge (G-F3-1). Recess is approximately.040-inch deep, so sponge must be located accurately. 23 Sponge in place, primary seat (G-S4-7) ready to install. 24 Replacement of body (G-B1-20) and body gasket (G-G1-37). Mount body gasket on primary pin boss and two locating pins on underside of body. Use two G-S1-39 screws to locate body on heat exchanger body (G-AB1-19). Tighten screws to hold units in place.
25 Replace primary valve pin (G-P1-11). 26 Primary diaphragm assembly (G-AD1-15) ready to be put in place. 27 Install primary diaphragm assembly over locating pins and screw bosses. This gives proper alignment for assembly of springs and cover. 28 Place two primary valve springs (G-S2-13) upon locating perches extruded from the back-up plate on the primary valve diaphragm assembly (G-AD1-15).
29 Press primary cover (G-C1-20) in place over the primary valve springs and diaphragm assembly. Insert G-S1-40 screws. Protruding cups in cover house the primary springs. 30 Replace all screws with the exception of the one shown omitted in the illustration. 31 Tighten primary cover screws. Tighten six G-S1-39 screws until they just contact body. Then, tighten screws solidly first on one side then diagonally across the body on the opposite side until all screws are firmly tightened. 32 Remove old secondary seat (G-S4-6) from lever (G-AL1-13). With diagonal pliers or equivalent, straighten secondary seat pin (G-P1-9) and remove seat from lever.
33 Press new secondary seat (G-S4-25) into opening left by removal of lever perch. Be certain that secondary seat snap locks into place. 34 Completed secondary valve and lever assembly. Clip top of the seat stem off 1/8, to prevent contact with secondary diaphragm. 35 Replace secondary lever. Insert fulcrum pin (G-P1-7). 36 Replace final G-S1-39 screw.
37 Tighten screw. 38 Use straight edge or G-G2-2 gauge to check lever height. Secondary lever link pin should be approximately 1/32-inch below the level of the body casting. Note: On the G-PE converter (pressure model) the setting should be 3/32-inch below straight edge. 39 Replace secondary spring (G-S2-22). Slip spring under secondary lever making sure it is retained by the two tabs at the sides and the single tab punched through top of the lever. If a new spring is installed, a blue spring (G-S2-22_ is used with any carburetor or adaption with the exception of the CA300A mixer. The CA300A or another make of venture carburetor requires use of orange spring G-S2-23. The orange spring may be used with a carburetor when the G-EC-1 device is installed. 40 Slotted diaphragm link shown in position to engage link pin. Link and link pin in proper relationship.
41 Replace cover (G-AC1-22-1). Turn eight G-S1-2 screws until all contact cover. Then, tighten from side to side until all are firmly seated. 42 Completed converter. Check under pressure with soap suds or testing solution to detect possible leaks. If an elbow is used in the gas outlet, it must be a full-flow fitting such as 1 pipe or G- F4-1, shown here. Use only brass or plastic fittings in the water inlet and outlet passages. Steel fittings will cause the casting to deteriorate due to electrolysis.