Updated May 2015 Okay this is what I learned while converting several Yamaha SUV 1200 jet skis with a 2 stroke engine to a 4 stroke engine. I believe that you can use a Yamaha FX or VX four stroke for the donor jet ski with similar process. If you are using an FX 140 for the conversion you should not run into any real issues. I know of two ways to do this conversion, and there are probably other ways. SUV conversion as of this documentation. One using a 2002 FX 140 as the donor and the second one using a 2005 FX 160 HO, either way you do the conversion you will need a donor ski that is complete. You'd be surprised how many hoses fitting, parts, and bolts you would need from it to complete the conversion. If you have a Canada model Yamaha SUV Jet Ski I have found that the jet pump main shaft is 2 longer than the standard skis and you will need to change the main shaft or use the FX jet pump or add the front pump spacer from the FX pump to the SUV pump and get the needed cable extensions. 1. The first way to do the conversion: a. Use a complete drive train out of the FX140 including the Intermediate shaft, engine, jet pump, etc. b. you will need to use cable extensions for the trim, reverse, and steering cables to allow for the 2 inch spacer the FX has in between front of the jet pump and the transom plate. c. You will reuse the SUV engine mounts. d. The rear motor mounts on the SUV stay in the same place. e. The front mounts have to be move forward. You will need to cut out the inner hull so you can cut out the aluminum backing plates and reuse them. There is not a lot of room to work with them but once you get the whole started you can epoxy or glue them in place using the bolts to hold them in place, after that you can fiberglass them in place. f. The 18.5 gallon tank from the FX fits perfectly in the SUV. The SUV hold down strap's fit perfectly on the tank I had to install some foam in front of the tank to keep the tank from moving forward. g. The fill neck of the FX tank is in a different spot so you will have to make a fill hose out of the SUV and FX fill hoses and some hose barbs. h. Others have used the SUV tanks but have to modify it to handle the FX fuel pump/sender assembly. i. You will need the entire wiring harness out of the FX and it will fit pretty well in the SUV hull. j. You'll have to use the throttle cable from the FX. It is barely long enough but work smoothly without any undue tension on it. k. If the donor ski has that sensor on the steering that applies power on a hard turn with no throttle, you'll have to plug that into the harness and wire tie it out of the way. l. Depending on the year model of the FX you will have to connect the exhaust from the engine to the water box on the SUV. m The bottom of the seat will have to be modified on the SUV to clear the air filter housing http://

2. The second way to do the conversion: (This is how I do my conversion.) a. Use the FX or VX engine including the Intermediate shaft, jet pump without the front spacer, or use your SUV jet pump as it is. b. You will need to use 2 inch spacers to mount the Intermediate shaft to the bulkhead. I removed the spacer off the front of the FX pump and cut off 3 of the 4 bolt holes and used them for my Intermediate shaft spacers. c. You will reuse the SUV engine mounts. d. The rear engine mounts on the SUV have to be move forward 2 inches. e. The front mounts have to be move forward. You will need to cut out the inner hull so you can cut out the aluminum backing plates and reuse them. There is not a lot of room to work with them but once you get the hole started you can epoxy or glue them in place using the bolts to hold them in place, after that you can fiberglass them in place. f. The 18.5 gallon tank from the FX fits perfectly in the SUV. The SUV hold down strap's fit perfectly on the tank I had to install some foam in front of the tank to keep the tank from moving forward. g. The fill neck of the FX tank is in a different spot so you will have to make a fill hose out of the SUV and FX fill hoses and some hose barbs. h. Others have used the SUV tanks but have to modify it to handle the FX fuel pump/sender assembly. i. You will need the entire wiring harness out of the FX and it will fit pretty well in the SUV hull. j. You'll have to use the throttle cable from the FX. It is plenty long enough with this setup. k. If the donor ski has that sensor on the steering that applies power on a hard turn with no throttle, you'll have to plug that into the harness and wire tie it out of the way. l. Depending on the year model of the FX you will have to connect the exhaust from the engine to the water box on the SUV. m. The bottom of the seat will have to be modified on the SUV to clear the air filter housing. http://

I have studied and measured the two pumps and intermediate shafts and have decided what I am going to do to install the 4 stroke Yamaha FX140 engine as for the pump end. There is a 2 inch difference between the two setups. The SUV pump has one impeller housing, this is where the wear ring is located. The FX140 has two impeller housings, the second impeller housing is like a 2 inch spacer in front of the pump, making the total length of the pump 2 inches longer than the SUV pump. Another words the FX140 pump will extend 2 inches longer from where it mounts to the transom plate than the SUV pump. If you remove the second impeller housing the two pumps look to be the same pumps. Here is a picture of both pumps. The left is the FX and right is the SUV. http://

Here is a picture with the second impeller housing removed from the FX140 pump. The left is the FX and right is the SUV. By using the FX140 pump unit with the second impeller housing you will need to do something about the difference in the length of the cables, trim steering and reverse. The length to the intermediate shaft will be ok. By using the FX140 pump without the or the second impeller housing or using the SUV pump you will not have any cable length problems but the distance to the intermediate shaft will be 2 inches forward of the original mounting location. http://

I am going to use my SUV pump so that I am not changing any engineering of the Jet Ski. Yamaha spent a lot of money designing the hull and pump setup and I am not as smart as their team. I will be making a spacer to space the intermediate shaft mounting point 2 inches forward from its original location. I think that this is the simplest solution. I will remove the rear bearing housing from the SUV intermediate shaft bearing and install it on the intermediate shaft bearing housing from the FX140. I need to do this because it is what makes the seal to keep water from entering the hull. I will also install a new hose that is 2 inches longer that seals the bearing housing to the hull pipe joint. Here is the original intermediate shafts. The left is the FX140 and the right is the SUV both 2002 model. Intermediate shaft bearing with 2 inch spacers. I made the spacers by cutting three of the four corner bolt holes or ears off of the second impeller housing from the FX140. The impeller housing was corroded through badly, you could see pin holes through it so it was no good to use but made the right size spacers that I needed. I have basically moved the extra 2 inches from sticking out from the back of the hull to moving the intermediate shaft forward 2 inches. This will give me more room behind the engine and save me from extending the three cables on the pump. http://

The rear mounts are 2 inches forward from the original location. I cut out the mounting plates and run a tap through each threaded hole. I took a straight edge and marked a line along the original engine mount holes on the SUV on each side. Marked holes 2 inches forward on the rear mounts and the front marks I marked while the engine was sitting in the SUV hull. I cut out the inner hull with a side grinder with a cutting disk and with a chisel and a screwdriver I separated the engine mounting plates from the hull. I removed the fiberglass from in front of the original mounting location on the bottom of the inner hull so that the mounting plates would be flush with the underside of the inner hull. The left rear mounting plate was beveled where the other three were rectangle. The right front mounting plate I had to cut about 1 1/2 inch off the front and at an angle so that it would fit the inner hull shape. I used some 5200 adhesive on the top of the mounting plates and put the bolts in each plate and tighten them in place. I then cleaned the area and laid the fiberglass matting to make the inner hull complete again. http://

I made a template for the cutout for the dash and was able to install the FX display. It is mounted from the back side (inside). I had to cut off the bottom two mounting bolt tabs and cut down the display thickness around the bottom and right sides looking at the display from the front. I used an air die grinder to cut out the dash and cut a grove along the bottom of the opening for the FX display to fit or sit into. This worked well to hold the bottom of the display in the dash and I was able to use the original top mounting tabs with a little trimming. I did have to take a side grinder and cut the thickness of the top tabs down flush so that the display would mount flush. I used black silicone to seal the display in the dash. http://

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I mounted the ECU control box on the front of the bulkhead behind the engine high as I could. I made some spacers out of 1/2 inch CPVC to hold the control box at the right spacing from the bulkhead. http://

Here is what I cut from the bottom of the seat. I will put a metal plate back in for support. http://

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To hook up the exhaust you may need to get creative. There seems to be differences with different year models. I was working with a 2002 SUV and a 2002 FX140 and was able to use parts from both to get the exhaust hooked up by cutting off the front nipple of the FX140 water box and using it along with the flexible elbow from the SUV. I cut the flexible elbow to make an adapter or reducer using the FX nipple and hose clamps. I then used the FX140 flexible exhaust by removing the aluminum shroud and cutting the length to fit. http://

I will try to make a complete list of parts needed to do a SUV conversion using a good running VX or FX as a donor. This list does not include parts removed from the donor ski. I will add to this list as I need to buy parts. 1. 8" of 1 5/8 inch exhaust hose for the pump shaft housing to intermediate shaft bearing. The original hose is now 2" to short. 2. Three (3) 3 1/2 inch 5/16 SS bolts, nuts and 6 washers to mount the intermediate shaft bearing with the 2 inch spacers I cut from the FX pump front housing. 3. I recommend to replace the two (2) O-rings for the intermediate shaft bearing where the drive shaft enter the splines and new molly lube or grease for the shaft. 4. New oil filter and suggest to change the oil. 5. Sealant to mount the pump and any through the hull fittings. 6. 6 1/2 inches of 3 inch silicone hose to hookup exhaust. 7. Something like 30 SS hose clamps to replace all the hose clamps on the engine and all hose connections. 8. (2) 2 inch 5/16 SS bolts and SS wing nuts to mount bottom of the ECU to the bulkhead using some 1/2 CPVC pipe cut with an angel to fit the bulkhead as spacers. 9. (2) 3 inch 5/16 SS bolts and SS wing nuts to mount top of the ECU to the bulkhead using some 1/2 CPVC pipe cut with an angel to fit the bulkhead as spacers. 10. New 5 foot ground cable. The original FX cable is not long enough. http://

NOTES ON HOSES: 1. The hose from the top of the exhaust elbow at the top front of the engine runs to the left or port side of the hull and is discharged. 2. The hose from the top of the thermostat housing runs to the right front or starboard side of the ski and is discharged. This fitting will need to be added to the SUV hull. 3. The larger hose from the bottom of the thermostat goes to the right or starboard side of the pump tunnel in front of the exhaust outlet and is discharged. This fitting will need to be added to the SUV hull. 4. The hose from the top of the muffler goes to the top right or starboard side of the transom plate above the steering cable. 5. The hose from the bottom of the intake goes to the y-splitter and one side of the split goes to the washout connection and the other side of the y goes to the right or port side bottom of the transom plate. 6. The upper right or port side of the transom plate the port just below the trim cable goes to the one way check valve mounted up high then to the bilge pickup. 7. I would suggest adding a discharge fitting to the left or port side of the pump tunnel to be used for a electric bilge pump discharge point. If you want to have a tale tale port you can add a smaller discharge fitting from the electric bilge pump somewhere that you can see it when the bilge pump is running. These fittings will need to be added to the SUV hull. General Instructions: Step 1. Remove the engine and engine mounts. Remove the pump and intermediate shaft bearing housing. Remove the fuel tank. Clean the inside of the hull now. Step 2. Install the through the hull fittings now. One on the right front side of the hull. One on the left and Right side of the pump tunnel. Step 3. Mark the location for the engine mounts and cut out the inner hull and move the engine mount hull Plates to the new locations. Lay fiberglass to seal and enforce the hull. Enlarge the opening in the bulkhead for the water box up and to the right about 2 inches. Step 4. Install the jet pump then install the intermediate shaft bearing housing and check alignment. Use shims if needed for proper alignment. Step 5. Install ECU and wiring. Step 6. Install engine and use shims under engine mounts as needed to get the proper engine coupler Alignment. Step 7. Hook up exhaust, this will require some modifications. Hook up all wire connectors and hoses. Step 8. Double check all your work. Step 9. Install the battery. Crank engine, turn on water. Step 10. Put in water and check for any leaks, if no leaks then unload and run the ski for a few minutes then Stop and double check for any water or leaks in the hull. Enjoy your converted SUV. http://