The Water Pump Guy Your Authorized Dealer/Installer for Simple Pump Co

The Water Pump Guy Your Authorized Dealer/Installer for Simple Pump Co Installation and Maintenance of the Hand-Operated Simple Pump THE WATER PUMP GUY 775.450.1990 PO Box 189 Gardnerville, NV 89410 thewaterpumpguy.com info@thewaterpumpguy.com

TABLE OF CONTENTS Section 1: Introduction Parts Shipped Tools Required 2 Section 2: Do It Yourself, or Call a Professional? 5 Section 3: Inspecting Your Existing System 6 Section 4: Existing Cap Replacement with a Submersible Pump 7 Section 5: Pump Cylinder and Drop Pipe Kit Installation 7 Section 6: Pump Head Installation 13 Section 7: Pumping Water 16 Appendix 1: Exploded Pump System Diagram 17 Appendix 2: Maintenance 18 SECTION 1: INTRODUCTION PARTS SHIPPED TOOLS REQUIRED Thank you for purchasing a Simple Pump. Please carefully read through these instructions. Your time will be well spent. You will receive your Simple Pump partially assembled. The following section lists the different types of assemblies that you may receive, including whether assembled with other items. Compare the description to the packing list included with you shipment. PUMP HEAD ASSEMBLY (PHA) is comprised of these parts. Pump Head Stainless! Stainless Pump Rod. Only end shown, slightly pulled from packaging. Actual length about the same as Pump Head with Riser Tube (immediately above). Lever Link Arm Bracket Assembly. Preassembled brackets and hardware. Ready to attach to lever arm and head. 2

Clevis, Clevis Pin, 2 Shims. Pre-assembled onto the Lever Arm Assembly, a separate item. HANDLE (lever arm) 36 or 24. Clevis, clevis pin and shims are attached. WELL CAP One of these possible well caps: 2 Simple Pump cap with 1! split flange port for the Simple Pump only. 4, 4.5, 5, 6, 6.25 and 7 /8 Simple Pump caps. With 1-3/4" split flange port for the Simple Pump, 1" female NPT port for AC supply to a submersible and a 1-3/4" smooth wall port for submersible pipe. (Only one size shown.) 6 Trega clamshell cap. Packaged in its own box. Split flange. Packed outside Trega box. To be assembled onto Trega. 3

Drop pipe and sucker rod (can be in 9, 54 or 27 lengths). End shown. One rod guide per drop pipe kit. Often shipped in a separate container in one poly bag. Pump Cylinder Assembly: 100CA and 100CA-SS cylinder look the same -- top cylinder below. 125CA is bottom cylinder. Cylinder length is about 18 inches. Piston rod protrudes beyond cylinder by about 5 inches. ALSO USUALLY SHIPPED Safety Tool. Keeps the pump set from falling into the well during installation. Seal Kit. For first maintenance 3-10 years after installation. The 5-seals shown are for 3 gpm systems. 5 gpm system systems require 4 seals. Check valve with pressure gauge. For pumping into your home s pressure tank or uphill. These, above, are the core components. There are other components that may be part of your quote, that are not shown here. 4

TOOLS REQUIRED (1) Allen wrench (English, not metric) 3/16" Allen wrench for (4) 1/4-20 SS SHCS that attach the mechanism to the pump head. (2) channel locks: to grip 1! outer diameter PVC pipe (2) vise grips Roll of Teflon tape Bleach/water: 1 part bleach to 24 parts water. Wire cutters, strippers (if installing alongside an existing submersible pump) SECTION 2: DO IT YOURSELF, OR CALL A PROFESSIONAL? Before considering whether to perform this installation yourself, you need to first determine what type of well cap is on your existing well casing. NO PIPE THROUGH THE WELL CAP If your well cap does not have pipe from the submersible passing up through the middle, you have a pitless adaptor. You can quite possibly the installation yourself. You should be comfortable with both simple plumbing tasks and electrical wiring. With the wiring, you will disconnect your existing submersible well pump wiring under the cover and reconnect it through the new cover. You MUST be certain the power is disconnected while you are working. The line supplying power to submersibles almost always carry 240 volts. ELECTRICITY CAN KILL! DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PERFORM THIS WORK UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. If you have the skills required to safely disconnect and connect power to the submersible (cut, splice and reconnect), the installation is really quite simple. STRONGLY RECOMMENDED #1: Whatever your water level, two people should install the Simple Pump. STRONGLY RECOMMENDED #2: If your water level is deeper than about 200 feet, we recommend professional installation. Each length of drop pipe is about 5 lbs. So at 200 feet water level, you eventually handle 130 lbs. At 350 water level, it would be 215 lbs. We can t of course know what weight you and your helper will be able to handle. SUBMERSIBLE OUTPUT PIPE THROUGH THE WELL CAP If your cover has pressure piping that passes through it and continues to your house system, it is best to employ a pump installer to at least install the Simple Pump well cap. Your pump installer has equipment to lift the cover with the attached string of pipes and pump, swap your current cap for the Simple Pump cap, and then place the pump set back in the casing with the new cap. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THIS TYPE OF COVER UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING! 5

SECTION 3: INSPECTING YOUR EXISTING SYSTEM This section applies if you have a pitless adaptor and you can remove your current well cap by hand. You will remove your existing cover and inspect your well for any obstacles that might obstruct the installation of your new hand pump. a) Make certain that your electric well power source has been shut off and locked off. b) Remove your existing cover. c) Untangle any wiring under the cover and pull the wires from the pump tight, with the excess out of the case. d) Confirm unobstructed clearance down the well. Shine a high-intensity light source down the well. Best is a mirror used to reflect the sun to shine down the casing. You can see the water reflecting as deep as 200 feet if the well is straight. If there is no pressurized water pipe through the cap, you will see a special fitting (called a "pitless adapter") that takes water coming up from the submersible through an exit on the side, underground. There must be enough clearance to allow piping to the hand pump pass beside this fitting. The 125CA 5 GPM cylinder requires 1-3/4" diameter clearance; the 3 GPM 100CA requires 1.6. On some installations, a number of "torque arrestors" are installed at intervals to keep the pipe and wiring at the center. These can prevent the hand pump piping from being installed. Yet, torque arrestors are only necessary very close to the electric pump and the Simple Pump is always installed 10 or more feet above it. If you find torque arresters preventing clearance, a well company can remove the unneeded ones. e) Check clearance for the cap inspect the rim of the well casing. No matter what cap or casing type you have, the cap fits onto the casing rim snugly, without much clearance by design so inspecting the rim is important to ensure proper fit. Side view check: The rim of the well casing should be smooth and level throughout. Top view check: The rim s thickness should be the same all the way around. Sometimes, if the casing was cut using a welding torch, there may be extra material on the outside that effectively thickens the rim. This needs to be removed. A sharp flat file will remove it. A hand grinder will also work very quickly. 2-INCH CASING? If your casing is 2, it requires a rigid support. Otherwise, the normal forces from lever-arm movement make a 2 casing deflect (as much as 2-3 for a metal casing or 6-7 for PVC. The best option is to not mount directly on the 2 casing at all. Use a 4-5 foot section of 6" metal casing as a sleeve with the original 2 casing housed inside. Or if that is not available, the 6 PVC casing we have supplied. Installation: If the casing is higher than 12 inches above ground level, cut the 2 casing down to 12 inches above ground level. Dig down so the 6 sleeve is embedded several feet into the earth, with its top two inches above the top of the 2 casing. Use the 6 well cap to help you correctly position the 6 casing off-center of the 2 sleeve. The Simple Pump port on the 6 cap is one of just three so all of the ports are located off-center. Backfill around the casing. Then securely cover the top of the 2 casing before using cement to fill the space between. Use just the fine slurry of Portland cement no aggregate. Now you can put the Simple Pump well cap on the 6 sleeve, with the drop pipes going down the 2 casing. 6

SECTION 4: EXISTING CAP REPLACEMENT WITH A SUBMERSIBLE PUMP This section addresses cap replacement for well with a currently installed electric submersible pump. a) When you untangled the pump wiring, you should have found connections. Typically these are wire nuts under electrical tape. They may be crimped connectors, in which case you will need to cut the wires close to the connectors. You will usually have three wire connection, which means three wires and a fourth that is ground. Note the colors and disconnect them. As an additional safety precaution, if you have a metal casing, take the bare wire ends coming from the house and touch them to the well casing one at a time as you disconnect them. If for some reason there was power, they would arc against the case and not you. The wires must reconnect in the same order. You may need to tie some twine onto the pump wires to keep them from falling down the well. The wires should however be taped to the piping a few feet down. b) Take the wiring from inside the casing, and pass through the 1" port in the new well cap. Now slide the well cap over the casing, level if necessary and tighten the four outer set screws. c) You will need to carefully evaluate your wiring to determine the best method to enclose the wiring. Sometimes flexible conduit is the easiest method. However you finish off the electrical conduit, make certain that each wire is reconnected to the same wire. d) Make certain that the wiring inside the casing does not obstruct the path for the hand pump piping as you look down through the split flange. The power cables and submersible s safety lifting cable should be taped to the pipe submersible pump s pipe, straight up from bottom to top. Neither should spiral around the pipe; they should be as flat against pipe as possible. If this is not the case, you should seek the help of a professional installer. e) Once your existing wiring is reconnected, you can energize your electric pump and make sure that it is working normally before you proceed. ***CRITICAL: YOU MUST HAVE YOUR NEW SIMPLE PUMP WELL CAP INSTALLED, as above, BEFORE PROCEEDING WITH THE NEXT STEP BELOW --- i.e. THE INSTALLATION OF YOUR DROP PIPES. *** SECTION 5: PUMP CYLINDER AND DROP PIPE KIT INSTALLATION INTRODUCTION In this section we will review the installation of the entire string of new drop pipe with the pump cylinder at the bottom. Being extremely cautious during this sequence is critical. It is possible to drop the drop pipes down the well. Follow these directions, carefully step by step! PREPARATION AND INSPECTION When you receive your pump system, the drop pipe kits arrive in a nine foot spiralwound fiber tube. The male threaded ends will be protected by a plastic cap. You need to remove that cap prior to installation. All the drop pipes should be the same, except one, the top drop pipe, the last to be installed. Its top will have the word weep handwritten on it. A 1/16 weep hole is drilled in it 48 from the top (or further down, if you requested a custom weep hole). 7

Each sucker rod is shipped inside of a drop pipe. The ends of the spiral-wound fiber tubes are wrapped with stretch wrap and tape. Very occasionally, from rough handling during shipping, a sucker rod has come out of the shipping tube, and then bent upon itself. That ruins the sucker rod, fracturing the fiberglass but the damage may not be totally obvious. Therefore, before installation, examine the length of each sucker rod visually and by running your hand slowly over it. The surface should be smooth with no imperfections. Wipe outside of all pipe, and rinse inside of pipe with the dilute bleach solution, taking care to remove any debris, dirt, PVC sawdust, etc. Place them where they will not be contaminated prior to installation. INSTALLATION Take the either Model 100 or Model 125 pump cylinder, and using the vice grips, connect the male threads on the piston rod and the female threads on a sucker rod. Use as much force as necessary. Stop when the two ends are shoulder to shoulder. Apply three wraps of Teflon tape on the male threads of the drop pipe (right). WARNINGS: Never use a liquid sealant/pipe dope. Never use more than three layers of Teflon tape. Bring the sucker rod that is already attached to the piston rod into the male end of the drop pipe. Thread the drop pipe into the pump cylinder (below). Be careful not to cross-thread. Tighten as far as possible by hand. Further tighten the PVC drop pipe into the body of the pump cylinder (by one-half revolution), while holding the pump cylinder with a channel lock. The 125CA is shown, (left) with white bushing. The 100CA has/ needs no white bushing to make this connection. The amount of torque desired is about a halfturn beyond hand tight. The drop pipe threads are tapered, so there is no need to use a heavy pipe wrench or any other tool that generates a great deal of torque. 8

INSERT CYLINDER AND DROP PIPE At this point you should have a 10.5-foot long assembly that includes the bottommost (9-foot) drop pipe, and the 18-inch-long pump cylinder. The 3 bolts on the top of the split flange should be slightly loose (horizontal arrows, photo on right), and the pinch bolt should be loose (vertical arrow, right). Have your safety tool handy and another person to help. Then, introduce the pump cylinder through the split flange that is mounted to the well cap. Note: As you introduce the cylinder past the split flange, you may find it difficult to move the leading edge past the O-ring in the split flange. You might have to use some Vaseline, or other lubricant, to get leading edge of the cylinder past that O-ring. The safety tool is then placed on the three bolt heads that mount the split flange to the well cap. Bring the bell end of the pipe down to rest in the safety tool. The safety tool will hold the entire set as it is assembled, keeping it from slipping into the well. 9

Place a rod guide over the protruding sucker rod (lower right). It will shimmy down into the female bell end, to the point where there is no threading. When the sucker rod is pushed down as far as it will go, there are about 5 inches of sucker rod protruding (left). This is the same amount of protrusion seen for the piston rod relative to the top edge of the pump cylinder. As we continue to add all the lengths of sucker rod and drop pipe, the goal is to maintain that distance between the top of the sucker rod and the top of the drop pipe. To get this result, try to have about ⅝ inches thread engagement between the female and male pipe ends. To achieve this, screw the two ends until hand tight. Then, using the two channel locks, screw onehalf rotation further no more. Attach the second sucker rod to the sucker rod just installed (left). Use your vice grips and/or channel locks to tighten shoulder to shoulder. There should be no visible gap that might make it possible to see threading (below). 10

Install the second drop pipe. As before, apply 3 wraps on the male threads (previously shown). Then, arch the sucker rod so that its end is inserted into the male end of the drop pipe (left). Screw the drop pipe ends together, ⅝ inches of engagement, or a half-rotation beyond hand-tight (lef). After connecting the drop pipe, lift up the drop pipe and remove the safety tool. Lower the drop pipe a few inches and replace the safety tool around the next drop pipe. Carefully lower the drop pipe until the next bell end is resting in the safety tool. Repeat the addition of drop pipe kits rod guide, then sucker rod, then drop pipe. Testing for water: During the installation of the last two to four drop pipe kits, the cylinder at the bottom of the pump set should be below the static water level. It is helpful for you to test for water by grasping the sucker rod, and moving it up and down (right). You will be able to feel when the piston at the bottom is moving in water. Certainly before proceeding with the installation of pump head, you should confirm that the pump cylinder is in water. Do not attempt to operate the pump unless you have determined that the cylinder is immersed in water. Pumping air can seriously damage the inside of the pump cylinder this damage is not covered by the five-year Simple Pump warranty. 11

(Installation is continued on next page, after this optional section.) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ OPTIONAL SECTION FOR 12 OR MORE 9-FOOT DROP PIPE KITS 1. T-HANDLE ASSIST TOOL Simple Pump recommends the T-Handle Assist Tool when the installation requires 12 or more 9-foot drop pipe kits. Also, this tool should be used if the person doing the installation has concerns about being able to hold onto the weight of a lesser number of drop pipe kits. HOW TO USE The downward-facing 1" male threads on the T-Handle are threaded into the upward-facing 1" female bell-end on the drop pipe kits. The T-Handle provides a safe grip area for the lowering of the drop pipe string when the female bell end is at about eye level down to the point where the bell end is cradled in the safety tool (left). Once the string of drop pipe is safely resting in the SIM073 Safety Tool, the T-Handle can be unthreaded and reattached to the next-tobe-installed 9 foot drop pipe kit. 2. ROD EXTENDERS In a fully-installed Simple Pump, moving the lever arm from the very top of its stroke range to the bottom of the stroke range moves the piston in the pump cylinder (at the bottom) 10.5 inches. The piston can travel 2.5 inches up and down from exact center position in the cylinder without the piston topping out or bottoming out. When you attach the final / top drop pipe, check to make sure that you have 4 to 5 of sucker rod protruding from the top of the top drop pipe bell end with SS close nipple in place. If it is less that four inches, you can adjust the length of the sucker rod by adding one or more rod extenders so you have a 4 to 5 extension." These will have been included in your quote, if you have 12 or more 9 drop pipes. If rod extenders are needed, use Loctite or other thread bonder on both the male and female ends. (End of optional material.) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12

SECTION 6: PUMP HEAD INSTALLATION Install the 1"x2" stainless steel threaded connector Bring the riser tube (and attached pump Apply three wraps of teflon tape to the thread of the 1" by 2" stainless nipple (not shown). (nipple) on the top of the last drop pipe (below). Hand tighten. head) over the pump rod and lower it down. Do so slowly there is a 8-inch-long rod gland at the top of the riser Hand tighten the riser tube onto the nipple. Then using two channel locks, tightening a halfturn past hand tight (not shown). The nipple will essentially disappear so the two female ends will end up being nearly butted. Bring the! inch stainless pump rod, and thread it onto the upward facing male end of the top sucker rod. Grip the bottom sucker rod as shown (below) There are flats at the top of the pump rod that you can use to get a grip on the rod. tube, so make sure, as you lower it, to align the riser tube so the pump rod is in the very middle, so it can be moved through the more narrow opening of the rod gland. 13 At this point, the pump set is heaviest a second pair of hands can help here most. Remove the safety tool, lifting up a little on the bell end (left). Lower the pump set until the riser tube is at the the desired position. Tighten the pinch bolt on the split flange. Tighten the three mounting bolts on the split flange.

ATTACH THE LEVER ARM TO ITS BRACKET The 24" or 36" lever arms are supplied partially preassembled. We assemble the clevis, the two brass shims, and the clevis pin to the lever arm ordered. Separately, the mating mechanism the lever bracket, the lever link arm and the clevis pin plus shims are combined into the Lever Link Arm Bracket Assembly. Put these together before attempting to attach them to the pump head -- put them on a flat surface. Introduce the first shim between then two mating parts (right). Use a small screwdriver, or a small Allen wrench, to reach inside, centering the shim (right) Push the pin through partway (below). Then, flip the partially-connect assemblies over, gently push back the pin out just a bit (not shown). This will give you the clearance to install the second brass shim. As with the first side, use the small screwdriver, Allen wrench or something similar to center the shim. Then, press down on the assembly (not the pin) so the table you are on pushes the head of pin all the way through, upward, toward you (not shown). 14

Bring the clevis into position above the! inch stainless rod. Thread it into position (right). The threads are left-hand threads -- you tighten them by going counterclockwise, not clockwise. The lever bracket is brought into position (below). You may have to lift up on the pump rod in order to get the holes to align correctly (below). There are four long cap screws that need to be secured using an Allen wrench. PUMPING TO YOUR PRESSURE TANK A! stainless steel outlet nipple and a brass, lead-free, garden hose adapter are included with every pump head assembly. If you intend to pressurize your house pressure tank from the hand pump, or pump uphill, install a check valve. The Simple Pump check valve, the stainless nipple and garden hose adapter are all shown, right. Make sure to use a check valve, or a relief valve, to prevent generating more than 50 psi into any plumbing. The Simple Pump can generate over 100 psi. 15

SECTION 7: PUMPING WATER It will require about one stroke for each foot of water depth to get the water up to the pump head. 100 feet will require about about 100 strokes. There is a very small (1/16 ) bleeder ( weep ) hole about 4 feet below your pump head, in the top drop pipe. This takes about 15 minutes to drain and protects the pump against freezing. Each time you go out to pump after a period of time, it will require about six to eight strokes to get the water back to the pump head. The check valves in the pump cylinder allow a very small amount of leakage over time. Over several days or weeks, you may need to pump a few extra strokes to get the water back to the top. PUMPING INTO PRESSURE DURING SUSTAINED FREEZES The weep hole is not sufficient to prevent damage to the pump when pumping into pressurized plumbing. When pumping stops, the check valve holds water in the line. The hose to the pressurized system must be disconnected AT THE PUMP HEAD to allow air into the system to allow the water to weep down. You will also, of course, need to drain the hose, itself. NORMAL POSITION OF THE PUMP HANDLE The normal at-rest position of the lever arm is vertical (right). The lever arm's vertical resting position keeps the rod inside the rod gland. This protects the rod from sources of contamination. Do NOT tie the handle in the down position. IF AWAY FROM THE PUMP: REMOVING HANDLE FOR SECURITY In some circumstances, you may wish to remove the handle and take it with you, reinstalling for each use. This is a simple procedure that just takes a few minutes. (Please keep in mind that the threads on the 3/4" stainless rod and clevis are lefthand.) Do not remove any of the three clevis pins. Leave the complete lever arm linkage in one connected grouping. Remove the (4)-1/4-20 x 1/2" hex head cap screws where the lever bracket is attached to the flat, machined face on the pump head. Then use the lever arm (with lever link arm and lever bracket still connected) as a wrench handle to unscrew the clevis from the 3/4" stainless rod in the pump head. (You may need to use a crescent wrench to hold the 3/4" stainless rod from rotating while disconnecting the clevis.) 16

APPENDIX 1: EXPLODED PUMP SYSTEM DIAGRAM (SIM032) (SIM020A) (24LA or 36LA) CLEVIS PIN (90156A383) (SIM021) TOP DROP PIPE (109DPTBE-48) (SIM042) SUCKER ROD (D2-108) STANDARD DROP PIPE (109DPE) SPLIT FLANGE (SIM054A) WELL CAP (C2, C4, C5, C6, C7 or C8) (below DPADJ KIT) (100CA or 125CA) (100CA or 125CA) (100CA or 125CA) (100CA or 125CA) 17

APPENDIX 2: MAINTENANCE 1. OCCASIONAL PUMPING If your water has a high suspended solids content or high minerals content, deposits could accumulate on parts. Work the pump monthly for a few minutes to keep deposits from forming. 2. SEAL KIT AND ROD GLAND REPLACEMENT INSTRUCTIONS SIGNS THAT SEALS NEED REPLACING The length of time between seal replacement can vary greatly with amount of use and water quality. Most clients have done maintenance at somewhere between three and ten years: For piston seals: when output drops appreciably. For pump heads seals: when water leaks between the pump rod and the rod gland in the pump head. SEAL KIT DETAILS Model 100: The seal kit for a model 100CA pump cylinder assembly and pump head is comprised of five (5), 90 u-cup seals. Two (2) u-cup seals are provided for the rod gland in the pump head, and three (3) u- cup seals are provided for the piston in the pump cylinder. Model 125: The seal kit for a model 125CA pump cylinder assembly and pump head is comprised of four (4), 90 u-cup seals. Two (2) u-cup seals for the rod gland in the pump head, and two (2) u-cup seals are provided are provided for the piston in the pump cylinder. Note that rod gland gland replacement is also explained, but the need for it is rare. CHANGING THE SEALS AND ROD GLAND FIRST - REMOVE THE LEVER ARM ASSEMBLY All seal replacements start with removing the lever arm mechanism: Using the 3/16" Allen wrench, remove each of the four fasteners that hold the lever arm mechanism to the pump head (right). Unscrew the clevis from the pump rod. Move the lever arm clockwise while keeping the pump rod from rotating using your vice grip or channel lock (right). The direction you unscrew is the opposite of normal -- turn clockwise to remove, rather than the normal counterclockwise. This will remove the lever link arm, bracket, and lever arm (they should still be connected), from the 3/4" stainless rod. 18

CHANGING THE PUMP HEAD SEALS AND ROD GLAND Remove the pump head by unscrewing it (right). Rotate it in a counterclockwise motion. A good number of rotations are required before it detaches from the riser tube.you may need to first loosen it with a channel lock. PUMP HEAD SEALS The 2 u-cup seals in the pump head are located at the top end of the rod gland, in two machined grooves (top arrow, left). Once the pump head has been removed, the u-cup seals can be easily accessed for removal / installation. Rod gland U-cup seals MUST be installed with open end of U facing DOWN (right). ROD GLAND REPLACEMENT The rod gland runs the length of the assembly at length (middle arrow, above). Remove the spider (lowest arrow, above) by unscrewing (counterclockwise). Remove the rod gland from the stainless pump head using the channel locks (counter-clockwise to loosen)...leave the o-ring in place beneath rod gland in pump head. Repeat all steps in reverse to install the new rod gland. PISTON SEALS In order to replace u-cup seals on the piston, the pump system must be pulled from the well as the piston is at the bottom. Piston U-cup seals MUST be installed with open end of U facing UPWARD. For the Model 100, this will be three (3) seals. For the Model 125, this will be two (2) seals. (right) 19