INSTALLATION GUIDE. High Steer Kit

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AEV30212AE Last Updated: 12/09/16 High Steer Kit Designed for 2007 current Jeep JK Wrangler and Wrangler Unlimited models in all trim levels, including Rubicon, with at least 3.0 of suspension lift. INSTALLATION GUIDE

PLEASE READ BEFORE YOU START TO GUARANTEE A QUALITY INSTALLATION, WE RECOMMEND READING THESE INSTRUCTIONS THOROUGHLY BEFORE BEGINNING ANY WORK. THESE INSTRUCTIONS ASSUME A CERTAIN AMOUNT OF MECHANICAL ABILITY AND ARE NOT WRITTEN NOR INTENDED FOR SOMEONE NOT FAMILIAR WITH AUTO REPAIR. INCLUDED PARTS QTY REQUIRED TOOLS Passenger-side Front Axle Bracket 2 Floor Jack and two Jackstands Driver-side Front Axle Bracket 1 or Vehicle Lift with tall Jackstands Draglink 1 Torque Wrench (ft-lbs) Steering Damper 1 Shock Doubler Bracket 2 These instructions assume you have the following factory parts installed on your JK: 1. JK frame and front axle with all relevant brackets in tact. 2. Front track bar (aftermarket units will work ONLY if they can be adjusted to stock length. 3. Factory steering linkage (tie rod and part of the drag link will be retained.) 4. Rear stabilizer end links (or equivalent length) to use in front. 1

I. Remove factory components 1. Raise Jeep and support the frame using jack stands or a hoist, such that the front axle can be lowered enough to remove the springs. Support the axle by placing floor jack under the center of the axle. Remove the wheels (Fig. 1). 2. Remove the following parts: Figure 1 Passenger front wheels/tires (needed for drilling access in step 6) Steering drag link (coupler to knuckle portion only) Steering damper Tie rod Sway bar end links 3. Also perform the following items only as indicated (not full removal as above): Disconnect front track bar at axle side II. Install passenger side front axle brackets 1. Place bracket with half moon cutouts inside the original front track bar bracket and over the axle tube (Fig. 2-A). Insert two of the supplied 3/8 x 1.0 L bolts and washers through the small holes in the bracket and the corresponding holes in the stock bracket, then add nuts and hand tighten. 3/8 x 1 A. B. Figure 2 2

2. Add the supplied u-bolt and nuts (visible in Fig. 4). 3. Insert the supplied spacer tube between stock track bar bracket and new bracket (Fig. 2-B), lining it up with the original track bar bolt hole. (This may require slight prying or tapping with a hammer.) 4. Pre-assemble the second bracket as shown (Fig. 3) with the supplied bolt, washers, and free-spinning nut. Figure 3 5. Install this bracket in front of the stock track bar bracket on the axle and line up the small holes with the corresponding ones on the axle bracket. Insert the remaining two 3/8 x 1.0 L bolts and washers from the front through the brackets, add nuts and hand tighten. 6. Insert the 1/2 x 1 1/2 L bolt through the factory stabilizer tab on the side of the axle and the corresponding bracket hole and add the locking nut. 7. Place 9/16 x 3 1/2 L bolt through original trackbar hole, both brackets, and supplied spacer tube. 8. You may now tighten all fasteners. 22 ft/lbs 40 ft/lbs 100 ft/lbs 100 ft/lbs 22 ft/lbs Figure 4 3

III. Install driver side front axle bracket Position bracket over axle tube as shown (Fig. 5) Use supplied hardware to attach bracket to axle and tighten to 100 ft-lbs. 100 ft/lbs IV. Reattach track bar Figure 5 1. Raise the axle until the axle-end of the track bar can be lined up with the uppermost holes in the new brackets (it may be necessary to pry the brackets apart to allow the track bar to drop in easily. TIP: We find that using a ratchet strap to move the axle over will help with aligning the holes. 2. Insert original track bar bolt and flag nut through passenger-side front axle brackets and track bar but do not tighten at this time (refer to Fig. 10). V. install SWAY BAR end links Replace with factory REAR end links or end links with the same overall length as factory rear JK or JKU end links. 1. For each side attach the upper end stud to the sway bar in the same manner as the original front links had been (nut on frame side of bar). NOTE: The upper stud has a different thread than the rest of the M12 fasteners in the suspension it is a normal pitch versus a fine pitch. Tighten to 40 ft-lbs. (refer to Fig. 10 for proper orientation.) 2. The lower ends of the links will attach to the inboard side of the new brackets on the axle using the original hardware. Torque to 40 ft-lbs. 4

VI. install high steer draglink 1. Apply anti-seize compound to the threads of the new draglink and thread it into the adjuster sleeve until the amount of thread showing is similar to the amount showing on the short side that is still attached to the pitman arm. 2. Twist the self locking tapered sleeve into the bottom of the knuckle mounting hole (the self-locking tapered sleeve is stored between the seal and the plastic seal shipping protective cover on the draglink outer end). 3. Install the top mount draglink into the knuckle hole from the top side and tighten the nut until the nylock on the nut engages. 4. Hold the hex, using a 10mm wrench, on the end of the ball stud to keep the stud from turning in the socket while tightening the ball stud nut using a 21mm wrench. Tighten until approximately 40 ft-lbs of torque is achieved. Once the 40 ft-lbs of torque is achieved, tighten to 125 ft-lbs using a 21mm socket. 5. Grease draglink socket through the zerk until grease purges around the boot seal; wipe off excess grease. VII. Install new steering damper 1. Loosen the clamp that holds the factory steering damper mount to the tie rod and slide it toward the driver s side several inches (out of the way for now). 2. Place the eye of the damper body onto the stud of the tie rod bracket, add the original nut and tighten. 3. Attach the damper to the new High Steer axle bracket orienting the hardware as shown (Fig. 7). NOTE: the Old Man Emu Steering damper includes a spacer sleeve for proper fitment on bolt. Rotate the black rubber boot on the damper so that the drainage holes are on the bottom. 4. To position the tie rod bracket properly, measure 19 1/4 from the edge of the tie rod tube to the center of the stud as shown (Fig. 8). Rotate the tie rod bracket until the stud is pointing just forward of straight up. Tighten the mounting bracket at this location. After the mounting bracket is tight, tighten the factory steering stabilizer to bracket nut, torquing to 37 ft-lbs. 5

Washer Free Nut Spacer Steering Damper Washer Lock Nut 40 ft/lbs Figure 7 Figure 8 19 1/4 VIII. SHOCK DOUBLER BRACKETS 1. Remove shocks at lower mount. 2. Install Shock Doubler brackets on both sides as shown using supplied hardware (Fig. 9). 3. Install shocks in Shock Doubler brackets as shown using supplied hardware (Fig. 9). Torque to 22 ft/lbs NOTE: Use a 3/8 drill bit or the provided self-tapping bolt to enlarge the factory hole. Torque to 22 ft/lbs NOTE: The front hole on the right side bracket will need to be drilled out to 3/8 Torque to 56 ft/lbs Figure 9 6

NOTE: On most late model JK and JKU, there is a cross member tube extending far enough out of the frame to interfere with the front sway bar. We recommend trimming this just outbound of the weld (Fig. 10). Remember to follow proper painting procedures to prevent corrosion. IX. Final torques* Figure 10 Now that the Jeep is fully assembled and sitting on its tires, you may re-torque all track bar and control arm bolts to factory torque specs. NOTE: This must be done with the vehicle resting on it s springs. TIP: It is good practice to mark each major bolted suspension connection such as these with a paint pen. Draw a line that runs from bolt head or nut to the adjacent bracket material. This will allow a visual inspection to easily catch bolts that work loose. After approximately 100 miles, you should perform a complete visual inspection an re-torque any suspect bolts as well as your wheel lug nuts. X. Adjustments and procal Assuming the Jeep was properly aligned prior to this installation; the only alignment parameter that has been altered is steering wheel center. We recommend using the AEV ProCal (available separately or as part of our DualSport SC Suspension Kits) to accurately center the steering wheel. This operation should be performed on an alignment rack. *Refer to Appendix for all torque specifications. Figure 10 7

appendix jk Factory Torque Specifications *nominal torque shown in ft. lbs. Front Suspension & Steering UCA bushings M12 75 LCA bushings M14 125 Track bar bushing frame M14 125 Track bar bushing axle M14 125 Stabilizer end link top M12 65 Stabilizer end link bottom M12 75 Shock Absorber upper M12 bayonet 20 lower M12 56 Steering gear 87 P/S pump to engine 21 High pressure hose pump 22 Hoses to steering gear 21 Intermediate shaft, all points M10 42 Intermediate shaft toe plate 100 in. lbs. Steering damper axle M12 50 cross-link M12 50 Pitman arm to gear 7/8 195 Pitman to drag link nut M14 78 Drag link to knuckle nut M14 125 Tie rod to knuckle nut M14 63 Tie rod clamp M10 45 Drag link clamp M10 26 Powertrain Mounts M10 bracket to block 45 M12 bracket to block 90 M12 Isolator to frame 85 diesel bracket to engine 85 diesel M12 Hydro mt to bracket 65 diesel M12 Hydro mt to frame 65 Transmission Mount M10 trans to mount 40 M10 mount to frame 40 Wheels (5 bolt circle/1.75 offset) 5 x 1/2 stud 105 Driveline T-case companion flange nut 210 Front driveshaft to front axle 80 to t-case 22 Rear driveshaft to rear axle 22 to t-case 22 Rear Suspension UCA bushings M14 125 LCA bushings M14 125 Track bar bushing frame M14 96 Track bar bushing axle M14 111 Stabilizer bar sill bushing M10 45 Stabilizer bar to link M12 66 Stabilizer bar link to axle M12 75 Shock Absorber upper M8 37 lower M12 56 Cab Mounts M10 short bolts 45 M12 stud FESM 80