954002 POWER EXHAUST SYSTEM 74-81 DODGE 440 CLASS A MOTORHOME PASSENGER SIDE EXIT Thank you very much for purchasing our Gibson Exhaust System For your vehicle. If you need further assistance, please do not hesitate to call our Technical Department at (800) 528-3044 Monday through Friday 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. PST 0604
WHEN THESE INSTRUCTIONS ARE FOLLOWED PRECISELY, YOU WILL FIND THE INSTALLATION OF YOUR EXHAUST SYSTEM TO BE RELATIVELY SIMPLE. WE CANNOT OVER EMPHASIZE THE IMPORTANCE OF ADHERING STRICTLY TO THIS PROVEN APPROACH, AS IT WILL VIRTUALLY ELIMINATE ANY DIFFICULTIES, WHICH YOU MIGHT OTHERWISE ENCOUNTER. LEGAL STATUS: THESE HEADERS ARE INTENDED FOR USE ON VEHIICLES, WHICH CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITHOUT A CATALYTIC CONVERTER. THE CALIFORNIA AIR RESOURCES BOARD CONSIDERS THESE TO BE A REPLACEMENT PART ON VEHICLES, WHICH DO NOT HAVE A CATALYTIC CONVERTER, AS LONG AS ALL OF THE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT EMISSION CONTROL DEVICES THAT ATTACH TO THE EXHAUST MANIFOLDS ARE RE-CONNECTED, AND FUNCTIONING PROPERLY. THIS MAKES THESE HEADERS SMOG LEGAL WITHOUT AN E.O. NUMBER. DUE TO RESTRICTED ROOM IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT, YOUR HEADERS MAY COME CLOSE TO CERTAIN BODY AND CHASSIS COMPONENTS. THIS IS A NORMAL CONDITION FOR AN INSTALLATION OF THIS TYPE. MAKE CERTAIN YOU HAVE ENOUGH CLEARANCE AROUND BRAKE, FUEL, AND ELECTRICAL LINES, ETC. IN SOME CASES, IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO RELOCATE ITEMS WHICH MIGHT BE ADVERSELY AFFECTED BY EXHAUST HEAT. WARNING: INSTALLATION OF ANY TYPE OF WRAPPING MATERIAL ONTO THE HEADERS WILL DESTROY THE HEAT DISSISPATION PROPERTIES OF THE TUBING, CAUSING PREMATURE DETERIORATION OF THE METAL AND SUBSEQUENT FAILURE. USE OF ANY WRAPPING WILL VOID THE WARRANTY.
TOOLS SUGGESTED 1/4" ALLEN WRENCH 3/8" BOX END WRENCH AND/OR 3/8" DEEP SOCKET 7/16" SOCKETS (ONE SHALLOW/ONE DEEP) 1/2" COMBINATION WRENCH 1/2" SOCKET 9/16" COMBINATION WRENCHES 9/16" LINE WRENCH 5/8" THIN WALL SPARK PLUG SOCKET 15MM DEEP SOCKET 22MM OPEN END WRENCH PLIERS 1/4" BOLT AT LEAST 1" LONG HEATING TORCH AND SELECTION OF HAMMERS HIGH TEMP SILICONE SEALER (RATED 600 DEGREES OR MORE) SAWSAW OR HACKSAW EXHAUST JACK STAND
NOTE: Many of these vehicles came from the factory with an "Early Fuel Evaporation Valve" (also known as a "HEAT RISER VALVE") attached onto the bottom of ONE of the stock exhaust manifolds. THE LAWS REQUIRE THE RE-INSTALLATION OF AN "E.F.E. VALVE" ON VEHICLES THAT CAME STOCK WITH ONE (and the smog station computers KNOW THE TRUTH!). PLEASE SEE ENCLOSED "HEAT RISER INFORMATION SHEET". RECOMMENDED OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT Chrysler Starter Heat Shield (#1934547) and Clamp (#1928293) Replacement "Heat Riser" or "E.F.E." Valve. (If vehicle was originally equipped with one) NOTE: Now is a good time to replace questionable motor mounts. All engines are not mounted exactly the same in all vehicles at the factory. In some cases, the motor mounts need to be loosened and the engine shifted slightly in the frame to provide the maximum clearance from some components. DISASSEMBLY 1. Raise front of vehicle approx. 24" and support with jack stands. WARNING: DO NOT RELY ON A BUMPER JACK FOR SUPPORT!!! (In some cases the front wheels may be removed for easier access.) 2. Disconnect battery to avoid accidental damage to electrical system. 3. Drain coolant from radiator and save. 4. Remove engine cover. ("DOG HOUSE") 5. Remove spark plugs. We recommend replacing the plugs with new, stock heat range units while you've got them out. 6. Remove spark plug shields and inspection plate from behind the brake master cylinder.
7. Remove starter. Mark your wires to make it easier to get them back in the right places. 8. Remove stock cast iron manifolds. 9. We recommend that you leave studs in the heads. If one should back out, use high-temp silicone sealer (a thick layer on threads of bolt) or Teflon tape around the coarse threads to seal in the coolant. Reinstall studs by locking two nuts together on the fine thread end. Make sure it goes into the head all the way -- approximately 1". 10. If you must remove some of the studs, pull all four of the middle studs and leave one on each end. Use only high-temp silicone sealer or Teflon tape to seal the threads anywhere header bolts are used on these heads, and use one internal tooth lock washer per bolt hole to insure a proper seal. Carefully check to be sure there are no water leaks from the boltholes! 11. Clean all carbon from head surface. WARNING: Be sure to clean ALL TRACES of carbon deposits off of the cylinder head exhaust port surfaces. MOST HEADER SEALING PROBLEMS OCCUR BECAUSE CARBON DEPOSITS WERE LEFT ON THE SEALING SURFACES! NOTE: While under vehicle, check to make sure that starter wiring is in good shape (not embrittled from previous heat damage) and that it is secured away from header. 12. Put a thin film of high-temp silicone sealer around ports on the head. 13. Apply our cylinder-head-to-header gasket to cylinder head. The two notches in the gasket must align with the two matching notches on the flange to insure proper fit. 14. Put a thin film of high-temp silicone sealer around header ports. 15. Place header in position from under vehicle, and start all nuts onto the studs. Start by tightening the bolts in the middle and work outwards. Torque Specs = 40ft/lbs. NOTE: Occasionally one or both of the engine's heads will have warped over time. This may require machining the head surface flat in order to get the header to seal properly. 16. Replace starter and reconnect wires. We strongly recommend the use of a factory starter shield (part #1934547) and clamp (#1928293), which is available from your Chrysler dealership. 17. Install spark plugs and wires. Spark plug wire covers are provided in the kit to be slipped over the wires for protection. THESE ENGINES NEED HIGH-TEMP WIRES!
IT IS CRITICAL that all bolts be re-tightened HOT after about 20 minutes of operation to prevent gasket failure. CAUTION! Gloves or other protection should be worn to protect the installer from burns due to hot exhaust system components during these final procedures! NOTE: THESE HEADERS ARE NOT MEANT TO SERVE AS "EXHAUST SYSTEM SUPPORT HANDERS". Additional hangers may need to be added at the time of the installation of the headers so that THE EXHAUST SYSTEM SUPPORTS ITSELF when the collector bolts are removed. HEADERS THAT HAVE "SAGGED" DUE TO THE LACK OF SUFFICIENT EXHAUST SYSTEM SUPPORT WILL NOT BE REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY! NOTE: Header bolts should be inspected for tightness from time to time to ensure optimum gasket life. The bolts will STRETCH some at first due to the exhaust heat, so they'll loosen WITHOUT TURNING until they "take a set". (Bolts hard enough not to stretch would BREAK!) We've experimented with the various "locking devices" on the market, which prevent bolts from turning. They DON'T WORK on HEADER BOLTS, and they greatly complicate the process of re-tightening the bolts when it's necessary. What DOES work is this: Go over the bolts again after the first DAY of driving (or about 100 miles - whichever comes first), then after the first WEEK, after the first MONTH, and then EVERY 6 MONTHS. Our exclusive gaskets are specially made so that the cylinder head SHOULD begin to melt before the gaskets can burn up. About the only way to kill these gaskets is to let the headers get loose and then keep driving with a leak. Due to varying conditions between geographical locations and usage, we strongly recommend having the engine re-tuned at a reputable tune-up shop after the installation of the headers. Having the carburetor jetted properly and the distributor advance curve set correctly to match the modifications you've made will ensure that you get the maximum benefit from the installation of the headers. LEAF SPRING SUBNOTE: Occasionally we hear that these headers come uncomfortably close to the factory front anti-sway bar on some "Class A's". In every case of this sort, it has been found that the leaf springs have sagged, the spring hanger bushings are worn, and/or the rubber suspension compression bumpers have worn out. We have seen this happen in both low-mileage and high-mileage vehicles, so it is apparently an age-related situation. The GOOD news is that, since it takes years to sag and most people don't notice it happening, replacing the worn components and restoring the suspension to the correct ride height (along with the increases in efficiency from the headers) makes the rig feel like it's brand new again! WE TRULY WISH TO HAVE ONLY SATISFIED CUSTOMERS!
EXHAUST COMPONENTS 954002 I B I J J J G H I C J I D H E H F ITEM PART # QUANTITY DESCRIPTION A GP315 1 CHROME HEADER B 500212 1 2-1/2" PASSENGER SIDE HEADPIPE C 500213 1 2-1/2" DRIVERS SIDE HEADPIPE D 22865 1 HEAVY DUTY MUFFLER E 70036 1 3" X 36" REAR EXTENSION PIPE F 50035R 1 3" PASSENGER SIDE TAILPIPE G 500360 1 3-1/2" STAINLESS STEEL TIP H OHD300 4 3" CLAMP I 5757 4 2-1/2" CLAMP J 08269 4 10" METAL HANGER J BO-101 4 BOLT KIT FOR 10 HANGER ADDITIONAL PARTS FOR WHEELBASE PART# 555555 1 3" X 36" EXTENSION PIPE 1 3" CLAMP 07/04
EXHAUST INSTRUCTIONS 1. Remove stock muffler and tailpipe. Use sawsall or hacksaw. 2. Attach welded flanges to headers with gasket collector between the flanges. 3. Install head pipe #B, #C onto welded header flanges and clamp down using # I. Attach 10 metal hanger # J to driver side head pipe and attach with clamp # I. 4. Install muffler # D onto head pipes and use clamp #I to attach. 5. Install rear extension pipe # E to outlet of muffler and attach with hanger # J and clamp # H. 6. Install driver side tailpipe # F to rear extension pipe and attach with hanger # J and clamp #H to rear extension pipe. Attach hanger # J and clamp # H to tailpipe. 7. Check for clearance on all pipes. 8. Install stainless tip. 9. Now tighten all clamps and bolts, etc. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE AT LEAST 1 CLEARANCE FROM ALL BRAKE, FUEL LINES, PIPES, ETC. HEAT RISERS AND THE 440 DODGE
What is a "HEAT RISER"? The Heat Riser is a valve that closes off the exhaust on one bank of a V-8's cylinders when it's cold. This routes the hot exhaust gasses from the closed off bank through the exhaust crossover at the center of the intake manifold and out through the exhaust manifold on the "open" side. The exhaust heat helps the gasoline in the cold intake manifold reach evaporation temperature more quickly, eliminating "piddling" of raw gasoline in the intake manifold and making the vehicle much more drivable when it's cold. As the engine warms up, the valve opens, allowing the exhaust to flow out through both headers. Then what is an "E.F.E. Valve"? The "E.F.E." stands for "Early Fuel Evaporation", and "E.F.E. Valve" is frequently considered to be a new name for the Heat Riser. However, some vehicles have what they call an "E.F.E. System". An E.F.E. System might include BOTH a Heat Riser in the exhaust manifold AND a "Heat Stove" or "Hot Air Pickup" that draws the engine's intake air across one of the exhaust manifolds to preheat it during cold-start conditions. Whatever combination your vehicle came stock with MUST be re-installed and reconnected when the headers go on or the headers become 50 STATE ILLEGAL! If in doubt, PLEASE consult either your new-car dealership parts department or an authorized inspection/maintenance station in your area. What controls the operation of the heat riser? There are two types of heat risers - MECHANICAL and VACUUM. The mechanical types use a bi-metallic strip which works like a heat sensitive spring, opening the valve when it gets hot enough. The vacuum type uses a vacuum canister similar to the vacuum advance on an ignition distributor. Vacuum routed through a heat sensitive switch (usually monitoring engine coolant temperature) pulls the valve closed when the engine is cold, and then allows it to open by shutting off the vacuum supply when normal operating temperature is reached. THE 440 DODGE USES THE "MECHANICAL TYPE" HEAT RISER.