Remote Controlled Fart Machine Assembly Instructions These instructions show how to build the Remote Controlled Fart machine Sound Kit. Tools Required Drill with 7/64, 3/16, and ¼ drill bits. Holt melt glue gun Soldering iron and solder Wire cutters Wire strippers Small Phillips head screw driver Parts List Image Components 40 mm Speaker Length of wire (cut into two equal pieces) 3 x AA battery box 20k Ω resistor 100 Ω resistors (2) 26-pin connector IR Receiver PCB IR Receiver Sensor ON/OFF switch 0.22µF capacitor Sound PCB In addition to the electrical components you should have a black plastic enclosure with cover, and four (4) screws. There is also a paper template for drilling the holes.
Before you begin: 1.) Make sure that all the parts in the parts list are present and accounted for. 2.) Read through the entire assembly guide before you start, so that you have a better idea of how the whole kit comes together. This will help prevent mistakes as you go along. Let s get building! Assembly Instructions Component/Part Image Instruction We re going to start by building the IR Receiver PCB (shown at the left). The first component we re going to install is one of the 100 Ω resistors. The 100 Ω resistor is the one with the brownblack-brown color bands. Bend the leads of the resistor and insert it in to the location labeled R1 on the PCB. When installing the resistors, the direction doesn t matter. They can be installed in either direction.
Once the resistor is inserted all the way and resting against the PCB, flip the board over and bend the leads out a bit to hold the resistor in place. With your soldering iron, solder both leads of the resistor to the PCB. When both leads are soldered, they should look like the picture shown at the left. With your wire clippers, clip the leads close to the PCB. Awesome! You re done installing the first component.
Now repeat that same process with the other 100 Ω resistor (brown-black-brown color bands). This resistor gets installed into location R4 as shown at the left. Solder it into place and then clip the leads. Now install and solder the 20 kω resistor (redblack-orange color bands). This resistor gets installed into location R2 as shown at the left. As always, clip the leads when you re done. The next part that gets installed is the capacitor. This is the blue component shown in the picture at the left. This gets installed into location C2 as shown at the left. With the capacitor, the direction doesn t matter. It can be installed in either direction. Now we re going to install the ON/OFF switch. This goes into to the location labeled S1. Try to keep the switch pressed flat against the circuit board when you solder it into place.
The next component to get installed on this board is the IR receiver sensor. This is the sensor that picks up the signal from the remote control. This goes into location U1 (IR RX). When installing this part, push it down through the holes until the bent part of the leads are down to the circuit board. Make sure the bubble part of the sensor is facing OUT. Then solder it into place and clip the leads. The last part to be installed on this board is the 26-pin connector. The short leads of the connector should be installed in the board with the long leads of the connector sticking up as shown at the left. Flip the board over and solder all of the pins on the connector. (Try to keep the connector pressed flat against the board when you solder the first couple of pins.) When you re done soldering all of these components, the underside of the board should look like the picture to the left. Once the 26-pin connector is installed and soldered, you can place the sound board onto the connector. The 26 holes on the edge of the sound board fit perfectly over the connector as shown to the left. Make sure the proper side of the sound board is facing up as shown at the left. (Don t install it upside down!)
With the two boards placed together, solder one or two pins on the connector and then check to see that the sound board is sitting flat on the connector. It doesn t need to be perfect, but it helps to have it nice and neat. Finish soldering the remaining pins on the 26- pin connector. Hooray! The main electronics part is done, so now we can move on to the battery box and the speaker. On the IR Receiver board, you ll see two holes labeled BAT. This is where the leads from the battery box will go. Solder the red lead from the battery box into the square hole labeled +. Solder the black lead from the battery box into the round hole labeled -. Here s a close up of those connections: Your sound kit includes one length of wire. Cut this wire into two equal pieces. These will be used to wire the speaker to the sound board. Strip about 1/8 inch of insulation off of each end of both wires.
Solder one end of one wire to the + terminal of the speaker and solder one end of the other wire to the terminal of the speaker, as shown in the image at the left. On the sound board there are two holes labeled JP2. This is where the speaker connections go. Solder the lead from + terminal of the speaker to the square hole at JP2. Solder the lead from - terminal of the speaker to the round hole at JP2. At this point all the electronics are complete and you can try out your sound machine to see if it works. Install 3 AA batteries, turn the unit ON, and then trigger it with a remote control. (There is a marking on the IR Receiver board that shows which position is ON and which is OFF.) If it doesn t work make sure everything is installed in the right location and soldered properly. If it does work, AWESOME! If the sound quality is not so great, don t worry. The speaker needs to be installed into the box to get good sound.
Your kit comes with a paper template you can use to drill the speaker holes. Cut out this template on the dotted line and tape it to the top of the box cover. We suggest you tape it on all four sides to hold it in place. Using a 7/64 inch drill bit (or 1/8 inch drill bit), drill out all the small holes shown on the template. Follow the same procedure for the two holes on the front end of the box. Cut out the template along the dotted lines and tape it to the front of the bottom half of the box. One of these holes (1/4 inch drill bit) is for the IR Receiver sensor. One of these holes (3/16 inch drill bit) is for the ON/OFF switch to poke through.
Now it s time to install the electronics into the box. Place the IR Receiver / Sound Board assembly into the box and position it so that the slider for the ON/OFF switch pokes through the smaller hole in the front of the box. Make sure it s aligned so that the slider can freely move left and right for both the ON and OFF positions. Once this assembly is in place, apply some hot glue along the sides of the IR Receiver board to firmly hold it in place. Once the glue has set, recheck the alignment of the ON/OFF switch and the IR Receiver sensor. If it s off by the wee bit, that s probably OK. Position the speaker against the inside of the cover so that the solder terminals are on the left-hand side, and position it so that it s centered behind the speaker hole pattern. Hold the speaker in place against the cover and use hot glue to glue the outer edge of the speaker frame to the cover. Be careful not to get any glue on the speaker cone itself. Put a continuous (thin) bead of glue around the entire speaker frame, making sure there are no open gaps.
You did it! Your completed kit should look like the picture at the left. Put the top cover onto the box. Using a small Phillips head screw driver, secure it with the four screws that were included with the kit. All done! Go make some noise! Because this kit works with an IR remove control, the IR Sensor on the sound kit needs to be unobstructe. Keep this in mind when you re using the sound box. If you re not able to trigger the sound box then you may need to relocate it or trigger it from a different direction. Turn your sound kit OFF when not in use to preserve battery life.