Vegas Carts & Performance 2995 Coleman St North Las Vegas, NV 89032 702-530-7753 VegasCarts.com 625cc Big Block Installation Instructions 1984-1996 Club Car DS / Carryall (DOES NOT FIT INGERSOLL RAND BOBCAT) Released 6/2/2018 1
It is highly recommended to take pictures of your engine bay prior to removing the OEM engine and its components. This will save time if you ever need to revert back to the stock setup. If you currently have a Torque Spring or any spring with extra tension above the OEM specs, installed in your rear (Secondary) drive clutch, you should remove and replace with the factory spring before installing this kit. The extra tension will delay shift out and limit the top speed of your cart. In some cases, it can be as much as 10mph Please read through the entire instructions prior to starting on your installation. There are many ways to install our kit, depending on the current state of your cart, you may be able to skip some steps or move some around. NEVER START YOUR ENGINE WITHOUT THE DRIVE BELT INSTALLED! The outer clutch sheave will slam into the inner sheave and damage your clutch. If you want to test your engine or run it without a belt, you must first remove the primary drive clutch. 2
Tools Needed for Installation: (2) 14mm or 9/16 Wrenches (Open-End or Closed) Screwdriver Set Drill with various drill bits including ¼ Saw capable of cutting steel (Sawzall, Die Grinder, hacksaw, etc) Socket & Ratchet Set High Temp Loc-tite or nickel equivalent Anti-Seize Lubricant Ft-Lb Torque Wrench (Recently Calibrated) Measuring Tape NOTICE: Pictures are taken from multiple installs where there may be minor differences from the actual kit you received. There may be some photos showing a different air box or air filter or slightly different mounting hardware. This will not affect your kits installation or performance in any way! LIFTED CART ADVISORY: Although lifted carts are common, we develop all of our kits on un-lifted and un-modified carts. There are dozens of lift kit manufacturers and it would be impossible to develop a universal kit that fits all of them. We will do our best to assist with any clearance issues, however, we cannot and will not guarantee fitment for lifted carts. 3
84-96 Club Car DS / Carryall Kit Parts List: A. Club Car 3-Piece Mount (Top, Left & Right) a. 4pc - ⅜ x 16tpi x 1 Carriage Bolts b. 4pc - ⅜ x 16tpi Lock Nuts c. 12pc - Washer d. 4pc - Rubber Vibration Isolators e. 8pc - M10 x 1.5mm Locking Nuts Installed on Engine: 1. Billet Air Filter Adapter 2. 132mm Long Carb Studs 3. Intake Gasket B. Box Muffler a. 2pc - Exhaust Gaskets b. 2pc - Long M8 Gold Muffler Bolts c. 4pc - M8 Crimped Lock Nut C. 780R Clutch a. 1pc - ⅜ x 24tpi x 3 Clutch Bolt b. 1pc - Aluminum Step Washer c. 1pc - 4 Straight Keyway 3/16 x ¼ D. CVTech Invance Secondary Clutch a. 5/16-18tpi x 3 Hex Clutch Bolt b. 3/16 x 5 Key, E. Throttle Box Relocation Bracket a. ¾ Aluminum Spacers (5/16 Hole) b. 2pc - 5/16-18tpi x 2 Carriage Bolts c. 2pc - Locking Nuts d. 2pc - Washer F. Throttle Bracket a. 2pc - 5/16 x 1.5 Carriage Bolts b. 2pc - 5/16 Washer c. 2pc - 5/16 Crimped Lock Nut G. (2) Dogbones a. 4pc - ⅜ x 16tpi x 2 Hex Bolts b. 4pc - ⅜ Washer H. Starter Solenoid Relocation Bracket a. 2pc - 6mm x 25mm Phillips Screw b. 2pc - 6mm Flange Nut I. Performance Angled Air Filter J. Exhaust Header K. Key Switch L. Fuel Filter M. 6ft of Fuel Line N. Extended Drive Belt O. Extended Throttle Cable (1984-1991 ONLY) a. Cable Clamp w/clip 4
HD Secondary Clutch Installation : Installation is as simple as removing the OEM clutch and replacing it with the larger and more robust CVTech INvance Secondary. On carts that do not have a lift kit (and some that do) you will likely have to remove the suspension (Leaf Spring & Shock) on the passenger side in order to be able to jack the cart high enough to gain sufficient clearance for the new clutch to be installed. Soaking the old clutch in PB Blaster or equivalent compound will help with removal. (We have heard of instances where carts that have been near Salt Water for long periods of time are VERY difficult to remove. Keep this in mind before starting your install.) Coating the input shaft with Anti-Seize lubricant(upon installation of the new clutch) will ensure that removal is a breeze, should you ever need to remove the new clutch. Make sure to remove the OEM retainer washer from your OEM clutch and re-use to retain your new HD Clutch with the new 5/16 x 3" bolt that comes with your kit! 5
Remove all original hardware and engine mounts, leaving only the main cradle in the engine bay and the shifter & brake cables in-tact. All electrical lines going to the original engines ignition coil and starter can be bundled together and tucked away or removed completely. This instructions assume that your engine bay looks something like this: (1986 Model DS Pictured - Square Throttle Box) 6
The 84-96 engine mount will be shipped to you in 3 pieces. Use the pictures on the next page as a guide to assist with assembly, The largest U-shaped piece goes in the center, the largest L bracket fastens to the passenger side, and the smaller L bracket fastens to the drivers side. There are 4 rubber isolators that are included and used in between the main center section and the (2) L-brackets as shown. These "Vibration Isolators" considerably dampen the vibration that is unique to single cylinder engines. The engine mount is held on by (4) 3/8 x 1" carriage bolts. This allows you to adjust for side to side differences in clutches, engines, and belts without having to use 2 wrenches. (Do not tighten these bolts at this time, just get them snug enough to where you can still move the engine mount into your desired position while installing the engine.) Additionally, the belt tension can be easily adjusted by loosening the outward facing locking nuts and moving the center section of the mount forward or back. The mount is reversible so if the engine does not line up and the slots in the L brackets are maxed out, you can flip the mount around 180 degrees to get additional side to side adjustment. (Be sure to leave bolts loose to align clutches later.) 7
(Older Black Powdercoated Steel Mount Shown in 1986 Club Car DS) (Newer Machined Aluminum Mount Shown in 1992 Club Car DS w/angled Throttle Box) 8
Throttle Box Relocation (Lifted Carts Only!) Lifted Carts usually have clearance issues between the Air Filter and the Throttle Box. This is because lifted carts have a swing arm that sits further away from the frame which drops the motor further down. Refer to the below pictures regarding relocation bracket installation. Hardware & (2) Spacers are provided with the bracket. There are 2 slots on one side of the bracket so it will universally fit 84-91 Square Throttle Boxes and 92-96 Angled Throttle Boxes (shown on pages 6 & 8). 9
Your throttle bar will need to be bent slightly to accommodate the increased angle. Not to worry, it won t break! 10
The engine will need to be prepared before it is put into the cart. The first step is to relocate the starter solenoid. This is due to a clearance issue with the rear transaxle. Refer to before and after pictures below to see how this is done. The starter solenoid is first removed from the starter housing by unscrewing the 2 phillips head screws. (They are tight, be careful not to strip them.) BEFORE: 11
The solenoid is then bolted to the Starter Solenoid Relocation Bracket using the provided hardware. The black Starter Solenoid Relocation Bracket is then bolted to the engine block using one of the side cover bolt AFTER: 12
Your kit came with a 4 x 1/4" x 3/16" key. It should be a relatively tight fit into the key slot on the engines crankshaft. We want it to be tight so the slot does not wear over time. Due to the tolerance between the slot and the key, you may have to gently tap the key into the slot with a hammer or dead-blow. If you cannot get the key to fit, you can lightly sand or file one side of the key until it fits. Remember, we DO NOT want a loose fitting key! 13
Apply a light coat of Anti-Seize lubricant onto the crankshaft to make future removal of the clutch easier. Slide your clutch onto the output shaft and secure the clutch using the provided aluminum step washer and the 3/8-24 bolt. (Older kits use a lock washer, 2 large washers, and a cup washer.) Apply blue loc-tite to the 3/8-24 x 3 clutch bolt threads and Torque to 40 ft-lbs. 14
The engine is fastened to the engine mount using 2 specialized hold downs(front & rear), which we have nicknamed Dogbones (April 2018). These are a huge improvement over the carriage bolts of years past. These parts allow the installer to loosen the engine and adjust the belt tension...one handed. See pictures below. (If you have an older kit without these, they are cheap and turn what used to be a 10 minute job into a 30 second job. 15
You are now ready to put the engine into the golf cart and onto the engine mount. Unless you are The Hulk, this is probably going to be a 2 person job. You are going to have to tilt the engine up at an angle to fit through the body. After the engine has been bolted to the engine plate, slide the air filter on to the billet adapter and tighten the hose clamp. The belt slides over the primary clutch and then over the secondary. Rotate the secondary while pushing on the belt and it will pop on. The centers of both clutches need to be lined up by moving the engine mount assembly side to side. There is no scientific way to do this other than with your eyes and possibly a straight edge. 16
Once the drive belt is straight on both clutches, tighten all (4) carriage bolts that mount to the factory cradle to lock in the side to side adjustment. Adjust your belt tension by sliding the engine towards the front of the golf cart. You will want between 1"-1.5" of deflection when pressing on the top of the belt. Belt tension will need to be fine tuned after the install, so its not critical at this point. Double check your belt is aligned and tighten the engine bolts. Using a measuring tape, the center distance between the clutches should read between 11 to 12 17
The muffler needs to be installed onto the exhaust header pipe prior to being bolted to the engine. Ensure you install (1) of the provided gaskets in-between the muffler and exhaust header flange. The long M8 bolts go through the muffler, the gasket, and then the flange with the bolt heads on the muffler side. Don't forget to use the lock-washers and tighten them considerably or your muffler WILL fall off! 18
The header/muffler will need to be installed on the engine with the engine already in the cart. This is much more difficult on un-lifted carts as you will have to rotate the exhaust setup at different angles to get it past the engine and axle. It is much easier than trying to bolt the muffler on with the header already installed on the engine! 19
Slide the header flange onto the studs coming out of the engines exhaust port. Let the rear support sit on top of the engines rear angled tabs. You will now install the Throttle Linkage Bracket on top of the exhaust support bracket. The 5/16 x 1.5 carriage bolts slide in from the bottom of the engines top support arms and fasten down using washers and lock nuts as pictured. Make sure to tighten the lock nuts on the exhaust port BEFORE tightening the bolts holding in the rear support bracket and throttle linkage bracket! 20
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Use the clear fuel line provided to plumb the rest of the fuel system as shown below. The fuel filter goes in between the clear fuel line and the black line on the engine (which goes to the carb). The fuel filter has arrows on it which show you the correct direction of fuel flow. Green Arrow represents the hose to the fuel pump from the gas tank. Blue arrow represents the hose from the fuel pump to the carburetor. Yellow Arrow represents the hose from the fuel pump to the pulse fitting at the rear of the engine, just above the starter. (NOTE: It is Important the all lines fit tightly to their respective fittings, a loose vacuum line from the pulse fitting on the engine can cause all sorts of fuel delivery gremlins.) 22
Installing the extended throttle cable (84-91 Only!) If you have a 1992-1996 Model Cart, Skip to Page 26 The first generation Club Car DS (84-91) is factory equipped with a very short throttle cable that will not reach the engine. We provide an extended cable that is ready to replace your OEM one. Here are the steps to remove & replace it: 1.Remove the throttle cable by pulling the spherical clip off of the bellcrank, then remove the large nut shown in the picture below.(wd40 helps!) 2. Remove the nut securing the ball stud. 23
3. Evenly grind both sides of the bellcrank near the area where the ball stud was. You only need to remove 1/64" on both sides, just enough to clear the C-Clip. 4. Install the wire clamp through the hole where the ball stud was and fasten it using the provided C-Clip. 24
5. Re-Install the bellcrank assembly back into your throttle box, you can then fasten the wire from your new throttle cable to the provided cable clamp. 25
You are now ready to connect the throttle cable. The factory cable end can now be fastened to the governor arm using your spring hook. Slide the cable through the slot labeled CC (shown) on the throttle bracket and insert the cable end through the hole. Push on the factory C-Clip. (We know these are easily lost and carry them in stock if you lose yours. ) Ensure that the throttle is opening fully when the gas pedal is depressed. Sometimes the throttle arm return spring overpowers the factory throttle cable spring and prevents the carb from opening all the way. Attach a ziptie to the throttle spring as shown below, to fix this issue. 26
Your completed installation should look like the picture below: Placement of fuel lines can vary. We provide enough line so you can route it any way you d like. 27
****You will now need to refer to the 625cc wiring diagram to get the Electrical portion of this install completed.**** -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Once you have completed all of the electrical wiring and the key switch works as intended. It s time for initial startup, idle speed tuning and belt tension tuning. DON T FORGET TO FILL THE ENGINE WITH OIL... IT TAKES 1-1.5 QUARTS OF 10W30 ENGINE OIL. If your engine is sitting level, you can rely on the dipstick to tell you when it s full. The engine can be filled from the valve cover using a flexible funnel. The Black plastic screw on the top of your carburetor is your idle speed screw (pictured). Turning the screw Counter-Clockwise will lower idle speed, Clockwise will increase idle speed! 28
(Jack the rear of your cart up off the ground as a safety precaution before proceeding!) A tachometer is HIGHLY recommended for fine-tuning and to keep an eye on your engine when driving. We sell a large analog tachometer for $49.99 on our website, you can also use a cheaper digital induction tachometer which can be found online for $15. First startup may take some time as the fuel pump needs to prime and fill the carburetor with fuel before the engine will fire. Turn the engine over and pulse the gas pedal until it fires. You can use the yellow manual choke if you are in very cold weather. Once you get the engine to idle, adjust the idle speed screw so your tachometer reads 2000rpm. Let the engine idle at 2000rpm for 10 minutes. During this time, pay close attention to the engine and look for oil and fuel leaks, loose bolts, exhaust leaks, etc. After 10 minutes, the engine will be at full operating temperature. At this point, you can re-adjust your idle speed screw down until the engine idles at around 1100rpm. Any lower then 1100 and the engine will die on hard stops, higher than 1300 and you will have difficulty shifting with the engine running. Turn the engine off and verify the key switch is working to kill the engine. If you are confident that everything is in good running order and the cart is safe to drive, put it back on the ground, start it back up and take it around the block! Your drive belt tension will need to be adjusted after your belt is broken-in. The belt will stretch from heat and increase in length within an hour of driving. 29