SLS825 Weistec Supercharger System Installation Guide 2010-Present SLS AMG (Gullwing and Roadster) 2014 SLS Black Series
WARNING! DO NOT HAVE YOUR ECU REPROGRAMMED ANYWHERE BUT AT WEISTEC FOR THIS SUPERCHARGER. THE AMG 63 USES AN ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL (ETC), WHICH IS CONTROLLED BY THE ENGINE CONTROL UNIT (ECU) AND THE CALIBRATION INSIDE. A REFLASH DOES NOT PROPERLY RECALIBRATE THE ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM; THIS CREATES A DANGEROUS SITUATION THAT COULD RESULT IN A STUCK THROTTLE AND CAN LEAD TO INJURY OR DEATH. WEISTEC FULLY REPROGRAMS THE ECU TO MERCEDES STANDARDS, AND ENSURES THAT ALL ENGINE SAFETY CONTROLS ARE FULLY FUNCTIONAL. 1
WARNING! THE WEISTEC M156 SUPERCHARGER AND ACCOMPANYING PROGRAMMING ARE DESIGNED AROUND THE USE OF 91 OCTANE FUEL OR HIGHER ONLY. BEFORE YOU RUN YOUR MERCEDES WITH THE WEISTEC M156 SUPERCHARGER INSTALLED EVEN ONCE, YOU MUST EITHER DRAIN THE FUEL TANK COMPLETELY AND FILL IT UP WITH 91 OCTANE, OR BEGIN USING 91 OCTANE IN YOUR MERCEDES TWO COMPLETE FILLUPS BEFORE INSTALLATION. 2
WARNING! IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED IN THE AREA OF AUTOMOTIVE MECHANICS, WE STRONGLY URGE THAT YOU REFER THIS INSTALLATION TO A CERTIFIED INSTALLER OR TECHNICIAN. 3
WARNING! THE WEISTEC M156 SUPERCHARGER MUST BE FILLED WITH 160 ml OF PROVIDED OIL PRIOR TO ROTATION OF THE COMPRESSOR SCREW SYSTEM OR YOUR WARRANTY WILL BE VOIDED. 4
WEISTEC M156 SUPERCHARGER Installation Guide for MERCEDES AMG 63 Thank you for your purchase of the Weistec M156 Supercharger for the Mercedes AMG 63 with the 6.3L motor. We appreciate your business, and we know you will enjoy your product. For your benefit, please read the following instructions completely and thoroughly before attempting to install the supercharger. Many questions we have received from customers about the installation of our products that could have been easily solved by information listed in the accompanying installation guide. We want you to enjoy the product in its fully functional state, and reading this tutorial is the first step to getting you on your way to a more rare and powerful Mercedes AMG. PLEASE NOTE THAT IF YOU HAVE ANY AFTERMARKET POWERTRAIN PARTS ALREADY INSTALLED ON YOUR VEHICLE, YOU MUST RETURN THE CAR TO STOCK STATUS THIS INCLUDES PULLEYS, PROGRAMMING, ETC. THE CAR WILL NOT FUNCTION AND PARTS MAY NOT FIT PROPERLY IF OTHER AFTERMARKET PARTS ARE INSTALLED. We strongly urge that you also have at least one person to help you install the supercharger, as the unit is heavy. You will soon be on your way to installing the World's First Supercharger for the 6.3L! Again, thank you for choosing Weistec Engineering! 5
Table of Contents Tools Required... 7 I. Disassembly... 1 II. Bumper and Underbody Removal... 13 III. Weistec M156 Supercharger Installation... 14 IV. Direct Drive Cradle and Air Pump Delete Installation... 19 V. Power Steering Reservoir and Air Pump Relocation... 59 VI. Intercooler System Installation and Plumbing... 60 VII. Bumper and Underbody Installation... 70 VIII. Supplementary Installation and Fluid Check... 71 6
Tools Required Hydraulic Jack or service lift Jack Stands or transmission stand 1/4 Drive Ratchet 12" Long 1/4" Drive Extension 6.5mm 1/4 Drive Deep Well Socket 8mm 1/4 Drive Deep Well Socket 10mm 1/4 Drive Deep Well Socket 17mm 3.8" Drive Deep Well Socket 10mm Open End Wrench 13mm Open End Wrench 14mm Open End Wrench 15mm Open End Wrench 17mm Open End Wrench 1" Open End Wrench 8mm Ratcheting Wrench 3/8 Drive Ratchet 13mm 3/8" Drive Socket 16mm 3/8 Drive Deep Well Socket Vice 17mm 3/8" Drive Deep Well Socket 19mm Heavy Duty Deep Well Socket T-25 1/4" Drive Torx Bit T 30 1/4" or 3/8 Drive Torx Bit T-45 3/8" Drive Torx Bit T-50 3/8" Drive Torx Bit E-8 3/8" Drive Reverse Torx Bit E-14 3/8" Drive Reverse Torx Bit Flat Head Screw Driver Wire Cutter Crimping Pliers Wire Stripper Pushpin Removal Tool 6mm Drive Hex Bit 8mm Drive Hex Bit Mechanics Rags Vacuum Painters Tape Fluid evacuator Impact Gun (Optional) Crimp Style clamp tool 5mm Drill bit Drill 1 1/4" Hole Saw Grinder (Optional) Torque Wrench Spark Plug/Ring Feeler Gauge 9/16" Deep Well 3/8" Drive Spark Plug Socket 7
I. Disassembly Order of Operations Before removing battery terminal, double check vehicle is in Park, and driver side window is completely down. 1. Disconnect the Negative battery terminal by: a. Raising and supporting hood. b. Removing battery ground strap using 10mm Drive Socket and 3/8" Ratchet. Ground Strap c. Swinging ground strap away from battery away from ground post. 2. Remove ECU by: a. Unplugging chassis and engine harness from ECU, by sliding both tabs. 1
b. Using a 10mm Drive Socket, 12" extension, and a 3/8" Ratchet, remove retaining bolt between body and battery. c. Using a 10mm Drive Socket, and 3/8" Ratchet, remove 10mm retaining bolt on side of body near the harness. 3. Remove the air intake system and shrouding from the vehicle by: 2
a. Removing plastic MAF clips. b. Unplugging both MAF's. c. Removing Mercedes engine cover. d. Using Flat Head Screw Driver or 6.5mm Socket to loosen both Clamps. e. Removing both air boxes and inlet tubes. f. Lifting the air box assemblies from the vehicle. g. Removing dry sump oil tank cover by removing oil cap, pulling upwards on cover, and reinstalling the oil cap. Place all removed parts in a safe location. Some parts will be reused. 4. Removing Windshield cowl by: a. Removing both windshield wipers by removing bolt covers with a Flat Head Screw Driver, and removing retaining nut using a 13mm Socket and 3/8" Extension. (Be sure to mark the location of the blade on the windshield to 3
properly install when putting back on the vehicle) b. Removing both pins near firewall with a Push Pin Removal Tool. c. Removing all rubber shrouding to gain access under the cowl. d. Firmly lifting upwards on cowl and unclipping to remove completely. 5. Remove intake manifold by: a. Disconnecting the evaporative line underneath both throttle bodies. b. Removing both throttle bodies by using a T-30 Torx Bit and a 3/8" Ratchet. 4
c. Removing brake booster vacuum line on left side of intake manifold by pushing inward on red tab and pulling line out. (Pull line through shroud into brake booster compartment to gain easy access to intake manifold. ) d. Removing intake manifold lid with a T-30 Torx bit, a T-45 Torx bit, and a 3/8" Ratchet. There are 20 T-30 torx bolts and 3 T-45 torx bolts total. e. Unplugging the map sensor clip and intake air temperature clip on the left side of the manifold. f. Unplugging air pump vacuum line on the front of the mid section. (be sure to keep the blue valve on the vehicle side. It will be used.) g. Removing mid section of intake manifold with a E-10 Reverse Torx bit, a 3/8" Ratchet, and a 12" extension. PCV Location Bolts h. Moving midsection upwards and to the side reach behind manifold and remove PCV valve with a T-30 Torx bit and 1/4" Ratchet. i. Removing fuel rails by disconnecting fuel line using 14mm Open End Wrench and 17mm Open End Wrench. Please be aware that the fuel system may retain fuel pressure that can be extremely dangerous if removed suddenly. Proceed with caution. Please be aware of dripping fuel that may get on parts that can be affected. Please cover fuel line with a shop rag in this case. 5
j. Disconnecting fuel rail pressure sensor clip from fuel rail. k. Removing fuel rails from manifold using a T-30 Torx Bit, and a 3/8" Ratchet. l. Removing lower intake manifold using a T-45 Torx Bit, a 12" extension, and a 3/8" Ratchet. m. Lifting upward on lower manifold to unclip air pump wiring harness, and disconnecting air pump tube. n. Disconnecting ground strap for air pump from the rear of the left cylinder head using a T45 Torx Bit, and an open end wrench. Because there is very little clearance behind cylinder head, use this tool combination Note: Disconnect air pump harness and route through plastic firewall on left side of vehicle. (Into the brake booster, or battery compartment) o. Lifting upward on lower manifold, and removing from vehicle. p. Vacuuming area near ports to collect all trapped dust and debris. q. Removing intake manifold gaskets and placing painters tape on runners. 6. Remove both rear engine hoist brackets by: a. Removing 3 T-45 Torx bolts from right side of vehicle. b. Cutting harness zip tie from bracket and removing bracket. c. Removing 3 T-45 Torx bolts from left side of vehicle. d. Removing brackets. 7. Remove Air Pump located under lower intake manifold by: a. Flipping lower intake manifold. 6
b. Removing complete air pump assembly with bracket using a T-30 Torx Bit and a 3/8" Drive Ratchet. Three T-30 Torx Bolts here. 8. Install new spark plugs by: a. Removing all eight spark plug coils using a T-30 Torx Bit and a 1/4" Drive Ratchet. b. Firmly lifting upwards to remove coils from cylinder heads. c. Using a 3/8" Drive Ratchet, 6" extension, and a 9/16" Spark Plug Socket, loosen and pull all eight plugs from hole. Please be aware of any debris or foreign material that may fall inside cylinder. This can damage engine parts. Never reach over spark plug hole with any tools or hardware, as this can lead to objects dropping in hole. 7
d. Gap new spark plugs to.028" using a Spark plug/ring feeler Gauge. Failure to properly gap spark plugs will cause misfiring or pre-ignition. Please follow instruction carefully and use best mechanical judgment. e. Reinstalling spark plugs, and coils. Be sure to plug all eight coil wires in. 9. Remove power steering reservoir and bracket by (Skip this Step for SLS Black Series): a. Removing all fluid with the use of a fluid evacuator. b. Removing T-25 Torx bolt from reservoir tab. c. Lifting up and disconnecting 2 lines from the front of the engine. (Remove hard lines with reservoir.) d. Use rags to reduce spillage. e. Disconnecting retaining clip for air pump solenoid. f. Removing 4 T-45 bolts and eliminate engine bracket. 10. Remove plastic electrical harness cover by: a. Lifting upwards and cutting all zip ties. 8
b. Separating plastic harness cover and completely removing. c. Covering exposed wiring with black electrical tape. 11. Modify Injector, Intake Air Temperature, Map Sensor, and Fuel Pressure Sensor wiring by: a. Cutting eight factory injector pigtails with a Wire Cutting Tool. Cut Here 9
b. Replacing factory pigtail with supplied injector pigtail, using Crimping Pliers against supplied butt-connector. Strip wiring insulation Slide heat shrink before crimping. Use heat gun to shrink. Crimp both ends here 10
c. Carefully cutting Map Sensor wire pigtail 1.5" away from plug, and crimping on new extension. Cut Map Sensor Plug, IAT Plug, and FPS Plug Approx 1.5" away from connector as shown here and extend d. Using included heat shrink on all crimp joints and be sure to have no wiring or metal showing through. Use, supplied heat shrink over all wiring joints. 12. Disconnect Dry Sump Oil Tank By: a. Disconnecting both upper oil vent lines using a 13mm Socket at a 3/8" Ratchet. 11
b. Disconnecting large return line on the right side of the tank by undoing V-band clamp using a T-30 Torx bit and an 3/8" Ratchet. c. Removing two upper mounting bolts using a T-30 Torx bit and a 3/8" Ratchet, and two side nuts using a 10mm Socket and a 3/8" Ratchet. 12
II. Bumper and Underbody Removal 1. Safely place vehicle on vehicle hoist or stands. 2. Remove belly pan, and bumper shrouds by: a. Using 8mm Socket and 1/4" Drive to remove complete underbody and set in a safe location. b. Using Push Pin Removal Tool, remove five pins from left and right side wheel well and underbody. (Total varies on build date.) c. Removing turn signal light on left and right side of bumper. d. Using an 8mm Ratcheting Wrench, remove both bolts inside Signal hole. e. Using 8mm Socket, 12" long 1/4" extension, and 1/4" Drive, remove top bumper bolts between headlight mount and grill. f. Removing bumper support using T-30 Torx Bit and a 3/8" Ratchet from radiator support. (Four bolts total) g. Pulling both side grills from the bottom of the bumper to gain access. h. Using 8mm Socket, 12" long 1/4" extension, and 1/4" Drive, remove bolt from either side of lower grill in corner. i. With the help of one more person, slide bumper forward and remove. j. Setting bumper in a safe location. k. Removing lower chassis support straps under vehicle using a T-45 Torx bit and a 3/8" ratchet. 13
III. Weistec Supercharger Installation Always keep your work area clean for this process. 1. Install Supercharger System by: a. Removing Supercharger from Box A and clean and dust or debris from system. b. Removing runner cover tags, and all vacuum port plastic covers. Do NOT remove throttle body covers. c. Removing painters tape from ports and double check a clean surface. d. Placing new (Included) intake manifold gaskets on head surface. e. Clocking water manifold ports (Rear of Supercharger system) at 10 o'clock (towards left side of vehicle) position and tighten using a 7/8" Open End Wrench. f. Installing the following vacuum lines and intercooler coolant lines before installation: Air pump vacuum line on smallest vacuum port for SLS750 System Bypass valve runs to black plastic actuator on supercharger. Long 3/8" EVAP line. (Keep coiled on top of supercharger unit) 10" 1/2" brake boost line with crimp style clamp. 7ft. Right side intercooler coolant line with supplied 3/4" worm clamp using a 6.5mm Socket and a 1/4" Ratchet. 8ft Left side intercooler coolant line with supplied 3/4" worm clamp using a 6.5mm Socket and a 1/4" Ratchet. 14
Leave Capper/Plugged Bypass Actuator, 1/4 inch EVAP Solenoid, 3/8 inch Brake Booster, 1/ 2 inch PCV Port Map Sensor (Optional) 1/8 NPT Boost Pressure Gauge Port Intake Air Temp Sensor Intercooler coolant ports g. Installing existing map sensor using 5mm Allen Bit. Socket head allen bolts used for map sensor and PCV in rear Y inlet. h. Clipping new injectors onto new fuel rails. (Be sure to use some lubrication to insert into fuel rails and supercharger, failure to do so can result in damage to O rings) 15
i. With the help of a technician, lift supercharger system and carefully place it into its position. Fitment should be very snug and clean. Be sure to lower the Supercharger slowly as to not damage the gaskets. j. Using the included new stainless socket Allen bolts, insert all ten and tighten snug. Torque bolts in a start pattern to 18-19 Lb. Ft. (25 Nm) k. Grounding air pump wire harness using the existing removed. l. Twisting existing brake booster line towards supercharger unit, and placing included crimp style clamp on 1/2" brake booster hose and slide over existing line. Adjust line and double check no kinks are in line. Crimp clamp at this point. Brake booster line m. Installing new fuel rails and injectors onto supercharger unit buy using 4mm Allen bit and 1/4" drive. Aluminum finish spacers will be used between manifold and fuel rail. n. Running new fuel line crossover behind Y inlet. (45 end must be on right side of vehicle) 16
o. Running Air Pump vacuum line along the fuel rail. p. Replacing existing harness zip ties with included zip ties. Cut excess and dispose. q. Installing existing PCV line in rear section of Y Inlet using a 5mm Allen key. Twisting hose can be necessary for proper seal. New Map Sensor Plug Location in Car Shown Above is the PCV hose correctly positioned for installation. 17
At this point the supercharger system and fuel system should be completely installed. 18
IV. Cradle, Air Pump Delete and 8 Rib Installation 1. Install Cradle assembly by: a. Remove Engine Shock Bracket (SLS Black Series Only) It will be replaced by the Weistec SLS Black Series FEAD Bracket and Engine Shock Bracket b. Removing air pump valves using a T30 bit c. Removing air pump tubes using an E10 bit. d. Removal of the right side tube will require loosening of the power steering pump by removing the two bolts shown below with a T30 bit 19
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Loosen This Bolt e. With the Power Steering Pump loose, remove the bolt holding on the right side tube can be removed to free the tube Note: Removal of the Oil Filter Housing will make removal of the right side air tube easier. 21
f. Using included block off plates and original bolts and an E10 socket, plug the air pump tube ports by first applying High Temp RTV Silicone to the one side of each block off plate and bolting one to each head. 22
g. Bolt the Power Steering pump back on h. Cleaning block surface where existing power steering reservoir mounted. i. Positioning the cradle in the same location as the stage 1/1+ cradle j. Insert two M8x1.25x25mm bolts through the top of the cradle and partially thread them. Do not tighten the bolts yet 23
Insert bolt into this hole. A bolt is not used in the other hole to make servicing the supercharger in the future easier. k. Bolt on Belt Wrap Idler using the M8x1.25x90mm bolts to the front of the cradle. Partially thread them in. Installation of the belt wrap idler is shown in this illustration 24
l. Tighten all four bolts using a 6mm hex bit starting with the top bolts then tighten the front bolts. Apply Red Loctite and torque to 20 ft-lbs m. Removing existing serpentine belt using a 17mm 3/8" deep socket and a 3/8" drive onto belt tensioner. n. Removing factory belt tensioner. 25
2. Install 8 Rib Upgrade by: a. Removing existing serpentine belt using a 17mm 3/8" deep socket and a 3/8" drive onto belt tensioner. 65mm Idler Installed in Previous Steps DO NOT ALTER ALL BILLET 8 RIB IDLERS MUST BE INSTALLED WITH THE LOCKING RING FACING THE RADIATOR Supercharger Pulley Grooved Idler 65mm Idler 54mm Idler Tensioner Idler Alternator Pulley Water Pump Pulley Power Steering Pulley Crank Pulley Not Used, If Your Vehicle Has This Idler Remove It AC Pulley 26
b. Removing Grooved Idler using a T40 bit 27
c. Bolting on 8 Rib Grooved Idler using the provided M8x1.25x40 bolt and M8 Bearing washer with a 6mm hex bit. Apply red Loctite to bolt before Installation and torque to 31.5nm 28
d. Removing 65mm Idler using a T40 bit 29
e. Bolting on 8 Rib Double Bearing Idler using the provided M8x1.25x40 bolt and bearing washer with a 6mm hex bit. Apply red Loctite to bolt before Installation and torque to 31.5nm 30
f. Removing 54mm Idler using an E12 socket. Bearing bushing on the back side of the 54mm Idler will be reused 31
g. Bolting on 8 Rib 54mm Idler using the provided M8x1.25x40 bolt, bearing washer and original bearing bushing with a 6mm hex tool. Apply red Loctite to bolt before Installation and torque to 31.5nm Original Bearing Bushing 32
Original Bearing Bushing 33
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h. Removing 76mm Tensioner Pulley using a T40 bit and removing the factory belt tensioner 35
i. Bolting on Weistec High Rate Tensioner using factory hardware and 8 Rib 76mm Tensioner Pulley using the provided M8x1.25x40 bolt and bearing washer. Apply red Loctite to bolt before Installation and torque to 31.5nm 36
j. Remove Water Pump Pulley using a T30 bit 37
k. Bolting on 8 Rib Water Pump Pulley using the 4 M6x1x12 bolts provided. Apply red Loctite to bolt before Installation and torque to 12.5nm 38
l. Remove alternator pulley by unscrewing the pulley from the alternator shaft 39
m. Bolting on 8 Rib Alternator Pulley using the included nut and washer. Apply red Loctite to threads on alternator shaft before Installation 40
n. Removing AC Pulley using a 1/4 drive 7mm deep socket with the socket wrench set to TIGHTEN/CLOCKWISE. Take care with this step as it is possible to damage the threads/bolt and make the AC Pulley Hub unusable. It helps to wrap the belt around the AC Pulley and then the crank pulley to keep the AC pulley from turning. o. Using pick tools and a small flat head screwdriver, remove the snap ring from the AC Pulley. Take care to not bend or break the snap ring as it will be reused 41
p. Pulling out the AC Pulley Hub. Hub will be reused 42
q. Pulling out Rubber Dampers. Rubber Dampers will be reused. 43
r. Fitting Rubber Dampers into 8 Rib AC Pulley 44
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s. Pressing on AC Pulley Hub 46
t. Locking in Snap Ring using a small flat head screwdriver and pick tools 47
u. Bolting on AC Pulley using a 1/4 drive 7mm deep socket with the socket wrench set to LOOSEN/COUNTER-CLOCKWISE and torque to 10nm. It helps to wrap the belt around the AC Pulley and then the crank pulley to keep the pulley from turning.take care with this step as it is possible to damage the threads/bolt and make the AC Pulley Hub unusable. v. Remove power steering pulley using an appropriate power steering pulley tool 48
Use a wrench to hold this nut Use a wrench or socket to tighten this bolt to pull off the pulley w. Pressing on the 8 Rib Power Steering Pulley using a power steering pulley tool (not included). The pulley must be installed with the grooved center section facing the radiator. Be sure to check alignment of the pulley as you are pressing it on. Press pulley on until the ribs are lined up with the ribs on the AC Pulley, poor alignment will cause belt issues. x. Bolting on supplied bolt and washer. Apply Loctite 609 Retaining Compound to the threads of the bolt before installing and torque to 31.5nm This part of the 8 Rib Power Steering Pulley must face the radiator 49
Install 8 Rib Crank Damper by: This Section Will Require Removal Of The Radiator Fan And Possibly The Assistance Of A Second Technician. Removal Of The Entire Radiator Is Recommended To Provide Extra Working Room. a. Removing the cover of the transmission diagnostic port located on the transmission bell housing, opposite to the starter. b. Using a Mercedes Flywheel lock, lock the flywheel in place (The flywheel may be locked with a pry bar, the second technician must lock the flywheel in place to allow removal of the Crank Pulley Bolt. It is highly recommended that the Mercedes Flywheel Lock be used ) c. Removing Crank Pulley Bolt using a 1 1/16 6 point socket and a large Breaker Bar. If not using the Mercedes Flywheel Lock, Once the Crank Pulley Bolt has been removed, have the second technician release the flywheel 50
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d. Using a pry bar, slowly pry off the Crank Pulley. Work slowly on this step to avoid damage and injury. A mallet may be used to help loosen the Crank Pulley A video of the crank drilling process can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpzpdjojdoq e. Bolting on Crank Drill Tool with included M16x1.5x100 bolt. Be sure that the keyway is lined up properly and that the Crank Drill Tool freely slides all the way on to the crank before screwing in the bolt. Torque bolt to 25nm with a 24mm socket 52
f. Applying grease or oil to the provided 7/32 drill bit and drilling the crank through the two holes in the Crank Drill Tool. Drill into crank until the red marking reaches the Crank Drill Tool as shown below. Perform drilling slowly to avoid over heating or breaking of the drill bit. Stop drilling intermittently to clean shavings off of drill bit and apply more grease/oil. 53
g. Using a Vacuum to vacuum away metal shavings h. Removing Crank Drill tool using a 24mm socket i. Double Checking to make sure the area is free of metal shavings j. Deburr the crank to make sure the crank damper will install properly. Failure to properly deburr the crank after drilling could result in belt drive issues. k. Pressing on 8 Rib Crank Damper. Make sure that the keyway is properly aligned. A mallet can be used to help the damper fit in completely. 54
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l. Using long pliers, insert the two steel dowel pins into the holes, ONE DOWEL PIN IN EACH HOLE, then press them in until they are all the way in the holes. m. Bolting in the included 8 Rib Crank Damper Bolt. Using a 1 1/16 6 point socket torque the bolt to 250nm then turn the bolt an additional 90 degrees (if not using Mercedes Flywheel Lock, With a pry bar, the second technician must lock the flex plate in place to allow tightening of the 8 Rib Crank Damper Bolt. 56
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n. Once the 8 Rib Crank Damper Bolt has been tightened, remove the Mercedes Flywheel Lock Tool (If you are not using the Mercedes Flywheel Lock Tool, have the second technician release the flywheel) and replace the transmission diagnostic port cover. Install 8 Rib Serpentine Belt per Belt Routing Diagram 58
V. Power Steering Reservoir 1. Install included power steering reservoir by: a. Reinstalling dry sump oil tank on the chassis with two mounting bolts using a T- 30 Torx Bit and a 3/8" Ratchet, and two mounting nuts using a 10mm Socket and a 3/8" Ratchet. b. Reinstalling dry sump oil tank return line v-band on right side of vehicle using a T-30 Torx Bit and a 3/8" Ratchet. c. Mounting power steering reservoir onto dry sump oil tank with supplied M8x20mm bolts using a 12mm Socket and a 3/8" Ratchet (Skip this Step for SLS Black Series). d. Installing included 5/8" barb and fasten clamps using crimp style clamp tool on factory hose side (Skip this Step for SLS Black Series). e. Trimming 3/8" power steering return line accordingly and fasten with supplied crimp style clamp using crimp tool (Skip this Step for SLS Black Series). f. Reinstalling upper dry sump oil tank vent lines using a 13mm Socket and a 3/8" Ratchet. WARNING! Improper routing of lines can result in damage or fire. Double check all lines are free and clear of moving parts. Take extra precaution. Fill reservoir with OEM fluid. 59
VI. Intercooler System Installation and Plumbing 1. Install Intercooler system by: a. Mocking up heat exchanger assembly in radiator shroud and mark location to drill for coolant hoses using a 1 1/4" Hole Saw and Drill. Drill on both sides. Double check clearance on backside of shroud when drilling. b. Mounting heat exchanger by centering in the proper location and marking spot to drill four holes using a 5mm drill bit and drill. 60
c. Mounting heat exchanger with supplied black body bolts using a 10mm Socket and a 3/8" Ratchet. 61
d. Removing the two brake lines connecting the brake master cylinder to the ABS module e. Fit the tank in place and bolt it down using existing factory threaded holes mount assembly onto chassis with supplied M8x20mm bolt using a 12mm Socket, a 12" extension, and a 3/8"Ratchet, then reinstall the brake lines 62
f. Mounting the Intercooler pump as shown below 63
g. Cut the S shaped hose into a tight 90 deg hose and use it to connect the tank to the inlet on the intercooler pump as shown below. Use crimp clamps on the hose connections 64
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h. Cut the ends off the large preformed hose and connect it to the outlet of the intercooler pump and route the line as shown 66
i. Using a ¾ barb coupler, route ¾ heater hose from the intercooler pump to the driver side of the heat exchanger and clamping all connections j. Routing ¾ heater hose from passenger side of the heat exchanger to the back of supercharger. Run through the opening near the headlight and along the path of the frame. Use Supplied crimp style clamp and Crimp Tool to fasten. k. Routing ¾ heater hose from back of supercharger to the supplied 90 degree -12 fitting on the upper port of the recovery tank and clamping all connections Double Check all fitments of hoses and assure no bottle neck or kink in hose. This will greatly reduce flow and performance of system. Also double check all hoses are not lying against sharp objects. 67
2. Install Water Pump Wiring by: a. Unclipping plastic wiring harness cover. b. Routing wiring harness inside plastic cover to water pump through the radiator shroud. c. Routing relay side and eyelet side of harness to the battery through the rubber hood grommet. d. Installing red 12 volt wire on positive side of battery, and black ground wire the ground side of battery. e. Installing wire tap onto ECU connector as shown in picture. It is the 5th wire from the end, and is Black. Double check with a test light to assure it goes to 68
constant power when key is on. f. Plugging in male spade connector in wire tap. 69
VII. Bumper and Underbody Installation 1. Install Bumper by: a. Replugging all head light electrical clips. b. Reinstalling bumper cover using an 8mm Socket, 12" Extension, 1/4" Drive and 8mm Ratcheting Wrench. c. Reinstall grill support using a 8mm Socket and 1/4" Drive onto radiator support. d. Lift car on hoist and reinstall underbody using an 8mm Socket and 1/4" Drive and reinserting all push pins. (Ten total) e. Installing bumper support using T-30 Torx Bit and a 3/8" Ratchet from radiator support. (Four bolts total) l. Reinstalling lower chassis support straps under vehicle using a T-45 Torx bit and a 3/8" ratchet. f. Using 8mm Socket and 1/4" Drive to install complete underbody. 70
VIII. Supplementary Installation and Fluid Check 1. Install existing fuel line by: a. Removing line from existing fuel rails with a 17mm Open End Wrench. b. Installing onto new fuel rails using a 17mm Open End Wrench on the fuel rail side, and install onto chassis side using a 17mm Open End Wrench and 14mm Open End Wrench. 2. Install Throttle Bodies by: a. Placing throttle bodies in vice. b. Tapping existing hole with supplied 1/8" NPT Tap. c. Completely clean inside of throttle body with rag and parts cleaner before installing. 71
d. using pipe sealant, place NPT plug into hole. e. Removing protective film from throttle body inlets. f. Installing both SLS supercharger inlets onto supercharger system using a 5mm Rounded Allen Bit. (Do not fasten yet) Be sure to keep gaskets in place with grease or something similar. g. Installing supplied spacers between inlet and lower manifold and slide supplied M6x120mm bolt and washer through hole. 72
h. Fastening inlet bolts (Three on each side) using a 5mm Allen Bit. i. Fastening Spacer bolts using a 5mm Allen Bit and a 3/8" Ratchet. j. Placing included bolts into throttle body with supplied rubber gasket and fastening in star formation on both sides. k. Plugging in both throttle bodies. 3. Install factory air boxes by: a. Sliding entire air box assembly onto throttle body and clipping onto air box standoff ball. b. Fastening clamps on throttle body side using a 6.5mm Socket and a 1/4" Ratchet. c. Plugging in both MAF's. d. Installing both black MAF clips. 4. Install factory dry sump oil tank cover by: a. Removing oil cap. (Use rag for excess oil in case of drip) b. Clipping on cover. (Be sure to have all metal clips on cover side, and not on tank side. It will not properly fasten.) c. Reinstalling oil cap. 5. Install ECU by: a. Inserting ECU into the fixture. b. Clipping Chassis and engine harness and sliding clips to ensure proper plug in. c. Reinstalling both nuts and bolt using a 10mm Socket, a 12" extension, and a 1/4" Ratchet. d. Running water pump harness into passage near ECU harness, and firmly zip tying on to harness. 6. Final assembly: a. Add water into intercooler system and double check no leaks. b. Reinstall battery ground using a 10mm Socket and 1/4" Drive. c. Check all vital fluids. d. Turn Key to on position and add water into intercooler system until system is fully bled and water is visibly circulating. 7. Fill supercharger with oil by: 73
a. Removing plug on top of supercharger with a 5mm Allen bit. b. Filling supercharger unit with supplied oil. c. Starting vehicle after all work has been double checked. d. Installing the windshield wiper cowl by clipping in completely. e. Installing push pins. 74
f. Installing wiper blades at marked location using a 13mm Socket and a 3/8" Ratchet. g. Bleeding brake system and adding OEM brake fluid to replace any fluid that was lost in removing the brake lines. Weistec Engineering recommends adding coolant / anti-freeze to the intercooler system if climate temperatures reach freezing. 75
Thank you from Weistec Engineering! Always enjoy the added horsepower and torque of the M156 supercharger responsibly. Use best judgment when driving, and remember to have fun! NOTES: 76