Installing Rear Brake Pads on a WK Jeep

Transcription

1 Installing Rear Brake Pads on a WK Jeep Step by Step By Chirpz

2 Disclaimer: I do not claim that this procedure is the right way or even the best way to change your rear brake pads. This is what I did after reading through the official shop manual. This procedure worked for me. It will most likely work for you. Working on your brakes is a large and important subject. You may have problems that are beyond the scope of this procedure. If so, if so, keep searching until you find the help that you need. This procedure only deals with the replacement of the rear brake pads, not including the rotors, the calipers, or the parking brake shoes. It assumes that your brakes work properly and that the only need at present is to replace worn pads. That was my case.

3 Loosen your lug nuts. Place a chock under one rear wheel and then jack the other side of the Jeep. Remove the tire. This is a good time to do the lug nut upgrade. Go buy some real lug nuts and have them ready to use.

4 Remove two bolts that hold the caliper to the mounting frame. Inspect them clean them up and set them aside. 13mm socket and a ratchet works fine for this job. Bolts

5 Press down on this retainer spring to allow the caliper to move out at the top. It is OK to bend or damage it. Spring

6 Use a screw driver to pry and wiggle the top of the caliper outwards until you can tip it back and off. Don t let it fall stressing the brake line. Note: The service manual says that you should bleed out a little fluid and pry back the inner brake pad before removing the caliper. I did not try this.

7 Pry the caliper off. It can be pretty tight.

8 Do not let the caliper hang by the brake line. Support it with your hand or some parachord. Pry the outside pad off. It is OK to damage the tension spring since it is part of the old pad. Tension spring

9 Remove the cap from your brake reservoir. If it is very full, remove a little fluid. Place rags all around to catch any fluid that spills. Have a new can of Dot 3 fluid handy. The reason for this is because as you pry the caliper piston back to its fully closed position, the fluid in your reservoir will rise and maybe spill out.

10 Using a large C clamp, a special tool, or a large channel lock plier, squeeze the caliper piston back to its fully closed position. If you have to remove the old pad first, that is OK, but be careful not to ding up the caliper piston. It squeezes very slowly and it takes quite a bit of force.

11 At some point, remove the inner brake pad. It just pops out since it is held in place by a tension spring. I popped and then squeezed. It is probably better to squeeze and then pop. Either way, do not damage the caliper piston!! Tension spring Piston Worn Inner Pad

12 Obtain the best pair of brake pads that you can afford. Whatever is best for you. I chose these because I like to shop local when I can and have had good luck with their products. I do not claim that these are the best pads.

13 Wow! Look at the difference between the old and the new! It seems to be normal to wear our the back brakes before wearing out the front. I have worn out 2 sets of back brakes and I am still running the original front pads at 140,400 miles. I still have about 60% of the front pads left.

14 Pry off the old anti-rattle clips from the top and the bottom of the mounting frame. You should have received a new set with your new pads. Anti-rattle Clip

15 Install the new anti-rattle clips at the top and bottom of the mounting frame. I had a very difficult time doing this. They just did not want to snap into place. I finally managed to get them started by squeezing them on with my large channel locks. This got them started, then I tapped them the rest of the way on using a small rubber mallet. I have one that is only 1 wide at the head. It was perfect for the job. Unfortunately, the clips are easy to damage, so be careful.

16 Snap the new inner pad into the caliper piston. I had to slightly bend the 3 pronged spring that is on the pad in order to get it started into the piston. It should fit very tight. Mount the outer pad onto the caliper making sure that the spring seats properly. The horns on the end of the pads should be toward the heel of the caliper. Horns

17 Horns Heel Retainer spring

18 Inspect the tubes and boots of the mounting bolt pathways. Lubricate with some ceramic grease if necessary. When you mount the caliper to the frame, this pathway tube will get in the way because it slides back and forth. If you force the caliper on with a hammer or pry bar you will damage the tubes Be gentle.

19 Attach the bottom of the caliper first and then tip it into place using as little force as possible. Make sure the bolt Retainer spring pathway tubes are not preventing the caliper from sliding in place. If so, slip them in out of the way. Make sure the top retainer spring snaps into place.

20 Horns of the pads Retainer spring Anti-Rattle Clip Heel of the caliper Outer pad spring clip

21 Replace the two caliper bolts wiggling and jiggling the caliper as necessary to get them started. Tighten them to 72 Nm or 53 Ft. Lb. Refill the brake fluid if necessary. Replace the tire and repeat the procedure for the other side of the Jeep. When you are finished. Check your lug nuts one more time, then depress the brake pedal several times to see if it is nice and firm. Do the test drive. If you were careful, no brake bleeding should be necessary. Put up your tools, grab some coffee and relax.