Multi-tool 2CV / Visa

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Andrew Carroll
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1 Multi-tool 2CV / Visa For the professional 2CV specialist / perfectionist: The heart of the engine, the crankshaft and camshaft often needs a (partial) revision. There are many new 2CV parts, but for these essential parts, there s hardly any alternatives. However, these parts create the difference between a car that just does its job (which is driving), or a smooth running 2CV This tool creates a number of possibilities: from now on you can check the condition of the crankshaft and the camshaft yourself. You also have the possibility to do some essential jobs yourself. VGS developed this tool because they noticed an increasing demand for camshaft timing. But it s a bit crazy to ship crankshafts and camshafts throughout Europe for a job that hardly takes an hour. With this tool, you, as 2CV technician can do a number of important jobs yourself. The tool was developed by VGS. They sell original sized crankshaft and camshaft bearings. If the crankshaft is reground, you can NOT use the original size bearings. 1

1. Replace the crankshaft bearing Required: - Tool 1:

2 1. Replace the crankshaft bearing Required: - Tool 1: extractor - Tool 2: positioning tool - Press - Gas burner - Feeler gauge 0.04, 0.05, 0.10, 0.15 Step 1: Place the crankshaft on the bench. Mount it in an upright position. Mount the positioning tool. Step 2: Put oil on the tool. Mount the tool through both the smallends of the conrods. 2

Step 3: Install the tool and position it in a way that

The tool is designed to demount the crankshaft bearings

Note: The gears from a Visa are different than those from

on the engine type by adjusting the holes and the

Step 4: The positioning tool is now set up.

3 Step 3: Install the tool and position it in a way that the arrow matches the mark on the gear. The tool is designed to demount the crankshaft bearings for both 2CV and Visa. Note: The gears from a Visa are different than those from a 2CV (picture 2CV) The tool needs to be set up depending on the engine type by adjusting the holes and the adjustable pin. Step 4: The positioning tool is now set up. Place the extractor (tool 1) over the bearing. Gently tighten the bolts. You can now demount the gear and the bearing using a press. Place the crankshaft under the press. 3

It is important when mounting on the press that there is no pressure on the bolts of the extractor tool.

Step 5: The gear might be damaged. Please check it carefully. If it is damaged, you will need to replace it.

This bearing has been run in axially. This is a very common problem. The axial clearance of the bearing should be between 0.

4 It is important when mounting on the press that there is no pressure on the bolts of the extractor tool. Don t be surprised: the gear will loosen suddenly. Now you can finish disassembling the gear. Step 5: The gear might be damaged. Please check it carefully. If it is damaged, you will need to replace it. Otherwise it will make noises and a result in a weak gear. Picture left: Example of a bad bearing. This bearing has been run in axially. This is a very common problem. The axial clearance of the bearing should be between 0.07mm and 0.14mm according to Citroën regulations. If the clearance is too small, you risk seizing your engine. If the clearance is too big then it will continue getting bigger. This will cause further engine damage. 4

condition, we advise that you replace the

5 Picture left: Example of a bad bearing: This bearing has rotated in the crankcase. This happens frequently. If the crankshaft is still in good condition, we advise that you replace the bearing. Step 6: Cleaning the crankshaft: the bearings and the gearwheel are now disassembled. You now have the opportunity to thoroughly clean the crankshaft. 5

Clean the crankshaft and blow compressed air or brake cleaner / degreaser through the oil channels.

Keep in mind that a visual check only gives an indication of the condition of the connecting rod bearings.

Step 7: Now check the plate between the main bearing and the gear.

6 Clean the crankshaft and blow compressed air or brake cleaner / degreaser through the oil channels. Only when the crankshaft is completely free of grease (inside and outside) can you check the connecting rods. Keep in mind that a visual check only gives an indication of the condition of the connecting rod bearings. To have 100% certainty of the crankshaft condition it must be completely disassembled. Step 7: Now check the plate between the main bearing and the gear. This plate must be flat, so check for wear and or bending / warping. Step 8: Take a new bearing, the clearance between the bearing and the crankshaft must be between 0.04 and 0.05mm. You can check this simply by inserting a 0.04 or 0.05 feeler gauge between the bearing and the crank tap. 6

7 Step 9: Mount the bearing and the plate (step 7). DO NOT use oil! Everything must be installed dry. Step 10: Gently heat the gear until the colour changes from yellow to blue. 7

Step 11: Mount the positioning tool in the connecting rods.

Step 13: Place the gear on the crankshaft.

Turn the gear until the mark is in line with the tool. You have about 5 to 10 seconds.

8 Step 11: Mount the positioning tool in the connecting rods. Step 12: Carefully grip the heated gear with pliers. Step 13: Place the gear on the crankshaft. Now place the conical part of the tool on the crankshaft. Turn the gear until the mark is in line with the tool. You have about 5 to 10 seconds. After 10 seconds your gear wheel will shrink because the temperature drops. After +/- 30 seconds you can disassemble the tool. The conical part can become somewhat jammed: give it a gentle tap with a hammer to free it. 8

This enables you to check that the clearance of the crankshaft meets the regulations from Citroën.

9 Step 14: Check the axial clearance with a feeler gauge. The gauge 0.05mm should move smoothly. The gauge 0.10 should be tight. The gauge 0.15 shouldn t be able to pass between. This enables you to check that the clearance of the crankshaft meets the regulations from Citroën. You can do this with every crankshaft. This way you can check a crankshaft yourself after a revision. Step 15: Oil the bearing. 9

gloves - Loctite 648 Step 1: Mount the front of the camshaft with the thicker part in the vice (without bending it).

10 2. Replace the camshaft bearing Required: - Tool 3: Lever - Tool 4: Strap - Tool 5: Degree wheel 250mm - Tool 6: Degree wheel 170mm - Tool 7: Sleeve ertelon - Tool 8: Camshaft support - Vice - Needle nose pliers - Press - Gas burner - Welding gloves - Loctite 648 Step 1: Mount the front of the camshaft with the thicker part in the vice (without bending it). Clamp the vice firmly. Mount the lever at the back of the camshaft ( oil pump side). Tighten the strap as indicated on the picture. 10

Make a rotating movement from left to right (+/- 90 stroke) while pulling

Mount the camshaft in the preformed clamp.

11 Make a rotating movement from left to right (+/- 90 stroke) while pulling the lever. This way the nose of the camshaft will loosen gently. Never make complete (360 ) turns! Step 2: Mount the camshaft support (tool 8) in the vice. Mount the camshaft in the preformed clamp. Tighten the bolt gently with a 10mm spanner. bottom. You can rotate the clamp 360 using the bolt at the Step 3: Demount the little springs of the sprocket wheel using needle nose pliers. 11

bottom of the clamp and refasten when the degree wheel is at 0.

12 Step 4: Mount the big degree wheel 250mm (Tool 5). Turn the degree wheel by releasing the M8 bolt (spanner 13) at the bottom of the clamp and refasten when the degree wheel is at 0. The arrow is adjustable in height and depth. Set up the arrow so it is clear that the result is 0. 12

Step 5: Mount the ertelon sleeve (Tool 7) with the small

13 Step 5: Mount the ertelon sleeve (Tool 7) with the small part to the sprocket wheel. Step 6: Place the setup underneath a press and press the camshaft to remove the sprocket wheel. This should go very smoothly. Step 7: Check the camshaft bearing for wear. If necessary, replace the bearing. Now is the time to clean the camshaft properly. 13

14 Step 8: Take the (new) camshaft bearing and mount it with the bevelled edge downwards if the camshaft is mounted in the camshaft support. Please note to not oil the pieces! Everything should be installed dry. Step 9: Slowly heat the sprocket wheel with the degree wheel on the gas burner until the colour turns dark yellow. 14

15 Step 10: Using welding gloves mount the gear in such a way that the degree wheel shows 0. You have 5 to 10 seconds. After cooling you can disassemble the degree wheel. Now reassemble the springs with needle nose pliers. 15

16 Step 11: Now you can remount the nose onto the camshaft. The nose must be in line with the 2nd cam seen from the gear (see photo). Use Loctite 648. If the nose is in line with the 2nd cam, you can press it back onto the camshaft. 16

17 Step 12: Remove the excess Loctite. Oil the bearing and the sprocket wheel. Tip: If possible, use a sprocket wheel with 3 rivets. They are stronger and less noisy when the engine is warm. Sprocket wheels with 1 rivet are most likely to have a tick when the engine is running on idle (for example AM2 engine). 17

3. Timing camshaft crankshaft Rdequired parts : - Old crankcase 602cc - 2nd hand cylinder 602cc - 2nd hand piston 602cc (without piston rings) - 2nd hand cylinder head 602cc (without push rod tubes)

18 3. Timing camshaft crankshaft Rdequired parts : - Old crankcase 602cc - 2nd hand cylinder 602cc - 2nd hand piston 602cc (without piston rings) - 2nd hand cylinder head 602cc (without push rod tubes) - 2nd hand oilpump 602cc - 2nd hand cam follower 602cc - Spring handbrake - M5 bolt - Long M7 bolt - Multitool VGS Step 1: Mount the support(s) for the micrometer with a M5 bolt as indicated on the picture. You should drill and tap this into the crankcase. Mount the oiled cam follower with a spring and a bolt into the crankcase so you can operate the micrometer. 18

19 19

20 Step 2: Mount the camshaft and crankshaft in the right half of an old 2CV crankcase. Check the original Citroën mark. Afterwards mount the left piece. Mount together the 2 halves with at least 2 original M10 bolts (diagonally). Step 3: Mount an old cylinder and a piston without piston rings. 20

21 Step 4: Mount the cylinder head without rocker arms, but with rocker arm shafts. 21

Step 5: Turn the crankshaft in a way that the

Step 6: Mount the smaller degree wheel (170mm)

22 Step 5: Turn the crankshaft in a way that the piston is in the lowest position (BDC). Then mount the blocking pin in the location of the spark plug. Tighten the locking pin by hand. Step 6: Mount the smaller degree wheel (170mm) onto the crankshaft with the M10 bolt (included with multi tool). 22

(It s possible that you might need to demount the left half afterwards, see picture).

23 Step 7: Mount an arrow (iron wire, piece of metal, ) onto the right half of the crankcase at a random location. Make sure the arrow is securely fastened. (It s possible that you might need to demount the left half afterwards, see picture). Step 8: Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the piston touches the blocking pin. Set the degree wheel to 0. Now gently tighten the M10 bolt (step 6). 23

Step 9: Turn the crankshaft counter clockwise until the piston touches the blocking pin again. Read the number of degrees on the grading scale. Write this down.

To release the degree wheel, you might need to tap the back of it a few times. Turn the degree wheel further to the left until it shows 32.5. Now re-tighten the degree wheel.

24 Step 9: Turn the crankshaft counter clockwise until the piston touches the blocking pin again. Read the number of degrees on the grading scale. Write this down. On this photo we read 65. Divide the number of degrees by 2. In this example: 65 2 = 32.5 Loosen the nut from the M10 bolt. To release the degree wheel, you might need to tap the back of it a few times. Turn the degree wheel further to the left until it shows Now re-tighten the degree wheel. Turn the degree wheel so that the crankshaft rotates with it and the piston touches the blocking pin again. The disk should now display 32.5, or the number you calculated. If not, repeat the previous step until left and right are equal. 24

25 Step 10: Demount the blocking pin. Step 11: If the degree wheel shows 0), this is the exact 0-point of the engine. 25

point of the camshaft). Then turn the micrometer to 0.

26 Step 12: Mount the micrometer on the back of the left half of the crankcase. Step 13: Turn the crankshaft until the micrometer is fully depressed (highest point of the camshaft). Then turn the micrometer to 0. Turn the crankshaft left and right one more time to ensure that you are at the highest point of the camshaft. 26

Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the micrometer is at 90.

27 Step 14: Turn the crankshaft counter clockwise until the large arrow of the micrometer reaches 50 or is turned half a turn. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the micrometer is at 90. Now read the number of degrees on the degree wheel (normally this value is between 90 and 105, if not: check all previous steps). In our example this is 98. Note down this value of 98 27

Step 15: Now turn the crankshaft clockwise until the large arrow on the micrometer is at 0 and again at exactly 90. (If you turn too far, first turn backwards enough to eliminate the backlash).

28 Step 15: Now turn the crankshaft clockwise until the large arrow on the micrometer is at 0 and again at exactly 90. (If you turn too far, first turn backwards enough to eliminate the backlash). Now read the number of degrees on the degree wheel. In our example this is 125 Add up the quoted degrees. In our example: = 223 Divide the obtained value by = Every camshaft supplier gives the ideal value (lobe center line) for the optimal functioning of the camshaft. Citroën recommended 108 for a standard 2CV camshaft (Original camshaft only). We calculate with the ideal value = = 1.75 To obtain 108 we have to put the camshaft gear 1.75 earlier. 28

Step 16: Disassemble the left half of the crankcase. Remove the camshaft from the crankcase. Leave the arrow on the crankcase. Leave the crankshaft in the crankcase.

29 Step 16: Disassemble the left half of the crankcase. Remove the camshaft from the crankcase. Leave the arrow on the crankcase. Leave the crankshaft in the crankcase. Do NOT disassemble the cylinder, piston and cylinder head! You only need the camshaft. Look at the manual replace the camshaft bearing. Carry out steps 1 through to 4. Instead of setting the degree wheel to 0, set the degree wheel to Remember that you have to put the 0 to the left of the arrow to advance the timing. The 0 on the right means to retard the timing! In our example, we have to advance the timing by 3.5. We have calculated that we need to set 1.75 for this on the degree wheel. 29

Step 17: Look at the manual replace the camshaft bearing. Execute steps 5 through to 9. Take the spocket wheel with the degree wheel from the gas burner.

30 Step 17: Look at the manual replace the camshaft bearing. Execute steps 5 through to 9. Take the spocket wheel with the degree wheel from the gas burner. Place this in the camshaft support until the degree wheel shows 0. Remember that you only have 5 to 10 seconds! Try to do this as accuratly as possible. We work with a tolerance of 0.25 on the crankshaft. After the sprocket wheel has cooled down, disassemble the degree wheel and remount the springs. camshaft bearing (step 11). Step 18: Fit the camshaft back into the crankcase using the original marks. Remeasure (steps 13 to 15). Your result should now be 108. A slight difference is possible. If you are between and you can be proud of yourself! Reinstall the nose onto the camshaft as described in the manual Replace the 30

31 Example diagram Camshaft: 4. Search for the BDC-of the engine See manual timing camshaft - crankshaft steps 1 to 11. This way you define the exact 0-point of the engine. You need this point, for example, if you want to mount an electronic ignition on a visa-engine. 31

Next, at the micrometer you have to set both the small and the big arrow to 0. Turn the crankshaft until the micrometer indicates the maximum value.

32 5. Check / measure valve lift See manual Timing camshaft-crankshaft steps 12 to 13. The difference with the Timing camshaft-crankshaft is that you first have to find the lowest point of the camshaft. Next, at the micrometer you have to set both the small and the big arrow to 0. Turn the crankshaft until the micrometer indicates the maximum value. You can use this for all 4 cams. This way you have perfect control over the condition of your camshaft. best to check this cam first. An original 2CV6 camshaft has a 6.15mm lift. The cam closest to the gear is usually the most worn out. It is 32

33 Check your supplier's datasheet and compare (see example) 33

ENGINE CONTENTS ENGINE REMOVAL AND REINSTALLATION 3-1 ENGINE REMOVAL 3-1 ENGINE REINSTALLATION 3-5 ENGINE DISASSEMBLY 3-7 STARTER MOTER 3-7

ENGINE CONTENTS ENGINE REMOVAL AND REINSTALLATION 3- ENGINE REMOVAL 3- ENGINE REINSTALLATION 3-5 ENGINE DISASSEMBLY 3-7 3 STARTER MOTER 3-7 CYLINDER HEAD COVER 3-8 PISTON 3- MAGNETO COVER 3-3 MAGNETO ROTOR