7 Fifteen minute evaluation

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Ezra Benson
5 years ago
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1 Investment potential There is a lot of investment potential in a Kawasaki Z1. The most desirable model is the 1972 Z1 (the first 4500 produced), which will always keep its value, or even increase in value. The other models are very popular and desired, but the 1976 Z900 (KZ900) was produced in greater numbers and has less appeal, therefore is the most affordable, but values are still on the increase. Foibles Kawasaki Z1s are not the best handling bikes that s part of motorcycling folklore. However, most riders don t push their bikes to the limit, and, ridden sensibly, great enjoyment can be had from a Z1. Plus points A Z1 is one of the most stylish motorcycles ever produced, with stunning looks, fantastic exhaust layout, 903cc four-cylinder double overhead cam engine and 130mph performance. In 1972 it was amazing, and even today, it can hold its own with modern machinery for looks and presence. Minus points Like any motorcycle of its era, the Z1 needs looking after, but this can be part of the attraction. The early models are expensive to buy, especially if you want a weekend rider. Alternatives Japanese bikes from the same era were the Kawasaki H2, the legendary Widowmaker ; a 750cc two-stroke triple Kawasaki Z650 (KZ650), produced as the Z1s 650cc little brother; the Honda CB750, a 750cc four-cylinder sports bike; the Suzuki GT750, a three-cylinder two-stroke grand tourer; and Yamaha with the RD350/RD400 series of two-stroke twins. Today, all of these bikes are desired and have a strong worldwide following. Nice 1973 Z1. 6

The Z1 is an iconic bike, and the specification only differed slightly between the Z1, Z1A and Z1B models. The Z900 (KZ900) model had greater differences and is seen as a lesser value model.

2 7 Fifteen minute evaluation walk away or stay? Spotting a fake However good the condition of the bike, however well it s been restored, there s not much point going any further if it s pretending to be something it isn t. The Z1 is an iconic bike, and the specification only differed slightly between the Z1, Z1A and Z1B models. The Z900 (KZ900) model had greater differences and is seen as a lesser value model. For the unscrupulous, it is easy to fit Z1 parts to a Z900 (KZ900) and hope no-one spots the differences. The later 1977 Z900LTD and the 1977 Z1000 A1/A2 (KZ1000 A1/A2) parts also fit the Z1 range. The truth lies in the engine number, stamped on a raised plinth on the upper right-hand side crankcase, just below the number four-cylinder carburettor. All the Z1, Z1A, Z1B Z900 (KZ900) model range have engine numbers beginning with Z1E. Later Z1000 (KZ1000) engine numbers begin with KZT00AE. Now look at the frame number, located on the lefthand side of the headstock of the frame. For the Z1, Z1A, Z1B and Z900 (KZ900) models, this begins with Z1F. Later Z900LTD models begin with KZ900B, and the Z1000 (KZ1000) begin with KZT00A. Kawasaki did not produce the Z1 range with matching frame and engine numbers. However, a good indicator of authenticity for a Z1, Z1A and Z1B is frame and engine numbers within 500 numbers apart. I have personally seen a matching Z1, and a one-digit-apart Z1, so close numbers do exist. For the Z900 (KZ900) model, the numbers can be thousands apart and follow no apparent pattern. If the numbers on a Z1, Z1A or Z1B are further apart or missing completely, then this usually means the bike has had a replacement engine fitted at some point. There may have been a good reason for this, but not having near-to-matching numbers will reduce the bike s value. Beware of Z900 (KZ900) models dressed up as a Z1. Check the owner s club for originality. Finding vastly disparate numbers doesn t necessarily mean it s time to walk away. The bike itself may still be an honest machine with plenty to offer you just need to make it clear to the seller that you know it isn t original and start negotiating on price. 16 Engine number is located on the right-hand side of the crankcase. This number is from a 1976 Z900 model. Frame number is located on the frame headstock.

Generally speaking, faded original paintwork isn t necessarily a bad thing, and, in fact, some owners prefer this unrestored look. Original bikes do have an appeal.

3 The main problem with original Candy paintwork is fading, due to intense sunlight. Here are two in original colour. resprays, painted in metallic paint and not the more expensive Candy paintwork, as supplied from the factory. Light staining might polish out, but could also require a respray. Generally speaking, faded original paintwork isn t necessarily a bad thing, and, in fact, some owners prefer this unrestored look. Original bikes do have an appeal. All Z1s had a Candy tone paint colour scheme, varying from a two-tone for the Z1 and Z1A models, to a single colour and coloured stripes for the Z1B and Z900 (KZ900) models. Paint availability is not Professional Candy paintwork transforms a Z1. a problem and colour matching is achievable with modern paints. Kawasaki colours for the models were as follows: 1972/1973 Z1 Candy Brown and Orange, Candy Green and Yellow Z1A Candy Brown and Orange, Candy Green and Yellow Z1B Candy Super Red, Candy Super Blue Z900 (KZ900) Diamond Dark Green, Diamond Brown. Chrome Chrome plating is another big visual plus on the Z1, used on the four exhaust silencers, mudguards, handlebars, pillion grabrail, wheels, headlamp rim, and other parts. The quality of Kawasaki s original plating is generally pretty good, though we are talking 40 years on now, so don t expect all chrome to be pristine. Whichever Z1 model you re looking at, check the chrome for rust, pitting, and general brightness. Minor blemishes can be polished away, but otherwise you re looking at a replating bill. If the exhaust silencers have rotted, it is better to budget for a new replica set less hassle than getting old ones replated, but expensive in today s market. 21

Z1, Z1A and Z1B single disc/caliper standard fitment. Z1, Z1A and Z1B twin disc/caliper optional fitment.

On the test ride, check that both brakes work efficiently, and don t feel spongy or have excessive travel.

Poorly lubricated, badly adjusted cables are an indication of general neglect.

4 Z1, Z1A and Z1B single disc/caliper standard fitment. Z1, Z1A and Z1B twin disc/caliper optional fitment. The UK specification Z900 was fitted with a twin front disc setup as standard. Modern brake pad and brake shoe materials, and braided hoses, improve braking substantially. On the test ride, check that both brakes work efficiently, and don t feel spongy or have excessive travel. Cables All cables throttle, speedometer, rev counter, and clutch should work smoothly without stiffness, and clock needles should move without jerking. Poorly lubricated, badly adjusted cables are an indication of general neglect. Note: oil leaks are common from the rev counter drive oil seal this can be changed in a simple operation. Switchgear The Z1 switchgear changed during the production run. The Z1 and the 1974 Z1A had the same layout: left-hand indicator switch, high and low beam switch, and horn button; right-hand electric start button, light switch, and ignition kill switch. Both sides had white letters. Z1, Z1A left-hand switches simple but effective. 43

battery top-up device, such as the Optimate, which will keep it fully charged.

5 Use the clutch lever regularly to avoid a seized cable. Battery/electrics Either remove the battery and give it a top-up charge every couple of weeks, or connect it up to a battery top-up device, such as the Optimate, which will keep it fully charged. Damp conditions will allow fuses and earth connections to corrode, storing up electrical troubles for the spring. Eventually, wiring insulation will harden and fail. If stored, put the bike on its centre stand to protect the tyres. 56

2 Cost considerations

2 Cost considerations affordable, or a money pit? Compared to most other motorcycles, all the Big Twin Moto Guzzis are relatively cheap to run and maintain. As they don t produce much power they are also