1996+ Yamaha G16 / G22 Yamaha G29/YDRA Drive

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1 Vegas Carts & Performance 2995 Coleman St North Las Vegas, NV VegasCarts.com 625cc Big Block Installation Instructions Yamaha G16 / G22 Yamaha G29/YDRA Drive Revised 8/6/2018 1

2 Tools Needed for Installation: (2) 14mm or 9/16 Wrenches (Open-End or Closed) Screwdriver Set Drill with various drill bits including 13/64 Saw capable of cutting steel (Sawzall, Die Grinder, hacksaw, etc) Socket & Ratchet Set High Temp Loc-tite or nickel equivalent Anti-Seize Lubricant Ft-Lb Torque Wrench Measuring Tape NOTICE: Pictures are taken from multiple installs where there may be minor differences from the actual kit you received. There may be some photos showing a different air box or air filter or slightly different mounting hardware. This will not affect your kits installation or performance in any way! LIFTED CART ADVISORY: Although lifted carts are common, we develop all of our kits on un-lifted and un-modified carts. There are dozens of lift kit manufacturers and it would be impossible to develop a universal kit that fits all of them. We will do our best to assist with any clearance issues, however, we cannot and will not guarantee fitment for lifted carts. 2

3 Yamaha G16-G22 Kit Parts List (Some items may be pre-installed on engine): A. G16-G29 Billet Flat Mount a. 4pc - ⅜ x 16tpi x 4.5 Carriage Bolts b. 4pc - ⅜ x 16tpi Lock Nuts c. 4pc - Washer B. 4pc - 3-⅜ x 1.5 Billet Standoffs C. G16/G22 Exhaust a. 2pc - M10 x 1.25 x 25mm Hex Bolts D. Box Muffler a. 2pc - Exhaust Gaskets b. 2pc - Long M8 Gold Muffler Bolts c. 4pc - M8 Crimped Lock Nut E. 780R Clutch a. 1pc - ⅜ x 24tpi x 3 Clutch Bolt b. 1pc - Aluminum Step Washer c. 1pc - 4 Straight Keyway 3/16 x ¼ F. 47 Drive Belt G. Key Switch H. Fuel Filter I. 6ft Fuel Line J. Throttle Bracket a. 2pc - 5/16 x 1.25 Carriage Bolts b. 2pc - 5/16 Washer c. 2pc - 5/16 Crimped Lock Nut K. (2) Dogbones a. 4pc - ⅜ x 16tpi x 2 Hex Bolts b. 4pc - ⅜ Washer 3

4 Yamaha G22 & G29/YDRA Drive Kit Parts List: (Some items may be already installed on engine): A. G16-G29 Billet Flat Mount a. 4pc - ⅜ x 16tpi x 4.5 Carriage Bolts b. 4pc - ⅜ x 16tpi Lock Nuts c. 4pc - Washer B. G22/G29 Hole Relocation Plates (set) a. 4pc - ⅜ x 16tpi x 1 Carriage Bolts b. 4pc - ⅜ x 16tpi Lock Nuts c. 4pc - Washer Installed on Engine: 1. Billet Air Filter Adapter mm Long Carb Studs 3. Intake Gasket C. 4pc - 3-⅜ x 1.5 Billet Standoffs D. G16/G22 Exhaust a. 2pc - M10 x 1.25 x 25mm Hex Bolts E. Box Muffler a. 2pc - Exhaust Gaskets b. 2pc - Long M8 Gold Muffler Bolts c. 4pc - M8 Crimped Lock Nut F. 780R Clutch a. 1pc - ⅜ x 24tpi x 3 Clutch Bolt b. 1pc - Aluminum Step Washer c. 1pc - 4 Straight Keyway 3/16 x ¼ G. Extended Drive Belt H. Key Switch I. Fuel Filter J. Norton Air Filter K. 2pc - ⅜ Aluminum Spacers L. 6ft Fuel Line M. Throttle Bracket a. 2pc - 5/16 x 1.25 Carriage Bolts b. 2pc - 5/16 Washer c. 2pc - 5/16 Crimped Lock Nut N. (2) Dogbones a. 4pc - ⅜ x 16tpi x 2 Hex Bolts b. 4pc - ⅜ Washer 4

5 It is highly recommended to take pictures of your engine bay prior to removing the OEM engine and its components. This will save time if you ever need to revert back to the stock setup. If you currently have a Torque Spring or any spring with extra tension above the OEM specs, installed in your rear (Secondary) drive clutch, you should remove and replace with the factory spring before installing this kit. The extra tension will delay shift out and limit the top speed of your cart. In some cases, it can be as much as 10mph Please read through the entire instructions prior to starting on your installation. There are many ways to install our kit, depending on the current state of your cart, you may be able to skip some steps or move some around. NEVER START YOUR ENGINE WITHOUT THE DRIVE BELT INSTALLED! The outer clutch sheave will slam into the inner sheave and damage your clutch. If you want to test your engine or run it without a belt, you must first remove the primary drive clutch. 5

6 Remove all OEM motor mounts and old engine brackets. Remove all governor linkage and set the throttle cable that comes from the pedal box aside. Leave shift and brake cables attached and push aside. (This instruction guide does NOT cover the use of your transaxle internal speed governor as most will want to completely bypass it. You may be able to retain it on some carts!) What engine cradle style do you have? There are 2 styles of engine cradles on Yamaha carts that this instruction guide covers. The below pictures illustrate both styles, the first picture marked " A " is typically found in the G16 through G22. The second picture marked " B " is typically found in the G22 and G29 "Drive" carts. If your engine cradle looks like picture " A " below, drill out the (4) original mounting holes to 3/8 (shown with arrows on picture " A ") 6

7 If your engine cradle looks like picture " B " below, you will need to install the 2 relocation brackets(included in the kit) to the bottom of your engine cradle, using the provided 3/8" hardware. These brackets provide 4 additional bolt holes that are positioned identical to the engine cradle in picture " A ". 7

8 G22-G29 Mounting Hole Relocation Brackets NOTE: On newer kits, these brackets will be made from machined aluminum! The ⅜ x 1 Carriage bolts install from the bottom up as shown. 8

9 There are (4) 3.25" x 1.5" aluminum spacers (included with your kit) that are used to raise the engine up far enough to clear the axle. Align these spacers with the 4 mounting holes on your engine cradle. 9

10 Place the top mounting plate on the 4 aluminum spacers and line the adjustment slots to the holes in the spacers. Insert the provided ⅜ x 4.5 carriage bolts down through the spacers and install the locknuts. Leave the nuts loose enough to allow the plate to slide side to side. 10

11 The engine is fastened to the plate using 2 specialized hold downs(front & rear), which we have nicknamed Dogbones (April 2018). These are a huge improvement over the carriage bolts of years past. These parts allow the installer to loosen the engine and adjust the belt tension...one handed. See pictures below. (If you have an older kit without these, they are cheap and turn what used to be a 10 minute job into a 30 second job. 11

12 Place the engine on top of the motor plate with the OHV cover facing the rear of the cart. Install the Dogbones onto the engine with hardware threading in from the bottom, just as the pictures on the previous page illustrate. 12

13 The muffler needs to be installed onto the exhaust header pipe prior to being bolted to the engine. Ensure you install (1) of the provided gaskets in-between the muffler and exhaust header flange. The long M8 bolts go through the muffler, the gasket, and then the flange with the bolt heads on the muffler side. Don't forget to use the lock-washers and tighten them considerably or your muffler WILL fall off! 13

14 The exhaust/muffler gets bolted to the engine using the existing studs. Ensure there is a gasket between the cylinder head and exhaust flange. Barely snug these bolts for now... After you have aligned everything, make sure to tighten the nuts & lock washer considerably or you WILL have an exhaust leak. (Exhaust leaks cause popping when releasing the throttle.) The support bracket is mounted to the side cover of the engine (shown below) using (2) M10 Bolts. Barely snug these bolts as you may want to adjust the exhaust up/down for more belt or motor mount clearance. 14

15 Starting August 2018, we will be transitioning away from the 780 Primary Drive Clutches and replacing them with a much heavier duty clutch made by CVTECH in Canada. CVTECH has a reputation for producing some of the best snowmobile and atv clutches on the market. This clutch is called the Series 06 and has a near perfect reliability record, much thicker castings than a 780 and is of an overall better design. We consider it to be a major improvement and a drastic increase to the quality of our product offering. Installation is no different than what you see in the instructions, other than different hardware. Revised Hardware: -2-⅛ x 3/16 x ¼ Drive Key -4 x ⅜ -24 Hex Bolt -⅜ Washer 15

16 Your kit came with a 4 x 1/4" x 3/16" key. It should be a relatively tight fit into the key slot on the engines crankshaft. We want it to be tight so the slot does not wear over time. Due to the tolerance between the slot and the key, you may have to gently tap the key into the slot with a hammer or dead-blow. 16

17 If you cannot get the key to fit, you can lightly sand or file one side of the key until it fits. Remember, we DO NOT want a loose fitting key! Apply a light coat of Anti-Seize lubricant onto the crankshaft to make future removal of the clutch easier. Slide your clutch onto the output shaft and secure the clutch using the provided aluminum step washer and the 3/8-24 bolt. (Older kits use a lock washer, 2 large washers, and a cup washer.) 17

18 Apply blue loc-tite to the 3/8-24 x 3 clutch bolt threads and Torque to 40 ft-lbs. 18

19 The belt slides over the primary clutch and then over the secondary. Rotate the secondary while pushing on the belt and it will pop on. 19

20 The centers of both clutches need to be lined up by moving the engine mount assembly side to side. There is no scientific way to do this other than with your eyes and possibly a straight edge. Once the drive belt is straight on both clutches, tighten all (4) engine bolts from engine mount to cradle. This locks the engine from moving side to side. Adjust your belt tension by sliding the engine towards the front of the golf cart. You will want between 1"-1.5" of deflection when pressing on the top of the belt. Belt tension will need to be fine tuned after the install, so its not critical at this point. Double check your belt is aligned and tighten the engine bolts. 20

21 When setting up your fuel system, make sure the yellow vent screen on the fuel pump is pointed upwards. Use the clear fuel line provided to plumb the fuel system as shown below. The fuel filter goes in between the clear fuel line and the black line on the engine (which goes to the carb). The fuel filter has arrows on it which show you the correct direction of fuel flow. Green Arrow represents the hose to the fuel pump from the gas tank. Blue arrow represents the hose from the fuel pump to the carburetor. Yellow Arrow represents the hose from the fuel pump to the pulse fitting at the rear of the engine, just above the starter. (NOTE: It is Important the all lines fit tightly to their respective fittings, a loose vacuum line from the pulse fitting on the engine can cause all sorts of fuel delivery gremlins.) 21

22 Make sure you've disconnected all governor linkage going to and from the rear axle. You want to run the throttle cable that comes out of your throttle box directly to the bracket which bolts to the top of your engine(pictured). The 5/16 carriage bolts install from under the 2 top tabs on the engine. Slide the cable through either of the 2 slots (Try both and decide which you prefer) and feed the threaded rod end through the hole. Fasten the jam nut onto the threaded rod. 22

23 Drill out the existing pilot hole in the governor arm to 13/64, to accommodate the factory Yamaha cable pin. The factory cable end can now be fastened to the governor arm using your factory pin and cotter. Ensure that the throttle is opening fully when the gas pedal is depressed and the cable is not stretching or over-extended. This can easily be adjusted by moving the jam nuts. 23

24 24 Your completed installation should look something like the pictures below:

25 ****You will now need to refer to the 625cc wiring diagram to get the Electrical portion of this install completed.**** Once you have completed all of the electrical wiring and the key switch works as intended. It s time for initial startup, idle speed tuning and belt tension tuning. DON T FORGET TO FILL THE ENGINE WITH OIL... IT TAKES QUARTS OF 10W30 ENGINE OIL. If your engine is sitting level, you can rely on the dipstick to tell you when it s full. The engine can be filled from the valve cover using a flexible funnel. The Black plastic screw on the top of your carburetor is your idle speed screw (pictured). Turning the screw Counter-Clockwise will lower idle speed, Clockwise will increase idle speed! 25

26 (Jack the rear of your cart up off the ground as a safety precaution before proceeding!) A tachometer is HIGHLY recommended for fine-tuning and to keep an eye on your engine when driving. We sell a large analog tachometer for $49.99 on our website, you can also use a cheaper digital induction tachometer which can be found online for $15. First startup may take some time as the fuel pump needs to prime and fill the carburetor with fuel before the engine will fire. Turn the engine over and pulse the gas pedal until it fires. You can use the yellow manual choke if you are in very cold weather. Once you get the engine to idle, adjust the idle speed screw so your tachometer reads 2000rpm. Let the engine idle at 2000rpm for 10 minutes. During this time, pay close attention to the engine and look for oil and fuel leaks, loose bolts, exhaust leaks, etc. After 10 minutes, the engine will be at full operating temperature. At this point, you can re-adjust your idle speed screw down until the engine idles at around 1100rpm. Any lower then 1100 and the engine will die on hard stops, higher than 1300 and you will have difficulty shifting with the engine running. Turn the engine off and verify the key switch is working to kill the engine. If you are confident that everything is in good running order and the cart is safe to drive, put it back on the ground, start it back up and take it around the block! Your drive belt tension will need to be adjusted after your belt is broken-in. The belt will stretch from heat and increase in length within an hour of driving. 26

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