BMW 528i E39 Trunk Harness Repair

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1 My problems started when I got a false alarm about the trunk lid being open. It went away the next day, but then I noticed the trunk light was out. I checked the bulb and it was fine. After reading the threads in the forum, I suspected the trunk harness and started messing around with it. Sure enough, the false alarm for the "Trunk Lid Open" returned. Then after wiggling the harness again, the remote door locks stopped working from the key (but worked fine with the manual lock in the driver's door). That's when I got serious and dug into the problem, and the root cause is very clear. When the trunk lid is closed, there is a sharp, nearly 180 degree hairpin kink in the harness (see Figure 1). Figure 1. Sharp kink in harness when trunk lid is closed

2 After pulling back the ribbed rubber boot, it was pretty clear what had happened. 12 years of opening and shutting that lid several times a day is going to have an effect on the wiring with that sharp of a kink (see Figure 2). Figure 2. Frayed and broken wires in trunk harness Note that there is already a butt splice crimp connector on one of the wires. 3 years ago, my trunk lid latch stopped working and my indie mechanic claimed he replaced the "Trunk Catch" for $117. It appears that all he really did was splice these wires, which is a conversation I'm going to have to have with him shortly. Anyway, on to the repairs.

3 What we need to do here is to replace all 13 of the wires in the section that suffers from the sharp bend, because even if they aren't showing visible damage, they are probably all damaged to some extent inside the insulation. All of these wires appear to be 22 gauge stranded (the red wires with the yellow stripe may be 20 gauge, though). I chose to beef things up a bit by using 18 gauge stranded for the splices. So I cut 13 pieces and pre-tinned them (see Figure 3). Figure 3. Pre-cut and tinned 18 gauge stranded copper wire splices

4 Next, cut each wire of the harness 1-2 inches above the damaged section at different points. That s important because if all the splices are located at the same point it will create a lump in the harness that will place added stress on the cables and make the ribbed rubber boot look like a snake that just swallowed a mouse. So spread them out. (Note: It's really helpful to use a clamp to keep the rubber boot from swallowing up your wires, especially after you cut them! I made that mistake and it cost me an hour fishing the wires back out again.) Then pre-tin those wires, too (see Figure 4): Figure 4. Stagger-cut and tinned harness wires, trunk lid end

5 Next, solder the 13 splices onto the harness (see Figure 5). Figure 5. Splices soldered onto harness wires, trunk lid end

6 Then use heat shrink tubing to insulate the connections. I like heat shrink better than electrical tape because it stands up to high temperatures better, doesn't leave a sticky residue if you have to do another repair, and it doesn't slide around like electrical tape can. Butt splices (like the one my mechanic used) are a big no-no in an application like this as the sharp edges of the plastic splice will accelerate the wear on adjacent wires. With heat shrink tubing sealing the connections it should look like Figure 6. Figure 6. Splices with heat shrink tubing on harness wires, trunk lid end

7 Now you need to do the other half of the harness. You need to cut off the damaged sections of each wire. This is important remove exactly the same length from each wire. If your splices are all the same length and you remove the same length of each damaged wire from the harness, then you won t end up with some wires shorter or longer in the repaired harness, which would be bad as the shorter wires may take on greater stress. I removed 2" from each of the original wires around the section that suffered the crimp damage. With the 4" splices, the cable ends up being 2" longer, but that's OK. The excess can be stuffed easily back into the trunk lid. After soldering and sealing with the heat shrink tubing, the repaired harness should appear as in Figure 7. Figure 6. Splices with heat shrink tubing on harness wires, both ends

8 Almost done. Before closing, check all your fuses in the trunk to make sure none are blown and test everything (both license plate lights, the trunk light, trunk lid latch mechanism, remote key lock/unlock, etc). Once you ve verified that everything is working again, wrap it with electrical tape to give the harness a little more structural integrity and keep it all nice and tight (see Figure 8). Figure 8. Repaired harness Slide the rubber boot back over the repaired harness and re-attach it to the trunk lid, and voila! You're done.

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