CanuckMark Altimoderator

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1 Navigation Tuning Emotion Forums > BMW > DIY/Tech Tips Water Pump Replacement DIY User Name Password User Name Remember Me? Log in Register FA Members List Calendar Today's Posts Search Thread Navigation Page 1 of > Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes , 08:17 PM #1 CanuckMark Altimoderator Water Pump Replacement DIY OK, this weekend I tackled the water pump in the 328i. I've already done the 323i so I thought I'd tackle the other car. It was a little more "challenging" but still fairly easy to do. You will need some "special tooling" though! Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Happyland ON Posts: 3,708 TOOLS: T25 screwdriver (or driver bit w handle), side cutters or pliers, phillips head screwdriver, Torx50 ratchet bit on a long breaker bar, 10mm ratchet and/or open end wrench, if car is equipped with mechanical fan you will need a 32mm open end wrench and "special tool".

First jack the front end up and remove the under pan - if the rad draincock is accessible without doing this, skip the step. The car does not need to stay in the air - I put it back down.

2 First jack the front end up and remove the under pan - if the rad draincock is accessible without doing this, skip the step. The car does not need to stay in the air - I put it back down. Remove the rad cap and bleed screw up top, then drain the rad (the blue draincock on the bottom driver's side corner). NO MECHANICAL FAN: If you see the end of the water pump like in the pic above (red arrow), you do not have a mechanical fan. Simply remove the back-mounted electric fan by removing a T25 screw on the passenger side top inner corner, and a two piece push pin on the driver side top inner corner (pull the center pin out, then the whole push pin). Disconnect the big power connector and pull the fan out (in is retained with clips on the bottom).

MECHANICAL FAN: If you can't see that metal threaded end because there's a fan attached to it, guess what it's time to have some fun! You will need to remove that mechanical fan.

3 MECHANICAL FAN: If you can't see that metal threaded end because there's a fan attached to it, guess what it's time to have some fun! You will need to remove that mechanical fan. A 32mm open end wrench is needed, plus a special tool to hold the fan pulley while you wrench the fan off Nissan Altima Coupe Toyota Matrix XR Pontiac Fiero IndyCar Edition My Old BMW Website Last edited by CanuckMark : at 09:09 PM , 08:26 PM #2 CanuckMark Altimoderator Join Date: Jun 2004

When the mech fan is free of the pump, you will pull it straight up and out along with

4 Location: Happyland ON Posts: 3,708 Here is another view of the fan in place and the locations of the screw (on the right) and the push pin (left). When the mech fan is free of the pump, you will pull it straight up and out along with the radmounted shroud. Mmmm, the "special tool". BMW charges your first born for this handy item, so f$%^ 'em, I made one!

This ex-table saw wrench has been lovingly drilled and ground to fit over two of the mounting screws on the pulley, so when you wrench the fan off it will hold the pulley in place instead of letting

5 This ex-table saw wrench has been lovingly drilled and ground to fit over two of the mounting screws on the pulley, so when you wrench the fan off it will hold the pulley in place instead of letting it spin and slip under the belt. I would highly recommend using something like this as the pulley is fragile plastic and easily breakable...the tool can be borrowed from me for a nominal fee (I drink MGD :-). The tool in action - the red rusty bit is the 32mm fan nut. Place the tool over the two closer-together bolts, then start wrenching the nut until the tool comes to rest on the belt on the right side of crank pulley. Then you should have all the torque you need to pop the fan nut free and spin the fan off. NOTE: THE FAN IS REVERSE THREAD, so you will be turning the wrench TO THE RIGHT or clockwise when looking at the front of the motor. Check the threads on your new pump to be sure.

This is a better view of the tool in action after the fan has been removed. This simply prevents the pulley from turning. 2008 Nissan Altima Coupe... 2009 Toyota Matrix XR.

6 This is a better view of the tool in action after the fan has been removed. This simply prevents the pulley from turning Nissan Altima Coupe Toyota Matrix XR Pontiac Fiero IndyCar Edition My Old BMW Website Last edited by CanuckMark : at 09:30 AM , 08:30 PM #3 CanuckMark Altimoderator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Happyland

Have a pan ready as you will loose coolant from the thermostat side. STOP!

7 ON Posts: 3,708 You may want to remove the top rad hose for more clearance - I did on the mech fan installation. The clips pull up and the hose pops off - check the o-rings inside afterwards to make sure they are undamaged. Have a pan ready as you will loose coolant from the thermostat side. STOP! Before removing the belts, draw a diagram on the routing. Feel free to use my high tech CAD drawn rendering, but you may want to do your own to be sure.

$\ This in the bottom$

8 Remove the caps on the idler pulleys - this is the top one. \ This in the bottom one.

2008 Nissan Altima Coupe... 2009 Toyota Matrix XR... 1984 Pontiac Fiero IndyCar Edition My Old BMW Website www.tuningemotion.com Last edited by CanuckMark : 10-23-2005 at 09:32 AM.

9 2008 Nissan Altima Coupe Toyota Matrix XR Pontiac Fiero IndyCar Edition My Old BMW Website Last edited by CanuckMark : at 09:32 AM , 08:34 PM #4 CanuckMark Altimoderator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Happyland ON Posts: 3,708 The top idler swings to the left to release the tension, so insert the T50 bit in there and crank it clockwise.

10 The bottom one swings down, so crank it clockwise as well. Now remove the pulley (4 M6 bolts, 10mm ratchet). Now you will see this - the pump. Remove the 4 NUTS (not the bolts behind it).

2008 Nissan Altima Coupe... 2009 Toyota Matrix XR... 1984 Pontiac Fiero IndyCar Edition My Old BMW Website www.tuningemotion.

11 2008 Nissan Altima Coupe Toyota Matrix XR Pontiac Fiero IndyCar Edition My Old BMW Website , 08:40 PM #5 CanuckMark Altimoderator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Happyland ON Posts: 3,708 PUMP REMOVAL: The easiest way to do this is to thread 2 M6 x 25mm or so bolts into the two holes set inbetween the mount studs. thread these by hand until they contact the block behind the pump, then ratchet each in a few turns at time to slowly and evenly back the pump off of the block.

Even if you drain the block ahead of time, some will still spill so there's

12 Here you can see it separating from the block. BTW, have a pan underneath the pump as a bunch of fluid will spill out. Even if you drain the block ahead of time, some will still spill so there's no point. New pump vs old pump. The old one had significant play and tunred very freely, which leads me to

13 believe it would have failed in the near future. The new one had more resistance in the rotation (aka new). Now check this out: The small circular fitting on the bottom face of the pump is a weeping hole, so that if any coolant gets past the inner seal it will weep out here signalling a problem. Check out the deposits on the old pump - she was gonna blow!! 2008 Nissan Altima Coupe Toyota Matrix XR Pontiac Fiero IndyCar Edition My Old BMW Website , 08:49 PM #6 CanuckMark Altimoderator

To get the pump on, first lube the o-ring with a bit of coolant then press it into the opening with

14 Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Happyland ON Posts: 3,708 View of the pump cavity in the block. The pump and pulley installation is straightforward. To get the pump on, first lube the o-ring with a bit of coolant then press it into the opening with the weep hole to the bottom. If it doesn't want to go on easy, push it on then thread the 4 nuts on the studs. Tighten the nuts down evenly to pull the pump

onto the block, making sure the o-ring goes in too and doesn't bind up on the edge. I did not use a torque wrench - it doesn't need much force, I did it by feel with a small 3/8 ratchet.

15 onto the block, making sure the o-ring goes in too and doesn't bind up on the edge. I did not use a torque wrench - it doesn't need much force, I did it by feel with a small 3/8 ratchet. Same for the pulley bolts - do not overtighten! Install the drain plug in the bottom. Turn your car to ignition (do not start), then put the heater temp on high and the fan on full blast (opens the core valves). Then SLOWLY refill. As you fill, you will hear the system burping and gurgling. If you fill slowly enough you will evac all the air in the system. When you get to the top, the bleeder hole (red arrow) will overflow. Contiue to slowly refill until no bubbles come out. Close the bleeder and the cap up. (Note I am using Prestone long life, and only after a multiple flush - I would suggest you stick with the fluid your car is currently running which is probably BMW coolant mixed 50/50. DO NOT MIX DIFFERENT TYPES OF COOLANTS!) 2008 Nissan Altima Coupe Toyota Matrix XR Pontiac Fiero IndyCar Edition My Old BMW Website Last edited by CanuckMark : at 08:29 AM.

16 , 08:54 PM #7 CanuckMark Altimoderator Now you can reinstall the fan and shroud in the reverse order. You don't need to get the mechanical fan fan too tight as it will "self tighten". Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Happyland ON Posts: 3,708 Conclusions: I highly recommend doing this if your car is 2000 or older, and it can't hurt if it is newer than that. My two cars are the same age with nearly the same mileage (140+k km), and the pumps were in very different conditions to each other. You DON'T want one of these coming apart on you - just ask Jersey and his car wasn't that old. Also don't reuse the belts, get new ones. They're freakin' cheap. Also if you haven't changed the coolant in a while, do a full change now. There is another DIY somewhere he on TE I think - you need to remove the block plug to get the other two-thirds of the coolant out then do a couple flushes. If anyone does do theirs and they have the mech fan, please by all means let me know and you can borrow the tool and the 32mm open end wrench to for that matter. I hope I don't need it for a while! As long as you return it, feel free. Costs: The water pump was from a jobber, around 85 to 100 bucks. Belts were around $25 for the short belt and $22 for the longer one. Time: I always go slow on these deals, and it took inside of two hours. Your mileage may vary. Mark 2008 Nissan Altima Coupe Toyota Matrix XR Pontiac Fiero IndyCar Edition My Old BMW Website Last edited by CanuckMark : at 09:35 AM , 09:06 PM #8 BabyBlack Senior Member This is such a great step by step DIY Mark, especially the diy tools Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: RichmondHill Ont. Posts: , 09:41 PM #9 Cabrio Tuning Emotion member Thanks for the detail writeup. It certain will come in handy when it's time to do mine. 19" Axis Supermesh, Hartge Front Spoiler, AC Schnitzer Rear Apron, LED Rear Lights retrofit, M3 Side Mirrors, M3 Trunk Lip Spoiler, Mrs. Chiu's Halos, Body Colour Front Bumper Reflectors, Clear front corner and side indicators + Solaris bulbs, M3 Front Strut Bar

Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: TO Posts: 1,634 10-22-2005, 10:56 PM #10 frw73 Go Ahead... Make My Day Great job Mark.

17 Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: TO Posts: 1, , 10:56 PM #10 frw73 Go Ahead... Make My Day Great job Mark. A picture IS worth a thousand words (or at least an MGD) Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Great White North Posts: 1,108 Go Ahead... ///Make My Day! Page 1 of > «Previous Thread Next Thread» Posting Rules You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts vb code is On Smilies are On [IMG] code is On HTML code is Off All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:47 AM. Powered by: vbulletin Version Copyright , Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. Copyright Tuning Emotion. Forum Policies Designed by:

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