9000 Clutch Replacement By Jack Ashcraft

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1 9000 Clutch Replacement By Jack Ashcraft The most usual reason for clutch (and associated parts) replacement in a Saab is clutch slippage. The clutches for the 9000 are very strong and usually will withstand the rigors of up to 225 hp for a lot of miles. If the car is used in hilly areas (San Francisco comes to mind) then clutch life will be dramatically reduced, simply because it gets much more abuse than it would in a car driven in an area where the terrain is mostly flat (Wichita, Kansas comes to mind). You should keep in mind that clutch slippage can also be caused by a fault in either the clutch slave - cylinder (binding) or clutch master cylinder (blockage due to foreign material in the brake fluid). Since it is a major job to replace the slave cylinder, we recommend that unless the car has a lot of miles or lives in 'Frisco, it's a good idea to rebuild or replace the clutch master cylinder first and flush the rest of the fluid out of the clutch system, then see if the clutch still slips. If not, you're home free. If so, then you will be forced to proceed with the following work. 24 The Saab Journal Pease note: Technical advice given in this column is based on the experience of the author@) and should be considered advice onl.~ The repairs suggested and the methods described, though they may have worked for the author(s). may or may not work for your car. Remember, we do not have your car in our shop for diagnosis! A number of things, including variations in models, equipment, accessories, wear patterns, modifications, unknown accident damage and associated worn or damaged parts could produce similar symptoms but require different types ot repair. The suggestions given are meant to enhance your general knowledge of your car and are not ottered in lieu of information given in Saab Service Manuals. Actual repair should be completed by trained technicians thoroughly familiar with your model of Saab.

2 Clutch Hydraulic FLUID RESERVOIR 3. Pull the air intake pipe for the air cleaner out of the inner fender wall. Remove the windshield washer reservoir from the car. Fig 3 4. Remove the positive (+) cable from the terminal block. Fig 4 5. Remove the fuel filter, the terminal block and the battery shelf. Fig 5 Removing all the parts to get to the transmission: 1. Jack up the front of the car and support it on heavy jack stands placed under the reinforced jacking areas just behind the front wheels. Set the emergency brake and place blocks ahead of and behind one of the rear wheels. 2. Disconnect the battery cables and remove the battery. Fig 2 6. Disconnect the electrical connector from the air mass meter and remove the air mass meter from the car. This is a spendy item so place it where it won't be damaged. Fig Volume 15 25

3 26 The Saab Journal

4 I ' 11. Remove the turbocharger delivery prpe. Put a clean rag into the intercooler radiator opening and one into the throttle body to keep foreign objects out. 12. Disconnect the battery ground cable and the back-up light connector from their locations on the gearbox. 13. Remove the clutch slave cylinder (very early 9000 only) and place it up on the intake manifold. On most 9000 models, disconnect the clutch hydraulic hose. There is a fitting in the hose just behind the transmission. Fig Remove the bolt that secures the left engine mount to the sub frame. It is located under the outer end of the gearbox. Fig 11.;- I 15. Fabricate an engine support tool. We suggest channel or box section steel for this job. This is the tool that we built. Fig 12 I I 1995 Volume 15 27

5 Removing the transm~ission from the car: 19. Disconnect the speedometer cable (early 9000). On later cars, remove the electronic speed sensor assembly from the gearbox. Fig 15 Note: On very early 9000 cars, the speedo cable removal must he done very carefully because the speedo drive unit can drop into the gearbox! From gearbox # on, the speedo drive unit was redesigned to avoid that problem. The electronic sensor was installed starting with 1987 models. 20. Separate the two halves of the selector rod joint and remove the rubber block from the joint. Inspect the block for damage from exposure to \ Continued on page The Saab Journal

6 9000 Clutch, Continued from page 28 corrosion or oil. If the rubber is soft or cracked, replace it. Fig Remove the rubber boot on the intermediate drive shaft (early cars). On 1987 and later cars, the boot only has to be gently pried free so that the intermediate shaft will come loose when the transmission is removed from the car. Fig Unbolt the steady bar connected from the intake manifold to the rear starter bolt. You only need to loosen the bolt at the intake manifold. Remove both starter bolts. The starter need not be removed from the car, as it will sit in place during this job. Fig Remove the ring of bolts around the bell housing, holding the transmission to the engine. Note: Leave one of the top bolts in place! Install two threaded dowel bolts. These are # The drawing shows how to make them from a metric bolt. Fig 19 - w INTERMEDIATE DRIVE SHAFT. Fig 17

7 Loosen the subframe pivot bolts. Fig 21 Remove the 4 securing bolts--two in front and two at the rear. Fig 22. Remove the front mount bolts for the sub-frame. Fig 23 Remove the rear mount bolts for the sub-frame and remove the bracket. Fig 24 Remove the bolt holding the lower attachment point for the wheel housing bracket. Fig 25 Remove the two bolts holding the left rear sway bar mount and the bolt holding the sway bar link. Now the subframe can droop down out of the way. Fig 26 Note: You have a choice now. You can leave the subframe hanging or simply remove the two pivot bolts and drop the subframe out of the car and out of the wav. We like the latter method because it lets i s put a floor jack under the transmission for removal/replacement. 31. Unscrew the boot clamp, pull back the inner driver boot. The Mac strut will pivot outward. Pull the drive axle free of the driver. Cover the ends of axle & driver to keep dirt out of the CV joint. Fig Ease the gearbox away trom the engine and ease it down on the jack and pull it out of the car. Removing the clutch and pressure plate: 33. Use a locking tool to prevent the flywheel from turning, and remove the bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel. Remove the. pressure plate and clutch disc from the engine. Inspect the flywheel for damage. Fig 28 Note: This is a very good time to remove the flywheel so the rear main bearing crankshaft seal can be replaced. Put a light coating of grease on the inner lip of the new seal and a light coat of engine oil on the outer surface of the seal. Press the seal into place evenly. Replace the flywheel and re-torque the flywheel bolts ( 44 Wlb). Fig 29 Fitting a new clutch and pressure plate: 34. Use Saab tool , an old gearbox input shaft from a 9000 or a universal clutch alignment tool and center the new clutch disc in the pressure plate. Tighten the pressure plate bolts evenly. Torque to 16 Wb. Fig 30 -,I 38 The Saab Journal

8 Changing the release bearing and slave cylinder: 35. You once again have a choice here. You must replace the release bearing. You may wish to replace the slave cylinder. We personally will not go to all the trouble it takes to get the transmission out of a 9000 without putting in a new slave cylinder and a new release bearing. This is not a fun job and the chances are good that if you do not put in all new parts, you will get to do the job twice! The decision is yours. Fig 31. To replace the slave cylinder, simply remove the. three bolts holding the slave cylinder to the bell housing (Torx bolts), unscrew the hydraulic input pipe (use a flare nut wrench so you don't round off the hex head fitting) and remove the cylinder. Install a new cylinder with new 0 rings and shaft seal into the bell housing and tighten the Torx bolts (6 ftflb) IN PLACE 36. Reconnect the hydraulic pipe and re-tighten securely with the flare nut wrench. Transfer the bleed pipe from the old slave cylinder to the new. Reinstalling the transmission: 37. Set the transmission on your floor jack and ease it back under the car and raise it up, taking care not to get it hung up on the left wheel suspension or other objects under the car. Be sure that the intermediate shaft is re-positioned and goes into place as the transaxle is mated to the engine. Fig Volume 15 39

9 Note: A very light coating of oil on the splines the same order as previously installed (54 Wlb). of the transmission clutch shaft will make See Fig 11. clutch action smoother and installation ( 53. Remove the engine support tool. easier. A54. On early cars, re-install the clutch slave cylinder and its hydraulic connection. On later cars, re- Install the kg of bolts around the bell housing. connect the hydraulic hose just behind the Remove the alignment dowel bolts and install the transmission. See Fig 10. last 2 bolts. Tighten evenly (48 Wlb). Take care 55. Re-connect the battery ground cable and the to see that nothing is binding and that the back up light connector to their respective transmission is not cocked one way and mating connections on the transmission. See Fig 10. to the engine unevenly. 56. Re-install the turbocharger delivery pipe and re- Re-install the left drive shaft inner joint into the tighten the securing clamps. See Fig 9a. inner driver. Check that there is adequate CV 57. Re-install the air cleaner box into the engine bay joint grease in the triple sockets of the inner and install and tighten the 4 securing bolts for the driver. Add grease if necessary. This need not be box. jammed full of grease, but the three sockets 58. Install a new air filter element and the air cleaner where the trichoid joint fits must have a good bit box top section. See Fig 9. of grease in them. See Fig Re-connect the Hall sensor cable to the Re-install the starter and the steady bar from the distributor. See Fig 8. rear starter bolt to the intake manifold. Tighten 60. Re-install the intake pipe to the air cleaner box. the bolts securely. See Fig 18. See Fig 7. Be sure the rubber boot on the intermediate drive d 61. Re-install the air mass meter into the car and shaft is in place. See Fig 17. connect the cable to the sensor. Treat the air Re-install the rubber block for the shifter mass meter with care. See Fig 6. selection rod. Tighten the bolts but don't overdo 462. Re-install the battery shelf, the terminal block and it--these are small bolts! See Fig 16. the fuel filter (a new one) and tighten the Re-install the speedometer cable or the securing clamp bolts. See Fig 5. electronic speed sensor unit onto the 63. Re-install the windshield washer tank and reconnect its electrical connectors. Re-install the air intake pipe for the air cleaner into the left inner fender wall. 64. Re-install the positive (+) battery cable onto the. terminal block. 65. Re-install the battery and re-connect the battery cables. 66. Check for any loose items that you didn't re connect. 67. Let the car down and tighten the lug bolts on the transmission. See Fig Replace the sub-frame assembly under the car. Install the front and rear pivot bolts but don't tighten them yet. See Fig 20. \5.. Place a jack under the outer (left) end of the subframe and gently lift it up into place. Install the securing bolt for the low attachment point for the - wheel house bracket and tighten. See Fig Re-install the three bolts that hold the lower A frame to the lower ball joint and tighten the nuts (1 6 Wlb). See Fig Re-install the nut holding <he outer sway bar link to the lower A frame (36 Wlb). Re-install the two bolts holding the inner sway bar clamp to the frame. Tighten the nuts to 16 Wlb. See Fig :48. Re-install the rear sub-frame bracket, re-install and tighten the bracket securing bolts (36 Wlb). \. See Fig 24. U9. ~e-install and tighten the front and rear sub-, frame mounting bolts (36 Wlb). See Figs 22 & 23. -\ 50. Tighten the subframe pivot bolts (36 Wlb). See Fig Re-install the inner fender liner and the left front wheel. Tighten fender liner bolts Re-install the bolt for th%left engine mount. Be sure any washers onihe mount are replaced in left front wheel. 68. Bleed the clutch system. See Fig Reprogram the radio. ' 40 The Saab Journal

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