Thank you for purchasing the Dezod Motorsports Return Fuel System for your Scion tc.

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Shannon York
5 years ago
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1 Thank you for purchasing the Dezod Motorsports Return Fuel System for your Scion tc. We took much pride in putting together a fuel system that would deliver a maximum amount of fuel as simply as possible with keeping value and ease of installation in mind. Enclosed in this installation manual you will find a comprehensive step by step set of instructions that shows you exactly what to do when performing an install with this kit. Ease of installation with minimal hassle was our goal when designing the system. We hope that this is helpful and that we have succeeded in helping you meet your fuel system needs. Included Parts: 1. Fuel rail and regulator assembly (shipped assembled), Modified Fuel Sending Unit, Aeromotive 100 Micron Fuel Filter, 152 Return line from regulator to tank, 72 Feed line from tank to filter, 65 feed line from filter to rail

2 2. Installation hardware: (1) 1.25 clamp for the fuel filter (4) ½ clamp for the fuel lines (3) self taping screws for mounting of the clamps (1) 6mm x 1.0 bolt for mounting of clamps under hood (4) 5/16 washers for use with the self taping screws and bolt.

4 Tools needed (approximately): I have made a list of what you need if you were to follow this exactly. 1. 3/8 drive ratchet 2. 12mm 3/8 drive deep well socket 3. 14mm 3/8 drive socket 4. 3/8 drive extension 5. 8mm ¼ socket 6. ¼ ratchet 7. ¼ drive extension 8. large flat blade screwdriver 9. 10mm combination wrench 10. 3/32 hex key 11. 3/8 combination wrench 12. 3/8 ¼ drive socket 13. ¼ drive drill adapter 14. small flat blade screwdriver 15. cut off wheel or dremel with cut off wheel attachment. 16. pliers of some sort (I used long needle nose for most) 17. tape 18. loc-tite thread adhesive an aluminum wrench or adjustable wrench 20. black sharpie 21. Drill, cordless makes life easier 22. Shop towels or rags. 23. Jack 24. Jack stands Pre-cautions: 1. You are dealing with gasoline and it is flammable as you know. Disconnect the battery before performing any service regarding fuel. 2. NO SMOKING during this procedure. 3. When removing fuel related components it is important to de-pressurize the fuel system before servicing. There is no fuel test port to depressurize with this setup, so the best way to do so is to disconnect the large connector that powers the fuel pump, and start the car and let it run until it stalls. Then crank the engine times to make sure all the pressure is released. 4. Even after fuel pressure is released there will still be residual fuel left in the lines due to their construction. Make sure to use rags to catch any fuel that is spilled and make sure to dispose of those rags in the proper manner as they can catch fire and cause damage/and or death.

5 5. You will be cutting the sending unit cover, use eye protection for any part of this procedure. 6. General common sense will aid you in the install of this product. 7. THE MOST HELPFUL HINT I CAN OFFER IS TO RUN THE TANK TO NEAR EMPTY BEFORE DOING THIS INSTALL. IT WILL MAKE YOUR LIFE MUCH EASIER. Procedure: 1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal. 2. Remove the back seat 3. Here you can see the fuel pump sending unit cover. 4. Use a large flat blade screwdriver to gently pry this cover up. It is held down with strip caulk so it will pull up

This is the only thing you need to modify when installing this fuel system.

8 5. Next disconnect the two connectors seen here. The large one is for the fuel pump and float. 6. Here you see the sending unit. Note that the sending unit hold down has already been modified. This is the only thing you need to modify when installing this fuel system. It takes about 5 minutes and if you put the car back to stock you can still reuse this so no fear there. The black line with the yellow clip attached to it is the stock fuel feed line.

9 7. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to remove the yellow clip holding the fuel line in place. At this time you should have already de-pressurized the fuel system.

10 8. Using a shop rag to cover the fuel line, gently pull up on the line and move it to the side. Use a shop rag to soak up any residual fuel and dispose of properly.

11 9. Using a ¼ ratchet, extension and 8mm socket remove the bolts retaining the sending unit hold down. When you remove the connector that is on the bracket there is one bolt underneath it that needs to be removed as well. a. Important: before removing the hold down use a rag or shop air to remove debris from this area to keep any from getting into the fuel tank.

13 10. Once the bolts are removed and the area has been cleaned remove the sending unit hold down.

14 11. Remove the sending unit, hold it in place and allow excess fuel to drain. The float has a tendency to get stuck on the way out make sure not to rip up on it. Hold a rag under the sending unit to keep fuel from getting on the interior upholstery.

15 12. Here is a shot of the stock sending unit next to the modified unit. We ship our sending unit with the float that came with it. At this time you may chose to use

16 yours or just install the unit with ours. That is up to you. Just know that we have provided one for you.

13. This is the sending unit hold down. We only had one, and we already modified it when we built the prototype for this fuel system. All you need to do is modify yours to match ours.

18 13. This is the sending unit hold down. We only had one, and we already modified it when we built the prototype for this fuel system. All you need to do is modify yours to match ours. You re going to remove what looks like a triangle shape out of the hold down. You will make two cuts. The short cut is 1.5 approximately and the long cut is approximately Test fit it on the sending unit to make sure it clears the nylon washers. Modify until it does. Spray it with a quick blast of black spray paint to prevent any rust from forming.

19 14. Install your new sending unit. We are using our prototype for mock up purposes. Make sure you install your rubber gasket from your stock sending unit. This is important and needs to be in there.

20 15. Note that the orientation on the production pieces will be different than this. However for this pictures purpose we show you the two dowels that stick up from the sending unit. These are still used to properly locate the sending unit and bolt it in its correct orientation.

21 16. Place the modified sending unit hold down in place on its dowels. Using your ¼ ratchet tighten the bolts down starting at the one that goes under the connector on the bracket. Tighten them down in a cris-cross manner. Do not over tighten the bolts as they will strip or snap. Torque spec is 53 in/lbs.

22 17. Here is the finished product for now. Next we move to under the hood.

23 18. Under the hood we first start by removing your stock air box or intercooler pipe depending if you are NA or Turbo. Once you have done this remove the wiring harness from the fuel rail hold down bolts.

24 19. Using a pair of pliers, squeeze the clamp on the PCV hose, disconnect it form the valve and move it aside.

25 20. Disconnect the electrical connectors from your fuel injectors.

Using a rag to catch the residual fuel, disconnect the fuel hose and

26 21. What you see here is a safety clamp for the fuel feed hose to the rail. Using a small flat blade screwdriver pry this off. 22. Using a rag to catch the residual fuel, disconnect the fuel hose and remove it. There is a yellow quick disconnect you need to push to dislodge the fuel line.

27 23. Use a 3/8 drive ratchet and a 12mm deep well socket and remove the two bolts holding the fuel rail in place.

28 24. Pull up on the fuel rail to dislodge the injectors from their lower seals. Caution these may come out with the injectors or they may just pop out and fall onto the intake manifold. Either way pay attention as you will need these when re-installing injectors. Also remove the stock fuel rail spacers. We have

29 supplied spacers to go with our fuel rail and these will take the place of the stock ones. When removing the rail it will come out with the pulse damper and fuel hose attached. Let the fuel drain and store it aside with your other removed stock parts for use if and when returning to stock.

30 25. Here is the new rail and regulator assembly. We assemble it so that the orientation is exactly how we intended it to be. Please do not alter this. The space is tight on this head and we have assembled this in house to assure that there is no physical interferences when installing this product. As you can see the delrin spacers are attached to this rail. We recommend installing them on the rail and then installing it in the head.

26. Take your injectors (850cc injector shown here, not included, sold separately) using a dab of clean engine oil on your finger lube the injector upper O-rings.

31 26. Take your injectors (850cc injector shown here, not included, sold separately) using a dab of clean engine oil on your finger lube the injector upper O-rings. Install the lubed injectors into the rail with a twisting motion. Doing this prevents tearing an O-ring. The injector bosses are radius to prevent this but better safe than sorry. ;)

Make sure that the injectors are started and use hand pressure to seat them in their lower seals. Let the regulator hang to one side and install both the bolts.

34 27. Don t forget to make sure that the lower injector seals are in the head. Put them in the head first before installing the injectors. Lubing the lower section of the injector can aid in installation but use a very small amount if you do. 28. Install the fuel rail as shown. Make sure that the injectors are started and use hand pressure to seat them in their lower seals. Let the regulator hang to one side and install both the bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15ft/lbs maximum. If you are not using a torque wrench then tighten to snug and a ¼ to ½ turn. The main thing here is that the injectors are retained, snug, the injectors can rotate slightly and the spacers aren t split in half :P

36 29. Install the regulator on the studs of the fuel rail bolts. Add a dab of loc-tite to the studs and install the 6mm x 1.0 nuts we supply.

38 30. Oh look, it s installed.

this next phase (if you have access to a lift that would make life

39 31. Re-install the PCV hose. 32. Jack the car up on 4 jack stands for the easiest method of doing this next phase (if you have access to a lift that would make life easier). Using a 14mm socket remove the spring bolts from the rear section of the exhaust. Let exhaust hang.

40 33. Using a 10mm socket remove the bolts holding the exhaust shield to the chassis. Remove the shield.

34. Using a 14mm remove this brace. It is located on the right side of the fuel tank. This supports the vapor canister and needs to be removed to facilitate lowering the fuel tank. 35.

41 34. Using a 14mm remove this brace. It is located on the right side of the fuel tank. This supports the vapor canister and needs to be removed to facilitate lowering the fuel tank. 35. Using a small flat blade screwdriver un-clip the fuel feed hose from the tank to the main fuel line. Disconnect the line and use a rag to soak up residual fuel. Disconnect the line from its plastic guide on the fuel tank. (Let hang for the time being.)

42 36. These are the bolts to the fuel tank straps. Use a 14mm socket to remove them. If the tank is near empty like recommended in the precautions section of this manual

43 then the tank will not be a problem. Remove the bolts, lower the straps and let them hang slightly on the emergency brake cables. This will support the tank and will allow you to reach up to remove the stock fuel feed hose. Save this hose with the rest of your OEM parts for use later if you want to convert back to stock.

46 37. Pry down the plastic retainers that support the fuel and brake lines from the underside of the floor boards. I like to take advantage of what the factory has supplied as much as possible when it comes to routing hoses. So we are going to use the factory retainers to hold our return line for us. Move the factory feed line one space the right in the retainers. This will allow for a spare spot that we will run our return line.

47 38. Tape up the ends of the lines to prevent debris from getting inside when routing them through tight areas.

48 39. Route the return line through this area in the tank. Use this area and this area only. The body is very tight to the tank and if you use a different route you run the risk of pinching a fuel line. This is the area where the stock fuel feed hose routed.

49 40. Remove the tape from your hose; install it on the return side fitting. The return side fitting is the one that is closest to the passenger side.

50 41. Route your return hose following the path that the stock fuel feed hose took. Push the hose into the clip where the stock fuel feed hose resided. Swoop it down near

51 the floor following the route of the factory line and install it in the space we made by moving the lines over in the fuel line retainers. You want the most slack back here near the fuel tank. Remember: Nice smooth radius bends.

52 42. Route the fuel hose through the retainers and push it into each retainer. Push the retainers back up onto the underside of the floor boards. With tape on the end of

the hose route the other end of the return line up through the front subframe following the stock lines. You will run your line under the stock lines. 43.

53 the hose route the other end of the return line up through the front subframe following the stock lines. You will run your line under the stock lines. 43. Route your return fuel line close to the drivers side of the engine bay. Install the line on the regulator outlet and tighten using a -6an wrench or adjustable wrench.

55 44. At the back of the car again. Tape the ends of the line that is going to go from the tank to the filter. Route the line up to the sending unit following the return line and the factory routing. You can use zip ties if you want to try to keep them together. I did not find it necessary.

45. Remove the tape, connect your line to the sending unit feed port. The feed port is the one closest to the drivers side. Here you se the orientation is different than in the earlier pictures.

56 45. Remove the tape, connect your line to the sending unit feed port. The feed port is the one closest to the drivers side. Here you se the orientation is different than in the earlier pictures. We decided to change this because of the line we were using. The black racing hose lines are lighter than stainless braided (there is a stainless inner braid), however it does not like to hold a curve as much due to it being more flexible. So we pointed the feed port to allow for a more direct routing. Note: The lines still follow the factory path.

57 46. Route your feed line closely following the return line. It fits snug up on top of the retainers and is held in place by the bulk of the retainer until you get to the filter where you will be installing clamps.

47. Here we have the filter we are using. Install the clamp on it, remove the tape from the ends of the fittings and loosely install the line on the fitting.

59 47. Here we have the filter we are using. Install the clamp on it, remove the tape from the ends of the fittings and loosely install the line on the fitting. Hold the filter up and mark where you want the hole to be when you mount the filter. Use the self taping screw to drill and tap a hole. Do the same for the lines before the filter. You will install two clamps pre filter. You will not be installing any clamps after the filter under the car as it is not necessary. The next clamps will be under hood. Install the filter in place. The filter has an arrow on it labeling the direction of flow. (take note to that direction and install it the proper way)

63 48. Route the hose from the filter to the rail up through the front sub frame following the return line we previously routed.

65 49. Remove the tape and connect the line to the filter. Tighten both fittings on the filter using a -6an wrench or adjustable wrench.

66 50. Use a 10mm socket and extension to remove the 6mm x 1.0 bolt from the shock tower. Use the clamps supplied and arrange them on the lines as shown. Interlocking both clamps so that the clamp haves layer on each other. Install the 6mmx 1.0 bolt and 5/16 washer we supplied in the kit to bolt these to the shock tower.

70 51. Remove the tape from the fitting and connect the line to the feed port on the rail. Tighten using a -6an wrench or adjustable wrench.

72 52. Connect a manifold vacuum source to the regulator, and use a zip tie to secure the line. Set your fuel pressure by adjusting the center bolt on the regulator with a 3/32 hex key. Once the desired fuel pressure is set lock down the nut using a 3/8 combination wrench.

73 53. Connect the connectors for the sending unit and the emissions sensors.

74 54. Prime the fuel system and check for leaks. If no leaks are found press the cover down and reinstall your back seat. Start the engine and set the fuel pressure to 43.5 psi. This is the standard pressure that all fuel injectors are tested to. This is

75 the base fuel pressure you will be running. Adjust to your specific needs accordingly if you desire a higher or lower base. Important note! The float is a card resistor which is very sensitive so the ECU buffers the signal to keep the gauge from bouncing around. What does this mean? It means that when you first start the car it will take a minute or two for the level on the gauge to return to normal so don t panic. If it does not come back after 15 minutes then the float is faulty and you should install yours from your stock sending unit. 55. Once you have the car started, fuel pressure dialed in and you are certain there are no leaks go ahead and reinstall the gas tank straps, bracket that supports the vapor canister, exhaust shield and exhaust section. Congratulations on completing your fuel system install we hope it was a simple endeavor. Drive safely.

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