Water Pump Replacement
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- Jade Thomas
- 5 years ago
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1 Water Pump Replacement Last piece of maintenance for the 70K miles anniversary of my S, was the replacement of the thermostat and water pump. Although the water pump did not show any sign of fatigue and never leaked, I was not feeling too comfortable with a pump having spun millions of times for almost 10 years. I was also planning to replace the engine mounts with some Rennline semi-solid units and both jobs could actually be combined very easily. When replacing the water pump, a significant portion of the coolant is going to be drained and it may be a good idea to replace it partially. Porsche pretends that their coolant will last forever, but we know that in this 3D world, nothing is eternal. Also, since most of the work is to gain access to the pump, it may be a good idea to think about the thermostat. The thermostat is a very inexpensive part and its failure would mean that you have to do most of the preliminary work again. Finally, rubber hoses, although made from natural rubber, do not have an eternal life and their replacement may be indicated for at least the hoses in direct contact with the engine and submitted to inside and outside high temperatures. The picture below shows all the parts that makes sense to be replaced when approaching a water pump replacement. With the above in mind, I procured the following parts from my favorite local Porsche dealer as he treated me again with a very nice discount:
2 You can see from the top left and going clockwise, the special hose assembly (it comes as a single part), the thermostat in its housing, the water pump with its plastic impeller, the big rubber hose leading to the front radiators, an O-ring, a few sets of bolts for the pump and thermostat housing, the thermostat gasket, a couple of clamps and the master gasket for the pump in the center. The thermostat offered by Porsche is the regular temperature one, opening at 180 degrees plus, if I am not mistaken. There is a low temperature version but it is not sold by Porsche and is available at Pelican Parts. You will need a special tool to remove the original/high-temp thermostat from its housing and replace it with the low-temp version, if you decide to go that route. I did not and kept everything as genuine as possible. What you see on the picture cost me about $500 including taxes. The most expensive being the pump, followed by that strange hose sculpture on the top left. All the other parts are very affordable, including the thermostat. Since you will be going back and forth between the top of the engine bay and underneath the chassis, it may be a good idea to have access to a ladder if you decide to place the car on a lift. I used a lift and tried to have as much work done on the top before lifting the car. 1) Remove the air filter box: Seriously, if you do not know how to do that, there is no need for you to continue reading or even pretending to replace the water pump by yourself. There are plenty of articles explaining how to do that easy task.. 2) Remove the Serpentine Belt: Again, many articles explain in great detail how to do that. For reference, you can use my Web site: 3) Drain coolant: Porsche Coolant is very expensive ($50 a gallon) and since it is given for the life of the car, you may want to recuperate some of it and mix it with fresh one. For that reason, you will need a large Home Depot bucket and make sure that this bucket is perfectly clean and dry. The bucket will be brought close to the drain under the engine.
3 Open cap on expansion tank -1- and remove. Set steel chamber for bleeder valve to vertical -2-. Go under the car and undo the internal hexagon socket drain screw from the coolant inlet pipe.
4 Finally, open the spring clamp on hose at inlet side of the water pump, remove the hose and drain the left over coolant. At this point, not much coolant will come out of the system and you should store the bucket safely away from the car. You know that you will need at least the same amount of coolant plus some fresh one to refill the system. Examine the coolant and make sure that there is no debris or foreign matter in suspension. Make sure it is clean. 4) Remove Catalytic Converters: The next phase is the removal of the catalytic converters (yes both of them) from under the car, to gain access to the engine carrier. To be completely honest, this is by far the most delicate operation of the whole process and the most tedious. There is a reason for that and I will explain it: - First, spray generously the three bolts on each converter with Pb-Blaster and the sleeves bolts connecting the muffler to the Converters. Wait a few minutes for the chemical to penetrate the rust. - Using a 13mm socket, start very gently and cautiously to unlock the bolts between the manifold and the converters. This is where the issue begins: these bolts are soldered with one touch of electric welding to the converter s flange. The soldering only asks to break loose. Once it does, it is impossible to unscrew the nuts on the opposite side as nuts and bolts will rotate freely. Out of 6 bolts, three broke, fortunately at the bottom, leaving me with a small access to grind the bolts and nuts. You can try re-welding these bolts to the Converter s flanges but I did not have access to an electrical welding station. It is a nightmare to grind these bolts away and my recommendation is the following one: use lots of Pb-Blaster. Wait. Go very gently on the nut, not doing any brisk movement. Pray a lot. I ended up replacing all these so called welded bolts by stainless steel bolts and nuts of 8 mm (13 mm socket). It will be so much easier to take apart next time. This was the task that took me the longest time and it is a royal pain in the arse, to be polite. - Carefully remove the oxygen sensors from the converters, after disconnecting them from the rear of the car. Take pictures or make a mental note of how each oxygen sensor wire is routed. It is an art in itself. - Once all the bolts and sleeves have been removed from the converters, remove the right converter first and then the left converter. It is tight but you can manage to pull them out from underneath without touching the rear bumper.
5 5) Support Engine: The next step is to support the engine in preparation for the removal of the engine carrier. Using a jack (if you work on jack-stands) or a transmission jack (if you work on a lift), place a piece of wood between the jack and the rear part of the engine. Do not use the oil pan to support the engine. Once the car and the engine are secure, you can now proceed with the removal of the engine carrier. Some people claim they can change the water pump without removing the carrier but I like to disagree with this approach. Removing the carrier makes for such a beautiful and open access to the pump, thermostat and hoses that it would be a shame to procrastinate and do otherwise. The picture shows the car without the engine carrier. I am always amazed at how corroded this engine is from underneath. I bought that car in Atlanta and it was coming from Alabama, before that. I live in North Carolina and we have to salt roads every winter. Although I do not drive the car when the roads are salted, the amount of corrosion found underneath is incredible. Nothing can be done to remedy this situation besides bead blasting every cranny and pieces of the engine. We ll keep this task for another life time.
6 To remove the engine carrier, proceed in the following way: - Unscrew four M10 collar nuts -1- and one M6 Torx screw Unscrew the two M12 collar nuts on engine mounting (hydraulic mounts). Use an 18 mm deep socket. - From the top of the engine bay, loosen with a 13mm socket, the two bolts holding the engine mounts. You do not have to remove them completely; just make sure they have some play so that the carrier can be removed easily. - Carefully move engine carrier out of threaded bolts, by bending them to the rear. - Carefully clean engine carrier using solvent naphtha and check for damage (e.g. cracks). You now have a good access to all the components that need to be replaced.
7 6) Removal of the water pump: - Unscrew seven fastening screws (two M6 x 30-2-, five M6 x ). - Remove pump and inspect it. The blades should not be damaged. Check the rotation. My pump was perfect inside and had only a slight wobble when turning. It was not bad for a 70K miles engine. I suppose it all depends how often you rev your engine and for how long. - Cut through seal webs -arrows- in the combination seal, and remove the old seal from the crankcase.
8 - Carefully clean the surfaces/periphery of the pump with emery and Naphta. Clean all the ingress and egress openings. Take your time and do a great job at cleaning these surfaces. This will guarantee the absence of leaks when you re-install the new steel gasket. The gasket will be mounted dry.
9 7) Removing coolant regulator (or Thermostat) Before re-installing the new pump, we might as well remove the thermostat. - You will need to disconnect the crankcase line, and the large rubber hose between the thermostat and the upper part of the engine compartment. - Remove the two M6 fastening screws holding the coolant line to the Crankcase Remove the four bolts holding the thermostat housing to the crankcase. One of the bolts is not so easy to get to, but with a couple of universal joints adapter, you can do it without much headaches. - Remove housing, take out thermostat. Collect the emerging coolant that may come out from the housing. - As you did for the pump, carefully clean-up the joint surfaces of the thermostat housing.
10 8) Replace Coolant Line Once the thermostat has been removed, you can now replace the large rubber hose connecting the Thermostat output to the front radiators. Go back in the engine bay and disconnect the large hose, by pulling on the wire clip. Once the large clip has been removed, you can wiggle out the old rubber hose and replace it with the new one. Make sure that the new hose has a rubber ring and insert it into the quick connection. Re-insert the wire clip and make sure that this assembly is tight and secure. You can pull slightly on it, wiggle it and just make sure that it does not come off. Leave the other end of the hose unconnected for the moment. 8) Install Thermostat - After cleaning up the joint surfaces, install the new thermostat with a new gasket. Gasket is mounted dry. - Torque all four bolts at 7.5 ft or 10 Nm. The picture below shows where you stand: - You can see the large rubber hose hanging from the engine bay as it will be connected to the thermostat egress port. - Re-install the bolts of the coolant line on the side of the crankcase.
11 - Re-connect the large hose re-using or changing the clamp. There are white marks on the hose that should align with the thermostat housing. 9) Install Water Pump Now is the time to re-install the new water pump. - First, you must cut the new gasket as indicated below: - Install the new gasket on a clean surface. Mount it dry. - Position coolant pump with new seal on crankcase using two screws, note position of dowel sleeves.
12 - Position remaining screws. The longer screws (M6 x 30) -2- are installed at the dowel sleeve position. - Tighten all screws equally in diagonally opposite sequence. Tightening torque: 10 (7.5 ftlb.) Nm - Connect the rubber hose to the ingress port of the pump. Use a new clamp or re-use the old clamp if it is in good condition. Pay attention to the white markings on the hose and pump body: they must match. - Re-connect the engine cooling line along the crankcase with the convoluted rubber hose assembly. Pay attention to the position of the clamps. Make sure everything is water tight and well coupled. Clamps must be set right behind the shoulder of the metal outlets, to be effective. 10) Installing engine carrier - The installation of the engine carrier is a little bit delicate and this is how I proceeded. - Bring close the carrier. Insert it into the two engine mount bolts hanging from the engine bay (top left on the picture). Make sure that the square nut do align with the square opening on the carrier. To do this, you will need to bend the engine mount. They can take some abuse and they have some play as they are not tight to the frame. - Screw in the two M12 collar nuts, but do not torque. - Insert engine carrier in threaded bolts of the engine. Screw on four M10 collar nuts and one M6 Torx screw.
13 - Tighten the four M10 collar nuts Tightening torque: 65 (48 ftlb.) Nm and the M6 Torx screw Tightening torque: 10 (7.5 ftlb.) Nm - Tighten M12 collar nuts on left and right engine mountings. Tightening torque: 85 (63 ftlb.) Nm. - Check everything. Make sure all is tight. - Remove the transmission jack or engine support. Nothing should fall down At this stage you have two choices: 1) Put everything back together and refill the coolant or 2) Refill first, check for leaks and then re-install the converters. I prefer the second solution. 11) Filling with coolant Refiling is actually quite easy if you have the proper tool: the AIRLIFT I procured mine from Amazon and paid about $130 for it. It comes in a nice plastic case with a lot of various adapters to fit on any coolant expansion tank on any car. You will also need an air compressor to create the vacuum, but most shops have one. Use one of the adaptors to fit on top of the coolant expansion tank, and install the gauge to create the vacuum. Read carefully the instructions provided with the Airlift as they explain how to operate the device. - Create vacuum by using compressed air. The gauge will slowly raise to the right, indicating that vacuum is slowly built up throughout the system. Go to about PSI of Vacuum as indicated in the documentation. - Disconnect the pressured air and let the system sit for a minute or two, making sure that the vacuum pressure does not drop. In my case, the cooling system kept the vacuum for two minutes, without a single variation of the pressure. This is a good indication that there are no leak with negative pressure. Now, the system can always leak when the pressure is built up from inside (boiling coolant). You will see some of the hoses collapse on themselves.
14 - Using the provided feed hose, drop it into your large bucket containing some of the old coolant plus new mixture (50% coolant + 50% distilled water) to refresh it, or from your bucket filled with brand new mixture. - Connect the other end of the feeding hose to the pressure gauge. - Open the valve slowly and watch with amazement the system suck the coolant mixture from the bucket. - Do not rush the process and let is suck at moderate pace. You will watch the gauge that will slowly return to atmospheric pressure, while the bucket empties itself. - When the pressure is back to zero (atmospheric pressure), you can disconnect the system and remove it from the coolant expansion tank. In my case, the tank was filled to the normal level and I only had to add a minute amount to bring it to the MAX level. - Screw the cap on the expansion tank. We are done with this part. - Go under the car and verify that no liquid drips from the pump, thermostat and hoses that you replaced. 12) Re-install the Converters When satisfied by the absence of leak, re-install the catalytic converters starting with the left one. Assemble the oxygen sensors and dress the wires accordingly, back to their connectors. Do the same for the right converter.
15 13) Install Serpentine Belt and Airbox - Install the Serpentine belt and airbox: - Do a final verification to make sure everything is in order. 14) Crank up the engine - Crank up the engine and monitor carefully the temperature gauge on the dashboard. - Raise cabin temperature to maximum and set fan to high speed. If the cabin gets warm, it is a good indication that your vacuum was correctly filled by new coolant liquid and that the system works well. - From under the car, verify that there are no leaks. - Let the car idle for a little while, monitoring leaks, temperature gauge and the engine bay. When coolant splashes all over, it leaves white streaks which are very easy to recognize and trace. - For the next few days, you will want to monitor the cold level of the coolant inside the expansion tank. - Do not open the tank when hot
16 15) Tricks Because I replaced that special plastic hose (see picture below), and did not change the rubber hoses on the left, I ended up with a small leak on the larger of the two pipes, right at the connection. I attribute this to the age of the rubber hose, the fatigue of the original clamp and a less than tight fit, after so many years. Thus, I replaced the original clamp with an adjustable and screw based clamp that allows for a much tighter seal. I did not have any other leaks, after this small modification.
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